I have seen these but never gave them a thought. Do they have any automotive 
uses also?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 28, 2017, at 11:46 PM, G Mann via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Kaleb,
> That is the saw I had in mind.. I bought one, liked it so much, I bought a
> second one. If you use just a bit of inventiveness you'll find ways to cut
> things you never thought possible..
> 
> BTW.. Home Depot also sells a saw like it.. for lots more money.. however
> the blades will work on the Harbor Fright saw, and they are better
> quality.. worth the few bucks.
> 
> On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 5:44 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>> Is this the sort of saw you are talking about?
>> 
>> 
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools/v
>> ariable-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-63111.html
>> 
>> 
>>> On 1/28/2017 2:54 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>>> 
>>> This is the best idea I have heard so far. Can you share a link to this
>>> HF saw you are talking about?
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> On Jan 28, 2017, at 2:24 PM, G Mann via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> I would look at doing the whole job from the top side, instead of trying
>>>> to
>>>> lay on my back under the house, since the tile underlay boards have
>>>> failed
>>>> also.
>>>> 
>>>> Harbor Freight sells a nice [cheap is nice when it works] flush cut
>>>> vibrating saw with all kinds of different blades. I would use one of
>>>> those
>>>> with the grout cut blade to section the tile back far enough to gain
>>>> access
>>>> to the underlay board. This could be done in such a way to preserve the
>>>> tile and reuse it. There is a blade that will go under the tile and
>>>> vibrate/cut the grout, thus releasing a row.
>>>> 
>>>> From that space, use the flush cut blade [you'll see what they are when
>>>> you
>>>> see them] to cut the underlay board out [in pieces if need be] which will
>>>> then give you access to the floor joists.  The flush cut blade will allow
>>>> you to cut right up to the drywall of the sidewall, without damaging the
>>>> drywall.. I've done this using a 6 inch drywall knife behind the flush
>>>> cut
>>>> blade to keep it off the drywall surface. A piece of flat sheet metal
>>>> would
>>>> do the same. The drywall knife just has a handy handle to move it along
>>>> with the saw.
>>>> 
>>>> With a working opening, from the top side, sectioning out the damaged
>>>> joist, and sistering in fresh wood with screwed and glued plates would be
>>>> "easy peasy"...
>>>> 
>>>> Cut a new piece of underlay board to fit the surgery hole.. screw it to
>>>> the
>>>> "now fresh joists" and relay the tile you just salvaged... even the
>>>> broken
>>>> tile would re-lay with solid floor under it.. there might be a hairline
>>>> crack, but I would Gorillia glue the pieces together, and lay it.. match
>>>> the grout..done and dusted..
>>>> 
>>>> Saws are on sale often at Harbor Freight.. $40 or less..
>>>> 
>>>> On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 12:57 PM, Craig via Mercedes <
>>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> On Sat, 28 Jan 2017 14:17:10 -0500 (EST) Mitch Haley via Mercedes
>>>>> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> On January 27, 2017 at 6:27 PM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
>>>>>>> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> The joists themselves are fine except on the very end.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Then I'd cut out all the rot, leaving only 100% solid wood, and run TWO
>>>>>> replacement joists, one nailed and glued on each side of the rotted
>>>>>> ones, with 2' of overlap, so it goes from solid original joist, to
>>>>>> triple joist, to double joist at the end. If it's only rotted for a few
>>>>>> feet at the end, materials for the double reinforcement shouldn't cost
>>>>>> much.
>>>>>> 
>>>>> An excellent idea!
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Craig
>>>>> 
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