RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Paslode Nailer

[spiro]

i totally agree.
i was doing a speaker project; big speakers which had a 50 lb 12 inch 
woofer cabinet attached by angle iron, above one just like it...
for each side of the room...
and I wasn't about to spend time playing with the turning required by 16
  2 inch wood screws per assembly, and risk that second elevated box coming 
down on me.
i had to assemble it here, test it, take it apart, and build it that 
evening at the guy's house.
Nah,I'd have had to call "rent a wrist" if that were the case.
Heehee, Heavy duty in-line rechargable screwdriver to the rescue.
You bet!
I lost it at a job site after. but I haven't been without one since. A 
woofer may have up to 8 allen screws, and so on and so on.
Do some more projects for her quickly and enjoy some time together. You're 
gonna win even if she won't admit it.
Been there.
:)
On Sat, 29 Mar 2008, Barry Levine wrote:

>
> Clifford, you hit the nail on the head... (sorry for the bad pun.)
>
> I've just finished using this tool for the first time, and it's going to
> take me longer to tell you about it than it took to do what I needed to do
> with it.
>
> One of our daughters' beds had a problem with supporting the mattress.  The
> frame has wooden siderails, at the inside lower edge of which are wood
> runners which are there to support a bunch of wooden slats connected to one
> another with some sort of canvas ribbon.  The wooden slats, in turn are what
> support the mattress.  There is no box-spring for this bed.
> Well, the wood edges on the inside of the side rails are apparently not deep
> enough to keep the wood slats from getting jostled off and falling to the
> floor, allowing the mattress to do the same... a very rude awakening...
> literally.
> So, my fix was simple... take a couple of pine 1 by 3's, and glue and nail
> them to the wooden edges, thereby giving those edges approx another inch and
> a half on each side... enough ledge to solve the jostling off problem.  I
> honestly don't know what the builders of this bed were thinking.
>
> The original edge on the inside of the wood rails was too thin, maybe an
> inch, to allow for hammering, as it is of course connected to the bed rail.
> I could have drilled pilots and countersunk screws, but that too needs some
> room, as well as more cleanup and accuracy, since I'd drill the pilots, put
> down a bead of glue, then lay the board back down to do the screwing.  I
> suppose I could have just piloted the screw holes right through the wood and
> glue, but that seems sloppy to me.
> This nailer is so easy and quick, I decided to put a couple of brads through
> the wooden slats, as well.  Not too many... as there needs to be some play
> in the system... but, a few.
> It's really easy with this nailer to use a finger to find your spot, remove
> your finger, place the tip of the nailer, push down, squeeze the trigger,
> and... POP!
>
> It's our youngest daughter's bed, and she's coming home for the weekend...
> she's away at school... but only approx 40 miles away.  So, she's home
> fairly often.  I figured 260 bucks wasn't too much to spend for her
> slumbering safety.
> Overall, it seemed as though I absolutely needed to go out and buy a
> cordless nailer for this little project.
> If you agree... please send a letter of support I can show Phyllis... she's
> still shaking her head.
>
>
> --Barry
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of clifford
> Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 8:09 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Paslode Nailer
>
>
>
> Dear Barry:
> You will find many uses for your new nailer, although there may be months in
> between uses. The jobs will go so quickly, that you will feel that you have
> not used it much, but pick up the hammer and do just a small part and you
> will quickly recall why you love your new toy.
> I have the electric model from DeWalt, which uses an eighteen volt battery
> and my wife enjoys using it. It does not make as much noise as the
> pass-load, but both are good products. We normally borrow a pass-load when
> it comes time to frame, as 2.5 inch nails will not work when framing.
> When installing base-board or other trim, they are really handy and
> efficient.
>
> Yours Truly,
>
> Clifford Wilson
> - Original Message -
> From: Barry Levine
> To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 7:12 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Paslode Nailer
>
> Howdy Blind Handy People,
>
> I have a new, as in just purchased about an hour ago, Paslode 18-gauge
> cordless brad nailer! Hah! My scores on the man-scale have just risen
> another whole standard deviation above the mean!
>
> It works off a battery and a gas charge. The battery will last approx 4000
> hits, and the gas canister will go for approx 1200 hits. It will handle
> brads from five-eights inch long, on up to two inches.
>
> I bo

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Central Vac System

[chiliblindman]

 Larry there are different size boxes for the outlets.  The standard are 
much larger for new construction and compact units for retrofit and close 
clearance.  Depending on the construction of your house it could be quite easy 
with a little help.  They also could be mounted in the floor if out of walking 
areas and nothing would be placed on the cover.  The vacuum exhaust does exit 
the house so no air taken in the hose gets returned inside the house.  Any dust 
not filtered goes outside with the motor noise.
 If power heads are used, an electrical outlet should be very close to the 
vacuum port.  A hose with power wires and a plug will be needed to supply the 
power to the head.
 I have had mine now since around 1978.  The piping got blocked one time 
with my kids feeding army men into battle.  By checking the different outlets 
it was easy to determine approximately the location of the block.  I cut the 
elbow open and low and behold the men didn't make the corner in pairs.  I cut a 
little extra pipe off and glued a coupling into place.  I have had mine for 30 
years now and other than that I got a new 30 foot hose to replace the old 25 
footer.
.bob

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] weed eaters

[Bob Kennedy]

I have a 4 cycle version which is kind of cool.  Once you grab hold of one 
you'll be able to figure out how to stand.  The handles can be loosened and 
twisted to fit right or left hands.  The way I work mine is to grip the 
throttle in my right hand and then my elbow braces on the side of the engine.  
My left hand holds the forward handle that directs the swing of the cutter 
head.  It's really a personal choice how you work one.  If you've never seen 
one, they have some very heavy duty nylon or plastic string, probably 
equivalent to a 12 or 14 gauge wire just much more flexible.  The engine spins 
this "string" at a pretty good speed and it snaps off weeds or grass.  
Basically you just rev up the engine and then move it back and forth, or 
actually side to side in front of you and there isn't much more to it than 
that.  

Obviously you don't want to do this bear footed, but no one needs to worry 
about the string doing much physical damage to you.  I've been whipped on the 
shins and calves by them before and it stings enough to make you get out of the 
way but won't leave you needing stitches or even medical attention.  But they 
are designed to cut lets say vegetation, and that includes flowers and plants 
and things that some people put near the walkways...  So you won't have a 
problem trimming, but you might hear some complaining if you cut down something 
other than grass...

 
  - Original Message - 
  From: carl 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 2:38 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] weed eaters


  speacking of them what is the safe way to use one i'm in the uk and doan't 
realey kno the stance to take or anything like that 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rob Monitor 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 7:22 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] weed eaters

  HI, I have a old weed eater that some one gave me not sure what kind it is 
but it's a cheep one. What I would like to find out is the flywheel on a weed 
eater heavy enough to run the motor with out the shaft on it?? Like most 
smaller lawn mowers have to have the blade on it to run does a weed eater have 
to have the shaft with the string on it??
  THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] weed eaters

[Bob Kennedy]

I've never tried to run one without the shaft and cable connected but I would 
imagine you could.  It is more like a chain saw with a centrifugal clutch than 
a lawn mower engine.  They idle, or are supposed to idle without the string 
turning.  

One thing to keep in mind if you decide to try it.  The engine will scream in a 
hurry if you get it running.  There won't be the normal drag created from 
powering the cable and cutting head.  Give it a try and see what happens.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rob Monitor 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 2:22 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] weed eaters


  HI, I have a old weed eater that some one gave me not sure what kind it is 
but it's a cheep one. What I would like to find out is the flywheel on a weed 
eater heavy enough to run the motor with out the shaft on it?? Like most 
smaller lawn mowers have to have the blade on it to run does a weed eater have 
to have the shaft with the string on it??
  THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Central Vac System

[Dale Leavens]

Actually there are do it yourself kits and it isn't necessarily all that hard 
depending on what access you have.

If there is a basement and the basement allows reasonable access to the 
sub-floor it is mostly a matter of locating the middle of the partition walls 
above and in a stud cavity. The units come with fittings to insert into an 
appropriately sized hole in the wall and are fitted over the end of the duct. 
The wire usually is carried along the duct and often they just press-fit 
together making both the air and electrical connection. With a 30 foot hose you 
need place your outlets at something a little under 60 foot intervals though in 
practice it is usually quite a bit closer than that but along a central 
corridor you may need only two outlets maybe three and that might not be all 
that difficult to arrange.

You can often access a second story through a chase or by designing a chase up 
the corner of a closet or along side a sewer waste pipe.

I don't know if there is any reason why one couldn't drop ducts from above, it 
does mean lifting debris and pulling it across the ceiling before descending 
into a garage or closet but I don't know why that should be much of an issue.

There was one in a little place we rented a couple of summers ago, I didn't pay 
a lot of attention to it but it was well up on the wall in a laundry room. 
Seems to me the duct curved an arch into the wall then down into a crawl space. 
The upper story was a half story sort of loft arrangement so it probably only 
had one outlet immediately above the canister.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Victor Gouveia 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 5:44 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Central Vac System


  Hi Larry,

  Judging from what I've seen of other's installations,the vacuum ducts are 
  housed in the walls, so I can't see you installing a central vacuum system 
  without tearing out some walls, or, at least some sections of walls.

  You also have to think about the type of flooring you have, as this will 
  decide the type of hose you are dealing with.

  If you have only bare flooring, that being tile, parquet or hardwood, the 
  electrical need isn't as great, as you will not need an attachment with a 
  beater bar attached for carpeting.

  If you do have carpeting scattered throughout the house, or completely 
  covering the flooring, then you're looking at a more powerful unit.

  What this essentially means is that along with the ducting needed, you will 
  also have to run wiring along that ducting to power the system, while being 
  controlled by the hose nozzle.

  Again, depending on whether you'll be attaching a carpet attachment to that 
  nozzle, will depend on what kind of electrical requirements you get.

  Also, the power required will depend on the amount of floor space you'll 
  have to cover with the ducting and wiring. This will all have to be covered 
  by the technician, as the bigger the floor coverage you're looking for, the 
  more power required by the unit to produce the sucking power to travel 100 
  feet, if your house is that long, let's say, to the end of the house, if 
  the unit is located at the opposite end of the house.

  In any case, I don't think you'll be looking at a weekend project, and I do 
  believe this would involve a major retrofit.

  Victor Gouveia 



   


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  Checked by AVG. 
  Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.1/1352 - Release Date: 3/31/2008 
10:13 AM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Central Vac System

[Barry Levine]

Larry,

I don't think it would be reasonable in terms of cost to retrofit an
existing home with a central vac system.  Certainly, people do it, but it's
going to cost a pretty penny.  The vacuum tubes are typically laid out along
floor joists, and then rise vertically within the walls as placed per plan.
The actual outlets are usually at or near electrical outlet height on the
wall.  If this is something you can do yourself, then the costs would be
reasonable.

The actual motor and cannister are typically mounted on a wall in the
basement or utility room... Hence the quiet.  You can be many rooms away
from the motor noise... A very pleasant by-product of a central vac system.

There are two types of vac heads... One is as you describe, like a shop vac
head, although typically of better quality and more sophisticated design.
The other type of head is electrified, with a rotating brush for carpeting.
The newer hoses have the electricity running through the hose and getting
its juice from the central vac outlet itself.  Non-carpeted flooring doesn't
need electricity and, therefore, you'd use a different hose... Just a simple
snake without electricity running through it.


The downside is cost.  If it breaks down out of warranty, be prepared to
spend on repairs what you'd spend on a new stand-alone vacuum cleaner.


--Barry

Re: [BlindHandyMan] weed eaters

[cheetah]

weed eaters are very easy to use.
just hold the machine by there handles and sweep it back and forth in 
front of you as you walk down the line to be cut.
also ware heavyer shoes if the line hits your foot it won't hurt.
if you wear sneakers it stings a bit, yes i know grin.
jim
At 01:38 PM 3/31/2008, you wrote:

>speacking of them what is the safe way to use one i'm in the uk and 
>doan't realey kno the stance to take or anything like that
>- Original Message -
>From: Rob Monitor
>To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 7:22 PM
>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] weed eaters
>
>HI, I have a old weed eater that some one gave me not sure what kind 
>it is but it's a cheep one. What I would like to find out is the 
>flywheel on a weed eater heavy enough to run the motor with out the 
>shaft on it?? Like most smaller lawn mowers have to have the blade 
>on it to run does a weed eater have to have the shaft with the string on it??
>THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG.
>Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.1/1352 - Release Date: 
>3/31/2008 10:13 AM

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Central Vac System

[Victor Gouveia]

Hi Larry,

Judging from what I've seen of other's installations,the vacuum ducts are 
housed in the walls, so I can't see you installing a central vacuum system 
without tearing out some walls, or, at least some sections of walls.

You also have to think about the type of flooring you have, as this will 
decide the type of hose you are dealing with.

If you have only bare flooring, that being tile, parquet or hardwood, the 
electrical need isn't as great, as you will not need an attachment with a 
beater bar attached for carpeting.

If you do have carpeting scattered throughout the house, or completely 
covering the flooring, then you're looking at a more powerful unit.

What this essentially means is that along with the ducting needed, you will 
also have to run wiring along that ducting to power the system, while being 
controlled by the hose nozzle.

Again, depending on whether you'll be attaching a carpet attachment to that 
nozzle, will depend on what kind of electrical requirements you get.

Also, the power required will depend on the amount of floor space you'll 
have to cover with the ducting and wiring.  This will all have to be covered 
by the technician, as the bigger the floor coverage you're looking for, the 
more power required by the unit to produce the sucking power to travel 100 
feet, if your house is that long, let's say,  to the end of the house, if 
the unit is located at the opposite end of the house.

In any case, I don't think you'll be looking at a weekend project, and I do 
believe this would involve a major retrofit.

Victor Gouveia 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Central Vac System

[Larry Stansifer]

Hi guys,
Is it reasonable and cost effective to retrofit an existing home with one of
these animals?
Do the outlets come up through the floor or through the walls?
Do they use a powered type head or is it just a hose and nozzle like a shop
vac?
What is the down side to having one of these things?

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Barry Levine
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 3:10 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Central Vac System



Howdy Folks,

We've had a central vac system since we built the house 23 years ago. We've,
just in the past year, replaced the motor and cannister.  We've replaced the
hoses a few times throughout the years, but are on only our second vacuum
head.

We've enjoyed the ease of use.  Yes, you still need to deal with the
hoses... But, they're not quite as bulky or heavy as a whole vacuum cleaner.

We had outlets placed in every room, plus the garage, my workshop, other
areas of the basement, etc. We also have that dustpan thing in the kitchen.
It's placed at a baseboard and works great.

One of the best features of a central vac system is the motor, therefore,
the suction power.  All in all, we've enjoyed this central vac setup.  But,
as with anything else, it's a matter of personal preference.


--Barry




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[BlindHandyMan] When and How to Plant Potatoes

[Ray Boyce]

Potatoes are one of the easiest crops you can grow, and early spring is the
time to get them in the ground.

otatoes are easy to grow, but they prefer cool weather so you should try to
get them into the ground at the right time. The first thing you'll need to
do is start saving whole or cut-up pieces of potatoes to use as your
"seeds." 

Or you can order seed potatoes through mail-order garden companies. (

to determine the recommended planting time for your climate. Since it takes
potatoes two to three weeks to emerge from the ground, the earliest you
should plant seed potatoes is two weeks before your last anticipated freeze
date of 28 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. (If you don't know your local last
freeze date, you can find it here  .) About a
week before your planting-out date, bring the seed out of the fridge and
place it in a bright warm window for about a week. This will help break the
spuds' dormancy and assure they will grow quickly when you put them into the
still-cool spring soil.

If you garden in areas that have hot summers be sure to plant your potatoes
early, and to play it safe, choose varieties that mature in early- or
mid-season. This is because potatoes do not do well when the temperatures
climb into the 90s. They may actually keel over and die when the temperature
gets to 95 degrees. If a late planting or a late season variety runs into
that hot weather while the tubers are in the early bulking stage you may get
a very low yield.

To save work, or as a way to start a new garden bed, some people like to
just toss their potato seed pieces onto bare ground or even a patch of sod,
and then cover the pieces with a heavy mulch of straw or leaves. I've always
wondered if you get as many potatoes with this short-cut method as you would
if you buried the seed in a prepared garden bed, so I asked Jim and Megan
Gerritsen, who grow and sell certified organic potatoes at Wood
  Prairie Farm in Bridgewater, Maine, what they
think of this technique. The Gerritsens have been advising gardeners all
across the continent since 1976.

Q: Does planting potatoes in a deep mulch on uncultivated ground still give
reasonably good yields?

A: This deep mulch potato planting technique is called the Stout method,
named after the old-time popular organic gardener Ruth Stout
 . Over the years Ruth had created beautiful soil and that fertile
soil was a big factor in her success. Perform the Stout method on great soil
and expect great yields of delicious potatoes. But try the technique on old
worn out and unimproved ground and get ready to learn some patience and gain
some humility. Potatoes are heavy feeders and they will respond dramatically
to good fertility and tilth. Your yield will suffer to the extent that the
soil you plant in lacks proper fertility and water.

As to laying the seed pieces on top of the ground, shallow planting the
potato seed piece into 1 to 2 inches of soil beneath the deep mulch would be
a good compromise and would provide superior results because it is more in
keeping with tried and true traditional potato planting methods Also, be
sure the mulch is not so dense and packed that the developing potato plants
can't find their way to sunlight. One final word of caution: If you have big
problems with slugs or mice the deep mulch method can add to your troubles.

If you have more questions about growing potatoes, or want to try out some
of Wood Prairie Farm's 16 organic varieties, you can reach them at
www.woodprairie.com   or
800-829-9765   . (And if you have trouble with insect pests on your
potatoes, be sure to try their new 'King Harry'
  variety, which is naturally highly resistant to flea
beetles, Colorado potato beetles and leafhoppers.)

 

 

 

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Central Vac System

[Barry Levine]

Howdy Folks,

We've had a central vac system since we built the house 23 years ago.
We've, just in the past year, replaced the motor and cannister.  We've
replaced the hoses a few times throughout the years, but are on only our
second vacuum head.

We've enjoyed the ease of use.  Yes, you still need to deal with the
hoses... But, they're not quite as bulky or heavy as a whole vacuum cleaner.

We had outlets placed in every room, plus the garage, my workshop, other
areas of the basement, etc.
We also have that dustpan thing in the kitchen.  It's placed at a baseboard
and works great.

One of the best features of a central vac system is the motor, therefore,
the suction power.  All in all, we've enjoyed this central vac setup.  But,
as with anything else, it's a matter of personal preference.


--Barry

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: central vacuum system

[carl]

so apart from quiarter running and keeping dust alagys at bay what other 
advantages are thair in sutch a system?

  - Original Message - 
  From: Don 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 9:01 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: central vacuum system


  Yeah, that is a problem, you would not think about happening. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Victor Gouveia 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 8:22 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: central vacuum system

  Hi All,

  I work in a home with such a system, and I have found one important, but 
  otherwise trivial problem that one might not look for.

  The outlets where you connect the vacuum hose.

  In the one house I work in, if you place repeated pressure on the outlet, 
  meaning if you pull too much on the hose, since the hose has little give in 
  terms of stretching capability, it can, and in my case, did pull out the 
  outlet to the point where the wires were hanging out of the wall, and the 
  outlet housing was stuck to the hose end.

  You might be wondering how and why the outlet came along with the hose end 
  when it was pulled, and/or why the hose simply didn't come off the wall 
  outlet when the hose was pulled. Well, the simple explanation is that the 
  outlet looks like a pet door on a regular home door.

  It consists of a flap that covers the outlet when not in use.

  This flap has a lip that slides over the end of the hose when it is 
  connected to the outlet, not allowing it to come off so easily.

  I guess this is done as a safety precaution, and as a feature, as those 
  hoses would come off quite easily given the pressure with which you apply it 
  when vacuuming.

  The owner has had to replace several outlets because of this, and, as you 
  can imagine, it's not easy to do with wires connecting the outlet to the 
  hose.

  Just something to think about in terms of future maintenance on such units.

  Victor Gouveia 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: central vacuum system

[Don]

Yeah,  that is a problem, you would not think about happening.  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Victor Gouveia 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 8:22 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: central vacuum system


  Hi All,

  I work in a home with such a system, and I have found one important, but 
  otherwise trivial problem that one might not look for.

  The outlets where you connect the vacuum hose.

  In the one house I work in, if you place repeated pressure on the outlet, 
  meaning if you pull too much on the hose, since the hose has little give in 
  terms of stretching capability, it can, and in my case, did pull out the 
  outlet to the point where the wires were hanging out of the wall, and the 
  outlet housing was stuck to the hose end.

  You might be wondering how and why the outlet came along with the hose end 
  when it was pulled, and/or why the hose simply didn't come off the wall 
  outlet when the hose was pulled. Well, the simple explanation is that the 
  outlet looks like a pet door on a regular home door.

  It consists of a flap that covers the outlet when not in use.

  This flap has a lip that slides over the end of the hose when it is 
  connected to the outlet, not allowing it to come off so easily.

  I guess this is done as a safety precaution, and as a feature, as those 
  hoses would come off quite easily given the pressure with which you apply it 
  when vacuuming.

  The owner has had to replace several outlets because of this, and, as you 
  can imagine, it's not easy to do with wires connecting the outlet to the 
  hose.

  Just something to think about in terms of future maintenance on such units.

  Victor Gouveia 



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] new hearing protection

[Don]

Jim, great information here.  Hearing protection, is so important for all of 
us.  
  - Original Message - 
  From: cheetah 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 12:18 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] new hearing protection


  hi just wanted to tell everyone about the new gadget i got today.

  it is the hearing protection from sensgard.
  that i read about in one of the magazines that was read by 
  woodworking for the blind.
  i think one of the earlier issues about 4 or 5.

  first they are very light.
  only about 2 ounces or so.
  what they look like.
  take a print letter l, then make it about 7 inches long for the top 
  leg and about 3 quarters long for the side leg.
  the side leg of the l is what fits in your ear.
  the ear piece is made of that foam that you can squish a bit and 
  slide it in your ear.
  but they tell you to put them in your ears then turn them forwards 
  and back a quarter turn until they have a good fit.
  you will know they are in right when all the sounds sound muffled.
  but that's the cool part.
  with them in you can still hear people talking and under stand them.
  you can hear paper rattle or other sounds.
  oh yeah the side pieces that look like els are joined together like a 
  set of headphones.
  they open out pretty good incase you have a larger head.
  the long part of the l is about 3 quarter inch thick and that's where 
  the sound magic happens.
  in there is a filter of some kind that helps filter out the damaging sounds.
  also i was told that the sound goes in the device in such a way that 
  it comes back hitting the next sound thus canceling out the bad sound.

  well all i know is that it works.
  i put them on and made about 5 cuts on the table saw.
  wow it was like i could hear the saw teeth hitting the wood and the 
  motor and belt sounds but the high scream was gone.

  then i went out back and shot ten shots out of my forty five pistol.
  again wow yes the shot was still loud but not sharp.
  and i could still hear the brass hitting the ground.

  they come with two extra sets of foam ear pieces and a nice case that 
  looks like a glass case.the kind you slide your glasses in from the end.

  i love these.
  heres there web site and number in case you are interested.

  www.sensgard.com
  8772080883

  Jim in Minnesota



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] weed eaters

[carl]

speacking of them what is the safe way to use one i'm in the uk and doan't 
realey kno the stance to take or anything like that 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rob Monitor 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 7:22 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] weed eaters


  HI, I have a old weed eater that some one gave me not sure what kind it is 
but it's a cheep one. What I would like to find out is the flywheel on a weed 
eater heavy enough to run the motor with out the shaft on it?? Like most 
smaller lawn mowers have to have the blade on it to run does a weed eater have 
to have the shaft with the string on it??
  THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] DIY Gluing Tips

[Donnie Parrett]

Hey Lenny,

This makes about 10 or 12 times that I have gotten this email over the past 
week or so.  What's
going on?

Contact me at:
Donnie Parrett
1956 Asa Flat Road
Annville, KY  40402
Home #  606-364-3321
Cell #  606-438-2557
Church #  606-364-PRAY
Skype Name:  Donnie1261
Email:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]


-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 8:59 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] DIY Gluing Tips


Ray, this is a keeper. One tip that I learned is to store your open glue
bottles upside down. This keeps the air at the bottom of the bottle and away
from the tip so anything that gets hard is  at the bottom of the bottle.
Lenny, Please visit my home page http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
It's motivating, humorous and has a lot of resources.


- Original Message -
From: "Ray Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 4:37 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] DIY Gluing Tips


Sealed glue containers will usually last about a year, but glue in open
containers has a shorter shelf life. The shelf life depends on the exposure
to air and moisture as well as heat and cold. If you only do occasional glue
jobs, purchase small containers. Glues also have an "open," "clamp" or
"working" time. Mixed or two-part glues also have a pot life, or how long
they stay usable after mixing. For longer life, keep glue containers closed
and store at room temperatures. On glue bottles with applicator tips, always
clean off and close the tip.



http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/hotprod_images/1aGluingTT1.jpg

Place newspaper on a smooth, flat surface and position clamps as neede.

Dry-fit all pieces to make sure they join smoothly and fit properly.





http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/hotprod_images/1aGluingTT2.jpg

Clamp pads, such as these jet pads on jet clamps, prevent denting or marring
wood surfaces, especially important when gluing softwoods.



Most glues work best at 50 degrees or above, or at room temperature. Check
the product label for proper temperature use. Have everything ready for
gluing before you start the glue-up or clamping procedure. You'll need a
clean, flat, smooth surface. A good tip is to first cover the surface with
old newspapers to catch drips. Gather the clamps you need, making sure you
have plenty. One of the most important tips is dry fitting parts. This is
especially important if gluing intricate joints such as mortise and tenon or
frame and panel. Joints should slide together smoothly, but not too tightly
or there won't be enough room for the glue. If you are using dowels or
biscuits, make sure you have enough of the right size on hand before you
start. You'll also need cloths for clean-up and protective gloves for some
materials. In most instances you will also need clamp blocks or pads to
protect wood surfaces, especially soft woods, from denting under clamp
pressure.



http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/hotprod_images/1aGluingTT3.jpg

When gluing wood pieces together, make sure all surfaces are smooth and
clean. For instance, when edge-gluing narrow strips to make up a wider
strip, the edges should be run over a jointer or sanded smooth.



Glue can be applied with a glue-bottle applicator tip, but it's important to
evenly coat the wood surface. Thin strips of wood can be used as "paddles"
to smooth out beads of glue to more thoroughly coat the surface of narrow
joint pieces, inside mortises or dadoes and for edge-jointing. If coating
larger surfaces, such as when gluing down veneers, or making laminated
parts, a roller is the best choice for a smooth and thorough application.



http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/hotprod_images/1aGluingTT4.jpg

With all pieces glue-coated, tighten the clamps. Alternate the clamps,
tighten one somewhat, then tighten the second or other clamps about the same
until you have all clamped equally.



Different glues have different gap-filling capacities, but regardless, the
mating surfaces should be sanded smooth and cleaned of any oil, dirt or
sanding dust. They should also mate properly. In edge-gluing make sure all
edges are jointed or edge-sanded and that they fit smoothly together without
gaps.



http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/hotprod_images/1aGluingTT5.jpg

A small bead of glue should be squeezed out of the joints. When gluing with
wood-worker's glue, this can be wiped away with a cloth dampened with water.



http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/hotprod_images/1aGluingTT6.jpg

Rather than using a cloth, a better method for removing glue on softwoods is
to wait for 30 minutes and then cut away excess glue with a sharp chisel.



Different glues also require somewhat different techniques. PVA or "white"
glue and aliphatic resin glues, often called "carpenter's," "wood" or
"yellow" glues are the most common glues used in woodworking. The latter
come in waterproof versions. White glue has a somewhat longer working time
than most

Re: [BlindHandyMan] DIY Gluing Tips

[Lenny McHugh]

Ray, this is a keeper. One tip that I learned is to store your open glue 
bottles upside down. This keeps the air at the bottom of the bottle and away 
from the tip so anything that gets hard is  at the bottom of the bottle.
Lenny, Please visit my home page http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
It's motivating, humorous and has a lot of resources.


- Original Message - 
From: "Ray Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 4:37 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] DIY Gluing Tips


Sealed glue containers will usually last about a year, but glue in open
containers has a shorter shelf life. The shelf life depends on the exposure
to air and moisture as well as heat and cold. If you only do occasional glue
jobs, purchase small containers. Glues also have an "open," "clamp" or
"working" time. Mixed or two-part glues also have a pot life, or how long
they stay usable after mixing. For longer life, keep glue containers closed
and store at room temperatures. On glue bottles with applicator tips, always
clean off and close the tip.



http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/hotprod_images/1aGluingTT1.jpg

Place newspaper on a smooth, flat surface and position clamps as neede.

Dry-fit all pieces to make sure they join smoothly and fit properly.





http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/hotprod_images/1aGluingTT2.jpg

Clamp pads, such as these jet pads on jet clamps, prevent denting or marring
wood surfaces, especially important when gluing softwoods.



Most glues work best at 50 degrees or above, or at room temperature. Check
the product label for proper temperature use. Have everything ready for
gluing before you start the glue-up or clamping procedure. You'll need a
clean, flat, smooth surface. A good tip is to first cover the surface with
old newspapers to catch drips. Gather the clamps you need, making sure you
have plenty. One of the most important tips is dry fitting parts. This is
especially important if gluing intricate joints such as mortise and tenon or
frame and panel. Joints should slide together smoothly, but not too tightly
or there won't be enough room for the glue. If you are using dowels or
biscuits, make sure you have enough of the right size on hand before you
start. You'll also need cloths for clean-up and protective gloves for some
materials. In most instances you will also need clamp blocks or pads to
protect wood surfaces, especially soft woods, from denting under clamp
pressure.



http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/hotprod_images/1aGluingTT3.jpg

When gluing wood pieces together, make sure all surfaces are smooth and
clean. For instance, when edge-gluing narrow strips to make up a wider
strip, the edges should be run over a jointer or sanded smooth.



Glue can be applied with a glue-bottle applicator tip, but it's important to
evenly coat the wood surface. Thin strips of wood can be used as "paddles"
to smooth out beads of glue to more thoroughly coat the surface of narrow
joint pieces, inside mortises or dadoes and for edge-jointing. If coating
larger surfaces, such as when gluing down veneers, or making laminated
parts, a roller is the best choice for a smooth and thorough application.



http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/hotprod_images/1aGluingTT4.jpg

With all pieces glue-coated, tighten the clamps. Alternate the clamps,
tighten one somewhat, then tighten the second or other clamps about the same
until you have all clamped equally.



Different glues have different gap-filling capacities, but regardless, the
mating surfaces should be sanded smooth and cleaned of any oil, dirt or
sanding dust. They should also mate properly. In edge-gluing make sure all
edges are jointed or edge-sanded and that they fit smoothly together without
gaps.



http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/hotprod_images/1aGluingTT5.jpg

A small bead of glue should be squeezed out of the joints. When gluing with
wood-worker's glue, this can be wiped away with a cloth dampened with water.



http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/hotprod_images/1aGluingTT6.jpg

Rather than using a cloth, a better method for removing glue on softwoods is
to wait for 30 minutes and then cut away excess glue with a sharp chisel.



Different glues also require somewhat different techniques. PVA or "white"
glue and aliphatic resin glues, often called "carpenter's," "wood" or
"yellow" glues are the most common glues used in woodworking. The latter
come in waterproof versions. White glue has a somewhat longer working time
than most yellow glues, and this allows for easier assembly of complicated
projects, such as frame and panels. Yellow glue, on the other hand, has a
shorter clamping time. Titebond II Extend Glue is a commercial glue that has
a slower speed of set and is ideal for exterior applications involving
complex assemblies. Titebond Molding & Trim Wood Glue, however, is extremely
fast setting, with a no-drip, no-run formula that dries clear, making it
ideal for glue-ups of prefinished molding and trim. Titebond Dark Glue is a
good choice for gluin

[BlindHandyMan] weed eaters

[Rob Monitor]

HI, I have a old weed eater that some one gave me not sure what kind it is but 
it's a cheep one. What I would like to find out is the flywheel on a weed eater 
heavy enough to run the motor with out the shaft on it?? Like most smaller lawn 
mowers have to have the blade on it to run does a weed eater have to  have the  
shaft with the string on it??
THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] new hearing protection

[cheetah]

hi just wanted to tell everyone about the new gadget i got today.

it is the hearing protection from sensgard.
that i read about in one of the magazines that was read by 
woodworking for the blind.
i think one of the earlier issues about 4 or 5.

first they are very light.
only about 2 ounces or so.
what they look like.
take a print letter l, then make it about 7 inches long for the top 
leg and about 3 quarters long for the side leg.
the side leg of the l is what fits in your ear.
the ear piece is made of that foam that you can squish a bit and 
slide it in your ear.
but they tell you to put them in your ears then turn them forwards 
and back a quarter turn until they have a good fit.
you will know they are in right when all the sounds sound muffled.
but that's the cool part.
with them in you can still hear people talking and under stand them.
you can hear paper rattle or other sounds.
oh yeah the side pieces that look like els are joined together like a 
set of headphones.
they open out pretty good incase you have a larger head.
the long part of the l is about 3 quarter inch thick and that's where 
the sound magic happens.
in there is a filter of some kind that helps filter out the damaging sounds.
also i was told that the sound goes in the device in such a way that 
it comes back hitting the next sound thus canceling out the bad sound.

well all i know is that it works.
i put them on and made about 5 cuts on the table saw.
wow it was like i could hear the saw teeth hitting the wood and the 
motor and belt sounds but the high scream was gone.

then i went out back and shot ten shots out of my forty five pistol.
again wow yes the shot was still loud but not sharp.
and i could still hear the brass hitting the ground.

they come with two extra sets of foam ear pieces and a nice case that 
looks like a glass case.the kind you slide your glasses in from the end.


i love these.
heres there web site and number in case you are interested.

www.sensgard.com
8772080883

Jim in Minnesota

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: central vacuum system

[Victor Gouveia]

Hi All,

I work in a home with such a system, and I have found one important, but 
otherwise trivial problem that one might not look for.

The outlets where you connect the vacuum hose.

In the one house I work in, if you place repeated pressure on the outlet, 
meaning if you pull too much on the hose, since the hose has little give in 
terms of stretching capability, it can, and in my case, did pull out the 
outlet to the point where the wires were hanging out of the wall, and the 
outlet housing was stuck to the hose end.

You might be wondering how and why the outlet came along with the hose end 
when it was pulled, and/or why the hose simply didn't come off the wall 
outlet when the hose was pulled.  Well, the simple explanation is that the 
outlet looks like a pet door on a regular home door.

It consists of a flap that covers the outlet when not in use.

This flap has a lip that slides over the end of the hose when it is 
connected to the outlet, not allowing it to come off so easily.

I guess this is done as a safety precaution, and as a feature, as those 
hoses would come off quite easily given the pressure with which you apply it 
when vacuuming.

The owner has had to replace several outlets because of this, and, as you 
can imagine, it's not easy to do with wires connecting the outlet to the 
hose.

Just something to think about in terms of future maintenance on such units.

Victor Gouveia 

[BlindHandyMan] Re: central vacuum system

[Guy]

Hi Jo:

I have such a system in my 3 level house. Actually, this is my second 
install. A few tips, install one outlet per floor with a 40 foot hose 
instead of the standard 30 foot one. There is an option called an 
automatic dust pan. It's a must. Install it near your entrance hall 
way or kitchen and you will never have to look for a dust pan again.  
Why people get such a system is because of the power and quiet 
operation. 

Regards
Guy Castonguay
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

--- In blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com, "Jo Taliaferro" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hi There,
> 
> I'm moving to a new house and wondering about the wisdom of 
investing in a
> central vacuum system.  The house is all on one floor with a 
partially
> finished basement and has about 2200 square feet.  What comments or
> recommendations do you have?
> Thanks...two dogs  want a clean house!
> Jo Taliaferro
> Encouraging others to live as solution-seekers
> 
> 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG. 
> Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.0/1344 - Release Date: 
3/26/2008
> 8:52 AM
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] upside down tomato plants

[Brice Mijares]

Thanks Ray.