Bob: I use a 3-volt stall motor to turn the turntable bridge. With the locking pin, I generally use the turntable in a counterclockwise direction, run it slightly past by the desired exit route, drop the pin in place, and run the turntable back against it. The torque from the stall motor holds it in place.
I'm thinking about a short article about it because a little more is involved. I was trying to take pictures of it with the Fuji S9000, but it simply would not focus close enough for me. Then, my brain shorted out with one of those brain-warping "flash-overs" and I thought I would see what happens with the diopters. Technical question that should interest others on the list: I did an antique auto shoot (1st one in over a year!), and used a circular polarizing filter to cut glare. Every one of the shots came out 2 stops underexposed and I had to auto-enhance them with my photo editing program I thought the auto-exposure feature on the camera would compensate for the polarizer, but in this case it didn't. Was I wrong in my expectations? Incidentally, the camera was the Fuji S3, which I have since sent in for "computer re-education" since it was developing an independent mind set in other areas. Bob Nicholson _____________________________________________ --- In [email protected], Bob Werre <bob@...> wrote: > > Bob and All, > > I am one who has gone the electronic route to drive my turntable and it > hasn't been what I had hoped--being close enough doesn't work with rails > lineing up. However it's difficult in my case to be close enough to > have a manual interlock to assure an exact fit. I have the New York > drive system with an extra cost device that sort of squeezes the motor > shaft to prevent slop--sometimes it works in both directions and other > times, only one. I'm sure it due to my installation, but I'm not > certain what direction to go to make the correction. > > I did notice that you had tapered your rail quiet a bit, that might > help in my situation. Also it appears that you are dropping a locking > pin into position, is that correct? There is a small 1:1 turntable > located at the Stock Yards in Fort Worth (tourist train) that uses an > actual locking device that is fool proof in the real world. My good > friend Rusty Paulus had the Bowser turntable that he ran by hand. He > locked it by simply dropping a small piece of plastic across the gap and > it worked well. > > Your idea of digging out your dioptors for closeup work is a great way > of making things work. For many years I've owned a Nikon Micro-Nikor, > which will get you down to 1:1, but it's a normal focal length lens. > They also made longer focal length versions...at 105 and a 200mm that > were beautiful for limited applications. More lately they have produced > several lens in the macro range with shift and tilt features. I > purchased a used 85mm version and also broke the bank in the process. > The latest version of the 24mm version is someplace between 2-3K--maybe > some day. > > With that in mind I also dug out my diopter lenses that I bought in high > school. They work quite well and for model photography generally work > better than extension tubes where you want more depth of field. So they > are a great $20 solution! > > Bob Werre > PhotoTraxx > > > On 1/19/12 8:16 AM, shabbona_rr wrote: > > > > I came up with an excrutiatingly simple way to hold the turntable > > bridge at Terminal District steady while equipment moves on and off of > > it. Those abnormally attracted to electronic complexity and mysteries > > may want to turn their heads and not view it in polite surroundings > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/photos/album/1775582643/pic/587261192/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc > > > > <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/photos/album/1775582643/pic/587261192/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc> > > > > As important as the the turntable latch, though, is how I made the > > photograph. I had to send my Fuji S3 DSLR in for repair, so have been > > using my Fuji S9000 P&S as a backup. > > > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: [email protected] [email protected] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [email protected] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
