Yikes! In the near future I want to send my All Rounder to Mark N. and have a plate put on. Pretty easy to get that done, it's then having it re-painted that kills ya'!
DE On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 1:19 PM, Pete <pedalling.p...@gmail.com> wrote: > > The Bleriot chainstays are probably a bit thicker than most tube sets. > But I must tell you I had a very disappointing experience of the ESGE- > Pletscher double stand. Mounted a new one to my converted MTB-tourer > made from Tange Prestige, not the ul-light version, for a six month > tour from Singapore to Hong Kong. To avoid problems I used both a > nylock nut and soft Loctite but after only a few days the stand came > loose. I mistook this as the nut loosening and started to tight it > down. I still kept coming loose but before I realised what had really > happened one leg snapped straight off! I had the bike fully loaded and > pulled it up on the stand while on a gravel road. One leg ended up on > a stone buried in the sand and shattered right of like glass. A month > or so later in Chiang Mai I had the bike serviced and found out that > in fact the weight of the luggage had pressed the stays down and > deformed them witch was the cause for the stand to come loose. There > were even some holes so I swapped the frame for a new as I was unsure > of the availability of good steel frames in Laos and China. Now, I'm > sure this doesnt happen in most cases where the bike is only used for > light touring, centuries and so on. But it is worth to remember and > maybe considering adding a larger diy support plate between the clamp > and frame. > > On 16 Aug, 00:44, eflayer <eddie.fla...@att.net> wrote: > > wow, everything you ever wanted to know. thanks. had a double one on > > my easy racer tour easy. have a rear triangle one on my kogswell. > > that stand is ugly, but works like a charm. think the bleriot deseves > > to join the kickstand club. think i'll try the make a gasket trick to > > protect that fine bluish paint job. > > > > On Aug 15, 2:39 pm, Dave Craig <dcr...@prescott.edu> wrote: > > > > > > > > > I've recently rediscovered kickstands after decades of thinking they > > > were too geeky for my bikes. In fact, I've kind of become sort of a > > > kickstand evangelist! I've got experience now on several bikes with > > > three major types of stands, the two you describe and the pletscher > > > double kickstand. They all work fine, although on a recent tour, I had > > > to reluctantly admit that the rear triangle stand I had installed on > > > my wife's bike worked way better than my Swiss stand. The rear > > > triangle mount works great on uneven ground, on hills and with heavy > > > touring loads. I used a single leg stand mounted on a kickstand plate. > > > I had to be much more attentive to how I parked. > > > > > Here's a couple of quick tips for doing a good job on your chainstay > > > mounted stand: > > > > > 1) Wrap your chainstays to prevent scratching before installing the > > > kickstand. Actually, only the areas where the kickstand mounting > > > plates contact the frame need to be protected. I do this by cutting > > > some "make a gasket" to fit the mounting plates - you'll need to punch > > > a hole for the bolt (gasket material is sold in the plumbing section > > > at True Value - it is more durable than other materials). > > > > > 2) Kickstands often come loose over time. To prevent this, buy a > > > stainless steel bolt that is long enough to go through both plates > > > with room to attach a nylock nut. Or, with the supplied bolt, use > > > Locktite Blue and a lock washer. > > > > > 3) Install the stand. Before you tighten it down fully with nylocks or > > > otherwise, check to see if your bike leans securely onto the stand. If > > > it's too upright, you'll need to trim the kickstand. It is tempting to > > > do this while the stand is on the bike and with an electric cutting > > > tool, it works. If you are using a hacksaw, take the stand off to cut > > > it. You'll do better work and you won't risk damaging your paint. Take > > > the time to file down the rough cut edges on the stand. This will make > > > the rubber foot last much longer. Use the rubber foot as it makes the > > > stand friendlier to floors and it helps keep the stand from sinking > > > into soft ground. > > > > > 4) Tighten the stand onto the stays. You want to do this carefully and > > > incrementally. Tighten and check for play in the plate. If it wiggles > > > when you check by hand, tighten it a little more, test, and repeat. Be > > > sure you are checking the plate and not the kickstand itself. The > > > kickstand has play in it. Watch the mounting plate to see if it moves > > > on the chainstays. Recheck your kickstand from time to time. > > > > > 5) Kickstanded bikes often fall because the bike rolls forward or > > > backward. For really secure kickstand parking, install a simple > > > parking brake. I use a loop of narrow bungee cord around the bars tied > > > tight enough to keep the brakes applied. The loop stays on my bars. > > > When I park, I apply the brakes and I stretch the bungee onto the > > > brake lever. The front wheel is usually the culprit, so I ordinarily > > > use that brake as my parking brake. > > > > > That's it!! > > > > > On Aug 15, 7:12 am, eflayer <eddie.fla...@att.net> wrote: > > > > > > Will a Pletscher or Greenfield kickstand clamp on the chainstays > right > > > > behind the seat tube? I know you can get those clunky ones that > mount > > > > at the rear of the bike, but was wondering if the space behind the > > > > seat tube is condusive?- Hide quoted text - > > > > > - Show quoted text -- Dölj citerad text - > > > > - Visa citerad text - > > > > -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA "Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym." ~Bill Nye, scientist guy --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. 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