Re: book review?
Martha - I looked at this book when it first came out. My recollection is that the title of this book is an appropriation of the term 'biodynamics,' Fortunately, according to Amazon.com, this book is out of print. The following user review appeard at the Amazon site: This book is not about biodynamic gardening!!!, April 2, 1999 Reviewer: [EMAIL PROTECTED] from Tennessee Having used organic gardening methods for years, I became interested in Rudulf Steiner's BIODYNAMIC farming and gardening methods. I hoped that was the subject of this book. I was very disappointed. Nowhere does it mentions Steiner's methods. It is a good book for beginning ORGANIC gardeners, covering composting, natural pest control, etc. I don't know the history of this book, but its appearance presented a very excellent opportunity for Demeter to exercise their copyright on the word 'biodynamics' to make certain that the public was not presented inaccurate information about this very important topic. At ACRES USA we also saw amendment salesmen who had most definitely biodynamic product using the word to describe their line. Again, in the hope of minimizing confusion in the world, let's hope Demeter takes action. -Allan Has anyone read this book? If You Like My Apples by Clue Tyler Dennis Luke Miller Here is the blurb on it:
Radionics and Field Broadcasting was Re: Perfect Orchard
Hugh - Let's do it! -Allan Dear Per, We need a discussion on this. Radionics, is not exactly the same as field broadcasting. But they are related. I'll have to get back to this. In the meanwhile, any others like to have a go at this? Hugh Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
Re: book review?
Thanks Allan. I'll save my money. (Pinetree Gardens offers it at a deep discount ($3.95).)
Re: Radionics and Field Broadcasting was Re: Perfect Orchard
Now, I'm not going to even begin to try to explain field broadcasting, but (after it's explained), Per can come over to my place to see my broadcaster, if he wishes. He, by my reckoning, lives about 20 minutes from me. Essie At 06:40 AM 12/16/02 -0500, you wrote: Hugh - Let's do it! -Allan Dear Per, We need a discussion on this. Radionics, is not exactly the same as field broadcasting. But they are related. I'll have to get back to this. In the meanwhile, any others like to have a go at this? Hugh Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
sealant for cut tree limb?
Dear Folks, I just sawed off a dying limb from a tree today, and have the feeling it might be good to seal it with something. All I have to-hand, is boiled linseed oil, turpentine, and olive oil. Any of these serve the purpose (and what *would* be the purpose? it's just a gut feeling tht some sort of sealant might be desirable, I'm not knowledgeable at all on tree treatments). I'd appreciate a cc direct at [EMAIL PROTECTED] since I'm on digest, which will delay any info getting to me that way. Thank you kindly. -Lily
Perfect Orchard
We have the same stoney hardpan here in Hollis NH. A 2-foot deep chisel plow will get rid of it and leave all the topsoil in place. No need to resort to explosives (gelignite). - Original Message - From: Peter Michael Bacchus [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 4:49 AM Subject: Re: Perfect Orchard ?? Dear Per Now that you have given your location and soil description it is easier to make a suggestion. Have your soil chemistry analyzed by Brookside Lab. or similar then work on balancing your cation exchange to suit grape vines. Drain as mentioned and form up windrows to plant on. grape roots like to be warm. I would be a bit cautious about sheep and goat manure as they tend to make the ground harder, or at least that is my experience. Horse manure has the most soil loosening effect, followed by cow. This is of course to be composted and prepped. Then be generous with the Horn manure and barrel compost. You need to get the soil life going which means you may need to drain to avoid waterlogging at any time. If you really do need to loosen the subsoil mechanically I suggest that you look at gelignite, I have seen it used to good effect under trees that were stunted by hard pan. In this way the topsoil would remain on top. Go and have a look at what Steven Storch is doing and perhaps get some advice from him. Best of luck, Peter. - Original Message - From: COYOTEHILLFARM [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 1:36 PM Subject: Re: Perfect Orchard ?? I appreciate this comments, We are here permanently, Hardpan is very common in the Eastern US, in NH winery's are Uncommon. Gypsum has been suggested in the past but only a hand full of it in for each grape planting. Hardpan in the NH is a sand like product with a bunch of stones large to small, it act much like quicksand when water soaked, water have a hard time penetrate it and that's way I need to drain my fields as grapes do not like wet feet's. We do not have any clay, as far as what I have seen. On top of the Hard pan we have 1 to 2 feet's of good top soil Some time more some time less pending on location and past cow manure deposit. We have consider ripping the hardpan whit a 2-3 foot Hardpan buster type of equipment but have fund that it is harder to do a good job of that type of equipment, a 3x3 dug ditch seems more functional. ( But more costly) and then the gypsum can do it's job !? I plan to cover the rows with wood chips, (and add goat and sheep manure)as a soil help and to prevent grass and competition. (I like to see chickens and Guinea fouls in the fields) Please describe the full BD cycle. Thanks Per Garp/NH
It Takes a Community to Raise a Child--Compassion with Action in Support of Aurora Farm
Dear Friends and Family: We are writing at this time to ask for your assistance in supporting Aurora Farm. This is the time of year when seed sales count in determining how and if we can continue the real work of producing open-pollinated, heirloom, conscious seeds for the future. Last week my son, Nathan and I were involved in a motor vehicle accident enroute to Colorado where he is launching into his new life with his brother, Sky. I was to continue the journey into New Mexico and on to California, Oregon and Washington selling gift packets and taking orders for seed displays. Some of the funds were to go to set Nathan up in his new life. Others to fund Aurora Farm. As some of you may know Nathan is an intuitive and has channelled the Nature Spirits here at Aurora Farm from a young age. He also does land and aura readings . These gifts are common in the Indigo Children. We would very much appreciate your financial assistance(and no we are not Nigerian) in purchasing either gift packets or individual seed orders. Our catalog is now available . Please reply to us off list so we don't jam up BDNow. Nathan's email (he is now in Colorado) is [EMAIL PROTECTED] One last request, if there is anyone on the list who would have a market and be able to distribute 200 plus gift packets (with commission) please reply to us again off list. Looking for a more joyous and appropriate coming of age ceremony for Mother and Child. Blessings All May we All be Gone from Danger, and Have Gratitude for Life, Barbara and Woody Aurora Farm. the only unsubsidized, family-run seed farm in North America offering garden seeds grown using Rudolf Steiner's methods of spiritual agriculture. http://www.kootenay.com/~aurora -Original Message- From: Nancy Geffken [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sunday, December 15, 2002 3:33 AM Subject: RE: December 11, 2002 Global Temperature Near Record for 2002 Barry Carter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Please note that the IPCC projections mentioned below DO NOT take into account the possibility that the earth's climate can transition abruptly into one of many states. This is, increasingly, being viewed as a real possibility given what we now know about the planet's climatic past. I have been wondering how this may affect efforts to maintain and develop open-pollinated seeds - can our varieties keep up with the pace of climate change? The article in the last issue of Biodynamics Saving Seed Makes Sense by Brett Grosgahl described how it can take years of dedicated selection to get a variety well adapted to your individual growing conditions. If those conditions are swinging from extreme to extreme I don't know if genetic engineering will offer any solution - maybe if we move into periods of consistent drought or sub-normal temperatures, but can the labs breed seeds that will grow through the unpredictable and rapid changes? It underlines the ever-pressing need for o-p seed trials, to find those varieties which somehow manage to grow regardless of what nature may throw at them - and/or the need to plant multiple varieties in anticipation of all conditions. Go through the SSE Yearbook and look for the 100 year olds, the Never Fails, the Champions, the Wonders as a starting point. Biodynamics began with a need to revigorate seed stocks, and we still face that need today. Just wondering what the future may bring as I clean the last of the 2002 seed crops. Will these seeds make it through next year's conditions? Will they still be growing here 10 years from now? Nancy G. __ The NEW Netscape 7.0 browser is now available. Upgrade now! http://channels.netscape.com/ns/browsers/download.jsp Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Mail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/
Re: sealant for cut tree limb?
If you don't have a commercial sealant (Arbrex in Britain) to hand, you could scorch the cut (particularly the outer edge within the bark) with a blowtorch to stop 'weeping' and sterilise the tissues. Tony N-S. _ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
Re: Perfect Orchard - gelignite?
What is gelignite? How is it used? Where is it obtained? DS From: Peter Michael Bacchus [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 22:49:03 +1300 If you really do need to loosen the subsoil mechanically I suggest that you look at gelignite, I have seen it used to good effect under trees that were stunted by hard pan. In this way the topsoil would remain on top. _ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
Re: Perfect Orchard - gelignite?
Sometimes the dictionary is just what we need: Gelignite n. An explosive mixture, comprised of nitroglycerine, guncotton, wood pulp, and potassium nitrate. [GEL(atin) + Lat. ignis, fire + ITE.] Would probably work nicely to loosen soil, eh? Woody at Aurora Farm. the only unsubsidized, family-run seed farm in North America offering garden seeds grown using Rudolf Steiner's methods of spiritual agriculture. http://www.kootenay.com/~aurora -Original Message- From: Doug Jay Stewart [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Monday, December 16, 2002 10:44 AM Subject: Re: Perfect Orchard - gelignite? What is gelignite? How is it used? Where is it obtained? DS From: Peter Michael Bacchus [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 22:49:03 +1300 If you really do need to loosen the subsoil mechanically I suggest that you look at gelignite, I have seen it used to good effect under trees that were stunted by hard pan. In this way the topsoil would remain on top. _ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
Re: Perfect Orchard
Lloyd Charles wrote: . . . If you have low calcium soil, Lime is needed to restore the CEC balance and you will need a carbon source to hold and activate it. and later he wrote to Gil who had said, Calcium will come from the application of gypsum.: And leave almost as quick as it came! LIME is the way to get good calcium levels, When I was working with Hugh Courtney on test plots for the right-of-way, one of his suggestions was to add high calcium lime. I called around to all the the feed stores that sell lime and asked for a high calcium lime. None of the salesmen knew what I was talking about. They always sold dolomite and they really didn't understand anything about lime so they left it to me to choose. I chose hydrated lime, and they sold it to me. The blind leading the blind. Luckily, I only used it on two plots. Then when I got connected to someone who sold soil amendments for Bruce Tainio, Tainio Technology and Technique, a soil scientist recommended by Elaine, she gave me Calpril which is a prilled calcium carbonate 91`% and 1% magnesium, whatever prilled means from a company in Tonasket, WA. There's a series of mesh sizes on the bag. This one is probably overkill, but I was glad to get something that was the right thing... When you suggest lime to someone, you need to be more specific about what you mean. Can you do a rundown of limes that are available and what they are used for just to clarify what you mean when you say add lime? Best, Merla
Re: sealant for cut tree limb?
Dear Tony, Thank you for writing. So, if there's no weeping, perhaps nothing needs doing? Thanks also for the chuckle--of all the tools I've thought of needing/getting, a blowtorch never entered my mind ;) -Lily In a message dated 12/16/2002 4:45:36 PM !!!First Boot!!!, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Subj:Re: sealant for cut tree limb? Date:12/16/2002 4:45:36 PM !!!First Boot!!! From:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: CC:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent from the Internet If you don't have a commercial sealant (Arbrex in Britain) to hand, you could scorch the cut (particularly the outer edge within the bark) with a blowtorch to stop 'weeping' and sterilise the tissues. Tony N-S.
Re: sealant for cut tree limb?
Lily - Hopefully Jim Marquardt will verify this, but it is my understanding that sealers are out of vogue and that properly done pruning cuts should be left un-dressed. -Allan
Ferdinand's clay coating
Wasn't it Ferdinand who was coating his tree trunks in the wintertime with a mixture of cow manure and clay? Is anyone else doing this and if so, what are the benefits / results?
Re: Ferdinand's clay coating
OK, Woody - Let's hope you are really there...or here! -Allan Wasn't it Ferdinand who was coating his tree trunks in the wintertime with a mixture of cow manure and clay? Is anyone else doing this and if so, what are the benefits / results?
Re: Perfect Orchard
. - Original Message - From: Merla Barberie [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 7:34 AM Subject: Re: Perfect Orchard When you suggest lime to someone, you need to be more specific about what you mean. Can you do a rundown of limes that are available and what they are used for just to clarify what you mean when you say add lime? Best, Merla Good point Merla Aussies are renowned for being casual in their use of language, and I have to admit to being worse than most! On top of that we often use it differently than you do, so here's my lime story. # Agricultural LIME (your high calcium lime) is finely ground limestone rock - calcium carbonate - CaCo3 - the finer the grind the better - we look for 90% finer than 300micron, this gives a high neutralising value for acid soils and, we need to use less. This material is also called High Calcium Lime and has only a low amount, or nil, of magnesium. Its usually white to greyish off white but can have a pink or brownish tinge depending on the amount and type of soil or other rock contamination - use Ag LIME on loam and heavier soils,where on the CEC soil test calcium is low and magnesium is adequate (above 12% of total CEC) # Dolomite (often called LIME in your country) is a combination of magnesium carbonate and calcium carbonate - again a finely ground rock - only use this where there is a tested need for magnesium in the soil CEC. Thats only likely to be sandy and sandy loam soils. Excess dolomite will tighten up soils and burn out nitrogen so the fertiliser men love to see farmers using dolomite to neutralise acid soils, cause they will soon be back in the store to order heaps of bagged nitrogen. A lot of people use dolomite to good effect in homemade animal licks so yes its easy to find in the feed stores. # calcium oxide - is burnt limestone rock - hot stuff this - very active - it will burn you and your soil critters. #calcium hydroxide - burnt limestone hydrated (it takes in some water) this is your ordinary builders lime - can get this in any hardware store - its used for making mortar for bricks - not the effect we want in soil. It can be used ok in some circumstances in small quantities # There are a whole raft of commercial liquid calcium liquid lime products around. To me the common theme seems to be they are way expensive - and have a heavy advertising budget attached - calcium is a cheap base material to buy - calcium nitrate is not expensive (50 cents US per kg or litre) but put it in a plastic drum with fancy label and a little colouring agent and the price goes up by a factor of about five. The liquid limes - again in a fancy container with some of what looks like paint thinner /oil added to suspend it, it makes a real high price for what probably started out as a piece of rock. I am not arguing about the effect of these products on soils or growing crops, I just dont like them because of the massive markup. # Your prilled material sounds like it is fine ground, high calcium lime that has been reformed into granules to make spreading easier. Is this OK Merla - come back if you think it needs more Cheers Lloyd Charles
Re: Perfect Orchard
Lloyd - I take it that this is the 'dolomite' that Pat Colbey recommends as a free choice mineral supplement for livestock. Everyone - Is LIME what we would ask for to get 'dolomitic lime'? Is this something that one can buy with confidence at the coop or is it best purchased from an organic amendment salesman? Thanks -Allan # Dolomite (often called LIME in your country) is a combination of magnesium carbonate and calcium carbonate - again a finely ground rock - only use this where there is a tested need for magnesium in the soil CEC. Thats only likely to be sandy and sandy loam soils. Excess dolomite will tighten up soils and burn out nitrogen so the fertiliser men love to see farmers using dolomite to neutralise acid soils, cause they will soon be back in the store to order heaps of bagged nitrogen.
Re: Perfect Orchard
- Original Message - From: James Hedley [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 16, 2002 10:36 PM Subject: Re: Perfect Orchard Dear Hugh, Lloyd, Gil, Per Garp and others, Just to start the discussion rolling I agree that a field broadcaster is not Radionics. It is just one of the many tools available to try to influence subtle energy or force fields. OK guys - if its not radionics, what is it? We use radionically prepared homeopathic reagents in it, we can use it to do many of the same things that are done with a proper radionic instrument (broadcasting crows out of a paddock for example). I believe that the top well of a pipe could function as a radionic instrument does ie across time, space, unlimited distance. Do we need to agree on tight definitions here? Radionics to me is scanning analysis and treatment using variable rate instruments such as the Mattioda/ Rogers. There is much more of radiesthesia involved in the English system, but there is a huge area of overlap in all subtle energies from the ormus minerals through instruments of various types to classical biodynamic agriculture, all of these are treading the same patch of ground. Subtle energy is a step by step process for the newcomer. example- Its relatively easy to get across to an open minded person that we can take a polaroid photo of a field , animal, or whatever and capture the energy pattern on the metallic negative, then put that in the well of a radionic instrument and treat - the box has knobs and dials on , its ok for many people to go that far. Now tell that same person that we can use an old photo to treat a new problem and the eyes glaze a bit - we are into science fiction - time travel here to the newcomer. Another problem we have is where does our reality end (results) and our imagination start (what was going to happen anyway) I look forward to an interesting christmas break - this discussion could last into january easy Cheers Lloyd Charles
Radionics/ Broadcasters
Hi! Per Garp I can understand you being lost. We all started there. Radionics is a particular area of study, within the much larger field of Energetic Healing. Energetic Healing includes Reiki, Reflexology, Accupressure, Aromatherapy, Dowsing, Flower Essences, Gem Essences, Homoeopathy, Tissue Salts, Radiesthesia and many other studies. All of these look at an Organism as an energy body, rather than from a chemical or physical stand point. Organism may be human, animal, insect, plant or in the case of Agricultural Radionics, an area of land. Most of us on this list actually use both Radiesthesia and Radionics. Radionics is basically Radiesthesia with an instrument. Most of us use a pendulum to dowse our analysis of the organism, often also using a Radionic Analysis Instrument. This is Radiesthesia. We then use one or several Radionic Instruments. There are a huge number of different Radionic Instruments, but only a few in common use. Radionic Instruments use a representation of the energy of an organism or part of the organism. This may be a number, such as James referred to for moisture. I think that may be a Drown Rate. She was an early key player in Radionics. In Base 10 the Rate would be 0.28. In Base 44 we would use 19 08 30 33. We could also use Water Circulation (in the soil) 323678 or 18 38 27 30. Most of us also use a Malcolm Rae Instrument or several. These use a small card about the size of a small playing card, with a geometric shape with represents the energy imprint. (The Base 44 is also a Rae instrument.) With these instruments, we are analysing what is needed and then making a Cure, which is very much like a homoeopathic and may be in a liquid or a tablet. This may be sprayed on a crop or Broadcast using some sort of broadcast instrument. Some Radionic Instruments are also broadcasters. James is using a pyramid broadcaster he has developed. Hugh is ever developing his Field Broadcaster. I am working on The Atlantian Bed as a broadcaster and can be directly connected to a number of different types of Radionic Instruments. I also have a number of other broadcasters, ranging from small and simple to large and very complex. Just which instrument is used is dependant one the type of work and how many treatments are done at a time. Many Radionic Practitioners treat between hundreds to thousands of individual broadcasts at a time. This requires dedicated rooms, a sizeable investment and relies on good record keeping. Hugh is leading the way with taking BD and delivering it as an energy application, allowing him to support an much larger amount of land than could be done physically. It is this sort of work that in time has the potential to take on the chemical industry and to offer a real alternative. Gil
Re: Ferdinand's clay coating
OK, Allan, Here's what I wrote to Lily, offline: Lily: You'll probably get contradictory answers to your question about a sealant for the cut tree limb. My gut feeling is that none is needed, especially considering the season. I might feel differently if it were Spring and the sap was bleeding from the cut. There are good reasons, even so, to think in terms of a not-totally-waterproof sealing of cow manure, clay, or best of all biodynamic Tree Paste. Recipies for the latter can be found at our website. Woody at Aurora Farm. the only unsubsidized, family-run seed farm in North America offering garden seeds grown using Rudolf Steiner's methods of spiritual agriculture. http://www.kootenay.com/~aurora -Original Message- From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Monday, December 16, 2002 3:03 PM Subject: Re: Ferdinand's clay coating OK, Woody - Let's hope you are really there...or here! -Allan Wasn't it Ferdinand who was coating his tree trunks in the wintertime with a mixture of cow manure and clay? Is anyone else doing this and if so, what are the benefits / results?
Re: Radionics and Field Broadcasting was Re: Perfect Orchard
Essie, I told you that you would have information that are very interesting ! Please I would like to and I will bring some wine to. Thanks Per Garp/NH - Original Message - From: Essie Hull [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 16, 2002 08:51 AM Subject: Re: Radionics and Field Broadcasting was Re: Perfect Orchard Now, I'm not going to even begin to try to explain field broadcasting, but (after it's explained), Per can come over to my place to see my broadcaster, if he wishes. He, by my reckoning, lives about 20 minutes from me. Essie At 06:40 AM 12/16/02 -0500, you wrote: Hugh - Let's do it! -Allan Dear Per, We need a discussion on this. Radionics, is not exactly the same as field broadcasting. But they are related. I'll have to get back to this. In the meanwhile, any others like to have a go at this? Hugh Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
Re: Perfect Orchard
Hi Richard, From what I understand of grape vines and rot development of the grapes it needs more space than what a chisel plow will do, ( grape rots need to have their tap rot go down 6/8 feet? ) also you are only touching the surface of the hardpan digging will do a real trench, topsoil on the other hand and the problem that I have created with digging the trench, I Don't know god or bad ?? No need to resort to explosives (gelignite) What is gelignite it sound like a stone ?? Thanks Per Garp/NH, Loudon - Original Message - From: Richard Kalin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 16, 2002 10:20 AM Subject: Perfect Orchard We have the same stoney hardpan here in Hollis NH. A 2-foot deep chisel plow will get rid of it and leave all the topsoil in place. No need to resort to explosives (gelignite). - Original Message - From: Peter Michael Bacchus [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 4:49 AM Subject: Re: Perfect Orchard ?? Dear Per Now that you have given your location and soil description it is easier to make a suggestion. Have your soil chemistry analyzed by Brookside Lab. or similar then work on balancing your cation exchange to suit grape vines. Drain as mentioned and form up windrows to plant on. grape roots like to be warm. I would be a bit cautious about sheep and goat manure as they tend to make the ground harder, or at least that is my experience. Horse manure has the most soil loosening effect, followed by cow. This is of course to be composted and prepped. Then be generous with the Horn manure and barrel compost. You need to get the soil life going which means you may need to drain to avoid waterlogging at any time. If you really do need to loosen the subsoil mechanically I suggest that you look at gelignite, I have seen it used to good effect under trees that were stunted by hard pan. In this way the topsoil would remain on top. Go and have a look at what Steven Storch is doing and perhaps get some advice from him. Best of luck, Peter. - Original Message - From: COYOTEHILLFARM [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 1:36 PM Subject: Re: Perfect Orchard ?? I appreciate this comments, We are here permanently, Hardpan is very common in the Eastern US, in NH winery's are Uncommon. Gypsum has been suggested in the past but only a hand full of it in for each grape planting. Hardpan in the NH is a sand like product with a bunch of stones large to small, it act much like quicksand when water soaked, water have a hard time penetrate it and that's way I need to drain my fields as grapes do not like wet feet's. We do not have any clay, as far as what I have seen. On top of the Hard pan we have 1 to 2 feet's of good top soil Some time more some time less pending on location and past cow manure deposit. We have consider ripping the hardpan whit a 2-3 foot Hardpan buster type of equipment but have fund that it is harder to do a good job of that type of equipment, a 3x3 dug ditch seems more functional. ( But more costly) and then the gypsum can do it's job !? I plan to cover the rows with wood chips, (and add goat and sheep manure)as a soil help and to prevent grass and competition. (I like to see chickens and Guinea fouls in the fields) Please describe the full BD cycle. Thanks Per Garp/NH
Re: Perfect Orchard
- Original Message - From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 9:21 AM Subject: Re: Perfect Orchard Hi Allan Lloyd - I take it that this is the 'dolomite' that Pat Colbey recommends as a free choice mineral supplement for livestock. Yes Everyone - Is LIME what we would ask for to get 'dolomitic lime'? Is this something that one can buy with confidence at the coop or is it best purchased from an organic amendment salesman? Allan Be specific when you buy - if you want dolomite - ask for dolomite or dolomitic lime If your soil needs magnesium and calcium then ask for dolomite BUT you will probably only need a percentage of the treatment as dolomite and the rest will need to be high calcium lime - you will only need dolomite or magnesium as a soil amendment on light loam and sandy soils If you have soils from medium clay loam on you should not want dolomite so ask for high calcium lime and see an analysis of the product from where it is mined. Cheers Lloyd Charles
Re: Perfect Orchard
From what I've heard, the hardpan we have in New England is the result of improper plowing. When I put in a French Intensive garden 25 years ago, I dug down 30+ inches by hand. The hardpan was a 6 thick layer about a foot below the surface. Once I pickaxed through it, the digging got easy again, relatively speaking. Not having access to manure at the time, I refilled the trenches with a mixture of soil and leaves. I used to impress visitors with how I could push a bamboo garden stake 2-1/2 feet deep into the ground. Samuel Kaymen (Stony Field Farm Yogurt) introduced me to the chisel plow. He used it on a worn out piece of hillside and harvested 2-foot long carrots the next year. How far down is your water table? - Original Message - From: COYOTEHILLFARM [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 16, 2002 8:15 PM Subject: Re: Perfect Orchard Hi Richard, From what I understand of grape vines and rot development of the grapes it needs more space than what a chisel plow will do, ( grape rots need to have their tap rot go down 6/8 feet? ) also you are only touching the surface of the hardpan digging will do a real trench, topsoil on the other hand and the problem that I have created with digging the trench, I Don't know god or bad ?? No need to resort to explosives (gelignite) What is gelignite it sound like a stone ?? Thanks Per Garp/NH, Loudon - Original Message - From: Richard Kalin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 16, 2002 10:20 AM Subject: Perfect Orchard We have the same stoney hardpan here in Hollis NH. A 2-foot deep chisel plow will get rid of it and leave all the topsoil in place. No need to resort to explosives (gelignite). - Original Message - From: Peter Michael Bacchus [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 4:49 AM Subject: Re: Perfect Orchard ?? Dear Per Now that you have given your location and soil description it is easier to make a suggestion. Have your soil chemistry analyzed by Brookside Lab. or similar then work on balancing your cation exchange to suit grape vines. Drain as mentioned and form up windrows to plant on. grape roots like to be warm. I would be a bit cautious about sheep and goat manure as they tend to make the ground harder, or at least that is my experience. Horse manure has the most soil loosening effect, followed by cow. This is of course to be composted and prepped. Then be generous with the Horn manure and barrel compost. You need to get the soil life going which means you may need to drain to avoid waterlogging at any time. If you really do need to loosen the subsoil mechanically I suggest that you look at gelignite, I have seen it used to good effect under trees that were stunted by hard pan. In this way the topsoil would remain on top. Go and have a look at what Steven Storch is doing and perhaps get some advice from him. Best of luck, Peter. - Original Message - From: COYOTEHILLFARM [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 1:36 PM Subject: Re: Perfect Orchard ?? I appreciate this comments, We are here permanently, Hardpan is very common in the Eastern US, in NH winery's are Uncommon. Gypsum has been suggested in the past but only a hand full of it in for each grape planting. Hardpan in the NH is a sand like product with a bunch of stones large to small, it act much like quicksand when water soaked, water have a hard time penetrate it and that's way I need to drain my fields as grapes do not like wet feet's. We do not have any clay, as far as what I have seen. On top of the Hard pan we have 1 to 2 feet's of good top soil Some time more some time less pending on location and past cow manure deposit. We have consider ripping the hardpan whit a 2-3 foot Hardpan buster type of equipment but have fund that it is harder to do a good job of that type of equipment, a 3x3 dug ditch seems more functional. ( But more costly) and then the gypsum can do it's job !? I plan to cover the rows with wood chips, (and add goat and sheep manure)as a soil help and to prevent grass and competition. (I like to see chickens and Guinea fouls in the fields) Please describe the full BD cycle. Thanks Per Garp/NH
Re: Ferdinand's clay coating
G'day: There was a fair amount of research done a few years back at the U. of California at Davis that confirmed that it was more beneficial not to put sealant on a cut. The chances of having critters or disease encased in the sealant was greater than if not put on. It was important to have a good clean cut, at an angle that would not catch water or critters. I heard about it in a Master Gardener class at the time. Maybe there is more recent info, but I am not aware of it. Cheers Penelope Aurora Farm wrote: OK, Allan, Here's what I wrote to Lily, offline: Lily: You'll probably get contradictory answers to your question about a sealant for the cut tree limb. My gut feeling is that none is needed, especially considering the season. I might feel differently if it were Spring and the sap was "bleeding" from the cut. There are good reasons, even so, to think in terms of a not-totally-waterproof sealing of cow manure, clay, or best of all biodynamic Tree Paste. Recipies for the latter can be found at our website. Woody at Aurora Farm. the only unsubsidized, family-run seed farm in North America offering garden seeds grown using Rudolf Steiner's methods of spiritual agriculture. http://www.kootenay.com/~aurora -Original Message- From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Monday, December 16, 2002 3:03 PM Subject: Re: Ferdinand's clay coating OK, Woody - Let's hope you are really there...or here! -Allan Wasn't it Ferdinand who was coating his tree trunks in the wintertime with a mixture of cow manure and clay? Is anyone else doing this and if so, what are the benefits / results? .
Re: Ferdinand's clay coating
Here's an early BD Tree Paste recipe (preceded by a recipe for a tree wash spray) From: The Biodynamic Treatment of Fruit Trees, Berries, and Shrubs by Ehrenfried E. Pfeiffer (Available from JPI) Ad. 4. Tree Washing with No. 500 and equisetum tea, One portion, or unit, of No. 500 is suspended in 2 to 4 gallons of plain water or rain water. If chlorinated city water has to be used, let it stand for a few hours in a pan or bucket exposed to the daylight, if possible to sunlight. To this add a tea made from horsetail-equisetum arvense. Theoretically a total solution consisting of 2% of the tea would be best. There is, however, not enough equisetum arvense available. We have, therefore, made a compromise and suggest the use of an 0.5% solution. This means that the final wash or spray solution should have a (tea) strength of 0.5%. For each gallon of spray solution, 2/3 of one ounce of the dry herb has first to be measured out. Thus we would have: for 1 gallon, 2/3 of one ounce; for 2 gallons 1 and 1/3 ounce; for 3 gallons, 2 ounces ; for 4 gallons, 2 and 2/1 ounces. The required amount of the tea is just covered with water and brought to a boil, then allowed to simmer for 15 to 20 minutes (finely powdered or shredded equisetum arvense for a shorter time, coarse material for a longer time) to make a tea concentrate. The concentrate is then mixed with the suspension of the Preparation No. 500 in water, and well stirred for about 10 minutes. Then it is so sprayed into the tree that the solution covers the entire trunk and branches. This very same spray is used as a foliage spray to reduce fungus development, especially during a wet season (damping off, or mildew, for instance). Equisetum arvense contains a protective factor against fungus infection. The Preparation No. 500 stimulates the growth and renewal of the cambium - as well as doing this for the root when sprayed on the soil. This washing of the tree is recommended in all cases where the tree has a lot of loose, peeling bark, split bark, bleeding, lesions from pruning or breaking off branches, and especially recommended if the tree is covered with mold, mildew, lichen, MOSS. In the latter case it is a preparatory step to the application of the tree paste. Ad. 5. The B. D. Tree Paste Application. This has been, in our experience a most effective means of getting healthy trees with a smooth bark, healing lesions, and protecting the tree as much as possible against pests, especially those which hibernate underneath the bark, or in crevices - sucking insects, scale, aphis, wooly aphis, etc. That is, provided that the job is done right. The principle is that the entire tree, trunk, branches, twigs, buds, is thoroughly covered with the paste. Many of our biodynamic orchardists have covered only the trunk. This restores a healthy trunk. Yet many pests hibernate and lay their eggs on the outer twigs and near the buds - for instance bud borer, aphis, scale - and are in this case not counteracted by the paste. It is especially important that not only the under side of the branches is covered, but the entire branch, including the dead corners where the branching off takes place, and that no loose bark remains to give hiding places. Any lesion of the timber can be painted with the paste, which is a much better procedure than covering with tar, oil, asphalt, or paint, as is usually done. Holes in the trunk should be well cleaned out and then filled with the paste. If eggs, larvae, scale, are covered with the paste, it will exclude the air from them and they will perish. Since this paste is entirely harmless, and in no way toxic, it is an ideal means of protecting the tree and avoiding poisoning sprays. We have even sprayed it on the green foliage, when this was attacked by pests and fungi (rust for instance, or mildew), so that the leaves were entirely painted yellow. The rain washes it off eventually, and leaves recover with a healthy green. The original recipe for the tree paste was: 1/3 sticky clay, 1/3 cow manure, 1/3 fine sand. This mixture is approximate, for the sticking quality varies and the proportions have to be somewhat altered accordingly. As much water is added as is needed so that the paste can be easily applied and still will stick to the tree. To the solution can be added the Preparation No. 500, the equisetum tea (if needed), an extract of nasturtium plants against aphis, or other ingredients that one wants to apply. For many years it was the biodynamic practice to apply the paste, in solution form, with a whitewash brush, by hand, to the trunk and larger branches. Nowadays one finds few orchardists who want to paint a tree by hand with a whitewash brush, and we admit it is a rather messy procedure. But everybody is eager to use a pressure sprayer or spray rig. For a few individual trees, the hand application may still be the easiest. For a large orchard spraying is the only
Percy Schmeiser and the beast known as Monsanto
Percy Schmieser is the Canadian seed-saving Canola grower who was accused by Monsanto of stealing their patented Round-up Ready canola seed from them. Instead of bowing down before Monsanto, Percy, whose family has worked over 40 years to develop the strain of Canola that he grows, chose to fight Monsanto in court. His story is still open ended. The government has most definitely NOT supported rights that we all, perhaps erroneously, take for granted. Percy Schmeiser spoke at Acres this past Saturday evening. His honesty and humilty are undeniable. The horror of the situation he has been thrust into is unimaginable, as is the greed of Monsanto. After Percy's presentation, I don't think there was a dry eye in the house, nor anyone who wouldn't do all they could to make sure that everyone knows how underhandedly Monsanto deals with farmers and how the courts of Canada are under the influence of Monsanto. You can get a lot of information about Schmeiser at http://www.percyschmeiser.com Please tell everyone you meet about his plight and how Monsanto is working with world governments to contaminate the natural world so that everyone in the future will have to pay them huge sums for the use of their copywriten biology. -Allan
Re: Other than Jeavons?
Title: Re: WENDELL BERRY: The Agrarian Standard Thanks, Cheryl and David re: my whining about starting and finishing a basic biodynamics course in one late night. (www.oregon.com) Allan, you were right. Sorry I blasted you for inferring my ignorance when I joined the list. (Mind still blown, getting more so.) I was so backward I didn't know that I didn't knowMea culpa. I came to you guyswith a general picture of "biodynamic" as a good thing, but had not carried it to its obvious evolvement into the art/science of Biodynamics. Whew. It is like starting all over to learn the alphabet. Well, I'm starting with A-B-CEven myNative American background has not prepared me for what is to come. Now I plan to just lurk and listen for a spell. Thanks again for the help. Advice cheerfully taken. Patti, central Florida [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: What is Willard Water / human ingestion of the preps
Glen, Given your experience with them, I will assume there is some theraputic action for humans from them, and that the tinctures are different than water-potentized solutions. Did RS ever mention consuming them? Does their action seem centered around digestive process, either physical and psychical? As per Per's question about precaution, I try to wash up after BD500 and avoid getting it in the house, especially the kitchen, it being on the rotting side of digestion. I am much less worried about 501, it being on the ripening side of digestion, and will even spray it on houseplants. But these are my impressions and I am more fire and air type. Thanks, Chris --- Glen Atkinson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: How many bacteria or the like are going to survive an alcohol tincture process do you reckon? Are the spiritual activities of the soil and plant different to those active with humans? After 20 years of ingesting them on a regular basis I have no fear of them or their activity, in fact I believe them to be one of the simplest and best type of human health prevention and cure. A true gift by RS. cheers GA Chris Shade wrote: Allan, I feel the same way about preps for breakfast. They are a decomposed product mad for the decompostition zone (the soil). Yes, recompostition is a big part of plant feeding, but this stuff is still for the dark side. As per indications, they are meant to help the soil to help the plants gather these forces from the SOIL into the PLANT. On the other hand, though, the soilish effect could be altered by homeopathic potentising to specific levels. But, why not just make preparations along spagyric method lines, with the same plants, but meant, in origin, for human consumption. Maybe I am just square, but I won't put BD500 in my mouth. I did by accident once and it felt mighty strange. A more sensitive friend of mine got a drop slashed into his mouth and had all his throat glands swell up on him. Cheers, Chris --- Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: So Steve, I don't understand. If the preps are good medicine, why did steiner tell us to eat traditional foods that were grown in soils and atmospheres enlivened by the preps rather than to eat the preps themselves? Like most BD practitioners, I drink a gulp or so from every batch of whatever I stir, but, I'll tell you brother, I often feel more energy from a mouthful of BD kale than I do from a mouthful of bd501 stirred in water. My personal experience and my personal sense is that the preps are part of the bigger picture and not super medicine in and of themselves. The enliven soil and food in harmony with the totality of Nature and are not an end in and of themselves. Of course, I remain very interested in your sensibilities and your experiences. _Allan __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com -- Garuda Biodynamics - for BD Preps, Consultations, Books Diagrams See our web site @ http://get.to/garuda __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
