[BlindHandyMan] Fw: [VRStream] HumanWare Message - VR Stream and NLS Expanded DownloadPilot
Maybe a little off topic but, thought might be of interest to some. Phil Parr. - Original Message - From: Caroline [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Victor Reader Stream Discussion' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 8:27 PM Subject: [VRStream] HumanWare Message - VR Stream and NLS Expanded DownloadPilot Dear Victor Reader Stream Customer: NLS has recently began accepting applications from its patrons who wish to be part of an NLS expanded pilot project for downloading NLS digital talking books and magazines. To be eligible for NLS audio book service you must be a resident of the United States or be an American citizen living abroad who is unable to read or use standard print materials as a result of a temporary or permanent visual or physical limitation. Each individual must be certified first before accessing the NLS audio book services. To qualify for the expanded pilot project you must: 1) be an eligible NLS patron registered for NLS service by your local library; 2) have a computer and Internet connection to download and unzip the books; and 3) have a player capable of playing the books. The Victor Reader Stream is able to play the NLS books providing it is authorized to do so by NLS. There are 3 steps to the process to participate in the NLS expanded download pilot and authorize your Victor Reader Stream to play NLS books and magazines. Step 1 - Apply Online to NLS To apply for participation in the NLS expanded pilot visit: https://www.NLSTalkingBooks.org/DTB This page provides basic information about the NLS service and a link to the application form. Once you complete this online application form, you will immediately receive an email from NLS confirming that NLS has received the application. If you are approved to participate you will receive a second confirmation email with additional information. If there is a problem with your application you will also receive a message explaining the problem. A third NLS email will include a username, password, instructions for participation, and how to obtain help. Step 2- HumanWare will contact you If NLS approves your application to the expanded download pilot, they will also notify HumanWare. HumanWare will then contact you by email with a link to our web form where you will need to supply your player serial number. Please do not try to complete the web form until you receive our email as we will be unable to process your information. Step 3 - Sending the NLS Authorization Key to You After you complete the HumanWare web form HumanWare will respond within 2 working days with a second email. Attached to this email will be an NLS authorization key file to install on your Stream. The email will contain the installation instructions. After you install the key file, you will be able to play NLS digital talking books and magazines. To minimize any delays, please follow the steps in order, waiting on the prerequisite emails from NLS and HumanWare, and read carefully all the information and instructions in those emails. Thank you, The HumanWare Support Team -- The Victor Reader Stream list is owned by Bruce Toews (www.ogts.net) and Caroline Congdon (www.CarolinesKittyCorner.com). To find a list of frequently asked questions concerning the Stream, please visit http://www.humanware.com/en-canada/products/digital_talking_books/portable_cd_and_flash_player/_details/id_81/victorreader_stream.html To unsubscribe from this list, e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] If you have problems or concerns with the list, how it is being run, or your account itself, please do not e-mail the list about them or send test messages to the list. Rather, please send a message to the list owners at [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles
On the lever that the chain attaches to at the top, is there more than one hole that you could fasten the chain to. You might want to try to hook the chain further in or further out on the lever. I really dont know if that is even possible but is worth looking at. Good luck -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Chanting Monks Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 11:02 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Hi guys, Last week I had to replace the guts inside the tank. The rubber flap at the tank base, the chain and lever attached to the exterior flush handle, etc. With all new guts in the tank, when I flush, if I just push down the lever and let go instantly, the toilet starts to flush, then stops. If I hold down the lever for three to five seconds, then it works fine. I tried shortening the chain linking lever to flapper, hasn't helped. Leaving a little more play in the chain. Hasn't helped. It used to be just push the lever, toilet flushed fine, but now I can't figure out what might be adjustable that I could tinker with to get it to flush with just the old press and let go action. Any suggestions? I believe I opened the valve out of the wall to the tank right back to where it used to be, and it seems the tank is just as full as it always was, so it is just the issue of needing to hold down the handle that is bugging me. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Best, Joe Monks Chanting Monks Press [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] The Sparky has called in, and no problems!
G'day again Dave, Sally Listers, Good electrician's are hard to get in this country, they're all so busy. But, after a dozen or more phone calls, I finally found a Sparky with a little downtime and he called in at home this morning. He took a quick glance at my switchboard, then a quick peek at my machinery motors and the location where I want the power points and did aquick bit of measurement. His analysis was, no worries mate, it's a piece of cake! It's amazing what comfort the knowledge experience of a qualified tradesman can provide. His expert eye immediately saw what my ignorant brailling finger had failed to feel. The stippled plastic on the right hand side of my switchboard wasn't a nice design feature, but were two pull-out plastic tabs covering 2 extraspare unused trip switch slots. So, he'll just run 2 6mm cables from the board through the roof and install 2 20+Amp GPO's on the wall close to where I plan to put the Saw and extractor. Thanks Dave for all your help and assistance. The information and ideas you gave, really helped my understanding and explanations to the Sparky of what was required. Cheers, John M Melbourne Australia. PS: In the deepest depths of a Melbourne winter, it rarely gets below 7ºC (44.6ºF) so the likelihood of needing to run my 1500W fan heater often or long is fairly limited. PPS: Australian Standard wiring insulation colours for 3 pin 240V AC are now: Active brown (old red), Neutral blue (old black) and Earth yellow/green (old green). JDM From: dave and sally To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 10:54 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Correction: 50Hz, 240Volt, 15Amp power supply for 3HP Table Saw+1½HP dust extractor. hi john, ok then it sounds like you have a little bit of a problem should you have been doing this yourself. however a qualified spark should have no problems in sorting this out. it seems he has a couple of options open to him. lets assume that because you already have the lights and sockets in your garage sorted and they dont need to be changed. if he is only going to run a 20 amp circuit for your saw, he could tackle this in one of 2 ways. the first one would be to find the 15 amp fuses for the circuits that you use the least. possibly your bedrooms and living room area. he could piggy back these into one, because the diversity factor should keep you ok, as it is unlikely you will be using lots of power in the bedroom and in the living room at the same time. this would leave you a spare slot on your board and you could change the fuse or trip to a 20 amp one. or he could try and find the cables supplying the board and put 2 100 amp isco connectors on them, and bring out an extra set of tails to feed the new board. (isco connectors are single connector blocks designed for terminating cables which are carying high current, usually 60 amps or more). he may know these as something else, but isco is the common name here in the uk. if you are just running in a cable for your saw and extractor, considering the length, and the loading, you may get away with a 2.5 mm twin and earth cable, as this will cary up to 26 amps, but always keep into consideration future expansion. it may be worth while putting in a heavier cable as the biggest part of the price you are going to pay is for the sparks time. if you were here in the uk, you would even get away with putting in 2 2.5 mm cables in paralell, this would give you more current carying capacity, and you would be allowed to fuse this at 30 amps. another possibility is that he turns your existing garage circuit into what we call here in the uk a ring main. to do this, assumeing your existing garage circuit is wired with 2.5 mm cable or heavier, all he needs to do is create a ring main by running a similar sized cable back to the board and connect it into the existing slot on your board, and providing the new parts can be found, replace the 15 amp breaker with a 30 amp breaker. however this will restrict you for future expansion. as when you are using your saw extractor and 3 kw heater, you will be sitting around maximum load. hope this helps. any more questions just ask. by the way, what size of heater is it you want to use? Dave Sally.
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe
Robert, The cylinder bores would need to be checked with an inside micrometer. Those measurements could then be compared with factory specifications. Example, not actual specs. if your bore is 3.000 inches, and it is measured at 3.002 you might be able to hone it, but if it measures 3.060, it would be recommended to bore it to 3.010 or 3.20 depending on the over bore pistons that are available. They also check for out of round of the cylinder, and taper of the cylinder, if any of those are out of specs, it would be recommended to bore it. If the cylinders are out of spec, you can put rings in, but it won't last as long, it is hard to venture a guess as to how long. Other things to check would be the crank journals, cam journals and lobes, cracks in the block, heads for cracks, and valve guides. My machine shop would boil the block, and check out the parts for $20-$30. Good luck and keep us posted. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of robert moore Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 22:57 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe As far as goals for this engine, they are simple. I am not looking for more power or milage. If I get either, all the better. I am simply thinking that with 150K on the engine If I plant it in something I don't want to have to deal with some of the commen high milage failures after going to all the work to up root and transplant it. Things like leaking main seals, head gasket failures, and all of the anoiing coolant leaks that I had to deal with on my S10 last year. And I figure with new rings and bearings if done wright the engine should last a long time. So there you have it in a nut shell. Now for determining if the engine is too warn to hone what is involved in that and if it is too warn to hone then what does a fello do. If I am going to be looking at boring and oversizing the pistons then I will scrap the engine because for me at this time it would not be worth the money . there are a ton of these little 4.3 engines out there. The trucks are rapidly rotting out from undernieth good engines all the time. Thanks for your feed back. Robert -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Michael Baldwin Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 8:28 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe Robert, Yes they sell a rering kit for most engines, it usually comes with the main and rod bearings, piston rings, and all gaskets needed to do the job. You will need to buy the timing set separately. I get my engine kits from www.northernautoparts.com As far as honing, you can do that at home with a drill and hone, but it is possible your engine is to far warn to be honed. It depends on what your goals are with this rebuild. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of robert moore Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 18:26 To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe I am giving some thought to rebuilding the 4.3 that I am taking out of the Jimmy. Well actually rebuilding might not be the proper term. If I do this at all, and I don't know if I willl, I again will be doing it for the simple reason of the sence of accomplishment. I won't do it until next summer. No heat in garage and not a lot of room. But I digress. What I am really looking to do is freshen it up. I have a list of things in my head for what I think needs to be done when going through an engine like this. What I am looking at goes some thbing like this The things I think I would need to replace are all of the gaskets Head, intake, oil pan, valve cover Inside I am looking at rings, connecting rod bearings, front and rear main seals, I think also as long as it is out and easy to get at I should replace the timeing chain or belt. I think this one has a chain but not sure. Question is, Can I get a one stop complete kit for this type of job? Also have I missed any major category? As I am thinking about it I know I have failed to mention a few small things like throttle body base gasket thermostat housing gasket and so on but I can check the list later. Now my other question is about prepping the cilenders. Can I do this at home with a drill and a honing stone like I used to do in small engine shop or do I need to drag it to a shop. I am not looking at boring it out or going with an oversized cam or any of that Like I said Just want to freshen it up.
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe
Robert, If the cylinders have more than about .006 taper from top to bottom you will probably want to bore it. This will mean purchasing a new set of pistons in the correct over-size as well as a trip to the machine shop to have the block professionally machined. You will need to hit the machine shop for a few other precision measurements whether or not you need to bore your block. You will need to have the crank-shaft mains and rod journals measured to make certain it will hold a new set of Barings. You will also want the guy to measure the main baring thrust. This is a preset measure usually about .003 to .005 end play so that as the engine warms up and the parts expand the crank doesn't lock up in the block. When you get closer to tare-down time I know a few back yard tricks that will clue what trouble areas to look for. One more thing even in a basic motor refresh you will absolutely want to replace the cam, lifters and most especially the oil pump. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of robert moore Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 9:57 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe As far as goals for this engine, they are simple. I am not looking for more power or milage. If I get either, all the better. I am simply thinking that with 150K on the engine If I plant it in something I don't want to have to deal with some of the commen high milage failures after going to all the work to up root and transplant it. Things like leaking main seals, head gasket failures, and all of the anoiing coolant leaks that I had to deal with on my S10 last year. And I figure with new rings and bearings if done wright the engine should last a long time. So there you have it in a nut shell. Now for determining if the engine is too warn to hone what is involved in that and if it is too warn to hone then what does a fello do. If I am going to be looking at boring and oversizing the pistons then I will scrap the engine because for me at this time it would not be worth the money . there are a ton of these little 4.3 engines out there. The trucks are rapidly rotting out from undernieth good engines all the time. Thanks for your feed back. Robert -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Michael Baldwin Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 8:28 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe Robert, Yes they sell a rering kit for most engines, it usually comes with the main and rod bearings, piston rings, and all gaskets needed to do the job. You will need to buy the timing set separately. I get my engine kits from www.northernautoparts.com As far as honing, you can do that at home with a drill and hone, but it is possible your engine is to far warn to be honed. It depends on what your goals are with this rebuild. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of robert moore Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 18:26 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe I am giving some thought to rebuilding the 4.3 that I am taking out of the Jimmy. Well actually rebuilding might not be the proper term. If I do this at all, and I don't know if I willl, I again will be doing it for the simple reason of the sence of accomplishment. I won't do it until next summer. No heat in garage and not a lot of room. But I digress. What I am really looking to do is freshen it up. I have a list of things in my head for what I think needs to be done when going through an engine like this. What I am looking at goes some thbing like this The things I think I would need to replace are all of the gaskets Head, intake, oil pan, valve cover Inside I am looking at rings, connecting rod bearings, front and rear main seals, I think also as long as it is out and easy to get at I should replace the timeing chain or belt. I think this one has a chain but not sure. Question is, Can I get a one stop complete kit for this type of job? Also have I missed any major category? As I am thinking about it I know I have failed to mention a few small things like throttle body base gasket thermostat housing gasket and so on but I can check the list later. Now my other question is about prepping the cilenders. Can I do this at home with a drill and a honing stone like I used to do in small engine shop or do I need to drag it to a shop. I am not looking at boring it out or going with an oversized cam or any of that Like I said Just want to freshen it up. Let me know your thoughts. Robert Moore The sleep shade mechanic. Really I don't thingk of myself so much as a Mechanic, I call myself an automotive handy man. -Original Message- From:
Re: [BlindHandyMan] We got the house!
We ended up with 8%, but I honestly was not sure we would close until the last day. It has been nerve racking, but we love our house. Jennifer - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 11:29 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] We got the house! congrats! Many Happy days and memory making to you. What was your mortgage rate? The market must have made it a scarey ride. On Sun, 16 Sep 2007, Jennifer Jackson wrote: We closed on our house on Friday! We are very excited and incredibly relieved not to have to start the process over. Thanks so much for everybody's tips and encouragement during this process. Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] removing carpet
Hey Guys, We have carpet that has been layer on the concrete. How do I get up, the carpet tack strips that they use to hold the carpet? I do not want to damage the concrete as the plan is to stain it and use it as the flooring for a few years. Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles
Have you tried raising the water level in the tank? The last time I did a total replacement of all the parts in the tank I had the same issue. It was the water level. Try raising the water level. - Original Message - From: Chanting Monks [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 9:01 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Hi guys, Last week I had to replace the guts inside the tank. The rubber flap at the tank base, the chain and lever attached to the exterior flush handle, etc. With all new guts in the tank, when I flush, if I just push down the lever and let go instantly, the toilet starts to flush, then stops. If I hold down the lever for three to five seconds, then it works fine. I tried shortening the chain linking lever to flapper, hasn't helped. Leaving a little more play in the chain. Hasn't helped. It used to be just push the lever, toilet flushed fine, but now I can't figure out what might be adjustable that I could tinker with to get it to flush with just the old press and let go action. Any suggestions? I believe I opened the valve out of the wall to the tank right back to where it used to be, and it seems the tank is just as full as it always was, so it is just the issue of needing to hold down the handle that is bugging me. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Best, Joe Monks Chanting Monks Press To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information: http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe
Hi Robert, I believe everything you will need can be purchased at, www.SummitRacing.com This is where i go to purchase stuff for the pick up if the local speed shop can't get it. Rebuilding a engine is very money consuming. You will probably spend hundreds, if not thousands. This is just another thing to consider before beginning a project like this. I believe that with 150 thousand miles, you will probably have to replace most internal parts. But it is hard to say what you should replace without disassembling it. If the oil was changed every 3 thousand miles and it had a tune up at least twice, You would certainly be in allot better shape then if the oil was changed every 10 thousand miles and no tune ups at all. Either way keep us posted. Roger C Bachelder 3rd [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of robert moore Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 7:26 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe I am giving some thought to rebuilding the 4.3 that I am taking out of the Jimmy. Well actually rebuilding might not be the proper term. If I do this at all, and I don't know if I willl, I again will be doing it for the simple reason of the sence of accomplishment. I won't do it until next summer. No heat in garage and not a lot of room. But I digress. What I am really looking to do is freshen it up. I have a list of things in my head for what I think needs to be done when going through an engine like this. What I am looking at goes some thbing like this The things I think I would need to replace are all of the gaskets Head, intake, oil pan, valve cover Inside I am looking at rings, connecting rod bearings, front and rear main seals, I think also as long as it is out and easy to get at I should replace the timeing chain or belt. I think this one has a chain but not sure. Question is, Can I get a one stop complete kit for this type of job? Also have I missed any major category? As I am thinking about it I know I have failed to mention a few small things like throttle body base gasket thermostat housing gasket and so on but I can check the list later. Now my other question is about prepping the cilenders. Can I do this at home with a drill and a honing stone like I used to do in small engine shop or do I need to drag it to a shop. I am not looking at boring it out or going with an oversized cam or any of that Like I said Just want to freshen it up. Let me know your thoughts. Robert Moore The sleep shade mechanic. Really I don't thingk of myself so much as a Mechanic, I call myself an automotive handy man. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Don Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 9:48 PM To: blind handy man Cc: blindlikeme@ mailto:blindlikeme%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] This weeks shows. Hard too believe another week has gone by. Almost show time again. This week on the handy show, Don reads some mail we talk with Tom Houston, And we talk with our own handy man list member Jennifer Jackson. She will tell us all about her house buying experiences. Listen in and find out all about that. On the B L M show this week Phil talks with Jo Wilson. She has some interesting life stories too tell us about. Listen in too find out about those. Down load links follow. BHM http://www.sendspac http://www.sendspace.com/file/8ddkea e.com/file/8ddkea http://www.sendspac http://www.sendspace.com/file/8ddkea e.com/file/8ddkea BLM http://www.sendspac http://www.sendspace.com/file/kkagzn e.com/file/kkagzn http://www.sendspac http://www.sendspace.com/file/kkagzn e.com/file/kkagzn Are you can listen this week end on ACB radio main stream, are your favorite reading radio service around the states. and Canada. Have a fine week Don [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Bed off update
Hi Larry, Yeah I got some self locking screws for the negative connections. Along with some electrical grease for the brake connector clips. And i did sand the area where the negative wire grounds to the frame for the gas fill pipe. Sounds like you were pretty happy breaking your own time runs a couple of times before blowing the trans. frown. You'll get them next time! Roger C Bachelder 3rd [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry Stansifer Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 12:22 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Bed off update Roger, Got back from Phoenix late last night and have been reading your posts. You are right on with the new grade 8 hardware for your suspension. Suspension fasteners are just like toilet paper, reusing either one yields questionable results. The other thing that your Mom never told you is when you get ready to reconnect your electrics, Make absolutely certain that any place you have a ground connection it is free of paint, rust, under-coating or spider shit. Failure to do this will result in some of the most bazaar electrical problems you have ever seen. That Corvette broke its own record twice this weekend and then in the last round it broke its trans. I will let you guys know more after work and sleep. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Roger Bachelder Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 8:43 AM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Bed off update Hi Lee, I actually went to Milton Caterpillar and bought all new grade 8 Bolts, washers, and self locking nuts. You are absolutely correct about most bolts just being long enough. Every one except the u bolts. I think i got pretty lucky when it came to the wiring harness. most of the wiring lume was really clean, and the wires of coarse looked even better. Take care, Roger C Bachelder 3rd [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:Bachelder3%40verizon.net net _ From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lee A. Stone Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 8:55 AM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Bed off update Roger, my only question would be are you able to use all the original bolts as well as the nuts and lock washers or did you have to replace some ? I am sure you noted none of those nuts and bolts were extra long. everything just fits or seems to barely just fit. Oh, and did you find the wire harness's in good shape ? Lee -- Paranoia is heightened awareness. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio. http://acbradio.org/handyman.html org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio. ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday .org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail- http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information: http://jaws- http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws- users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws- users.com For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman- mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links -- BEGIN-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS -- Teach InfoWest Spam Trap if this mail (ID 124153057) is spam: Spam: https://spamtrap. https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=124153057m=f692 infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=124153057m=f692 2da3a613c=s Not spam: https://spamtrap. https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=124153057m=f692 infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=124153057m=f692 2da3a613c=n Forget vote: https://spamtrap. https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=124153057m=f692 infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=124153057m=f692 2da3a613c=f -- END-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] removing carpet
Jennifer I don't know if you have pulled up the carpet yet but if not, an idea you might want to consider is to cut the carpet into 3 or 4 foot wide stripps for easier desposle. The knife that we used had a blade that is bent at a 90 degrees angle. It is actually some what curved. The sharp part of the knife is on the inside of the curve. You dig it into the carpet and pull it tward you. It works pretty slick. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jennifer Jackson Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 8:25 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] removing carpet Hey Guys, We have carpet that has been layer on the concrete. How do I get up, the carpet tack strips that they use to hold the carpet? I do not want to damage the concrete as the plan is to stain it and use it as the flooring for a few years. Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe
Roger When this tbing was parked the engine was still running quite well and that is why I am not at all looking to do a major over haul. As I said I just want to take care of the things that could give me trouble down the road. Mostly the soft parts like seals and gaskets and I suppose a timing kit. Other wise the engine is fine. I am not worried about the crank and cam shafts or the pistons and connecting rods. With these engines as far as I know unless they have been starved of oil they don't ten to have a problem with things braking. robert -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Roger Bachelder Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 10:31 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe Hi Robert, I believe everything you will need can be purchased at, www.SummitRacing.com This is where i go to purchase stuff for the pick up if the local speed shop can't get it. Rebuilding a engine is very money consuming. You will probably spend hundreds, if not thousands. This is just another thing to consider before beginning a project like this. I believe that with 150 thousand miles, you will probably have to replace most internal parts. But it is hard to say what you should replace without disassembling it. If the oil was changed every 3 thousand miles and it had a tune up at least twice, You would certainly be in allot better shape then if the oil was changed every 10 thousand miles and no tune ups at all. Either way keep us posted. Roger C Bachelder 3rd [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:Bachelder3%40verizon.net _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of robert moore Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 7:26 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe I am giving some thought to rebuilding the 4.3 that I am taking out of the Jimmy. Well actually rebuilding might not be the proper term. If I do this at all, and I don't know if I willl, I again will be doing it for the simple reason of the sence of accomplishment. I won't do it until next summer. No heat in garage and not a lot of room. But I digress. What I am really looking to do is freshen it up. I have a list of things in my head for what I think needs to be done when going through an engine like this. What I am looking at goes some thbing like this The things I think I would need to replace are all of the gaskets Head, intake, oil pan, valve cover Inside I am looking at rings, connecting rod bearings, front and rear main seals, I think also as long as it is out and easy to get at I should replace the timeing chain or belt. I think this one has a chain but not sure. Question is, Can I get a one stop complete kit for this type of job? Also have I missed any major category? As I am thinking about it I know I have failed to mention a few small things like throttle body base gasket thermostat housing gasket and so on but I can check the list later. Now my other question is about prepping the cilenders. Can I do this at home with a drill and a honing stone like I used to do in small engine shop or do I need to drag it to a shop. I am not looking at boring it out or going with an oversized cam or any of that Like I said Just want to freshen it up. Let me know your thoughts. Robert Moore The sleep shade mechanic. Really I don't thingk of myself so much as a Mechanic, I call myself an automotive handy man. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Don Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 9:48 PM To: blind handy man Cc: blindlikeme@ mailto:blindlikeme%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] This weeks shows. Hard too believe another week has gone by. Almost show time again. This week on the handy show, Don reads some mail we talk with Tom Houston, And we talk with our own handy man list member Jennifer Jackson. She will tell us all about her house buying experiences. Listen in and find out all about that. On the B L M show this week Phil talks with Jo Wilson. She has some interesting life stories too tell us about. Listen in too find out about those. Down load links follow. BHM http://www.sendspac http://www.sendspace.com/file/8ddkea http://www.sendspace.com/file/8ddkea e.com/file/8ddkea http://www.sendspac http://www.sendspace.com/file/8ddkea http://www.sendspace.com/file/8ddkea e.com/file/8ddkea BLM http://www.sendspac http://www.sendspace.com/file/kkagzn http://www.sendspace.com/file/kkagzn e.com/file/kkagzn http://www.sendspac http://www.sendspace.com/file/kkagzn http://www.sendspace.com/file/kkagzn e.com/file/kkagzn Are you can listen this week end on ACB radio main
RE: [BlindHandyMan] removing carpet
It's possible to rent a concrete grinder which can be fitted with stones or scarifying wheels, but the ones I know about are heavy and quite hard to control under some circumstances. You could in other words do a lot of damage in a very short time, particularly if you couldn't visually apprehend the effects you were having with the machine. Somebody with eyesight though might be able to do this without too much difficulty. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- .From: robert moore[EMAIL PROTECTED] .Sent: 9/18/07 12:25:01 PM .To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com .Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] removing carpet . .Jennifer .I did this last summer. .What I used was a flat pry bar. It has a 90 degree bend on one end and a .slight curve on the other end. The one I used was about a foot long and I .suppose about 3 inches across and it is flat. Just slide the bar under the .stripps and pry up. You may need to give it a whack with a hammer in some .spots. The nails that stay behind should pop out fairly easy with the pry .bar or a claw hammer, for the most part. .When I did this I did not do any damage to the concrete. Now for how to get .a good finnish when you are done I am not sure.Maybee some one here has an .idea how to go about sanding or grinding the surface to give you a nice .smooth surface. . . .-Original Message- .From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] .Behalf Of Jennifer Jackson .Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 8:25 AM .To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com .Subject: [BlindHandyMan] removing carpet . .Hey Guys, . .We have carpet that has been layer on the concrete. How do I get up, the .carpet tack strips that they use to hold the carpet? I do not want to damage .the concrete as the plan is to stain it and use it as the flooring for a few .years. . .Jennifer . .[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] . . . .[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] . .
Re: [BlindHandyMan] The Sparky has called in, and no problems!
glad you got it sorted, and i was only to glad to give you some tips. Dave Sally. Buy and sell your surplus free, join our new mailing group by sending a blank email to. [EMAIL PROTECTED] Or find more details here. http://www.secretsthatwekeep.com/thebargainstore/invite.htm Want an audio book that will keep you glued to your headphones, check out the readers voice for the first time now. http://www.secretsthatwekeep.com/promo2 You won't be disappointed. - Original Message - From: John M To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 11:24 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The Sparky has called in, and no problems! G'day again Dave, Sally Listers, Good electrician's are hard to get in this country, they're all so busy. But, after a dozen or more phone calls, I finally found a Sparky with a little downtime and he called in at home this morning. He took a quick glance at my switchboard, then a quick peek at my machinery motors and the location where I want the power points and did aquick bit of measurement. His analysis was, no worries mate, it's a piece of cake! It's amazing what comfort the knowledge experience of a qualified tradesman can provide. His expert eye immediately saw what my ignorant brailling finger had failed to feel. The stippled plastic on the right hand side of my switchboard wasn't a nice design feature, but were two pull-out plastic tabs covering 2 extraspare unused trip switch slots. So, he'll just run 2 6mm cables from the board through the roof and install 2 20+Amp GPO's on the wall close to where I plan to put the Saw and extractor. Thanks Dave for all your help and assistance. The information and ideas you gave, really helped my understanding and explanations to the Sparky of what was required. Cheers, John M Melbourne Australia. PS: In the deepest depths of a Melbourne winter, it rarely gets below 7ºC (44.6ºF) so the likelihood of needing to run my 1500W fan heater often or long is fairly limited. PPS: Australian Standard wiring insulation colours for 3 pin 240V AC are now: Active brown (old red), Neutral blue (old black) and Earth yellow/green (old green). JDM From: dave and sally To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 10:54 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Correction: 50Hz, 240Volt, 15Amp power supply for 3HP Table Saw+1½HP dust extractor. hi john, ok then it sounds like you have a little bit of a problem should you have been doing this yourself. however a qualified spark should have no problems in sorting this out. it seems he has a couple of options open to him. lets assume that because you already have the lights and sockets in your garage sorted and they dont need to be changed. if he is only going to run a 20 amp circuit for your saw, he could tackle this in one of 2 ways. the first one would be to find the 15 amp fuses for the circuits that you use the least. possibly your bedrooms and living room area. he could piggy back these into one, because the diversity factor should keep you ok, as it is unlikely you will be using lots of power in the bedroom and in the living room at the same time. this would leave you a spare slot on your board and you could change the fuse or trip to a 20 amp one. or he could try and find the cables supplying the board and put 2 100 amp isco connectors on them, and bring out an extra set of tails to feed the new board. (isco connectors are single connector blocks designed for terminating cables which are carying high current, usually 60 amps or more). he may know these as something else, but isco is the common name here in the uk. if you are just running in a cable for your saw and extractor, considering the length, and the loading, you may get away with a 2.5 mm twin and earth cable, as this will cary up to 26 amps, but always keep into consideration future expansion. it may be worth while putting in a heavier cable as the biggest part of the price you are going to pay is for the sparks time. if you were here in the uk, you would even get away with putting in 2 2.5 mm cables in paralell, this would give you more current carying capacity, and you would be allowed to fuse this at 30 amps. another possibility is that he turns your existing garage circuit into what we call here in the uk a ring main. to do this, assumeing your existing garage circuit is wired with 2.5 mm cable or heavier, all he needs to do is create a ring main by running a similar sized cable back to the board and connect it into the existing slot on your board, and providing the new parts can be found, replace the 15 amp breaker with a 30 amp breaker. however this will restrict you for future expansion. as when you are using your saw extractor and 3 kw heater, you will be sitting around maximum load. hope this helps. any more questions just ask. by the way, what size of heater is it you want to use? Dave Sally. To listen to the show
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Leaking Batteries and What ToDo.
One other warning for ya. Do not leave batteries on your end tables. Tom did this a long time ago. The batteries leaked and ruined the finish, and left a big divot in the table. Luckily I had a book, just the right size, to cover the damage. Gee, why do you have this 1975 Readers Digest here?? Well ... Boop
Re: [BlindHandyMan] We got the house!
Nerve racking puts it lightly. In the Northeast of the country it's 6.39% one week, 8.0% the next and then 8.9 and 9.23 in the week after that. I figured I'd rather work to pay back bills than to put my house in jeapardy paying them off all at once. Best of luck to you! Now remember, your mortgage company has 60 days to get you a payment book. The government protects you for 60 days that the mortgage company can't give you a hard time for what they aren't doing. So keep in mind, they may say they are giving you a grace period but it is a government provided time in which; if they can't get the information of how to pay and where to pay and the payment booklet to ou; you do not have to pay until they get it right. So remember they make it sound like they've done you a big favor if they can't get it together. That's not a favor, and can't be counted as a favor when they say our one time consideration or anything like that. I've recently had it happen that IndyMac bank couldn't get it together to know where to put my payment, and get me a pay booklet to make my payment. So it wasn't that they were doing me a consideration that I couldn't pay for 90 days after closing. When they said it was a grace period and tried that one time consideration stuff when I called I had to set the rep straight. aAlso, find out if your mortgage service company charges you $9.95 every time you call to speak to a customer service person. That is why I didn't accept that their delay of service was a consideration as I knew the grace period is one that the banking industry wrngled out of the government and i wasn't going to pay just to beg for a place to send my money so my (industry caused) lateness wouldn't show up on my credit report. You do owe all of the money at the moment they get their act together, I guess you've already figured that out. Just something to watch out for. On Tue, 18 Sep 2007, Jennifer Jackson wrote: We ended up with 8%, but I honestly was not sure we would close until the last day. It has been nerve racking, but we love our house. Jennifer - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 11:29 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] We got the house! congrats! Many Happy days and memory making to you. What was your mortgage rate? The market must have made it a scarey ride. On Sun, 16 Sep 2007, Jennifer Jackson wrote: We closed on our house on Friday! We are very excited and incredibly relieved not to have to start the process over. Thanks so much for everybody's tips and encouragement during this process. Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical safety when plumbing with plastic
True about the trench and such. There is also some provision for attaching to a buried plate. BUT since I have moved and haven't unpacked all the books yet I can't find my code book so I can not quote chapter and verse. Ron - Original Message - From: NLG To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 8:58 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical safety when plumbing with plastic In my case, I asked the inspector the question about what to do if I couldn't drive the rod in because of hitting rock. He said that the rod didn't have to be driven streight down, it could be driven in at an angle or even layed in a trench as long as it was at least 30 inches deep. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 04:49 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical safety when plumbing with plastic As Dale suggests, there are places where you can't drive an 8 foot rod deep enough, My colleague Bill Gerrey lives in a section of San Francisco where there is a layer of serpentine rock maybe 4 feet below the surface of the ground, and apparrently it's nearly impossible to get through. A friend tried to drive a ground rod through it for ham antenna safety purposes and when they hit the rock the sledge nearly bounced back in his face because the rod just wouldn't go down further. don't know what the code requires for electrical grounding in that case, probably a number of shorter rods. to drive a rod that's taller than you are without a ladder, you use a large chunk of pipe with a cap on one end. You stand the rod where you want it, put the capped pipe over the top and stand next it. You raise the capped pipe with one hand while holding the rod further down with the other, and let the pipe fall on top the rod. Starts slow, and takes a while in hard ground, but beats sledging from top of a ladder. Of course after you get down a ways, you have to switch to a sledge because the pipe hits the earth. tom Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical safety when plumbing with plastic
Would we like to talk about water jetting a ground rod down? One first punches a hole in the ground with the ground rod. Don't be too aggressive and get it stuck. Then fill the hole with water and punch the rod up and down untill it becomes difficult pull the rod out and add more water. Repeating this will really suprise you how far down one can get a rod and never use the sledge hammer. There is of course some variances in soil, but water is pretty cheap and you don't have to get a ladder. This can also work for steel posts. Ron - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 3:49 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical safety when plumbing with plastic As Dale suggests, there are places where you can't drive an 8 foot rod deep enough, My colleague Bill Gerrey lives in a section of San Francisco where there is a layer of serpentine rock maybe 4 feet below the surface of the ground, and apparrently it's nearly impossible to get through. A friend tried to drive a ground rod through it for ham antenna safety purposes and when they hit the rock the sledge nearly bounced back in his face because the rod just wouldn't go down further. don't know what the code requires for electrical grounding in that case, probably a number of shorter rods. to drive a rod that's taller than you are without a ladder, you use a large chunk of pipe with a cap on one end. You stand the rod where you want it, put the capped pipe over the top and stand next it. You raise the capped pipe with one hand while holding the rod further down with the other, and let the pipe fall on top the rod. Starts slow, and takes a while in hard ground, but beats sledging from top of a ladder. Of course after you get down a ways, you have to switch to a sledge because the pipe hits the earth. tom Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Leaking Batteries and What ToDo.
hahahaha I like the beginning of this. But I must say, that the industrial batteries I use in my teleportation device; (yes I am from the other side, the advanced side, of the galaxy) use these batteries and I think they are much safer than standard type for any gear for which we care. Best Regards, (and chuckles) On Fri, 21 Sep 2007, Ray Boyce wrote: Unless you have just arrived from the other side of the galaxy (where such problems do not exist), you know that so-called 'leak-proof' batteries (even those with fancy warranties and high budget advertising) sometimes leak. This is a lot less common with modern technologies than with the carbon-zinc cells of the good old days, but still can happen. It is always good advice to remove batteries from equipment when not being used for an extended period of time. Dead batteries also seem to be more prone to leakage than fresh ones (in some cases because the casing material is depleted in the chemical reaction which generates electricity and thus gets thinner or develops actual holes). In most cases, the actual stuff that leaks from a battery is not 'battery acid' but rather some other chemical. For example, alkaline batteries are so called because their electrolyte is an alkaline material - just the opposite in reactivity from an acid. Usually it is not particularly reactive (but isn't something you would want to eat). One exception is the lead-acid type where the liquid inside is sulfuric acid of varying degrees of strength depending on charge. This is nasty and should be neutralized with an alkaline material like baking soda before being cleaned up. Fortunately, these sealed lead-acid battery packs rarely leak (though I did find one with a scary looking bulging case, probably due to overcharging - got rid of that in a hurry). Nickel Cadmium cells contain so-called heavy metal compounds which are also bad for you if you feast on them but can be safely cleaned up without harm. Scrape dried up battery juice from the battery compartment and contacts with a plastic or wooden stick and/or wipe any liquid up first with a dry paper towel. Then use a damp paper towel to pick up as much residue as possible. Dispose of the dirty towels promptly. If the contacts are corroded, use fine sandpaper or a small file to remove the corrosion and brighten the metal. Do not use an emery board, emery paper, or steel wool as any of these will leave conductive particles behind which will be difficult to remove. If the contacts are eaten through entirely, you will have to improvise alternative contacts or obtain replacements. Sometimes the corrosion extends to the solder and circuit board traces as well and some additional repairs may be needed - possible requiring disassembly to gain access to the wiring. Don't forget that many batteries do come with explicit or implicit warranties against leakage (and resulting damage) which cover the equipment they are in as well. Thus, you may be able to obtain a replacement device from the battery manufacturer for at most shipping charges. I don't know if this extends to expensive products like palmtop computers :-).
Re: [BlindHandyMan] removing carpet
You'll be having your kids wear knee pads all day? Only plastic dishes right? Unless new concrete isn't as hard as what I remember, man that is gonna be *hard living. No kidding, Best of luck. They have be down with adhesive, you're not going to hurt the concrete,. On Tue, 18 Sep 2007, Jennifer Jackson wrote: Hey Guys, We have carpet that has been layer on the concrete. How do I get up, the carpet tack strips that they use to hold the carpet? I do not want to damage the concrete as the plan is to stain it and use it as the flooring for a few years. Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles
Hi Bryce, How high should the level be. Right now, the flush handle is approx three inches beneath the lip of the open tank, and the water level is about half an inch beneath it. The flush handle is seated in a little plastic housing, but it isn't watertight by any stretch. I'm not sure I can raise the level much more without risking water leaking out of the flush handle channel. Do you know if there is a line on the inside of tanks I can have my wife check for that denotes the level? Thanks. Best, Joe Monks Every day you haven't written is a day you've written off... Chanting Monks Press http://www.chantingmonks.com Sight Unseen Pictures http://www.sightunseenpictures.com - Original Message - From: Brice Mijares [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 10:08 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Have you tried raising the water level in the tank? The last time I did a total replacement of all the parts in the tank I had the same issue. It was the water level. Try raising the water level. - Original Message - From: Chanting Monks [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 9:01 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Hi guys, Last week I had to replace the guts inside the tank. The rubber flap at the tank base, the chain and lever attached to the exterior flush handle, etc. With all new guts in the tank, when I flush, if I just push down the lever and let go instantly, the toilet starts to flush, then stops. If I hold down the lever for three to five seconds, then it works fine. I tried shortening the chain linking lever to flapper, hasn't helped. Leaving a little more play in the chain. Hasn't helped. It used to be just push the lever, toilet flushed fine, but now I can't figure out what might be adjustable that I could tinker with to get it to flush with just the old press and let go action. Any suggestions? I believe I opened the valve out of the wall to the tank right back to where it used to be, and it seems the tank is just as full as it always was, so it is just the issue of needing to hold down the handle that is bugging me. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Best, Joe Monks Chanting Monks Press To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information: http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles
Joe, Most toilets I have even seen have a pipe inside which allows water to drain should the tank want to overflow. TAke a look and see if there is a 1/2 or so pipe standing up insie the tank. If so, just below the top of that pipe should be the proper level. Cy, the Ancient Okie _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chanting Monks Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 2:25 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Hi Bryce, How high should the level be. Right now, the flush handle is approx three inches beneath the lip of the open tank, and the water level is about half an inch beneath it. The flush handle is seated in a little plastic housing, but it isn't watertight by any stretch. I'm not sure I can raise the level much more without risking water leaking out of the flush handle channel. Do you know if there is a line on the inside of tanks I can have my wife check for that denotes the level? Thanks. Best, Joe Monks Every day you haven't written is a day you've written off... Chanting Monks Press HYPERLINK http://www.chantingmonks.comhttp://www.chanting-monks.com Sight Unseen Pictures HYPERLINK http://www.sightunseenpictures.comhttp://www.sightuns-eenpictures.-com - Original Message - From: Brice Mijares HYPERLINK mailto:bricem%40charter.net[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 10:08 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Have you tried raising the water level in the tank? The last time I did a total replacement of all the parts in the tank I had the same issue. It was the water level. Try raising the water level. - Original Message - From: Chanting Monks HYPERLINK mailto:editor%40chantingmonks.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 9:01 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Hi guys, Last week I had to replace the guts inside the tank. The rubber flap at the tank base, the chain and lever attached to the exterior flush handle, etc. With all new guts in the tank, when I flush, if I just push down the lever and let go instantly, the toilet starts to flush, then stops. If I hold down the lever for three to five seconds, then it works fine. I tried shortening the chain linking lever to flapper, hasn't helped. Leaving a little more play in the chain. Hasn't helped. It used to be just push the lever, toilet flushed fine, but now I can't figure out what might be adjustable that I could tinker with to get it to flush with just the old press and let go action. Any suggestions? I believe I opened the valve out of the wall to the tank right back to where it used to be, and it seems the tank is just as full as it always was, so it is just the issue of needing to hold down the handle that is bugging me. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Best, Joe Monks Chanting Monks Press To listen to the show archives go to link HYPERLINK http://acbradio.org/handyman.htmlhttp://acbradio.-org/handyman.-html or HYPERLINK ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ftp://ftp.acbradio.-org/ acbradio--archives/-handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. HYPERLINK http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturdayhttp://www.acbrad io-.org/news/-xml/podcast.-php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: HYPERLINK http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/http://www.jaws--users.com/-handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address HYPERLINK http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/http://www.mail- -archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information: HYPERLINK http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.comhttp: //jaws--users.com/-mailman/listinfo-/blind-computing-_jaws-users.-com For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] -.com Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1015 - Release Date: 9/18/2007 11:53 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1015 - Release Date: 9/18/2007 11:53 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] plumbing delemna
Hi, I want to state this clearly so you guys have the clearest picture of what is up and the thread doesn't die in confusion with me short of an answer. I have a tiled shower stall. No tub there, just stall all tiled. There are two separate faucets and one standard shower head. On the other side of the wall, there is a service door I can access.I've been in and I see two shut offs. I see what seems to be rough concrete, and wall studs. I've replaced washers both delta and standard before. The shower leaks, drips, and I want to stop wasting water. So I turn off the water. I unscrew the handle of the hot water, as it is determined that when the hot is on, the drip starts again. The cold is off for safety. I remove the hot handle, and the chrome cover beneath that, (it is a hide the hole cover) and the threading that keeps the cover on the stem. Now normally on something like a utility tub, or outside faucet; the next thing is to wrench out the threaded stem assembly at the bottom of which there is a washer. i would then fit it to an assortment of washers I have replace it with some teflon tape and be done. I put some vice grips on the visible not and tried to turn out the stem. No go. I tried again, and still no go. I even chipped the tile a little. Before I go buying specialized tools, getting penitrating oil down the wall, or break anything Is there another kind, or am I missing something very obvious? The ceramic tile, the length of the stem, and the tightness of the assembly make me less than confident to try past what I've already done. What am I missing, other than a brain? Thanks
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe
OK OK I give. Crying Uncle. If this was an old 283 or 327 or maybe an old 400 wild cat like the one sitting out in the shed in the 61 Buic LaSaber I might think I may want to persue this project. No advice needed on the Buick since it is not mine and not ever likely to become mine. I am starting to think that this motor is not worth the expense. On the other hand what do you guys think about leaving the gutts well enough alone and just changing the gaskets in order to prolong any risk of leaking coolant or oil and such. I just thought since it will be out in the open I would cover some of the basics with out getting too far into it. My last option, and who knows maybe my best option at this point is to just leave well enough alone. Don't get me wrong I am not getting afraid of this project I am just trying to way the cost and effort with the potential pay off. Since I don't even yet have a destination for this engine. Thank you all for the great feed back. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Larry Stansifer Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 6:15 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe Robert, If the cylinders have more than about .006 taper from top to bottom you will probably want to bore it. This will mean purchasing a new set of pistons in the correct over-size as well as a trip to the machine shop to have the block professionally machined. You will need to hit the machine shop for a few other precision measurements whether or not you need to bore your block. You will need to have the crank-shaft mains and rod journals measured to make certain it will hold a new set of Barings. You will also want the guy to measure the main baring thrust. This is a preset measure usually about .003 to .005 end play so that as the engine warms up and the parts expand the crank doesn't lock up in the block. When you get closer to tare-down time I know a few back yard tricks that will clue what trouble areas to look for. One more thing even in a basic motor refresh you will absolutely want to replace the cam, lifters and most especially the oil pump. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of robert moore Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 9:57 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe As far as goals for this engine, they are simple. I am not looking for more power or milage. If I get either, all the better. I am simply thinking that with 150K on the engine If I plant it in something I don't want to have to deal with some of the commen high milage failures after going to all the work to up root and transplant it. Things like leaking main seals, head gasket failures, and all of the anoiing coolant leaks that I had to deal with on my S10 last year. And I figure with new rings and bearings if done wright the engine should last a long time. So there you have it in a nut shell. Now for determining if the engine is too warn to hone what is involved in that and if it is too warn to hone then what does a fello do. If I am going to be looking at boring and oversizing the pistons then I will scrap the engine because for me at this time it would not be worth the money . there are a ton of these little 4.3 engines out there. The trucks are rapidly rotting out from undernieth good engines all the time. Thanks for your feed back. Robert -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ]On Behalf Of Michael Baldwin Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 8:28 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe Robert, Yes they sell a rering kit for most engines, it usually comes with the main and rod bearings, piston rings, and all gaskets needed to do the job. You will need to buy the timing set separately. I get my engine kits from www.northernautoparts.com As far as honing, you can do that at home with a drill and hone, but it is possible your engine is to far warn to be honed. It depends on what your goals are with this rebuild. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of robert moore Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 18:26 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe I am giving some thought to rebuilding the 4.3 that I am taking
RE: [BlindHandyMan] removing carpet
Hey, it's not like they said that they didn't own any rugs. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 11:58 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] removing carpet You'll be having your kids wear knee pads all day? Only plastic dishes right? Unless new concrete isn't as hard as what I remember, man that is gonna be *hard living. No kidding, Best of luck. They have be down with adhesive, you're not going to hurt the concrete,. On Tue, 18 Sep 2007, Jennifer Jackson wrote: Hey Guys, We have carpet that has been layer on the concrete. How do I get up, the carpet tack strips that they use to hold the carpet? I do not want to damage the concrete as the plan is to stain it and use it as the flooring for a few years. Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles
Hi Cy, I just discovered the little bar on the interior of the tank that attaches to the flush handle has three holes for chain adjustment. None seems to make any difference. Shortening the chain a half inch seems to allow a little more water to flow out prior to the flapper closing again and the flushing action stopping, but didn't fix the problem. I tested the water level and as you said, there is a pipe to keep from the tank overfilling and the water level is about 3/4 of an inch right beneath the lip, at the notch for it. Back to square one...the toilet is haunted. :P Best, Joe Monks Every day you haven't written is a day you've written off... Chanting Monks Press http://www.chantingmonks.com Sight Unseen Pictures http://www.sightunseenpictures.com - Original Message - From: Cy Selfridge [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 3:37 PM Subject: [PHISHING]: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles --- Panda Antivirus + Firewall 2007 has detected that this email could be spoofed Take maximum precautions, as spoofed emails could be the sign of a fraud attempt. --- Joe, Most toilets I have even seen have a pipe inside which allows water to drain should the tank want to overflow. TAke a look and see if there is a 1/2 or so pipe standing up insie the tank. If so, just below the top of that pipe should be the proper level. Cy, the Ancient Okie _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chanting Monks Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 2:25 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Hi Bryce, How high should the level be. Right now, the flush handle is approx three inches beneath the lip of the open tank, and the water level is about half an inch beneath it. The flush handle is seated in a little plastic housing, but it isn't watertight by any stretch. I'm not sure I can raise the level much more without risking water leaking out of the flush handle channel. Do you know if there is a line on the inside of tanks I can have my wife check for that denotes the level? Thanks. Best, Joe Monks Every day you haven't written is a day you've written off... Chanting Monks Press HYPERLINK http://www.chantingmonks.comhttp://www.chanting-monks.com Sight Unseen Pictures HYPERLINK http://www.sightunseenpictures.comhttp://www.sightuns-eenpictures.-com - Original Message - From: Brice Mijares HYPERLINK mailto:bricem%40charter.net[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 10:08 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Have you tried raising the water level in the tank? The last time I did a total replacement of all the parts in the tank I had the same issue. It was the water level. Try raising the water level. - Original Message - From: Chanting Monks HYPERLINK mailto:editor%40chantingmonks.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 9:01 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Hi guys, Last week I had to replace the guts inside the tank. The rubber flap at the tank base, the chain and lever attached to the exterior flush handle, etc. With all new guts in the tank, when I flush, if I just push down the lever and let go instantly, the toilet starts to flush, then stops. If I hold down the lever for three to five seconds, then it works fine. I tried shortening the chain linking lever to flapper, hasn't helped. Leaving a little more play in the chain. Hasn't helped. It used to be just push the lever, toilet flushed fine, but now I can't figure out what might be adjustable that I could tinker with to get it to flush with just the old press and let go action. Any suggestions? I believe I opened the valve out of the wall to the tank right back to where it used to be, and it seems the tank is just as full as it always was, so it is just the issue of needing to hold down the handle that is bugging me. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Best, Joe Monks Chanting Monks Press To listen to the show archives go to link HYPERLINK http://acbradio.org/handyman.htmlhttp://acbradio.-org/handyman.-html or HYPERLINK ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ftp://ftp.acbradio.-org/ acbradio--archives/-handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. HYPERLINK http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturdayhttp://www.acbrad io-.org/news/-xml/podcast.-php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles
You can't usually raise the water level, there is an overflow tube that's part of the tank's mechanism which sets the water level. It seems to me that some of the rubber flapper valves are supposed to float after being pulled up. That would make the flapper stay away from the seat till the water drains out. It may be that some others don't float, this is possibly a means of letting you do a minimal flush for small deposites by just holding the flush handle for a moment. You could attach a pingpong ball or some other floating object to the chain just above the flapper valve, that might help let it float. However you'd have to be sure the buoyancy wasn't enough to open the flapper whether or not you pull the chain. See if the flapper is hollow? that may be an indication whether it's supposed to float or not. Very possibly it's just the air that's supposed to be inside the flapper is not staying inside. Tom
Re: [BlindHandyMan] removing carpet
If there are adhesives involved, you could also use a tyle remover, which is a wheeled machine, sort of like a floor sander, but with a sharp vibrating/reciprocating blade on the front. Ive also known of people using co2 fire extinguishers to fast freeze and chip off glue in small areas. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- .From: [EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] .Sent: 9/18/07 1:58:09 PM .To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com .Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] removing carpet . .You'll be having your kids wear knee pads all day? .Only plastic dishes right? .Unless new concrete isn't as hard as what I remember, man that is gonna be .*hard living. .No kidding, Best of luck. .They have be down with adhesive, you're not going to hurt the concrete,. . . .On Tue, 18 Sep 2007, Jennifer Jackson wrote: . . Hey Guys, . . We have carpet that has been layer on the concrete. How do I get up, the carpet tack strips that they use to hold the carpet? I do not want to damage the concrete as the plan is to stain it and use it as the flooring for a few years. . . . Jennifer . . . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] . . .
Re: [BlindHandyMan] removing carpet
Hi Jennifer, Just to add to what Robert has said, if they did indeed use nails to lay the tack strips down, you can get a cement filler from Home Depot or Lowes to plug up the holes so they aren't so visible. They come in Caulk tubes, and you use a caulking gun to apply it into the holes. You then take a putty knife to it to smooth it out. I used this same stuff not too long ago to plug up some holes in the brick work around my house to plug any leaks coming in. Victor Gouveia
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles
Thanks, Tom, I'm going to have to reexamine the flapper. The whole thing is new, the landlord bought the interior guts, so I never got a real good feel of it to see if it was exactly the same as teh old one. And you're probably right about the flushing options being a water saving mechanism. No matter where I adjust the chain in the three holes on the bar, the flapper closes pretty quickly. Makes me suspect that those adjustments aren't necessarily meant to change the flow all that significantly. Back to the porcelain... Best, Joe Monks Every day you haven't written is a day you've written off... Chanting Monks Press http://www.chantingmonks.com Sight Unseen Pictures http://www.sightunseenpictures.com - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 4:50 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles You can't usually raise the water level, there is an overflow tube that's part of the tank's mechanism which sets the water level. It seems to me that some of the rubber flapper valves are supposed to float after being pulled up. That would make the flapper stay away from the seat till the water drains out. It may be that some others don't float, this is possibly a means of letting you do a minimal flush for small deposites by just holding the flush handle for a moment. You could attach a pingpong ball or some other floating object to the chain just above the flapper valve, that might help let it float. However you'd have to be sure the buoyancy wasn't enough to open the flapper whether or not you pull the chain. See if the flapper is hollow? that may be an indication whether it's supposed to float or not. Very possibly it's just the air that's supposed to be inside the flapper is not staying inside. Tom
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles
Joe, First of all let me say that I am glad this is *your* toilet and not mine. (LOL) Try this, just list up the flapper until it is about at a 45 degree angle and count to about 2 then let it go. See if the toilet flushes correctly. If the flapper allows all but perhaps a half inch of water to go down and the toilet still does not flush correctly you might well wonder what is down in the drain. One of my sons, Clueless, the Brainless Wonder, dropped a rat tail comb in the toilet and then flushed the blamed thing down. Well, of course, it did not go all the way down and I could not get it out but I did manage to get it past the place where it was caught. During the time the comb was hung the toilet would not make all of those wonderful sounds which tell you all is well. It is possible that there really is something in the pipes? Cy, the Ancient Okie... _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chanting Monks Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 3:38 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Hi Cy, I just discovered the little bar on the interior of the tank that attaches to the flush handle has three holes for chain adjustment. None seems to make any difference. Shortening the chain a half inch seems to allow a little more water to flow out prior to the flapper closing again and the flushing action stopping, but didn't fix the problem. I tested the water level and as you said, there is a pipe to keep from the tank overfilling and the water level is about 3/4 of an inch right beneath the lip, at the notch for it. Back to square one...the toilet is haunted. :P Best, Joe Monks Every day you haven't written is a day you've written off... Chanting Monks Press HYPERLINK http://www.chantingmonks.comhttp://www.chanting-monks.com Sight Unseen Pictures HYPERLINK http://www.sightunseenpictures.comhttp://www.sightuns-eenpictures.-com - Original Message - From: Cy Selfridge HYPERLINK mailto:cselfridge%40sbcglobal.net[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 3:37 PM Subject: [PHISHING]: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Panda Antivirus + Firewall 2007 has detected that this email could be spoofed Take maximum precautions, as spoofed emails could be the sign of a fraud attempt. Joe, Most toilets I have even seen have a pipe inside which allows water to drain should the tank want to overflow. TAke a look and see if there is a 1/2 or so pipe standing up insie the tank. If so, just below the top of that pipe should be the proper level. Cy, the Ancient Okie _ From: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chanting Monks Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 2:25 PM To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Hi Bryce, How high should the level be. Right now, the flush handle is approx three inches beneath the lip of the open tank, and the water level is about half an inch beneath it. The flush handle is seated in a little plastic housing, but it isn't watertight by any stretch. I'm not sure I can raise the level much more without risking water leaking out of the flush handle channel. Do you know if there is a line on the inside of tanks I can have my wife check for that denotes the level? Thanks. Best, Joe Monks Every day you haven't written is a day you've written off... Chanting Monks Press HYPERLINK HYPERLINK http://www.chantingmonks.comhttp://www.chanting-monks.comHYPERLINK http://www.chanting-monks.comhttp://www.chanting--monks.com Sight Unseen Pictures HYPERLINK HYPERLINK http://www.sightunseenpictures.comhttp://www.sightuns-eenpictures.-comHYP ERLINK http://www.sightuns-eenpictures.-comhttp://www.sightuns--eenpictures.--com - Original Message - From: Brice Mijares HYPERLINK mailto:bricem%-40charter.-net[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandym-an%40yahoogroups-.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 10:08 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Have you tried raising the water level in the tank? The last time I did a total replacement of all the parts in the tank I had the same issue. It was the water level. Try raising the water level. - Original Message - From: Chanting Monks HYPERLINK mailto:editor%-40chantingmonks.-comHYPERLINK mailto:editor%40chantingmonk-s.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandym-an%40yahoogroups-.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 9:01 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Hi guys, Last week I had to replace the guts inside the
Re: [BlindHandyMan] plumbing delemna
Hi Spiro, Have you tried loosening the valve first? That is, turn the hot water tap on about half way at least with the shut-off closed of course to keep the actual hot water from spraying out then see if the nut will come loose. If the valve is tight shut as it probably is to keep drips from dripping it will be forcing the threads pretty tight, opening it may reduce that enough to make it removable. You might also try shifting it ever so slightly tighter before trying to loosen it. Last thing I can thing of is to tap on the vice grips or more preferably an open or box wrench with a hammer or even a gentle tap on the end of the stem but do that gently. You certainly don't wish to break anything, that will be a big problem to fix. Let us know how it goes. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 3:34 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] plumbing delemna Hi, I want to state this clearly so you guys have the clearest picture of what is up and the thread doesn't die in confusion with me short of an answer. I have a tiled shower stall. No tub there, just stall all tiled. There are two separate faucets and one standard shower head. On the other side of the wall, there is a service door I can access.I've been in and I see two shut offs. I see what seems to be rough concrete, and wall studs. I've replaced washers both delta and standard before. The shower leaks, drips, and I want to stop wasting water. So I turn off the water. I unscrew the handle of the hot water, as it is determined that when the hot is on, the drip starts again. The cold is off for safety. I remove the hot handle, and the chrome cover beneath that, (it is a hide the hole cover) and the threading that keeps the cover on the stem. Now normally on something like a utility tub, or outside faucet; the next thing is to wrench out the threaded stem assembly at the bottom of which there is a washer. i would then fit it to an assortment of washers I have replace it with some teflon tape and be done. I put some vice grips on the visible not and tried to turn out the stem. No go. I tried again, and still no go. I even chipped the tile a little. Before I go buying specialized tools, getting penitrating oil down the wall, or break anything Is there another kind, or am I missing something very obvious? The ceramic tile, the length of the stem, and the tightness of the assembly make me less than confident to try past what I've already done. What am I missing, other than a brain? Thanks [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles
It's just possible that changing the chain position or length just a bit will make it come above the water surface when it's pulled up, thus letting it get a breath of air to help it float. but I have used many toilets on which you had to hold down the handle as you discribe, so it may be a plan? Tom
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Ray and Tiles.
Hi Dan Just trying to keep the members entertained. Regards Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Tuesday, 18 September 2007 23:38 To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Ray and Tiles. Hey Ray, What's with all the tile emails? You doing some flooring work these days? Great articles. Several of them made it to my handyman folder for future reference. Thanks much. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] All these useful articles
I love reading all the articles that are sent to this list. I am, however, disappointed that most of them do not include the author and source where they were taken from. Not including an author and/or source could be considered in many cases against copyright laws. Plus I'm sure many of us would love to know the resources they've come from so we can check out other articles that may be there. David [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Gluing Tips
Gluing Tips Sealed glue containers will usually last about a year, but glue in open containers has a shorter shelf life. The shelf life depends on the exposure to air and moisture as well as heat and cold. If you only do occasional glue jobs, purchase small containers. Glues also have an open, clamp or working time. Mixed or two-part glues also have a pot life, or how long they stay usable after mixing. For longer life, keep glue containers closed and store at room temperatures. On glue bottles with applicator tips, always clean off and close the tip. Place newspaper on a smooth, flat surface and position clamps as neede. Dry-fit all pieces to make sure they join smoothly and fit properly. Clamp pads, such as these jet pads on jet clamps, prevent denting or marring wood surfaces, especially important when gluing softwoods. Most glues work best at 50 degrees or above, or at room temperature. Check the product label for proper temperature use. Have everything ready for gluing before you start the glue-up or clamping procedure. You'll need a clean, flat, smooth surface. A good tip is to first cover the surface with old newspapers to catch drips. Gather the clamps you need, making sure you have plenty. One of the most important tips is dry fitting parts. This is especially important if gluing intricate joints such as mortise and tenon or frame and panel. Joints should slide together smoothly, but not too tightly or there won't be enough room for the glue. If you are using dowels or biscuits, make sure you have enough of the right size on hand before you start. You'll also need cloths for clean-up and protective gloves for some materials. In most instances you will also need clamp blocks or pads to protect wood surfaces, especially soft woods, from denting under clamp pressure. When gluing wood pieces together, make sure all surfaces are smooth and clean. For instance, when edge-gluing narrow strips to make up a wider strip, the edges should be run over a jointer or sanded smooth. Glue can be applied with a glue-bottle applicator tip, but it's important to evenly coat the wood surface. Thin strips of wood can be used as paddles to smooth out beads of glue to more thoroughly coat the surface of narrow joint pieces, inside mortises or dadoes and for edge-jointing. If coating larger surfaces, such as when gluing down veneers, or making laminated parts, a roller is the best choice for a smooth and thorough application. With all pieces glue-coated, tighten the clamps. Alternate the clamps, tighten one somewhat, then tighten the second or other clamps about the same until you have all clamped equally. Different glues have different gap-filling capacities, but regardless, the mating surfaces should be sanded smooth and cleaned of any oil, dirt or sanding dust. They should also mate properly. In edge-gluing make sure all edges are jointed or edge-sanded and that they fit smoothly together without gaps. A small bead of glue should be squeezed out of the joints. When gluing with wood-worker's glue, this can be wiped away with a cloth dampened with water. Rather than using a cloth, a better method for removing glue on softwoods is to wait for 30 minutes and then cut away excess glue with a sharp chisel. Different glues also require somewhat different techniques. PVA or white glue and aliphatic resin glues, often called carpenter's, wood or yellow glues are the most common glues used in woodworking. The latter come in waterproof versions. White glue has a somewhat longer working time than most yellow glues, and this allows for easier assembly of complicated projects, such as frame and panels. Yellow glue, on the other hand, has a shorter clamping time. Titebond II Extend Glue is a commercial glue that has a slower speed of set and is ideal for exterior applications involving complex assemblies. Titebond Molding Trim Wood Glue, however, is extremely fast setting, with a no-drip, no-run formula that dries clear, making it ideal for glue-ups of prefinished molding and trim. Titebond Dark Glue is a good choice for gluing up dark woods with less glue-line visibility. A thin wooden paddle is best for applying glue to tenons and inside mortises and other more intricate joints. This allows for more even glue application to all areas. Most woodworking glues require at least 30 minutes of set-up time, with no stress on the joints for 24 hours. I prefer to leave items clamped solidly for 24 hours. Excess glue can be cleaned with a damp cloth, although on soft woods, such as pine, this will often leave a hardened area that is difficult to sand off, and leaves a splotchy finish. The best bet with these woods is to simply leave excess squeezed-out glue in place, then remove it with a sharp blade or chisel about 30 minutes after glue-up, then sand smooth. Polyurethane glue has become increasingly popular. For woods with a moisture content of less than 10 percent, which is most furniture woods, the joints must first be
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Ray and Tiles.
I'm having trouble just keeping up with reading all of the articles, I can't imagine how he finds the time to research the things. Ray, you never cease to amaze me and today is no exception. David Ferrin - Original Message - From: Boyce, Ray To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 5:05 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Ray and Tiles. Hi Dan Just trying to keep the members entertained. Regards Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Tuesday, 18 September 2007 23:38 To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Ray and Tiles. Hey Ray, What's with all the tile emails? You doing some flooring work these days? Great articles. Several of them made it to my handyman folder for future reference. Thanks much. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles
How aboot you shorten up on the chain so it is within a fraction of an inch of being tight while at rest so that immediately you press the handle the flapper begins to rise. This will insure that it will lift that bit higher when you do depress the handle. Set it on the most distant hole in the lift arm so as to amplify the lift as well. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 5:25 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles It's just possible that changing the chain position or length just a bit will make it come above the water surface when it's pulled up, thus letting it get a breath of air to help it float. but I have used many toilets on which you had to hold down the handle as you discribe, so it may be a plan? Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles
Have you stuck your hand down in the tank and felt the flapper lift as you flush it? If it don't come up enough for the water to get a good drain going the water pressure will just close the flapper. When you adjust the chain, the chain should be almost taunt. So make sure your flushing mechanism is lifting the flapper enough. - Original Message - From: Chanting Monks [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 1:38 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Hi Cy, I just discovered the little bar on the interior of the tank that attaches to the flush handle has three holes for chain adjustment. None seems to make any difference. Shortening the chain a half inch seems to allow a little more water to flow out prior to the flapper closing again and the flushing action stopping, but didn't fix the problem. I tested the water level and as you said, there is a pipe to keep from the tank overfilling and the water level is about 3/4 of an inch right beneath the lip, at the notch for it. Back to square one...the toilet is haunted. :P Best, Joe Monks Every day you haven't written is a day you've written off... Chanting Monks Press http://www.chantingmonks.com Sight Unseen Pictures http://www.sightunseenpictures.com - Original Message - From: Cy Selfridge [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 3:37 PM Subject: [PHISHING]: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles --- Panda Antivirus + Firewall 2007 has detected that this email could be spoofed Take maximum precautions, as spoofed emails could be the sign of a fraud attempt. --- Joe, Most toilets I have even seen have a pipe inside which allows water to drain should the tank want to overflow. TAke a look and see if there is a 1/2 or so pipe standing up insie the tank. If so, just below the top of that pipe should be the proper level. Cy, the Ancient Okie _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chanting Monks Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 2:25 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Hi Bryce, How high should the level be. Right now, the flush handle is approx three inches beneath the lip of the open tank, and the water level is about half an inch beneath it. The flush handle is seated in a little plastic housing, but it isn't watertight by any stretch. I'm not sure I can raise the level much more without risking water leaking out of the flush handle channel. Do you know if there is a line on the inside of tanks I can have my wife check for that denotes the level? Thanks. Best, Joe Monks Every day you haven't written is a day you've written off... Chanting Monks Press HYPERLINK http://www.chantingmonks.comhttp://www.chanting-monks.com Sight Unseen Pictures HYPERLINK http://www.sightunseenpictures.comhttp://www.sightuns-eenpictures.-com - Original Message - From: Brice Mijares HYPERLINK mailto:bricem%40charter.net[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 10:08 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Have you tried raising the water level in the tank? The last time I did a total replacement of all the parts in the tank I had the same issue. It was the water level. Try raising the water level. - Original Message - From: Chanting Monks HYPERLINK mailto:editor%40chantingmonks.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 9:01 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles Hi guys, Last week I had to replace the guts inside the tank. The rubber flap at the tank base, the chain and lever attached to the exterior flush handle, etc. With all new guts in the tank, when I flush, if I just push down the lever and let go instantly, the toilet starts to flush, then stops. If I hold down the lever for three to five seconds, then it works fine. I tried shortening the chain linking lever to flapper, hasn't helped. Leaving a little more play in the chain. Hasn't helped. It used to be just push the lever, toilet flushed fine, but now I can't figure out what might be adjustable that I could tinker with to get it to flush with just the old press and let go action. Any suggestions? I believe I opened the valve out of the wall to the tank right back to where it used to be, and it seems the tank is just as full as it always was, so it is just the issue of needing to hold down the handle that is bugging me. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Best, Joe Monks
Re: [BlindHandyMan] plumbing delemna
It sounds as you have a three piece stem. Remove the knob. Unscrew the chrome. Put the screw of the handle back in the remaining piece after removing the first part of the stem and give it a good firm pull. For it sounds as you have a Price Pfister faucet. The seats of a delta will inter change with each other. I also recommend you apply plumber grease to the rubber seats and O ring went doing this repair. RJ - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 3:34 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] plumbing delemna Hi, I want to state this clearly so you guys have the clearest picture of what is up and the thread doesn't die in confusion with me short of an answer. I have a tiled shower stall. No tub there, just stall all tiled. There are two separate faucets and one standard shower head. On the other side of the wall, there is a service door I can access.I've been in and I see two shut offs. I see what seems to be rough concrete, and wall studs. I've replaced washers both delta and standard before. The shower leaks, drips, and I want to stop wasting water. So I turn off the water. I unscrew the handle of the hot water, as it is determined that when the hot is on, the drip starts again. The cold is off for safety. I remove the hot handle, and the chrome cover beneath that, (it is a hide the hole cover) and the threading that keeps the cover on the stem. Now normally on something like a utility tub, or outside faucet; the next thing is to wrench out the threaded stem assembly at the bottom of which there is a washer. i would then fit it to an assortment of washers I have replace it with some teflon tape and be done. I put some vice grips on the visible not and tried to turn out the stem. No go. I tried again, and still no go. I even chipped the tile a little. Before I go buying specialized tools, getting penitrating oil down the wall, or break anything Is there another kind, or am I missing something very obvious? The ceramic tile, the length of the stem, and the tightness of the assembly make me less than confident to try past what I've already done. What am I missing, other than a brain? Thanks [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Ray and Tiles.
Ray, I really wish you would not post all of the articles on painting and especially the one on slate. My wife listens over my shoulder and now, believe it or not, she is seriously thinking about slate in the kitchen. She claims it would really give it that *old country* look. (whatever that is) Now, when you couple these articles with the various tool explanations you have included there is no hope in Hell that I will ever be financially solvent again. (ROFL) Another bone to pick is that I honestly thought I had every kind of plier ever made until I read the blurb on pliers. (boo hiss) I also find that I do not have a flange wrench. Cy, (livin in the poorhouse) the Ancient Okie... _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Boyce, Ray Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 4:06 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Ray and Tiles. Hi Dan Just trying to keep the members entertained. Regards Ray -_-_-__ From: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Tuesday, 18 September 2007 23:38 To: HYPERLINK mailto:BlindHandyman%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Ray and Tiles. Hey Ray, What's with all the tile emails? You doing some flooring work these days? Great articles. Several of them made it to my handyman folder for future reference. Thanks much. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: HYPERLINK mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dr25%-40andrew.-cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 -*-*-*-*-*-*-*** * This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. -*-*-*-*-*-*-*** * [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1015 - Release Date: 9/18/2007 11:53 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1015 - Release Date: 9/18/2007 11:53 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet troubles
I had this problem with a new flapper, it had a ring that went around the pipe and tabs to hook on the ears on the side of the pipe. My old one only had the tabs so i took it back off and cut the ring off and put it back with just the tabs holding it and it worked perfectly.
RE: [BlindHandyMan] All these useful articles
Hi David Yes there are a lot of useful articles sent in, one or two by me. I remove all content I feel will not give a clean read and if the source is relevant I will also post the URL. If I am breaking Copy Write then I will take full responsibility for my actions. We have in our files this content, Some of the files on this page may contain Copy Write information and Remain the Ownership of the Copy Write Owner, and that these files have been sent in by Handy Man List Members and compiled for their use. I do a tremendous amount of research for this list and have over time I hope educated people about that they can indeed do many jobs around the home. by reading some of these articles it gives them the confidence to attempt something they thought they could not even achieve. So David let me take all the responsibilities and I hope you enjoy what is presented, If however you find an interesting article yourself please send it along so we can learn . For this list was started bby Don Shaw to help each other and each member which joins brings a certain level of expertise into the group so we can learn from each other. Regards ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Sexton Sent: Wednesday, 19 September 2007 00:10 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] All these useful articles I love reading all the articles that are sent to this list. I am, however, disappointed that most of them do not include the author and source where they were taken from. Not including an author and/or source could be considered in many cases against copyright laws. Plus I'm sure many of us would love to know the resources they've come from so we can check out other articles that may be there. David [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe
Seals and gaskets wouldn't hurt, clean any sludge out of the oil pan and valve covers, and put it back together. Might get another 100 150k out of it, a lot depends on how it was and will be taken care of. I may do a timing set, especially if it is a plastic one. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of robert moore Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 15:04 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe OK OK I give. Crying Uncle. If this was an old 283 or 327 or maybe an old 400 wild cat like the one sitting out in the shed in the 61 Buic LaSaber I might think I may want to persue this project. No advice needed on the Buick since it is not mine and not ever likely to become mine. I am starting to think that this motor is not worth the expense. On the other hand what do you guys think about leaving the gutts well enough alone and just changing the gaskets in order to prolong any risk of leaking coolant or oil and such. I just thought since it will be out in the open I would cover some of the basics with out getting too far into it. My last option, and who knows maybe my best option at this point is to just leave well enough alone. Don't get me wrong I am not getting afraid of this project I am just trying to way the cost and effort with the potential pay off. Since I don't even yet have a destination for this engine. Thank you all for the great feed back. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Larry Stansifer Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 6:15 AM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe Robert, If the cylinders have more than about .006 taper from top to bottom you will probably want to bore it. This will mean purchasing a new set of pistons in the correct over-size as well as a trip to the machine shop to have the block professionally machined. You will need to hit the machine shop for a few other precision measurements whether or not you need to bore your block. You will need to have the crank-shaft mains and rod journals measured to make certain it will hold a new set of Barings. You will also want the guy to measure the main baring thrust. This is a preset measure usually about .003 to .005 end play so that as the engine warms up and the parts expand the crank doesn't lock up in the block. When you get closer to tare-down time I know a few back yard tricks that will clue what trouble areas to look for. One more thing even in a basic motor refresh you will absolutely want to replace the cam, lifters and most especially the oil pump. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of robert moore Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 9:57 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe As far as goals for this engine, they are simple. I am not looking for more power or milage. If I get either, all the better. I am simply thinking that with 150K on the engine If I plant it in something I don't want to have to deal with some of the commen high milage failures after going to all the work to up root and transplant it. Things like leaking main seals, head gasket failures, and all of the anoiing coolant leaks that I had to deal with on my S10 last year. And I figure with new rings and bearings if done wright the engine should last a long time. So there you have it in a nut shell. Now for determining if the engine is too warn to hone what is involved in that and if it is too warn to hone then what does a fello do. If I am going to be looking at boring and oversizing the pistons then I will scrap the engine because for me at this time it would not be worth the money . there are a ton of these little 4.3 engines out there. The trucks are rapidly rotting out from undernieth good engines all the time. Thanks for your feed back. Robert -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ]On Behalf Of Michael Baldwin Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 8:28 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe Robert, Yes they sell a rering kit for most engines, it usually comes with the main and rod
[BlindHandyMan] Installing a Dryer Vent
Venting a clothes dryer to the outside isn't an option - it's a requirement. An unvented dryer puts all kinds of fibers and lint into the air in the house that will not only accumulate and make a heck of a mess over time, but can cause respiratory and breathing problems for the occupants. Even more important, the hot air in the dryer (as a result of combustion) may contain gasses such as carbon monoxide that are extremely hazardous. These need to be vented to the outside. Luckily, installing a dryer vent is a pretty straightforward job. As long as you can measure accurately and use a power drill or jig saw, you can install your own dryer vent. What you'll need: * Power drill * Hole saw * Tape measure * 4 inch rigid sheet metal pipe * Dryer vent * Caulking gun and silicon caulking * Foil tape * Screwdriver and wood screws * Ladder (possibly) Determining where the vent will go The first thing to do is figure out where you want your dryer vent to be placed. If your dryer is in the basement, you want to drill through the wooden sill plate that sits on your foundation. If your dryer is on the main or second floor, you will need to determine where you can cut a hole through the wall. When you think you've found the proper location, drill a small pilot hole and insert wire coat hanger bent at 90 degrees and spin it around. If the hanger doesn't hit anything inside the wall, your location is fine; however, if it hits something in the wall you'll need to find another location. Check the vent locations from the outside as well. Do this by measuring (on the inside) from the corner of the foundation or even a window to your chosen spot, and then go outside and use the same measurement to verify that your location is OK. You don't want to be running into any existing shrubbery or even gate posts. Installing the Vent Once you've established where your dryer vent is going, drill a small pilot hole from the inside. Go outside, and using a 4-inch hole saw, cut the hole for the dryer vent pipe. You can use a smaller hole saw and a saber saw to cut the hole, just be sure to mark the location of the vent pipe with the pilot hole in its center. Install the vent hood or shroud to the side of your house using rust resistant wood screws, and caulk all around the pipe and the shroud. The vent hood should have a piece of pipe about 12 long already attached to it. On the inside, attach a 90-degree elbow to the protruding end of the vent pipe, and then run sections of vent pipe back to your dryer. At the dryer, you'll need to attach an elbow where the exhaust comes out of the dryer and then connect the vent pipe to the elbow. Your dryer vent is now basically finished. All that's left is to slide the dryer back into position and make sure it's level. Final Thoughts Use large hose clamps to attach the solid vent pipes to the elbows, and use foil tape to seal the joints between the pipe sections. Never use sheet metal screws to join the sections together - they will protrude into the pipe, where they will catch and hold lint that eventually could block the vent pipe. One final word. Flexible plastic hoses were commonly used for venting dryers in the past. However, these hoses aren't strong enough to support their own weight, so they will sag, and lint will collect in the low spots, creating a possible fire hazard. Don't use them. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe
Michael Never mind the question about the oil pump. I reread the last post from Larry and I got my answer. If I do any thing at all with this motor such as gaskets, seals and basic clean up I will go ahead and replace the oil pump. Thanks Robert -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Michael Baldwin Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 8:49 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe Seals and gaskets wouldn't hurt, clean any sludge out of the oil pan and valve covers, and put it back together. Might get another 100 150k out of it, a lot depends on how it was and will be taken care of. I may do a timing set, especially if it is a plastic one. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of robert moore Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 15:04 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe OK OK I give. Crying Uncle. If this was an old 283 or 327 or maybe an old 400 wild cat like the one sitting out in the shed in the 61 Buic LaSaber I might think I may want to persue this project. No advice needed on the Buick since it is not mine and not ever likely to become mine. I am starting to think that this motor is not worth the expense. On the other hand what do you guys think about leaving the gutts well enough alone and just changing the gaskets in order to prolong any risk of leaking coolant or oil and such. I just thought since it will be out in the open I would cover some of the basics with out getting too far into it. My last option, and who knows maybe my best option at this point is to just leave well enough alone. Don't get me wrong I am not getting afraid of this project I am just trying to way the cost and effort with the potential pay off. Since I don't even yet have a destination for this engine. Thank you all for the great feed back. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Larry Stansifer Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 6:15 AM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe Robert, If the cylinders have more than about .006 taper from top to bottom you will probably want to bore it. This will mean purchasing a new set of pistons in the correct over-size as well as a trip to the machine shop to have the block professionally machined. You will need to hit the machine shop for a few other precision measurements whether or not you need to bore your block. You will need to have the crank-shaft mains and rod journals measured to make certain it will hold a new set of Barings. You will also want the guy to measure the main baring thrust. This is a preset measure usually about .003 to .005 end play so that as the engine warms up and the parts expand the crank doesn't lock up in the block. When you get closer to tare-down time I know a few back yard tricks that will clue what trouble areas to look for. One more thing even in a basic motor refresh you will absolutely want to replace the cam, lifters and most especially the oil pump. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of robert moore Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 9:57 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe As far as goals for this engine, they are simple. I am not looking for more power or milage. If I get either, all the better. I am simply thinking that with 150K on the engine If I plant it in something I don't want to have to deal with some of the commen high milage failures after going to all the work to up root and transplant it. Things like leaking main seals, head gasket failures, and all of the anoiing coolant leaks that I had to deal with on my S10 last year. And I figure with new rings and bearings if done wright the engine should last a long time. So there you have it in a nut shell. Now for determining if the engine is too warn to hone what is involved in that and if it is too warn to hone then what does a fello do. If I am going to be looking at boring and oversizing the pistons then I will scrap the engine because for me at this time it would not be worth the money . there are a ton of these little 4.3 engines out there. The trucks are rapidly rotting out from undernieth good engines all the time. Thanks for
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe
Michael I think that is the way I will go. How about new oil pump since it will be accessible? Or don't they go bad that often? -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Michael Baldwin Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 8:49 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe Seals and gaskets wouldn't hurt, clean any sludge out of the oil pan and valve covers, and put it back together. Might get another 100 150k out of it, a lot depends on how it was and will be taken care of. I may do a timing set, especially if it is a plastic one. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of robert moore Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 15:04 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe OK OK I give. Crying Uncle. If this was an old 283 or 327 or maybe an old 400 wild cat like the one sitting out in the shed in the 61 Buic LaSaber I might think I may want to persue this project. No advice needed on the Buick since it is not mine and not ever likely to become mine. I am starting to think that this motor is not worth the expense. On the other hand what do you guys think about leaving the gutts well enough alone and just changing the gaskets in order to prolong any risk of leaking coolant or oil and such. I just thought since it will be out in the open I would cover some of the basics with out getting too far into it. My last option, and who knows maybe my best option at this point is to just leave well enough alone. Don't get me wrong I am not getting afraid of this project I am just trying to way the cost and effort with the potential pay off. Since I don't even yet have a destination for this engine. Thank you all for the great feed back. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Larry Stansifer Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 6:15 AM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe Robert, If the cylinders have more than about .006 taper from top to bottom you will probably want to bore it. This will mean purchasing a new set of pistons in the correct over-size as well as a trip to the machine shop to have the block professionally machined. You will need to hit the machine shop for a few other precision measurements whether or not you need to bore your block. You will need to have the crank-shaft mains and rod journals measured to make certain it will hold a new set of Barings. You will also want the guy to measure the main baring thrust. This is a preset measure usually about .003 to .005 end play so that as the engine warms up and the parts expand the crank doesn't lock up in the block. When you get closer to tare-down time I know a few back yard tricks that will clue what trouble areas to look for. One more thing even in a basic motor refresh you will absolutely want to replace the cam, lifters and most especially the oil pump. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of robert moore Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 9:57 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rebuilding the 4.3 B6: Maybe As far as goals for this engine, they are simple. I am not looking for more power or milage. If I get either, all the better. I am simply thinking that with 150K on the engine If I plant it in something I don't want to have to deal with some of the commen high milage failures after going to all the work to up root and transplant it. Things like leaking main seals, head gasket failures, and all of the anoiing coolant leaks that I had to deal with on my S10 last year. And I figure with new rings and bearings if done wright the engine should last a long time. So there you have it in a nut shell. Now for determining if the engine is too warn to hone what is involved in that and if it is too warn to hone then what does a fello do. If I am going to be looking at boring and oversizing the pistons then I will scrap the engine because for me at this time it would not be worth the money . there are a ton of these little 4.3 engines out there. The trucks are rapidly rotting out from undernieth good engines all the time. Thanks for your feed back. Robert -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
