Wow, 13 models of bike stands, I'm impressed!!!

Cool to know!

On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 3:34 AM, Pete <pedalling.p...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> That is probably the sensible thing to do. Riv and other US
> manufacturers have have learned from the Europeans and started to fit
> such plate on some models so there seem to be a need for it.
> Besides, you get to pick your favorite colour! :P
>
> After my experience with the ESGE-Pletscher I tried to get hold of the
> Hebie 605 bi-pod stand. It's supposed to be more durable. But the
> importer in my part of the woods wasn't up for it. But I think they
> are worth a look:
> http://www.hebie.de/Home.1.0.html?&L=1
>
> Clever Cycles spec them so they seem to be available in the US:
> http://clevercycles.com/store/?c=web2.173
>
> They also make a durable one leg stand that mount to the rear stays
> but it's perhaps not as nice on the eye.
> ;)
>
>
> On 17 Aug, 07:46, David Estes <cyclotour...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > Yikes!
> >
> > In the near future I want to send my All Rounder to Mark N. and have a
> plate
> > put on.  Pretty easy to get that done, it's then having it re-painted
> that
> > kills ya'!
> >
> > DE
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 1:19 PM, Pete <pedalling.p...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > The Bleriot chainstays are probably a bit thicker than most tube sets.
> > > But I must tell you I had a very disappointing experience of the ESGE-
> > > Pletscher double stand. Mounted a new one to my converted MTB-tourer
> > > made from Tange Prestige, not the ul-light version, for a six month
> > > tour from Singapore to Hong Kong. To avoid problems I used both a
> > > nylock nut and soft Loctite but after only a few days the stand came
> > > loose. I mistook this as the nut loosening and started to tight it
> > > down. I still kept coming loose but before I realised what had really
> > > happened one leg snapped straight off! I had the bike fully loaded and
> > > pulled it up on the stand while on a gravel road. One leg ended up on
> > > a stone buried in the sand and shattered right of like glass. A month
> > > or so later in Chiang Mai I had the bike serviced and found out that
> > > in fact the weight of the luggage had pressed the stays down and
> > > deformed them witch was the cause for the stand to come loose. There
> > > were even some holes so I swapped the frame for a new as I was unsure
> > > of the availability of good steel frames in Laos and China. Now, I'm
> > > sure this doesnt happen in most cases where the bike is only used for
> > > light touring, centuries and so on. But it is worth to remember and
> > > maybe considering adding a larger diy support plate between the clamp
> > > and frame.
> >
> > > On 16 Aug, 00:44, eflayer <eddie.fla...@att.net> wrote:
> > > > wow, everything you ever wanted to know.  thanks.  had a double one
> on
> > > > my easy racer tour easy.  have a rear triangle one on my kogswell.
> > > > that stand is ugly, but works like a charm.  think the bleriot
> deseves
> > > > to join the kickstand club.  think i'll try the make a gasket trick
> to
> > > > protect that fine bluish paint job.
> >
> > > > On Aug 15, 2:39 pm, Dave Craig <dcr...@prescott.edu> wrote:
> >
> > > > > I've recently rediscovered kickstands after decades of thinking
> they
> > > > > were too geeky for my bikes. In fact, I've kind of become sort of a
> > > > > kickstand evangelist! I've got experience now on several bikes with
> > > > > three major types of stands, the two you describe and the pletscher
> > > > > double kickstand. They all work fine, although on a recent tour, I
> had
> > > > > to reluctantly admit that the rear triangle stand I had installed
> on
> > > > > my wife's bike worked way better than my Swiss stand. The rear
> > > > > triangle mount works great on uneven ground, on hills and with
> heavy
> > > > > touring loads. I used a single leg stand mounted on a kickstand
> plate.
> > > > > I had to be much more attentive to how I parked.
> >
> > > > > Here's a couple of quick tips for doing a good job on your
> chainstay
> > > > > mounted stand:
> >
> > > > > 1) Wrap your chainstays to prevent scratching before installing the
> > > > > kickstand. Actually, only the areas where the kickstand mounting
> > > > > plates contact the frame need to be protected. I do this by cutting
> > > > > some "make a gasket" to fit the mounting plates - you'll need to
> punch
> > > > > a hole for the bolt (gasket material is sold in the plumbing
> section
> > > > > at True Value - it is more durable than other materials).
> >
> > > > > 2) Kickstands often come loose over time. To prevent this, buy a
> > > > > stainless steel bolt that is long enough to go through both plates
> > > > > with room to attach a nylock nut. Or, with the supplied bolt, use
> > > > > Locktite Blue and a lock washer.
> >
> > > > > 3) Install the stand. Before you tighten it down fully with nylocks
> or
> > > > > otherwise, check to see if your bike leans securely onto the stand.
> If
> > > > > it's too upright, you'll need to trim the kickstand. It is tempting
> to
> > > > > do this while the stand is on the bike and with an electric cutting
> > > > > tool, it works. If you are using a hacksaw, take the stand off to
> cut
> > > > > it. You'll do better work and you won't risk damaging your paint.
> Take
> > > > > the time to file down the rough cut edges on the stand. This will
> make
> > > > > the rubber foot last much longer. Use the rubber foot as it makes
> the
> > > > > stand friendlier to floors and it helps keep the stand from sinking
> > > > > into soft ground.
> >
> > > > > 4) Tighten the stand onto the stays. You want to do this carefully
> and
> > > > > incrementally. Tighten and check for play in the plate. If it
> wiggles
> > > > > when you check by hand, tighten it a little more, test, and repeat.
> Be
> > > > > sure you are checking the plate and not the kickstand itself. The
> > > > > kickstand has play in it. Watch the mounting plate to see if it
> moves
> > > > > on the chainstays. Recheck your kickstand from time to time.
> >
> > > > > 5) Kickstanded bikes often fall because the bike rolls forward or
> > > > > backward. For really secure kickstand parking, install a simple
> > > > > parking brake. I use a loop of narrow bungee cord around the bars
> tied
> > > > > tight enough to keep the brakes applied. The loop stays on my bars.
> > > > > When I park, I apply the brakes and I stretch the bungee onto the
> > > > > brake lever.  The front wheel is usually the culprit, so I
> ordinarily
> > > > > use that brake as my parking brake.
> >
> > > > > That's it!!
> >
> > > > > On Aug 15, 7:12 am, eflayer <eddie.fla...@att.net> wrote:
> >
> > > > > > Will a Pletscher or Greenfield kickstand clamp on the chainstays
> > > right
> > > > > > behind the seat tube?  I know you can get those clunky ones that
> > > mount
> > > > > > at the rear of the bike, but was wondering if the space behind
> the
> > > > > > seat tube is condusive?- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > > > > - Show quoted text -- Dölj citerad text -
> >
> > > > - Visa citerad text -
> >
> > --
> > Cheers,
> > David
> > Redlands, CA
> >
> > "Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
> > wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym."  ~Bill Nye,
> > scientist guy- Dölj citerad text -
> >
> > - Visa citerad text -
>
> >
>


-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

"Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym."  ~Bill Nye,
scientist guy

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