Re: CS>Current Limiting diodes

[V]

Hi Dan,

   Those are interesting little diodes. I can put a direct short in the circuit 
and they still limit it to 1 MA.
I calculated it takes about 5.5 to 6 inches of 14 gauge wire to give the 
correct surface area for 1 ma current.

Take care,
 V
Energize With Light
http://www.theledman.net/

> I think "current limiting diodes" is something of a misnomer, kind of like 
> products marked
> "unscented" which have scent in it, or like "Liberal" and "Conservative" in 
> the political realm...

> By the way, don't buy the exact 1.0 ma diode, buy one tenth ma less than or 
> greater than (ie. 0.9 ma
> or 2.1 ma).  They are less than half the price of the exact 1/0 ma diodes.

> Dan

> IV.5 - Current Limiting diodes?

> Constant current two-terminal devices can be made by shorting the gate and 
> the source of a JFET
> together. When the FET is forward biased, this results in a nearly constant 
> current for voltages
> ranging from roughly 2V up to 300V (or the breakdown voltage of the device in 
> question). In reverse
> bias, this kind of constant current device conducts as a junction diode (so 
> one can oppose two such
> devices in series to regulate AC current).

> Siliconix makes two-lead FET current-limiting diodes ranging from 0.24 mA 
> (J500) through 4.7 mA
> (J511) in plastic packages, and from 1.6 mA (CR160) through 4.7 mA (CR470) in 
> metal TO-18 packages.

> National Semiconductor makes a three-terminal adjustable device, the 
> LM134/LM234/LM334, that acts as
> a resistor-programmed current source diode, analogous to the
> 'programmable Zener' TL431. Adjustment 
> range is 1.0 uA to 10 mA, and voltage compliance is from 1V to 40V (or 30V 
> for some versions). The
> current is slightly temperature-dependent (this may be useful, or can be 
> eliminated with a diode
> added to the adjustment resistor).





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CS>FW: CS>Current Limiting diodes

[Dan Nave]

Title: FW: CS>Current Limiting diodes




Correction:
That should read (ie. 0.9 ma or 1.1 ma)...



I think "current limiting diodes" is something of a
misnomer, kind of like products marked 

"unscented" which have scent in it, or like "Liberal"
and "Conservative" in the political realm...

By the way, don't buy the exact 1.0 ma diode, buy one
tenth ma less than or greater than (ie. 0.9 ma 

or 2.1 ma).  They are less than half the price of the
exact 1/0 ma diodes.

Dan

IV.5 - Current Limiting diodes?

Constant current two-terminal devices can be made by
shorting the gate and the source of a JFET 

together. When the FET is forward biased, this results
in a nearly constant current for voltages 

ranging from roughly 2V up to 300V (or the breakdown
voltage of the device in question). In reverse 

bias, this kind of constant current device conducts as a
junction diode (so one can oppose two such 

devices in series to regulate AC current).

Siliconix makes two-lead FET current-limiting diodes
ranging from 0.24 mA (J500) through 4.7 mA 

(J511) in plastic packages, and from 1.6 mA (CR160)
through 4.7 mA (CR470) in metal TO-18 packages.

National Semiconductor makes a three-terminal
adjustable device, the LM134/LM234/LM334, that acts as 

a resistor-programmed current source diode, analogous to
the 'programmable Zener' TL431. Adjustment 

range is 1.0 uA to 10 mA, and voltage compliance is from
1V to 40V (or 30V for some versions). The 

current is slightly temperature-dependent (this may be
useful, or can be eliminated with a diode 

added to the adjustment resistor).



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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.4/476 - Release Date: 10/14/2006

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.4/476 - Release Date: 10/14/2006

CS>Current Limiting diodes

[Dan Nave]

I think "current limiting diodes" is something of a misnomer, kind of like products marked 
"unscented" which have scent in it, or like "Liberal" and "Conservative" in the political realm...


By the way, don't buy the exact 1.0 ma diode, buy one tenth ma less than or greater than (ie. 0.9 ma 
or 2.1 ma).  They are less than half the price of the exact 1/0 ma diodes.


Dan

IV.5 - Current Limiting diodes?

Constant current two-terminal devices can be made by shorting the gate and the source of a JFET 
together. When the FET is forward biased, this results in a nearly constant current for voltages 
ranging from roughly 2V up to 300V (or the breakdown voltage of the device in question). In reverse 
bias, this kind of constant current device conducts as a junction diode (so one can oppose two such 
devices in series to regulate AC current).


Siliconix makes two-lead FET current-limiting diodes ranging from 0.24 mA (J500) through 4.7 mA 
(J511) in plastic packages, and from 1.6 mA (CR160) through 4.7 mA (CR470) in metal TO-18 packages.


National Semiconductor makes a three-terminal adjustable device, the LM134/LM234/LM334, that acts as 
a resistor-programmed current source diode, analogous to the 'programmable Zener' TL431. Adjustment 
range is 1.0 uA to 10 mA, and voltage compliance is from 1V to 40V (or 30V for some versions). The 
current is slightly temperature-dependent (this may be useful, or can be eliminated with a diode 
added to the adjustment resistor).




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CS>cancer and nutritional supplements

[zeb caffe]

Yea Paula. I couldnt agree with you more. For anyone who is interested, there 
is a nutritional supplment just for cancer patients in the Needs health and 
wellness catalog.
  It doesnt make sense not to build up your immune system when attempting to 
fight cancer.That is when you need a strong immune system. the most. 
"Modern"medicine doesnt make any sense to me and borders on being  ridiculous.


-
Do you Yahoo!?
 Everyone is raving about the  all-new Yahoo! Mail.

Re: CS>Sister has cancer - Hair Dyes

[mborgert]

FROM MY SCHOOL BOOKS HENNA IS SAFE TO USE ABOUT IT BEING TRUE TO COLOR IS 
DEBATABLE
MARY
 -- Original message --
From: gmetrop...@aol.com
> Are all natural hennas like light mountains color the gray product safe and 
> true to color?



--- Begin Message ---
Are all natural hennas like light mountains color the gray product safe and true to color?
--- End Message ---

Re: CS>soldering, esp small parts

[V]

Hi Max,

   Here are the ones with the leads on them that I got.
http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=610-1N5298


Take care,
 V
Energize With Light
http://www.theledman.net/

> Thank you for the detailed basics on soldering.  I was not even aware
> that I wasn't getting a nice 2 wire thing with a nice long lead.  They
> sure don't cost much, I may just buy those "easy" ones and practice on
> the short lead diodes. And I'll check out the specs on the 3-lead diodes too.

> "M. G. Devour"  wrote: Hi Max,

> I think you've set yourself at a bit of a disadvantage without 
> realizing it. The easier way to go would have been to buy diodes with 
> leads rather than surface mount. You may want to return them (if the 
> vendor allows that) or write them off and order some with leads.

> I've never done anything with surface mount yet. If you put the 
> following into Google, you'll get some guides to equipment and 
> technique:

> "surface mount" "soldering technique"

> As you explore electronics you'll find a lot of hobbyist info and rub 
> elbows with ham radio enthusiasts a lot. They are good resources.

> The most important things about soldering are clean surfaces, proper 
> flux, and applying heat the right way...

> If you're using standard components of any kind, the leads are usually 
> tinned or plated with something to prevent tarnish. Wire or circuit 
> boards may or may not be plated. If there is any visible tarnish or 
> corrosion, then scrape, sand, or scrub the surfaces gently until 
> they're bright. Something as simple as a pencil eraser could be enough, 
> or a knife blace or a little fine sandpaper. The exact method you use 
> depends on common sense and the mechanical requirements of the 
> situation. Leave your belt sander in the cabinet!!! 

> Flux is the next step in getting clean surfaces. It is designed to 
> dissolve the invisible oxide layer that inevitably forms on metal 
> surfaces so that the soldering alloy can wet to the surfaces being 
> joined for a strong mechanical and chemical joint.

> In metalworking you might use acid fluxes or borax or other chemicals. 
> KEEP ALL SUCH FLUXES AWAY FROM ELECTRONICS WORK! 

> The only safe kind of flux to use in electronics is rosin. Now, 
> electronics folks have made it easy for you. Just buy rosin core 
> electronics solder from any of the electronics suppliers. Since you're 
> working with small stuff, small diameter solder is best. Something 
> around .04 inches (1mm) is best. It takes very little heat to melt.

> Lastly, proper application of heat requires a reasonably sized 
> soldering iron, an appropriately shaped and clean tip, and a firm 
> understanding of what it is you're trying to accomplish...

> For small stuff like this you only need a 25W iron, and a small, 
> slender tip. You'll probably find good suggestions for equipment for 
> SMC use in the resources you dig up online. Take advantage of their 
> experience. You *won't* be using a big honking 200W soldering gun or a 
> metalworker's iron that's heated with a torch! 

> Get a holder with a sponge in the base to put your iron in when it's 
> not in your hand. You'll need the sponge and it'll protect the 
> environment (and you) from accidental burns.

> If you want to go first class, get yourself a temperature controlled 
> soldering station with all the bells and whistles. They heat up fast 
> and can pour a lot of power into the job, but won't overheat the work. 
> Expensive, but a real joy to have if you decide to get into the hobby 
> long term.

> Now that we've got everything at hand, let's see what we have to do to 
> make a good joint...

> Heat your soldering iron. When it's up to temperature melt a little 
> solder on the tip. The flux from the solder will bubble up and smoke, 
> and a small blob of solder should cling to the surface. Then wipe the 
> tip with a quick swipe on the damp sponge. It should end up shiny. 
> You'll do this anytime you pick up the hot iron and it isn't still 
> shiny. Often another swipe on the sponge will bring it back. If not, 
> another small touch of solder will be needed.

> Your soldering tip is now ready to apply to the joint.

> You've already made sure that the surfaces to be joined are shiny. You 
> should also be sure that the mechanical joint between the parts is 
> stable and reasonably strong. Using solder as "glue" to hold a joint 
> together is not the best technique in general. It is susceptible to 
> vibration and fatigue. With PC mount components you've got leads going 
> through a hole to stablize things. With SMC you usually have the part 
> glued to the substrate to keep it in place while it's being soldered. 
> Joining wires, or wires to terminals, you'll wrap or twist or pinch the 
> joint so it's mechanically sound before you solder.

> Finally, the big moment. Here's where you finally see what it is you're 
> trying to accomplish.

> Apply your shiny, tinned soldering tip to the junction of the part

Re: CS>soldering, esp small parts

[Max Sanders]

Thank you for the detailed basics on soldering.  I was not even aware that I 
wasn't getting a nice 2 wire thing with a nice long lead.  They sure don't cost 
much, I may just buy those "easy" ones and practice on the short lead diodes. 
And I'll check out the specs on the 3-lead diodes too.  

"M. G. Devour"  wrote: Hi Max,

I think you've set yourself at a bit of a disadvantage without 
realizing it. The easier way to go would have been to buy diodes with 
leads rather than surface mount. You may want to return them (if the 
vendor allows that) or write them off and order some with leads.

I've never done anything with surface mount yet. If you put the 
following into Google, you'll get some guides to equipment and 
technique:

"surface mount" "soldering technique"

As you explore electronics you'll find a lot of hobbyist info and rub 
elbows with ham radio enthusiasts a lot. They are good resources.

The most important things about soldering are clean surfaces, proper 
flux, and applying heat the right way...

If you're using standard components of any kind, the leads are usually 
tinned or plated with something to prevent tarnish. Wire or circuit 
boards may or may not be plated. If there is any visible tarnish or 
corrosion, then scrape, sand, or scrub the surfaces gently until 
they're bright. Something as simple as a pencil eraser could be enough, 
or a knife blace or a little fine sandpaper. The exact method you use 
depends on common sense and the mechanical requirements of the 
situation. Leave your belt sander in the cabinet!!! 

Flux is the next step in getting clean surfaces. It is designed to 
dissolve the invisible oxide layer that inevitably forms on metal 
surfaces so that the soldering alloy can wet to the surfaces being 
joined for a strong mechanical and chemical joint.

In metalworking you might use acid fluxes or borax or other chemicals. 
KEEP ALL SUCH FLUXES AWAY FROM ELECTRONICS WORK! 

The only safe kind of flux to use in electronics is rosin. Now, 
electronics folks have made it easy for you. Just buy rosin core 
electronics solder from any of the electronics suppliers. Since you're 
working with small stuff, small diameter solder is best. Something 
around .04 inches (1mm) is best. It takes very little heat to melt.

Lastly, proper application of heat requires a reasonably sized 
soldering iron, an appropriately shaped and clean tip, and a firm 
understanding of what it is you're trying to accomplish...

For small stuff like this you only need a 25W iron, and a small, 
slender tip. You'll probably find good suggestions for equipment for 
SMC use in the resources you dig up online. Take advantage of their 
experience. You *won't* be using a big honking 200W soldering gun or a 
metalworker's iron that's heated with a torch! 

Get a holder with a sponge in the base to put your iron in when it's 
not in your hand. You'll need the sponge and it'll protect the 
environment (and you) from accidental burns.

If you want to go first class, get yourself a temperature controlled 
soldering station with all the bells and whistles. They heat up fast 
and can pour a lot of power into the job, but won't overheat the work. 
Expensive, but a real joy to have if you decide to get into the hobby 
long term.

Now that we've got everything at hand, let's see what we have to do to 
make a good joint...

Heat your soldering iron. When it's up to temperature melt a little 
solder on the tip. The flux from the solder will bubble up and smoke, 
and a small blob of solder should cling to the surface. Then wipe the 
tip with a quick swipe on the damp sponge. It should end up shiny. 
You'll do this anytime you pick up the hot iron and it isn't still 
shiny. Often another swipe on the sponge will bring it back. If not, 
another small touch of solder will be needed.

Your soldering tip is now ready to apply to the joint.

You've already made sure that the surfaces to be joined are shiny. You 
should also be sure that the mechanical joint between the parts is 
stable and reasonably strong. Using solder as "glue" to hold a joint 
together is not the best technique in general. It is susceptible to 
vibration and fatigue. With PC mount components you've got leads going 
through a hole to stablize things. With SMC you usually have the part 
glued to the substrate to keep it in place while it's being soldered. 
Joining wires, or wires to terminals, you'll wrap or twist or pinch the 
joint so it's mechanically sound before you solder.

Finally, the big moment. Here's where you finally see what it is you're 
trying to accomplish.

Apply your shiny, tinned soldering tip to the junction of the parts to 
be joined. Poke the solder into the joint near but not on the tip to 
see if the parts are hot enough to melt the solder.

Remember: You are heating the PARTS hot enough so they will melt the 
solder, NOT heating the solder.

Once the parts are hot enough, you'll see the rosin in the solder melt, 
spread, and bubble all

Re: CS>BPH

[Staya Udanvti Bob Butler]

My formula, that worked for me, was equal parts of Mahuang, He Shou Wu, and 
Ashwugandha.


I was originally taking the Starlight formula and it became too expensive 
for a retired person at $40+ a month.


I now have taken the mahuang out and just take 250 mg of He Shou Wu and 
Ashwugandha daily. I buy bulk and capsulate my self in O size caps I buy in 
bulk also. Each tamped cap weighs about 250 mg.


This is what worked for me in three days but you may be different. I still 
take one of each daily for maintenance and my annual physicals have produced 
the Doctor's remark "you have the prostrate of a 20 year old".


Love
Bob
Adageyudi
Staya Udanvti

- Original Message - 
From: "Day Sutton" 

To: 
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: CS>Interesting Articles


I have had BPH (enlarged prostate) for years, how; or where do you get 
stung?

How often?




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Re: CS>How to make the best CS?

[Staya Udanvti Bob Butler]

I've had no complaints from my family but when I take fresh garlic for 
hypertension every one complains.

Love
Bob
Adageyudi
Staya Udanvti
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Nave 
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 1:47 PM
  Subject: RE: CS>How to make the best CS?


  The real question is, Bob, 

  "Do other people still smell it?"

  Dan



--
  From: Staya Udanvti Bob Butler [mailto:cheroke...@cox.net] 
  Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 8:25 AM
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com
  Subject: Re: CS>How to make the best CS?


  http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/DimethylSulfoxide-DMSO/


  I have been using DMSO since the 1960's and I do not smell, nor taste it 
anymore. Even when taking it internally.

  Love
  Bob
  Adageyudi
  Staya Udanvti

Re: CS>Sister has cancer - Hair Dyes

[GMetropulo]

Are all natural hennas like light mountains color the gray product safe and 
true to color?

Re: CS>Diodes with 3 leads ?

[V]

Hi Ode,

   the spec sheet on mine showed you had to connect two of the legs together.

Take care,
 V



>One of the legs is just an anchor and orientation device.
>   Take a ohm meter and see which ones do what or download the Adobe specs 
> by googling the part number.

> Ode

> At 11:13 AM 10/13/2006 -0700, you wrote:

>>Hey V, or other helpful brethren and sistern, I should have asked about 
>>the 3 leads too. Which 2 leads do I have to short together?   And as for 
>>surface mounting,; do I get a circuit board at Radio Shack or somesuch to 
>>help wire/mount?  How do I know it'll fit, take it with me and try it on?
>>I am pre ice-age.  Mammoth soup anyone?
>>Maz

>>V  wrote:
>>>Well the ones Max had had three metal legs ( leads) they are made for
>>>surface mounting and you haver to short two of the leads together.


>>How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.

>>No virus found in this incoming message.
>>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>>Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.3/474 - Release Date: 10/13/2006





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Re: CS>Diodes with 3 leads ?

[V]

Hi Max,

   tere is a spec sheet that comes with theu little diodes that tells which 
leads to short together. And circuit board with the little copper spots on them 
then you can solder to the diode to the copper spots nad then solder the wires 
to the copper nearby. if you get the circuit that has copper spots thta cover 
moro than one hole it is the one you want.

Take care,
 V
Energize With Light
http://www.theledman.net/

> Hey V, or other helpful brethren and sistern, I should have asked about
> the 3 leads too. Which 2 leads do I have to short together?   And as for
> surface mounting,; do I get a circuit board at Radio Shack or somesuch to
> help wire/mount?  How do I know it'll fit, take it with me and try it on? 
> I am pre ice-age.  Mammoth soup anyone?
> Maz

> V  wrote: Well the ones Max had had three metal legs ( 
> leads) they are made for
> surface mounting and you haver to short two of the leads together.  


> 
> -
> How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger?s low  PC-to-Phone call rates.


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Re: CS>How to make the best CS?

[V]

Hi Deborah,

   I said the otnher way aronud. the DMSO gets converted to MSM, so taknig MSM 
is very similar to DMSO internally. I read thta in John Thomas book Young Again

Take care,
 V
/

> V said that msm turns to dmso in the body...I replied to that thread...I
> take msm, which is not liquidthanks deb


> - Original Message 
> From: "cking...@nycap.rr.com" 
> To: silver-list@eskimo.com
> Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 8:45:36 PM
Subject: Re: CS>>How to make the best CS?


> Over the sink, Marshall. Over the sink!

> Chuck
> Newsflash: 
> Truck load of Viagra hijacked!
> Police searching for hardened criminals!

> On 10/12/2006 11:13:46 AM, Marshall Dudley (mdud...@king-cart.com)
> wrote:
>> How do you measure a heaping teaspoon of a liquid?
>> 
>> Marshall
>> 
>> debbiegerar...@comcast.net wrote:
>> 
>> >   Hi Vlong time no seeyour right I take two heaping tsp. a day
>> > with no problemdebbie
>> >


> --
> The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.

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--

CS>Radiation and silver

[Catherine Creel]

 Hi All,


 I think this abstract gives some sens of the effects of radiation in
the presence of silver.  It appears to me that those who advisde
against are doing this because they have no knowledge from which to
formulate a true response.


Int J Radiat Biol. 1992 Mar;61(3):369-79.

Increased radiation tolerance of mouse tongue epithelium after local
conditioning.

Dorr W, Kummermehr J.

GSF-Institut fur Strahlenbiologie, W-8042 Neuherberg, Germany.

The effect of local stimulation on mitotic activity and radiation
tolerance was studied in mouse tongue mucosa. Silver nitrate solution
(0.5-20%) was used for local conditioning. The most effective protocol
comprised three daily treatments (days 0-2), yielding a delayed
increase in 24 h mitotic counts by about 30% on days 5-7. The
stimulating effect was independent of silver nitrate concentration.
Sham treatment with saline or anaesthesia alone clearly depressed
mitotic activity on days 2-4 without any subsequent overshoot.
Radiation treatment was initiated on day 5 after three daily
treatments with 3% silver nitrate solution. A top-up technique was
employed, consisting of fractionated irradiation (300 kV X-rays) of
the whole snout, followed by graded local test doses (25 kV X-rays) to
induce denudation in a confined area of the inferior tongue surface.
Silver nitrate conditioning did not alter the radiosensitivity of the
epithelium to single local doses, but shortened the latency to
denudation from 11 to 8 days. In contrast, a clear increase in
tolerance to fractionated irradiation, delivering 5 x 2.5, 5 x 3.5, 5
x 4.5 Gy or 3 x 5.2 Gy in 7 days, was observed, equivalent to about
four, two, one and two extra dose fractions. This approach may be a
suitable way to increase radiation tolerance of oral mucosa in
clinical radiotherapy.

PMID: 1347070

--
Regards,
Catherine

"Some men have thousands of reasons why they cannot do what they want
to, when all they need is one reason why they can." -- Mary Frances
Berry


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CS>Re: FW: CS>Sister has cancer - Hair Dyes

[Dan Nave]

In India, Muslim men who had made the Hadj pilgrimage to Mecca dyed their 
beards red with henna and
were referred to as "Hadji."

Dan


---
*From:* Rowena[SMTP:new...@aapt.net.au]
*Sent:* Saturday, October 14, 2006 11:20:08 AM
*To:* silver-list@eskimo.com
*Subject:* Re: CS>Sister has cancer - Hair Dyes

When I was in Brazil and a few other South American countries you could 
tell

which people used the henna, when in the sun the hair looked purple.

Purple, eh?  Why not, I've seen orange and red and green done on purpose.
Reminds me when my mother first went from using henna (took an age, and had
to be kept hot while on the head) to the chemical ones.  Early days, early
fifties.  Her first try of the chemical ones turned her hair green.

Il faut souffrir pour etre belle!

Rowena






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CS>CS & Tooth Abcess

[laquerencia33]

Here's another testimonial...

A few weeks ago both my husband and my elderly mother had the beginnings  
of dental infections/abscesses underneath their bridgework.  My mother's  
condition was most serious by far with significant pain and a great deal  
of swelling in one jaw.  Both of them knocked the infections out in very  
short order by taking mega-doses of vitamin C powder (calcium ascorbate),  
swabbing the affected area with a Q-tip soaked in Tea Tree Oil/DMSO, and  
swishing/holding CS in their mouths several times a day.  Both of them  
would have been subject to very expensive and invasive bridge replacements  
if they had rushed to the dentist.  Instead they were pain-free and  
asymptomatic within THREE DAYS with no dental visits necessary.  Both are  
continuing to take reduced amts. of VitC and are paying close attention to  
the problem areas but were just amazed.


DByron


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Re: CS>Sister has cancer - Hair Dyes

[Rowena]

When I was in Brazil and a few other South American countries you could tell 
which people used the henna, when in the sun the hair looked purple.

Purple, eh?  Why not, I've seen orange and red and green done on purpose.
Reminds me when my mother first went from using henna (took an age, and had 
to be kept hot while on the head) to the chemical ones.  Early days, early 
fifties.  Her first try of the chemical ones turned her hair green.

Il faut souffrir pour etre belle!

Rowena




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Re: CS>soldering, esp small parts

[Rowena]

Aha!  Thanks Mike.  Who wouldda thunk that a CS group would be the place to 
find out stuff like this?  It would never have occurred to me to go looking 
for instructions on how to solder, because of course, it's obvious, isn't 
it?  Except it  is not obvious, I now find.

I had a charming antique gold fob watch once.  As a teenager I wore it round 
my neck on a chain.  Over the years the hinge of the cover wore away until 
it wasn't safe to wear any more.  When my husband got a soldering iron I 
soldered the hinge to keep the charming watch in one piece.  This is not 
something a person who knew anything about anything would do.  I now don't 
wear anything around my neck, unless it's a copper coil a la Lakhovsky.  The 
soldered part of the gold had to be cut out to stop the lead eating away the 
rest of the gold.

Hic transit gloria mundi.  Ignorance is not all it's cracked up to be.  At 
least, it's not bliss.

Rowena 


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Re: CS>Diodes with 3 leads ?

[Ode Coyote]

  One of the legs is just an anchor and orientation device.
 Take a ohm meter and see which ones do what or download the Adobe specs 
by googling the part number.


Ode

At 11:13 AM 10/13/2006 -0700, you wrote:

Hey V, or other helpful brethren and sistern, I should have asked about 
the 3 leads too. Which 2 leads do I have to short together?   And as for 
surface mounting,; do I get a circuit board at Radio Shack or somesuch to 
help wire/mount?  How do I know it'll fit, take it with me and try it on?

I am pre ice-age.  Mammoth soup anyone?
Maz

V  wrote:

Well the ones Max had had three metal legs ( leads) they are made for
surface mounting and you haver to short two of the leads together.



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Re: CS>X-RAY....radiation ... and CS

[M. G. Devour]

Dear Gertrude,

You write:
> I think people get so much  radiation  and scans more than the bom on
> Nagasaki...how many can one person get and stay alive?

I believe the MRI is relatively safe. Magnetic pulses have been found 
to be helpful for some things. 

The CT scan, however, uses a LOT of X-rays. I think some folks here 
know the relative amounts?

Be well,

Mike D.
[Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian]
[mdev...@eskimo.com]
[Speaking only for myself...   ]


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Re: CS>soldering, esp small parts

[M. G. Devour]

Hi Max,

I think you've set yourself at a bit of a disadvantage without 
realizing it. The easier way to go would have been to buy diodes with 
leads rather than surface mount. You may want to return them (if the 
vendor allows that) or write them off and order some with leads.

I've never done anything with surface mount yet. If you put the 
following into Google, you'll get some guides to equipment and 
technique:

"surface mount" "soldering technique"

As you explore electronics you'll find a lot of hobbyist info and rub 
elbows with ham radio enthusiasts a lot. They are good resources.

The most important things about soldering are clean surfaces, proper 
flux, and applying heat the right way...

If you're using standard components of any kind, the leads are usually 
tinned or plated with something to prevent tarnish. Wire or circuit 
boards may or may not be plated. If there is any visible tarnish or 
corrosion, then scrape, sand, or scrub the surfaces gently until 
they're bright. Something as simple as a pencil eraser could be enough, 
or a knife blace or a little fine sandpaper. The exact method you use 
depends on common sense and the mechanical requirements of the 
situation. Leave your belt sander in the cabinet!!! 

Flux is the next step in getting clean surfaces. It is designed to 
dissolve the invisible oxide layer that inevitably forms on metal 
surfaces so that the soldering alloy can wet to the surfaces being 
joined for a strong mechanical and chemical joint.

In metalworking you might use acid fluxes or borax or other chemicals. 
KEEP ALL SUCH FLUXES AWAY FROM ELECTRONICS WORK! 

The only safe kind of flux to use in electronics is rosin. Now, 
electronics folks have made it easy for you. Just buy rosin core 
electronics solder from any of the electronics suppliers. Since you're 
working with small stuff, small diameter solder is best. Something 
around .04 inches (1mm) is best. It takes very little heat to melt.

Lastly, proper application of heat requires a reasonably sized 
soldering iron, an appropriately shaped and clean tip, and a firm 
understanding of what it is you're trying to accomplish...

For small stuff like this you only need a 25W iron, and a small, 
slender tip. You'll probably find good suggestions for equipment for 
SMC use in the resources you dig up online. Take advantage of their 
experience. You *won't* be using a big honking 200W soldering gun or a 
metalworker's iron that's heated with a torch! 

Get a holder with a sponge in the base to put your iron in when it's 
not in your hand. You'll need the sponge and it'll protect the 
environment (and you) from accidental burns.

If you want to go first class, get yourself a temperature controlled 
soldering station with all the bells and whistles. They heat up fast 
and can pour a lot of power into the job, but won't overheat the work. 
Expensive, but a real joy to have if you decide to get into the hobby 
long term.

Now that we've got everything at hand, let's see what we have to do to 
make a good joint...

Heat your soldering iron. When it's up to temperature melt a little 
solder on the tip. The flux from the solder will bubble up and smoke, 
and a small blob of solder should cling to the surface. Then wipe the 
tip with a quick swipe on the damp sponge. It should end up shiny. 
You'll do this anytime you pick up the hot iron and it isn't still 
shiny. Often another swipe on the sponge will bring it back. If not, 
another small touch of solder will be needed.

Your soldering tip is now ready to apply to the joint.

You've already made sure that the surfaces to be joined are shiny. You 
should also be sure that the mechanical joint between the parts is 
stable and reasonably strong. Using solder as "glue" to hold a joint 
together is not the best technique in general. It is susceptible to 
vibration and fatigue. With PC mount components you've got leads going 
through a hole to stablize things. With SMC you usually have the part 
glued to the substrate to keep it in place while it's being soldered. 
Joining wires, or wires to terminals, you'll wrap or twist or pinch the 
joint so it's mechanically sound before you solder.

Finally, the big moment. Here's where you finally see what it is you're 
trying to accomplish.

Apply your shiny, tinned soldering tip to the junction of the parts to 
be joined. Poke the solder into the joint near but not on the tip to 
see if the parts are hot enough to melt the solder.

Remember: You are heating the PARTS hot enough so they will melt the 
solder, NOT heating the solder.

Once the parts are hot enough, you'll see the rosin in the solder melt, 
spread, and bubble all over the joint followed almost immediately by 
the solder melting, flowing and wicking into all the crevises of the 
joint. Allow enough solder to melt into the joint to fill all the low 
points with a nice fillet. Remove the solder and iron and you should 
have a perfect joint, shiny and smooth.

If the parts to be 

Re: CS>Parameters

[Ode Coyote]

  Increase the change time to around 1 to 3 minutes...or more.
Putting a voltmeter or ammeter on the cell and plotting the readouts will 
tell you why.

Ode


At 12:40 PM 10/13/2006 +0200, you wrote:


Greetings to all,

I am trying to produce ionic silver of the best quality
& am having great difficulty in the time required to make a 10ppm
solution.   It seems too much long.   I am using a 100mA transformer
 with a 30v DC supply
& sheet electrodes of about 6 sq. ins on one side of one electrode.
Naturally I use 2 electrodes of the same size.

To emulate some of the manufacturers who are on the Internet
I am using current control at 10mA  & polarity change at
3 second intervals .  Polarity exchange seems to have been the
 main cause of the time extension.  Current control is based
on about 0.8 mA per sq. inch of both sides of the one electrode.
I am using polarity change because of the lack of sludge .

Using distilled water as a starting point it can take up to
24 hours to reach this level.   Using a starting solution of one litre, a 
quart,

 with the addition of 10% of a 10ppm ionic silver solution this time is
cut down to about  12 hours.  A clear solution is obtained &
measured with a Hanna PWT meter.

My feeling is that I must have made an incorrect assumption
of  one or more of the parameters so I would appreciate
informed & practical advice.   Direct access is at
ju...@cybersmart.co.za  & I am most 
happy to hear directly

from  anyone.


Regards to you all.
Julius Kabrun


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Re: CS>X-RAY....radiation ... and CS

[Gertrude]

Ian ,Paula and Marshall thank you for your answers,I send the emails to my 
friend...maybe  now she  knows better what to do and to ask.


Next week she gets another MRI scan...

I think people get so much  radiation  and scans more than the bom on 
Nagasaki...how many can one person get and stay alive?

Maybe drink a lot of well water after all the examinations???

Trudy...a little bit sorrows about the woman...she lives alone and can ask 
nobody...I am an emailfriend.




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Re: CS>X-RAY....radiation ... and CS

[Ian Roe]

Hello:

Good nutrition during chemo and radiation can reduce the side effects of the 
treatments.  I know of an oncologist that utilizes both radiation and chemo 
and finds that less of each are required when there is proper nutrition and 
the body's cells are brought to an alkaline state.


My brother in law is a VietNam war vet.  He was in special forces in 
"deleted" just prior to the war and in Vietnam afterwards.  When he came 
home he found that as long as he worked at jobs where he was mostly alone, 
he did well.  Most of the the years afterwards, he drove transport. About 4 
years ago he was driving and a rock went through his windshield and he went 
into flash back and he decompensated.  He's had severa admissions to the 
psyche ward at the VA hospital - the end result being that he is now home 
but on 20-30 pills a day of varying medications including serotonin uptake 
inhibitors, lithium, meds for his heart and other meds for the agent orange 
syndrome.  I don't know what all the pills are but he had been having 24 
hour non stop nausea for months.  He found that when he was taking a 
particular nutritional product with the pills that the nausea was not there. 
He experimented with it back and forth and proved it to himself and they now 
have a nausea free household. As long as he swallows the juice with the 
pills, there is no nausea.


It's hard to have an appetite during chemo and radiation.  It's even hard to 
eat at all sometimes with the pain and cachexia that comes with cancer let 
alone adding treatments on top of it.


I think that where they are coming from is that they want the drugs to do 
their worst without any interference.  They are concerned the nutritional 
supplements will somehow negate the effects of chemo which is expensive 
enough as it is.  Side effects could be one way that they determine that a 
drug is working.  More side effects, decreased white count, anemia, nausea, 
vomitting etc.  = drug is working harder and better for the person. Wierd 
science if you ask me.  So if they see a reduction in side effects, they 
make the assumption that whatever theperson was taking is reducing the 
effectiveness of the chemo.  More wierd science.


Ian Roe



- Original Message - 
From: "Paula Perry" 

To: 
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2006 7:28 AM
Subject: Re: CS>X-RAYradiation ... and CS



Mark,
It really is a shame that people undergoing chemo are told not to take any
supplements. We got the same thing from some of the nurses and so-called
Nutritianists at MD Anderson. I'm glad we didn't listen. We did our own
investigation. It's all explained in the book Beating Cancer with 
Nutritian

by Patrick Quillin. All the studies that dispute that type of ignorance.
Quillin was the director for Nutritian at Cancer Treatment Centers of
America and knows what he is talking about. We followed a lot of his 
advise
and my husband who was taking tons of supplements became their star 
patient.
He had really only had a few treatments before they could nolonger find 
any

Cancer. He didn't get all the heart damage and other damage from the chemo
that patients usually get. He also didn't go on to having radiation or a
bone marrow transplant either. That was a few years ago and for now he's
healthier than I am. I believe they tell you to avoid supplements out of
ignorance and false beliefs that have been invalidated by actual testing 
and

practice. If these oncologists and nurses know so much, how come most of
their patients are dying from chemo? Just a question. You seem to have
doubts about what they are saying too. I think people just need to 
question

more of what they are being told because it is a matter of life and death
and also a matter of long term damage to vital organs.
Paula



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Re: CS>CS & Tooth Abcess

[Paula Perry]

I have used the Hydrogen Peroxide and used a stim-u-dent (found at Walmart
by the toothpaste) to clean around the gum line of the tooth.(It removes
plaque). Then I just put a dab of tea tree oil on a Q-Tip and dab a little
on the gum around the tooth. That has worked great for me.You have to use
caution with the Tea Tree Oil. I don't think you want to be swallowing it or
putting too much on it.
Paula
- Original Message - 
From: "Ode Coyote" 
To: 
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 5:38 AM
Subject: RE: CS>CS & Tooth Abcess


>Water pick and CS has keeping a tooth in my head fro about a year
> now...sometimes  CS  with H2O2
>
> Ode
>
>
> At 08:39 AM 10/12/2006 -0400, you wrote:
>
> >A water pik and hydrogen peroxide might temporarily fix it or buy you
> >some time.
> >
> >I have found it very effective with sore teeth and gums. I got mine at
> >walmart for $50 and it has a little attachment that gets right into the
> >space between the teeth, and different blasting settings. Dr. Huggins
> >told us abot the water pik and hydrogen peroxide. I also read about
> >using the water pik in Hulda Clark's book for teeth.
> >
> >Hth
> >
> >Wendy
> >
> >
> >-Original Message-
> >From: Leo [mailto:leoel...@telus.net]
> >Sent: October 12, 2006 12:25 AM
> >To: Silver List
> >Subject: CS>CS & Tooth Abcess
> >
> >Can anyone tell me of their own experience with CS and a tooth abcess?
> >My dentist says either a canal or an extraction are going down.
> >Leo
> >
> >
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Re: CS>X-RAY....radiation ... and CS

[Paula Perry]

Mark,
It really is a shame that people undergoing chemo are told not to take any
supplements. We got the same thing from some of the nurses and so-called
Nutritianists at MD Anderson. I'm glad we didn't listen. We did our own
investigation. It's all explained in the book Beating Cancer with Nutritian
by Patrick Quillin. All the studies that dispute that type of ignorance.
Quillin was the director for Nutritian at Cancer Treatment Centers of
America and knows what he is talking about. We followed a lot of his advise
and my husband who was taking tons of supplements became their star patient.
He had really only had a few treatments before they could nolonger find any
Cancer. He didn't get all the heart damage and other damage from the chemo
that patients usually get. He also didn't go on to having radiation or a
bone marrow transplant either. That was a few years ago and for now he's
healthier than I am. I believe they tell you to avoid supplements out of
ignorance and false beliefs that have been invalidated by actual testing and
practice. If these oncologists and nurses know so much, how come most of
their patients are dying from chemo? Just a question. You seem to have
doubts about what they are saying too. I think people just need to question
more of what they are being told because it is a matter of life and death
and also a matter of long term damage to vital organs.
Paula
- Original Message - 
From: "Mark S. Siepak" 
To: 
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: CS>X-RAYradiation ... and CS


> Sorry, Trudy,
> I meant an answer to your question: there isn't enough Silver in the CS to
> show up on ANY x-ray. Probably they don't want her taking anything because
> of chemo. My sister has breast cancer, and they don't even want her to
take
> Vit C supplements, NO SUPPLEMENTS at all was what she was told, because of
> possible interactions with the chemo.
> Mark
>
>
> PS Now a Question: Do any chemical gurus know if Xrays from the airport
will
> harm CS' efficacy? Precipitate? silver ions clump, etc?
> Thanks in Advance
> Mark
> -- 
> "Friendship is unnecessary, like philosophy, like art . . . it has no
> survival value; rather it is one of those things that give value to
> survival." C. S. Lewis
> 
> Mark S. Siepak
>
>
> --
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