I finally got around to building my spinner tonight.  What a fun
little kit!  I have four OG-4's that arrived from the Land of the Bear
a couple weeks ago.  All spin nicely.  Thanks for a great project.
I'm considering the idea of using this circuit as a power supply for a
nixie clock and use the Dekatron as a pendulum of sorts. I like the
simple power supply using an LM393 rather than a finicky chip designed
for switchmode use.

I have one issue with one of the OG-4 tubes in that it is very loose
in its base.  What type of cement or glue do you guys recommend to fix
it in place? I have read in the past that super glue shouldn't be used
to repair tubes since it allows for no expansion, therefore risking
cracking the glass.

Joe, N6DGY

On Jan 7, 8:54 am, threeneurons <threeneur...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Jan 7, 2:23 am, "Tidak Ada" <offl...@zeelandnet.nl> wrote:
>
> > Thanks Mike,
>
> > That's verry usefull info. Now waiting untill your stuff arrives here...
>
> > May be I will buy suitable capacitors and diodes for the higer voltage.
> > Any hints for the diodes??
>
> > eric
>
> For actually changing the supply to 500V, the components used, need to
> be rated over 250V. The supply 1st makes 250V, then enters a doubler,
> to get 500V. Q1 needs to be a 300V, or 400V FET. An IRFD320, rated at
> 400V, is provided, so no need to change this one. C2 thru C4, are 1uf,
> 250V, which should be swapped for 350V rated caps. D1 thru D3 provided
> are BAV21s which have 250V ratings. Change these to the MUR140, which
> is rated for 400V. UF4007 will work, too. Make sure its a UF4007, not
> a 1N4007. Two entirely different parts. Eric, I know, you know the
> difference, but someone else reading this may not. If R8 is made a
> 6.8K (instead of the 7.5K provided), the output should be around 500V.
> With R8 kept at 7.5K, but R7 raised to 820K, the output will be
> ~550V.
>
> Buy your parts at reputable dealers. Its already been shown, that some
> eBay sellers, just restamp their diodes with whatever part number is
> in demand.

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