Assume engine drain plug has never been removed.
And assuming you're talking about the things of which there
are (potentially) three or so along the waterline of the block.
In one of which the block heater goes, in other words. It's a
freeze plug, not a drain, in that you can drain more out the
front by removing the water pump housing. (More later.) The
reason for that row of holes is for manufacturing of the block,
not for draining out the coolant at random times.
1. Best way to access from above or below?;
Above, I've found. After removing alternator, radiator, and manifolds.
2. Size of drain plug, looks to be between 17 mm and 20 mm what is it
please?
19mm or 3/4". Microscopic difference between the two, well below
manufacturing tolerance for that rather crude plug.
3. Is there rachet extention set combo that will work?
Extensions are no good, we're talking a _lot_ of torque required.
With an extension you get too much side torque, you can't keep
the 'elbow' in place. You do _not_ want to ream out the hex on
the plug! That's why you remove the manifolds and all that
other crap. That lets you get the 3/4" drive socket set on
there without extensions. Removing the radiator is so you can
put a cheater bar on it. A few feet ought to do it. I used
my Harbor Freight socket set, and a fencepost driver as a cheat.
4. The drain plug does it need a seal or some thread puddy when you
reinstall it.
It's puttied when installed by the factory. That's why you
need real heat (read: acetylene) to remove it. The application
of which is why you need to drain the block first (out the front)
to get the area above boiling heat.
5. If it has not been removed will it take a gorrilla from the Bronz
Zoo to
do it?
Ook ook, my man.
Anything else you can share please. Want to flush the right way.
Don't bother if flushing is your game. Pull the water pump housing
instead. You remove those plugs to replace one with a block heater.
(And if you had one, it's easily unscrewed when compared to that
wretched plug.) And for normal flushing you don't need to do this
either, popping open a heater line is sufficient.
Did I mention that this job is a major PITA? And that I've heard
tell of a cracked block or two when the job goes wrong?
You can dig my tale out of: http://cathey.dogear.com/frankenheap.html
-- Jim
