Re: [BlindHandyMan] hammering a nail in?

2010-08-24 Thread Jewel
I have a question about driving in tacks where they are so short that there is 
not enough shaft 
under the head to be able to hold it.  The same applies to small staples.  What 
is the trick to 
holding them in place before they are anchored sufficiently into the timber?

   Jewel- Original Message - 
From: Jo Taliaferro soaringeag...@comcast.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 5:08 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] hammering a nail in?


Yeah, I get my best friend to hold the nail while I hammer! Lol.  I used to
play around in my dad's workshop and there were many times Dad found blood
on his workbench after my explorations.  I didn't want anyone to know I had
limitations!  I do better with smaller hammers because of the size of my
hands and because I tend to hold the hammer fairly close to the pounding
part and my other hand closer to what I want to pound the nail into.  Just
my own style.but it seems to work if I can just get the silly things in
straight!

The Handywoman,

Jo Taliaferro



From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Blake Hardin
Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 6:04 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] hammering a nail in?





hey all hows it going? Ok so when i was little i used to mess around
with hammering nails in and such but i was wondering how do you guys
do it? Like if im just trying to hammer a nail in to a board with a
hammer do i hold the nail with my fingers and try to aim for the nail
with the hamer? That allot of times will end up being my thumb under
the hammer rather than the nail haha. So does your aim just get better
with practis or do you have something you can put the nail in to hold
it so you wont have to use your fingrs?





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] BAH Fw: [Sci-tech] Odd but crual Giant alien weed (this is no joke

2010-07-16 Thread Jewel
John Wyndham's triffids?

Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2010 2:07 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] BAH Fw: [Sci-tech] Odd but crual Giant alien weed 
(this is no joke


There have been a few discovered down by Sudbury, about four hours south of 
here. Apparently they 
are quite spectacular to see.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Spiro
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 8:06 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] BAH Fw: [Sci-tech] Odd but crual Giant alien weed 
(this is no joke



  Hey Dale be careful!
  To: 'Science, Technology, Mathematics, SCI-FI, and more.'
  Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 7:51 PM
  Subject: [Sci-tech] Odd but crual Giant alien weed

  Subject: [Members] Giant weed that can cause blindness popping up in 
Ontario,B.C.

  Officials scrambling to destroy the plant that can also cause burns and
  permanent scarring.

  Ciara Byrne

  Globe and Mail, Jul. 09, 2010 5:26PM EDT

  Toronto - The Canadian Press - A weed that can grow six metres tall, sprout 
massive leaves and 
produce toxic,
  blindness inducing sap is creeping into Ontario and parts of British Columbia.
  Giant hogweed is easily identified by its teetering height. The leaves on the
  weed fan out as much as 1.5 metres in diameter. It is also identified by its
  tell-tale purple splotching on the stem and its umbrella-like cluster of 
white flowers.

  The plant, which was spotted around the coast in British Columbia in late 
June,
  and is known to flourish in the Lower Mainland, Fraser Valley, Gulf Islands, 
and
  central to southern Vancouver Island, was discovered in the Renfrew County 
area in
  eastern Ontario on Thursday.

  Jeff Muzzi, a manager of forestry services for Renfrew County, said officials
  have destroyed the toxic vegetation, but he said the indomitable weed has 
become a
  problem for other places in the province, including southwestern Ontario.
  It's giant. It's not a misnomer, said Mr. Muzzi as he explained the wondrous
  plant that seems to sprout in waste land areas, like ditches and vacant lots.

  David Galbraith, head of science at the Royal Botanical Gardens in Hamilton 
said
  he was intrigued by the enormous plant - which is part of the carrot family -
  when he saw a huge patch growing behind a gas station north of the Goderich, 
Ont.
  years ago.

  I thought it was the most amazing thing I'd ever seen, a great, big, huge
  spectacular plant, said Mr. Galbraith as he explained its allure.

  While it may look bewildering - almost begging to be examined by an amateur
  botanist or a green thumb - the consequences of touching the weed could scar 
a person for
  life.

  The sap gets activated by sunlight, so once you get out on the sun it reacts
  and can cause really bad burns, blistering and scars, said Mr. Muzzi.
  It has also been known to cause temporary blindness or, in extreme cases,
  permanent loss of eyesight, said Mr. Muzzi.

  Within 24 to 48 hours after a person comes in contact with the sap, the 
symptoms
  will begin to appear, he added.

  The challenge is trying to uproot and remove the invasive weed, a careful task
  Mr. Muzzi tackled on Thursday.

  In the 35 degree heat I was snipping the flower heads off and I was wearing a
  Tyvex suit and eye protection, said Mr. Muzzi.
  It may seem extreme, but it's exactly what the Invasive Plants Council of
  British Columbia recommends an expert wear when they're removing the 
worrisome weed. The
  council recommends waterproof gloves, a rubber raincoat and pants and eye
  protection.

  Gail Wallin, the executive director of the council, said the weed has become
  dense and has recently spread on Vancouver Island.

  It's the one plant that in the last month I've received scads of calls, said
  Ms. Wallin.

  Its large roots make it difficult to dig up, and after it's removed some 
experts
  suggest mowing the patch it was nestled on for several years to eliminate 
seeds
  in the soil.

  Given that giant hogweed can produce more than 100,000 seeds, there is the
  potential that it will spread, said Mr. Muzzi.

  Mr. Muzzi also said chemical herbicides can remove the plant, but since the
  cosmetic pesticide ban came into effect in Ontario, people have become wary 
of using any
  chemicals on plants.

  Experts believe it was brought from Asia to England, and then into North 
America
  as an ornamental plant, and quickly flourished in wet, moist areas without a
  natural enemy.

  Mr. Galbraith said the giant hogweed is an example of what happens when people
  introduce foreign plants into a garden.

  As an example of this problem, it's a spectacular one, said Mr. Galbraith.





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tin or galvanized

2010-07-12 Thread Jewel
To me, the words tin roof conjure up a vission of a roof composed of 
flattened tin cans that are 
rivetted or soldered together to make a roof.
We:  that is:  here in New Zealand, always refer to them as * iron, or 
corrugated iron roofs. 
Corrugated iron, as Dan suggested, is rippled steel that has been dipped in 
zinc.
We have a product called Colour steel where the zinc-coated steel has an 
additional covering of 
paint baked on to it.
In time, it may need repainting, but the original baked on colour does last for 
a very long time.  I 
think that one does have to take a little extra care to see that the coating on 
the sheets does not 
get scratched, but a little extra care taken at the beginning saves a hell of a 
lot of extra work in 
the longterm.

  Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu
To: Blind Handyman List BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 1:42 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Tin or galvanized


It appears from most readings, that tin roofs are just galvanized steel.
The process of dunking steel sheets into molten Zinc was called tinning.
Do I actually need to determine if my roof is really tin, or just Zinc
coated steel?  After 80 years, is there any Zinc left or has it all been
consumed by now?  Do I just stop over analyzing this and go slap on some
paint?

I have now read about oil based paints reacting with Zinc, but am still
trying to find out what the best solution is.

I appreciate many of the suggestions, but one issue is that I need to be
able to paint the roof red so that it doesn't stick out like a black eye
in the neighborhood.  I believe it would look stupid to have one silver or
white roof and 19 red roofs around the courtyard.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system

2010-07-01 Thread Jewel
My decking planks have about a quarter inch gap between each for air 
circulation.  Unless you seal 
every join, I think that you are running a risk of them rotting as water can 
seep down between the 
planks and with them being so tightly packed together, there will be no chance 
of them drying out.

Jewel
- Original Message 




Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system

2010-07-01 Thread Jewel
My deck has been in place for 10 years and the gap between the planks has never 
increased.
Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Alan  Terrie Robbins arobb...@nycap.rr.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 10:42 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system


Jewel,

You bring up an excellent point. With the type decking I'm

using, over time the boards dry and contract leaving a small

gap of an eighth to a quarter inch or better. If I start

with a gap, eventually the gap will be too wide and could

create some other issues

Al

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Jewel
  Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 6:25 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system



  My decking planks have about a quarter inch gap between each for air
circulation. Unless you seal
  every join, I think that you are running a risk of them rotting as water
can seep down between the
  planks and with them being so tightly packed together, there will be no
chance of them drying out.

  Jewel
  - Original Message






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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system

2010-07-01 Thread Jewel
Bob!  I didn't install the deck myself, but we ran out of boards before it was 
completed, so it was 
left to me to put the last few boards on, and I did as you:  used a 4 inch nail 
as a spacer.

  Jewel


- Original Message - 
From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system


When I started building decks, I was told to use a 16 penny nail as a spacer 
between planks.  That 
was a uniform size and as the planks dried out, it didn't leave too much of a 
gap.

I took the nails and drove them through pieces of scrap wood so I didn't have 
to hold them while I 
was trying to line the planks up.  The wood kept the nails from falling to the 
ground.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jewel
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 6:25 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system



  My decking planks have about a quarter inch gap between each for air 
circulation. Unless you seal
  every join, I think that you are running a risk of them rotting as water can 
seep down between the
  planks and with them being so tightly packed together, there will be no 
chance of them drying out.

  Jewel
  - Original Message





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system

2010-07-01 Thread Jewel
Hey Dale!  you go and wash ya mouth out!  The rest of New Zealand has had quite 
a deal of the wet 
stuff this winter, but down here in Southland, we have had hardly a drop!

 Jewel

- Original Message - 
From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system


That is because everything over there is so bloody wet all the time that the 
timber never dries out.

Which reminds me; Why don't sheep shrink in the rain?

Canada is 143 years old today. they are shooting fire works over the lake in 
town to celebrate as I 
write this. Happy birthday to us!

Dale Leavens.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Jewel
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 9:12 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system



  My deck has been in place for 10 years and the gap between the planks has 
never increased.
  Jewel
  - Original Message - 
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins arobb...@nycap.rr.com
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 10:42 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system

  Jewel,

  You bring up an excellent point. With the type decking I'm

  using, over time the boards dry and contract leaving a small

  gap of an eighth to a quarter inch or better. If I start

  with a gap, eventually the gap will be too wide and could

  create some other issues

  Al

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Jewel
  Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 6:25 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system

  My decking planks have about a quarter inch gap between each for air
  circulation. Unless you seal
  every join, I think that you are running a risk of them rotting as water
  can seep down between the
  planks and with them being so tightly packed together, there will be no
  chance of them drying out.

  Jewel
  - Original Message

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
  blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] ozone

2010-06-26 Thread Jewel
I have heard it said that you can smell * ozone at the seaside.  Is this 
actually ozone, or just * 
ocean and related smells like seaweed etc?

  Jewel 




Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse

2010-06-19 Thread Jewel
I have just rung one of our local hardware/D I Y retailers and find that they 
have the jawHorse in 
stock.  Its price is 249$NZ which converts to 173 US.  It sounds as though it 
would be the kind of 
always ready to lend a helping hand mate that I could use.  How does the NZ 
price compare to what 
it is on your market?

   Jewel

- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, June 20, 2010 1:16 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse


I just picked one up today.  They were having a special at Lowes, and I
had a gift card.  It has three legs, two in front, and one further back
along a rail.  The top rail holds two clamping jaws.  They can open to
about 24 inches I think.  There is a foot peddle that you can use to close
the jaws of the clamp.

The jaws extend beyond the legs so that you can hold items by their edge,
vertically.  The picture shows a door being held vertically in place while
the hinges are positioned on the door jam.

The claim is that clamping force is 2200 pounds.

Looks pretty handy.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Jawhorse, Folding Sawhorse, Clamping Workbench | Rockwell

2010-06-19 Thread Jewel
Oh!  I have just read the blurb for the Rockwell JawHorse, along with the 
price, so the NZ price is 
near enough to being  identical to yours.

Jewel

- Original Message - 
From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net
To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, June 20, 2010 1:23 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Jawhorse, Folding Sawhorse, Clamping Workbench | 
Rockwell


The Jawhorse™ is the only workstation you'll ever need!
The strong and versatile Jawhorse replaces your workbenches, your sawhorses,
your clamps, your bench vises and so much more. With the Jawhorse you get a
second set of hands for all your projects. You'll save time, you'll work
safer and you'll save yourself from hassle!

It's a powerful, hands-free clamp and sawhorse.
If you can lift it, you can clamp it. The Jawhorse's powerful clamping jaws
allow you to securely clamp virtually anything, so you have hands-free
access to safely complete your project. You can even clamp wide items like
doors or plywood thanks to the 37-inch clamping width. And with the optional
extension, you'll get a full 48-inches of clamping power.

It's a versatile workbench.
Thanks to its flexible design, the Jawhorse lets you get your projects up
and off the ground for a comfortable working height. Simply clamp an
ordinary piece of plywood into the Jawhorse and you have a perfect
workbench. You can even use it on the jobsite as a sturdy platform for miter
saws, tile saws and more.

It's a one-ton vise and machine press.
Whether you're bending metal or straightening it, the Jawhorse's strength
and stability allow you to be aggressive with your work. The Jawhorse is
made of solid steel and has ten times the clamping power of a regular vise.
It also features the industrial pressing power of a one-ton machine press.

Order your Jawhorse today for just 4 easy payments of $44.44.
Don't start your next project without the Rockwell Jawhorse. Get your
Jawhorse today for just 4 easy payments of $44.44. Or, make a single payment
of $177.76 and get a FREE 5 YEAR WARRANTY! Remember, the Jawhorse is not
available in stores, so order yours online today!
http://www.rockwelltoolsdirect.com/jawhorse/workbench.html





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] baked lumber

2010-05-26 Thread Jewel
There was an instance recently where a piece of furniture made from Kauri that 
had been buried in a 
swamp for an estimated 10 years sold for 5$ on trademe, the 
Australasian twin of ebay.

  Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: John Sherrer j...@whitecane.org
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 7:37 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] baked lumber


My son is in Germany, staying in an old castle.  The roof is clay tiles 
supported with very large 
beams.  My son told me that these beams were submerged in mud several months 
before use in this 
structure.  They did it to keep bugs out of the wood.  A beam did crack this 
winter and had to be 
replaced, due to a fungus called sponge.
Reading what you folks are saying about heat treated wood, the soaking in mud 
must remove the 
resins.
John
http://WhiteCane.org
http://BlindWoodWorker.com
http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
http://anellos.ws

  - Original Message - 
  From: Ron Yearns
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 10:25 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] baked lumber



  Hey definately not just kiln dried. This is a new product to me. Never too 
old to learn.
  Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 11:54 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor

  For the next wishing well planter that I make I plan to use baked lumber.
  Baked lumber is heated to I think about 400 degrees. This destroys all of
  the sugar in the wood making it insect proof and rot resistant
  Here is some more information from Baley wood products the saw mill from
  which I purchase all of my wood.
  http://www.baileywp.com/html/thermo.html
  What is Thermo-Treated Wood?

  Thermo-Treatment is the process of gradually heating any species of lumber
  to temperatures of 410 - 450º F in a special chamber that has had the oxygen
  completely removed from the system. These conditions are needed to prevent
  the wood from combusting, which takes place at temperatures over 300º F.

  Why Use Thermo-Treated Wood?

  a.. Durability: 25 year life span can be expected for exterior
  applications

  b.. Moisture Repulsion: The process seals the cellular structure of the
  wood making it impervious to water and moisture

  c.. Stabilizaton: Swelling and shrinkage is reduced as well as cracking
  and checking

  d.. Color: Consistent brown color all the way through to the very center
  of the board

  e.. Chemical Free: Chemicals are not used in the Thermo-Treatment process
  which makes this product an environmentally friendly alternative.
  Milling:

  Sawing: Sawing does not differ much from sawing untreated wood. Because of
  the stabilization from the heat treatment, distortion of the wood is greatly
  reduced after sawing. Since the Thermo-Treatment eliminates the resins in
  the wood, machines require little cleaning after milling.

  Planing: Machines well using all normal methods. Sharp Cutters provide the
  best results, as with all woods.

  Milling: Blades must be sharp, otherwise tearout may occur. Milling across
  the grain may increase tear out. Tearout is most likely to take place at the
  end of a board where there is a thick piece of wood behind the blade.
  Careful planning should be taken into consideration.

  Sanding: Material sands generally the same as untreated wood. Due to the
  absence of resins in the wood that has been crystalized in the process, the
  sand paper does not load up like it does with untreated woods.

  Surface treatment: Use surface treatment that will protect against Ultra
  Violet radiation in order to prevent color changes and surface shakes. Take
  into account that Thermo-Treated wood has lower water absorption than normal
  wood and needs a longer time to penetrate the wood. Oil-based substances
  work just as well as they would with normal wood.

  Gluing: Longer Processing time is needed for the glue to be absorbed by the
  Thermo-treated wood, especially when using water based glues. Because the
  Thermo-Treated wood has a low moisture absorption, penetration and drying
  time of the glue is increased.

  Screwing: Heat treatment reduces the splitting strength of the wood. The use
  of self-tapping or predrilling hardware is recommended. Also, the use of
  stainless steel screws with less threads and countersunk heads is
  recommended for external use and in humid environments. We recommend not
  using galvanized fasteners as they tend to leave bleed marks on the woods
  surface over time.

  Nailing: It is recommended to use a compressed air gun with depth control
  since hammer contact with the wood promotes splitting. To reduce the risk of
  discoloration from metal nails, the use of stainless steel nails is
  recommended. Small oval head nails help to reduce the risk of splitting as
  well.

  For more information on thermo-treated woods, please visit this website

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor

2010-05-18 Thread Jewel
perhaps offer a fun-filled  holiday to the Rossis.

   Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Tom Vos vo...@iowatelecom.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2010 11:43 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor


Are there any alternatives for a basement floor other than concrete?

We have a room in the basement with a dirt floor.  It's not very usable that
way, but to get concrete down there will be tough.

There are no windows, so concrete would have to be hauled through the entry
and kitchen and down the stairs.

Or we could carry bags of Redi Mix, but it's going to take  a whale of a lot
of bags to do the room.  It's only about 12 feet square, but that's a lot of
lugging.

Any ideas?

Blessings,

Tom



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[BlindHandyMan] Electronic ear protectors

2010-05-10 Thread Jewel
The list was discussing these ages ago, and I am trying to find if they are 
available on the New 
Zealand market.
Can anyone refresh my memory as to the brand, and just what their functions are?
If they are * electronic, they must have a battery pack, which, I seem to 
recall, controls the 
amount of ambient sound that reaches the wearer's ears.

   Jewel 




Re: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders

2010-04-13 Thread Jewel
Linda!  You can make your own by taking a short length of fuse wire and 
doubling it.  Put the thread 
in the elbow and poke it through the eye in the needle.  The wire will take the 
thread through and 
then all you need to do is hold the thread and slip the fuse wire off it.
This is, virtually, the same as the ones you can get from blind equipment 
places with the exception 
that the little piece of tin to which the fuse wire is attached is not there, 
and it is not 
necessary anyway.

Jewel - Original Message - 
From: lvmumford lmumf...@uga.edu
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:15 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders


I need to do some hand sewing and would like some advice about needle 
threaders. I am completely 
blind and I know there are needle threaders out there but don't know whick ones 
are the most blind 
user friendly.
Much thanks,
Linda






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Re: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders

2010-04-13 Thread Jewel
Fuse wire not available in the USA!  What do you use instead for making fuses?

   Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 11:25 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders


Hi Jewel,

I doubt fuse wire is available in North America. Your point though is well 
taken. Any fine stiff 
wire would do.

If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jewel
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 6:59 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders



  Linda! You can make your own by taking a short length of fuse wire and 
doubling it. Put the thread
  in the elbow and poke it through the eye in the needle. The wire will take 
the thread through and
  then all you need to do is hold the thread and slip the fuse wire off it.
  This is, virtually, the same as the ones you can get from blind equipment 
places with the 
exception
  that the little piece of tin to which the fuse wire is attached is not there, 
and it is not
  necessary anyway.

  Jewel - Original Message - 
  From: lvmumford lmumf...@uga.edu
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:15 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders

  I need to do some hand sewing and would like some advice about needle 
threaders. I am completely
  blind and I know there are needle threaders out there but don't know whick 
ones are the most blind
  user friendly.
  Much thanks,
  Linda

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
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List Members At The
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] changed fuse wire?

2010-04-13 Thread Jewel
There are several grades depending on the amount of ampherage it is expected to 
carry, but, 
essentially, it is very fine flexible wire

Jewel.- Original Message - 
From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 11:58 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] changed fuse wire?


What is fuse wire?

Only thing I know called fuse wire is almost solder used in some weird equipment
as fuses.
What I've seen wouldn't be springy.

Tom Fowle






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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fuses

2010-04-13 Thread Jewel
My auxiliary fuse board out in the workshop has a circuit breaker on it, but 
the main one in the 
house has regular fuse boxes.
Most light bulbs have two little extrusions at the base and they are fitted 
into matching notches in 
the fixed part of the connection and then the bulb is turned so that it will 
not fall out. 
Jewel
Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 12:55 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Fuses


We don't make fuses, we buy them already made.

House circuits, when fused use a glass cartridge fuse which screws into a 
receptacle or socket. Our 
lamp bulbs screw into sockets as well. I believe your bulbs are the bayonet 
style of fitting with 
two spring loaded contacts which connect with contacts on the bottom of the 
bulb base. Ours have one 
contact on the bottom of the base, the threaded wall forms the other contact.

There are tubular fuses with metal capped ends too, something like those used 
in the more modern 
British 13 Amp ring circuit wiring which they install into the big square plugs 
but which we more 
usually use in automotive fused circuits or occasionally in the equipment 
itself. Now of course most 
circuits are protected by switched circuit breakers. I don't know if the ring 
main is used in New 
Zealand or Australia. Switch style circuit breakers are becoming more common in 
England I do know, 
they were unknown when I lived there 40 years ago.


If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jewel
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 8:05 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders



  Fuse wire not available in the USA! What do you use instead for making fuses?

  Jewel
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 11:25 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders

  Hi Jewel,

  I doubt fuse wire is available in North America. Your point though is well 
taken. Any fine stiff
  wire would do.

  If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jewel
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 6:59 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders

  Linda! You can make your own by taking a short length of fuse wire and 
doubling it. Put the thread
  in the elbow and poke it through the eye in the needle. The wire will take 
the thread through and
  then all you need to do is hold the thread and slip the fuse wire off it.
  This is, virtually, the same as the ones you can get from blind equipment 
places with the
  exception
  that the little piece of tin to which the fuse wire is attached is not there, 
and it is not
  necessary anyway.

  Jewel - Original Message - 
  From: lvmumford lmumf...@uga.edu
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:15 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders

  I need to do some hand sewing and would like some advice about needle 
threaders. I am completely
  blind and I know there are needle threaders out there but don't know whick 
ones are the most blind
  user friendly.
  Much thanks,
  Linda

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
  blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
  To listen to the show archives go to link
  
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
  Or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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List Members At The
  Following address:
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address for more
  information:
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  message to:
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  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw

2010-04-07 Thread Jewel
The chain shouldn't be moving at all when the motor is idling.  If you want to 
be doubly certain 
that it isn't, pull the brake on.

   Jewel- Original Message - 
From: john schwery jschw...@embarqmail.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 2:28 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw


How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling?

earlier, John Sherrer, wrote:


Some tips I have are:
1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back.

2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the
chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up.

3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You
do not want them to get into your way.

4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off.

5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to
cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting
hurt, take corrective action and continue.

Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt.

John
http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org
http://BlindWoodWorker.com
http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws

- Original Message -
From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw

  You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way
  to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this
  chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could
  cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I
  hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the
  saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However,
  being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations,
  it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the
  motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it
  best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical?
  Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held
  perpendicular to the work?
  I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a
  problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back
  and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than
  a handsaw. grin
 
  On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote:
 
  I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can
  use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for
  your job unless you have future use.
  If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is
  your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you
  want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good.
 
  If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off
  your hands.
 
  By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But
  if I had a good enough reason, I would use it.
 
  John
  http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org
  http://BlindWoodWorker.com
  http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
  http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws
 
  - Original Message -
  From: RJ
  To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
 
  If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job
  nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well,
  if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to
  handle.
  RJ
  - Original Message -
  From: Scott Berry
  To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
 
  Hello there,
 
  I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in
  diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do
  you recommend.
 
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
 
 
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
  
 
  Send any questions regarding list management to:
 
 mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
  To listen to the show archives go to link
 
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  Or
 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw

2010-04-06 Thread Jewel
and when there is a kickback, it is unlikely that you will be quick enough to 
release the throttle 
before serious damage is done.  However, having said that:  one has to be 
pretty careless to get 
hurt by a chainsaw.  Follow common sense safety practices , and have lots of 
fun!  If I can, and do: 
anyone can!

 Jewel

- Original Message - 
From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw


It depends on what you are cutting as to which direction to hold it.  But
keeping the tip away from things is very important.  I've had many cases of
kick back while sawing and it's nothing like we talk about with a table saw.

When a chain saw kicks back it isn't throwing wood at you, it's throwing
itself.

The best way to avoid kick back is to keep a good grip on the handle.  It
will help control any movement by the saw.  The chain brake is a good thing
to have in place but it won't necessarily engage every time the saw kicks
back.  Letting go of the trigger and keeping control of the front handle is
the only way to stop the saw from getting to you.


- Original Message - 
From: Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw


 You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way
 to use one.  I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this
 chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could
 cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I
 hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the
 saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However,
 being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations,
 it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the
 motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it
 best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical?
 Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held
 perpendicular to the work?
 I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a
 problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back
 and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than
 a handsaw. grin

 On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote:

 I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can
 use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for
 your job unless you have future use.
 If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is
 your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you
 want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good.

 If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off
 your hands.

 By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But
 if I had a good enough reason, I would use it.

 John
 http://WhiteCane.org
 http://BlindWoodWorker.com
 http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
 http://anellos.ws

 - Original Message - 
 From: RJ
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw

 If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job
 nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well,
 if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to
 handle.
 RJ
 - Original Message - 
 From: Scott Berry
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw

 Hello there,

 I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in
 diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do
 you recommend.

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] sticky stuff

2010-04-03 Thread Jewel
Sounds like blue tack, or is it glue tack.

Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: lvmumford lmumf...@uga.edu
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 12:52 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] sticky stuff


Hi List,

Someone gave me some wonderfully sticky stuff a few years ago and I want to get 
some more but I 
don't know what it's called. You break off a wad of this stuff, roll it in a 
ball like chewing gum, 
and then stick it to the bottom of an item that you want to stick to the 
surface of a table so it 
can't be knocked off (i.e. a clock on a night table). But this sticky stuff is 
not permanent and is 
easy to remove if you want to. Does anyone have any idea what I am talking 
about, what it is called, 
and where I can obtain it?
Much thanks,
Linda






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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Hauling lumber.

2010-04-02 Thread Jewel
Dan asked:  Can I fall back on the excuse that I am full of mature stupidity 
and
impetuousness?
and jewel answered with:  Welcome aboard Dan!  Come:  join the club!

- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 4:46 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Hauling lumber.


Jewel wrote:

 Betsy!  Dan can't fall back on the excuse that he was full of youthful
 stupidity and impetuousness
  because he and Teresa only bought their castle in the clouds about  4
 years ago;  mightn't have even been that long!

Jewel,

Your memory is quite good.  It will be five years in August that I
purchased this house.


-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Hauling lumber.

2010-04-01 Thread Jewel
Dan!  When you bought your castle in the clouds, did you give any consideration 
to all the future 
sweat and physical discomfort that you were letting yourself in for?

 Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu
To: Blind Handyman List BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 1:48 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Hauling lumber.


Yesterday morning, the truck carrying my lumber order showed up at the
bottom of the stairs.  I struck an agreement with the two guys, that they
would back the truck right up to the steps, pull their ramp to the first
landing, which skips the first 10 steps, then hand carry to the long
landing, which is another 10 or so steps.  For that, I'd give them an
extra 10 bucks each.  Then I would have to carry the lumber from the end
of the long landing, up another 25 steps, down the courtyard, around the
house, and into the basement.

This not being my first time at this, I broke out my tools, a 20 foot long
length of flat tubular webbing.  With this, and a fist full of Ibuprofen,
I can move just about anything.

I don't think I can accurately describe this.  I tie the webbing into a
large loop.  I then stack up some lumber on top of a couple of bricks.  I
slide one end of the boards through the loop of webbing.  I then crouch
down next to the lumber, with the stack of boards to my right.  I pull the
doubled webbing up my back and over my left shoulder, then down in front
of me.  I take the doubled webbing and wrap it around the stack of boards
twice, leaving enough of the end for me to hold.

When I stand up, all the weight of the lumber is on my shoulder, not my
hands or arms.  Even the free end of the webbing has very little tension
on it because the friction of it against the wood holds it in place.

It makes it quite easy to haul the lumber for any distance.

Because I had a mix of treated and untreated lumber, it reminded me of
just how damn heavy the treated boards are.

Lastly, my handy dandy, brand new, panel carrier did not come in handy.  I
tried hauling one of the OSB sheets with it, but it was just to damn
heavy.  So I tried looping the webbing around my shoulder and then hooking
the handle of the carrier through the loop.  No joy.  Still too heavy to
maneuver it up the stairs.  So I ended up ratchet strapping the boards to
a dolly.  it took a long time, but I eventually got everything up there.

I'm hurtin today.

  -- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Hauling lumber.

2010-04-01 Thread Jewel
Betsy!  Dan can't fall back on the excuse that he was full of youthful 
stupidity and impetuousness 
because he and Teresa only bought their castle in the clouds about  4 years 
ago;  mightn't have even 
been that long!

 Jewel- Original Message - 
From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press braill...@hawaii.rr.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 1:26 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Hauling lumber.


He probably figured he'd get it all done while he
was young and able. As a homeowner, I know it is never ending.
Betsy 




Re: [BlindHandyMan] mail box wet

2010-03-30 Thread Jewel
That sounds alittle like shutting the stable door after the horse has bolted.
OK, the water is getting out after it has soaked everything that is in the 
mailbox, but wouldn't it 
be better, in the first place, to find out how the water is getting in and, in 
the second place, 
preventing it from continuing to do so?

   Jewel- Original Message - 
From: john schwery jschw...@embarqmail.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 1:05 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mail box wet


I have noticed that after a rain, our mail box
would have a little bit of water in it.  To drill
some drainage holes in the bottom of the box, i
bought a right angle drill attachment from Harbor
Freight for $18.  It is made by Chicago Electric
and has a keyless chuck.  Not having much room in
the box to work with, I took a nail and a small
tack hammer and made by center punch of
holes.  Then, I put the attachment on my drill
and starting with a small bit, I used bigger bits
to make the holes big enough.  Then, I took a
pointed grinding wheel, put that in my drill and
took care of the burs in the holes, left over
from drilling.  I'm pleased with the right angle
attachment and we will see if the water drains out after the next rain.


John
Currently in Ocala, Florida Clear, 62°F
Wind:WSW-250° at 10mph gusting to 17mph
Unix is user-friendly. It's just very selective about who its friends are.
Created by Weather Signature v1.31 . http://www.weathersig.com





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] can this be used by the blind?

2010-03-18 Thread Jewel
A couple of years ago, I bought a 20 inch chainsaw, and although I had been 
using these saws for 
years without having an accident, the salesman said that he would not sell it 
to me, unless I signed 
a waiver stating that I would not sue the shop if I had an injury accident.
I did, but had no need to do so, as New Zealand has a no fault scheme wherein 
a person cannot 
bring an injury suit against an individual or corporate company.
This scheme is funded by the government and levies on employers.
However, The income of the ACC [accident compensation commission] is falling 
far below its expenses, 
and it is now in debt to the tune of about 4 billion dollars.
The Government is looking at bringing in a law to make compulsory private 
health and accident 
insurance.

Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] can this be used by the blind?


Couldn't agree more!
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 1:21 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] can this be used by the blind?



  Moderators, if this is unacceptably off topic I'll understand.

  Just to state my policy and maybe to cause a little OT flap,

  When I call a seller of a product that is not intended for blind folks, i
  never mention blindness or ask if there product can be used
  by the blind.

  Firstly how are they supposed to know, most sighted people havn't a clue,
  and second, you run the risk as was the case with a previous maker of talking
  meters, of causing the dealer to panic in fear of suits, and refuse to sell 
the
  product to blind folks.

  Mentioning blindness in that situation so rarely gets a usefull or positive
  response, and so often causes demonstrations of ignorance and prejudice,
  I don't think it's worth the risk.

  There are rare exceptions, sometimes in the case of travel it is to one's
  advantage to let a responsible hotel or airline etc. know you're blind and so
  on. But asking shmuck and company if there latest whizbang
  can be used by the blind is worse than a waiste of time.

  Tom Fowle





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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[BlindHandyMan] Tools and those who manufacture them

2010-03-15 Thread Jewel
I can only think that the garden tool I am about to describe must have been 
designed by a man.  I say that as I cannot believe that a woman could be so * 
STUPID!
The background:  Some years ago, there came onto the gardeners' market a very 
handy-dandy cultivator called a Garden Claw.  
It consisted of a T-bar handle and stem and at the bottom was an array of 
slightly bent spikes.  One jabbed this into the soil and turned it around and 
around, so creating a very nice tilth.
I didn't buy one at the time, and when I did go to, they were no longer being 
manufactured.
I asked the boss of one of the local engineering firms if he could make one of 
these tools, and he said, that as it happened, his boys had made some but he 
thought that what he had had a higher price tab on it than I would want to pay: 
 $250:  he was quite right.
However, his secretary had told him that she had seen, in a mail order 
catalogue,  a tool with four interchangeable heads that might be just what I 
wanted.
I rang the company and found that it cost only $60.  Now you're talking!
Well, the tool arrived today, and without having seen it, at the price, I 
thought that it might be made of rather poor quality steel, or aluminium, so I 
was pleasantly surprised to find that the steel was very solid, and here we 
come to the design fault, and what a fault it is!
Now for the description:  We have the T-bar handle, and down the centre of 
that, goes a steel rod that is supposed to have a spring on it.  I couldn't see 
what benefit the spring afforded, so I didn't bother putting it in the 
assembly.  Well, I did, but it was then that I figured that it was nothing but 
a nuisance so took the tool apart and removed the spring.
Now this rod that goes down through the stem emerges at the bottom and goes 
through the centre hole of the three that are there and match those that are on 
the head.  The two outside holes are for the bolt and wingnut that clamps the 
head to the handle.
This is the theory, but it only works in two of the four heads.  In the other 
two, where there should be a centre hole, there is solid steel, beneath which 
is the stem of the head on the end of which is the blade.
Another fault is that the plate to which one bolts the head, rather than being 
flat is concave, and the bolts that are provided are too short.  However, I 
found some slightly longer bolts among my spares.
I rang Enovations, the firm that sold this tool and asked the woman I spoke to 
if anyone had ever actually inspected the goods that they advertise?  for this 
tool, or half of it at any rate, is, as it stands, completely  unfit for the 
job.
I said that half of it was fine, so could I get a partial refund, rather than 
returning the entire tool?  She said that they didn't give partial refunds, so 
just return the whole thing and they would reimburse my Mastercard.
I really don't want to do that as I can see that with a simple, but perhaps, 
expensive modifications, the tool would work beautifully.
The modification would be to drive a reamer through the plate and down through 
the centre of the stem that I mentioned above, but how much would such a 
modification cost?  Murray will come around and take a look at it and let me 
know.  It shouldn't cost too much, but such a modification should never had 
been necessary.
I imagine that the tool is manufactured in China, and for the life of me, I 
cannot fathom why such a glaring fault was not picked up by quality control!

  Jewel

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tools and those who manufacture them

2010-03-15 Thread Jewel
Well, my knowledgable man did come in this morning, and made a very simple 
suggestion which isn't 
going to cost me a single cent and means that I can use the tool.  The rod that 
one drops down 
through the centre of the handle does not serve any essential purpose as it is 
only used to push 
weeds off the fork or dirt out of the planter, and this I can do, perfectly 
well, with my own 
delicate little paws, so the rod has been permanently removed.
Eve had Adam kicked out of the garden?  I don't think that Eve can be held 
entirely responsible. 
The fact that Adam was a spineless little creep played a major part in his 
eviction.  He didn't have 
to eat the fruit when his better half invited him to do so!
  Jewel

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Hodges tomhod...@fuse.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 6:47 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Tools and those who manufacture them


First you insult all men, and then you say you have a man coming by to fix
the tool for you.  What's up with that.

Also, us men may have spent more time working on and perfecting garden
tools, but, some woman, way back at the beginning, went and got us kicked
out of the garden.  Touche.



From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jewel
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 7:59 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Tools and those who manufacture them





I can only think that the garden tool I am about to describe must have been
designed by a man. I say that as I cannot believe that a woman could be so *
STUPID!
The background: Some years ago, there came onto the gardeners' market a very
handy-dandy cultivator called a Garden Claw.
It consisted of a T-bar handle and stem and at the bottom was an array of
slightly bent spikes. One jabbed this into the soil and turned it around and
around, so creating a very nice tilth.
I didn't buy one at the time, and when I did go to, they were no longer
being manufactured.
I asked the boss of one of the local engineering firms if he could make one
of these tools, and he said, that as it happened, his boys had made some but
he thought that what he had had a higher price tab on it than I would want
to pay: $250: he was quite right.
However, his secretary had told him that she had seen, in a mail order
catalogue, a tool with four interchangeable heads that might be just what I
wanted.
I rang the company and found that it cost only $60. Now you're talking!
Well, the tool arrived today, and without having seen it, at the price, I
thought that it might be made of rather poor quality steel, or aluminium, so
I was pleasantly surprised to find that the steel was very solid, and here
we come to the design fault, and what a fault it is!
Now for the description: We have the T-bar handle, and down the centre of
that, goes a steel rod that is supposed to have a spring on it. I couldn't
see what benefit the spring afforded, so I didn't bother putting it in the
assembly. Well, I did, but it was then that I figured that it was nothing
but a nuisance so took the tool apart and removed the spring.
Now this rod that goes down through the stem emerges at the bottom and goes
through the centre hole of the three that are there and match those that are
on the head. The two outside holes are for the bolt and wingnut that clamps
the head to the handle.
This is the theory, but it only works in two of the four heads. In the other
two, where there should be a centre hole, there is solid steel, beneath
which is the stem of the head on the end of which is the blade.
Another fault is that the plate to which one bolts the head, rather than
being flat is concave, and the bolts that are provided are too short.
However, I found some slightly longer bolts among my spares.
I rang Enovations, the firm that sold this tool and asked the woman I spoke
to if anyone had ever actually inspected the goods that they advertise? for
this tool, or half of it at any rate, is, as it stands, completely unfit for
the job.
I said that half of it was fine, so could I get a partial refund, rather
than returning the entire tool? She said that they didn't give partial
refunds, so just return the whole thing and they would reimburse my
Mastercard.
I really don't want to do that as I can see that with a simple, but perhaps,
expensive modifications, the tool would work beautifully.
The modification would be to drive a reamer through the plate and down
through the centre of the stem that I mentioned above, but how much would
such a modification cost? Murray will come around and take a look at it and
let me know. It shouldn't cost too much, but such a modification should
never had been necessary.
I imagine that the tool is manufactured in China, and for the life of me, I
cannot fathom why such a glaring fault was not picked up by quality control!

Jewel

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tools and those who manufacture them

2010-03-15 Thread Jewel
On the contrary!  * her knowledgeable engineer agreed that the spring served no 
purpose, and also 
the inner rod was not necessary.
- Original Message - 
From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tools and those who manufacture them


I am betting she didn't read the instructions. that spring for example probably 
has a function. You 
always get into trouble when you make presumptions.


If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Hodges
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 1:47 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Tools and those who manufacture them



  First you insult all men, and then you say you have a man coming by to fix
  the tool for you. What's up with that.

  Also, us men may have spent more time working on and perfecting garden
  tools, but, some woman, way back at the beginning, went and got us kicked
  out of the garden. Touche.

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Jewel
  Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 7:59 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Tools and those who manufacture them

  I can only think that the garden tool I am about to describe must have been
  designed by a man. I say that as I cannot believe that a woman could be so *
  STUPID!
  The background: Some years ago, there came onto the gardeners' market a very
  handy-dandy cultivator called a Garden Claw.
  It consisted of a T-bar handle and stem and at the bottom was an array of
  slightly bent spikes. One jabbed this into the soil and turned it around and
  around, so creating a very nice tilth.
  I didn't buy one at the time, and when I did go to, they were no longer
  being manufactured.
  I asked the boss of one of the local engineering firms if he could make one
  of these tools, and he said, that as it happened, his boys had made some but
  he thought that what he had had a higher price tab on it than I would want
  to pay: $250: he was quite right.
  However, his secretary had told him that she had seen, in a mail order
  catalogue, a tool with four interchangeable heads that might be just what I
  wanted.
  I rang the company and found that it cost only $60. Now you're talking!
  Well, the tool arrived today, and without having seen it, at the price, I
  thought that it might be made of rather poor quality steel, or aluminium, so
  I was pleasantly surprised to find that the steel was very solid, and here
  we come to the design fault, and what a fault it is!
  Now for the description: We have the T-bar handle, and down the centre of
  that, goes a steel rod that is supposed to have a spring on it. I couldn't
  see what benefit the spring afforded, so I didn't bother putting it in the
  assembly. Well, I did, but it was then that I figured that it was nothing
  but a nuisance so took the tool apart and removed the spring.
  Now this rod that goes down through the stem emerges at the bottom and goes
  through the centre hole of the three that are there and match those that are
  on the head. The two outside holes are for the bolt and wingnut that clamps
  the head to the handle.
  This is the theory, but it only works in two of the four heads. In the other
  two, where there should be a centre hole, there is solid steel, beneath
  which is the stem of the head on the end of which is the blade.
  Another fault is that the plate to which one bolts the head, rather than
  being flat is concave, and the bolts that are provided are too short.
  However, I found some slightly longer bolts among my spares.
  I rang Enovations, the firm that sold this tool and asked the woman I spoke
  to if anyone had ever actually inspected the goods that they advertise? for
  this tool, or half of it at any rate, is, as it stands, completely unfit for
  the job.
  I said that half of it was fine, so could I get a partial refund, rather
  than returning the entire tool? She said that they didn't give partial
  refunds, so just return the whole thing and they would reimburse my
  Mastercard.
  I really don't want to do that as I can see that with a simple, but perhaps,
  expensive modifications, the tool would work beautifully.
  The modification would be to drive a reamer through the plate and down
  through the centre of the stem that I mentioned above, but how much would
  such a modification cost? Murray will come around and take a look at it and
  let me know. It shouldn't cost too much, but such a modification should
  never had been necessary.
  I imagine that the tool is manufactured in China, and for the life of me, I
  cannot fathom why such a glaring fault was not picked up by quality control!

  Jewel

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Recall: Gerber Legendary Blades: Machetes Due to Laceration Hazard

2010-03-10 Thread Jewel
Maybe they should come with a warning!  This device has been known to cut!

  Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Max Robinson m...@maxsmusicplace.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 5:56 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Recall: Gerber Legendary Blades: Machetes Due to 
Laceration Hazard


You can get cut when using a sharp knife.  What a revelation.  What's next,
a recall of kitchen ranges because you can get burned while using them?

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

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- Original Message - 
From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press braill...@hawaii.rr.com
To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2010 9:43 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Recall: Gerber Legendary Blades: Machetes Due to
Laceration Hazard


 Gerber Legendary Blades Recalls Machetes Due to Laceration Hazard

 WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in
 cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary
 recall of the following
 consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products
 immediately unless otherwise instructed.

 Name of Product: Gerber(r) Gator(r) Machete and Gator(r) Machete Jr.

 Units: About 149,000 Gator Machetes and 6,000 Gator Machetes Jr.

 Importer: Gerber Legendary Blades, of Portland, Ore., a division of
 Fiskars Brands Inc., of Madison, Wis.

 Hazard: The saw side of the machete can stick in wood during use, and
 if the user's hand slips off the handle and slides forward across the
 machete blade,
 this poses a laceration hazard.

 Incidents/Injuries: Gerber has received five reports of individuals
 cutting themselves while using the Gator Machete, all of whom
 required stitches. Gerber has received no reports of injuries
 associated with use of the Gator Machete Jr.

 Description: This recall involves the Gerber Gator Machete and Gator
 Machete Jr. with the original handle (see picture below). The Gator
 Machete is approximately 25 1/2 long and the Machete Jr. is
 approximately 18 3/4 long. The blade is marked with the Gerber
 trademark. The Gator Machete and Machete Jr. with a modified handle
 (an extended hand guard) are not included in this recall (see picture
 in recall announcement). Consumers should visually inspect their
 machete to determine if it is included in this recall.

 Sold at: Retail stores nationwide, including The Sportsman's Guide,
 Dick's Sporting Goods and Bass Pro Shops/American Rod  Gun, and
 through on-line stores from March 2007 through February 2010 for
 between $16 and $25.

 Manufactured in: China

 Remedy: Consumers should stop using the recalled machetes immediately
 and contact Gerber to receive instructions on how to return the
 machete for a free replacement machete.

 Consumer Contact: For more information, contact Gerber Legendary
 Blades toll-free at (877) 314-9130 between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. PT,
 Monday through Friday,
 or visit the firm's Web site at
 www.gerbergear.com

 To see this recall on CPSC's web site, including pictures of the
 recalled product, please go to:
 http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml10/10157.html
 Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.



 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valves

2010-03-08 Thread Jewel
Here in New Zealand, the road toby [[curb shut-off valve] is easy to get at and 
can be turned off by 
the householder.

  Jewel C
- Original Message - 
From: Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2010 6:49 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valves


Hi Dan, I know where the curb shutoff is, but I understand a special tool is 
required to turn off 
the water. What I can't recall is how to repack the valve without having the 
water off. My hope is 
to fix this once and for all so I can reduce the massive hole in the wall where 
the meter and valves 
are. This sucker is about 3 or so feet across and 2 feet high. My wife wants 
the hole reduced to 
something more reasonable so replacing the valves may result in a plumber 
coming in either way. Well 
I think they should never allow gate valves to be installed. grin

thanks,
On Mar 8, 2010, at 7:54 AM, Dan Rossi wrote:

 Scott,

 I had the same issue, where my main shut-off was leaking slightly. I
 tried to get it changed, but ended up not being able to. I wasn't going
 to touch it myself, an 80 year old valve and pipe, no way. So I got a
 plumber. Unfortunately, the plumber was unable to get the curb box valve
 shut off. We compromised and shut-off the main valve, put a better
 shut-off valve inside of the old one, then opened the old valve and
 tightened it up and packed it so that it wouldn't leak, and never has to
 be touched again.

 You can save yourself some aggravation if you find the curb box yourself.
 It took me a couple of days of looking and probing. Somehow, the water
 company was able to shut it off, but the plumber who showed up later
 couldn't.

 -- 
 Blue skies.
 Dan Rossi
 Carnegie Mellon University.
 E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
 Tel: (412) 268-9081




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sex Screws - Was: Pop Rivets Question

2010-02-17 Thread Jewel
As Max has, on occasion, pointed out, we are but two countries separated by a 
common language, so I 
don't know if this has struck anyone else as being particularly erotic:   the 
words sex and screw 
being coupled together.

Jewel

- Original Message - 
From: Bill Gallik billgal...@centurytel.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 3:05 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sex Screws - Was: Pop Rivets Question


What you're referring to here are called Sex Screws.  I know, sounds pretty 
kinky; but remember 
that in plumbing you have ballcocks, nipples, male and femail union pieces; 
maybe electricity and 
wiring isn't quite so suggestive but I'm sure that trade likewise has its' own 
prurient terminology. 
Actually, I had bought a box of sex screws from a small hardware store in 
Wheaton (Illinois) and 
didn't know what to call them.  I called down there and spoke with the woman 
manager that I had 
known when I lived there (quite a very charming gal to say the least) and 
clumsily and 
apologetically tried to explain what type of fasteners I was looking for and 
wanting to know what to 
call them.

She plainly answered, Sex screws. And then giggled, knowing my consternation 
and embarrassment.

Holland's Person, Bill
- Be careful about reading health books. You may die of a misprint.
- US Humorist, Mark Twain (1835 - 1910)
  - Original Message - 
  From: Spiro
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2010 2:45 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Pop Rivets Question



  are these those things that look like two tophats with one thinner than
  the other? The thinner threaded tube fits into the thicker threaded tube
  and they join flush? What tightens them, and what are the strengths and
  weaknesses.
  I have a rolling backpack to fix for my kid and that might be just
  perfect; unless you have to buy a gun for them too.

  On Tue, 16 Feb 2010, Art Rizzino wrote:


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] lime (not the one you use for drinks)

2010-02-07 Thread Jewel
Shayne!  Lime is generally considered to be an agricultural soil conditioner, 
so any garden or farm 
supply outlet will have it.  Lime was also used as a paint long ago.  You will 
have heard of 
buildings being whitewashed or, :inside:  distempered.  These were both just 
mixtures of water and 
lime.

 Jewel



- Original Message - 
From: Shane Hecker shanehec...@gmail.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 4:36 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] lime (not the one you use for drinks)


Was wondering what lime looks like. Someone told me it has the texture of
concrete and it's used on roads to mark lanes. And if someone wanted to get
it, where would they get it from? I've also heard it gets nasty when mixed
with water (burn baby burn).

Shane





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] cutting an angle

2010-01-17 Thread Jewel
Kevin!  This is what I do.
I have two pieces of angle aluminium 10 inches long by 2 and a quarter wide.
When I have established where I want to cut the timber, I clamp the two 
aluminium guides having the 
high side of the guides on either side of the cut mark, leaving just the 
thickness of the saw blade 
plus room for it to move back and forth.

   Jewel

- Original Message - 
From: Kevin Doucet contac...@kevindoucet.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 3:28 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cutting an angle


Oh, sorry, I did not ask my question right.

After I set the angle with the bevel  square, I
can score the wood so I can feel the line to cut
on but what would I use as a guide with only a
hand saw or a circle saw? This might not should
be giving me such trouble but for some reason it is.




Re: [BlindHandyMan] Invisible Fencing for Dogs

2010-01-15 Thread Jewel
Before I comment on the post re invisible fencing, let me fill you in with what 
has been, or more 
accurately, * not been happening.
My computer's sound card chose Dec23rd to join other deceased sound cards in 
the great sound card 
rubbish tip in the sky.  It could scarcely have picked a more inconvenient time 
to kick the bucket. 
What with the Christmas and New Year shutdowns, and given that my computer 
technicians could never 
mount a challenge to Speedy Gonzales, I have been computerless until today.
Now for my comments on invisible fencing.  It may keep your own dog off the 
street, but it does not 
prevent wandering dogs from coming off it and invading your dog's territory.
Personally, for this reason if no other, I wouldn't rely on one.

   Jewel

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joy Cyr
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 4:29 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Invisible Fencing for Dogs



Good day fellow listers,
You have been so very helpful in the past I am hoping you may be able to
share your knowledge with me again. Has anyone ever used or installed (or
preferably Both) one of these fences? I know the basics of how one functions
but I don't know anyone who has one. Absolutely any advice, personal
experiences or suggestions about what I ought to be looking for or keeping
in mind would be appreciated.

Thank you for any and all replies,
Yours sincerely,
Joy

Please say thank you to Canada's soldiers! Express your appreciation
directly to the men and women serving overseas. Contribute to their comfort
by sending them a little touch of handmade warmth from home.
To find out how you can help, please visit www.operationtoastytoes.ca. Let's
show our troops we care!

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!

2009-12-03 Thread Jewel
Tom!  I train my own guides and have done so since 1960.  My new bloke is a 
mastiff so that will 
give you some idea how big he is.
I cast my mind back 11 years to when Guido who I retired last weekend was the 
same age as Buddy is 
now:  13 and a half months:  and I reckon that Buddy is even better.  He is 
going to be, given a bit 
more experience and age, a  fantastic guide.
This struggle I am having with his helping himself to things on the kitchen 
counter or on the table 
is render that much more of a battle because I am having to prove that I am 
smarter than he is.  I 
am * almost sure that I am, but he is not going to be defeated without very 
definite proof of that, 
and, to date,  I have not presented that proof!

 Jewel

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!


Jewel,
Yeah considering the size of some of the guide dogs I've seen recently I'm
not surprised about Buddy's reach.

One advantage, i think, of the babby monitor idea is that
the correction comes from you, the boss lady, where corrections should
come from, not from some unknown noise maker.  but the system made for pets
might be good if it's not too expensive.

Tom Fowle





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!

2009-12-03 Thread Jewel
On the face of it, the shock collar sounds great, but many years ago, I had a 
dog that I used to use 
an electronic shock collar on to combat her awful barking while in her run.
She would start to bark, but when I went outside to correct her, before I had a 
chance to open my 
mouth, she would close her's:  the upshot being that if I corrected Tam then, I 
was, virtually, 
correcting her for being quiet.
I got an electric shock collar and with it came a dummy collar and the 
instructions were that when 
the electronic collar was on the charger, the dog should wear the dummy.
Now, I don't know how Tam distinguished between the genuine and dummy collars, 
but believe me, she 
could.
When she had the shock collar on, blessed silence reigned, but when wearing the 
dummy, the noise 
recommenced.
I finally had her debarked.  She could still bark, but now all of those 
maddening high frequencies 
had been cancelled out, so life was happier for all of us, Tam, myself and 
everyone within a radius 
of half a mile.

   Jewel Original Message - 
From: Tom Hodges tomhod...@fuse.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 10:28 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!


Now that's the best idea I've heard yet.  Bravo.



Tom Hodges.



Newport, Kentucky



From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Michael baldwin
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 4:16 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!





I would check with a pet store, not sure if you have a Pet smart, or pet Co,
but they have a device that you put in the middle of the table, and set the
diameter, lets say 4 foot, and the dog wears a collar and if the dog gets
close, it first beeps, if the dog persists, then they get a shock.
Michael


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!

2009-12-03 Thread Jewel
I understand that a haunch of reindeer makes  quite an acceptible alternative 
to the boring 
Christmas turkey!

 Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: jim cheet...@frontiernet.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!


no bob we have well behaved reign deer here.
if they are not behaved then maybe Santa won't take them along and they all 
want to go
jim


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[BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!

2009-12-02 Thread Jewel
I know that we have some clever geeks on the list, so I wondered if one of 
those might be willing to 
design, and build,  a little something that I want and will now describe.
My new guide dog, Buddy, is proving to be just a tad too smart when it comes to 
swiping things off 
the kitchen bench and dining room table.
Now, I know that, if I were to put everything away, there would be nothing for 
him to swipe, but it 
is * MY bench and * MY dining table, so if I want to leave things on them, like 
my meal while I go 
to the front door to speak to someone, I should be able to.
I have tried various aversive techniques that have worked for a couple of bays, 
but then he will 
give it another try, and when he finds that the road leading to the desired 
object is clear of rat 
traps etc etc, he is in like a ferret up a pants' leg.
What I visualize is a battery-operated device consisting of a box sort of thing 
that has, either, a 
button or  lever on the top that will be depressed when I place something on 
it, and when the 
something is knocked off and the button/lever released, a loud alarm:  one with 
the decibel strength 
of, for instance,  a smoke alarm: will be triggered.
I will then charge in and give the offender a right royal rollicking.
If I keep this up for long enough: six months should suffice!  Buddy WILL give 
up his counter 
surfing habits.

ANY  TAKERS?

Jewel




Re: [BlindHandyMan] Thanks much.

2009-12-02 Thread Jewel
All that's missing is a baby!

Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu
To: Blind Handyman List BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Cc: these-ha...@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 12:12 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Thanks much.


I just want to say thanks to David for posting my little announcement.
Sofia is doing great, and has already won my heart over.  Since she isn't
asking any questions about how to build anything yet, you can send any
comments directly to me d...@andrew.cmu.edu, rather than to the list.

BTW, Sofia is spelled the Italian way, S,o,f,i,a.  And my last name is
actually spelled R,o,s,s,i.  Thanks to all those who have already
commented.

To keep it on track a little, the nursery is about 99% done.  The closet
doors are on, the furniture is in, the rug is on the floor.  Just a couple
of more bits and pieces that don't amount to much.

Take care folks.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!

2009-12-02 Thread Jewel
Tom!  I will print these instructions out and carry them with me so I can show 
them to someone who 
has the requisite skills to put the gizmo together.
- Original Message - 
From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!


Hi Jewel,
I've noticed recently trained guide dogs I've seen are much more prone to such
inappropriate behavior than they used to be.  I'll not subject you and the list
to my somewhat prejudiced opinions about why GRIN

The device is electrically simple, and I bet you can find the parts
at a radio shack if you have those available.

All you need is a battery, probably 9 volt with connector, a 'normally closed
switch of the push button type, and the noise maker.

I bet shlock sells a lout alarm type noise maker all in one just
what you need, I'll get my wife to look some time in a couple days and see if
we can give you a number.

Most push button switches have 3 terminals, the swinger and normally closed
and normally open contacts.

You just wire a loop with the battery, it's negative terminal going
to the negative terminal of the alarm, the positive battery terminal goes
to the swinger of the switch, and the normally closed  contact
of the switch goes to the positive terminal of the alarm.
that means the thing is not screaming till you release the button.
The trick is packaging it the way you like.

You could even make a box with a hinged top arranges so that when the top
has no weight on it, the switch is not pressed, but when the top is pressed
down by more weight it presses the switch nd opens the contact
the contact to the alarm.

If you can build it your self, you're more likely to get what you want
 physically than if I for example built you one, but I could do so if nobody
closer offers.

You don't have to solder wires, small wire nuts' should do the job, just strip
wires, twist together and maybe add a bit of tape.

Rest is obtaining the box, parts and deciding how to mount stuff.

does this help any?

tom Fowle





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Motion Alarm or Chime w/2 Remotes Customer Visitor Chimes pleasant alert ding-dong chime melody when customer enters.

2009-12-02 Thread Jewel
Sounds just the ticket Lenny, but I am afraid that the $6 shipping might get it 
to the pacific coast 
of the US, but the intervening many thousands of miles  of big wavy would be a 
killer.
I will get in touch with my handy brother and give him Tom's directions and I 
am sure that Evan will 
be able to knock something together.

Jewel

- Original Message - 
From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net
To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 5:50 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Motion Alarm or Chime w/2 Remotes Customer Visitor 
Chimes pleasant alert 
ding-dong chime melody when customer enters.


Jewel, This is not the unit that I purchased but I do think I will purchase
this one to replace mine. Mine eats 9v batteries. I think if you were to
place on the end of the table it might work for you as Clifford suggested.
On the one that I have I had to place tape over most of the sensor to cut
down the area it monitored It did have a 120 degree coverage as does this
unit, but I have it down to about ten degrees.  It is regular $19.98 onsale
for $11.99. with about $6 shipping
http://www.preventsecurity.com/productdetails.asp?c=26sub=-1p=2362

---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question

2009-11-17 Thread Jewel
Shop clerk to Tom:  Do you want a black eye?  Tom to clerk:  If I had wanted 
one, I would have 
asked for it!
Clerk to Tom:  Believe me:  Buddy:  You did ask for one,so I will give you 
one, and it won't cost 
you a cent, although it may end up costing me several but it will be worth it!

  Jewel

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Hodges tomhod...@fuse.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 2:35 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question


What really torques my jaws at Home Depot is whenever I ask a clerk for help
finding something, they want to know what I'm using it for.  For instance,
I've ask them where I can find the number 8, one inch long, flat head, brass
wood screws.  Invariably they will say, what are you using them for?  My
canned answer is always, What difference is it to you what I'm using them
for?  I told you specifically what I wanted, I didn't ask you for your
opinion on whether I should buy them, or use something else instead.



I'm not saying this has anything to do with the fact that I'm carrying a
white cane or not.  I think it's a stupid question regardless.



Can you imagine asking for a three foot long black iron pipe and they ask
you where you intend to put it?  At that point, my wife would probably grab
me and say, don't say itTom!  I know what you want to say Tom, but please
don't say it.



Anyway, that's my story.  If my wife didn't go to Home Depot with me, I
would probably come home with a black eye.



Regards, Tom Hodges






Re: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question

2009-11-17 Thread Jewel
Matt!  With an order like that, I am not surprised that the staff were 
friendly!

   Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Matt mattmull...@suddenlink.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question


F Y I...
The people at lows were quite friendly and helpful to me today.  I came back 
with 4 sheets of 
plywood, 8 by 4 I think it is, and about 12 96 8 foot 2 by fours.  Also picked 
up a couple more 
clamps, a nice ratchiting screw driver set with many other pieces, such as 
utility knife, a 
replacement for the flair tool I chopped up and a couple of fire extinguishers.
Man that place can be fun!

Matt




Re: RE: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question

2009-11-17 Thread Jewel
* I am amazed at what some of our blind handypeople do, so it is scarcely 
surprising that sighted 
strangers should be even more so!

 Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: john schwery jschw...@embarqmail.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 12:07 PM
Subject: RE: RE: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question


And, I think, some of those people are just
curious, and, with a blind person asking, that
peaks their curiosity more.  Some of those store
people think it is great that I would even try
building something.  I know, they shouldn't be
amazed at what we do, but, I think talking with
them helps educate them a little bit.




Re: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question

2009-11-16 Thread Jewel
Tom!  I am surprised that you haven't come across Clifford's practice  of 
giving his wife an ordinal 
numeral.
The charming lady is, I understand,  his first and only wife to this stage, and 
as their marriage is 
a longstanding event in the scheme of life, it is, on the cards, that she will 
be his last, but he 
refers to her as his * first wife, just to keep her in line by reminding her 
that where there is a * 
first, there might well be a * second, if she pushes her luck too far!

 Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Tom Hodges tomhod...@fuse.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 2:42 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question


I am a bit confused about your comment about doing something in November
with your first wife.  The month of November is just half over and you have
a second wife in less than one month?

Just curious.



From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of clifford
Sent: Sunday, November 15, 2009 9:52 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question





Dear List members:
I was in a chat room on a site for blind folks and their friends, and the
subject turned to the events of the day. My first wife and I engaged in some
spring cleaning in November, and we can not figure out whether we are behind
several months, or ahead several months. In any event, I was commenting
about my collection of screw-drivers, which has gotten out of control, and I
am telling all of my friends and family that this Christmas need not involve
screw-drivers.
One of the participants on the site asked me, what would a blind person do
with a screw-driver. I explained that I had disassembled a chair today and
reassembled the good parts from two chairs to make one good one. This
gentleman apparently has not been exposed to handyman activities at all.
While I don't perform as many tasks as I did as a younger man, I am
astounded at the lack of opportunity some blind folks have. Their parents,
teachers, and friends have protected them too much, in my country boy's
opinion.

Yours Truly,

Clifford Wilson

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Nursery floor.

2009-11-10 Thread Jewel
Dan!  With the amount of work you still want to complete to make the baby's 
palace perfect, you had 
better tell Teresa to keep off the Harley or the roller coaster for the next 
few days, or 
preferebly, weeks!

  Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu
To: Blind Handyman List BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 4:59 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Nursery floor.


I donned filthy clothes and respirator yet again last night, and entered
the toxic waist land, soon to be my  daughters nursery.  I sliced up the
carpeting, rolled it, tied it, and stuffed it into contractor bags, along
with the padding.  I had to crawl around on the floor for quite a while
trying to remove the hundreds of staples they had used to tack down the
padding.  Also, I had to remove that lovely tack strip around the edges of
the room.  Man is that stuff nasty to handle.  Kind of like trying to pick
up a porcupine.

I then tried shop vacking up the room, but after a long time, I realized
it just wasn't worth it.  The exhaust from the vac was blowing around the
dust and although I was sucking up some, I was putting more in the air.
So, I sealed up the room, closing windows and closing the door.
Hopefully, the dust will settle out in the quiet air, and I will go in
tonight and wet mop floor, walls, and ceiling.  I think that will work
better to remove all the dirt and dust.

The hard wood floor is in pretty bad shape, and I am now considering
laying a new hard wood floor over the old.  It is pretty flat, not like
the floor I found in my living room a couple of years ago.  The room is
quite rectangular, with virtually no cut-outs.  It is rather small, a bit
over 8 by 11.  I don't think I will require an underlayment.  I am trying
to convince myself that I can do the whole thing, start to finish, in
three days.  Now I just have to convince Teresa of the same.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Stripping paint.

2009-11-09 Thread Jewel
Dan!  be assured my friend that answering the whims and wishes of, and being 
whipped into pathetic 
subjugation by your new daughter will make all the preparations for her arrival 
seem but the merest 
light chores.

Jewel


- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu
To: Blind Handyman List BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 4:46 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Stripping paint.


So, as I mentioned in an earlier post, I decided to rip down the canvas
wall paper covering, taking with it some 80 years of paint, including lots
of lead based paints.  I sealed off the nursery, taping the door closed,
had a big box fan exhausting out one window with the other window cracked
open.  I had my respirator on, and a jump suit.  I pealed all the paper
off the walls and ceiling in pretty short order.  I bagged it and sealed
the bags.  Then I shop vacked the hell out of the room with a heppa filter
on the vac.

All went quite well.  Unfortunately, Teresa and I made a monumentally
stupid decision after that.  Being good parents to be, we discussed the
fact that due to past water damage, the paint on the window sills was
chipping and pealing so we should probably strip that paint off and
repaint them.  What a fucking nightmare.  I spent about 20 hours over the
weekend in a respirator, painting stripper on the trim and scraping it
off.  The stripper worked well on the first umteen layers of paint, it
literally bubbled right off.  After a second application of stripper, I
was still fighting with the last couple of layers of paint.  I finally
gave up and just scraped it all down so that there was no loose material.

My hands are scraped and sore from smashing them on corners, edges,
radiators, and exposure to harsh chemicals.  My back and shoulders are
killing me from hours on the floor scraping the damn baseboards.

I attempted making the pitch of just ripping out the trim and putting new
stuff in, but that didn't fly.  It would have been so much easier though.

Anyway, it is done, sort of, and now I have to deal with patching up the
walls a bit, and finishing the trim work on the closet.

SHEESH!

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cleaning our Upstairs Apartment!

2009-11-05 Thread Jewel
Claudia!  Here, on the New Zealand market, we have a product called sugar 
soap.  If it is 
available in the States, it is just the job for the job!
For all I know, sugar soap may just be a more evocative name for TSP.

Jewel

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Claudia
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 2:11 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cleaning our Upstairs Apartment!





Hi All,

Our upstairs apartment has been vacant, for quite some time now, and we're
trying to get it ready for possible tenants.
The walls feel quite greasy, as well as the countertops, stove,
refrigerator, etc.
What product could we use up there to do some intense cleaning, one that
won't create fumes?
Thanks.

Claudia
MSN: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net mailto:cdelreal1973%40sbcglobal.net

Skype: claudiadr2009

Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] removing rust

2009-11-05 Thread Jewel
Clifford!  NAVAL  JELLY!  Several uses for a product with that name springs to 
mind.  One has to be 
careful to examine the spelling, and what of those poor souls to whom spelling 
is a mysterious 
subject never to be plumbed?  If they should get their hands on it, where is it 
going to be spread? 
My skin crawls at the very thought!

   Jewel

- Original Message - 
From: clifford cliff...@tds.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 06, 2009 3:02 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] removing rust


Dear List Members:
Back when I was tackling more handyman type jobs, I used a product called, 
Naval Jelly, for 
removing rust.  It may no longer be on the market.

Yours Truly,

Clifford Wilson

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] I'm a mudder.

2009-11-04 Thread Jewel
For one demented moment Dan, I thought that you said that you were a * mother!

   Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu
To: Blind Handyman List BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 9:03 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] I'm a mudder.


Last evening, I went into the nursery and with paper tape and mud,
attempted to seal the edges of the plaster where I had ripped down the
closet wall.  I know all of that stuff will be safely behind trim, but
thought that it would be better to try and seal up those ragged and raw
edges so that they don't forever sift dust out.

I didn't care one bit how my work looked since it was going to be behind
trim, so I just cut the tape to length, grabbed handfuls of mud and
slathered it all over the tape and wrapped it around the edges of the
broken plaster.  Not pretty, but I think it will do the trick.

Tonight I will attempt to frame in the hole and prepare it for trim and
doors.

Any suggestions on how to hold a 2X6 over my head while trying to screw or
nail it in?

I am using a 2X6 that is flush with the inside of the closet, so that it
will stick out from the outer wall by a couple of inches.  This will help
me to move the doors further out to make the closet artificially deeper.

the wall was originally built with the 2X6 studs on edge, so it is thinner
than a typical wall.  I am just going to reuse the 2X6 I cut out of the
wall as my header.  The only thing is, whatever trees they used to make
studs out of, were a lot heavier than todays studs.  SHEESH!  I don't know
when they started making dimensional lumber that half inch less but these
are 1.5 X 5.5 or a bit more, but not full 2 X 6.  And this house was built
in the 20s.

Later.


-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] A closet story.

2009-11-02 Thread Jewel
Tom!  a woman after my own heart.  You put into type my exact thoughts re the 
removal of the 
wardrobe [closet] in the kid's room!  What a spoil sport dad Dan is going to be!

   Jewel

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2009 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A closet story.


Oh jeez dan, you went and removed that ideal kid hiding place before the little
brat is even around.  So when you re do the room you better put in a nice
hiding  hole.

but of course all that led has to go.  Don't you all remember hiding in your
closet when things got really sticky? GRIN

Tom





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] A closet story.

2009-11-02 Thread Jewel
Do teenagers actually hang their clothes up?

Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2009 2:57 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A closet story.


Jewel Wrote:

 Tom!  a woman after my own heart.  You put into type my exact thoughts
 re the removal of the wardrobe [closet] in the kid's room!

Yeah, but she'll forgive me when she's a teenager and has lots of clothes
to hang up.

I'll see if I can't manage a nice hiding spot in the closets in the
basement once I get back to finishing it.


-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Basement floor project.

2009-10-20 Thread Jewel
With the time and effort you would save, your delayed project schedule would 
soon be up to speed 
again!

 Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2009 2:27 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Basement floor project.


Jewel,

I have a feeling my neighbors might also have a say in my building a winch
and log slide on the main stairs to our courtyard.  Most of them would
probably be up for it though.  Just as long as I could keep the kids off
of it.

Of course, by the time I built the damn thing all my other projects would
be way behind schedule.  *GRIN*


-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi 




Re: [BlindHandyMan] Basement floor project.

2009-10-19 Thread Jewel
Dan!  I would have thought that the project to proceed all others would have 
been a system for 
getting your heavy equipment and requirements from street level to your palace 
in the clouds.
Why you haven't put a winch up there and a log slide down to the street beggars 
me!

 Jewel 




Re: [BlindHandyMan] Why men collect scrap lumber

2009-09-25 Thread Jewel
Why * men collect scrap lumber?!  How gender stereotypical can you be?
I had a male tradesman here the other day, doing a bit of demolition work for 
me, and he blithely 
put timber aside telling me that it was * firewood!  Firewood be damned.  
Admittedly, one or two 
pieces were of that description, even to me, the queen of recyclers, but as for 
the rest, it will 
all, in due time, find itself fulfilling a new role.

Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Tom Vos vo...@iowatelecom.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 2:21 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Why men collect scrap lumber


I delight in being able to fix or fabricate something around the house by
digging into my collection of valuable stuff in the basement.  It's probably
a good thing I don't have a 40 by 80 foot storage building out back, or I'd
collect a lot more.
Whenever I manage to fix something by pulling just the right part out of my
supply, my daughter rolls her eyes and sighs, as if I'm a hopeless case or
something.
So she recently bought me a book, titled, Why Men Collect Scrap Wood.
Here's an excerpt.
WHY MEN SAY THEY SAVE SCRAP LUMBER

Men say they save Scrap Lumber because:

... . . you just never know when you need a hunk.

... . . they paid good money for it.

... . . it's just too good to throw away.

... . . there might be another Depression.

. a guy could use it to barter.

... . . it's too good to burn.

... . . how else would you fill up a garage.

. it doesn't cost anything.

. a guy can dream about building a cabin with it.

... . . they don't collect and save buttons, fabric, figurines, dolls, snow
villages, anniversary napkins, bread twisties, margarine tubs or Engelbert
Humperdinck concert ticket stubs.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Basement door project update.

2009-09-08 Thread Jewel
Dan!  When you and Teresa go shopping for toys for your daughter, I 
suggest that you ignore the Toys R Us store and head straight for the 
nearest home rennervation depot and get her a half-sized concrete mixer! 
She will be in heaven!

Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu
To: Blind Handyman List BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 7:18 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Basement door project update.


 About a week ago, I borrowed a cement mixer from Breeze, another Blind
 Handyman lister.  Turns out that his mixer is significantly heavier than
 the one I rented in the past.  However, it was much cheaper, only cost me
 a couple of magazine subscriptions for his kids fund raiser, and I get to
 keep it for more than a day.  However, it did take three of us to drag the
 damn thing up the steps.

 Well, I had finally gotten the hole finished, the paver base tamped, the
 sand screeded off nice and flat and level, and the first course of land
 scaping blocks laid nice and flat and level.

 Sooo, I took Friday off, and my brother, wanting to see what it might be
 like to actually work with his hands, came over to the house Friday
 morning.  Almost everything was ready and in place.  I pulled the 20 40
 pound bags of cement from the basement and lifted them up to my brother
 who then stacked them beside the cement mixer.

 After that was done, we fired up the mixer and I was dumping the bags and
 water into the mixer five at a time.  After it was mixed, we dumped the
 mixer, my brother shoveled it into the pit, and Teresa raked it out.
 While Rob was shoveling and Teresa raking, I would get the next load of
 cement mixing.

 After we had gone through all the cement, I helped Teresa float the cement
 off.  I had set up a screed board to angle the cement down toward the
 drain, and that worked very nicely.  We then kind of puddled the cement up
 around the edges so that water would flow toward the drain from any
 position on the slab.  All went well.  There was some extra cement, but I
 plugged a few holes around the yard and disappeared it reasonably well.

 On Saturday and Sunday, I managed to lay three courses of blocks and back
 fill behind the courses with gravel.  I don't have to cut many blocks but
 have found it pretty easy, especially since a buddy at work loaned me his
 diamond blade for my circ saw.

 There is one problem corner where I have to cut the blocks in strange
 ways, and there was no way to anchor the first block, nor the blocks that
 sit above it, so I have been mortaring them to the house to keep them from
 shifting.

 the pin system works pretty well for the rest of the blocks, but it can be
 frustrating to scrape the gravel from the slots before laying the next
 course.  Then trying to get them to line up so that the pins slide home is
 usually easy, but occasionally tedious.

 The damn thing is sucking up gravel faster than my back can recover from
 hauling 60 pound bags up the steps.  I probably need another 20 bags
 before I am done.

 I placed sonno tubes at the ends of the side walls in preparation for
 anchoring posts for railings.  I found a very cool device for helping with
 this.  It is a 30 inch long spike with a 4X4 box on top.  I will sink the
 spike into the cement in the middle of the sonno tube, then after it is
 set, I can just drop the 4X4 railing post into the box and bolt it in
 place.

 I should have the wall complete by the end of the weekend, but it will
 take another week or two before I get the railings in place, and the two
 wooden steps built and installed in the pit.

 -- 
 Blue skies.
 Dan Rossi
 Carnegie Mellon University.
 E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
 Tel: (412) 268-9081


 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Quick patio project update

2009-08-31 Thread Jewel
Dale!  you said that you have taken the week off work!  What do you call 
what your are doing?  relaxation?

   Jewel 




Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sex Discrimination

2009-08-27 Thread Jewel
Willamina might be an even better disguise.

   Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Bill Gallik billgal...@centurytel.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sex Discrimination


 Oh my, shall I subscribe as Billie Gallik?
 ---*---*---*---*---*---*---
 Holland's Person, Bill
 E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net
 - Anonymous (from my source of goofy stuff)
 - Eggs and Bacon for Breakfast
 - An entire day commitment for a Hen.
 - A Lifetime Commitment for a Hog



 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Mailbox Post

2009-08-27 Thread Jewel
In New Zealand, the urban post people are very choosy, andpernickety about 
where they deliver the mail, but the drivers who service the rual areas are 
very good.  When the farmer/rual dweller has mail to send, a flag is raised 
and the van driver collects and delivers it to the bbase post office.

Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2009 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Mailbox Post


 Where I live, in unincorporated Alameda county CA. mail is delivered to a 
 slot
 in the wall by my front door.  Very good.  However sending mail
 is getting hard. Street side post boxes are nearly gone, and the post 
 office
 is a mile and a half away.  I most often just take things to work where we
 have a nice mail room and a very helpfull young lady who will stick
 stuff in the outgoing for us.

 The post office claims you can leave outgoing mail clipped to the slot 
 cover,
 but you may as well hand it to the local gang member  as leave it out 
 side.

 Speaking of rural mail boxes though, somewhere here we have a gizmo
 with a small transmitter that you put in the far off
 mail box.  There is a receiver you put where you can hear it.  Somehow, 
 and
 it may be light activated, when the mail box is opened, the receiver 
 beeps.

 Never seemed to work very reliably when informally tested here in the lab.


 Tom Fowle



 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Posts and concrete.

2009-08-27 Thread Jewel
I use the cement mix where you just pour it into the hole.  It says on the 
instructions on the bags * here that you put the water in first and then 
pour the cement and agregate mix in.  When you put the water in the hole, 
you pour it down the * sides of the hole so that they are wet.
I always ram the cement, though I don't think that that is required.  It 
just makes me feel that the compacted cement will be stronger.
The concrete will set in a quarter to half an hour.

   Jewel

- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2009 2:16 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Posts and concrete.


 Dale,

 Around here it is pretty standard to just stand a 4X4 up in the hole,
 dump in the dry cement and then pour water on it.  As a matter of fact,
 those are the instructions on some bags of ready mix.  I didn't believe it
 until Teresa read it to me, and I checked the quikcrete web site to
 confirm.

 That's not how I did my deck posts though.  I mixed the concrete first
 then poured full footers and sunk a J bolt in the top and bolted on a post
 bracket.

 I don't think the guy who did the previous deck really cared much.  There
 wasn't much concrete in the holes.  It was a ground level deck and a lot
 of the joists were sitting on the ground anyway.



 -- 
 Blue skies.
 Dan Rossi
 Carnegie Mellon University.
 E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
 Tel: (412) 268-9081


 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sex Discrimination

2009-08-26 Thread Jewel
Bill!  try resubscribing, and this time, put on the stilletos, wear your 
frilliest skirt and don't forget the bare midriff!

   Jewel

- Original Message - 
From: David Ferrin d...@jaws-users.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 11:39 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Sex Discrimination


 You'll have to speak with Don Shaw as he is the owner of that particular
 list if memory serves.

 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Bill Gallik
 Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 7:36 PM
 To: Blind Handy Man
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sex Discrimination

 O.K. I want to know why when I try to subscribe to Blind Handy Girls
 several months ago I was refused because I am a man? Yet we have women on
 the Blind Handyman list?  This ain't right!  If the Gander ain't good
 enough to be on the Goose's list then the Geese should be able to get on 
 the
 Ganders' list neither!;-)
 ---*---*---*---*---*---*---
 Holland's Person, Bill
 E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net
 - Anonymous (from my source of goofy stuff)
 - Eggs and Bacon for Breakfast
 - An entire day commitment for a Hen.
 - A Lifetime Commitment for a Hog




 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Score one for D I Y

2009-08-26 Thread Jewel
Dan!  I guess that you have learned, may I say at long last that a mix of 
hands, live wires and water do not good companions make!

Jewel- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu
To: Blind Handyman List BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 1:38 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Score one for D I Y


 Chalk up another point for a do it yourself repair.

 Saturday morning Teresa and I did our biweekly strip trip, where we go to
 an area of Pittsburgh called the strip district.  This isn't the cheap,
 sleezy bar district, (we do that on alternate Friday nights), this is the
 area where all the ethnic food markets are.  We have breakfast at an
 Italian cafe, shop in Italian, Greek, Indian, and Korean grocery stores,
 then have lunch at a Mexican taco stand.

 Anyway, we get home, drop off the groceries, and are preparing to head
 back out to pick up some more gravel at Lowes.  I decide to grab a glass
 of water before leaving and go back into the kitchen.  I notice a sound.
 A sound like running water.  I step over to the basement door, dread
 filling my heart.  I open the door and sure enough, I hear the washing
 machine filling.  Normally, this wouldn't induce any kind of panic in me,
 however, I knew that Teresa had thrown a load of laundry in before we left
 the house at 9:00 and it was now after noon.  The washer should not have
 still been running.

 I ran down the stairs and sure enough, the washer was over flowing and
 water was running down the floor to the drain.  I pushed the knob in and
 out expecting the water to stop, thinking that maybe the timer thing had
 jammed.  No dice.  So I shut the water off at the inlet.  I popped the top
 of the washer up and started feeling around inside to see what I could
 see.  Just around the time that I thought I should unplug the washer, my
 hand came in contact with a lovely set of live wires.  Lit me up pretty
 good too.

 Sooo, I unplugged the damn thing and began investigating some more.  I
 eventually settled on the thought that the solenoid that controls the cold
 water had failed open.  I removed the pack that contained the two
 solenoids and applied some percussive maintenance.  I could blow air
 through the cold water valve but not the hot side.  I tried to disassemble
 it, but the pack was pretty much sealed.

 Teresa got some parts numbers off of it, did some searching on line and
 ordered the $24 part with six bucks shipping.  It arrived Tuesday evening
 and after a bit of screwing around because the mounting bracket was a bit
 different, and the stupid cheap, plastic threads on the hose connection
 kept cross threading, I finally got it put together and we ran a wash
 through and all was well.

 When we started, Teresa was convinced we were going to have to get a brand
 new washer.  Thirty bucks later, we no longer needed a new washer.  Well,
 we kind of do want a new one, but we don't have to run out in a panic and
 buy one without research or benefit of waiting for a sale.

 Score one for D I Y.

 -- 
 Blue skies.
 Dan Rossi
 Carnegie Mellon University.
 E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
 Tel: (412) 268-9081


 

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 List Members At The Following address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Mailbox Post

2009-08-26 Thread Jewel
One of our handypersons was sick and tired of his mailbox being knocked down 
by the snowplow, so I think what he did was to concrete in a steel pipe of 
fairly respectable  diameter 4 inch?  and fill the pipe with concrete as 
well.
The next time it was attacked by the plough, it stood unscarred while the 
plough lost its blade, or had it bent and buckled anyway!

 Jewel

 Original Message - 
From: Edward Przybylek przy5...@rochester.rr.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 2:07 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Mailbox Post


 Hi all,



 For the fourth time since I've been living in this house, some dirty 
 bastard
 has run into and broken the post under my mailbox.  The post was a 4-by-4
 piece of pressure treated that was buried about 3 feet in the ground.  The
 first time was forgivable; the second time was irritating; the third time
 was really agrivating; the fourth time, well, that's personal.  It appears
 that a good sturdy wooden post just isn't up to the likes of what drives
 through the neighborhood.  I doubt a wooden post does a great deal of 
 damage
 to a car's bumper.  It's time to get serious about this matter.  This time
 it's going to be a hefty metal post of some sort.  One, that next time,
 won't be the only thing left with damage.  Does anyone have any 
 suggestions
 as to the type of metal post I should use?  Do steel posts hold up for a
 reasonably long time once they're cemented in the ground?  Is there 
 anything
 better?  Is there anything that can be done to prepare a metal post that
 will extend it's life in the ground?  Also, has anyone ever used an 
 electric
 jackhammer?  Do they work reasonably well?  Are they tough to use?  Before
 putting a new post in the ground, the old concrete is going to have to be
 broken up and removed to get ready for a new post.  I'm hoping to do this
 with an electric jackhammer.  Lots of questions, I know.  Any help is
 greatly appreciated.



 Thanks,

 Ed Przybylek





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Handy Tip/How To Keep Flies Away

2009-08-20 Thread Jewel
I guess the flies reckon that if the joint can only afford pennies in the 
bag, the eating is likely to be way below a fly's backside.

 Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Donnie Parrett deparr...@prtcnet.org
Cc: Kentucky-ACB kentucky-...@acb.org
Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 4:38 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Handy Tip/How To Keep Flies Away


I received this email today and I have heard people talk about this before. 
Apparently, it really
 works.  It's worth a try.

 We went with some out of town friends to Sweety Pies on Sunday for 
 breakfast, and we sat in the
 enclosed patio section beside the house. We happened to
 notice a couple of zip lock baggies pinned to a post and a wall. The bags 
 were half filled with
 water, each contained 4 pennies, and they were zipped shut.
 Naturally we were curious! Ms Sweety told us that these baggies kept the 
 flies away! So naturally we
 were even more curious! We actually watched some flies
 come in the open window, stand around on the window sill, and then fly out 
 again. And there were no
 flies in the eating area! This morning I checked this
 out on Google. Below are comments on this fly control idea. I'm now a 
 believer! More comments not
 included here were about pet dogs and fly problems.

 Zip-lock water bags
 Sue says:

 Many people swear that a zip-lock bag filled half-way with water and 
 attached over entry-ways will
 repel flies. No one yet knows how or why it works, but
 there is speculation that it has something to do with the way the moving 
 water refracts light. If
 you have tried this please use the comments form at the
 bottom of the page to share your results with the rest of us.

 ann Says:

 October 5th, 2008 at 5:51 pm

 I did tried the ziplock bag and pennies this weekend. I have a horse 
 trailer with full LQ. The flys
 were very bad this weekend while I was camping. I put
 the baggie with pennies above the door of the LQ. NOT ONE FLY came in the 
 trailer. The horse trailer
 part had many. Not sure why it works but it does!!!

 Danielle Martin Says:

 September 20th, 2008 at 8:43 pm

 Fill a ziplock bag with water and 5 or 6 pennies and hang it in the 
 problem area. In my case it was
 a particular window in my home. It had a slight but
 significant passage way for insects.Every since I have done that, it has 
 kept flies and wasps away.
 Some say, that wasps and flies mistake the bag for
 some sort of other insect nest and are threatened by this.

 maggie Says:

 June 7th, 2009 at 11:40 am

 I swear by the plastic bag of water trick I have them on side porch ( our 
 house entry) and all
 around the basement door. We saw these in Northeast Mo at
 an Amish grocery store  have used them since. They say it works because a 
 fly sees a reflection 
 won't come around.

 Just DJ Says:

 May 16th, 2009 at 7:25 pm

 Regarding the science behind zip log bags of water? My research found that 
 each of the millions of
 molecules of water presents its own prism effect and
 given that flies have a lot of eyes, to them it's like a zillion disco 
 balls reflecting light,
 colors and movement in a dizzying manner. When you figure
 that flies are basically prey for many other bugs, animals, birds, etc., 
 they simply won't take the
 risk of being around that much perceived action. I
 moved to a rural area ant thought these hillbillies were just yanking my 
 city boy chain but I
 tried it, worked immediately! We went from hundreds of
 flies to seeing the occasional one, but he didn't hang around long.




 ~
 Please join us on Skype Monday thru Friday at 8:00 EST for our Morning 
 Skype Prayer Time.
 Also, follow my tweets on Twitter @ http://twitter.com/Donnie1261


 Contact Me At:
 Donnie Parrett
 1956 Asa Flat Road
 Annville, Kentucky  40402
 Home Phone:  606-364-3321
 Church Phone:  606-364-PRAY
 Skype Name:  Donnie1261
 Email:  deparr...@prtcnet.org



 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] air power to clear cloggs

2009-08-17 Thread Jewel
Loved the story Clifford!  but it would have been even better, I think 
anyway, if the ranger's wife had been perched on the commode at the time!

 Jewel

 




Re: [BlindHandyMan] stability of Dingo loader

2009-08-14 Thread Jewel
Dan!  with all the rennervating projects you are planning, it might be worth 
watching Ebay and putting in a bid on a small crane!

   Jewel

 




Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house

2009-08-13 Thread Jewel
Lenny! On the front of the Dingo, mount a couple of transducers similar to 
those used in the Kay Sonic Aid, or even simpler, a Laser cane and have the 
information fed back to you!

 Jewel


- Original Message - 
From: Paul Franklin pcfrank...@charter.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 3:13 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house



 Dale, my Son in-law has one of those walk behind Dingo Loaders that he 
 uses in his stamped concrete business.  The only close contact that I have 
 had with this machine was when I helped him change a blown tire on it a 
 couple of weeks ago.  In addition to the loader bucket this machine came 
 with 2 different sized post whole augers, a trenching attachment and a 
 grader blade.  He purchased it used, and I think that he paid about $5,000 
 for this particular machine.  He uses the bucket to dig out for concrete 
 sidewalks and patios, and the post whole auger to dig wholes for concrete 
 columns to support wooden decks.  I am confident that I could operate this 
 machine as a totally blind person however the main drawback is that I 
 would probably be stopping and walking around to find out what was in 
 front of me pretty regularly.



 Paul Franklin





  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 12:31 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house


I think I would like to have and operate one of those little Dingo 
 style loaders, a walk-behind machine. One would need to take very good 
 care not to have it tip into the digging works or otherwise drop a track 
 or wheel over the edge of something too high to retain it's balance but 
 under the right circumstances it could work rather well.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Franklin
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 11:10 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house

  I was born with R P, so for most of my early life I was partially sighted 
 during the day and essentially blind at night or in low light situations. 
 While growing up in the hills of rural Connecticut, I learned to operate 
 all types of excavating equipment, and for about 10 years I ran my own 
 part time excavating business. I had several backhoes and front end 
 loaders, a couple of good sized dozers and a truck and trailer to haul it 
 all around. For the most part I depended on equipment operators to do most 
 of the jobs and drive the truck. Occasionally if we were busy, and we had 
 a simple job like digging a ditch or clearing a building lot, I might 
 tackle it myself. I really enjoyed using the equipment especially the 
 dozers, but I actually spent most of my time estimating jobs or trying to 
 keep the equipment running. Eventually my sight deteriorated to the point 
 that the excavating business no longer work for me, and I guess that maybe 
 my intellectual age finally began to catch up with my chronological age so 
 I decided that it was time to get a real job.

  As a totally blind person the only type of equipment that I think that I 
 might still be able to operate with any degree of success would be a 
 backhoe. If someone located the unit where the whole needed to be dug, 
 using the sound of the engine, the sound of the bucket scraping through 
 the soil, feeling the changes of balance of the machine and relying on 
 many hours of experience working the controls of a backhoe, I think I 
 could still dig a pretty good ditch.

  Paul Franklin

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 3:07 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house

  On Tue, 11 Aug 2009, carl wrote:

   has anyone had a go of an earth mover or a back ho?
  
  Not yet. My father-in-law has a couple of pieces of equipment like that,
  but I've not yet convinced him to let me take one out for a spin.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus 
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  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

  http://www.eset.com

  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus 
 signature database 4329 (20090812) __

  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

  http://www.eset.com

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  http://www.eset.com



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 signature

Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house

2009-08-13 Thread Jewel
I am sorry, my previous message should have been addressed to Paul, not 
Lenny!

Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Paul Franklin pcfrank...@charter.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 3:13 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house



 Dale, my Son in-law has one of those walk behind Dingo Loaders that he 
 uses in his stamped concrete business.  The only close contact that I have 
 had with this machine was when I helped him change a blown tire on it a 
 couple of weeks ago.  In addition to the loader bucket this machine came 
 with 2 different sized post whole augers, a trenching attachment and a 
 grader blade.  He purchased it used, and I think that he paid about $5,000 
 for this particular machine.  He uses the bucket to dig out for concrete 
 sidewalks and patios, and the post whole auger to dig wholes for concrete 
 columns to support wooden decks.  I am confident that I could operate this 
 machine as a totally blind person however the main drawback is that I 
 would probably be stopping and walking around to find out what was in 
 front of me pretty regularly.



 Paul Franklin





  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 12:31 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house


I think I would like to have and operate one of those little Dingo 
 style loaders, a walk-behind machine. One would need to take very good 
 care not to have it tip into the digging works or otherwise drop a track 
 or wheel over the edge of something too high to retain it's balance but 
 under the right circumstances it could work rather well.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Franklin
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 11:10 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house

  I was born with R P, so for most of my early life I was partially sighted 
 during the day and essentially blind at night or in low light situations. 
 While growing up in the hills of rural Connecticut, I learned to operate 
 all types of excavating equipment, and for about 10 years I ran my own 
 part time excavating business. I had several backhoes and front end 
 loaders, a couple of good sized dozers and a truck and trailer to haul it 
 all around. For the most part I depended on equipment operators to do most 
 of the jobs and drive the truck. Occasionally if we were busy, and we had 
 a simple job like digging a ditch or clearing a building lot, I might 
 tackle it myself. I really enjoyed using the equipment especially the 
 dozers, but I actually spent most of my time estimating jobs or trying to 
 keep the equipment running. Eventually my sight deteriorated to the point 
 that the excavating business no longer work for me, and I guess that maybe 
 my intellectual age finally began to catch up with my chronological age so 
 I decided that it was time to get a real job.

  As a totally blind person the only type of equipment that I think that I 
 might still be able to operate with any degree of success would be a 
 backhoe. If someone located the unit where the whole needed to be dug, 
 using the sound of the engine, the sound of the bucket scraping through 
 the soil, feeling the changes of balance of the machine and relying on 
 many hours of experience working the controls of a backhoe, I think I 
 could still dig a pretty good ditch.

  Paul Franklin

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 3:07 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house

  On Tue, 11 Aug 2009, carl wrote:

   has anyone had a go of an earth mover or a back ho?
  
  Not yet. My father-in-law has a couple of pieces of equipment like that,
  but I've not yet convinced him to let me take one out for a spin.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus 
 signature database 4325 (20090811) __

  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

  http://www.eset.com

  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus 
 signature database 4329 (20090812) __

  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

  http://www.eset.com

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus 
 signature database 4329 (20090812) __

  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

  http://www.eset.com



 __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus 
 signature database 4332 (20090813) __

 The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

 http://www.eset.com

Re: [BlindHandyMan] building a house

2009-08-11 Thread Jewel
400 bucks a year for electricity:  Dan!  Move over buddy!  I'm movin' in!

Jewel



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon

2009-08-03 Thread Jewel
Ed could you just heat the opposite surfaces, and press them together so 
that they bond?

   Jewel 




Re: [BlindHandyMan] Patio project update.

2009-08-02 Thread Jewel
I place myself between the handles and pull the wheelbarrow behind me.


Jewel


- Original Message - 
From: Betsy Whitney braill...@hawaii.rr.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 5:24 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Patio project update.


 Aloha Ray,
 I was just curious if you had considered moving bakward while using
 the wheelbarrel? When I have to move things like that, I move
 backward and then I can check behind myself with my feet to avoid
 plants and such. I generally plan some things with which I do not
 want or need husband/Mr. Marvelous to participate, when he is away or
 napping. We have very different ideas about how things should be
 accomplished, and if I do it myself, I don't have to go back and
 clean up his back trail.
 Just a thought,
 Betsy
 At 07:04 PM 8/1/2009, you wrote:


Hi Dale

Does your wife help you for this is a major project with it seems more 
hard
work ahead.

Keep us informed as you go for I am interested in what you have under 
taken
here.

If I am doing anything out in the yard my wife works alongside me telling 
me
what I am doing wrong.

If I am pushing a Wheel Barrow she tells me in what direction it should be
going so I do not knock over her plants, or run over the dog.

It is amazing what we as blind people can achieve when we set our minds on 
a
project.

Ray

From:
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Sunday, 2 August 2009 9:03 AM
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Patio project update.

On Tuesday a truck should be arriving with several hundred retaining wall
blocks of two types and a load of retaining edging and spikes for the 
patio.
I have about three quarters of it laid but have to take a small diversion 
to
break up a small set of stairs I had poured 18 years ago when I first 
scaped
the yard. The steps have subsided quite a bit in one corner and in doing 
so
pulled away from the cement block forming some of the wall of the well.
These are three steps which descent to a landing before a turn to descend
the rest of the way to a basement door entry. It is a shame to have to
destroy the steps really, I did a rather good job, they are formed inside 
a
sort of box. Clever though the design was, it is a lot of cement to bust 
up.
I rented a big bosch electric jack hammer for the week-end, hopefully it
won't kill me, so far I have removed the bottom step and about a third of
the second step which is solid to the bottom. I think I'll quit for ton
ight.

I believe I'll line the well again but this time with retaining wall 
stones
to include risers for the steps. I will fill behind with sharp sand and
compact it firmly then cap with caps stones and probably stick them down
with some heavy construction adhesive.That way, if they fail again all I
need do is dig 'em up and lay them again.

That hammer gets mighty heavy for a little chap after four or five hours I
can tell you.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Homemade Remedies for Your Garden

2009-07-20 Thread Jewel
The yeast-based sandwich spread is the inimicable VEGEMITE!!!
   Jewel


On Sun, 19 Jul 2009, Betsy Whitney wrote:
 
 Aloha Spiro,
 I have been contemplating your question about the yeast based
 sandwich spread, and just can't come up with anything. We even
 checked our mayonaise jar to make sure there was no yeast in it.
 Such a puzzle, Betsy

 At 02:54 AM 7/19/2009, you wrote:





Re: [BlindHandyMan] Concreting again

2009-07-15 Thread Jewel
Ray!  I suppose that it would be out of the question, finnancially speaking, 
but could you consider having the Pohutukawa lifted out in its entirety, and 
replanted in another location.  It is quite possible to do that with a tree 
of a mere 18 feet high, but the tree has to be prepared by having its roots 
wrenched over a period of a couple of months, and it is expensive.

 




Re: [BlindHandyMan] Concreting again

2009-07-13 Thread Jewel
Ray!  If you lived in New Zealand, you would not be allowed to chop down 
that New Zealand christmas * bush without jumping through a number of very 
convoluted hoops in the, possibly, vain attempt to get a permit to achieve 
your wicked ends.
Now, that * bush, if I read you right, is a puhutakawa:
NZ christmas * tree.

  Jewel 




Re: [BlindHandyMan] Hungary mission trip

2009-06-30 Thread Jewel
Bob!  You do amaze me!  I think that you are totally blind, or near enough 
to being so aren't you?
People often say to me that they are *amazed at the things I achieve, and 
often, to be frank, when I look at something that I have built years ago, I, 
too, am amazed, and wonder how I did it, but when I read of the things you, 
and many others on this list do, I am completely blown away!

 Jewel

- Original Message - 
From: chiliblindman bo...@ptdprolog.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 2009 2:35 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Hungary mission trip


 I made it back in very good spirit and a little under the weather.
 What I had done on this trip wasn't very hard again mentally, just 
 physical.  The first 2 days I painted 2 basketball courts, white lines to 
 mark everything on the blacktop.
 The next day I did a little painting in the entrance of their main 
 conference building and sanctuary.  The rest of the week I did spackling 
 in the sanctuary of corners that needed rebuilt and nicks and dings in the 
 walls.
 The following week I had rope climbing duty, cargo nets and swing duty 
 with the kids.  It rained the whole week so that didn't amount to much. 
 Since day one of the second week was such a loss I did remodeling in a 
 house there when it rained.  I hard spackled an entire house, kitchen, 
 dinning living, entrance and bathroom, all but one room.  Only 90 minutes 
 till the hard spackle turns as hard as a cinder block.  The homes are made 
 of 6 inch square hard baked ceramic blocks, covered with cement.  All 
 electrical gets bonded on that and than everything is hard spackled to 
 make the wall entirely flush.  My first coat was at a lot of places over 
 an inch and a quarter thick.  Second coats were thinner and corners were 
 done one side at a time.  One guy mixed the hard spackle in a 2 and a half 
 gallon bucket.  Friday, the last day I did third coat where needed, 
 finished the corners and door ways.
 I have been invited back again to do an entire house after the outside 
 structure and roof are in place.  This house like the one I just worked on 
 will house long term missionaries.  I will also be allowed to live in town 
 entirely with the nationals, which I consider great if you really want to 
 get to know the people.
 The work was hard on the body.  I did manage to gain a little weight. 
 They do like deserts over there and the supply and variety was almost 
 endless.  After supper every night I was invited out for more deserts and 
 ice cream.  all in all, I ate as hard as I worked.
 All of this was in support of the Christian children's camp held all 
 summer.  It is also a campus of the Bible College there for the purpose of 
 teaching missionaries to make disciples for Jesus Christ Our Lord.  It was 
 a honor to have just a tiny part in this work.
 bob

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] One tough weekend.

2009-06-29 Thread Jewel
What has always puzzled me is the amount of extra soil one needs to find 
when putting a fence post in place.
One digs the hole, with the result that there is a large pile of soil put 
aside.  One then places the post in the hole, thus reducing its volume.
Given that the earth was heavily compacted before you dug it out, and that 
the hole is smaller now by the size of the post, one would be led to believe 
that the pile of soil would be more than adequate to fill the said hole, but 
it never is.  You always have to go looking for extra soil if you do not 
wish to have a depression left around the base of the post.

Jewel

- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu
To: Blind Handyman List BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 9:04 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] One tough weekend.


I had been spending a couple of hours each night last week, digging the
 pit for the basement door.  I took one night off due to rain, but got four
 evenings of digging in.

 On Saturday, after running errands in the morning, I was complaining to a
 neighbor that I had no place to make all the dirt disappear to.

 He started talking about lifting some of the sidewalk slabs in the
 courtyard, that had pretty seriously subsided, and back filling them.
 That sounded like a much bigger job than I was willing to take on at the
 moment.

 Well, after standing around discussing it, a few more neighbors wandered
 over to see what we were talking about.  Before long, giant steel pry bars
 started appearing.  Super thick PVC pipes showed up.  And then we were
 prying, and heaving nearly half ton cement slabs out of the ground and
 sliding them over adjacent slabs.

 I figured it was silly because we would only get rid of a few buckets full
 of dirt.  Well, five wheel barrows full later, the dirt was leveled up and
 we started the arduous process of heaving the slabs back in place.  It
 wasn't a perfect job, but they are much more level now than they were, and
 after a few rains and  freeze thaw cycles, I bet they settle in perfectly.

 Then I spent the rest of Saturday and Sunday finishing the pit.  The
 hole kept getting bigger as I planned and replanned the final dimensions.
 It got wider by 8 inches and longer by four, when I decided to put 4 inch
 pipe and gravel around the perimeter for drainage.

 It got four inches wider when I realized that cement blocks are 8 X 8 X
 16, and my dimensions didn't fit into that nicely, so I made the hole
 wider to accommodate easier cement block courses.

 It is amazing how much dirt fluffs up when you dig it out of a hole.  I
 dug out a bit under three yards of dirt, and the pile under my deck must
 be at least five yards big.

 It will probably stay there, tarped over, until next year when I decide to
 build a retaining wall on my neighbors property, that I intend to
 purchase, and terrace off the hillside there.

 -- 
 Blue skies.
 Dan Rossi
 Carnegie Mellon University.
 E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
 Tel: (412) 268-9081


 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] floor, steam cleaner

2009-06-28 Thread Jewel
The question I would pose is:  what happens to the steam?  It strikes me 
that it would condense on the walls, windows etc, and unless one had a 
dehumidifier, it would be as though one's home had transmogrified into a 
tropical rain forest!

Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: john schwery jschw...@embarqmail.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 29, 2009 4:28 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] floor, steam cleaner


 For whoever got the cleaner from QVC, how much did the cleaner cost
 from them?  And, let us know how you like it.


 John



 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] clothes line pole

2009-06-25 Thread Jewel
Victor spoke of insurance claims being due to acts of god and therefore 
not under the claimant's control.  Knowing the slipperiness of insurance 
companies and there penchant for wriggling out of settling perfectly legit 
claims, I would not put it past them to trot out the excuse that the 
claimant must have angered god, therefore the occurrence * was under his 
control!

Jewel- Original Message - 
From: Victor victor.gouv...@rogers.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2009 12:51 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] clothes line pole


 Hi Scott,

 While I agree with you that filing a claim with your insurance company if
 there happens something that cannot be controlled by yourself, or the
 environment, however, this was an accident, and one perpetrated by one who
 was lax in his responsibility in that they drove drunk.

 This is not held against you when filing a claim because circumstances 
 were
 not under your control.

 The same goes for flooding, acts of God and the like.

 While acts of God, like lightening strikes, earthquakes or damage 
 resulting
 from the weather will require the payment of a deductible, in the case of 
 a
 drunk ramming into your fence, it's a no brainer, and the company will
 recoup their losses from the driver's insurance company.

 If the company cannot recoup it's losses from a third party, then yes, it
 will be placed on your record, and a deductible will need to be paid.

 At least, that's how it works up here in Canada with insurance companies.

 Victor



 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Epson Salt

2009-06-23 Thread Jewel
For many years, on public radio, we had Doctor H P Herbert giving his down 
to earth tips on family health.  This programme was scheduled to air for six 
weeks!   Doctor Herbert made his last broadcast 48 years later, when he 
retired at the age of 80.

Them were the days weren't they folks?

I am a great believer in the medicinal uses of epsom salts, and I remember 
that several of Doctor Herbert's tips contained this highly versatile 
mineral.
The ones I remember are:
  for a deeply -embedded splinter.  put a layer of epsom salts on a piece of 
lint;  place it over the site of the splinter and sticking plaster it in 
place.  The epsom salts will draw the splinter towards the surface so that 
it can be easily removed.
Do the same if a finger or toe has been poisoned by the intrusion of a thorn 
etc.  A good homemade ointment is to heat glycerine and mix in epsom salts. 
It will have to be heated before application as the two ingredients tend to 
separate when cold.
Mixed with water, it makes a great eye wash.
If your feet are tired and sore, make up an epsom salts bath in which to 
soak the poor abused members.
and for the garden:  if your lawn is infested with broad-leafed plants such 
as dandelion,  with a knife, cut them off at or below soil level and then 
coat the raw stump with  epsom salts.  This will cause the stumps to bleed 
profusely, thus causing the plant's demise.
In fact, if all else fails:  give epsom salts a whirl!

  Jewel 




Re: [BlindHandyMan] Epson Salt

2009-06-23 Thread Jewel
Don't blind handpersons get deeply-embedded splinters etc?  How is this 
thread getting way off topic?

Jewel
- Original Message - 
From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Epson Salt


I do believe that we are getting way off topic for the list.
 Moderator
 - Original Message - 
 From: Jewel jewelbla...@xtra.co.nz
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2009 10:29 PM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Epson Salt


 For many years, on public radio, we had Doctor H P Herbert giving his down
 to earth tips on family health.  This programme was scheduled to air for 
 six
 weeks!   Doctor Herbert made his last broadcast 48 years later, when he
 retired at the age of 80.

 Them were the days weren't they folks?

 I am a great believer in the medicinal uses of epsom salts, and I remember
 that several of Doctor Herbert's tips contained this highly versatile
 mineral.
 The ones I remember are:
  for a deeply -embedded splinter.  put a layer of epsom salts on a piece 
 of
 lint;  place it over the site of the splinter and sticking plaster it in
 place.  The epsom salts will draw the splinter towards the surface so that
 it can be easily removed.
 Do the same if a finger or toe has been poisoned by the intrusion of a 
 thorn
 etc.  A good homemade ointment is to heat glycerine and mix in epsom 
 salts.
 It will have to be heated before application as the two ingredients tend 
 to
 separate when cold.
 Mixed with water, it makes a great eye wash.
 If your feet are tired and sore, make up an epsom salts bath in which to
 soak the poor abused members.
 and for the garden:  if your lawn is infested with broad-leafed plants 
 such
 as dandelion,  with a knife, cut them off at or below soil level and then
 coat the raw stump with  epsom salts.  This will cause the stumps to bleed
 profusely, thus causing the plant's demise.
 In fact, if all else fails:  give epsom salts a whirl!

  Jewel




 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cordless Fastening in Tight Spots

2009-03-20 Thread Jewel
Bob!  How do you know when the head of the screw has gone as deep as you want 
it to?

Jewel
- Original Message -
From: Bob Kennedy bobke...@bellsouth.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 9:33 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cordless Fastening in Tight Spots


I have the Dewalt 18 volt and love it.  However, the article says it is one 
speed while in fact it
is variable speed.

It is very strong for a battery powered tool.  I have actually taken the lug 
nuts off the front
wheel of my car as an experiment so there is more than enough power.  I don't 
recommend working on
lug nuts with one, especially since I have an air powered model with 600 pounds 
of torque in
reverse.  But for any type of wood fasteners you'll fall in love if you don't 
have one.  You do have
to be careful to stop when the screw bottoms out.  Once it starts hammering, 
it's hard to tell when
you're done and if you don't stop, chances are good that the tool won't either. 
 Again since I get
bored easy, I ran a 3 inch deck screw joining 2 pieces of 2 by 4.  When it 
started impacting, I let
it keep going and it drove the screw head over a half inch into the wood before 
I stopped.  That is
stupid I know but that's the power you are playing with...


  - Original Message -
  From: Ray Boyce
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 4:21 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cordless Fastening in Tight Spots


  By Charlie Self

  This is long so get a cup ot tea or coffee and let Jaws read on.

  Every house has its nooks and crannies where there's trouble inserting a
  screwdriver, or power driver, to drill holes or drive fasteners in spots
  where they are needed.

  Driving a screw with an anvil may sound a bit off-the-wall, but that's what
  impact drivers do. A tiny anvil strikes, internally, to drive the screw so
  quickly that much of the time it seems to melt into the work. Little
  pressure is needed on the head of the tool-just enough to keep it in the
  screwhead slots (aim for square-drive, Phillips and Torx heads to reduce cam
  out). Some tools offer as many as 3,200 IPM (Milwaukee's 2650-22), or
  impacts per minute, while Ridgid's right angle model kicks in at 3,100 IPM.
  Bosch's 10.8-volt PS10-2, with its articulating head (usually at a right
  angle), offers an impressive 3,000 IPM.

  Ridgid's 18V impact driver uses both li-ion and NiCad batteries.

  Do You Need Yet Another Tool?

  Whether or not you need an impact driver depends on what kind of work you
  do, or intend to do, around the house, shop and elsewhere. To ease tight
  corner chores, there are plenty of compact impact drivers.

  Impact drivers (IDs) don't work supremely well for drilling. The anvil
  strike at 2,000+ times a minute isn't ideal, on top of which it requires a
  hex head on the bits, or a hex adapter, both readily available in most
  hardware stores
  http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=60767
  http://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/mag-glass_10x10.gif. Drilling can
  be done, but it's not the main aim of the tool. In tight spots, though, IDs
  are a wonder, drilling or driving.

  Impact drivers also work well as small impact wrenches. However, use impact
  sockets, because regular sockets shatter.

  Where impact drivers really shine is at running in long (2-1/2- to 3-inch)
  deck screws, and driving ledger board lag screws rapidly. (Although, the
  9.6- and 10.8-volt models don't do well at this heavier work).

  The powerful torque means slotted screws are best avoided. Generally, only
  light pressure is used on the driver, just enough to keep it firmly in the
  screwhead opening without cam (torque) out. Slotted screws don't have enough
  gripping surface to handle the torque.

  Impact drivers work exceptionally well on any screw that gives a good
  friction fit. With pilot holes, they drive Tapcon anchor screws in concrete
  quite well.

  IDs are not a substitute for a standard drill/driver or hammer-drill. They
  are drivers, and very effective at what they do-the younger siblings of
  impact wrenches. Contractors love them; heavy-duty DIYers love 'em, too. The
  better ones are pricey. Lithium-ion is available for most and is a touch
  more costly, but is well worth it. Lithium-ion batteries are often backward
  compatible with NiCads.

  Impact drivers are many times noisier than drill/drivers. I strongly suggest
  you try a couple to see if the chattering ratchet noise is too great, before
  deciding to buy any model.

  Hitachi offers impact drivers in two sizes, 14.4V and 10.8V.

  What's Out There

  Prices range from a low of about $129 for the Ridgid right angle to more
  than $300. More costly versions are often better handling, more durable,
  more powerful, less likely to spit and sputter along the way. The Ridgid,
  though, is not a low-end tool.

  A plain ol' clutched cordless drill is fine for turning the few screws most

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Watering a large Garden with water pressure issues

2009-03-11 Thread Jewel
When one installs an underground irrigation system, how do you avoid putting a 
fork or spade through
the hose?  Is the hose buried at a depth that the gardener is not likely to 
reach in his/her
labours?

 Jewel


- Original Message -
From: Jeff Kisecker kisec...@gmail.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2009 4:48 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Watering a large Garden with water pressure issues


Depends on where you live, in the US, you can go to Lowes or any major
hardware store, you can also get timers there as well.

You can also go to http://www.orbitonline.com

An underground one would use the same type of weeping hose that Dale was
speaking of, but would be completely underground, and you would not have to
worry about turning on the hose and such.  The hoses would not be laying
around for a person to trip over.

Depending on the size of your garden, it probably wouldn't cost very much to
do.  I did my entire yard a few years ago for less than 1200 bucks.

  _




Re: [BlindHandyMan] Watering a large Garden with water pressure issues

2009-03-10 Thread Jewel
Don!  could you describe these * earth boxes and how they work.  To prevent 
complaints about
gardening * not being apros to blind handymen, for what reason defeats me!  
maybe you could do it on
blindlikeme where all topics are on track.

   Jewel

- Original Message -
From: Don n5...@yahoo.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2009 1:28 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Watering a large Garden with water pressure issues


I know this is not a  garding list, but you could solve your problem, by 
ordering some Earthboxes
from the following link.
www.earthbox.com
I purchased three of these.  They should arrive this week.  You could save all 
that water hose.
I hope these earth boxes, work as well as folks say they do, I'll be a happy 
camper, if they do.
Don

  - Original Message -
  From: Dan Rossi
  To: Blind Handymen's Forum
  Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 6:12 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Watering a large Garden with water pressure 
issues


  Can you use multiple hoses from multiple sources rather than try and feed
  all six sprinklers from one hose?

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] carpet cleaning question

2009-02-18 Thread Jewel
On the infomercials, they market a steam mop, which is said to be able to clean 
carpets just with
steam.  What they don't say is what happens to the steam.  It must condense as 
water and I visualize
it pouring down the walls and windows.  It seems to me that one would need to 
have a dehumidifier if
one were to use one of these mops.

  Jewel
- Original Message -
From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 6:24 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] carpet cleaning question


It shouldn't be all that difficult for most provided you can sort of mark out 
the area in sections
and work over each thoroughly.

You won't know if you have removed a particular stain of course but at that, 
often sighted people
can't tell until the carpet is fully dry.

There are different techniques and different equipment..

Several years ago I rented a machine from our local hardware store. They sell 
the shampoo to go with
it and you are well advised to use it although it is rather expensive by 
comparison to many
alternatives. Proper carpet shampoo or detergent is formulated to crystallize 
when it dries so it
can be vacuumed up. Other form of detergent have molecules with an affinity for 
water on one end and
for oils on the other end. The stuff you use in your hair for example or for 
washing your dishes. By
diluting the detergent with water, the process of rinsing you remove the suds 
and the dirt with it.
You can't reasonably rinse out your carpet so, you want a detergent which will 
stick to the dirt but
rather than stick to water it should release from the water as it dries and 
evaporates while
retaining oils and dirt.

So much for the chemistry.

The machine I rented had, as I recall two large canisters, one heated and a 
pump and a vacuum. The
wand had a narrow slotted business end with a trigger. You put the detergent 
and water in the heated
jar, let it get really hot then pressing the trigger you work the shampoo and 
hot water into the
carpet by pushing and pulling the wand back and forth much as you would with a 
vacuum cleaner. Once
you have scrubbed the carpet and worked the soap into it you then turn on the 
vacuum and suck the
water and muck back into the second canister. Apparently it is quite remarkable 
just how black the
water returned to the second canister is.

Here is another reason for using the correct sort of detergent. Someone had 
used one of those
foaming carpet spot removers in an area near where the television would be, I 
expect a child
probably spilled something there or puked or something. When the hot water hit 
it it foamed up all
over again and those bubbles soon filled the bucket. Took many many passes to 
get water coming up
clear over that area of about three square feet.

You won't get the carpet fully dry but by the next day it was and any residual 
detergent apparently
gets sucked up with subsequent regular dry vacuuming.

There are other machines, a device something like a floor polisher with 
revolving pads which
apparently work shampoo into the carpet before sucking back up with a separate 
vacuum.Personally I
have never used that system but a landlord had one and used it in the first 
apartment we rented when
we first arrived here decades ago.

So, provided you can be fairly confident of working over the entire area in a 
more or less
consistent way and are able to dump the full containers of filthy water down 
the toilet I don't see
what the problem would be for a blind person to shampoo a carpet.



  - Original Message -
  From: Shane Hecker
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 11:52 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] carpet cleaning question


  I've never atempted this before, so please humor me. How hard is it for a
  totally blind person to shampoo a carpet? I can vacuum sure, but how much
  different is it fromvacuuming? I'm assuming it's much like mopping. I use a
  hard floor machine from Hoover to clean the hard floors, but this machine
  also can do carpets, hence the question.

  Shane




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking rain gauge

2009-02-13 Thread Jewel
Dale!  Have you ever gone out in your stockinged feet to check on Janet's 
reliability?
Would I be correct in saying:  NEVER!!!

   Jewel
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 1:45 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking rain gauge



I've had an accessible talking rain gauge for over 38 years now. I just push
Janet out the door in sock feet. You can hear all you ever wanted to about
the rain all over the neighbourhood.

- 



Re: [BlindHandyMan] treadmills

2009-02-10 Thread Jewel
For indoor exercise, I do high knee lift running on the spot!  I stand between 
two solid objects:
in my case, the kitchen stove and a table:  on which I rest my hands.  In this 
way, my arms can take
some of my weight rather than my leg joints and also it keeps me from moving 
around.

  .

   Jewel
- Original Message -
From: Michael Baldwin mbald...@cableone.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 2:31 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] treadmills


Jewel,
Around here it is pretty flat, so walking on a treadmill, I can use the
incline, and burn more fat.  And trying to walk with a 30 month old and a 6
month old, isn't all that fun.  Although we go outside for walks, but with
small children, it is harder to walk fast.

$1000.00 treadmill is much cheaper than a hospital stay for a heart attack.
Michael




  _

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jewel
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 9:53 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] treadmills



Is that brisk walking max or just a stroll?

As for plain walking being as good as a treadmill: I thoroughly agree with
that and the wallet is a
lot healthier too!

Jewel

- Original Message -
From: Max Robinson m...@maxsmusicplace. mailto:max%40maxsmusicplace.com
com
To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] treadmills

I found that when I walked on a treadmill I didn't walk exactly straight
because I couldn't see and the belt would move off to one side and grind
against the frame until the edge started to fray and eventually started
tearing. I ruined two treadmills this way. Doctors say that just plane
walking is almost as effective as walking on a treadmill so I do my walking
in the house. I walk around the living room, down the hall, into the
bathroom, turn around, walk back up the hall and around the living room
again. I do that for an hour each day.

Regards.

Max. K 4 O D S.

Email: m...@maxsmusicplace. mailto:max%40maxsmusicplace.com com

Transistor site http://www.funwitht http://www.funwithtransistors.net
ransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwitht http://www.funwithtubes.net ubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusi http://www.maxsmusicplace.com cplace.com

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
funwithtubes- mailto:funwithtubes-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com
subscr...@yahoogroups.com

- Original Message -
From: Michael Baldwin mbald...@cableone. mailto:mbaldwin%40cableone.net
net
To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 9:02 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] treadmills

 Okay, those that own, or have owned a treadmill. Got a recommendation for
 a
 brand and model?
 Do you use a special pad under the treadmill to help with vibrations
 throughout the house, and to protect the floor?

 Doctor is telling me I need to get rid of some of this extra stored up
 beer,
 and a treadmill is a way I can consistently work on that.

 Thanks,
 Michael




 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] treadmills

2009-02-09 Thread Jewel
Is that brisk walking max or just a stroll?

As for plain walking being as good as a treadmill:  I thoroughly agree with 
that and the wallet is a
lot healthier too!

Jewel


- Original Message -
From: Max Robinson m...@maxsmusicplace.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] treadmills


I found that when I walked on a treadmill I didn't walk exactly straight
because I couldn't see and the belt would move off to one side and grind
against the frame until the edge started to fray and eventually started
tearing.  I ruined two treadmills this way.  Doctors say that just plane
walking is almost as effective as walking on a treadmill so I do my walking
in the house.  I walk around the living room, down the hall, into the
bathroom, turn around, walk back up the hall and around the living room
again.  I do that for an hour each day.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com

- Original Message -
From: Michael Baldwin mbald...@cableone.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 9:02 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] treadmills


 Okay, those that own, or have owned a treadmill.  Got a recommendation for
 a
 brand and model?
 Do you use a special pad under the treadmill to help with vibrations
 throughout the house, and to protect the floor?

 Doctor is telling me I need to get rid of some of this extra stored up
 beer,
 and a treadmill is a way I can consistently work on that.

 Thanks,
 Michael




 

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 blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
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 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
 List Members At The Following address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] A little excitement in Hilo, oi...

2009-01-29 Thread Jewel
Betsy!  Whence did the rock come?  from the hand of an ill-disposed and 
deranged human, or was it
from your goddess of volcanic fire?  and I apologize to the lady as I cannot 
remember her name!

   Jewel
- Original Message -
From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press braill...@hawaii.rr.com
To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 8:43 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A little excitement in Hilo, oi...


Aloha all,
As I was calmly sitting here reading about all the snow shoveling
going on and being ever so grateful that I couldn't add anything to
the topic, having no experience, I heard this strange popping noise
in the living room. The gardener was outside making a bunch of noise,
but it was a very odd pop, so I, being the brave one in my house,
went to discover the origin. When I arrived in the room, I heard a
sound that sounded like something sparking, but I didn't smell
anything burning. I decided that I was no longer going to be the
brave one because we have an older haligin lamp in that area, and I
am not fond of sparking electricity. I went to find he who supposedly
sees all, and we discovered that the lamp was fine, but that a rock
had hit the sliding door and that little popping sound that was still
occurring, was our glass cracking. I have to tell you that I wish I
could have recorded it because it was a very odd noise. So, after
covering both sides of the door with large sheets of brown paper to
somewhat confine the falling pieces, I went to fetch extra blankets
and warm slippers. It's not too cold tonight, but for the last four
nights, it has been in the mid fifties.

Tomorrow we will have someone come to install new glass because we
don't have a vehicle to transport a sheet of glass that long, and
because of course, the part of the door that shattered is the stationery side.

Thanks for listening...
Betsy

Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] A little excitement in Hilo, oi...

2009-01-29 Thread Jewel
Just after I sent the last message off, I think that I * did remember the 
lady's name:  Palau isn't
it?

   Jewel
- Original Message -
From: Jewel jewelbla...@xtra.co.nz
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 10:03 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A little excitement in Hilo, oi...


Betsy!  Whence did the rock come?  from the hand of an ill-disposed and 
deranged human, or was it
from your goddess of volcanic fire?  and I apologize to the lady as I cannot 
remember her name!

   Jewel
-



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm nailer and a question

2009-01-13 Thread Jewel
A pair of electrician's crimping pliers would do the same as they have little 
grooves all along the
jaws, and being thinner than regular pliers would be able to hold something 
like a tack that can be
murder to hold with your fingers.  Being so short:  by the time you have it, 
the tack, held, there
is no exposed tack to whack.

  Jewel

- Original Message -
From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 8:48 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm nailer and a question


I have a  thing for starting nails that is like a thick pair of plyers with
various sized holes through the business end   Thus when you open the plyers
you open each hole in half.  Grab a nail in the appropriate hole and hold
the device against the surface, start the nail, and open
the plyers to remove them.

Havn't used it much cause I hate nails, but it seems to work.

Believe got it from Harbor Freight

Tom




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Christmas toys.

2008-12-26 Thread Jewel
Dan!  It sounds to me that the adage that goes:  Be very careful of what you 
wish for: because you
might just get it! is not too far from the truth!
Jewel
- Original Message -
From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu
To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 5:20 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Christmas toys.


I was a pretty good boy this year, I guess.  I got the 48 inch Macklanburg
Duncan level frame to use with my MD audible level.  I got a circ saw, a
new router, a Rigid shop vac, and a crap load of clamps.

I told my family that you can never have enough clamps.  So, I received a
whole hell of a lot of clamps.  I got a set of C clamps from one inch up
to 8 inches.  I got several F clamps from about three inches up to about
10 inches.  A mess of various sized giant close-pin style clamps, a set of
six tiny pinch clamps, and a wood clamp.  Plus a set of large 90 degree
plastic corners that you can use to clamp wood to, to mate at a perfect
corner.  Plus a very large 90 degree clamp, that looks like it could hold
2X6 boards on the flat.

Time to start designing my work bench, and consider turning my tiny corner
of the basement into a usable shop.

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] How did you Join the Electrical Extension Jewel

2008-12-17 Thread Jewel
Hi Ray!  I have been kinda busy with other projects over the last few days, but 
I will go ahead with
the plastic jar as the primary insulator, and, in time, will get some caulking 
silicon to finish the
job.
The article on the correct installation and maintenance of an electric fence 
was very interesting
and informative.  Some of the information was new to me, but some of it I 
already have in place,
such as regular cut-out switches at gateways to aid in tracing the whereabouts 
of a short.
My fence puts out between 4 and 5000 volts so can be adversely affected by 
grass growing up around
the wire.
Many years ago, maybe 30, Gallagher came up with an idea that they called a 
grass fence  This
consisted of two high voltage: around 5 if I remember correctly: wires that 
were stretched 12
inches above the ground and the same apart.  The idea was that the grass would 
grow up between these
two wires and the stock would come to recognize this grass wall as being  an 
impassible barrier.
The success of the grass fence was reliant on exceptional grounding at the 
start of the fence.
With the wires carrying such a high voltage, they  were unaffected by the 
vegetation surrounding
them, and it:  the high voltage pulses:  also killed off the grass in the 
immediate vicinity of the
wire.
I haven't heard of this type of containment system for a very long time so I 
suspect that the
concept didn't meet with wild approval.

   Jewel age -
From: Ray Boyce rayb...@westnet.com.au
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 9:11 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How did you Join the Electrical Extension Jewel


Hi Jewel

How did  you go joining the electric fence extension.

What did you decide to use glass plastic or as Ron suggested.

Did you find the article I found had any tips for better installation  of
your electric fence.

It is always good for members to let us know what they did to overcome a
problem.

Thanks

Ray



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable

2008-12-13 Thread Jewel
I think that I will stick to my jar idea.  I will replace the plastic jar with 
a glass one that I
have found, and will get a glazier's drill.  I feel more confident of the 
durability of the glass
than I do of the plastic.
I will also spread some silicon around the holes to keep any water out.
Thank you all for your helpful suggestions.

 Jewel


- Original Message -
From: cheetah cheet...@frontiernet.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 2:41 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable


hi jewel the only thing would do is put a mess of calk around the cable
where it goes through the jar ends.
Jim




[BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable

2008-12-12 Thread Jewel
I have widened a gateway under which runs the cable carrying the electricity to 
my hot wire fence.
Consequently, I have had to extend the cable.
Preventing the joint from coming in contact with water and  soil:  both 
implacable enemies of
electricity:  is the essential component to making the extension work.
What I have done is to drill a hole in the lid and bottom of a plastic jar:  
fed the cable through
the holes so that one cable has the lid threaded on to it, and the other, the 
jar itself.  I then
clamped the two cables together and pulled the cable back so that the clamp is 
enclosed within the
jar and screwed the lid on.
I haven't reburied the cable yet, as I wanted to know if you think that what I 
have done, to date,
is sufficient protection.
When I do dig the cable back in, I plan to put a brick on either side of the 
jar so that, if a
vehicle should pass over top of it, it will be the bricks that will take the 
weight, leaving the jar
unhurt!
I would have preferred to use a glass jar, but I did not know how to drill a 
hole through glass:
hence the ubiquitous plastic jar.
If I had used a glass jar, its life within the ground would be very long, but 
what about the
plastic.
It is not too late to change the jars if anyone can tell me a good, safe way to 
drill through glass!
Any better ideas will be studied and evaluated for their betterness!

   Jewel




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable

2008-12-12 Thread Jewel
I will ask one of the specialist hardware dealers in town about dielectric 
grease.

   Jewel


- Original Message -
From: NLG nge...@pennswoods.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable


I would put dielectric grease on the splice.  If the jar isn't huge, I would
fill it also with dielectric grease.

- Original Message -
From: Jewel jewelbla...@xtra.co.nz
To: bhm blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 08:34 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable


I have widened a gateway under which runs the cable carrying the electricity
to my hot wire fence.
Consequently, I have had to extend the cable.
Preventing the joint from coming in contact with water and  soil:  both
implacable enemies of
electricity:  is the essential component to making the extension work.
What I have done is to drill a hole in the lid and bottom of a plastic jar:
fed the cable through
the holes so that one cable has the lid threaded on to it, and the other,
the jar itself.  I then
clamped the two cables together and pulled the cable back so that the clamp
is enclosed within the
jar and screwed the lid on.
I haven't reburied the cable yet, as I wanted to know if you think that what
I have done, to date,
is sufficient protection.
When I do dig the cable back in, I plan to put a brick on either side of the
jar so that, if a
vehicle should pass over top of it, it will be the bricks that will take the
weight, leaving the jar
unhurt!
I would have preferred to use a glass jar, but I did not know how to drill a
hole through glass:
hence the ubiquitous plastic jar.
If I had used a glass jar, its life within the ground would be very long,
but what about the
plastic.
It is not too late to change the jars if anyone can tell me a good, safe way
to drill through glass!
Any better ideas will be studied and evaluated for their betterness!

   Jewel




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ion=47:29
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List Members At The Following address:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable

2008-12-12 Thread Jewel
Okay! I am assembling a little list of ideas for my underground cable 
extension:  dielectric grease
and a sleeve.
There is a business just up the road called Dairy and Pumps, so they might be 
the very people to
consult.  Thanks RJ.

Jewel
- Original Message -
From: RJ r...@velocity.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 3:41 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable


You can get a sleve for this purpose. Any place that sales pump equipment
should have this in stock. The phone and electric companies use this method
and so does the people that put in submershable water pumps.
RJ
- Origi



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Article on Correct Installation of Electric Fences.

2008-12-12 Thread Jewel
Thanks very much for the url Ray!  I will add it, without a moment's delay, to 
my favourites list.

   Jewel



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

2008-11-19 Thread Jewel
One of our department stores had a very good special on 20 inch chainsaws 
recently, and being a
sucker for chainsaws, I went along to buy one.

The nasty little jumped-up salesman wouldn't sell me one unless  I was prepared 
to sign a waiver to
the effect that if injured, I would not sue them.  I had no worry about signing 
such a document, but
it was a clear case of discrimination for anyone can injure themselves with a 
chainsaw, and do those
others have to sign a waiver? no they don't!
Now, this is a store that sold me, without hesitation, a rotary garden hoe that 
didn't have a
clutch, even though, for reasons of safety,  I had, distinctly, said that a 
clutch it must have.
I did not find that it had no clutch until I got it home and was attempting to 
find the safety
feature I had demanded it * MUST have!
When I say a * clutch, I mean that the machine can be put out of gear, so that 
the hoe tines stops
spinning, but the motor is still running.

  Jewel



Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical power uses cut

2008-10-29 Thread Jewel
If there are inquisitive kids in the house, it is advisable to turn the switch 
to off if there is
nothing plugged into the socket so that if the little darlings poke a metal 
object into one of those
inviting little holes, the aforesaid ld won't get a shock that it won't forget 
for a good long time.
Of Course, there is nothing to stop our what will happen if? budding inventor 
from turning the
switch to on, but you, the responsible adult, has done his/her best.
Probably better than relying on the off position of the switch to protect 
children, is a plug
guard, which is a simulated plug that fits very tightly into an unused socket.

 Jewel



Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical power uses cut

2008-10-29 Thread Jewel
The light bulb may be inactive, but I believe that the socket into which you 
plug it is not.
Therefore, when I have to change a bulb, I always turn the power off at the 
mains.

   Jewel



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