I fully insulated my 21' square wooden garage and it only takes one 3kW
heater to keep it warm, it's on a thermostat to keep the temperature to
around 10 C through the winter, stops things going rusty.
Insulation is also a bonus in the summer, keeps the garage nice and cool.
Pre fab Concrete garages are a bit of a pain to insulate, on my brothers
one we ended up using hard foam insulation and holding it up with sheets
of plywood on the inside.
Don't forget to put seals around the doors as well.
Jim
On 07/02/2012 06:20, jin wrote:
thats a good idea mate, ill take a look
the garage is insulated slightly, the roof is done and the main door,
but not the sides, ill be doing them one day hopfully, once ive got
the big lump of fiberglass in the middle out the way first ;-)
On Feb 6, 10:41 pm, "Matthew Wastell"<matt...@wastell.eu> wrote:
Any chance of insulating the garage? Insulations a much better bet than
more/different heaters.
When I used to do a lot of outside work on muddy land rovers in the winter I
would wear an all in one motorcycle thermal suit (under layer) and then
normal clothes on top and a boiler suit. Seems to work well (just don't
lie in a puddle!). Thermal suits can be picked up for £10-£20 from
motorcycle places online.
Matthew
-----Original Message-----
From: quantumowners@googlegroups.com [mailto:quantumowners@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of jin
Sent: 06 February 2012 20:03
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: bulkhead refurb update
the wiring and the plug were about the only things that were warm ive got to
get this sorted, i hate being cold but im having real trouble getting the
garage warm enough
if only i could park the car in the house.........
On Feb 6, 7:02 pm, Jim Hearne<j...@quantums.info> wrote:
Eek, you were taking 25 amps down a 13 amp extension lead, i bet the
wiring and the plug were getting a bit warm !
Jim
On 05/02/2012 16:48, jin wrote:
cheers guys
yep i knew at the time i was being optemistic by switching off the
radio and phone, but it was sooooo cold outside i opted for the
warmth, with breaks back into the house to replace the fuse (13A)
i will be looking into getting a proper feed into the garage soon,
in the meantime ill just have to put 2 pairs of overalls on ;-)
On Feb 5, 12:05 pm, Jim Hearne<j...@quantums.info> wrote:
Keep up the good work, nice to see some Quantum work being done,
even if it's not mine :-(
As you've found, the radio and phone charger draw no significant
current, it's the fan heaters that do.
Each 2kW heater will be taking 8.3 amps, thats 25 amps altogether.
Whats the rating fuse thats blowing ?, unless you have a ring main
wiring circuit on the in the garage you may well be overloading the
wiring, in the worst case this could cause a fire.
Jim
On 05/02/2012 10:47, jin wrote:
busy time of it
drilled and tapped all the holes that will hold my heater hose
seal plate in place
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/04022012001.jpg
(at this point i haven't yet realised ive fitted the wrong size
bolts in the holes - oh what fun) and heres the finished result
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/04022012002.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/04022012003.jpg
thats the begining and the end
the bit in between went a bit like this, slapped loads of
sikaflex on the reverse side of the stainless panel and squished
into place, all looks well but a bit messy with black goo oozing
all round the edges, then find the pack of correct length M4 bolts
on the floor ....... oh ehk, ive already araldited the others
in, thankfully with slow set, so i unwound those (ever tried using
an Allen key when its stuck to your fingers?) then put the new
bolts in place, ok back to step one and start fitting the rest -
then total darkness the garage electrics obviously cant cope with
3 x 2kw fan heaters a radio and phone charger, so i fumble about
in the dark (all the while realizing the sikaflex may start to set
in the wrong place since ive not actually tightened any bolts yet)
to replace the main fuse and start again, this time without the
radio or phone charger (cant loose the heaters as its chucking it
down with snow outside and i can still feel a chill inside) get a
few bolts in, all the while loads of sikaflex is oozing out start
juggling about 30 rags and a bottle white sprit, fit the wrong
nuts on the plates main securing bolts then......
total darkness again
double arse
of we go again feeling my way out the garage to put a new fuse in,
thinking ok ill have to loose a heater so may as well put the radio
back on, after more faffing about and 300 rags later i got it all
bolted on and wiped off looks ok and will looks better when ive
had time to properly wipe down the surface more and clean off the
few smears should start on the servo side soon if i can muster the
strength ive no idea how jim managed to do the whole front in one
piece, ive had i nightmare doing just half but i take my hat off
to him On Dec 30 2011, 2:40 pm, jin<jinmys...@btinternet.com>
wrote:
update
ive removed the pop rivets and P clips that held the brake pipes
on,http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02331.jpg
they didn't fit too well and the pop rivets didn't go through
the bulkhead so only served to swell out the fiberglass and let
water and dirt in, evidenced by the dirt that had crept within
the hole around the rivet, i chamferd the holes to remove the
contaminated fiberglass and gelcoted from the outside with a thin
layerhttp://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02333.jpg
then filled the rear with slow set araldite to seal the join and
hopefully put a bit more strength back in
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02336.jpg
the tape is just to stop it running out and keep it smooth cut
out the first hole for my cable glands, i found a cone step drill
very handy for enlarging holes (I'm using one of my extra? servo
mount holes that were drilled but unused?) since they locate and
don't wander about ripping the gel coat like normal twist drills,
only thing to do is drill both sides sins the steps are shallow,
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02332.jpg
tapped it out to the right size
and sealed the fiberglass with araldite resin and wound the gland
inhttp://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02335.jpg
then gave a wipe round the inside with more resin just to be
sure, these should be very water proof now, this one will be for
the wiper motor as for the brake pipes, I'm not too sure how I'm
going to secure the P clips, I'm not going to use pop rivets fore
sure, i may drill a few holes and tap a thread then wind in a
stainless stud with araldite to seal unless anyone knows a batter
way?
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the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the preparation of the
above information shall have any liability to any person or entity with respect to
liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the
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