Hi Bill,

Many thanks for the explanation. I will follow the lines

With regards,
Ayash.

On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, William Robb wrote:

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee
> Subject: Twin flash for Macro: Some thoughts
> 
> Hi Ayash:
>     You had best use both flash units in manual. As you know, in
> auto, they will quench very quickly when used close to the
> subject. Don't worry about point source or whatever, as that
> isn't germaine to light measurement anyway.
>     Here is what I would do:
> If you can keep the flash to subject distance constant from
> setup to setup, then the calculations become simpler.
> I would use the 285 as my main light, as it is the most powerful
> of the two.
> First, calculate the aperture needed, either via the guide
> number or the calculator dial, based only on the flash to
> subject distance. Next, calculate the number of stops you need
> to open up the aperture.
> 
> You can do it the hard way, based on the amount of lens
> extension.
> 
> The formula for that is :
> 
> Extension factor = (extension from infinity focus)squared,
> divided bt (focal length)squared.
> 
> If you are using a macro lens, the extension factor is often
> engraved on the lens barrel.
> 
> Or, you can do it the easy way, using the TTL meter of your
> camera. Meter a gray card at infinity, then meter it again at
> the lens extension that will be used. The difference is the
> number of stops you lose to lens extension.
> 
> If you are using the second flash as a backlight, then you can
> ignore it for the base exposure, but you will need to calculate
> it's effect on the image, again using the guide number, or
> exposure scale. Figure you want it a stop or so less bright than
> the main light.
> 
> If you are using the second flash as a fill, then you will want
> to calculate the distance from the subject you want it to be, to
> give an appropriate fill ratio. You will find that having the
> fill somewhat less bright than the main will give the most
> pleasing effect.
> 
> Be sure to make careful notes, especially making careful
> measurements of the flash to subject distance, as that is the
> most important measurement for calculating the aperture. You
> will find that you probably won't have to do a lot of testing
> until you get it right, providing you follow a fairly scientific
> approach.
> 
> William Robb
> 
> 
> 
> > Hallo all!
> >
> > I have two flash units. I want to use both the flashes
> simultaneously for
> > frontal lighting, sidelighting and back lighting macro shots
> of flowers
> > etc. I have a synchronization cord, eye and cord extensions (2
> m) to fire
> > the flashes simultaneously. The problem is automodes of the
> flash won't
> > help me while doing macro macrophotography because the
> f/stop-film
> > speed-distance chart at the back of the flash is made on the
> assumption
> > that the source is a point source (Am I right?). When the
> flash is near (1
> > m) to the subject, it is no more a point source but an
> extended source.
> > The only way that I
> > can control the light is by adjusting the separation between
> the subject
> > (flower) and the flash or adjusting the output levels of the
> flash.
> > Has anybody got some experience in using twin non-TTL flash
> for macro? I
> > can not understand what aperture shall I set. Do I have to
> calculate
> > Bruhlich factor and prepare the nomograms? If yes, it becomes
> tedious.
> >
> > The other thing that is not clear to me, is using the non-TTL
> flash as a
> > fill flash for macro shots. Is it possible to use the
> automodes here?
> > Or shall I adjust the output level? If the second is true,
> what aperture
> > shall I choose for a particular distance (1-1.5 m) for so and
> so guide
> > number.
> >
> > I use Vivitar 2800 (G.N. 22 m) and Vivitar 285HV (G.N. 36 m at
> Normal
> > setting of the zoom head).
> >
> > Thanks for reading.
> >
> > With regards,
> > Ayash.
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