Interesting. Seems unlikely that the pads are in wrong, but never say
never. I changed all the calipers, so this isnt just a brake job.

I found this european cert thing in an email from autohaus (finally got the
500e master cyl today btw). Anyway it may interest the list:


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[image: Brake Safety- ECE R90]

Brake Safety- ECE R90

Safety has always been at the forefront of European vehicle design. When
you hear the word “safety”, one tends to think of the passive safety
features such as seatbelts or airbags, or the newer active safety features
such as lane-departure warning and traction or stability control. But hands
down the most important safety system on a car is the braking system. The
disc brake system on a modern car relies on a complex system of hydraulics,
electrics, electronics, and of course human input to safely bring a vehicle
to a stop every time. But the most fundamental pieces of the braking system
are the mechanical bits that do the actual stopping, the brake pads and
rotors. These components convert the kinetic energy of a vehicle in motion
into heat energy, using nothing more than simple friction.

Brake pads and rotors are of course a wear item on any vehicle. Depending
on driving style and other factors, these components may have a longer or
shorter lifespan, but on any car they will eventually need to be replaced.
When shopping for brake pads and rotors for your vehicle you will find a
confusing array of parts to choose from. There are different compounds of
pads from semi-metallic to organic to ceramic. Rotors can be high-carbon,
coated, drilled or slotted. How is a consumer to know what the best choice
for their vehicle is?

Regardless of what pad compound or type of rotor you choose, a good place
to start when shopping for brakes on a European vehicle is to choose a
manufacturer that offers pads and rotors that are certified to meet ECE R90
regulations.What is ECE R90? The Economic Commission for Europe, or ECE, is
a body that regulates certain aspects of vehicle design throughout Europe
and has been adopted in many other regions around the world. Regulation 90,
or R90 as it is commonly known, specifies that a certified pad or rotor
must pass several rigorous tests to verify both the braking performance and
physical characters of the part do not widely deviate from the OEM parts
that originally came with the vehicle. The standard was developed in
response to the rise of low-cost or counterfeit aftermarket brake pads and
rotors that did not always perform properly. This of course is a major
safety hazard to all drivers on the road and the ECE decided to implement
this strict set of rules for replacement brake pads and rotors beginning in
November of 2016. While in the US it is not a requirement for vehicles to
be fitted with replacement parts that meet the ECE R90 spec, it is highly
advised.

How do you tell if a part is certified as meeting ECE R90? All parts will
be physically marked with a code that looks like this: [image: Winterizing
Your Vehicle], followed by a unique set of approval numbers. This mark
ensures that you are installing a part that meets or exceeds the
requirements the OEM originally specified during development of the
vehicle. To reduce the likelihood of counterfeit products entering the
market falsely claiming to meet R90, packaging will typically be sealed by
the manufacturer and many times also includes holograms or other security
features that are difficult to duplicate. This is an additional layer of
security that ensures the consumer is purchasing a safe, quality product.

A leading US automotive publication was recently conducting a performance
test of several vehicles. One vehicle, outfitted with brakes for the US
market, exhibited very poor stopping performance while on track and was
pulled from the test. The manufacturer subsequently supplied a vehicle with
replacement pads from the European model, which would be certified as
meeting ECE R90. Further testing on the track showed much improved braking
performance, simply by changing to a better-quality pad. Many US consumers
are concerned about reducing brake dust and/or noise, but ask yourself this
question: when the safety of you and your family is on the line does it
matter if your wheels are slightly dirtier or you hear a squeak from time
to time? Wheels can be cleaned, but lives cannot be replaced.

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On Tue, Oct 23, 2018, 12:24 PM Trampas Stern via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> If you replaced the brakes make sure the pads are in place correctly.  I
> worked at a shop once where mechanic put pads on wrong (pads not in the
> guides) on a Toyota.  The results were that when you pressed break peddle
> it would bend the brake pad which acted like a spring, when you released
> the break peddle it would push calipers back in.  The brakes felt like they
> needed bleed and would "pump up".  They replaced master cylinder twice
> before they got me to look at it.
> I asked:
> "Did it stop before you did the brake job?"
> "Yes"
> "Then let's check that you did the brake job correctly..."
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 22, 2018 at 12:46 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > I note that a decision has been made to get a replacement but I will
> > comment on this anyway.
> > I had the master give up on my 115 300D. I was able to get a rebuild kit
> > but unable to put it together to my satisfaction and ended up getting a
> > replacement anyway.
> > Not sure how this will relate to newer Mercedes, but for my vintage,  it
> > appears that the original rebuild kits came with a thin sleeve that one
> > put the parts into and then slid into the bore and then removed. I did
> > not get the sleeve with my kit and was unable to come up with anything
> > that would permit me to slide the new parts in without risking damage to
> > the new seals. I looked around for thin tubing and made an attempt with
> > a wrapped piece of thin plastic but to no avail. I could have pushed
> > them in without the sleeve and waited to see if they had managed to slip
> > in without damage but was reluctant to re-assemble and find out that I
> > still had brake problems, so I did not do that. I gave in and ordered
> > the whole thing which is what I should have done at the outset. The car
> > was out of service for a month while I horsed around with this issue.
> >
> > RB
> >
> > On 21/10/2018 2:15 PM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes wrote:
> > > So I have pressure bled the 124 wagon brakes about three times now and
> no
> > > air comes out any more. I drained at least a pint each caliper this
> time.
> > > No leaks from any of the calipers when pumping pedal with nipples
> tight.
> > >
> > > This is a non-asr car.
> > >
> > > Pedal will pump up but then goes to the floor with sustained pressure.
> If
> > > you pump it up then let up for a few seconds and push again it goes
> way
> > > down before any resistance. Probably not going to stop the car at the
> > foot
> > > of my driveway.
> > >
> > > My thought is to replace or rebuild the master cylinder, because maybe
> > the
> > > pedal was pushed too far down while bleeding.
> > >
> > > Is the collective wisdom to use ATE only, or is meyle just as good (or
> > > others)? And has anyone just rebuilt the original cylinder with new
> > seals?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________
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> >
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> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> >
> >
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