FP: it's a Dreamgear gamepad, red lava glower Just for reference I have a PS3, and the quality of the genuine Sony gamepad is still far and away better than any third party unit I've seen. Also, adjusting dead-band can help, but of course it also reduces the distance of "active" travel on what is already a stick with limited movement (compared to an aero-style RC), so this makes it harder to control.
ST: acknowledged and agreed - during my last test drives I didnt throw a track, and that included neutral turns and climbing a gutter, I think the track was a little tighter then though, more testing required! DC: It's a Kemo #M020 made in Germany, gives 1.1A output max (3min, 5% duty cycle) - (0.5A continuous) and has thermal overload shutdown. Several (they depict up to 3 in the diagram) can be wired in series to increase the max AMP output, or they make a bigger one that can handle 3A (the M030). This unit is the only one I've seen in the electronics store that I found it in and from memory it was quite expensive at around $40 (AUD). Here is a link: http://www.hood.de/auction/34732216/kemo-m020-lkw-boot-spannungswandler-von-24-v-13-8-v-.htm My rear idlers are bearing spinners on the fixed rear axle, they are not bound together but I have thought about it, thanks for the tip. On May 24, 2:54 am, "Doug Conn" <dwconn...@comcast.net> wrote: > It looks great, Ben. A lot of work going on there. > > What make of 24v->12v converter are you using ? > > I use twin #50 roller chain tracks, too, and I've had my share of track > throwing problems. The latest thing I tried was to tie my two rear idlers > together to stop them turning independently. I'm not sure how yours are set > up, but you may give that a try. It helped for me. > > I'm planning my next track now. I think I will cast some track treads that > have guide teeth. Each pad will also have a small indentation for the > attachment chain tab to mount into. That should help keep the two chains > from skewing relative to each other. I think that is a big contributing > factor to throwing a track. > > I'm still open to the idea of injection molded track pads, if anybody wants > to go in together to defray the tooling costs. I've been pricing the > Smooth-On products I need to make the castings and it looks like it will > cost about $1.80 per tread for the resin and molding rubber. This is more > than the per-piece estimates I've been able to get for injection molding. > Injection molding carries a $1000 - $1500 USD tooling charge, though. > > - Doug > > -----Original Message----- > From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] > > On Behalf Of Modena > Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2009 4:36 AM > To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com > Subject: [TANKS] Improved T067...and threw a track > > Today I put T067 back together after fully disassembling the suspension and > drivetrain for some improvements after the initial test drive some weeks > ago. > > Improvements are that swing-arms are now riding on bronze bushings, have > high-tensile bolts and changes to the mounting bolt arrangement, which means > the swing-arms are now swinging as they should be, and suspension travel is > nice and free now with no unnecessary tension/ friction on the travel - all > the resistance is provided by the coil- spring, as it should be. Just > driving over grass has shown immediate "coolness" factor with tiny bits of > suspension travel all over the place. > > The two outer pillow-block bearings are gone and 2-bolt pressed-steel flange > bearings are in their place - this was for rigidity reasons and had the > secondary benefit of also saving some weight. The pillow blocks were > "sliding" on their mounts under the torque of the M01's. > > The Anvilus speed controller has been upgraded to dual Victor 883's with an > IMX-1 mixer. The Anvilus unit worked well, I just needed more grunt (this > thing is at 70kg already). > > I ditched the separate 12v battery and put in a 24v->12v step-down > converter, this will power the turret traverse and also feeds into another > voltage regulator to give 6v for the RX. So the whole setup is powered by > the one 24v 20-ah LifePo4 lithium battery. > > After finishing bolting it back together today, some quick test runs showed > that I really don't like the Ps2 controller. The C6C itself is fine, > multimeter and tank-on-blocks testing shows me it is doing exactly what it > should be doing, but the wireless remote is dodge - it bounces around, move > forward and let it go and it sometimes goes into a neutral spin, and other > sorts of associated annoying and potentially dangerous behaviour. I've > decided to go with a more traditional RC unit for this vehicle, I will use > my C6C for the support vehicle I have planned. > > Track tension is obviously not quite high enough, as two neutral on- > the-spot turns threw a track off the front drive-sprockets - I refitted the > track, neural turned again (by mistake, damn Ps2 remote) and it came off > again. > > Ah well, all good development time and it's slowly getting better and > better! > > Ben --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. 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