It's a 95, it's an OBDI car.  It's a 10 and it means the IAT sensor.

 

 

 

 

Larry Alster

 

91 Miata  White Knight

92 Miata  Silver Bullet

92 Miata  Honey B

04 MSM MX-5 Whooosh

06 WRX STi Subie

 

From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Stephanie Turner
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 2:16 PM
To: 'Donni Howell'; [email protected]
Subject: RE: NPC - CEL code 10 diagnostic help?

 

My code reader is telling me that a P0010 code, on a Mazda, is for any of
the following:

~EGR Valve stuck

~Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit

~Fan Switch / Dial

~Steering Angle Sensor short

 

I'd start somewhere other than the MAF. If the MAF was bad, it would be
quite obvious and the car would run like ick. If the EGR was stuck the car
would still run ok. Personally, I'd verify the code again then start
checking wires to the Camshaft sensor and fan switches first. Make sure
those fans are coming on. 

 

Are you sure the code is just "10" or are there other numbers in front of
it? The codes do run in numerical order from P0010 to P3000 (and beyond).

 

Stephanie

 

BEGi / Bell Engineering

Phone: 830.438.2890

Fax: 830.438.8361

www.bellengineering.net

 

Please include all previous correspondence when replying to an e-mail.

 

From: Donni Howell [mailto:[email protected]] 
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 12:36 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: NPC - CEL code 10 diagnostic help?

 

So I have a fun issue. 95 Miata, Check engine light is on - "code 10". Air
temp sensor circuit. Car seems to run fine. I swapped out the MAF with the
one from my 96 and cleared the code....came right back within seconds.

Car had a JR M45 on it when I bought it and it looks like some of the MAF
wiring may have been "disturbed" during the install (some non-OEM tape just
behind the connector). The MAF connector is seated firmly but the little
clip that secures it was broken off long before this issue.

So first question is, how do I test the wiring (say between MAF connector
and ECU), just continuity? Any resistances or voltages to check for at the
connector? Should I maybe try to locate a new connector and splice it, or is
it possible to get the pins out and re-insert in a good connector?

Other thoughts from the peanut gallery? :-)

-- 
"If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough." -
Mario Andretti

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