Well, the new OM-1 (which wasn't realeased when I bought my M1X) at
the top-of-the-line point does seem to be about the same price as a K3.
Mind you, although Olympus show the M1X at the full $3000 price point,
there are still a few places (including some Amazon sellers) listing
it at the $1700 price Olympus were offering for a few months last year.
(For reference, the previous M1 model was also around the 2K price that
most sellers seem to be asking for a K3).  Not that I'd suggest the M1X
for a camera you're buying to carrying around on your bike!

There are lots of good u4/3 camera bodies - it really depends on just
how complex you want the camera to be over and above using it as a
point-and-shoot.  I'm trying to persuade my wife that she should get
an M10 as an upgrade replacement for our EPL-1; that way I could use
it as a backup and/or biking/walk-around camera (with the 12-100).
But I'm limiting my choice to Olympus so that I get the full benefit
of their IBIS (In Body Image Stabilization) system - while u4/3 lenses
can be used on any u4/3 body, not all features work across brands.
There's no reason for you to limit your search to just Olympus if you
find a camera from someone else (Panasonic, say) more to your liking.

Good glass isn't going to be cheap, but it's cheaper than glass for
a K3 or K1 :-)  Unless you can find somebody who's prepared to lend
you a nice lens, of course.  Good luck with that ...

P.S. As Godfrey points out, the M1 bodies do have a way to save a
configuration (several different ones, in fact), so resetting to a
known state isn't difficult once you've set up the configuration.

On Thu, Apr 07, 2022 at 10:13:03AM -0700, Larry Colen wrote:
> I am considering celebrating my new job by getting a u4/3 camera to carry on 
> my bike, possibly an E-M5.  I was poking around last night looking at the 
> current models and a couple of them are up in the K3iii price range, if not 
> more expensive, if you buy them new.
> 
> I did see a couple of bodies on KEH in the $400-800 range, but that still 
> leaves the question of glass.
> 
> 
> 
> > On Apr 7, 2022, at 10:00 AM, Alan C <c...@lantic.net> wrote:
> > 
> > You guys are crazy. You need a big frame on wheels on which you can mount 
> > them all & then fire them simultaneously with some sort of automatic 
> > device. Then you could spend the next week analysing all the images so you 
> > can rank them in order of sharpness, colour rendition & whatever else you 
> > fancy. Then you would be able to truly decide which one (or maybe 2) 
> > cameras are worth keeping. The balance can be donated to a charity shop.
> > 
> > For me, one camera is quite enough.
> > 
> > My tongue is stuck to a cheek now!
> > 
> > Alan C
> > 
> > On 07-Apr-22 05:30 PM, Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:
> >> I still have my Olympus E-M1 (the original version in this line, which I 
> >> bought in 2013) ??? and its great grandparent, the E-1 DSLR from 2003. 
> >> Although I've said to myself, "Heck, I hardly ever take these cameras out 
> >> anymore, I should sell the lot!" I just haven't found any sensible reason 
> >> to. The E-M1 in particular still works brilliantly for most of the things 
> >> I photograph and its extreme configurability/customizability is amazing.
> >> 
> >> My Leicas have all had the ability to save a user profile (actually a few 
> >> of them) both internally and in an externally saveable format, and return 
> >> the cameras to their defaults instantly as well as re-instantiate a 
> >> customized profile just as instantly. You can also transfer those settings 
> >> from one to another of the same body easily. I really wish Olympus had 
> >> done the same thing right from the start.
> >> 
> >> (Note: I think the E-M1 has a similar concept of user profiles at least, I 
> >> should probably re-read the manual???)
> >> 
> >> What I did to save time (since you *can* do a master reset of all 
> >> parameters on the Olympus, at least on both of mine) was to create a 
> >> checklist-cheatsheet for all 197 settings that marks out quickly and 
> >> simply all of my changes from the default configuration. So when I do 
> >> reset the E-M1 to its defaults, I just pull out the cheat sheet and walk 
> >> through all the settings that I changed as a standard setup to reconfigure 
> >> it to my basic configuration. Takes about ten minutes that way, and 
> >> without having to do any head scratching and trying to remember how I had 
> >> it set. I used the pages in the PDF form of the owner's manual that list 
> >> out ALL the menu options and defaults to construct the cheat sheet: just 
> >> copied them into a new PDF and edited that into the form I wanted.
> >> 
> >> Hope That Helps???
> >> 
> >> G
> >> 
> >>> On Apr 6, 2022, at 9:07 PM, John Francis <jo...@panix.com> wrote:
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >>> As some of you may remember, some five months ago I decided that
> >>> the K3iii, while a nice camera, wasn't tempting enough to get me
> >>> to spend that amount of money on a new APS-C camera body.
> >>> I was already finding that carrying a camera bag with my K5, the
> >>> 60-250, and a selection of other items (generally one or other of
> >>> the 16-50 or 50-135, and maybe the 50/1.4) was getting tiring by
> >>> the end of the day, so I was looking for a way to lighten the load.
> >>> I'd looked at the Olympus bodies, and was leaning towards either
> >>> the M5 or possibly the M1, when Olympus decided to drop the price
> >>> of the M1X by 40%, making it only a little more expensive than the
> >>> M1 (and $300 less than Pentax were asking for the K3) for a body
> >>> that was specifically tailored for what I was most interested in -
> >>> Motorsports or wildlife photography.
> >>> 
> >>> So I jumped, and picked up the M1X and the 40-150/2.8 zoom (which
> >>> gave me pretty much the same field of view as the 60-250, which had
> >>> become my most-used lens).
> >>> 
> >>> I haven't done a great deal of photography in the five months that
> >>> have elapsed since then, but it's all been with the M1X. I've just
> >>> about become accustomed to the fact that almost all the controls
> >>> work exactly the way the Pentax controls don't (I have to turn the
> >>> dials in the opposite direction for many functions, the assignment
> >>> of the two thumbwheels on the body to control shutter and aperture
> >>> has the two functions interchanged, the lens release button is on
> >>> the other side of the mount, etc., etc.) Fortunately, though, the
> >>> M1X is amazingly reconfigurable - most of the vast number of buttons
> >>> spread over the body can be re-assigned to different functions (and
> >>> there's an easy way to swap the functions on those two thumbwheels),
> >>> 
> >>> One thing I have found out, though, is that it's a little too easy
> >>> to get yourself stuck in a corner.  With the Pentax bodies all you
> >>> have to do to reset the camera to a known state is to turn it off
> >>> and on again.  The M1X, though, remembers the state it was it when
> >>> you turned it off, and goes back to that state when you turn it on
> >>> again (although there's probably a way to change that behaviour, too).
> >>> 
> >>> Last weekend I decided I was going to stick with the lighter system.
> >>> I knew I wanted something wider than 40mm, but I wasn't sure whether
> >>> to go for the 12-40/2.8 or the 12-100/4. I eventually decided to go
> >>> for the 12-100, and add a 2x TC to use with the 40-150 to give me a
> >>> two-lens system of 12-100/4 and 80-300/5.6 (roughly comparable to a
> >>> range of 17-425 on my K5 - giving up 1mm at the wide end, but gaining
> >>> a little more reach than the 350mm I got with the 60-250 & a 1.4x TC).
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >>> --
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> --
> Larry Colen
> l...@red4est.com.   sent from ret4est
> 
> 
> 
> 
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