[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement
Good Evening, Another week has soggily passed here in the Coast Range of Oregon. The daffodils have yet to bloom but are starting to gain color in their buds. The loggers are starting to build roads and I have seen a few insects flitting about. Hopefully we will not get another freeze or snow storm to kill the insects or the daffodils. After last year's late freeze I did not have that many bloom. But this year there are far more stalks so the energy went into splitting instead of blooming. Pat would be very happy indeed! Twenty meters was very nice at 1600z early in the week and 40 meters was fairly good when I tried it at 0200z later in the week. I hope these fine conditions hold for tomorrow's nets. Tom, N0SS, will not be available to act as NCS from the center of the continent so you'll have to do your best to toss your signal way over to the coast where I am sitting. If anyone else can help you are more than welcome to assist. If I ask you please do not feel shy; it is not that tough to call folks who are more than willing to meet you halfway. Now that the sun is coming back northward we will have longer openings on 20 meters. Then, later, we'll have openings on 40 which will allow folks on the East Coast to work across the continent without a relay. Someday, hopefully not that far in the future, the sunspots will increase. Enjoy 40 and 80 meters while you can because the summer thunderstorms will start their spate of QRN. Lately they've been great fun but soon we'll have our ears full of crashing static. However, many parts of the parched Midwest sorely need the rain. We can just as soon work each other at different times allowing farmers their rain and cattle their forage. Tomorrow: 1) Call by geographic area (East, All) 2) Hail signs (first letter or two of the suffix of your call) 3) NCS help (as well as QSP/QNP relay help) Please join us: Sunday 2300z (Sunday 4 PM PDT) 14050 kHz Monday 0200z (Sunday 7 PM PDT) 7045 kHz Kevin. KD5ONS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re - Tuning Clunks was:K2 compared to others rigs
Hi I agree with the tuning clunks - just got back from 2 weeks as E51PJT having had plenty of pile ups and the clunks were quite irritating. 73 Bob G3PJT, E51PJT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Low power with K2/100
Hi all, It turns out that pin 17 on U2 has an undefined voltage. When NOT selected that band (40/30M) it must be 12V. I measure 7V. The input for this switch is pin 2 at U2 Here I measure 0V (=good) and goes HI (5V) when selected So U1 is working well Will heading tomorrow for a new U2 Peter Don Wilhelm schreef: Peter, The fastest way to determine if you have a problem with the Low Pass Filter in the KPA100 is to check it with an antenna analyzer. Disconnect the small coax to the K2 RF board and terminate it with a 50 ohm (51 is OK) resistor. Power only the base K2 (the ribbon cable must be connected). Then switch the K2 to the band of interest and connect the antenna analyzer to the SO239 antenna jack and sweep the band. If the SWR in the band is about 1:2, then the Low Pass filter for that band is OK. If something is wrong, you will see a much higher SWR. An analysis of the sweep results along with a look at the schematic of the relay contacts should reveal whether you have a bad relay. 73, Don W3FPR Peter wrote: Hi After a few years of good service,I have a problem with the K2 output. I have the K2 with K2/100. The barefoot K2 put full power out on all bands via the bnc connector When I connect the K2/100 with PA off with the menu there will be low power on the ant connector on the higher bands (15/12/10 meter). Since 10/12/15 are combined, I suspect the bandpass filter I tested from TP2 and ANT. out and see NO interruption when change to an other band. All C's, L's and solders look good. So I guess there will a bad relais thats stay ON when I go to 10/12/15M The relais in the BPF are N.O. when not selected, right? If so, I can measure between de N.O. and COMMON to see if the connection goes away Futher more, there is 12V at U2 (pin 14 18,17,16,15,14) when the relais in NOT selected. If selected the needs pin good down to 0V, right? Any other thing to look at? Peter PC2A ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Tuning Clunks was:K2 compared to others rigs
This might be a tough nut to crack in terms of the surgery required. From a quick thus limited investigation into this clunk problem in my K2 I am reasonably certain that the lack of shielding to protect the VCO and Reference, together with the lack of suitable interface filtering , is responsible. I don't think that the BFO is directly involved but I could well be wrong. In my K2 the clunks appear, as you say, in the presence of strong signals, and are found on every band that I have been able to check so far, 40m is perhaps the worst case. What appears to happen is that the strong incoming signals leak into the VCO / Reference area, and when their composite level exceeds some value, which is frequency and leakage dependent, attempt to take over control of the VCO which results in clunks. The frequency separation between clunks is not always 5kHz but does seem to be related to the frequencies of the incoming signals which are attempting to take over. I must stress that I have not had the opportunity yet to undertake an in depth investigation, but I am very aware of the leakage between the front end and the VCO / Reference from earlier work with my K2. Clunks should not be confused with Clicks whose cause(s) are quite different! Here the received individual carrier levels of the BC stations above 7100 kHz can approach -10dbm / -5dbm with an antenna looking East, and there are many of them. It is not uncommon for my K2's LO system to lock onto one of these carriers, and only let go after the receiver has been retuned about 1 kHz. 73, Geoff GM4ESD Darrell Bellerive [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I agree that the synthesizer tuning clunks every 5 kHz in the presence of strong signals needs to be addressed. I know that Elecraft found that muting the receiver to eliminate these noises was worse than the noises, but there must be a solution to at least lessen these tuning clunks. On March 24, 2007 03:25 am, Dave-Boat Guy wrote: A bare-bones K2 is a fine radio, although there are still a couple of unresolved issues, like the tuning clunks you hear on crowded bands, due to the synthesizer. I'm still puzzled why it hasn't been addressed. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Help with KPA 100 Alignment and Installation
I am currently building up a KPA100 amplifier (i.e., a recent vintage unit purchased at the Orlando Hamcation Elecraft booth in February, 2007) and have reached a problem during the alignment and installation phase of this build. My basic K2 is a Rev. B model (i.e., S/N 4751). The first weird thing that happened is in reference to the resistance values shown on page 43 of the KPA100 manual. I have an old but serviceable Fluke Model 29 multimeter that I used for these resistance measurements. I connected the black probe of the multimeter to ground and the red probe to each of the test points noted. In each case, the readings were negative in polarity, but on an absolute scale, met all the resistance values shown in the table. Reversing digital volt meter probe polarity (i.e., the red probe was attached to ground) resulted in resistance values that agreed with the page 43 values (yes - the probes were correct at the meter!!). I then tested several conventional resistors that I had on the workbench as well as during the continuity check of the K2 final transistors when I re-installed the K2 heat sink (i.e., as instructed on page 45 of the KPA100 manual) and all tests with this volt meter were normal. So, do I have a problem with these readings or are they normal? On page 46 of the KPA 100 manual with the amplifier connected to the K2 as instructed, the J3 + lead (red) voltage value was -0.029 V instead of 0 V. I. checked this measurement several times and this small but significant voltage was consistently there. So the question is, is a small negative voltage significant or should it be considered within a rounding value to be 0V as stated in the manual? On page 47 of the KPA 100 manual with the amplifier connected to the K2 as instructed, I hear the 4 MHz crystal oscillator signal very clearly. Depending on the receiver mode (i.e. upper sideband, lower sideband, RATTY, or CW, the signal is just violating (i.e., to 3.996 MHz) or just above the 80 m band edge. Rotating capacitor C27 to move the frequency higher has no effect. So the questions are: How much frequency swing does C27 provide? What is causing this lack of frequency movement? Should I be worried? On page 47 of the KPA 100 manual with the amplifier connected to the K2 as instructed, under the SWR Bridge Null Adjustment (CI), the SWR null trimmer works as advertised, and I can change the SWR reading; however, I get no power out of the amplifier with the K2 output set at 5 W. Initially I was powering the amplifier and the K2 with a freshly charged, 12 V, 7 AH power gel cell battery, but when I saw that the transmit power from the amplifier was nonexistent (i.e., 0.1 W), I switched to powering this set up with a 12 V automotive storage battery reading 12.53 V (note that I was saving my Astron 20 amp switching power supply to power the KPA 100 alone since two power supplies are required during testing). In receive mode, the K2 display read 12.1 V and 0.36 Amps and had previously passed all receiving tests. However, in transmit mode, the K2 flashes a momentary high current signal, and the K2 display reads 10.3 V at 3.98 Amps with no measured power output from the SO239 connector of the amplifier. Furthermore, if the K2 remains in tune mode for longer than 30 seconds, the final transistors heat sink gets fairly warm, and the K2 will either shut down for a few minutes (i.e. the thermal fuse activates) or just reboot. Removing the K2 from the amplifier results in normal operation of the K2. This problem has completely stopped by alignment and testing of the amplifier, and I would appreciate any assistance that you can give me relative to this problem. Thanks in advance for your help. 73 Les Kramer WA3SGZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] GREAT alignment tool
Gang I found this alignment tool and it does a super job of adjusting those caps in the KX1. with a 2mm flat tip and being ceramic it does not detune the circuits. Just a satisfied customer http://www.mtechnologies.com/tools/#align de RC KC5WA/AE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA 100 L15
OK, now I'm confused. I'm currently building the KPA 100. I've just finished soldering the finals. I currently have a blank space at L15. I checked the schematics in my manual (Rev D, 9/25/06) and it shows that L15 is not used. I also don't have any toroids left, and I wrote in all the errata that came with the box when I got it (Jan, 2007). Am I missing something? (namely a toroid). or an errata? I just checked Elecraft's web site and looked at the schematic for Rev E (I know I don't have it, but for comparison purposes) and it shows that L15 is not used. Thanks for any help. Just wanted to clear up my confusion before I got too far. Thanks! Jim, WD9HBC K2 #5757 KX1 #1517 ...First question is - do you have a red or a blue toroid core at the L15 location? If it is red, you should have the Rev C manual and you will have a voltage at the cathode of D13 with no power connected to the KPA100. OTOH, if you have a blue toroid core at L15, you should have the Rev D manual (be certain to download the latest errata sheet from the Elecraft website). If this is your KPA100 level, then you will not measure any voltage on D13 unless the KPA100 power is connected. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA 100 L15
Jim, Sorry about the confusion I caused. I meant to say L16 but my finger slipped. Yes, the board built from the Rev D manual will have no component at L15 (and R12 and C82). You will not have voltage at D13 unless you have connected a power supply to the KPA100. 73, Don W3FPR Soaring Eagles wrote: OK, now I'm confused. I'm currently building the KPA 100. I've just finished soldering the finals. I currently have a blank space at L15. I checked the schematics in my manual (Rev D, 9/25/06) and it shows that L15 is not used. I also don't have any toroids left, and I wrote in all the errata that came with the box when I got it (Jan, 2007). Am I missing something? (namely a toroid). or an errata? I just checked Elecraft's web site and looked at the schematic for Rev E (I know I don't have it, but for comparison purposes) and it shows that L15 is not used. Thanks for any help. Just wanted to clear up my confusion before I got too far. Thanks! Jim, WD9HBC K2 #5757 KX1 #1517 ...First question is - do you have a red or a blue toroid core at the L15 location? If it is red, you should have the Rev C manual and you will have a voltage at the cathode of D13 with no power connected to the KPA100. OTOH, if you have a blue toroid core at L15, you should have the Rev D manual (be certain to download the latest errata sheet from the Elecraft website). If this is your KPA100 level, then you will not measure any voltage on D13 unless the KPA100 power is connected. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] GREAT alignment tool
That's a FB find RC. Thanks. I have a set of ceramic screwdriver alignment tools I got from E.F. Johnson back in the 1980's for aligning their 900 MHz repeater transmitters used in land mobile service. They tools are great but brittle, as you might expect from ceramic. Almost all of my blades are now missing a corner from failing to get them aligned exactly with a screw that was required a bit too much torque. It is true that when the trimmer caps are properly installed in most circuits in Elecraft rigs, a metal screwdriver will not alter the tuning. The orientation is such that the screw is at d-c and signal ground. However, even when the use of a metal screwdriver doesn't change the adjustment, it's nice to poke at a live circuit with a non-metallic tool that can't short or cause other issues! And the ceramic tools are invaluable when even the screw adjustment isn't at ground potential. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Gang I found this alignment tool and it does a super job of adjusting those caps in the KX1. with a 2mm flat tip and being ceramic it does not detune the circuits. Just a satisfied customer http://www.mtechnologies.com/tools/#align de RC KC5WA/AE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] W1
Hi all, I've been working on a prototype enclosure for the W1. See here: http://w8fgu.home.comcast.net/w1encl.html As soon as I gather the feedback from my beta testers and incorporate any necessary changes, I will start the first production run. I haven't settled on a price yet, but should be forthcoming. Feel free to send me any appropriate feedback you feel necessary. Thanks 73, Dave W8FGU -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:elecraft- [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken Kopp Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2007 4:50 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 I'd buy a W1 immediately if it had some sort of housing. Perhaps the intent of the design was a piece of use-it-once- in-awhile and not a day-to-day usage item. I bought an Oak Hills Research WM-2 instead, and I'm totally satisfied with it. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP\ [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] GREAT alignment tool
The plastic versions which have a small blade poking out at one end and recessed at the other are also useful for tweaking circuits working at HF and low - mid VHF, ceramic better for higher frequencies such as 900 MHz that you mention. The recessed blade makes getting proper alignment dead easy and prevents the blade slipping off while tweaking. 73, Geoff GM4ESD Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: That's a FB find RC. Thanks. I have a set of ceramic screwdriver alignment tools I got from E.F. Johnson back in the 1980's for aligning their 900 MHz repeater transmitters used in land mobile service. They tools are great but brittle, as you might expect from ceramic. Almost all of my blades are now missing a corner from failing to get them aligned exactly with a screw that was required a bit too much torque. It is true that when the trimmer caps are properly installed in most circuits in Elecraft rigs, a metal screwdriver will not alter the tuning. The orientation is such that the screw is at d-c and signal ground. However, even when the use of a metal screwdriver doesn't change the adjustment, it's nice to poke at a live circuit with a non-metallic tool that can't short or cause other issues! And the ceramic tools are invaluable when even the screw adjustment isn't at ground potential. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Gang I found this alignment tool and it does a super job of adjusting those caps in the KX1. with a 2mm flat tip and being ceramic it does not detune the circuits. Just a satisfied customer http://www.mtechnologies.com/tools/#align de RC KC5WA/AE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] GREAT alignment tool
Quite right, Geoff, when they fit! I've found that is often not the case, especially in situations like the KX1 where the alignment screw is behind another board that has a small access hole in it. Often the access hole isn't big enough to accommodate the larger-diameter tool or the alignment of the screw adjustment isn't exact, putting it near one edge of the hole. That's where I'm digging for my ceramic tools. But, as you noted, those tools are more robust and the tiny metal 'blade' isn't big enough to detune the circuit. In my experience the worst choice, in terms of potential damage caused by a slip, is a plain metal shaft screwdriver. If I must reach for the screw through other boards or close to other component leads I'll either go for the ceramic tool or wrap some electrical tape around the shaft of a metal screwdriver, leaving only the tip exposed to slip into the slot on the screw. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- The plastic versions which have a small blade poking out at one end and recessed at the other are also useful for tweaking circuits working at HF and low - mid VHF, ceramic better for higher frequencies such as 900 MHz that you mention. The recessed blade makes getting proper alignment dead easy and prevents the blade slipping off while tweaking. 73, Geoff GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] W1
Very slick, Dave. Sign me up when you have it ready. BTW, if you are in the market for a digital wattmeter kit between the W1 and LP-100, I have a new meter kit in prototype called the LP-400. It's styled to match Elecraft equipment, and has excellent accuracy and some of the LP-100 features. I will also be offering free NIST traceable calibration to kit builders as I do with the LP-100. You can check it out on my website. 73, Larry N8LP www.telepostinc.com Dave Van Wallaghen wrote: Hi all, I've been working on a prototype enclosure for the W1. See here: http://w8fgu.home.comcast.net/w1encl.html As soon as I gather the feedback from my beta testers and incorporate any necessary changes, I will start the first production run. I haven't settled on a price yet, but should be forthcoming. Feel free to send me any appropriate feedback you feel necessary. Thanks 73, Dave W8FGU -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:elecraft- [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken Kopp Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2007 4:50 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 I'd buy a W1 immediately if it had some sort of housing. Perhaps the intent of the design was a piece of use-it-once- in-awhile and not a day-to-day usage item. I bought an Oak Hills Research WM-2 instead, and I'm totally satisfied with it. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP\ [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Low Power on 10 Meters
Folks, I'm having a real struggle getting 6 to 7 WATTS on 28 Mhz while all other all other bands come up with a number well in excess of 10 Watts. Has anyone experienced this problem and was able to solve it? I'm suspecting low pass filters that are not coordinated to the 10 Meters Caps, if you can get my drift. I can't come up with a reason for this. In fact, it may make 10 Meters useless for some modes. Help? Bill NA7Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Low Power on 10 Meters
Bill, The most common cause of low output on 10 meters is T2 - be certain it is wound exactly like the illustration in the manual (except for the number of turns in the illustrations which may or may not be correct). The second thing is T4 - be certain it is wound as instructed in the manual. Thirdly, check the low pass filter for the correct number of turns on the toroids and check the capacitors. On the 10 meter band, spread the turns of the low pass filter inductors as much as you possibly can. 73, Don W3FPR William M. Spaulding, SR wrote: Folks, I'm having a real struggle getting 6 to 7 WATTS on 28 Mhz while all other all other bands come up with a number well in excess of 10 Watts. Has anyone experienced this problem and was able to solve it? I'm suspecting low pass filters that are not coordinated to the 10 Meters Caps, if you can get my drift. I can't come up with a reason for this. In fact, it may make 10 Meters useless for some modes. Help? Bill NA7Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Low Power on 10 Meters
If all else is well, then consider how you are measuring it. As Don has pointed out before, the internal power meter expects a 50 ohm load. After trying several configuration that showed 6w on 10m, I checked the dummy loads. All three were showing 1.2 swr with an analyzer. I then connected to my MFJ-949E with internal dummy load, and I connected so that the manual controls were in line, and adjusted for minimum SWR while hitting the tune button. When I did this and used the internal power meter, it showed 12w. None of my measurement setups were perfect, I was mainly looking at the spread of the readings. But when I used the setup described above, all my readings, on all bands, were above 12w. When read with external power meters, they fluctuated quite a bit more. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 William M. Spaulding, SR wrote: Folks, I'm having a real struggle getting 6 to 7 WATTS on 28 Mhz while all other all other bands come up with a number well in excess of 10 Watts. Has anyone experienced this problem and was able to solve it? I'm suspecting low pass filters that are not coordinated to the 10 Meters Caps, if you can get my drift. I can't come up with a reason for this. In fact, it may make 10 Meters useless for some modes. Help? Bill NA7Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Resistor question...
Just started on my K2, SN#6048...and am new at this process. I seem to have smoked the resistor r20 in the control board, as I installed it...a 2.7 ohm (Red-Violet-Gold) resistor which now reads .001 on the DMM(I think too much heat for too long as I attempted to reposition it after it slid away from the board a bit.) I planned on getting a replacement locally...but am uncertain if it's a 1/4 watt or 1/2 watt...and the parts list doesn't indicate...but a 1/2 watt one looks too large. So...any suggestions? David King KE7EKA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] GREAT alignment tool
Whatever happened to plastic knitting needles that we would shape? David G3UNA - Original Message - From: Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 5:13 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] GREAT alignment tool The plastic versions which have a small blade poking out at one end and recessed at the other are also useful for tweaking circuits working at HF and low - mid VHF, ceramic better for higher frequencies such as 900 MHz that you mention. The recessed blade makes getting proper alignment dead easy and prevents the blade slipping off while tweaking. 73, Geoff GM4ESD Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: That's a FB find RC. Thanks. I have a set of ceramic screwdriver alignment tools I got from E.F. Johnson back in the 1980's for aligning their 900 MHz repeater transmitters used in land mobile service. They tools are great but brittle, as you might expect from ceramic. Almost all of my blades are now missing a corner from failing to get them aligned exactly with a screw that was required a bit too much torque. It is true that when the trimmer caps are properly installed in most circuits in Elecraft rigs, a metal screwdriver will not alter the tuning. The orientation is such that the screw is at d-c and signal ground. However, even when the use of a metal screwdriver doesn't change the adjustment, it's nice to poke at a live circuit with a non-metallic tool that can't short or cause other issues! And the ceramic tools are invaluable when even the screw adjustment isn't at ground potential. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Gang I found this alignment tool and it does a super job of adjusting those caps in the KX1. with a 2mm flat tip and being ceramic it does not detune the circuits. Just a satisfied customer http://www.mtechnologies.com/tools/#align de RC KC5WA/AE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Resistor question...
David, Most all the resistors in the K2 (including R20) are 1/4 watt. The only 1/2 watt resistors on the RF Board are R50 and R58. To the best of my knowledge, all resistors shown in the schematic that are NOT 1/4 watt are designated with the power rating. In most cases, a 1/2 watt can be used as a replacement for a 1/4 watt resistor, but the problem is in the physical mounting space - if you can get it to fit all will be well. 73, Don W3FPR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Just started on my K2, SN#6048...and am new at this process. I seem to have smoked the resistor r20 in the control board, as I installed it...a 2.7 ohm (Red-Violet-Gold) resistor which now reads .001 on the DMM(I think too much heat for too long as I attempted to reposition it after it slid away from the board a bit.) I planned on getting a replacement locally...but am uncertain if it's a 1/4 watt or 1/2 watt...and the parts list doesn't indicate...but a 1/2 watt one looks too large. So...any suggestions? David King KE7EKA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] GREAT alignment tool
In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], David Cutter [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes Whatever happened to plastic knitting needles that we would shape? David G3UNA They are now made of aluminium (aluminum), David, but even if you could get plastic ones they would certainly not be strong enough for the KX1 trimmers. 73 de David G4DMP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 IF Amp Alignment Question/Problem
Did you have anything connected to the antenna jack when you did that? I cannot hear the birdie at 7.000 with any sort of antenna connected to the K2. Even with the antenna off it's easy to miss unless I have the preamp On! Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 3:23 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 IF Amp Alignment Question/Problem Hello all, Finally got the K2 to the point when I am ready to do the IF Amplifier Alignment procedure. All has checked out well so far, BUT, I can not hear the signal at 7.000 MHz that is referenced in the manual. Nada, nothing. I scanned up and down the band, from 6990 - 7010 and can't hear it at all. So following the manual's suggestion, I did the 40 meter band pass alignment, which went quite well. I was able to hear CW signal and International broadcast stations with an outside antenna. So, it looks like I may have a problem here, wondering if it is a RF gain issue, or other problem. How strong is this signal anyway, I've done my best to carefully tune, and feel if it was there, I would have heard it. Suggestions, thoughts, things to test? I do appreciate your input! 73 Bruce W1UJR www.w1ujr.net ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] GREAT alignment tool
Please don't misunderstand me, I like to use my ceramic tools as well. 73, Geoff GM4ESD - Original Message - From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED] Quite right, Geoff, when they fit! I've found that is often not the case, especially in situations like the KX1 where the alignment screw is behind another board that has a small access hole in it. Often the access hole isn't big enough to accommodate the larger-diameter tool or the alignment of the screw adjustment isn't exact, putting it near one edge of the hole. That's where I'm digging for my ceramic tools. snip ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 10 Meter power
Thanks to Don and David for their responses. Once I spread the turns on L21 and L22 I noted a couple of dB of gain. Then I got really serious with my measurements using my 3585. The '85 said something just over 40 dBm - 10 watts. So I quit fiddling and am ready to work on the K2 auto-tuner. Thanks for the pointers, guys, Bill NA7Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] W1 - customised enclosure
Hi Dave, I am interested in it, please keep me advised of the price and availability in due course. 73 Johnny Siu VR2XMC From: Dave Van Wallaghen [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] W1 Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2007 11:47:42 -0400 Hi all, I've been working on a prototype enclosure for the W1. See here: http://w8fgu.home.comcast.net/w1encl.html As soon as I gather the feedback from my beta testers and incorporate any necessary changes, I will start the first production run. I haven't settled on a price yet, but should be forthcoming. Feel free to send me any appropriate feedback you feel necessary. Thanks 73, Dave W8FGU _ Hotmail Extra Storage讓你獲得10MB 額外儲存空間，請即申請！ http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=zh-hk ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] No Sidetone with Firmware Upgrade - K2
In process of upgrading K2 #2117. Installed BFO and PLL thermal upgrade kits. All was well. Then I put in the new firmware. It came up ok with INFO 201 and then Elecraft. Following instructions I did the EDIT ST L. As I don't have anything but SSB and 160 currently installed, I realize I need the U6-25 setting. When I hit display it shows one of these options, and when I hit display it toggles to the other option. But neither produces a sidetone. I tried exiting when U6-25 is displayed, still no sidetone. I am not convinced I know how to properly set it for U6-25? It just calibrated the PLL OK as I was typing this, but not fun to not have a sidetone. Firmware was 2.01F - now its 2.04P. I also updated the IOC firmware on the RF board to 1.09. Please and thanks for help. 73, curt Looking for earth-friendly autos? Browse Top Cars by Green Rating at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center. http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] No Sidetone with Firmware Upgrade - K2
I have heard of this being a problem. They call it a fat finger fowl up. Often hear of folks change something in the firmware by mistake when they do not mean to. I realize this doesn't necessarily apply, but at least it is something to check. Good luck. http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2006-08/msg00751.html David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 Curt Milton wrote: In process of upgrading K2 #2117. Installed BFO and PLL thermal upgrade kits. All was well. Then I put in the new firmware. It came up ok with INFO 201 and then Elecraft. Following instructions I did the EDIT ST L. As I don't have anything but SSB and 160 currently installed, I realize I need the U6-25 setting. When I hit display it shows one of these options, and when I hit display it toggles to the other option. But neither produces a sidetone. I tried exiting when U6-25 is displayed, still no sidetone. I am not convinced I know how to properly set it for U6-25? It just calibrated the PLL OK as I was typing this, but not fun to not have a sidetone. Firmware was 2.01F - now its 2.04P. I also updated the IOC firmware on the RF board to 1.09. Please and thanks for help. 73, curt Looking for earth-friendly autos? Browse Top Cars by Green Rating at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center. http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Low Power on 10 Meters
Dave, That is an excellent method of achieving a 1:1 SWR with an unknown (or questionable) dummy load. Thanks for the reminder. Just be aware that the SWR=1 condition is frequency sensitive - the tuner must be retuned if the frequency or band is changed. 73, Don W3FPR David Wilburn wrote: If all else is well, then consider how you are measuring it. As Don has pointed out before, the internal power meter expects a 50 ohm load. After trying several configuration that showed 6w on 10m, I checked the dummy loads. All three were showing 1.2 swr with an analyzer. I then connected to my MFJ-949E with internal dummy load, and I connected so that the manual controls were in line, and adjusted for minimum SWR while hitting the tune button. When I did this and used the internal power meter, it showed 12w. None of my measurement setups were perfect, I was mainly looking at the spread of the readings. But when I used the setup described above, all my readings, on all bands, were above 12w. When read with external power meters, they fluctuated quite a bit more. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 William M. Spaulding, SR wrote: Folks, I'm having a real struggle getting 6 to 7 WATTS on 28 Mhz while all other all other bands come up with a number well in excess of 10 Watts. Has anyone experienced this problem and was able to solve it? I'm suspecting low pass filters that are not coordinated to the 10 Meters Caps, if you can get my drift. I can't come up with a reason for this. In fact, it may make 10 Meters useless for some modes. Help? Bill NA7Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Help with KPA 100 Alignment and Installation
Folks, I solved the problem with the SWR Bridge null adjustment (CI) by reflowing a bunch of solder joints (i.e., Don's usual suggestion) around T1, R21 and R22. However, now I have a new problem - I am drawing to much power in the transmit tests of on pg 50 of the KPA 100 manual. My metered Astron switching power supply shows 25 Amps on key down (2-3 sec.) at 100 watts. Calculating the amperage across R7 shows 21 Amps - still to much. Q1 seems to get preferencially hot compared to Q2 during the 2-3 sec.key down. The signal sounds great in a remote receiver. Changing the values of R26 and R27 doesn't seem to effect the power reading. I probed voltages and the deviating voltages are shown below: Q1 RX - All OK Q! TX - B=0.532V and C= 13.26 V Note - Voltage input at K2 Display is 14.2 VDC Q2 RX - All OK Q2 TX - B=0.523 V and C= 13.28 V Q3 RX - All OK Q3 TX - B= 0.543 V Q4 RX - All OK Q4 TX - C=14.23 V Q5 RX - All OK Q5 TX - B = 2.8 V and C=0 V Any ideas on what to do next would be appreciated. 73, Les WA3SGZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Low Power on 10 Meters
That is absolutely right Don. I was playing with it several different ways, and using the tune button and the manual tuner you could really see it jump when you got it dialed in. The output of the power meter on the K2 was considerably more sensitive than the meter on the tuner, and was able to peak the setting looking at that. Worked great. Once I had seen your post, then tried that, and saw the numbers that I was getting, I was confident I had nothing to worry about. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 Don Wilhelm wrote: Dave, That is an excellent method of achieving a 1:1 SWR with an unknown (or questionable) dummy load. Thanks for the reminder. Just be aware that the SWR=1 condition is frequency sensitive - the tuner must be retuned if the frequency or band is changed. 73, Don W3FPR David Wilburn wrote: If all else is well, then consider how you are measuring it. As Don has pointed out before, the internal power meter expects a 50 ohm load. After trying several configuration that showed 6w on 10m, I checked the dummy loads. All three were showing 1.2 swr with an analyzer. I then connected to my MFJ-949E with internal dummy load, and I connected so that the manual controls were in line, and adjusted for minimum SWR while hitting the tune button. When I did this and used the internal power meter, it showed 12w. None of my measurement setups were perfect, I was mainly looking at the spread of the readings. But when I used the setup described above, all my readings, on all bands, were above 12w. When read with external power meters, they fluctuated quite a bit more. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 William M. Spaulding, SR wrote: Folks, I'm having a real struggle getting 6 to 7 WATTS on 28 Mhz while all other all other bands come up with a number well in excess of 10 Watts. Has anyone experienced this problem and was able to solve it? I'm suspecting low pass filters that are not coordinated to the 10 Meters Caps, if you can get my drift. I can't come up with a reason for this. In fact, it may make 10 Meters useless for some modes. Help? Bill NA7Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Help with KPA 100 Alignment and Installation
Les, The most usual reason for excessive current is the Low pass filters - check the toroids for an extra turn - count the number of times the wire passes through the center of the core. Also carefully check the calibration of the wattmeter forward power pot. Also check the bias setting again, and re-check the number of turns on the T1 and T2 transformers. 73, Don W3FPR Les and Lynn wrote: Folks, I solved the problem with the SWR Bridge null adjustment (CI) by reflowing a bunch of solder joints (i.e., Don's usual suggestion) around T1, R21 and R22. However, now I have a new problem - I am drawing to much power in the transmit tests of on pg 50 of the KPA 100 manual. My metered Astron switching power supply shows 25 Amps on key down (2-3 sec.) at 100 watts. Calculating the amperage across R7 shows 21 Amps - still to much. Q1 seems to get preferencially hot compared to Q2 during the 2-3 sec.key down. The signal sounds great in a remote receiver. Changing the values of R26 and R27 doesn't seem to effect the power reading. I probed voltages and the deviating voltages are shown below: Q1 RX - All OK Q! TX - B=0.532V and C= 13.26 V Note - Voltage input at K2 Display is 14.2 VDC Q2 RX - All OK Q2 TX - B=0.523 V and C= 13.28 V Q3 RX - All OK Q3 TX - B= 0.543 V Q4 RX - All OK Q4 TX - C=14.23 V Q5 RX - All OK Q5 TX - B = 2.8 V and C=0 V Any ideas on what to do next would be appreciated. 73, Les WA3SGZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for March 25th 26th, 2007
Good Evening, Forty meters was much more RF friendly than 20 meters today. I received a number of reports of prospective QNIs going begging since there was either no one there or they could not hear the NCS. In this case there was only one NCS: me, way out in Oregon. I read on Space Weather that we are entering a solar stream but not quite sure when that started. Twenty meters had a background hiss which was fairly strong. Forty meters was transmitting a spring thunderstorm quite nicely. Reports of QSB were also wide spread. But, this is why we get on the air. If we did not at least try we would never know what works and what does not. To all the folks thanking me for running the net you are very welcome. I get a big kick out of hearing all of you and digging as deep as I can hear to put you in the log. After two nets on Sunday I buzz for a few days with the happy glow it gives me. Pat would chuckle at me when I told her of all the folks from here and there who talked with me. She made sure I had the net times set aside so I could continue. Now that she is gone I keep running the nets both for her and for me. I think they are a good thing. Because of them I have met a great many very nice people. On to the lists = On 14050 kHz at 2300z: KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798 K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422 K3JHT - John - PA - ? K4GT - Jim - GA - K2 - 2015 NN8K - Sonny - WV - K1 - 380 N3AO - Carter - VA - K2 - 678 On 7045.50 kHz at 0159z: W6ZH - Pete - CA - KX1 - 85 K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422 QNI #45!!! VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968 KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798 N0FU - Bill - CA - Kenwood K4GT - Jim - GA - K2 - 2015 AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993 QNI #95 W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031 W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767 K0RS - Larry - CO - K2 - 2072 N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866 W1BPJ - Terry - CO - K1 - 1800 WA3UCR - Bill - PA - K2 - 4716 As ever, if there are any fills or corrections you would like made in these records please email me and I will fix the database. I hope you all have a good week this week and have some nice spring weather. I am looking forward to at least one day of sun but cannot plan on much more than that given Oregon's capricious weather. I think the daffodils may just open this week if the temperatures stay in the 50s. We shall see. Thank you, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Station 5th Class) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
