I feel the same way about the Outback Radian GSLC box, once it's fully
wired there's no room whatsoever, and sometimes you have to remove
breakers and layers of wiring to re-access things for debug. Don't know how
it meets code and ETL approval  for wire space.

On Thu, Apr 14, 2022 at 11:20 AM Jason Szumlanski via RE-wrenches <
re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:

> This problem is not limited to one manufacturer. One example is the
> Enphase smart controller. While the small holes are big enough for #6
> ground and neutral, you have to strip the wires perfectly and have the hand
> of a heart surgeon to get them in there. And conduit entry is a royal pain
> because the enclosure is tapered on the bottom and sides.
>
> Fortunately, all of these manufacturers seem to be making strides to make
> the roof installation easier. A little more attention to the electrical
> enclosures would be appreciated.
>
> Jason Szumlanski
>
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 14, 2022, 10:30 AM Dana Orzel via RE-wrenches <
> re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:
>
>> We have done one Solark installation & I was shocked as to the lack of
>> ground wire landing terminals & space. We added a 12126 metal box below to
>> ease the # of entrances to two 11/4”.
>>  I jumpered a # 8 to a second ground bar to allow for additional landing
>> locations. I called Solark to question this & the response to the question
>> was “yeah we have heard this from other installers “.
>> End of call.
>> Dana Orzel
>> C: 208.721.7003
>> E- d...@solarwork.com
>>
>> On Apr 13, 2022, at 8:21 PM, Maverick Brown via RE-wrenches <
>> re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:
>>
>> Ron
>>
>> The Sol-Ark has two MPPT channels and has two separate landing spots for
>> each MPPT channels. Each landing pair needs matching strings. 8 AWG wire
>> barely fits so the Sol-Ark PV terminals so they may only be rated for
>> 10AWG.
>>
>> I’m assuming you have a ground array  The most common stringing method
>> would be to use a trench with conduit and THHN wire. You could also sleeve
>> a direct-burial cable into the ground.  Calculate the voltage drop over the
>> distance to make sure 10AWG is adequate. If not, then make a junction, like
>> a MidNite or Outback combiner or an IMO switch at the array to get up the
>> right wire size, with an added MidNite Surge Protector or EMP shield
>> device. If it’s a long distance (larger wire size), add another combiner at
>> the inverter building entrance to get back to 10 AWG.
>>
>> https://practicalpreppers.com/product/imo-4-pole-16-amp-dc-disconnect/
>>
>> Also, The Sol-Ark sizing guide helps with string calculations.
>>
>> https://www.sol-ark.com/solar-panel-sizing/SolarPanelSizing.html
>>
>> Contact me off list with additional questions.
>>
>>
>>
>> Maverick Brown
>> Off-Grid Solar Commander since 2006
>> *Maverick Solar Enterprises, Inc.*
>> * • Solar Commander Remote Power*
>>
>> * • SunFlow Systems Cathodic Protection *maver...@mavericksolar.com
>> 512-460-9825
>>
>>
>> On Apr 12, 2022, at 9:42 PM, Ron Young via RE-wrenches <
>> re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Wrenches, trying to wrap my head around a first time Sol-Ark install.
>> Because the max DC voltage is 500v at 18a  and the PV I’m using is 40v DC
>> each I will have to create three strings each 480v. What would be the best
>> choice for a home run wire? I’ve always used smaller strings with micro
>> inverters, a combiner at the array and a single Teck home run cable but the
>> string inverter presents a different scenario and it looks like I’ll need
>> to use three home run cables, one for each string.
>>
>> Ron Young
>>
>> earthRight Products - Solareagle.com
>> Alternative Energy Solutions ~ Renewable Energy Products
>>
>>
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-- 

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