I note that a decision has been made to get a replacement but I will
comment on this anyway.
I had the master give up on my 115 300D. I was able to get a rebuild kit
but unable to put it together to my satisfaction and ended up getting a
replacement anyway.
Not sure how this will relate to newer Mercedes, but for my vintage, it
appears that the original rebuild kits came with a thin sleeve that one
put the parts into and then slid into the bore and then removed. I did
not get the sleeve with my kit and was unable to come up with anything
that would permit me to slide the new parts in without risking damage to
the new seals. I looked around for thin tubing and made an attempt with
a wrapped piece of thin plastic but to no avail. I could have pushed
them in without the sleeve and waited to see if they had managed to slip
in without damage but was reluctant to re-assemble and find out that I
still had brake problems, so I did not do that. I gave in and ordered
the whole thing which is what I should have done at the outset. The car
was out of service for a month while I horsed around with this issue.
RB
On 21/10/2018 2:15 PM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes wrote:
So I have pressure bled the 124 wagon brakes about three times now and no
air comes out any more. I drained at least a pint each caliper this time.
No leaks from any of the calipers when pumping pedal with nipples tight.
This is a non-asr car.
Pedal will pump up but then goes to the floor with sustained pressure. If
you pump it up then let up for a few seconds and push again it goes way
down before any resistance. Probably not going to stop the car at the foot
of my driveway.
My thought is to replace or rebuild the master cylinder, because maybe the
pedal was pushed too far down while bleeding.
Is the collective wisdom to use ATE only, or is meyle just as good (or
others)? And has anyone just rebuilt the original cylinder with new seals?
Thanks
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