My idea for the fix is to use wire that has very fine copper strands and silicon insulation, so they are very flexible. Cut out the old harness for about a six to eight inch section that bridges the accordion hinge, and crimp in the new wires, so that one set of crimps is inside the body and the other set is fully in the door.
Friend has a pretty new VW Jetta, probably about ten years old or so, and it had a similar problem with electric windows. Suspecting the wires in the accordion joint, I opened up the driver's door and found the problem there. What impressed me was that there was a socket in the body, and the door wiring harness plugged into that socket. Pull out the connector, remove the door panel, and it was easy to see that one could replace the door harness as a unit, including the part that flexes and fails. I'm pretty sure he bought a replacement from the dealer. ------------- Max Charleston SC On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 7:15 PM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes < mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > So I had the opportunity to delve into this problem again on my brother’s > 1989 300TE- rear left window going down spontaneously. As many of you > suspected the problem does indeed lie in the wiring harness between the b > pillar and rear door. One wire is sheared in half while others have cracked > and missing insulation. How do I fix this? Is there a replacement window > harness available? I can’t see crimping the wires together working in this > location as the flexing from door opening and closing will cause the repair > to fail in short order. > > > _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com