If you replaced the brakes make sure the pads are in place correctly. I worked at a shop once where mechanic put pads on wrong (pads not in the guides) on a Toyota. The results were that when you pressed break peddle it would bend the brake pad which acted like a spring, when you released the break peddle it would push calipers back in. The brakes felt like they needed bleed and would "pump up". They replaced master cylinder twice before they got me to look at it. I asked: "Did it stop before you did the brake job?" "Yes" "Then let's check that you did the brake job correctly..."
On Mon, Oct 22, 2018 at 12:46 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes < mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > I note that a decision has been made to get a replacement but I will > comment on this anyway. > I had the master give up on my 115 300D. I was able to get a rebuild kit > but unable to put it together to my satisfaction and ended up getting a > replacement anyway. > Not sure how this will relate to newer Mercedes, but for my vintage, it > appears that the original rebuild kits came with a thin sleeve that one > put the parts into and then slid into the bore and then removed. I did > not get the sleeve with my kit and was unable to come up with anything > that would permit me to slide the new parts in without risking damage to > the new seals. I looked around for thin tubing and made an attempt with > a wrapped piece of thin plastic but to no avail. I could have pushed > them in without the sleeve and waited to see if they had managed to slip > in without damage but was reluctant to re-assemble and find out that I > still had brake problems, so I did not do that. I gave in and ordered > the whole thing which is what I should have done at the outset. The car > was out of service for a month while I horsed around with this issue. > > RB > > On 21/10/2018 2:15 PM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes wrote: > > So I have pressure bled the 124 wagon brakes about three times now and no > > air comes out any more. I drained at least a pint each caliper this time. > > No leaks from any of the calipers when pumping pedal with nipples tight. > > > > This is a non-asr car. > > > > Pedal will pump up but then goes to the floor with sustained pressure. If > > you pump it up then let up for a few seconds and push again it goes way > > down before any resistance. Probably not going to stop the car at the > foot > > of my driveway. > > > > My thought is to replace or rebuild the master cylinder, because maybe > the > > pedal was pushed too far down while bleeding. > > > > Is the collective wisdom to use ATE only, or is meyle just as good (or > > others)? And has anyone just rebuilt the original cylinder with new > seals? > > > > Thanks > > > > > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
