Find older car, like W123.  Harvest hinge wiring.  Splice in so that survivor 
wire takes the mechanical stress.  I like solder and tape, not crimp.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 24, 2021, at 5:00 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
> My idea for the fix is to use wire that has very fine copper strands and
> silicon insulation, so they are very flexible.  Cut out the old harness for
> about a six to eight inch section that bridges the accordion hinge, and
> crimp in the new wires, so that one set of crimps is inside the body and
> the other set is fully in the door.
> 
> Friend has a pretty new VW Jetta, probably about ten years old or so, and
> it had a similar problem with electric windows.  Suspecting the wires in
> the accordion joint, I opened up the driver's door and found the problem
> there.  What impressed me was that there was a socket in the body, and the
> door wiring harness plugged into that socket.  Pull out the connector,
> remove the door panel, and it was easy to see that one could replace the
> door harness as a unit, including the part that flexes and fails.  I'm
> pretty sure he bought a replacement from the dealer.
> -------------
> Max
> Charleston SC
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 7:15 PM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> So I had the opportunity to delve into this problem again on my brother’s
>> 1989 300TE- rear left window going down spontaneously. As many of you
>> suspected the problem does indeed lie in the wiring harness between the b
>> pillar and rear door. One wire is sheared in half while others have cracked
>> and missing insulation. How do I fix this? Is there a replacement window
>> harness available? I can’t see crimping the wires together working in this
>> location as the flexing from door opening and closing will cause the repair
>> to fail in short order.
>> 
>> 
>> 
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