Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I take my tack to a block just aft of the furler. I also have a wide web that 
wraps around the furled headsail and keeps the tack near centerline. Ease the 
tack as you get further downwind.
Halyard definitely at the mast. Yes, use the outer halyards. On a three-halyard 
masthead only the "wings" can be used for the spinnaker, but all should work 
for the white sails.
Cheers
Andy

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Sep 9, 2016, at 18:06, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Just ordered my cruising chute from Rolly Tasker in Thailand and am looking 
> forward to trying it out.. Probably next season.   Have flown my symmetrical 
> a few times singlehanded.
> Considering how to do this on Windstar and am curious about how others have 
> addressed a few things:
> -Halyard at cockpit.   In this case it might make sense to have halyard at 
> mast - this way halyard, and spin-sock can be dealt with together.
> -Halyard at masthead.  On the 33-2 there are three halyards available, all 
> are in-masthead sheaves, parallel to each other .   I currently use the 
> centre one for the Genoa, and any other halyard chafes its neighbour on one 
> tack.   
> -Tack downhaul.   There isn't one forward of the furler drum.  The downhaul 
> itself can be rigged using the spin-pole downhaul line, fair leads and 
> cleats, but the fixed, forward tack is a problem to be resolved.   
> Many thanks for any guidance!
> Dave - Windstar 33-2
> 
> Sent from my iPad
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> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List STANDARD HORIZON WS 45 APPAARENT WIND INDICATOR

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Alex

 

Had similar issues with our Horizon WS unit.  We checked continuity of wire
from masthead to unit and all was well.  The masthead unit is a pretty
simple affair but does include electronics that can corrode / wear over
time.  I disassembled, sprayed with electronic cleaner put it all back
together and seems to be working OK.  My plan is to disassemble over the
winter, thoroughly clean and dry and hope for the best next year.  Suggest
check your continuity, ensure clean connections and give your mast head unit
some TLC

 

My 2 cents American

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex
Giannelia via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2016 3:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alex Giannelia
Subject: Stus-List STANDARD HORIZON WS 45 APPAARENT WIND INDICATOR

 

I have a WS45 Wind Indicator which for the first few years (2004-2006)
worked fine, then the speed stopped showing.  Later, I tried to connect
directly to the instrument and at that time thought it worked fine so when I
had the boat on the hard, I sent it to the distributor who said it works
fine.

 

Subsequently, on the mast, it won't even calibrate, so I now suspect the
assembly which starts at the masthead and is supposed to connect to the
instrument.  As these are no longer in production, I was wondering if a
lister replaced his and would be willing to part with the old one, or has a
suggestion how to build the box and shielded cable assembly to replace what
I have installed.

 

Alex Giannelia

C 35-II (1974) no 282

a...@airsensing.com

 

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Re: Stus-List Relocate Water Tank Fittings

[evans.in.gibsons via CnC-List]

My suggestion is to hook into the current line in an applicable place and  hold 
the pump as near as you can to where it will be located and see if it works 
without priming.
My Jabsco is mounted 6 feet away and level with the top of the tank.  The 1/2 
inch feed from the water tank feeds the pump in all condition and it can also 
pump the tank dry.

Moving the fitting may not be required.

MarkC 39Namba

 Original message 
From: Kevin Paxton via CnC-List  
Date: 09-09-2016  9:53 AM  (GMT-08:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Kevin Paxton  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Relocate Water Tank Fittings 

Dave,
Yea that was my first thought. It started with just removing the tank to clean 
it out. Then I noticed that the fittings that the existing pb tubing had 
connected to it broke. Plus, it hadn't been maintained very well so all the 
hoses have a lot of slime and gunk in them. So a combination of broken things, 
dirty tubing, very strange existing plumbing configuration, etc... just made me 
think it was easier and less complicated to just replace it all. Plus I can set 
it up a bit cleaner and more efficient. I'll probably just continue with where 
it was located and just see how it does. 

On Fri, Sep 9, 2016 at 12:46 PM Dave S via CnC-List  
wrote:
Kevin - What prompted the decision to re-plumb?   if it was the need for a new 
pump, then the new pump's 6' requirement, why not just drop the new pump in in 
place of the old and try it?  If it works, move on...      I replace my pump on 
my 33, didn't even read the manual other than GPH on the box (close enough) and 
it works perfectly, took 30min, and I'm now gleefully tossing boat bucks at 
other stuff.I think you could DIY a fitting relocation on the water tank if you 
wanted too, but why? As stevan points out, getting this stuff done 
professionally is expensive (did my large hoses on the holding tank - more 
critical)  My C$.02...  
Dave


   


Message: 7
 Date: Fri, 09 Sep 2016 15:38:21 +
 From: Kevin Paxton 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Relocate Water Tank Fittings
 Message-ID:
         
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

 My tank is under the port settee as well. However the pump was located
 under the galley sink on the starboard side. So the tank outlets were
 forward, then the tubing ran towards the galley. There was a T after it
 entered that storage area which one way went to the foot pump the other to
 the electrical pump. I don't know the history of the boat, so I don't know
 if it originally started with just the foot pump. I'm the 3rd or 4th owner
 I believe. I've thought about relocating it to where the tank is, however I
 don't want to run a completely separate line to the foot pump.

 I did just read somewhere though that the distance listed for self priming
 pumps is actually only for vertical distance? Is this true? If that's the
 case, then I don't have a problem. Vertically it will only be 6"-12" above
 the height of the outlet on the tank.

 Thanks,
 Kevin

 On Fri, Sep 9, 2016 at 11:24 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm trying to imagine how the pump is 7 or 8 feet from the tank. On my 32
> the 30 gallon tank is located under the port side settee. Tank is located
> aft in this storage space and pump is forward of tank. My boat did not
> originally have a pump at all (just foot pumps). I installed a jabsco just
> forward of the tank where the port is. If your tank is like mine, it can be
> positioned either forward in that storage space, or aft. In it's default
> orientation it's aft with port forward but I don't see why, if I needed to
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Relocate Water Tank Fittings

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Kevin - What prompted the decision to re-plumb?   if it was the need for a
new pump, then the new pump's 6' requirement, why not just drop the new
pump in in place of the old and try it?  If it works, move on...  I
replace my pump on my 33, didn't even read the manual other than GPH on the
box (close enough) and it works perfectly, took 30min, and I'm
now gleefully tossing boat bucks at other stuff.
I think you could DIY a fitting relocation on the water tank if you wanted
too, but why? As stevan points out, getting this stuff done professionally
is expensive (did my large hoses on the holding tank - more critical)  My
C$.02...

Dave







Message: 7
Date: Fri, 09 Sep 2016 15:38:21 +
From: Kevin Paxton 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Relocate Water Tank Fittings
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

My tank is under the port settee as well. However the pump was located
under the galley sink on the starboard side. So the tank outlets were
forward, then the tubing ran towards the galley. There was a T after it
entered that storage area which one way went to the foot pump the other to
the electrical pump. I don't know the history of the boat, so I don't know
if it originally started with just the foot pump. I'm the 3rd or 4th owner
I believe. I've thought about relocating it to where the tank is, however I
don't want to run a completely separate line to the foot pump.

I did just read somewhere though that the distance listed for self priming
pumps is actually only for vertical distance? Is this true? If that's the
case, then I don't have a problem. Vertically it will only be 6"-12" above
the height of the outlet on the tank.

Thanks,
Kevin

On Fri, Sep 9, 2016 at 11:24 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm trying to imagine how the pump is 7 or 8 feet from the tank. On my 32
> the 30 gallon tank is located under the port side settee. Tank is located
> aft in this storage space and pump is forward of tank. My boat did not
> originally have a pump at all (just foot pumps). I installed a jabsco just
> forward of the tank where the port is. If your tank is like mine, it can
be
> positioned either forward in that storage space, or aft. In it's default
> orientation it's aft with port forward but I don't see why, if I needed to
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Re: Stus-List Relocate Water Tank Fittings

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

My tank is under the port settee as well. However the pump was located
under the galley sink on the starboard side. So the tank outlets were
forward, then the tubing ran towards the galley. There was a T after it
entered that storage area which one way went to the foot pump the other to
the electrical pump. I don't know the history of the boat, so I don't know
if it originally started with just the foot pump. I'm the 3rd or 4th owner
I believe. I've thought about relocating it to where the tank is, however I
don't want to run a completely separate line to the foot pump.

I did just read somewhere though that the distance listed for self priming
pumps is actually only for vertical distance? Is this true? If that's the
case, then I don't have a problem. Vertically it will only be 6"-12" above
the height of the outlet on the tank.

Thanks,
Kevin

On Fri, Sep 9, 2016 at 11:24 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm trying to imagine how the pump is 7 or 8 feet from the tank. On my 32
> the 30 gallon tank is located under the port side settee. Tank is located
> aft in this storage space and pump is forward of tank. My boat did not
> originally have a pump at all (just foot pumps). I installed a jabsco just
> forward of the tank where the port is. If your tank is like mine, it can be
> positioned either forward in that storage space, or aft. In it's default
> orientation it's aft with port forward but I don't see why, if I needed to
> do what you are doing, I couldn't just slide the tank forward and locate
> the pump aft. Am I making sense? Again, not sure if your 34 is similar.
>
> Relocating ports on these plastic tanks is expensive work. I know because
> I had to have one of mine replaced.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Relocate Water Tank Fittings

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I'm trying to imagine how the pump is 7 or 8 feet from the tank. On my 32
the 30 gallon tank is located under the port side settee. Tank is located
aft in this storage space and pump is forward of tank. My boat did not
originally have a pump at all (just foot pumps). I installed a jabsco just
forward of the tank where the port is. If your tank is like mine, it can be
positioned either forward in that storage space, or aft. In it's default
orientation it's aft with port forward but I don't see why, if I needed to
do what you are doing, I couldn't just slide the tank forward and locate
the pump aft. Am I making sense? Again, not sure if your 34 is similar.

Relocating ports on these plastic tanks is expensive work. I know because I
had to have one of mine replaced.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List 3QM30 Head Gasket

[Dave via CnC-List]

Michael, 

Can you please provide some detail as to how you were able to "rod out" your 
raw water passages? 

Thank you, 
Dave J 
Saltaire 
C 33 MK3 
Bristol, RI 


- Original Message -

From: "Michael Brannon via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Michael Brannon"  
Sent: Friday, September 9, 2016 9:27:36 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3QM30 Head Gasket 

I had a similar experience on my old 3QM30. Removing the head is not difficult 
and there isn’t much interference on the engine. On my C 36 the difficulty 
was the lack of space to lift the head. To remove it I had to remove the head 
studs from the block and then slide it forward. I went the cheap route and just 
replaced the head gasket. A year later I updated the engine with a new YANMAR. 
I’d get an estimate for both removal and the service work on the head and the 
injectors. If you save much then remove the head yourself and deliver it to a 
machine shop to rework the valves and injectors. Lastly my 3QM30 was raw water 
cooled and many of the water passages were clogged. I was able to rod them out 
without removing the engine. 

Feel free to contact me off list if you have any questions. 

Mike 
VIRGINIA LEE 93295 
C 36 CB 
Virginia Beach, VA 




On Sep 8, 2016, at 8:00 PM, Harry Hallgring via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 

DR, 
Check out simplemachine.com in Providence. 

Harry 
Sent from my iPad 

On Sep 8, 2016, at 2:40 PM, David via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 




So...we are leaving harbor to make our way down to Mystic for the Rendezvous. 
As I usually do I turn around and check the exhaust for water and color. 

Today the color as darkish grey and it looked like oil was coming out as well. 

I do an immediate 180 and go back to the mooring. 

Mechanic is out within the hour and confirms my suspicions. Head gasket. To do 
the job right (injectors, planing head etc) he estimates $2,500 to $3,000. I 
think the price is fair but I wonder if I could do it myself. Anyone have any 
experiences around this? I am a fair mechanic, but I don't want to be 
penny-wise of pound foolish and I have never done anything like this before. 

Thanks in advance... 



David F. Risch 
1981 40-2 
(401) 419-4650 (cell) 





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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Relocate Water Tank Fittings

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Anyone ever relocate the fittings for water tank in a 34? I am about to
take on re-plumbing the fresh water system and my new pump states to put it
within 6' of the tank. with it's current orientation, and where the old
pump was, it would be somewhere around the 7-8' distance from the tank.
Moving the draw line to the other side of the tank would shorten that
considerably. Do they make relocation kits for our tanks? I was going to
leave the vent and fill fittings where they are, just move the supply
fitting going to the pump.

Thanks,
Kevin
'82 34
Japhys Spirit
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Re: Stus-List Head Gasket Thank You!

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

When I am working on my boat I often require an “emergency room nurse”.  I have 
a tendency to bang myself up pretty much every time I work on the engine!

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 09, 2016 11:04 AM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Stus-List Head Gasket Thank You!

All,

Thank you for all your advice, links and encouragement.   I will pull her early 
and give it a go.

The admiral has even offered to play operating room nurse.

This could be fun...[Emoji]

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
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Stus-List Head Gasket Thank You!

[David via CnC-List]

All,

Thank you for all your advice, links and encouragement.   I will pull her early 
and give it a go.  

The admiral has even offered to play operating room nurse.

This could be fun...

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List 3QM30 Head Gasket

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I had a similar experience on my old 3QM30.   Removing the head is not 
difficult and there isn’t much interference on the engine.  On my C 36 the 
difficulty was the lack of space to lift the head.   To remove it I had to 
remove the head studs from the block and then slide it forward.   I went the 
cheap route and just replaced the head gasket.   A year later I updated the 
engine with a new YANMAR.I’d get an estimate for both removal and the 
service work on the head and the injectors.If you save much then remove the 
head yourself and deliver it to a machine shop to rework the valves and 
injectors.Lastly my 3QM30 was raw water cooled and many of the water 
passages were clogged.  I was able to rod them out without removing the engine. 
   

Feel free to contact me off list if you have any questions. 

Mike
VIRGINIA LEE 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA

> On Sep 8, 2016, at 8:00 PM, Harry Hallgring via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> DR,
> Check out simplemachine.com  in Providence. 
> 
> Harry
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Sep 8, 2016, at 2:40 PM, David via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>> So...we are leaving harbor  to make our way down to Mystic for the 
>> Rendezvous.   As I usually do I turn around and check the exhaust for water 
>> and color.
>> 
>> Today the color as darkish grey and it looked like oil was coming out as 
>> well.
>> 
>> I do an immediate 180 and go back to the mooring.
>> 
>> Mechanic is out within the hour and confirms my suspicions. Head gasket.  To 
>> do the job right (injectors, planing head etc) he estimates $2,500 to 
>> $3,000.  I think the price is fair but I wonder if I could do it myself.   
>> Anyone have any experiences around this?   I am a fair mechanic, but I don't 
>> want to be penny-wise of pound foolish and I have never done anything like 
>> this before.
>> 
>> Thanks in advance...
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> David F. Risch
>> 1981 40-2
>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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