Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 as a sideswiper?

2016-05-09 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,

Certainly, but it is a permanent change (until changed back) and 
requires soldering.
Leave the wire to the dot side board (the one connected to the tip of 
the plug - use your ohmmeter) connected, but remove the wire to the dash 
side (goes to the ring).

Then wire the dot side and dash side boards together.

Set the INP menu to HND and swipe away.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/9/2016 2:53 PM, John Flynn wrote:

Good Day Everyone,

Is it possible to re-jigger the KXPD1 as a sideswiper (not a straight key)?




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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 and Loctite 242

2011-02-13 Thread Ian White GM3SEK
Moe wrote:
>Being a connoisseur of the various grades of Loctite, frustration with 
>the loosening of the KXPD1 thumbscrew tempts me to use a drop of #242, 
>know as, and the color of, "blue."  This is the "removable" grade. My 
>question is, has anyone here (especially W3FPR) used this successfully?

The 'blue' grades of Loctite are designed to allow removal with hand 
tools, and 242/243 is superb for antennas and rotators. However, these 
grades may be too strong for use with very small screws.

Maybe you could try one of the 'pink' grades of Loctite which are 
specifically designed for small instrument screws and clock repairs.


-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 and Loctite 242

2011-02-12 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Moe,

I would shudder to think of locktite of any variety being used on the 
KXPD1 thumbscrew - you just might want to remove it someday.  Removable 
is just not that much "removable" - it works for things that need 
wrenches to remove, but the thumbscrew is a small diameter.
Newer KXPD1s come with an internal toothed lockwasher that can be 
optionally used instead of the normal flat lockwasher, so you might want 
to give that a try instead - use a #6 lockwasher, and beef it down with 
your strongest fingers, it should hold.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/12/2011 8:16 PM, Moe wrote:
> Being a connoisseur of the various grades of Loctite, frustration with the
> loosening of the KXPD1 thumbscrew tempts me to use a drop of #242, know as,
> and the color of, "blue."  This is the "removable" grade.  My question is,
> has anyone here (especially W3FPR) used this successfully?
>
> 73 de Moe
> AB8XA
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 Paddle Action

2009-10-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Steve,

The KXPD1 can be very sensitive.  The action will feel stiff if you are 
in the habit of applying pressure to the paddles with your thumb and 
finger well up onto the cover pads.  If you make contact near the outer 
ends of the finger pads, the action can be very sensitive.  The outward 
curving springs are usually just fine, and in many cases are not curved 
out enough and make contact with no pressure at all on the pads.

If you are already pressing the paddles near the outer ends, then yes, 
you can try bending the silver wires up a bit - do only a tiny bit at a 
time until you get it right for you.  You can always bend the wires back 
down if you go too far.

73,
Don W3FPR

Steven Pituch wrote:
> Hi All,
> I wonder if I made an assembly error when putting together my KXPD1 paddle.
> Its action is very stiff.  I need to hold the radio to be able to apply
> enough pressure to make the dots and dashes.  If you look at this SQ5M video
> that I found on YouTube the action is very light.
> http://tinyurl.com/yac6c52
>
> I would love to have my paddle action just as light as SQ5M's.  Any
> suggestions?  The springs are curved outwards and appear to be very stiff.
> I notice that Figure 6 in the manaul shows a flat spring.  Could this be the
> reason the action is stiffer?  I am hesitant to pull up the silver wires a
> bit until I get some feedback from other users.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve Pituch, W2MY
>   
>
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RE: [Elecraft] KXPD1 key bail clamp FS

2008-01-12 Thread AB7R
The clamp is sold.  Thanks!

Greg


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of AB7R
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 12:56 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KXPD1 key bail clamp FS


I have a bail clamp for the KXPD1 sitting here bored with nothing to do.  :)

If anyone would like it for $30 please let me know.  The Elecraft item
number is KXPD1-K2.

Thanks
Greg
AB7R

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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 screw

2006-06-19 Thread Mike WA8BXN
 
What I did was to put a couple small drops "Liquid Electrical Tape" on the
paddles around the screw on the side that goes against the KX1 case and
after it dried well there was no more slipping when attached. 
 
73 - Mike WA8BXN 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 screw

2006-06-17 Thread N2EY
In a message dated 6/17/06 8:09:53 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> How many hams have a 6-32 die in their tool kit 

Me!

also 4-40 and 8-32

Thread-a-nut-before-you-cut works well, though.

73 de Jim, N2EY
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 screw

2006-06-17 Thread John Young

Jeremiah McCarthy wrote:

How many hams have a 6-32 die in their tool kit to use on the paddle 
screw?...And, if they did have one, it would not be necessary to thread it onto 
the screw beforehand...

Jerry, wa2dkg


I for one have dies and taps from 4-40 to at least 3/8-24 plus a few 
metrics.  Given enough projects over enough years, a tool box will grow,

until it contains every tool, except the one you need for todays project.

The other side of my garage is just the same but with parts.

This repeats until we reach the status of SK.

73 and happy father's day, take the time to enjoy the best part of our 
lives.


John  WA8KNE

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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1

2006-06-15 Thread FISCHER,GREG
Alsoif you have a nut that you can thread onto the 
screw before filing, when you back it off after the filing 
is done it will help restore the threads on the screw.


73
Greg
AB7R


On Thu, 15 Jun 2006 10:00:12 -0500
 "Jeremiah McCarthy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I have built about 10 KX1's and the retaining screw for 
the paddle DOES protrude through the anchor nut and in 
some cases strikes the circuit board, preventing the 
paddle from being pulled up tight...Not everyone who buys 
a KX1 also buys the paddle, so it might not be 
encountered a lot, but I have had 2 of them so far where 
this was a problem...


There are 3 ways to fix it...(1) file the notch in the 
circuit board deeper, but this is hairy because it is 
very close to a circuit trace, (2) make up a thin plastic 
shim and place it between the paddle body and the KX1 
case, or, (3) grind off the end of the knurled screw 
about 1/32"...IMHO, number 3 is the best option, but it 
must be done carefully because it will burr the end of 
the threads making it difficult to start the screw into 
the anchor nut...To overcome that, CAREFULLY grind or 
file a 45 degree bevel all the way around on the end of 
the screw, as if you were going to bring it to a point, 
but stopping far short of that...It will start threading 
into the anchor nut easily now...


Jerry, wa2dkg


I must have done something wrong... When I plug the kxbd1 
in it wiggles

too much..<

Should I have screwed the knerled nut on the key jack? 
The jack on my kx-1

is flush with the upper conver so the nut wont screw on.
Suggestions to solve the case of the wiggling KXBD1<
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RE: [Elecraft] KXPD1 cold WX operation?

2006-03-12 Thread EricJ
I can't help directly since a cold day outside here would be anything below
room temperature.

But try Paul, W0RW, the pedestrian mobile expert. He's out in the CO cold at
night in winter. If it is a chronic problem, I bet he has seen it and solved
it.

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Post the solution if you find one.

Eric
KE6US
www.ke6us.com 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n0tu/Steve
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 6:24 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KXPD1 cold WX operation?


Has anyone come up with a solution for their KXPD1 for cold wx operation? Or
a modification not using the rubber pads?
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 Question

2006-01-24 Thread Leigh L. Klotz, Jr.

Paul,
The KXPD1 is a bit pricier than the Whiterook, but the ATU and the 
paddle go together to make a rig that really does work with nothing 
else, just a couple of short wires.
I started out without either, but realized that Elecraft was right, and 
making it self-contained is a big deal.


The good news is that you can add one later!

Another good idea from Wayne N6KR is the waist pack.  Mine is quite full 
(http://wa5znu.org/log/2005/03/kx1-bag.html) and the KXPD1 fits nicely.


73,
Leigh / WA5ZNU

Paul Huff wrote:

Hello everybody,

I would be very interested in hearing your opinions about the KXPD1 Plug-in
Keyer Paddle for the KX1.  ... I usually hold [whiterook] in my lap at about a 
45
degree angle with my left hand and work it with my right.

  

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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 Question

2006-01-24 Thread Paul Gates, KD3JF
My experience with the KX1 paddle is that it is a pain It will start out 
working good and the more I use it on a QSO it finally goes crazy and I cannot 
even send my own call letters. My call is KD3JF and after I use it a while on a 
QSO when I get to send my call I can never make the "D" for it always sends a 
"N." Now recently I can send pretty good with it as long as I am sending at 
least 20 WPM
 
 
Paul Gates, KD3JF 
Elecraft Kits:
K1 #0231
KX1 #1186
XG1: Signal Generator 


- Original Message 
From: Alexandra Carter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Ron D'Eau Claire <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 5:42:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 Question


I can speak up on this, it's a VERY NICE little paddle! When you build 
it you'll see how it works, and there's some adjustability but it's 
difficult to explain, just get one and see. You can take this paddle 
and mount it to a stand with a little stereo jack and a threaded hole 
to accept the retaining screw, not hard to homebrew and that enables 
you to use it with any rig. I made one of wood and showed it to Wayne 
Burdick, he thought it was neat and others have made one or two of 
their own design, Elecraft may come out with a stand for that little 
paddle, sometime. I'm just starting a woodwork class myself and may 
crank out some stands some time soon, I'll keep ppl posted.

DEFINATELY get one of these paddles with your KX1, to me it's part of 
what the KX1 is all about, a little spy radio with a little spy (and 
amazingly good) paddle. 73 de Alex NS6Y.

> Paul, N8XMS wrote:
>
> I would be very interested in hearing your opinions about the KXPD1 
> Plug-in
> Keyer Paddle for the KX1.  How does it feel?  Is it adjustable?  Is it 
> worth
> the price?  etc.  I'm trying to decide if I want to include one when I 
> order
> a KX1.
>
> I've been using a Whiterook Products MK-64 mini keyer/paddle for a few 
> years
> now for portable QRP work.  It's light-weight and not adjustable, but 
> I've
> gotten used to it and generally like it.  I usually hold it in my lap 
> at
> about a 45 degree angle with my left hand and work it with my right.
>
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 Question

2006-01-24 Thread Alexandra Carter
I can speak up on this, it's a VERY NICE little paddle! When you build 
it you'll see how it works, and there's some adjustability but it's 
difficult to explain, just get one and see. You can take this paddle 
and mount it to a stand with a little stereo jack and a threaded hole 
to accept the retaining screw, not hard to homebrew and that enables 
you to use it with any rig. I made one of wood and showed it to Wayne 
Burdick, he thought it was neat and others have made one or two of 
their own design, Elecraft may come out with a stand for that little 
paddle, sometime. I'm just starting a woodwork class myself and may 
crank out some stands some time soon, I'll keep ppl posted.


DEFINATELY get one of these paddles with your KX1, to me it's part of 
what the KX1 is all about, a little spy radio with a little spy (and 
amazingly good) paddle. 73 de Alex NS6Y.



Paul, N8XMS wrote:

I would be very interested in hearing your opinions about the KXPD1 
Plug-in
Keyer Paddle for the KX1.  How does it feel?  Is it adjustable?  Is it 
worth
the price?  etc.  I'm trying to decide if I want to include one when I 
order

a KX1.

I've been using a Whiterook Products MK-64 mini keyer/paddle for a few 
years
now for portable QRP work.  It's light-weight and not adjustable, but 
I've
gotten used to it and generally like it.  I usually hold it in my lap 
at

about a 45 degree angle with my left hand and work it with my right.




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RE: [Elecraft] KXPD1 Question

2006-01-24 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Paul, N8XMS wrote:

I would be very interested in hearing your opinions about the KXPD1 Plug-in
Keyer Paddle for the KX1.  How does it feel?  Is it adjustable?  Is it worth
the price?  etc.  I'm trying to decide if I want to include one when I order
a KX1.

I've been using a Whiterook Products MK-64 mini keyer/paddle for a few years
now for portable QRP work.  It's light-weight and not adjustable, but I've
gotten used to it and generally like it.  I usually hold it in my lap at
about a 45 degree angle with my left hand and work it with my right.



It feels fine. It is not adjustable. It works great for me. But then I've
met very few paddles or keys over the years that I didn't like one way or
another. I'm just lucky, I guess. I don't need to spend big bucks on a key
or paddles in order to enjoy CW.

But then I consider 30 wpm QRQ, and almost all of my QSO's are at between 15
and 25 wpm.

Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] kxpd1

2005-11-28 Thread Thom R LaCosta

On Mon, 28 Nov 2005, Bob Nielsen wrote:

A Brown Brothers paddle isn't really comparable to a Bencher (it's much 
better IMHO, and feels almost as good as my Begali Simplex).


Wow...I have two Brown Brothersthe paddle and the paddle/key combo...
Love how they work...and nice to know that they are comparable to the
high price spread.

73,Thom-k3hrn
www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,
Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel
Elecraft Owners Database
www.tlchost.net/hosting/  ***  Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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Re: [Elecraft] kxpd1

2005-11-28 Thread Bob Nielsen
A Brown Brothers paddle isn't really comparable to a Bencher (it's  
much better IMHO, and feels almost as good as my Begali Simplex).


I've been concerned about the same thing, but maybe I'll give the  
KXPD1 a try.  At least it is a lot lighter than any of my other keys  
(except the White Rook, which is more like a toy).


73,
Bob N7XY

On Nov 28, 2005, at 6:09 PM, Chuck Guenther wrote:


Hi, Tom

My KX1 is brand new.  I didn't know if I'd like the KXPD1 either,  
but I decided to give it a try.  My usual paddle is an old Brown  
Bros. iambic-- comparable to the Bencher.  I use single lever  
techniques (never quite got the hang of the "squeeze" techniques).


As I was assembling the KXPD1, I thought I was going to hate it.   
It gives nothing back in terms of touch.  Yet, when put it on the  
air, I can send very well with it using the iambic mode B setting.   
That's the proof for me.  I'm happy with it!



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RE: [Elecraft] kxpd1

2005-11-28 Thread Jim Sheldon
Tom,
I've been working hamfests around here, showing off my K2 and having lots of
fun.  I asked the guys at Elecraft to find me someone with a KX1 to help me
out as I was getting a lot of questions about it.  Wayne talked me into
getting one myself, and when I ordered it, I said I wasn't going to get that
crazy paddle as I liked my own homebrew paddles better.  He threw it in
anyway, and warned me that "It would grow on me".  I built it, I tried it,
and I found that for some strange reason I like it.  It has a feel that's
totally different than any other paddles I've ever used, but it took all of
30 seconds to get used to it.  The last hamfest I attended was the first one
I took the KX1 to.  It was well received by everyone, and everyone that
handled it was amazed at how easy the "Funny Looking Paddle" was to operate
with.  All I have to say about the KXPD1 is "Try it, you'll like it."

72/73
Jim - W0EB

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of tom
> Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 7:12 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] kxpd1
> 
> 
> hello to all, a general question.. considering the kx1 with 
> the kxpd1. Not sure if the paddles will be to my liking. I am 
> a long time Bencher paddle fan. If anyone can give me any 
> thoughts on what I might expect by comparision?thanks 
> for reading and responding  73
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RE: [Elecraft] kxpd1

2005-11-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
Tom,

I am strictly a 'single lever paddle' person - in fact I have trouble with
most dual lever paddles --- but the KXPD1 is quite easy for me to use.  I
really don't know why, but it just feels 'natural' to me.  I don't own one
myself, but have built several for others and found it to be a pleasant
paddle to operate.  I may buy one of my own even though I likely will not
own a KX1 - I will have to create something to mount it on.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-

>
> hello to all, a general question.. considering the kx1 with the
> kxpd1. Not sure if the paddles will be to my liking. I am a long
> time Bencher paddle fan. If anyone can give me any thoughts on
> what I might expect by comparision?thanks for reading and
> responding  73

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Re: [Elecraft] kxpd1

2005-11-28 Thread Fred Jensen
I find the KXPD1 to be just fine.  For a lot of rag chewing, I prefer my 
Benchers, but that really isn't what goes on (for me at least) with the 
KX1.  I tend to make QRP QSO's, maybe 3 or 4 exchanges, or do some QRP 
contesting like the Spartan or FOBB.  The KXPD1 doesn't offer much 
tactile feedback, but it is sure convenient and a lot lighter than the 
Bencher.  I find I can get some adjustment in the feel by sliding the 
boots in and out a little.


YMMV,

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw

tom wrote:

hello to all, a general question.. considering the kx1 with the

> kxpd1. Not sure if the paddles will be to my liking. I am a long
> time Bencher paddle fan. If anyone can give me any thoughts on
> what I might expect by comparision?


thanks for reading and responding  73

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re:[Elecraft] kxpd1

2005-11-28 Thread Chuck Guenther
Hi, Tom

My KX1 is brand new.  I didn't know if I'd like the KXPD1 either, but I decided 
to give it a try.  My usual paddle is an old Brown Bros. iambic-- comparable to 
the Bencher.  I use single lever techniques (never quite got the hang of the 
"squeeze" techniques).  

As I was assembling the KXPD1, I thought I was going to hate it.  It gives 
nothing back in terms of touch.  Yet, when put it on the air, I can send very 
well with it using the iambic mode B setting.  That's the proof for me.  I'm 
happy with it!

73, 

Chuck  NI0C
KX1 s/n 1287
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1

2005-09-09 Thread Fred Jensen



Mine has the same problem. I discovered the headphones were clogged by a
large dense hairy object between the two earphones. Unfortunately, it can't
be fixed.


Odd, all of my headphones exhibit that same problem ... but the large 
dense object is not hairy.


Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw

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RE: [Elecraft] KXPD1

2005-09-09 Thread Paul T. Rubin
>Mine has the same problem. I discovered the headphones were clogged by a
large dense hairy object between the two earphones. Unfortunately, it can't
be fixed.

True, large dense hairy objects cannot be fixed, but they can be divorced.

*DISCLAIMER*
This is humor. No Flames Please.

Paul N8NOV



RE: [Elecraft] KXPD1

2005-09-09 Thread EricJ
Mine has the same problem. I discovered the headphones were clogged by a
large dense hairy object between the two earphones. Unfortunately, it can't
be fixed.

Eric
KE6US
www.ke6us.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Leigh L Klotz, Jr.
Sent: Friday, September 09, 2005 9:01 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1

My KX1 has trouble receiving CW reliably at more than 20WPM, and by 25WPM it
only gets isolated words  ..  ..
Leigh / WA5ZNU
On Fri, 9 Sep 2005 8:36 am, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> ...it works well (took a test run at 20 wpm, 25 wpm,30 wpm and 35 wpm 
> with no sending errors...
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1

2005-09-09 Thread k4zm

Could it be caused by the person with the headphones on?...LOL

73
Jim K4ZM

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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1

2005-09-09 Thread Leigh L Klotz, Jr.
My KX1 has trouble receiving CW reliably at more than 20WPM, and by 
25WPM it only gets isolated words  ..  ..

Leigh / WA5ZNU
On Fri, 9 Sep 2005 8:36 am, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
...it works well (took a test run at 20 wpm, 25 wpm,30 wpm and 35 wpm 
with no sending errors...

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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 sensitivity

2004-07-30 Thread Eric Ward
Try swapping the rubber grips.  My craftsmanship left the wire on the "dit"
side is a little bumpy, even after squishing it with needle nose pliers-it
sends continuous dits with one of the rubber sleeves, but not the other.
Also, make sure the spring steel levers are aligned so that they fit into
the cavities molded into the rubber grips-if they are out of alignment even
a little, they will be trapped against the contact wire-I had this momentary
problem when I first assembled mine.  (Also, at the risk of telling you
something you don't need to know, check that your dit wire is not
accidentally grounding to the aluminum bracket somewhere.)

73

Eric

N0HHS 



I just got done with my KX1 construction, including the KXPD1 paddles.
Another very nice setup from Elecraft! My question is how do I make the
paddles less sensitive to touch. I find that the left side (dits) is very
sensitive, and at one point, it started sending dits all on its own. I have
squeezed the wires inside down as close to the PC board as they can be, but
that didn't help. The right side of the paddle is working fine. Anyone have
any other suggestions??
 
Thanks, Dan W1RDB

 

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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 assembly question

2004-06-15 Thread kc8tya
Eric, 
 I was a bit worried about that part too, it was tricky. I actually bend 
the pins slightly so they were away from the wall. Also I trimmed before 
inserting because I was not sure how I would do it afterwards. My only 
concern is that those wires are exposed, and could be bumbed to short out 
with each other or the base. I was considering using some plastidip or 
something to secure and insulate them in the hole. Anyone else do anything 
similar?


Mohan


KC8TYA

===
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 11:52:05 -0400
From: "Eric Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [Elecraft] KXPD1 assembly question
To: 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I am at the step where you solder the two pieces of hook-up wire to the lugs
of the stereo plug.  Does anyone have advice about how to best carry that
out?  

 

Here are the ways I can imagine doing it:

Thread them through the holes in the lugs (with tweezers), solder, and then
cut off the excess?  

Cut them off first so they can be inserted (just) into the holes in the lugs
(using tweezers), and then solder? 

Bend them so they are in contact with the lugs (but not actually going
through the holes) solder them, and then cut off the excess?  

 

I would love to benefit from everyone's experience before doing the try try
again.

Thanks and 73,

Eric

N0HHS

 

--
WOW! Homepage (http://www.wowway.com)

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RE: [Elecraft] KXPD1 assembly question

2004-06-15 Thread Ed Parish K1EP
At 6/15/2004 09:58 AM, Eric Ward wrote:
>I ended up doing about like Dave sez below, with the modification that I
>threaded the wires through the lug holes before attaching the PC
>boards--then I screwed them in and pulled the excess wire through the lug
>holes with needle nose pliers, being careful not to tighten the wires so
>much that they contacted the housing.  Soldering wasn't too bad with a drop
>of solder on a fine tip and the lugs (esp. the sleeve lug) bent into the
>middle of the cavity a bit.

I believe that I soldered the wires onto the PC board first and trimmed them to 
length.  Then I carefully bent about 1/16" or so of the end of the wire at a 
right angle.  I had the lugs on the plug arranged to make it easy to get my 
soldering iron in there.  Then I used a very thin needle nose pliers and hooked 
the wire onto the lugs and soldered.  

>Like Dave, I brilliantly connected mine backwards--i.e. ended up with a tip
>connected to the right paddle and ring connected to the left--hence dits
>from the right and dahs from the left.

Software corrects for hardware mistakes.  You can rewire the paddle or just 
change the left-rightness with the appropriate menu setting.


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RE: [Elecraft] KXPD1 assembly question

2004-06-15 Thread Eric Ward
I ended up doing about like Dave sez below, with the modification that I
threaded the wires through the lug holes before attaching the PC
boards--then I screwed them in and pulled the excess wire through the lug
holes with needle nose pliers, being careful not to tighten the wires so
much that they contacted the housing.  Soldering wasn't too bad with a drop
of solder on a fine tip and the lugs (esp. the sleeve lug) bent into the
middle of the cavity a bit.

Like Dave, I brilliantly connected mine backwards--i.e. ended up with a tip
connected to the right paddle and ring connected to the left--hence dits
from the right and dahs from the left.

This I attribute to my being chirally challenged. But it is true, as Dave
points out, that Figs. 5 (b) and (c) show the paddle "upside down" compared
to how it will be attached to the rig for a rightie.  A future manual
revision might note in bold that Fig 5. (c) is "backwards" so other geniuses
like me (and Dave, I guess) do not fall into the same trap.  But then again,
nothing beats actually reading the directions--duh...

73,
Eric
N0HHS 

-Original Message-
From: David Toepfer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2004 9:31 PM
To: Eric Ward; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 assembly question

1) bend the tip lug in at about a 15 degree abgle
2) bend the wire so that it will fit through the hole and solder it in place
with not a lot of solder
3) bend the tip lug back up some while pulling the wire up and bending it at
the solder joint
4) only bend it back enough to ensure that it will not contact the aluminum
housing and trim the excess wire
5) repeat the above procedure for the ring lug, making sure there is
sufficient
space around the ring lug wire where it threads through the channel from the
other side of the housing

Not that I didn't make any mistakes: I read the wire from the right connects
to
the tip lug but missed the fact that they said in the above illustration and
assumed they meant as I would install it (as if everyone out there is a
right'ie like me).  So I wondered for a day why the paddle was running
backward.  So I had to do the procedure I outlined above again.  :-) 

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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 assembly question

2004-06-14 Thread David Toepfer
I dont think any one method is right, but I was surprised how difficult it was
not with patience and a sharp pair of flush cut nippers when I did the
following:

1) bend the tip lug in at about a 15 degree abgle
2) bend the wire so that it will fit through the hole and solder it in place
with not a lot of solder
3) bend the tip lug back up some while pulling the wire up and bending it at
the solder joint
4) only bend it back enough to ensure that it will not contact the aluminum
housing and trim the excess wire
5) repeat the above procedure for the ring lug, making sure there is sufficient
space around the ring lug wire where it threads through the channel from the
other side of the housing

Not that I didn't make any mistakes: I read the wire from the right connects to
the tip lug but missed the fact that they said in the above illustration and
assumed they meant as I would install it (as if everyone out there is a
right'ie like me).  So I wondered for a day why the paddle was running
backward.  So I had to do the procedure I outlined above again.  :-)

But it has worked fine ever since.  It is a brilliant design.  I have been
thinking how I can modify it ever so slightly to offer a non-iambic paddle mod
for the so many who seem to want one.  I feel I am almost there.  I will let
you all know as soon as I have a breakthrough.  Perhaps when I finish the
summer house work I will buy another one and work on this as well.  Wayne/Eric,
any chance I can get a spare paddle kit to experiment on?  You can have
whatever design I come up with if you want it.  :-)  Joking.  I'll probably
just buy another KXPD1 and give you guys whatever idea I come up with just the
same if you want it.

dt
.

--- Eric Ward <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I am at the step where you solder the two pieces of hook-up wire to the lugs
> of the stereo plug.  Does anyone have advice about how to best carry that
> out?  
> 
>  
> 
> Here are the ways I can imagine doing it:
> 
> Thread them through the holes in the lugs (with tweezers), solder, and then
> cut off the excess?  
> 
> Cut them off first so they can be inserted (just) into the holes in the lugs
> (using tweezers), and then solder? 
> 
> Bend them so they are in contact with the lugs (but not actually going
> through the holes) solder them, and then cut off the excess?  
> 
>  
> 
> I would love to benefit from everyone's experience before doing the try try
> again.
> 
> Thanks and 73,
> 
> Eric
> 
> N0HHS
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 assembly question

2004-06-14 Thread Leigh L. Klotz, Jr.
I don't know if it is right, but I rotated the lugs themselves so that 
one was in the channel at the bottom and then just bent the other one 
down towards the center of the hole and there was enough room to slide a 
piece of hooked wire in.

On Mon, 14 Jun 2004 1:36pm, Eric Ward wrote:
I am at the step where you solder the two pieces of hook-up wire to the 
lugs
of the stereo plug.  Does anyone have advice about how to best carry 
that

out?

73,
WA5ZNU Leigh
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 assembly question

2004-06-14 Thread David M. Katinsky
This was the step where I thought to myself that surely they must be joking
:-). My recollection is that I used your last method with a generous ball of
solder on the tip of the iron.


-- 

"It takes brains. It's not like forward, where you can get away with
scoring and not play defense... On defense you have to be thinking."
---Chris Chelios

David M. Katinsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
N2RDT


> From: Eric Ward <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 11:52:05 -0400
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] KXPD1 assembly question
> 
> I am at the step where you solder the two pieces of hook-up wire to the lugs
> of the stereo plug.  Does anyone have advice about how to best carry that
> out?  
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the ways I can imagine doing it:
> 
> Thread them through the holes in the lugs (with tweezers), solder, and then
> cut off the excess?
> 
> Cut them off first so they can be inserted (just) into the holes in the lugs
> (using tweezers), and then solder?
> 
> Bend them so they are in contact with the lugs (but not actually going
> through the holes) solder them, and then cut off the excess?
> 
> 
> 
> I would love to benefit from everyone's experience before doing the try try
> again.
> 
> Thanks and 73,
> 
> Eric
> 
> N0HHS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 

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