[BlindHandyMan] See Ya

[Larry Stansifer]

Hi folks,
 
Just a quick message to let youall know that I am going to
drop away from this list for a while. This decision has
nothing to do with my permanent status as corner monitor or
my politically incorrect responses. I just need to cut out
some redundant Emails.
If you want to talk about anything metal, hot-rods,
fabrication or anything automotive I am still hanging out
at: 
"these-hands-subscr...@yahoogroups.com"
You can always catch up with me at: "lar...@infowest.com."
Remember guys for any of this contact stuff to work you need
to scratch the quotes.
 
Have fun, keep making saw-dust; after-all it is a great
thing to absorb oil spills.
 
TNX
 
Larry


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] cheap tools was Drill press advice.

[Larry Stansifer]

Terry,

After having spent nearly 30 years of my life using a
variety of hand and power tools on a daily basis, I can tell
you want the best damn tool that visa, master card or AMEX
can afford. I still have $6+ invested in my tools and I
don't regret 1 nickel of that investment. I don't use them
as much as I once did but I do know that if and when I need
them they are there and ready to go.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Terry
Klarich
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 9:08 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com; Bill Stephan
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cheap tools was Drill press
advice.


In my mind, a cheap tool is one that can not hold up to the
work or accurately reproduce results.  Take a cheap
tablesaw.  My previous contracter saw, was cheap.  When
returning the blade to 90 degrees after making bevel cuts,
the blade would always become out of line with the miter
slot.  I would always have to readjust the trunion.  Also,,
if I would move the fence to the left side of the blade, for
any reason and clamp it down, I would have to re-square the
fence again on the right.  I think I spent as much time
cutting as I did adjusting on that saw.  I had a cheap
router that wouldn't maintain depth setting and wouldn't
always hold bits securely.  I was assured by the manufacture
the router was in perfect working order.  The only guide
bushings available for the router were plastic (which didn't
hold up at all).  (not only cheap; but, dangerous)

Terry
On Thu, 08 Jan 2009 09:50:31 -0600you write:
>
>Somethimes though, what makes a tool cheap or perhaps of
less quality 
>is inviting.  I bought a light weight cheap table saw last
S ummer 
>precisely because I can move it easily.  I have to use this
on a rather 
>uneven surface, so wheels, unless they were adjustab le,
aren't really 
>an option.
>



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] tool cabinet

[Larry Stansifer]

Ron,

You just nailed one of my biggest bitches with Craftsman
roll cabs. The damn casters are to small and they don't
lock.
Service technicians are required to move their tool boxes to
the car they are working on. I can't tell you how many times
some poor sap with one of those Craftsman roll cabs with a
top-box had it take off across the shop. One time one of the
guys had his box side-swipe a brand new Mercedes 560 and an
open drawer put a really nice scratch down the side.  I also
remember a couple of guys who caught one of those little
casters in an expansion joint in the floor and the whole
thing went over.
This certainly isn't meant as an indictment against Sears
tool cabinets, its just what I have seen happen with several
of them over the years.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ron
Yearns
Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 1:19 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tool cabinet


Actually my wife and I tried a heavy tilting and banging
last night and since getting it open today it did rearrange
things a bit.  We almost lost it on the floor.  It is very
heavy with tools and the castors don't lock.  Don't try that
at home. Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: clifford 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 10:17 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tool cabinet


  Dear Ron:
  If all else fails, recruit a couple body builders to
assist with picking up the unit and turning the drawers down
and give it a good shaking. I realize that you would have
fun re-organizing the contents, but that should dislodge the
errant socket set.

  Yours Truly,

  Clifford Wilson
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ron Yearns 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 10:04 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] tool cabinet

  OK help. I have a roll around Sears Craftsman tool
cabinet. Steel 4 
  drawer locking. Here is what has happened. A set of
sockets in a plastic 
  case was lain in the bottom drawer on top of some other
stuff , somehow in 
  shutting the drawers it slid and is setting vertical
behind something else. 
  Anyway the second drawer up will not shut and the bottom
is not asseble 
  because the second drawer up is being pulled out with this
plastic case. 
  We, myself and sighted wife have looked and can find no
latches to free the 
  drawer on top so we could pull it entirely out of the
cabinet and fix 
  things. Is there a hidden catch or am I going to have to
saw part of the 
  back out of the upper drawer so I can fish my hand down
into the other one.
  Ron 

  __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version
of virus signature database 3731 (20090101) __

  The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] tool cabinet

[Larry Stansifer]

Ron,

Feel down the outside surface of the drawer slide. You
should encounter a small spring loaded tab, if memory serves
the end of the tab closest to the front of the box can be
pried outboard with a common screwdriver, with this tab
released gently slide the track *not the drawer* inward as
if you were going to close the drawer. You will know if you
have it right if the tab stands out about 4mm from its
original position. Repeat the procedure on the other side
and the drawer should slide out into your hands.
I personally have never owned a Craftsman box however I used
to have an apprentice who went through your same dilemma a
couple of times a week.
I did finally make him a fix for that  problem so if this
occurs regularly let me know and I will post it for you or
any other Sears tool box owner.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ron
Yearns
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 8:05 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] tool cabinet


OK help.  I have a roll around Sears Craftsman  tool
cabinet.  Steel 4 
drawer locking.  Here is what has happened.  A set of
sockets in a plastic 
case was lain in the bottom drawer on top of some other
stuff , somehow in 
shutting the drawers it slid and is setting vertical behind
something else. 
Anyway the second drawer up will not shut and the bottom is
not asseble 
because the second drawer up is being pulled out with this
plastic case. 
We, myself and sighted wife have looked and can find no
latches to free the 
drawer on top so we could pull it entirely out of the
cabinet and fix 
things.  Is there a hidden catch or am I going to have to
saw part of the 
back out of the upper drawer so I can fish my hand down into
the other one. Ron 





Send any questions regarding list management to:
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E_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Christmas radios

[Larry Stansifer]

Now you guys know why it is life without parole...
Keep Smiling

Larry

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lenny
McHugh
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2008 7:39 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Christmas radios


Larry, you are correct. The radio posts evolved from how to
hook up an 
antenna, which was right on topic. I left it go hoping it
would die of 
natural causes. A few more posts and I would have ended it.
Now for the 
guide dog post it immediately started off topic it did not
evolve as did the 
radio posts.
- Original Message - 
From: "Larry Stansifer" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2008 8:32 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Christmas radios


A question from the corner where I am doing life without
parole... Unless we are building these "Christmas Radios,
how does this topic differ from the guide dog thread?

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of john
schwery
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2008 6:08 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Christmas radios


I have one and I like it.  Whether it is the best, I don't
know.

earlier, Spiro, wrote:

>I've heard their stuff is great too.
>
>On Mon, 29 Dec 2008, Bill Stephan wrote:
>
> > Spiro, in the perfect world, I'd have so much money I
could buy
> both radios, try them out then give away one, but that's
not
> possible. C Crane, I guess that's the CC you're asking
about is
> supposed to make some really nice stuff. I bought the
Grundig just
> because I'd heard good things about Grundig products.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bill Stephan,
> > Kansas City MO
> > Email:
<mailto:wstephan%40everestkc.net>wstep...@everestkc.net
> > Phone: (816)803-2469
> >
> > -original message-
> > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Christmas radios
> > From: Spiro
<<mailto:spiro%40iamspiro.com>sp...@iamspiro.com>
> > Date: 12/29/2008 07:58
> >
> > Do you guys find this better than the C.C.Radio?
> > I have a Sony 650 that beats that thing, in one room of
the house.
> > Elsewhere it's very good.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Thu, 25 Dec 2008, Ron Yearns wrote:
> >
> >> Will William, Santa was good to me the Eaton ,
Satellite 750 was
> under the tree for me. Yes it apppears it is going to be a
task to
> learn to operatee it well I am already impressed. I had
been
> listening to Carrolton, 100.7 FM and only one radio in the
house
> could get it . only upstairs and still had lots of problem
with
> intereference from a 101 FM station from Harrisonville.
This little
> jewel brings it in with no problem. And we hadn't even
found the
> pull out antenna yet. Also brings in the 1450 khz
Warrensburg
> station with very tgood clarity during the day. Now I can
keep up
> with the local news from where I moved from. It has a
rotating loop
> antenna on top for the AM to help in the turning. Good
luck with yours.
> >> Ron
> >> - Original Message -
> >> From: William Stephan
> >> To:
> >>
<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>blindhandy...@yahoog
roups.com
> >> Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 6:59 PM
> >> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Another Antenna question
> >>
> >>
> >> Nah, mine I think came from an outfit called Universal
Radio Ron,
> >> it's pretty nice, but some of it is still a mystery
until I can get
> somebody with
> >> eyes to look at the thing.
> >>
> >> I already accidentally reset the thing because I
guessed wrong
> >> about what side of the tuning nob the fast tuning
button was on,
> >> and now I have to recalibrate the A.M. band for US
spacing since it
> >> defaults to Eurpean.
> >>
> >> And, I can't do that until I figure out the keypad. Do
any of you
> >> have suggestions for reading buttons? I used a KNFB
reader, and it
> >> got some of them, but since the formatting's screwed
up, it's not
> >> very
> helpful. I tried
> >> an Optacon, but can't make sense of it that way either.
It sure
> >> would be nice if somebody'd make these things talk.
> >>
> >> -Original Message-
> >> From:
>
<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>blindhandy...@yahoog
roups.co
> m [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
> >> On Behalf Of Ron Yearns
> >> Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 16:41
> >> To:
> >>
<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>blindhand

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Christmas radios

[Larry Stansifer]

A question from the corner where I am doing life without
parole...
Unless we are building these "Christmas Radios, how does
this topic differ from the guide dog thread?

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of john
schwery
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2008 6:08 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Christmas radios


I have one and I like it.  Whether it is the best, I don't
know.

earlier, Spiro, wrote:

>I've heard their stuff is great too.
>
>On Mon, 29 Dec 2008, Bill Stephan wrote:
>
> > Spiro, in the perfect world, I'd have so much money I
could buy
> both radios, try them out then give away one, but that's
not
> possible. C Crane, I guess that's the CC you're asking
about is 
> supposed to make some really nice stuff. I bought the
Grundig just 
> because I'd heard good things about Grundig products.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bill Stephan,
> > Kansas City MO
> > Email:
wstep...@everestkc.net
> > Phone: (816)803-2469
> >
> > -original message-
> > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Christmas radios
> > From: Spiro
<sp...@iamspiro.com>
> > Date: 12/29/2008 07:58
> >
> > Do you guys find this better than the C.C.Radio?
> > I have a Sony 650 that beats that thing, in one room of
the house. 
> > Elsewhere it's very good.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Thu, 25 Dec 2008, Ron Yearns wrote:
> >
> >> Will William, Santa was good to me the Eaton ,
Satellite 750 was
> under the tree for me. Yes it apppears it is going to be a
task to
> learn to operatee it well I am already impressed. I had
been 
> listening to Carrolton, 100.7 FM and only one radio in the
house 
> could get it . only upstairs and still had lots of problem
with 
> intereference from a 101 FM station from Harrisonville.
This little 
> jewel brings it in with no problem. And we hadn't even
found the 
> pull out antenna yet. Also brings in the 1450 khz
Warrensburg 
> station with very tgood clarity during the day. Now I can
keep up 
> with the local news from where I moved from. It has a
rotating loop 
> antenna on top for the AM to help in the turning. Good
luck with yours.
> >> Ron
> >> - Original Message -
> >> From: William Stephan
> >> To: 
> >>
blindhandy...@yahoog
roups.com
> >> Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 6:59 PM
> >> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Another Antenna question
> >>
> >>
> >> Nah, mine I think came from an outfit called Universal
Radio Ron, 
> >> it's pretty nice, but some of it is still a mystery
until I can get
> somebody with
> >> eyes to look at the thing.
> >>
> >> I already accidentally reset the thing because I
guessed wrong 
> >> about what side of the tuning nob the fast tuning
button was on, 
> >> and now I have to recalibrate the A.M. band for US
spacing since it 
> >> defaults to Eurpean.
> >>
> >> And, I can't do that until I figure out the keypad. Do
any of you 
> >> have suggestions for reading buttons? I used a KNFB
reader, and it 
> >> got some of them, but since the formatting's screwed
up, it's not 
> >> very
> helpful. I tried
> >> an Optacon, but can't make sense of it that way either.
It sure 
> >> would be nice if somebody'd make these things talk.
> >>
> >> -Original Message-
> >> From:
>
blindhandy...@yahoog
roups.co
> m [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
> >> On Behalf Of Ron Yearns
> >> Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 16:41
> >> To: 
> >>
blindhandy...@yahoog
roups.com
> >> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Another Antenna question
> >>
> >> Ah so you are the lucky guy that got the 750 from
Associated
> Radio. I looked
> >> at one a few weeks ago and called, but it had sold. Of
course he 
> >> can get another. Hope Santa has gotten the hint. For
your antenna I 
> >> don't know for sure I think either will do for the
listening side 
> >> of radio.
> There is a skin
> >> effect at various frequencies. It is more pronouced at
the higher 
> >> one goes and this has a affect on current flow and if
so stranded 
> >> would
> be the better
> >> choice. Happy listening.
> >> Ron
> >> - Original Message -
> >> From: William Stephan
> >> To: blindhandyman@

> yahoogroups.com
> >> Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 1:53 PM
> >> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Another Antenna question
> >>
> >> All:
> >>
> >> The receiver I recently purchased, which is a Grundig
Satellit
> 750, seems to
> >> be mostly accessible. I'm going to ultimately have to
get some 
> >> sighted assistance to figure out the keyboard, but it
looks doable. 
> >> So, I'm going to run some long wire antennas, and was
wondering 
> >> what kind of
> wire I should
> >> be using. I have a roll of speaker wire I could split,
but I seem 
> >> to remember that braded wire is best. Anybody know if
that's right?
> >>
> >> Thanks in advanc

RE: [SPAM] Re: [BlindHandyMan] Guide Dogs

[Larry Stansifer]

I'm already in the corner so it doesn't matter.
I am on German Shepherd #5. We have been working together
since NOV. of 05.



-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alex
Stone
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 4:21 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [SPAM] Re: [BlindHandyMan] Guide Dogs


Bob, Before we get kicked off, I've had my first dog for
about a month now, and I'm absolutely loving it!

Cheers

Alex

 

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: 30 December 2008 10:47
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [BlindHandyMan] Guide Dogs

 

I'm also on my 3rd Seeing Eye dog. My first was killed in a
hit and run, my second I held while he was put to sleep at
14. But I'm sure we need to move this off the list or we'll
get sent to the corner...
- Original Message - 
From: Terry Klarich 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com

; Dale Leavens 
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 12:19 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Guide Dogs

Marley and Me:

This is definately off topic. Hopefully you all will forgive
me.

My family and I went to see Marley and I. This was a very
touching movie. I have had Guide Dogs for about 20 or more
years now. I understand about the loyalty and love a dog
will give to those he or she considers to be their pack
mates or master. When my Daughters were little, we had a
family pet German Sherpherd named Keysha. She would always
wanted to be near my Daughters when they were playing. She
would make sure they stayed in the yard. As far as Keysha
was concerned my Daughter were her pups. When I had to
discipline my Girls, Keysha would take their side.

I have had to put 2 Guide Dogs down so far. My retired Guide
Karo, who is a solid black German Shepherd, is getting up
there. I know soon, it will be her time as well.

That was a very touching movie. I would highly recommend it
for those who know and love dogs. It is easy to follow just
from the audio track. I didn't have to ask what was going on
even once.

Terry

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
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E_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions
>From Various List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Re: holidays

[Larry Stansifer]

I  had to get up and unlock the shop because the old guy
couldn't get my plasma cutter or Carol's Harley down the
chimney we don't have.
You guys have a fun one.

Larry

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Kennedy
Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 4:00 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: holidays


Same to you  Tom. From here in North Carolina where it is 6
in the morning and almost 60 degrees out!  I had to give
Santa's dune buggy a jump start last night.  He can't bring
the deer this far South, they could end up on a mantle
somewhere...


  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 12:38 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Re: holidays


  Iwish all of you a grand holiday season and a fabulous new
year.

  Tom Fowle
  Near San Francisco where it maybe gets down to the high
30s some times and
  hasn't rained enough yet.


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Snow Blowers, Outside Electrical Cords, Remote Car Starters, Trickle Chargers, Ice Melt, Furnaces That Can't Keep Up, Etc.

[Larry Stansifer]

I love it in the Southwest. Ya it gets a bit warm in the
summer however that is why GOD made decks, barbecues and
cold beer.
I grew up in Montana and even the government can't print
money fast enough to get me back to the snow.

BTW it is 51 degrees and cloudy this morning.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lenny
McHugh
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 8:41 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Snow Blowers, Outside
Electrical Cords, Remote Car Starters, Trickle Chargers, Ice
Melt, Furnaces That Can't Keep Up, Etc.


We would then have to learn to handle air conditioning  and
maybe fire ants 
problems. So to quote Spoc the list would "live long and
prosper".
- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Hodges" 
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 10:24 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Snow Blowers, Outside Electrical
Cords, Remote Car 
Starters, Trickle Chargers, Ice Melt, Furnaces That Can't
Keep Up, Etc.


Move south!!!



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Saw Dust Alert

[Larry Stansifer]

It doesn't have to be pretty. I am building a frame out of
2x8's to hole a motor and I just need to know if when the
saw shoe is parallel to the work do the teeth point down at
the top of the board or do they point up toward the bottom
of the board.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Kennedy
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2008 6:48 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Saw Dust Alert


I almost hesitate to ell you because I fear for your
property.  If you promise not to let Carol know I told you,
a circular saw cuts from the bottom of the wood to the top.
So always put the good side down and cut that way.  

Your saw is the one with the blade on the left side so as
you are facing the blade it will spin clockwise.  So put the
blade on so the teeth grab your fingers when turning the
blade in your hand.  If your fingers bounce off the teeth,
turn the blade over and it will be right.  Also keep in mind
it is a backward thread so it goes right to loosen.  

If none of this makes sense, you'll know if it's right when
you make the first cut.  It will either chatter like crazy
or chew right through the wood.

Good luck and be careful!

And if you get good at it, make us some new chairs or the
corner...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2008 7:42 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Saw Dust Alert


  OK OK OK,

  I freely admit to being a wood idiot so please no laughing
  at the following:
  After more than a year of my circ saw sitting in its case
  with a composite metal cutting blade installed I went to
  re-install a wood cutting blade to do a small job and I
  can't remember how the wood cutting blade installs, do the
  teeth point up or down.
  Enough laughing, giggling and chuckling just let me know
and
  I will return to the corner with the beer cooler.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Saw Dust Alert

[Larry Stansifer]

Jim,

I am probably not being clear with my question, with the saw
shoe sitting flat on the work and the blade ready to cut, do
the teeth that are parallel to the saw shoe point down at
the work from the top or do they point up at the work from
the bottom?

TNX

Larry

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of cheetah
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2008 6:06 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Saw Dust Alert


hi Larry
the easiest way to describe it is the tooth on the bottom of
the blade the flat edge is pointing towards the front of the
saw. so as the blade spins it will come up towards the front
trying to push the saw back towards you. Jim


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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[BlindHandyMan] Saw Dust Alert

[Larry Stansifer]

OK OK OK,
 
I freely admit to being a wood idiot so please no laughing
at the following:
After more than a year of my circ saw sitting in its case
with a composite metal cutting blade installed I went to
re-install a wood cutting blade to do a small job and I
can't remember how the wood cutting blade installs, do the
teeth point up or down.
Enough laughing, giggling and chuckling just let me know and
I will return to the corner with the beer cooler.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] purchase air nail gun

[Larry Stansifer]

And for those of us who are saw dust impaired there is the
perennial favorite the 4lb sledge that can do anything.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan
Rossi
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 7:28 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] purchase air nail gun


I fully agree with Bob.  I have collected a few different
nailers, 
including a stapler / brad nailer, a finishing nail gun, a
joist hanger 
nailer, and the palm nailer.  The palm nailer is the most
versatile of all 
of them.  It is loud as hell though, sounds like a machine
gun but drives 
nails quickly.  Bends the hell out of them as well if you
get a bad angle 
on them.

The palm nailer I have is pretty small so it is easy to get
into tight 
places with it.  The guns, accept for the joist nailer, tend
to be a bit 
bigger.

Hope that helps.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] antifreeze leak fixed

[Larry Stansifer]

Lenny,
I don't know what it would be on your van but on the late
model Corvettes there is an aluminum tube that is taper
fitted into the pump and flange bolted to the block in front
of #1 cylinder. If memory serves it provides a hot-water
by-pass to the heater-core.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lenny
McHugh
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 6:42 PM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] antifreeze leak fixed


Well they replaced the water pump this morning. On the parts
list there was 
a tube listed, The part list was pump wtr, gasket,,
antifreeze and tube wtr. 
Ok you car guys what is this tube.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational
and humorous 
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
Lenny




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] antifreeze leak

[Larry Stansifer]

Carol just bought a new 3500 4-door Dodge Diesel and it does
exactly the same thing. The service manager told us that it
is the cheap sleazy tires the factory installs. I rode in
the bed with a stethoscope stuck to the fender wells and
because I can't come up with a better answer I would have to
agree with him. Sitting in the cab it almost sounds like
surround sound.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob
Kennedy
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 5:48 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] antifreeze leak


Have to listen to which end of the engine the noise is
coming from.  All the belts are on the passenger side and
the transmission is on the driver side.  

It could be the power steering pump if it sounds like the
transmission noise.  They sound similar.  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Don 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 7:37 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] antifreeze leak


  Our 05 caravan, is making a wining sound, only when it is
kind of cold, hear it when you are nearly stopped, like when
the transmission goes in to low gear. you hear again when
you take off, strange, after every thing is hot, it quits.
something probably getting ready to go out. Don
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 6:31 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] antifreeze leak

  I just did a serpentine belt on a 07 Caravan this weekend
  for my banana bread connection and that damn thing was a
  royal pain.
  I worked on that stupid stocker for 2.5 hours and had to
  build a special tool to release the belt tensioner. It's a
  good thing this 78 year old specializes in banana nut
bread
  because she could have never afforded me otherwise.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob
  Kennedy
  Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 4:06 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] antifreeze leak

  It's a big job, the timing belt has to come off to get to
  the water pump. 
  Usually there is a sign of some sort to tell if the pump
is
  getting ready to 
  die. A special noise they make, or some dripping. Not
  likely the 
  dealership pumped it up to 30 pounds and blew the seal
  around the pump 
  shaft.

  Remember part of that price is that high dollar anti
freeze
  too.
  - Original Message - 
  From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: "handyman-blind" 
  Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 5:10 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] antifreeze leak

  > Just got a ride home from the car dealership. A few
months
  ago I had 
  > the coolant changed. The other day I turned the rear
heat
  on in the 
  > van and shortly after there was no heat in the front.
The
  temp gage in 
  > the van stayed at the normal position. I assumed that
  there was an air 
  > lock in the rear heater that caused the fluid level to
  drop. When 
  > Karen came home from a Dr. appointment I noticed that
the
  was little 
  > heat coming out from under the hood. I waited about two
  hours until 
  > everything was cold to open the radiator cap.
  > Karen could not see anything in the radiator.
  > We quickly drove it to the dealer so they could add some
  of that Mopar 
  > Red.
  > Before they did that they pressure tested the system and
  all of the
  > remaining antifreeze is on the shop floor. It blew out
  around the water
  > pump.
  > I don't understand why there was never a wet spot where
  she parks or that 
  > I
  > never smelled coolant when the motor was hot and we
pulled
  into a parking
  > lot.
  > This is the first water pump I have replaced in over 25
  years, was shocked
  > at the $390 estimate.
  > ---
  > Please visit my home page; it is motivational,
  inspirational and humorous
  > with many resources for the blind.
  > http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
  > Lenny
  >
  >
  > 
  >
  > Send any questions regarding list management to: 
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > To listen to the show archives go to link 
  >
 
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAG
  E_user_op=
  > view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
  > Or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. 
  >
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  >
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  Contributions From 
  > Various
  > List Members At The Following address:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
  >
  > Visit the archives page at the following address 
  >
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindha

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat

[Larry Stansifer]

It burns cooler but basically with no visible flame.
The way one of the safety safari guys explained it to me is:
You don't see the actual flame just the heat shimmer created
between the temperature of the flame and the air temp."
The warmer the air temp the less visible the flame. Back in
the day when I used to wear a grizzly Adams beard I had a
top alcohol car throw up all over me and because it was a 95
degree day nobody could figure out why I was off rolling on
the ground. Lost all of my fur and looked like I had a bad
sun-burn for about a month.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of 
Bob Kennedy
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 5:43 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a
bat


You'd have the advantage if it were for the alcohol classes.
Can't see methanol burning anyway.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 7:20 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a
bat


  The co-2 extinguishers will also work well for freezing
  ground hornet nests.

  About two years ago I went through a fire suppression
course
  and the fire department had a large round metal pan that
  they would partially fill with water and pore gasoline
over
  the surface. They would ignite the fuel and I got to nock
  down the resulting fire. 
  Pretty strait foreword if you don't let the fire rattle
you.
  I also read where NHRA does fire simulation training for
the
  top fuel and top alcohol dragsters and funny car drivers.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob
  Kennedy
  Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 4:35 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a
  bat

  I've done that pouter trick too I just figured I was the
  only one and didn't want a bunch of extra emails coming in
  telling me I was crazy or sick. That's never been in
  question...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bill Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 6:21 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a
  bat

  I used one of the dry powder extinguishers 
  on a guy who was going to hold up a store I ran once when
  I was younger, and it really changed his mind in a hurry.
We
  also used to recommend using the Co2 type for getting tyle
  or carpet glue off concrete floors, it freezes and sort of
  chips off sometimes.

  Bill Stephan, 
  Kansas City MO 
  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Phone: (816)803-2469

  -original message-
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a
  bat
  From: Bob Kennedy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  Date: 12/01/2008 15:27

  I've had to do this before under what could be called real
  shop situations... CO2 extinguishers are good for bringing
  the temp of oil or grease fires down as long as you
feather
  the trigger when squeezing it. Full force you can spread
the
  fire farther. And remember not to get your fingers or hand
  in front of the tube as you spray it. That is nasty cold
  stuff and it will do some serious damage to you if you
blast
  your skin.

  I've seen a fire company use it to kill a snake before, so
  it's good for more than fires...

  If you use dry chemical, it will put out a cloud too and
  it will make breathing very rough for a while. But losing
a
  house or shop is even worse than breathing trouble. I've
  lost one to fire before but an extinguisher wouldn't have
  helped at all in that case.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindHandyMan 
  Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 3:23 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat

  Hi all.
  this may be old hat to some of you experienced folks, but
  I found the
  following interesting.

  I'd always wanted to really try using an extinguisher on a
  "real" fire. I
  wanted to have some idea if I might stand a chance of
  doing usefull fire
  fighting if i drop my soldering iron on a pile of paper or
  some such. 

  However I didn't want to set up a test without
  professional help just in
  case things should get out of hand.

  I found that a niece's new boy friend is a professional
  fire fighter. When
  I met Joe last year, almost the first thing I asked him
  after a little 
  introductory chatter was whether he might set up a test
  fire somewhere and 
  suggest an extinguisher for me to try.

  This was a year ago and I' hadn't seen Joe since.

  This thanksgiving, we went to my brother's 5 acre place in
  the country and
  Joe was there. I hadn't mentioned my request over the year
  and figured if
  he was interested, he'd bring it up. I wasn't going to ask
  again

RE: [BlindHandyMan] antifreeze leak

[Larry Stansifer]

What kind of tires are you running and what is their
condition?


-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 5:38 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] antifreeze leak


Our 05 caravan, is making a wining sound,  only when it is
kind of cold, hear it when you are nearly stopped, like when
the transmission goes in to low gear. you hear again when
you take off, strange, after every thing is hot, it quits.
something probably getting ready to go out.  Don
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 6:31 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] antifreeze leak


  I just did a serpentine belt on a 07 Caravan this weekend
  for my banana bread connection and that damn thing was a
  royal pain.
  I worked on that stupid stocker for 2.5 hours and had to
  build a special tool to release the belt tensioner. It's a
  good thing this 78 year old specializes in banana nut
bread
  because she could have never afforded me otherwise.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob
  Kennedy
  Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 4:06 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] antifreeze leak

  It's a big job, the timing belt has to come off to get to
  the water pump. 
  Usually there is a sign of some sort to tell if the pump
is
  getting ready to 
  die. A special noise they make, or some dripping. Not
  likely the 
  dealership pumped it up to 30 pounds and blew the seal
  around the pump 
  shaft.

  Remember part of that price is that high dollar anti
freeze
  too.
  - Original Message - 
  From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: "handyman-blind" 
  Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 5:10 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] antifreeze leak

  > Just got a ride home from the car dealership. A few
months
  ago I had 
  > the coolant changed. The other day I turned the rear
heat
  on in the 
  > van and shortly after there was no heat in the front.
The
  temp gage in 
  > the van stayed at the normal position. I assumed that
  there was an air 
  > lock in the rear heater that caused the fluid level to
  drop. When 
  > Karen came home from a Dr. appointment I noticed that
the
  was little 
  > heat coming out from under the hood. I waited about two
  hours until 
  > everything was cold to open the radiator cap.
  > Karen could not see anything in the radiator.
  > We quickly drove it to the dealer so they could add some
  of that Mopar 
  > Red.
  > Before they did that they pressure tested the system and
  all of the
  > remaining antifreeze is on the shop floor. It blew out
  around the water
  > pump.
  > I don't understand why there was never a wet spot where
  she parks or that 
  > I
  > never smelled coolant when the motor was hot and we
pulled
  into a parking
  > lot.
  > This is the first water pump I have replaced in over 25
  years, was shocked
  > at the $390 estimate.
  > ---
  > Please visit my home page; it is motivational,
  inspirational and humorous
  > with many resources for the blind.
  > http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
  > Lenny
  >
  >
  > 
  >
  > Send any questions regarding list management to: 
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > To listen to the show archives go to link 
  >
 
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAG
  E_user_op=
  > view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
  > Or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. 
  >
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  >
  > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review
  Contributions From 
  > Various
  > List Members At The Following address:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
  >
  > Visit the archives page at the following address 
  >
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  >
  > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then
visit
  the 
  > following
  > address for more information:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/
  > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the
  Blind Handy Man 
  > list just send a blank message to:
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links
  >
  >
  >
  > 

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To listen to the show archives go to link
 
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAG
  E_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
  Or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast addr

RE: [BlindHandyMan] antifreeze leak

[Larry Stansifer]

I just did a serpentine belt on a 07 Caravan this weekend
for my banana bread connection and that damn thing was a
royal pain.
I worked on that stupid stocker for 2.5 hours and had to
build a special tool to release the belt tensioner. It's a
good thing this 78 year old specializes in banana nut bread
because she could have never afforded me otherwise.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob
Kennedy
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 4:06 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] antifreeze leak


It's a big job, the timing belt has to come off to get to
the water pump. 
Usually there is a sign of some sort to tell if the pump is
getting ready to 
die.  A special noise they make, or some dripping.  Not
likely the 
dealership pumped it up to 30 pounds and blew the seal
around the pump 
shaft.

Remember part of that price is that high dollar anti freeze
too.
- Original Message - 
From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "handyman-blind" 
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 5:10 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] antifreeze leak


> Just got a ride home from the car dealership. A few months
ago I had 
> the coolant changed. The other day I turned the rear heat
on in the 
> van and shortly after there was no heat in the front. The
temp gage in 
> the van stayed at the normal position. I assumed that
there was an air 
> lock in the rear heater that caused the fluid level to
drop. When 
> Karen came home from a Dr. appointment I noticed that the
was little 
> heat coming out from under the hood. I waited about two
hours until 
> everything was cold to open the radiator cap.
> Karen could not see anything in the radiator.
> We quickly drove it to the dealer so they could add some
of that Mopar 
> Red.
> Before they did that they pressure tested the system and
all of the
> remaining antifreeze is on the shop floor. It blew out
around the water
> pump.
> I don't understand why there was never a wet spot where
she parks or that 
> I
> never smelled coolant when the motor was hot and we pulled
into a parking
> lot.
> This is the first water pump I have replaced in over 25
years, was shocked
> at the $390 estimate.
> ---
> Please visit my home page; it is motivational,
inspirational and humorous
> with many resources for the blind.
> http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
> Lenny
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to: 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To listen to the show archives go to link 
>
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAG
E_user_op=
> view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. 
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review
Contributions From 
> Various
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address 
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit
the 
> following
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the
Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links
>
>
>
> 





Send any questions regarding list management to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAG
E_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions
>From Various List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit
the following address for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email
commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a
blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Groups Links





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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat

[Larry Stansifer]

The co-2 extinguishers will also work well for freezing
ground hornet nests.

About two years ago I went through a fire suppression course
and the fire department had a large round metal pan that
they would partially fill with water and pore gasoline over
the surface. They would ignite the fuel and I got to nock
down the resulting fire. 
Pretty strait foreword if you don't let the fire rattle you.
I also read where NHRA does fire simulation training for the
top fuel and top alcohol dragsters and funny car drivers.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob
Kennedy
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 4:35 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a
bat


I've done that pouter trick too I just figured I was the
only one and didn't want a bunch of extra emails coming in
telling me I was crazy or sick.  That's never been in
question...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bill Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 6:21 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a
bat


  I used one of the dry powder extinguishers 
  on a guy who was going to hold up a store I ran once when
I was younger, and it really changed his mind in a hurry. We
also used to recommend using the Co2 type for getting tyle
or carpet glue off concrete floors, it freezes and sort of
chips off sometimes.

  Bill Stephan, 
  Kansas City MO 
  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Phone: (816)803-2469

  -original message-
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a
bat
  From: Bob Kennedy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  Date: 12/01/2008 15:27

  I've had to do this before under what could be called real
shop situations... CO2 extinguishers are good for bringing
the temp of oil or grease fires down as long as you feather
the trigger when squeezing it. Full force you can spread the
fire farther. And remember not to get your fingers or hand
in front of the tube as you spray it. That is nasty cold
stuff and it will do some serious damage to you if you blast
your skin.

  I've seen a fire company use it to kill a snake before, so
it's good for more than fires...

  If you use dry chemical, it will put out a cloud too and
it will make breathing very rough for a while. But losing a
house or shop is even worse than breathing trouble. I've
lost one to fire before but an extinguisher wouldn't have
helped at all in that case.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindHandyMan 
  Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 3:23 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat

  Hi all.
  this may be old hat to some of you experienced folks, but
I found the
  following interesting.

  I'd always wanted to really try using an extinguisher on a
"real" fire. I
  wanted to have some idea if I might stand a chance of
doing usefull fire
  fighting if i drop my soldering iron on a pile of paper or
some such. 

  However I didn't want to set up a test without
professional help just in
  case things should get out of hand.

  I found that a niece's new boy friend is a professional
fire fighter. When
  I met Joe last year, almost the first thing I asked him
after a little 
  introductory chatter was whether he might set up a test
fire somewhere and 
  suggest an extinguisher for me to try.

  This was a year ago and I' hadn't seen Joe since.

  This thanksgiving, we went to my brother's 5 acre place in
the country and
  Joe was there. I hadn't mentioned my request over the year
and figured if
  he was interested, he'd bring it up. I wasn't going to ask
again.

  Almost the first thing i heard was " Tom I've got an
extinguisher for you."

  So, Friday afternoon, we went out to the middle of a
gravel coverred area
  and Joe got hold of an old cardboard box and a heap of
waiste paper. He
  really wanted to add a mix of gasoline and diesel, but
everyone else thought
  that was going a bit far.

  He had an out of date "dry chemical" extinguisher, the
type with a pair of
  handles you squeeze together and a 1 foot hose you aim at
the fire.

  After the fire was going well enough I could readilly feel
it from a few
  feet away, I held the extinguisher in my left hand, and
followed his
  instructions.

  they suggest a memory trick using "PASS"
  Pull, Aim, Squeeze Sweep.

  Pull, means pull the safety pin, a rod with a circular
ring at one end that
  goes through the top handle of the extinguisher and keeps
it from being
  squeezed down when not in use.

  Aim, of course means take the end of the little hose and
aim it at the base
  of the fire.

  Squeeze, press the two handles together.

  Sweep, means sweep the stream of chemical back and forth
across the fire.

  My experience suggests that moving in a flattened oval so
the stream moves
  "up and down" a bit as well as across where you think the
fire is, may be a
  good bet if you can't see the flames at all.

  Not surprising

RE: [BlindHandyMan] A lesson on compression fittings

[Larry Stansifer]

I used one of those puppies on a cracked trans cooling line running from the
trans cooler to the high pressure side. I installed one of those compression
fitting things strictly as an emergency get us home repair that lasted for
at least the two years the car's owner and I were dating.
Word to the wise... Never take a Pontiac trans AM off road to look for a
camp site.
I had a tubing cutter in my run-box and we found a good Samaritan to take me
into the nearest town for peaces.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 9:10 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A lesson on compression fittings


On water pipe all you need to do is cut the end smooth and make sure there
are no burs.  Take a piece of emery cloth and polish the pipe slightly to
make sure it's clean.  Then slide the nut and compression ferrule on the
pipe.  The pipe will then fit inside the elbow or T or shut off and bottom
out.  Once it bottoms out, put on your wrench or vice grip or what ever you
want to hold the thing still.  Then sliding the nut toward the threads will
move the ferrule into place as well.  I like to use some pipe dope on the
threads and get the threads started by hand.  All that is left once it is
hand tight is to hold the fitting and tighten the nut.  It doesn't take lots
of effort or you run the risk of collapsing the pipe.  

The only thing to be real sure of is that the end of the pipe fits inside
the fitting or you will collapse or crush the end and it won't seal.  I
suspect this is what causes those that complain about compression fittings
to complain.  When done right, it will compress the pipe slightly under the
ferrule leaving the quarter inch or so of the end the same size it was when
you started.  

I've only used one of the Shark Bights and I feel a lot more secure using a
compression fitting.  


  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 8:54 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors


  Bob,

  Are you using a double flair male end on copper water pipe?
  How in the world do you seat it?
  are you using those male and female fittings the screw together with the
  little farrel thingy that if you are real lucky collapses and seals the
  joint?

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 4:29 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  No I've used them since my days in the automotive field. I'm pretty sure
if
  you can put a fitting in place that seals against brake fluid pressure
you'd
  have nothing to worry about with 90 or so pounds of water pressure. 

  However, the average want to be handy person that doesn't even own a
wrench
  is going to look at working 2 wrenches together as very challenging
compared
  to "Just slide the 2 ends together." Markets are driven by what sells, not
  what works better. And far be it from most sales people to tell you which
  is better. In this case far be it from most sales people to even know if
  they work because most don't do the type of work they are selling parts to
  fix...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Alan & Terrie Robbins 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 6:22 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  Bob,

  That is interesting. I never found where compression fittings were all
  that
  difficult to work with, did you?

  Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 9:38 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  I'm a big fan of compression fittings but they told me at Lowes and Home
  depot that they are selling less of them due to the new shark bites.
  Because
  they are tried and trusted I much prefer the compressions but everyone
  seems
  to want something that is easier to work with.
  - Original Message -
  From: Dale Leavens
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:37 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  They are more expensive but if you want to be really secure I'd go with
  compression fittings. You can remove them should you need to and you can
  always buy replacement ferrules for pennies if damaged when removing or
  otherwise handling the fittings. They are fairly expensive but usually you
  don't use many. These days you can usually even buy fittings like shut-off
  valves and stop cocks which attach by compression fitting. They are very
  secure 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

[Larry Stansifer]

Bob,

Are you using a double flair male end on copper water pipe?
How in the world do you seat it?
are you using those male and female fittings the screw together with the
little farrel thingy that if you are real lucky collapses and seals  the
joint?

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 4:29 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors


No I've used them since my days in the automotive field.  I'm pretty sure if
you can put a fitting in place that seals against brake fluid pressure you'd
have nothing to worry about with 90 or so pounds of water pressure.  

However, the average want to be handy person that doesn't even own a wrench
is going to look at working 2 wrenches together as very challenging compared
to "Just slide the 2 ends together."  Markets are driven by what sells, not
what works better.  And far be it from most sales people to tell you which
is better.  In this case far be it from most sales people to even know if
they work because most don't do the type of work they are selling parts to
fix...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Alan & Terrie Robbins 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 6:22 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors


  Bob,

  That is interesting. I never found where compression fittings were all
that
  difficult to work with, did you?

  Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 9:38 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  I'm a big fan of compression fittings but they told me at Lowes and Home
  depot that they are selling less of them due to the new shark bites.
Because
  they are tried and trusted I much prefer the compressions but everyone
seems
  to want something that is easier to work with.
  - Original Message -
  From: Dale Leavens
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:37 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  They are more expensive but if you want to be really secure I'd go with
  compression fittings. You can remove them should you need to and you can
  always buy replacement ferrules for pennies if damaged when removing or
  otherwise handling the fittings. They are fairly expensive but usually you
  don't use many. These days you can usually even buy fittings like shut-off
  valves and stop cocks which attach by compression fitting. They are very
  secure and really very forgiving. I haven't used the 'T' or elbow fittings
  but now I really like the stop cocks.

  - Original Message -
  From: Tom Hodges
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:18 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  Bob,

  Thank you so much for the information. I will research this on the
  Internet
  to find out if they have other fittings, such as T's, elbows, etc. This
  could sure save me a lot of time and expense (not to mention headache) if
  they work well.

  Tom

  _

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 10:07 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors

  I've used both the Shark Bights and the Gator bight or Gator grip, can't
  remember the right name for that one. One is from Lowes and the other from
  Home Depot.

  You do have to support them and I had the hardest time believing they
  would
  actually seal. But they do, and work great.

  All you do is take 2 ends of copper you want to join, clean the burs off,
  and slide them together. If you remember those Chinese handcuffs we all
  had
  as kids? Your fingers went in really easy but the harder you pulled to get
  them apart the more it bit into your fingers.

  Just slide the piece on 1 of the ends and then put the piece over the
  other
  pipe. Pull the pipes towards each other and your done. It takes a special
  tool to get them back apart. The tools come in a pack of 3 for about 2
  dollars so you know it isn't much. It's a plastic piece cut to fit in the
  slot on the Shark Bight and you just pull it towards the pipe and it opens
  back up. Don't know if you can reuse it after taking it back apart. I was
  a
  chicken once it came back apart and just put on a new one. I can tell you
  it
  takes no special skills and compared to running a torch inside a wall,
  there
  is a lot less to worry about too.

  Both stores have them in the plumbing area and I'm not remembering the
  price
  right now. Seems to me it was between 3 and 4 dollars. Well worth it if
  you
  aren't comfortable soldering.

  [Non-text portions of this message hav

RE: [BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze

[Larry Stansifer]

I am familiar with the radiator flush machines, it was the part about
restabilizing the coolant that threw me.
I will have a look at that web site just for shiggles.

TNX

Larry

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Michael Baldwin
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 8:39 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze


Well, it has been a few years, about 14-15 if i am counting right. First I
had to install a T in one of the heater hoses, I do not recall which one.
But just using some needle nose vice grips to pinch the hose on either side
of the cut, you only lose a few oz of coolant. The filter system connected
to that t, then there is an adapter to connect the other line of the filter
system to the radiator, or expansion tank, where ever the pressure cap was.
Started the engine, and let it warm up, and then turned the heater on high.
I think the filter system connected to compressed air to run the pump, but
just turned on the pump, and it siphoned some of the coolant off, filtered
it, and returned it to the engine.  Kind of like a by-pass filter system.
The filter system had a little valve you could open to put a little coolant
in a cup to do your ph test and such. What I used was like this
http://www.asedeals.com/antifreeze_recycler.html
but not as fancy, you know how things change over the years. The one I used
just did the filtering, not the draining or re-filling. Michael
 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Larry Stansifer
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 8:34 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze



H,
I have never heard of this system being used in the industry but it has been
a long time since I pulled a wrench in anger. How exactly does it hook up?
does it have its own onboard circulation pump or do you run the motor to
circulate the coolant through the filtration system?

TNX

Larry

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Michael Baldwin
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 7:19 AM
To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze

Some shop do not even drain it, they run it through a filter system for
about 15 minutes, and add anti_freeze as needed to top off the system, and
other chemicals to get the ph right. I used this system in shop class, and
it was pretty slick, no where near as messy. Michael

_ 

From: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Larry
Stansifer
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 3:17 PM
To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze

Mark,

This is probably a better question for Bob but here is my two cents worth
from the corner.

The only way that you can drain that system is by removing the lower
radiator hose and stand by for the inevitable shower. There should be some
kind of a filler type cap or fitting on the top of the radiator core however
it will in no way resemble the RAD caps we are used to. Now instead of
having a traditional upper tank and pressure cap on the radiator there is an
expansion or overflow tank. When an engine overheats the coolant is forced
up a hose into this tank rather than running out on the ground. Finally
there should be a fitting on top of the thermostat housing to purge the air.
Honestly my friend I would probably take it to a trusted technician because
now days you can get hung for not disposing of coolant in the government
approved manner. Secondly pulling the hose doesn't always get all of the old
coolant out of the motor and finally if you don't get all of the air out of
the system it can create an air-lock that could cost you a motor. The
current state of the industry is to suction the old coolant out of the
system, replace the thermostat and refill with fresh coolant. I have done
this job using the lower hose and bucket routine but it is no fun and I do
not recommend it.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of mark
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 10:56 AM
To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze

hey gang
got a 2002 chevy venture van
and need to change the antifreeze 
did not find a petcot valve to drain the antifreeze that i

RE: [BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze

[Larry Stansifer]

H,
I have never heard of this system being used in the industry but it has been
a long time since I pulled a wrench in anger. How exactly does it hook up?
does it have its own onboard circulation pump or do you run the motor to
circulate the coolant through the filtration system?

TNX

Larry


-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Michael Baldwin
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 7:19 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze


Some shop do not even drain it, they run it through a filter system for
about 15 minutes, and add anti_freeze as needed to top off the system, and
other chemicals to get the ph right. I used this system in shop class, and
it was pretty slick, no where near as messy. Michael


  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Larry Stansifer
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 3:17 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze



Mark,

This is probably a better question for Bob but here is my two cents worth
from the corner.

The only way that you can drain that system is by removing the lower
radiator hose and stand by for the inevitable shower. There should be some
kind of a filler type cap or fitting on the top of the radiator core however
it will in no way resemble the RAD caps we are used to. Now instead of
having a traditional upper tank and pressure cap on the radiator there is an
expansion or overflow tank. When an engine overheats the coolant is forced
up a hose into this tank rather than running out on the ground. Finally
there should be a fitting on top of the thermostat housing to purge the air.
Honestly my friend I would probably take it to a trusted technician because
now days you can get hung for not disposing of coolant in the government
approved manner. Secondly pulling the hose doesn't always get all of the old
coolant out of the motor and finally if you don't get all of the air out of
the system it can create an air-lock that could cost you a motor. The
current state of the industry is to suction the old coolant out of the
system, replace the thermostat and refill with fresh coolant. I have done
this job using the lower hose and bucket routine but it is no fun and I do
not recommend it.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of mark
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 10:56 AM
To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze

hey gang
got a 2002 chevy venture van
and need to change the antifreeze 
did not find a petcot valve to drain the antifreeze that is in the system
can anyone shed some light where this is located 
and seems like the radiator cap is not on top of the radiator so how do i
refill with the fressh antifreeze the next thing is where is the bleeder
valves located to purge the air out of this thing thanks alot any help would
be great it is getting alittle cold up here in n. e. pa. and do not want to
freeze the block thanks again

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Send any questions regarding list management to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Send any questions re

RE: [BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze

[Larry Stansifer]

Mark,

This is probably a better question for Bob but here is my two cents worth
from the corner.

The only way that you can drain that system is by removing the lower
radiator hose and stand by for the inevitable shower. There should be some
kind of a filler type cap or fitting on the top of the radiator core however
it will in no way resemble the RAD caps we are used to. Now instead of
having a traditional upper tank and pressure cap on the radiator there is an
expansion or overflow tank. When an engine overheats the coolant is forced
up a hose into this tank rather than running out on the ground. Finally
there should be a fitting on top of the thermostat housing to purge the air.
Honestly my friend I would probably take it to a trusted technician because
now days you can get hung for not disposing of coolant in the government
approved manner. Secondly pulling the hose doesn't always get all of the old
coolant out of the motor and finally if you don't get all of the air out of
the system it can create an air-lock that could cost you a motor.
The current state of the industry is to suction the old coolant out of the
system, replace the thermostat and refill with fresh coolant.
I have done this job using the lower hose and bucket routine but it is no
fun and I do not recommend it.



-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of mark
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 10:56 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze


hey gang
got a 2002 chevy venture van
and need to change the antifreeze 
did not find a petcot valve to drain the antifreeze that is in the system
can anyone shed some light where this is located 
and seems like the radiator cap is not on top of the radiator so how do i
refill with the fressh antifreeze the next thing is where is the bleeder
valves located to purge the air out of this thing thanks alot any help would
be great it is getting alittle cold up here in n. e. pa. and do not want to
freeze the block  thanks again

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Send any questions regarding list management to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To listen to the show archives go to link
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age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification

[Larry Stansifer]

Add to that a career in the automotive service profession, 100+DB rock and
roll guitar and my love and appreciation of heavy caliber firearms and you
know exactly where the hearing went.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 7:41 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification


Maybe you could get them to make it sound like a funny car or top fuel and
then you'd hear it even if it was quiet.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 9:03 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification


  I have the same problem with my "Stabila," Any kind of background noise
and
  it is pretty much useless.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Tom Hodges
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 7:01 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification

  I have the Sears 10" and 48" digital levels that beep constantly when
level,
  but the volume is so low I can hardly hear it and if I am outside with a
  slight wind blowing, I can't hear it at all (I've written about this
  before). I heard Zercon has one that is louder, so I called them directly
  and they told me it was no longer available. So if anyone know of a
digital
  level with a LOUD beep, I would love to hear the details. As far as
  modifying it to set off a buzzer, I would do that but unfortunately I am
not
  a rocket scientist.

  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Tom Fowle
  Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 5:43 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification

  Hi lenny
  Unfortunately, most of the beepers used in modern gizmos are "piezo
  electric' units which require very low power. Thus there would probably
not
  be enough power available to run a buzzer, which requires a pretty healthy
  chunk. the only buzzers I know that don't take much power are high
frequency
  and thus hard to feel.

  Again, the entire unit probably draws so little current from the battery
  htat there wouldn't be enough current flow to run the buzzer.

  Depending on the battery used, something might be done with an 
  added transistor to take the relatively low current voltage that runs the
  beeper and "switch" more current through to a buzzer, or maybe better to a
  pager vibrator motor.

  If Larry Martin actually has a person who needs
  a tactile level, have him contact me privately
  and we can talk about us doing a one-off unit
  for a particular person. We do have a pretty good deal
  of experience with making stuff vibrate.

  Tom Fowle
  Smith-kettlewell RERC

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
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  List Members At The Following address:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification

[Larry Stansifer]

I have the same problem with my "Stabila," Any kind of background noise and
it is pretty much useless.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tom Hodges
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 7:01 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification


I have the Sears 10" and 48" digital levels that beep constantly when level,
but the volume is so low I can hardly hear it and if I am outside with a
slight wind blowing, I can't hear it at all (I've written about this
before).  I heard Zercon has one that is louder, so I called them directly
and they told me it was no longer available.  So if anyone know of a digital
level with a LOUD beep, I would love to hear the details.  As far as
modifying it to set off a buzzer, I would do that but unfortunately I am not
a rocket scientist.

 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tom Fowle
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 5:43 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification

 

Hi lenny
Unfortunately, most of the beepers used in modern gizmos are "piezo
electric' units which require very low power. Thus there would probably not
be enough power available to run a buzzer, which requires a pretty healthy
chunk. the only buzzers I know that don't take much power are high frequency
and thus hard to feel.

Again, the entire unit probably draws so little current from the battery
htat there wouldn't be enough current flow to run the buzzer.

Depending on the battery used, something might be done with an 
added transistor to take the relatively low current voltage that runs the
beeper and "switch" more current through to a buzzer, or maybe better to a
pager vibrator motor.

If Larry Martin actually has a person who needs
a tactile level, have him contact me privately
and we can talk about us doing a one-off unit
for a particular person. We do have a pretty good deal
of experience with making stuff vibrate.

Tom Fowle
Smith-kettlewell RERC

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Send any questions regarding list management to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
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http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

[Larry Stansifer]

Damn...
I feel left out, when I bought my Stihl a number of years ago the only thing
the guy asked me is, "how many spare chains to you want?"  

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of RJ
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 6:05 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people


I can see the reasoning behind him not wanting to sell you a blade. It
wasn't because you were blind, but he wasn't sure of the cash you were
trying to hand him. For at a round that time a blind counterfeiter carved
out a   perfect set of plates by hand for those twenties you were trying to
give him. But Bob, if it makes you feel any better, I had the same problem
at Sears, when trying  to buy a 18 inch chainsaw.
Smile,
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bob Kennedy 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 7:36 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people


  There is no limit to ignorance. I was at the woodworking show a few years
back, a huge showing of all sorts of dangerous tools for working with wood.
One of the guys selling Forrest Saw blades was on his stage and didn't want
to sell me a blade because he didn't know how a blind person could work a
table saw and not lose fingers. I can't seem to resist a nasty come back
sometimes and told the guy I didn't know how a company with such a good name
would let an idiot represent them in the public place. I did manage to
resist dropping his $150 blade on the concrete floor. But a lot of people
walked away from his display after they heard him. 

  Strangely enough, the next display was for Grip-Tite and the guy running
the booth gave me a 2 by 4 and told me to run it through his table saw. I
told him about the guy from Forrest and he couldn't believe it. 

  There are good people out there but it's always covered up by the ignorant
ones...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jewel 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 7:04 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

  One of our department stores had a very good special on 20 inch chainsaws
recently, and being a
  sucker for chainsaws, I went along to buy one.

  The nasty little jumped-up salesman wouldn't sell me one unless I was
prepared to sign a waiver to
  the effect that if injured, I would not sue them. I had no worry about
signing such a document, but
  it was a clear case of discrimination for anyone can injure themselves
with a chainsaw, and do those
  others have to sign a waiver? no they don't!
  Now, this is a store that sold me, without hesitation, a rotary garden hoe
that didn't have a
  clutch, even though, for reasons of safety, I had, distinctly, said that a
clutch it must have.
  I did not find that it had no clutch until I got it home and was
attempting to find the safety
  feature I had demanded it * MUST have!
  When I say a * clutch, I mean that the machine can be put out of gear, so
that the hoe tines stops
  spinning, but the motor is still running.

  Jewel

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Send any questions regarding list management to:
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List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

[Larry Stansifer]

"It's my story and I'm stickin to it."* excerpted from a Jimmy Buffett song*
I found that the folks who could have cared less about a disability is the
hot rodding fraternity.
They accept you for who you are and what you can do. So what  if you  need
somebody to test drive your results.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 5:37 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people


There is no limit to ignorance.  I was at the woodworking show a few years
back, a huge showing of all sorts of dangerous tools for working with wood.
One of the guys selling Forrest Saw blades was on his stage and didn't want
to sell me a blade because he didn't know how a blind person could work a
table saw and not lose fingers.  I can't seem to resist a nasty come back
sometimes and told the guy I didn't know how a company with such a good name
would let an idiot represent them in the public place.  I did manage to
resist dropping his $150 blade on the concrete floor.  But a lot of people
walked away from his display after they heard him.  

Strangely enough, the next display was for Grip-Tite and the guy running the
booth gave me a 2 by 4 and told me to run it through his table saw.  I told
him about the guy from Forrest and he couldn't believe it.  

There are good people out there but it's always covered up by the ignorant
ones...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jewel 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 7:04 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people


  One of our department stores had a very good special on 20 inch chainsaws
recently, and being a
  sucker for chainsaws, I went along to buy one.

  The nasty little jumped-up salesman wouldn't sell me one unless I was
prepared to sign a waiver to
  the effect that if injured, I would not sue them. I had no worry about
signing such a document, but
  it was a clear case of discrimination for anyone can injure themselves
with a chainsaw, and do those
  others have to sign a waiver? no they don't!
  Now, this is a store that sold me, without hesitation, a rotary garden hoe
that didn't have a
  clutch, even though, for reasons of safety, I had, distinctly, said that a
clutch it must have.
  I did not find that it had no clutch until I got it home and was
attempting to find the safety
  feature I had demanded it * MUST have!
  When I say a * clutch, I mean that the machine can be put out of gear, so
that the hoe tines stops
  spinning, but the motor is still running.

  Jewel



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved

[Larry Stansifer]

That would definitely put an edge on your cane skills.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 4:38 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved


I wouldn't mention the idea but a flat roof without a railing is a definite
health hazard to a blind guy.  They should buy that one.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bill Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 3:06 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved


  My wife and I are seriously considering putting a railing on the flat roof
of our porch and creating a sort of martini deck out there. I've been told
it can be difficult to obtain a permit for that kind of thing, but I have no
idea why. I guess a visit to the zoning department is in the offing.

  Bill Stephan, 
  Kansas City MO 
  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Phone: (816)803-2469

  -original message-
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved
  From: Lenny McHugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  Date: 11/18/2008 19:35

  Bob, so you were doing what I call a sick-bird project? an ill eagle. I
just 
  had to get one. My next door neighbor replaced a porch pillar and was told

  that he needed no permit. I just did the same job and had to purchase a
$40 
  permit. Could it be it is because his son is a police officer?
  - Original Message - 
  From: "chiliblindman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 8:27 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved

  I had to go to a town meeting tonight about my deck building project. They

  were kind of worried what was going on since I put the roof on it and had
a 
  second floor in it. Since I studded the west wall facing the road it
looked 
  like a full blown building and said I needed a permit and had to meet with

  them. I explained what was going on and it was put on the table, voted and

  approved on the spot. They did ask that I fill out the paper work and get 
  it to them as soon as possible.

  Now I legal.
  .bob

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
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  Or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

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  address for more information:
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list 
  just send a blank message to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links

  __ NOD32 3623 (20081118) Information __

  This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
  http://www.eset.com



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] On-board dyagnostic package

[Larry Stansifer]

Bob,

There are a number of windows based code readers and
diagnostic programs on the market. The ones I have seen run
from $19 to about $59 in price. I don't know what
differences are with respect to features nor do I know how
well they will work with screen readers.
My best recommendation would be to find out if they offer
time limited full featured demos or if they have a return
policy. You might also check with the tool truckers in your
area Mac, Snap-on or  Matco.
Keep us posted on what you find out.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of cheetah
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 7:42 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] On-board dyagnostic package


hi Larry
I have a 2001 blazer, and to read the engine codes you need
a scan tool now grrr or pay the mechanic $30 to stick in a
plug flip a switch and read me the darn code.

is there a program I can get that will read the codes for me
using jaws and a laptop? I don't need what you have by any
means but it would be grate to know what's up with my
vehicle by my self Jim


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions
>From Various List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved

[Larry Stansifer]

Lenny my man,

You just bought two $20 permits one for you and one for your
neighbor.
The fascist bastards wanted me to get a permit to put up a
block wall behind my shot so that my treasures wouldn't be
visible. I told them I would string lots of razor wire
around the top of my fence and leave the treasures visible.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lenny
McHugh
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 6:36 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved


Bob, so you were doing what I call a sick-bird project? an
ill eagle. I just 
had to get one. My next door neighbor replaced a porch
pillar and was told 
that he needed no permit. I just did the same job and had to
purchase a $40 
permit. Could it be it is because his son is a police
officer?
- Original Message - 
From: "chiliblindman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 8:27 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved


I had to go to a town meeting tonight about my deck building
project.  They 
were kind of worried what was going on since I put the roof
on it and had a 
second floor in it.  Since I studded the west wall facing
the road it looked 
like a full blown building and said I needed a permit and
had to meet with 
them.  I explained what was going on and it was put on the
table, voted and 
approved on the spot.  They did ask that I fill out the
paper work and get 
it to them as soon as possible.

Now I legal.
.bob

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions
>From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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>From Various List Members At The Following address:
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] On-board dyagnostic package

[Larry Stansifer]

Tom,

I have about three different programs that I use.
1. "Desktop Dyno," Allows you to build a virtual motor
without hitting the Amex card.

2.  "MSD dynamic timing management," allows real time
monitoring of both valve and spark timing relative to engine
temperature, load and RPM.

3.  "Holley fuel management," allows driver seat access to
fuel pressure, injection pulse time adjustable MAP sensor
and individual cylinder temp with optional pyrometer
installation.
None of these programs are really appropriate for your
average daily driver.

I am using a Dell laptop running Windows XP-Pro as well as
both current versions of Jaws and WindowEyes. I find myself
switching between the screen readers depending upon what I
am asking the software to do.
It sucks that I have to use two screen readers to accomplish
a common task,.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom
Fowle
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 6:02 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification


Lary,
Yep,  scopes are done for.
Which code reader package are you using, and with which
screen reader?

tnx
Tom WA6IVG




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification

[Larry Stansifer]

Tom,

With the advent of Onboard diagnostics (OBD) the whole scope
thing is pretty much prehistoric at this point.
I use my laptop to set up Carol's Corvette and the late El
Camino. All of the information that was once displayed on a
oscilloscope CRT is now digitally available to anybody with
a laptop and the appropriate software package.


-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom
Fowle
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 5:05 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification


Hey Lary,
I don't remember an optacon with a vibration thingie on the
chest, but such a thing was done here at Smith-Kettlewell
using a TV. camera and an array of vibrating pins.  Had you
really been desperate enough it's possible you could have
used it on  scope, but they were hideously expensive to
build and unreliable as all heck

Actually we have a design for an audible scope which I think
might work on engine analysis devices, although i don't know
what the scope pattern looks like to be sure.  It doesn't
work with multi-trace patterns, but with simple single trace
stuff it works fine.

On the level, no, i was just thinking of a single pager
motor turning on and off, one side of level, it'd be on all
the time, other side of level, it'd be pulsing on and off,
so level is where it just starts to pulse.

Tom




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification

[Larry Stansifer]

Hey Bro...
Is that like an Opticon flash-back?
I remember back in the mid 70s some dink from Telesensery
spent about a half a day trying to convince me that the
opticon with a chest mounted vibration thingy would provide
me with access to the oscilloscope we used for engine
analysis.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom
Fowle
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 4:17 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification


Larry,
Yep, that or the ball in a cage gozmo that RNIB made while
back. Only deal is ya gotta have a hand on the thing whilst
trying to jiggle the shelf or fence or whatever. I was
thinking about a vibration you might feel in your 
pocket but that's take wires which would be a pain.

tom




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification

[Larry Stansifer]

There was a post on here some months back discussing a
pendulum style level, seems like that would be the hot setup
for a blind/deaf guy.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom
Fowle
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 3:43 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification


Hi lenny
Unfortunately, most of the beepers used in modern gizmos are
"piezo electric' units which require very low power. Thus
there would probably not be enough power available to run a
buzzer, which requires a pretty healthy chunk.  the only
buzzers I know that don't take much power are high frequency
and thus hard to feel.

Again, the entire unit probably draws so little current from
the battery htat there wouldn't be enough current flow to
run the buzzer.

Depending on the battery used, something might be done with
an 
added transistor to take the relatively low current voltage
that runs the beeper and "switch" more current through to a
buzzer, or maybe better to a pager vibrator motor.

If Larry Martin actually has a person who needs
a tactile level, have him  contact me privately
and we can talk about us doing a one-off unit
for a particular person.  We do have a pretty good deal
of experience with making stuff vibrate.

Tom Fowle
Smith-kettlewell RERC




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

[Larry Stansifer]

We were both in shorts and tank-tops and the poor sap had absolutely no idea
who he was dealing with until Carol damn near had her badg imprinted on his
face. The really cool part was that none of the employees would back his
play. They all knew that the kid was in the wrong and stood around and
laughed while Carol chewed hin a new one.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 5:42 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people


Doesn't that just do your heart good to be there though?  It's like "Yeah
what she said!"
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 10:47 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people


  I actually had a rent-a-cop at "Best Buy try to tell me I couldn't bring
my
  dog into the store.
  This earned him a butt chewing usually reserved for Deputies who flunk
range
  quals, miss shifts, or don't let dispatch know when they will be away from
  their units. Carol almost had the kid in tears by the time she got done
with
  him.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
  Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 8:32 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

  Lee, Interesting, maybe she wrote a great set of rules too bad that the 
  employees don't read them. Although they are very helpful many of them try

  to pet or talk to my guide dog.
  - Original Message - 
  From: "Lee A. Stone" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 9:41 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

  David, If I may. only one store that I know has actual training to work
  with folks with all sorts of disabilities and that is Home Depot we know
  the woman who help write the training manuel. So all of us in our own way,
  if needed can continue to educate the public. Lee

  On
  Mon, Nov 17, 2008 at
  07:17:57AM -0500,
  David Ferrin wrote:
  > I'm quite sure we all have had experiences good and bad in dealing 
  > with
  > the
  > public. The secret service didn't want me to use my cane in the white 
  > house
  > when we went for a tore in 1997. Never the less suffice it to say you're
  > going to find such dopes in the most unlikely places even doctor's
offices
  > to mention yet another location. My point is it's fine if you folks wish

  > to
  > share or more accurately vent a bit, but let's not drag it out too long
is
  > all I ask. Personally I can't stand it when a sales clerk won't speak to

  > me
  > choosing instead to discuss things with the person I'm with at the time.

  > It
  > does make it difficult for them when I'm alone in the store or should I 
  > say
  > uncomfortable.
  > David Ferrin
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > Think like a man of action, and act like a man of thought.
  > - Original Message - 
  > From: "Betsy Whitney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  > To: 
  > Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 7:06 AM
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people
  >
  >
  > >I lived and shopped in this town for nine years before my now husband 
  > >arrived. All of a sudden the clerks in the stores started talking to 
  > >him. I would hand them my credit card with my name on it which is 
  > >Elizabeth, not easy to confuse with a male, and they would try to 
  > >hand him the slip to sign. He asks, "Isn't it a felony to sign a 
  > >credit card slip that isn't mine?"
  > >
  > > Now, we have a system wherein when we go to a store he does what he 
  > > calls "whistling dixie." If a clerk or sales person tries to talk 
  > > with him, he just walks away and starts whistling until I'm 
  > > finished.
  > >
  > > One of the other things the clerks did was try to give him my change 
  > > when I paid cash for something. I would ask, "Why is it that the 
  > > money came out of my purse and you're giving him my change? As many 
  > > times as I have seen him pay for things, not once have you ever 
  > > tried to give me his change..."
  > >
  > > At 05:53 PM 11/16/2008, you wrote:
  > >
  > >>Friends of the order of the Nailing Apron,
  > >>You've probably had experiences similar to mine when I visited 
  > >>Menards yesterday. We picked up supplies to upgrade the kitchen. 
  > >>With the new furnace the chimney is no longer in use. By taking it 
  > >>out I can adde 24 inches of upper and l

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

[Larry Stansifer]

I actually had a rent-a-cop at "Best Buy try to tell me I couldn't bring my
dog into the store.
This earned him a butt chewing usually reserved for Deputies who flunk range
quals, miss shifts, or don't let dispatch know when they will be away from
their units. Carol almost had the kid in tears by the time she got done with
him.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 8:32 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people


Lee, Interesting, maybe she wrote a great set of rules too bad that the 
employees don't read them. Although they are very helpful many of them try 
to pet or talk to my guide dog.
- Original Message - 
From: "Lee A. Stone" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 9:41 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people



David, If I may. only one store that I know has  actual training  to work
with  folks with all sorts  of disabilities  and that is Home Depot we know
the woman who help write the training manuel.  So all of us in our own way,
if needed can continue to educate the public. Lee


 On
Mon, Nov 17, 2008 at
07:17:57AM -0500,
David Ferrin wrote:
> I'm quite sure we all have had experiences good and bad in dealing 
> with
> the
> public. The secret service didn't want me to use my cane in the white 
> house
> when we went for a tore in 1997. Never the less suffice it to say you're
> going to find such dopes in the most unlikely places even doctor's offices
> to mention yet another location. My point is it's fine if you folks wish 
> to
> share or more accurately vent a bit, but let's not drag it out too long is
> all I ask. Personally I can't stand it when a sales clerk won't speak to 
> me
> choosing instead to discuss things with the person I'm with at the time. 
> It
> does make it difficult for them when I'm alone in the store or should I 
> say
> uncomfortable.
> David Ferrin
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Think like a man of action, and act like a man of thought.
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Betsy Whitney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 7:06 AM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people
>
>
> >I lived and shopped in this town for nine years before my now husband  
> >arrived. All of a sudden the clerks in the stores started talking to  
> >him. I would hand them my credit card with my name on it which is  
> >Elizabeth, not easy to confuse with a male, and they would try to  
> >hand him the slip to sign. He asks, "Isn't it a felony to sign a  
> >credit card slip that isn't mine?"
> >
> > Now, we have a system wherein when we go to a store he does what he 
> > calls "whistling dixie." If a clerk or sales person tries to talk 
> > with him, he just walks away and starts whistling until I'm 
> > finished.
> >
> > One of the other things the clerks did was try to give him my change 
> > when I paid cash for something. I would ask, "Why is it that the 
> > money came out of my purse and you're giving him my change? As many 
> > times as I have seen him pay for things, not once have you ever 
> > tried to give me his change..."
> >
> > At 05:53 PM 11/16/2008, you wrote:
> >
> >>Friends of the order of the Nailing Apron,
> >>You've probably had experiences similar to mine when I visited 
> >>Menards yesterday. We picked up supplies to upgrade the kitchen. 
> >>With the new furnace the chimney is no longer in use. By taking it 
> >>out I can adde 24 inches of upper and lower cabinets and countertop. 
> >>Then we'll upgrade to new lights, and llay new vinyl flooring. So I 
> >>needed some screws. It's hard for even my wife the find the ones I 
> >>want (3 inch, all purpose with a square drive). So I stood in the 
> >>screw aisle while she went to fetch a sales person. When he came up 
> >>to me I asked him for the xcrews I wanted, and he responded rather 
> >>rudely, "You're looking
> >>at them."
> >>So I lifted up my white cane and said, "I'm sorry , sir, I can't see
> >>them."
> >>Even then he didn't get it. Not until my wife said, "That's why he 
> >>carries
> >>a white cane."
> >>Suddenly the young man became very nice and very helpfully pulled the
> >>screws off the shelf and then located the ring shank nails I need for 
> >>the
> >>underlayment. "Anything else I can help you with?"
> >>We went on without him, and did find another store employee who was very
> >>helpful in helping us locate the underlayment, plywood and masonite we
> >>needed.
> >>Twice, on previous visits to Menards I have had sales clerks ask if I
> >>needed
> >>to check my white cane. Perhaps it looks a bit like PVC. I told them I 
> >>had
> >>already paid for it.
> >>What shopping stories do you have?
> >>Blessings,
> >>Tom
> >>
> >>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > -

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

[Larry Stansifer]

Carol's signature response is "Did I ask you anything? Then don't tell me."
This is usually delivered with the same sweet sensual tone of voice as "keep
your hands where I can see them or  get on the ground now!"

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Scott Howell
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 3:20 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people


Yeah, my wife and I have been in these situations and she says with a  
rather snide tone, "don't ask me, I'm not buy ing the stuff." Pretty  
much telling the person hey idiot, he's asking the questions not me,  
so pay attention.

On Nov 17, 2008, at 1:55 AM, Robert Riddle wrote:

> Oh yeah, I get things like that all the time. Try this.
> This spring we went to our local hardware store. I was looking to
> buy some nails and wire cutters. The sales clerk insisted on talking  
> to my partner rather than to me. Like "What sort of nails is he  
> looking for?" I was like, I'm standing right here, idiot, she  
> doesn't know nothing about tools, don't ask her, lol. And the clerk  
> was looking at me as with this funky expression, like what the hell  
> does a blind man want with nails and wire cutters and hammers? God I  
> hate people like that.
> - Original Message -
> From: Tom Vos
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 9:53 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people
>
> Friends of the order of the Nailing Apron,
> You've probably had experiences similar to mine when I visited Menards 
> yesterday. We picked up supplies to upgrade the kitchen. With the new 
> furnace the chimney is no longer in use. By taking it out I can adde
> 24
> inches of upper and lower cabinets and countertop. Then we'll  
> upgrade to
> new lights, and llay new vinyl flooring.
> So I needed some screws. It's hard for even my wife the find the  
> ones I
> want (3 inch, all purpose with a square drive). So I stood in the  
> screw
> aisle while she went to fetch a sales person. When he came up to me  
> I asked
> him for the xcrews I wanted, and he responded rather rudely, "You're  
> looking
> at them."
> So I lifted up my white cane and said, "I'm sorry , sir, I can't see  
> them."
> Even then he didn't get it. Not until my wife said, "That's why he  
> carries
> a white cane."
> Suddenly the young man became very nice and very helpfully pulled the
> screws off the shelf and then located the ring shank nails I need  
> for the
> underlayment. "Anything else I can help you with?"
> We went on without him, and did find another store employee who was  
> very
> helpful in helping us locate the underlayment, plywood and masonite we
> needed.
> Twice, on previous visits to Menards I have had sales clerks ask if  
> I needed
> to check my white cane. Perhaps it looks a bit like PVC. I told them  
> I had
> already paid for it.
> What shopping stories do you have?
> Blessings,
> Tom
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> 

Scott Howell
[EMAIL PROTECTED]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] caning repairing holes

[Larry Stansifer]

My disclaimer is I don't know squat about cane chairs, rebuilding them  or
wood working however I am pretty fair at repairing and resurrecting holes
that are no longer strait or round. With that in mind, would it be possible
to simply fit the appropriate diameter dowel in the broken out area secure
it using whatever manner wood workers use and redrill the hole to original
dimensions?
Be proud Bob, I didn't say one word about welding,  brazing or retapping to
a larger size.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tom Fowle
Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 8:20 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] caning repairing holes


That's what I intended to describe, the pull of the cane pressing the wedge
shaped blocks into there sockets. Yes, it sounds a lot of work, there is
probably a simpler/better way.

Tom

On Sat, Nov 15, 2008 at 06:42:00PM -0500, Dale Leavens wrote:
> I would be inclined to cut wedges thicker toward the wood side so they 
> would key in like a dove tail. The tightening cane would then act to 
> lock them more firmly into place.
> 
> That sort of repair would be quite extensive and require some pretty 
> careful preparation of the remaining material.
> 
> 
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: Tom Fowle 
>   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Friday, November 14, 2008 11:27 AM
>   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] caning repairing holes
> 
> 
>   Assuming these are holes going through the rails of the chair from top
to
>   bottom, and the cane
>   is fed through them as it makes a vertical 180 degree bend, I'd think
you'd
>   have to use a tiny saw to enlarge the broken out area of the hole and
get a
>   clean edge.
>   I'd want to make the cuts so as to create a V shaped slot with the small
end
>   of the v towards the inside of the chair. Then you'd find wood that is a
>   match for hardness and grain, and cut 
>   little V shaped blocks that would fit in the holes. You could make them
a
>   bit large on the wide end of the v that will end up inside the hole.
>   Then arrange to hold them in the V shaped slots maybe using some of
those
>   pegs we've been talking about while the glue dries.
> 
>   then you could gently reshape the holes with a round file.
>   I think, if my image is correct, the new blocks would be covered by the
>   cane, so color matching might not be important, but it might be an idea
to
>   put some kind of wood sealer on the new wood to reduce expansion due to
>   absorbtion of moisture.
> 
>   I'd also assume you'd have to charge more to fix broken holes than your
>   $1.25, since doing the little blocks and making the slots to fit would
take
>   some time.
> 
>   Just some more speculative off the hat thinking from ignorance.
> 
>   When i was at the Cal school for the blind, they were opposed to all
those
>   stereotyped occupations for us, thus they taught us almost nothing of
any
>   use at all!
> 
>   tom Fowle
> 
> 
>
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 



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[BlindHandyMan] FW: Fw: How to differentiate products that are Made in CHINA

[Larry Stansifer]

Based on the recent tool thread I thought I would send this to the list. 

 
 

 
 
 
 

Subject:  How to differentiate products that are Made in CHINA

 


 



 


This is interesting information.  


 



The whole world is scared of China made 'black hearted goods'. Can you
differentiate which one is made in the USA , Philippines , Taiwan or China ?
Let me tell you how... the first 3 digits of the barcode is the country code
wherein the product was made. 

Simple all barcodes that start with 690.691.692 until 695 are all MADE IN
CHINA. 

This is our human right to know, but the government and related department
never educate the public, therefore we have to RESCUE ourselves.

Nowadays, Chinese businessmen know that consumers do not prefer products
'made in China, so they don't show from which country it is made. 

However, you may now refer to the barcode, remember if the first 3 digits is
690-695 then it is Made in China . 

00 ~ 13 USA & CANADA 
30 ~ 37 FRANCE 
40 ~ 44 GERMANY 
49 ~ JAPAN 
50 ~ UK 
57 ~ Denmark 
64 ~ Finland 
76 ~ Switzerland and Liechtenstein

471 is Made in Taiwan  (see sample below)




628 ~ Saudi-Arabian 

629 ~ United Arab Emirates 
740 ~ 745 - Central America 

All 480 Codes are Made in the Philippines. 

Please inform your family and friends for them to be aware. 

 

 

 

 

 



 

 

 


  _  


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  _  

Store, manage and share up to 5GB with Windows Live SkyDrive. Start
uploading now
  



 
Want to put your personal touch on your home? Click for home
 improvement ideas and tips.




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9:38 PM




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7:17 AM





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AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] The Jawhorse

[Larry Stansifer]

If it is the real Rockwell tool manufacturer and not some Chinese nock-off
it should be ok.
Rockwell has been an industry leader in high end machine tools and shop
equipment for many years.
If they are for real they will have distributor information listed somewhere
on their web site.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Mike Rusk
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 10:47 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The Jawhorse


I just visited this website http://www.rockwelltoolsdirect.com/jawhorse.html
It reminds me of my B&D Workmate which I have used a lot only this monster
seems to have the capacity to hold larger projects and gives you foot
control over the clamp instead of having to hand crank the vice. I don't
know if it would be worth it or if it is superior to anything out there
right now, but Rockwell tools aren't too risky, are they?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan]nail trimming tool

[Larry Stansifer]

Thanks Lenny,
It doesn't sound like it is a hell of a lot different than what I am already
doing. It would be kind of cool to have something that would orient the nail
to the sanding drum, maybe I will have to play with that idea.
I think I must have about five Dremmal tools laying around here so it
wouldn't be a big deal to dedicate one.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 10:10 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan]nail trimming tool


Yes, I do like it. I usually have Karen help so I don't get into the quick. 
It has a hole that you put his nail into then kind of rock the tool to have 
it round over the nail. It has about a 50 grit sanding drum. It basically is

a dremmel tool with a plastic cap over the sanding drum. Karen spotted it in

a store on sale for $15 regular $19.
- Original Message - 
From: "Larry Stansifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 10:35 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse


Are you happy with that nail trimmer? I mounted a stop on a pair of
traditional nail clippers that allows me to take about 1/8" at a time
however it is slow going and the dog and I both get bored with the process.
I have also used my Dremmal tool with a sanding roll and that seems to work
fairly well.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 7:50 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse


Oh, how I agree. There recently was an infomercial on a pet nail grooming
tool. You can now find   it in many stores. A few years ago we purchased an
item and it cost me $65 to return it for shipping and insurance. We vowed
never again to purchase from an infomercial.
- Original Message - 
From: "Larry Stansifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 9:40 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse


If the product is everything the manufacturer claims, it will eventually
make it to the store shelves where we can pat, scratch and caress it and
probably for less than the advertised price.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tom Hodges
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 7:23 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse


As a general rule, according to Reader's Digest last month, stay away from
infomercials as over 90% of their products are junk.



  _

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Scott Howell
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2008 12:52 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse



Hello folks,

My wife and I saw an infommercial for the Rockwell Jawhorse. I was wondering
if any of you had heard of this, knew anything about it, or maybe even
have/had owned or knew anyone that owned/used this device. It's some sort of
clamping device and it sounded pretty neat and it seems to average about
$199 US. Not sure if it's worth the money or not, but just based on the
description from the TV advertisement, it sounded like it might serve a
number of functions.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] stain on the stainless steel

[Larry Stansifer]

Scott,

Several years ago I made a fuel tank for a replica T-bucket roadster out of
a 7.5 gallon stainless steel pony beer keg. I used a scotch-bright pad and
automotive polishing compound to clean it up and it came out beautifully. I
am not talking about "cleaner-waxes, sealers, one step wax-polish just good
old fashioned polishing compound.
You may as they say pack a lunch because it could take a while but it is
worth a shot.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Scott Howell
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 10:11 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] stain on the stainless steel


Hmmm, well if nothing else, I guess I could just blow the sink up.  
grin Ok, another idea to try if all else failes.
On Nov 9, 2008, at 9:20 AM, Tom Hodges wrote:

> First step - CALM DOWN!!!
>
> According to a really great book entitled "Haley's Cleaning Hints",
> for
> tough rust stains, rub the area with lighter fluid (being very  
> careful, of
> course, when disposing of the rag or paper towel you use as this is a
> flammable product). For general cleaning purposes, sprinkle some  
> baking
> soda on a wet cloth or sponge and wipe the sink with it.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Tom
>
> _
>
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> ]
> On Behalf Of Scott Howell
> Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2008 1:01 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] stain on the stainless steel
>
> Ok folks, we really screwed up here. My wife and I both forgot the 
> damned cast-iron pan in the kitchen sink. This morning she found a 
> stain on the bottom of the sink and man we really freaked and worked 
> hard to get rid of it. Not knowing what to use, she tried a bit of CLR 
> and we scrubbed like hell. Got most of it out, but there's one spot 
> that is still there and this is a new sink. So, anyone have any 
> suggestions, please please let me know what I can use to get rid of 
> this stain. I have to admit I put the pan down there for a minute 
> while letting it dry a bit as I finished some other stuff and well 
> needless to say, this and that came along and derailed my memory.
>
> tnx
>
> Scott Howell
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]  net
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> 

Scott Howell
[EMAIL PROTECTED]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse

[Larry Stansifer]

Are you happy with that nail trimmer? I mounted a stop on a pair of
traditional nail clippers that allows me to take about 1/8" at a time
however it is slow going and the dog and I both get bored with the process.
I have also used my Dremmal tool with a sanding roll and that seems to work
fairly well.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 7:50 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse


Oh, how I agree. There recently was an infomercial on a pet nail grooming 
tool. You can now find   it in many stores. A few years ago we purchased an 
item and it cost me $65 to return it for shipping and insurance. We vowed 
never again to purchase from an infomercial.
- Original Message - 
From: "Larry Stansifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 9:40 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse


If the product is everything the manufacturer claims, it will eventually
make it to the store shelves where we can pat, scratch and caress it and
probably for less than the advertised price.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tom Hodges
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 7:23 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse


As a general rule, according to Reader's Digest last month, stay away from
infomercials as over 90% of their products are junk.



  _

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Scott Howell
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2008 12:52 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse



Hello folks,

My wife and I saw an infommercial for the Rockwell Jawhorse. I was wondering
if any of you had heard of this, knew anything about it, or maybe even
have/had owned or knew anyone that owned/used this device. It's some sort of
clamping device and it sounded pretty neat and it seems to average about
$199 US. Not sure if it's worth the money or not, but just based on the
description from the TV advertisement, it sounded like it might serve a
number of functions.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse

[Larry Stansifer]

Carol bought one of those wazoo steam mops "as seen on TV" from Wall mart.
It didn't work worth a damn but it didn't cost her anything to return it for
a full credit. They didn't give her some bogus store credit they put the
total refund back on her AMEX card.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tom Hodges
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 8:09 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse


Hey, here's an interesting tidbit:

 

"As Seen On TV" is actually a brand name.

 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 9:50 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse

 

Oh, how I agree. There recently was an infomercial on a pet nail grooming 
tool. You can now find it in many stores. A few years ago we purchased an 
item and it cost me $65 to return it for shipping and insurance. We vowed 
never again to purchase from an infomercial.
----- Original Message - 
From: "Larry Stansifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:larrys%40infowest.com>
com>
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 9:40 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse

If the product is everything the manufacturer claims, it will eventually
make it to the store shelves where we can pat, scratch and caress it and
probably for less than the advertised price.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Hodges
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 7:23 AM
To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse

As a general rule, according to Reader's Digest last month, stay away from
infomercials as over 90% of their products are junk.

_

From: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Howell
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2008 12:52 PM
To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse

Hello folks,

My wife and I saw an infommercial for the Rockwell Jawhorse. I was wondering
if any of you had heard of this, knew anything about it, or maybe even
have/had owned or knew anyone that owned/used this device. It's some sort of
clamping device and it sounded pretty neat and it seems to average about
$199 US. Not sure if it's worth the money or not, but just based on the
description from the TV advertisement, it sounded like it might serve a
number of functions.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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blindhandyman- <mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com>
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position=47:

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse

[Larry Stansifer]

If the product is everything the manufacturer claims, it will eventually
make it to the store shelves where we can pat, scratch and caress it and
probably for less than the advertised price.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tom Hodges
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 7:23 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse


As a general rule, according to Reader's Digest last month, stay away from
infomercials as over 90% of their products are junk.

 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Scott Howell
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2008 12:52 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jawhorse

 

Hello folks,

My wife and I saw an infommercial for the Rockwell Jawhorse. I was 
wondering if any of you had heard of this, knew anything about it, or 
maybe even have/had owned or knew anyone that owned/used this device. 
It's some sort of clamping device and it sounded pretty neat and it 
seems to average about $199 US.
Not sure if it's worth the money or not, but just based on the 
description from the TV advertisement, it sounded like it might serve 
a number of functions.

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Send any questions regarding list management to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Which end of the air line?

[Larry Stansifer]

Because you won't want to be dragging it all over your work space I would
recommend the compressor end. I have mine screwed into a wood upright
support with about 3' of 1/2" pipe  running from the compressor to the
filter. I have 1/2 pipe with Am-Flow quick connectors that runs around the
perimeter of my shop. This saves me having  humongously long air hoses
stretched out all over the floor.


HTH

Larry

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Agent86b
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2008 2:27 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Which end of the air line?


Hi again all,
what end of the air line do I put the air filter regulater
the compresser or tool end?
Thanks for any help.
Max.




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Removing water from air lines

[Larry Stansifer]

I have one on mine. It will preserve your air tools and prevent you from
introducing any moisture when blowing off your work.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Agent86b
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 11:26 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Removing water from air lines


Hello all,
my wife just read me an advertisement from a magazine.
It is for an Air Filter Regulator.
I understand it is to remove moisture from the compressor hose when 
spray painting.

Would this be a good idea for general use when using my compressor? 
After all I don't do any spray painting (grin).
Thanks as always for any tips.
Max.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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[BlindHandyMan] Test Message

[Larry Stansifer]

I hate doing this guys but I haven't had any messages from this list for
almost 24 hours.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Hard Plastic Water Barrels

[Larry Stansifer]

The strategic view...
165 gallons of water is an excellent preparedness idea however, if for a
myriad of reasons you can't access it, it is pretty much worthless to you.
Wayne, my suggestion to you would be to have water sequestered in several
locations in 10, 15, or 20 gallon fast packs. You will still have access to
some of it regardless of the emergency and tactically it would be easier to
move should the need arise. 

Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 10:34 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Hard Plastic Water Barrels


A frozen water supply when you need water in an emergency isn't all that
useful cracked barrel or not.

Wonder though if it would be worth while mounting them in the attic space
appropriately supported, insulated and with a little heat and enough
plumbing to drain and refill when necessary.

Again I too am mostly thinking out loud.




  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 9:33 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Hard Plastic Water Barrels


  Just thinking out loud here. If you insolate the top pretty well, so that 
  the top doesn't freeze first, then as the rest freezes it will push up 
  and, if you leave head space, it should be OK. Maybe wrapping the top 
  half of the barrel in bubble wrap or old blankets would do the trick.

  Again, just thinking out loud.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Hard Plastic Water Barrels

[Larry Stansifer]

Wayne,

I live down in St. George and if you want to shoot me an Email off list we
can discuss a couple of options.

TNX

Larry

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Wayne W Hinckley
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 12:04 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Hard Plastic Water Barrels


I have three hard plastic water barrels for an emergency supply of H2O
sitting in the furnace room in the basement.  It is long past time to
exchange the contents for fresh water.

My wife wishes they were not in the furnace room because at least one of
them restricts access to shelving there.  The only other places they could
go are in the garage or the shed.  We live in Utah near Salt Lake City and
the water will freeze during the winter in any unheated location.  In fact,
our fall and spring seasons have many freezing night and warm days giving us
a repeated freeze and thaw cycle for days at a time.

Do any of you have experience with these barrels, and will freezing them
make them break?  If not a problem, how much head room should there be to
allow the water to expand as it freezes?

Thanks for any feedback.
 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] requiem to a hotrod

[Larry Stansifer]

The sad reality is it is a $5 car with a $500 face value.
The vehicle carries an "agreed upon" value of $5 and I Turned it into
the bonding agent so we will see what happens
I would love to make it hole but the reality is I have more money tied up in
the paint job than the car is worth on the open market.
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of cheetah
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 8:19 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] requiem to a hotrod


well have his or his daddy's insurance pay for it.
kick back with a beer and let someone else do the work.
Jim


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] requiem to a hotrod

[Larry Stansifer]

Bob,

The motor still runs, when I put the trans into gear and lock up the trans
brake it all works. The air+ suspension still raises and lowers the car. My
concern is parts that are made out of unobtanium. doors, quarter panels, the
passenger  side and rear glass, hood, right front fender, door, quarter and
tail-gate bumper/rear valance assembly. They have all been broken, tweaked
or destroyed. I am not going to make any decisions until we pull laser
measurements and determine if the uni-body is close to square.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 7:03 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] requiem to a hotrod


The rear end sitting over is probably a result of the radius rod being bent.
Or the mounting point being pushed toward the other side.  As you know
straightening the radius rod will weaken it, and as it is probably welded to
the axle, there goes the entire rear end.  

But then, you know a lot of people with really cool toys and it may be a
Phoenix rising to fly once more... 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 8:24 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] requiem to a hotrod


  Bob,

  Basically it is a uni-body with added frame stiffeners. Currently the rear
  end sits about 2.0 inches off set to the drivers side, both right side
  wheels, calipers control arms and four-bar in the rear are bent.
  I have a friend who will bring his 3D laser system by this weekend and we
  will know exactly what happened underneath. 

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 6:12 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] requiem to a hotrod

  Well the first thing to consider is if the frame is bent. If so, that's
  beyond even a well equipped backyard shop. A frame straightening machine
  costs between 30 and 50K as you know.

  If it is cosmetic damage, I would want to rebuild it unless there are
  reasons you have to get rid of it. Body work is often a fun change of pace
  and always rewarding in the end. At least if it ends well... 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 8:03 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] requiem to a hotrod

  Hi folks,

  First of all I would like to thank Phil, don, don and tom for their
  contributions. Many times when stumped by an issue of accessibility I
  would
  ask myself, How would a list member perform this task? If I couldn't come
  up
  with a good answer, I would post it to the list and get a good answer.
  Now for the bad news.
  Last night at about 7:10 PM while returning home from work Carol and Evil
  Camino were struck by a 2007 Ford F350 pulling a 35' goose neck trailer
  loaded with irrigation pipe. Thank GOD Carol is fine other than being
  highly
  pissed. The El Camino however is a different story. The entire right side
  of
  the vehicle is destroyed. She was sitting in the left hand turn lane when
  the truck and trailer failed to negotiate the turn. The 19 year old driver
  lost control as a result of excessive speed and The trailer began to
  fish-tale and slammed both the pickup and trailer into the El Camino. 
  Currently the El Camino is sitting in my shop with a car cover over it and
  I
  am trying to decide what to do.
  As I have ended so many messages to this list, "any suggestions would be
  greatly appreciated."

  Larry

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To listen to the show archives go to link
 
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
  age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
  Or
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  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

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  address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete
list
  of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank
  message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links

  -- 



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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[E

RE: [BlindHandyMan] requiem to a hotrod

[Larry Stansifer]

Bob,

Basically it is a uni-body with added frame stiffeners. Currently the rear
end sits about 2.0 inches off set to the drivers side, both right side
wheels, calipers control arms and four-bar in the rear are bent.
I have a friend who will bring his 3D laser system by this weekend and we
will know exactly what happened underneath. 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 6:12 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] requiem to a hotrod


Well the first thing to consider is if the frame is bent.  If so, that's
beyond even a well equipped backyard shop.  A frame straightening machine
costs between 30 and 50K as you know.

If it is cosmetic damage, I would want to rebuild it unless there are
reasons you have to get rid of it.  Body work is often a fun change of pace
and always rewarding in the end.  At least if it ends well...   
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 8:03 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] requiem to a hotrod


  Hi folks,

  First of all I would like to thank Phil, don, don and tom for their
  contributions. Many times when stumped by an issue of accessibility I
would
  ask myself, How would a list member perform this task? If I couldn't come
up
  with a good answer, I would post it to the list and get a good answer.
  Now for the bad news.
  Last night at about 7:10 PM while returning home from work Carol and Evil
  Camino were struck by a 2007 Ford F350 pulling a 35' goose neck trailer
  loaded with irrigation pipe. Thank GOD Carol is fine other than being
highly
  pissed. The El Camino however is a different story. The entire right side
of
  the vehicle is destroyed. She was sitting in the left hand turn lane when
  the truck and trailer failed to negotiate the turn. The 19 year old driver
  lost control as a result of excessive speed and The trailer began to
  fish-tale and slammed both the pickup and trailer into the El Camino. 
  Currently the El Camino is sitting in my shop with a car cover over it and
I
  am trying to decide what to do.
  As I have ended so many messages to this list, "any suggestions would be
  greatly appreciated."

  Larry


  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

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[BlindHandyMan] requiem to a hotrod

[Larry Stansifer]

Hi folks,
 
First of all I would like to thank Phil, don, don and tom for their
contributions. Many times when stumped by an issue of accessibility I would
ask myself, How would a list member perform this task? If I couldn't come up
with a good answer, I would post it to the list and get a good answer.
Now for the bad news.
Last night at about 7:10 PM while returning home from work Carol and Evil
Camino were struck by a 2007 Ford F350 pulling a 35' goose neck trailer
loaded with irrigation pipe. Thank GOD Carol is fine other than being highly
pissed. The El Camino however is a different story. The entire right side of
the vehicle is destroyed. She was sitting in the left hand turn lane when
the truck and trailer failed to  negotiate the turn. The 19 year old driver
lost control as a result of excessive speed and The trailer began to
fish-tale and slammed both the pickup and trailer into the El Camino. 
Currently the El Camino is sitting in my shop with a car cover over it and I
am trying to decide what to do.
As I have ended so many messages to this list, "any suggestions would be
greatly appreciated."
 
Larry
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Wood Sharp WS3000

[Larry Stansifer]

Bob,
That is what I have been using all along, just thought there might be
something faster and easier. If I want it pretty I can mound a craytex wheel
on my bench grinder for a final polish.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 5:47 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wood Sharp WS3000


It's not going to do well for knives.  Something much less expensive and
very effective for sharpening a knife is a bench top belt sander.  They are
anywhere from 40 to 100 dollars and the length of the belt keeps heat build
up at a minimum and the belt won't become rounded off like a grinding wheel.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 5:58 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Wood Sharp WS3000


  Dale,

  In your opinion, Could something like the ws-3000 be used to sharpen
knives?

  TNX

  Larry
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 3:30 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wood Sharp WS3000

  I have one and I love it. It works very easily for sharpening chisels with
a
  precise angle setting guide. You slide the chisel flat side down up a sort
  of shoot and the bevel edge comes in contact with the spinning underside
of
  the disk. It will set 20, 25, 30 and 35 degree angles. You can grind a 30
  degree face on a chisel then adjust to 35 and polish a micro bevel with
the
  really fine paper.

  To sharpen something wider it is a sort of free-hand job made easier by a
  guide bar you can fairly easily estimate the angle you need. Unless you
have
  a big chip to grind out it doesn't take long at all to get a really good
  edge.

  I would recommend that you pay the extra for the leather surfaced honing
  disk so you can put a mirror finish on the edge.

  I have ground some of the blades of my garden chipper but for that you
  really want a grinder to remove enough material to remove the sorts of
nicks
  that will acquire and probably for grinding things like lawn mower blades.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Ralph Supernaw 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 3:59 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Wood Sharp WS3000

  Some months ago there was a discussion about how well a blind person can
  use
  the Wood Sharp to sharpen chissles and plane blade. I can't remember the
  conclusion. Would someone please refresh my memory or maybe add more to
  the
  discussion? I am considering the purchase of the model WS3000.

  Thanks,
  Ralph

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Wood Sharp WS3000

[Larry Stansifer]

Dale,

In your opinion, Could something like the ws-3000 be used to sharpen knives?

TNX

Larry
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 3:30 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wood Sharp WS3000


I have one and I love it. It works very easily for sharpening chisels with a
precise angle setting guide. You slide the chisel flat side down up a sort
of shoot and the bevel edge comes in contact with the spinning underside of
the disk. It will set 20, 25, 30 and 35 degree angles. You can grind a 30
degree face on a chisel then adjust to 35 and polish a micro bevel with the
really fine paper.

To sharpen something wider it is a sort of free-hand job made easier by a
guide bar you can fairly easily estimate the angle you need. Unless you have
a big chip to grind out it doesn't take long at all to get a really good
edge.

I would recommend that you pay the extra for the leather surfaced honing
disk so you can put a mirror finish on the edge.

I have ground some of the blades of my garden chipper but for that you
really want a grinder to remove enough material to remove the sorts of nicks
that will acquire and probably for grinding things like lawn mower blades.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Ralph Supernaw 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 3:59 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Wood Sharp WS3000


  Some months ago there was a discussion about how well a blind person can
use
  the Wood Sharp to sharpen chissles and plane blade. I can't remember the
  conclusion. Would someone please refresh my memory or maybe add more to
the
  discussion? I am considering the purchase of the model WS3000.

  Thanks,
  Ralph

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] News from CPSC - Two Recalls

[Larry Stansifer]

It is the proper roll of government to make the world idiot proof...
Don't you remember the father and son bozo team that attempted to trim a
hedge with there torrow rotary lawn mower? The manufacturer paid millions,
the lawyers made big money and the dad and kid are still stupid.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lee A. Stone
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 4:36 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] News from CPSC - Two Recalls



main reason for this recall of the wII  system guitar  as I read it 
elsewhere was actually some sighted  person putting the battries in 
back words or upside down. well like dah  . . sure you could get  
szpped and maybe cause a fire. Lee

On Thu, Oct 23, 2008 at 07:03:38AM 
-0400, Lenny McHugh wrote:
> 
> This message consists of the following:
> 
> 1. Rage Wireless Guitars Used with Popular Video Gaming System 
> Recalled Due to Chemical Burn Risk
> (http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml09/09019.html)
> 2. Fiesta Recalls to Inspect and Repair Gas Grills Due to Fire and 
> Burn Hazards (http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml09/09020.html)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. NEWS from CPSC
> U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
> Office of Information and Public Affairs
> Washington, DC 20207
> 
> FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
> October 22, 2008
> Release #09-019
> 
> Firm's Recall Hotline: (800) 331-3844
> CPSC Recall Hotline: (800) 638-2772
> CPSC Media Contact: (301) 504-7908
> 
> Rage Wireless Guitars Used with Popular Video Gaming System Recalled 
> Due to Chemical Burn Risk
> 
> WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in 
> cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary 
> recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using 
> recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed.
> 
> Name of Product: Rage Wireless Guitars
> 
> Units: About 57,000
> 
> Manufacturer/Distributor: Performance Designed Products LLC, of 
> Sherman Oaks, Calif.
> 
> Hazard: A circuit board defect can cause AA batteries used in the 
> guitar to leak if the batteries are installed incorrectly, posing a 
> risk of chemical burns to consumers.
> 
> Incidents/Injuries: Performance Designed Products has received one 
> report of a burn to a consumer.
> 
> Description: The Rage Wireless Guitar controller is designed to be 
> used on the Nintendo Wii system. The guitar is blue or white and is 31 
> inches long. The guitar contains battery-operated LED-lighted fret 
> buttons that go up the neck of the guitar.
> 
> Sold at: Mass merchandisers and specialty retailers nationwide from 
> June 2008 through September 2008 for between $40 and $60.
> 
> Manufactured in: China
> 
> Remedy: Consumers should stop using the wireless guitar game 
> controllers immediately and return them to the place where purchased 
> for a full refund. Do not contact or return the product to Nintendo.
> 
> Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact Performance 
> Designed Products at (800) 331-3844 between 7 a.m. and 9 p.m. CT 
> Monday through Friday, or visit the firm's Web site at www.pdp.com
> 
> To see this recall on CPSC's web site, including pictures of the 
> recalled products, please go to: 
> http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml09/09019.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. NEWS from CPSC
> U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
> Office of Information and Public Affairs
> Washington, DC 20207
> 
> FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
> October 22, 2008
> Release #09-020
> 
> Firm's Recall Hotline: (866) 740-7849
> CPSC Recall Hotline: (800) 638-2772
> CPSC Media Contact: (301) 504-7908
> 
> Fiesta Recalls to Inspect and Repair Gas Grills Due to Fire and Burn 
> Hazards
> 
> WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in 
> cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary 
> recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using 
> recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed.
> 
> Name of Product: Blue Ember Gas Grills
> 
> Units: About 47,000
> 
> Importer: Fiesta Gas Grills, of Dickson, Tenn.
> 
> Manufacturers: Keesung Manufacturing Co. Ltd. and Unisplendor Corp., 
> of China
> 
> Hazard: The gas grills can be assembled improperly exposing the gas 
> burner hoses to excessive heat, posing fire and burn hazards to 
> consumers.
> 
> Incidents/Injuries: Fiesta has received 14 reports of grill fires. No 
> injuries have been reported.
> 
> Description: The recall involves Blue Ember liquid propane (LP) or 
> natural gas outdoor grills. The recalled model and serial numbers are 
> listed below. The model and serial numbers are printed on a rating 
> plate label on the rear of the grill. The cabinet style grill has two 
> doors and is silver-colored and black or silver-colored and gray. 
> "Blue Ember" is printed on the grill's 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling slotted holes

[Larry Stansifer]

Nice Catch...
Back in the day before people had hair I did quite a bit of custom car model
building and I had a set of those very drill-bits. The bad news is they only
went up to about 11/64ths and they had a 1/8 shank.
I think I bought mine from a hobby and craft shop.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of rs_denis
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 6:31 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling slotted holes


I remember a bit some time back that began with a normal drilling tip but
further up the bit it had small teeth and one was supposed to be able to
then move it sideways and these teeth which were from memory half file-like
and half small saw-tooth like, would work like a saw.  I know my memory
alone isn't much to go on here, but perhaps others have seen a similar bit.
RD
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ralph Supernaw 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 8:00 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling slotted holes


  Thanks all for your input. I don't have many holes and am famously hard on
  drill and router bits so think I'll try the file.

  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Tom Fowle
  Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 6:47 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling slotted holes

  Ralph,
  Drill the hole at one end of the prospective slot, get a rat tail file
just
  a bit
  smaller than the hole and grind away.

  You might try drilling and pushing sideways on the board, but you'll end
up
  breaking bits. You can get router bits pretty small but when they're
  that small, assuming big enough for a number 4 screw or the like, the 
  surface speed of the bit gets pretty low and they're not efficient.

  A file's the way to go unless you've got lots of holes.

  Tom Fowle

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Things that beep?

[Larry Stansifer]

Joe,

If this is going to be a temporary solution, why not run a single line
around the inside perimeter about 6" in from the fence and at a comfortable
hand height?
It will even work when the batteries are dead or the power is off.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Chanting Monks
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2008 11:15 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Things that beep?


Hi folks,

Just had my yard fenced in and have been looking for a solution to this 
issue. I want to jog around the inner perimeter of the yard, without having 
to use the cane or run along the fence within touching distance. My 
solution? Finding a way to have all four corner posts rigged with sound so 
as I approach, I know whereabouts I'm at. Running speakers out there for 
music would require a couple of hundred bucks to run the electric, speaker 
wire, and then the speakers themselves, so I was looking around online for 
beeping devices that I might simply velcro to the four fence posts and be 
guided that way. To date, all I've found is a $30 per beeper solution from 
MaxiAids, that uses nonrechargeable batteries, two of each, which get pricey

when talking about replacement.  (It'd actually be cheaper for me to buy a 
few of these beeping foam balls for kids, taking out those beepers and using

them, but I still wind up with the expense of pricey batteries. I'll 
eventually run the speakers, both for my jogging and the addition to the 
yard for BBQs, etc., so spending $120 on a short-term solution isn't in the 
cards. Suggestions? Anybody using anything that beeps  that uses traditional

batteries for which my charger will work? Another solution entirely, 
perhaps? (I thought about driving a stake into the center of the yard and 
using a rope, but I have a tree in the way that can't be removed at present 
due to town ordinance, otherwise I'd just do the circles.  Any 
thoughts/tips/ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Best,
Joe 





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RE: [BlindHandyMan] some rust advice pleas

[Larry Stansifer]

Spray with WD-40, clean thoroughly with 3.0 steel wool, repeat process until
the tools are clean and rust free.
If secondary pitting has occurred as a result of rust degradation you may
need to polish them with craytex or jewelers rude.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of David W Wood
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2008 4:28 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] some rust advice pleas


If the rust is present, use some abrasive paper to remove it.

Having removed it, use some linseed oil smeared on al metal surfaces.

If the tool isn't going to be used for a long while, use some wax oil.

Basic hints but work.


David W Wood

GUILDFORD PHYSIOTHERAPY AND SPORTS CLINIC
MATTHEWS HOUSE
85 EPSOM ROAD
GUILDFORD
SURREY GU1 3PA

T: 01483 575876 (APPOINTMENTS)
 302691 (ALL OTHER INQUIRIES)

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Any prices shown are in pounds sterling and include VAT.  Delivery and
Expense charges are excluded unless otherwise stated. -Original
Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of carl
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2008 4:47 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] some rust advice pleas

my work shop rough has been leacking right over my carving and turning tools
any idears on how to kill the rust?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] problems inside a digital scanner

[Larry Stansifer]

On this same subject, in your opinion, what is the best most accessible
scanner? I have a whole house full of police radios and emergency services
scanners none of which are especially  usable.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 3:36 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] problems inside a digital scanner


Hi Lee,
Years ago I had both brands of scanners. The regency had a greater 
sensitivity. I had to tighten down the squelch to eliminate that problem. 
Later my neighbor purchased a new scanner and it caused so much interference

in the regency that I had to move it to the other end of the house. I also
had one hand held amateur radio that would actually hear itself on 
one frequency. I could not use our clubs repeater with that radio.

- Original Message - 
From: "Lee A. Stone" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Blind Handyman" 
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 7:44 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] problems inside a digital scanner




greetings, I have a digital scanner, a police/ fire / rescue scanner/ some
call them plecktrons. well I have  three of these thru the house two bear
cats and one I think is a regency. the regency  one  which is a digital  has
one channel " 46.50 "  . onely one of the three machines
is making a weird noise , like someone is   keying a mike and holding
it, while the other 2 scanners are just fine. so I have  unlocked and
deleted that" 46.50" channel and then put it back in" same problem which
is   annoying to the ear as it makes that weird sound and then  stops.
on and off. is it possible that a digital machine like that could have a bad
circut or whatever makes it tick? thanks.Lee



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] I need some level advice

[Larry Stansifer]

With the Stabila the beeps morf from a pulse tone to a sustained tone at
level. Not sure at what angle from level the tones begin.

TNX

Larry

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 9:20 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I need some level advice


Hi Max,

Does the beep only happen when the level is exactly level or is there a
range perhaps of changing tone or volume as dead level is approached?

I have never seen one but I am a little curious.

I have a ball/channel device I bought from RNIB when I was a student over
there in the late '60s only about 8 inches long and probably a little too
accurate but it does work pretty well for laying block or bricks. I would
really like a light weight string level though for landscaping. I think Dan
Rossie has a water level which might be made to serve for that as well. When
laying out a masonry wall a tight masonry string line is a valuable tool but
getting one right is a challenge and you want to be able to verify it
occasionally.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Max Robinson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 4:22 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I need some level advice


  If you walk into Sears and ask for an audible level they won't know what
you 
  are talking about. They have two digital levels that read out the angle on

  an LCD. There is a button you can push that turns on a beeper. It beeps at

  zero and 90 degrees.

  Regards.

  Max. K 4 O D S.

  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
  Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
  Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

  To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  - Original Message - 
  From: "Larry Stansifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 2:19 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] I need some level advice

  > Hi art,
  >
  > About the best recommendation I can make is the Stabila. The down side
is
  > the damn things are a bit pricey. The other thing is they are not very 
  > loud
  > so if you are working in a noisy environment or like me your hearing is 
  > shot
  > it may be a problem. They provide you with two accurate readings, level 
  > and
  > vertical.
  > I hear tell there is a way to program a specific angle into the unit so 
  > that
  > it will beep at some pre determined setting but I haven't figured that
one
  > out yet.
  >
  >
  > TNX
  >
  > Larry
  >
  > -Original Message-
  > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 10:24 AM
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] I need some level advice
  >
  >
  > Hello,
  > I have been a long time lurker, and have enjoyed many of the adventures 
  > that
  > folks have had on this list! Thanks for many good ideas and laughs! I am
  > undertaking a masonry project in the next few days, and need to use a 
  > level
  > to get things right. Most times this wouldn't be a problem, as my wife
is
  > sighted, and can usually be enticed to help out. This time I will be
going
  > it alone, and didn't think it was going to be so difficult to find an
  > audible level. I am totally blind, and knew that some of the home
centers
  > sold one a year or two ago. Surprise! They don't carry them anymore! I 
  > have
  > googled and found a couple that would fit the bill, and read through the
  > archives on this list (see message below) and read about a couple here 
  > that
  > I was considering. Does anyone have a recommendation? I know that Sears 
  > had
  > one a while ago, but they don't seem to carry it anymore either. I need
to
  > obtain it in the next few days, and would like to keep the cost down if
  > possible. Thanks for your help and advice! Art
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  > 
  >
  > Send any questions regarding list management to:
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > To listen to the show archives go to link
  >
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
  > age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
  > Or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  >
  > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
Various
  > List Members At The Following address:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/

RE: [BlindHandyMan] I need some level advice

[Larry Stansifer]

Hi art,

About the best recommendation I can make is the Stabila. The down side is
the damn things are a bit pricey. The other thing is they are not very loud
so if you are working in a noisy environment or like me your hearing is shot
it may be a problem. They provide you with two accurate  readings, level and
vertical.
I hear tell there is a way to program a specific angle into the unit so that
it will beep at some pre determined setting but I haven't figured that one
out yet. 


TNX

Larry

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 10:24 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] I need some level advice


Hello,
I have been a long time lurker, and have enjoyed many of the adventures that
folks have had on this list! Thanks for many good ideas and laughs! I am
undertaking a masonry project in the next few days, and need to use a level
to get things right.  Most times this wouldn't be a problem, as my wife is
sighted, and can usually be enticed to help out. This time I will be going
it alone, and didn't think it was going to be so difficult to find an
audible level.  I am totally blind, and knew that some of the home centers
sold one a year or two ago. Surprise! They don't carry them anymore! I have
googled and found a couple that would fit the bill, and read through the
archives on this list (see message below) and read about a couple here that
I was considering. Does anyone have a recommendation?  I know that Sears had
one a while ago, but they don't seem to carry it anymore either. I need to
obtain it in the next few days, and would like to keep the cost down if
possible. Thanks for your help and advice! Art




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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[BlindHandyMan] Ozone generators

[Larry Stansifer]

Hi folks,
 
Here is what I found regarding some Ozone generator guidelines.
A couple of things to consider, if you choose to review this material.
1. The information does come from California The no-no state dedicated to
saving you from yourself.
 
2. The information is a year old.
 
3. This information was published by the government "California Air
Resources Board." You know the ones:  "We're from the government and we are
here to help you."
 
www.arb.ca.gov/research/indoor/ozone.htm
 
TNX
 
Larry


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] RE: ozone generators:

[Larry Stansifer]

Tony,

Do you have it tied into your central heating system?
How many square feet are you covering?
How long and how often do you allow it to run?
Any down-sides?

TNX

Larry
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tony
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2008 5:30 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] RE: ozone generators:


I bought a commercial ozone generator a few years ago.  I use it on a timer
to run for a couple of hours and then be off a couple of hours before I get
back home.  I usually run it a couple of times a month with circulation to
cover the entire house.  It works wel on odors and all kinds of varmits.

Tony
 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Scott Howell
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2008 8:27 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] RE: ozone generators:

Tom, that's how I recall it. I think it's fine as long as your not  
living with it daily and if you do the amounts have to be way way low. On
Sep 25, 2008, at 6:23 PM, Tom Fowle wrote:

> Maybe a year ago, folks were asking about air filters
> and pushing those that claimed to include ozone generators.
>
> I looked up warnings about them, both not working
> for air filtration and being unsafe, on the EPA's web site.
>
> Hope the results are on the files page.
>
> Again, I wouldn't be too worried as long as nothing that wants to
> stay alive
> is in the sealed space while ozone is being generated, it should  
> dissipate
> pretty fast once the machine is off and the space opened up.
>
> It's not instantly deadly in reasonable amounts, but not a good idea 
> to breathe much ozone.
>
> tom Fowle
>
>
> 

Scott Howell
[EMAIL PROTECTED]





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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Propane Grill and Galvanized Rack

[Larry Stansifer]

You might consider using a product universally referred to as "expanded
metal grating or metal matt."
This is an extremely heavy extruded grating material that works very well in
fiery environments. I have made a couple of grates for wood stoves out of
this stuff and they have lasted for years.
Try an industrial supply or steel yard for sourcing this stuff.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2008 7:52 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Propane Grill and Galvanized Rack


Many gas grills don't use those rocks any longer.  I bought one a few years
back and thought something was wrong but when we read the instructions there
was no mention of them.  
On Fathers day in 07 my son and I bought the big 4 burner model and it
doesn't have rocks either.  

As for whether making something will be dangerous or not I couldn't say for
sure.  But the rack you make will be under the rocks so it should be
alright.  But that's out of my area too.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Wayne W Hinckley 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, September 26, 2008 8:05 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Propane Grill and Galvanized Rack


  Last year my daughter bought a propane grill at the end of the season. It
has not been used yet. When I looked it over the other day I found that it
is missing the lower rack that holds the lava rocks. Perhaps we lost it, or
perhaps it was never in the original box. It is too late for returns or
complaints.

  I am wondering if I were to fashion a rack out of galvanized hardware
cloth, would there be a problem with the galvanized material getting hot and
causing a health problem with the food being cooked. The food would not be
in direct contact with the galvanized material, but would the galvanized
material give off harmful fumes?

  Any other suggestions are welcomed.

  Thanks,
  Wayne
  ---

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Eliminating Odors from Sofas?

[Larry Stansifer]

The o-zone generator will do just that. Talk to an equipment rental outlet
that offers them and find out if there any  limitations with respect to room
size. 
Under the right circumstances this machine could also remove odors from
carpets and fabric window treatments.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Claudia
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2008 1:12 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Eliminating Odors from Sofas?


Hi,

Actually, this is not a mold issue.

The sofas are not in the area of the house, affected by the water. This is
just odors from years of usage and things being spilled on them, etc. We've
had this furniture for about 6 years now, so it's time for a good cleaning!

Claudia

  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 7:28 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Eliminating Odors from Sofas?


  Claudia,

  There is a process used by high end automotive detailers to remove mold,
  mill due, cigarette smoke and other permanent odor from car interiors. The
  bad news is the name of the process escapes me for the moment however, I
  know a guy who does it and I will give him a call and ask him what the
  process is and if it will work on household upholstery.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Claudia
  Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 8:00 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Eliminating Odors from Sofas?

  hi,

  Is there something I can do, to help eliminate odors from sofas? We've had
  them, since we moved into this house, six years ago now, and 
  they're still in good condition, but we need to get them professionally 
  cleaned!

  Things like Fabreeze just mask odors, so I stopped using things like that,

  some time ago!
  How can I get the sofas cleaned?
  Thanks.
  Claudia

  Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while 
  the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Eliminating Odors from Sofas?

[Larry Stansifer]

I remember that a couple of dealerships that I worked for had them in their
used car departments but I don't have any first hand knowledge or experience
with them.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 6:30 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Eliminating Odors from Sofas?


That is an idea.  Now the problem is where to rent one.  I used to own one,
but that was used to...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 7:49 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Eliminating Odors from Sofas?


  Yup... that would be the one.
  Would tenting the sofa with plastic sheeting work?
  We have been so damn busy at work I clean forgot to call the detailer I
  know.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 4:53 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Eliminating Odors from Sofas?

  Are you talking about that suit case looking ozone generator? Does a great
  job in a car but I don't know if it could be concentrated enough in a wide
  open room.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 8:28 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Eliminating Odors from Sofas?

  Claudia,

  There is a process used by high end automotive detailers to remove mold,
  mill due, cigarette smoke and other permanent odor from car interiors. The
  bad news is the name of the process escapes me for the moment however, I
  know a guy who does it and I will give him a call and ask him what the
  process is and if it will work on household upholstery.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Claudia
  Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 8:00 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Eliminating Odors from Sofas?

  hi,

  Is there something I can do, to help eliminate odors from sofas? We've had
  them, since we moved into this house, six years ago now, and 
  they're still in good condition, but we need to get them professionally 
  cleaned!

  Things like Fabreeze just mask odors, so I stopped using things like that,

  some time ago!
  How can I get the sofas cleaned?
  Thanks.
  Claudia

  Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while 
  the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
  age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
  Or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ 

  If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
  address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete
  list
  of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank
  message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links

  -- 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  

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  List Members At The Following address:
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Eliminating Odors from Sofas?

[Larry Stansifer]

Yup... that would be the one.
Would tenting the sofa with  plastic sheeting work?
We have been so damn busy at work I clean forgot to call the detailer I
know.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 4:53 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Eliminating Odors from Sofas?


Are you talking about that suit case looking ozone generator?  Does a great
job in a car but I don't know if it could be concentrated enough in a wide
open room.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 8:28 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Eliminating Odors from Sofas?


  Claudia,

  There is a process used by high end automotive detailers to remove mold,
  mill due, cigarette smoke and other permanent odor from car interiors. The
  bad news is the name of the process escapes me for the moment however, I
  know a guy who does it and I will give him a call and ask him what the
  process is and if it will work on household upholstery.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Claudia
  Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 8:00 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Eliminating Odors from Sofas?

  hi,

  Is there something I can do, to help eliminate odors from sofas? We've had
  them, since we moved into this house, six years ago now, and 
  they're still in good condition, but we need to get them professionally 
  cleaned!

  Things like Fabreeze just mask odors, so I stopped using things like that,

  some time ago!
  How can I get the sofas cleaned?
  Thanks.
  Claudia

  Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while 
  the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To listen to the show archives go to link
 
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
  age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
  Or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ 

  If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
  address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete
list
  of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank
  message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links

  -- 



   

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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Eliminating Odors from Sofas?

[Larry Stansifer]

Claudia,

There is a process used by high end automotive detailers to remove mold,
mill due, cigarette smoke and other permanent odor from car interiors. The
bad news is the name of the process escapes me for the moment however, I
know a guy who does it and I will give him a call and ask him what the
process is and if it will work on household upholstery.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Claudia
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 8:00 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Eliminating Odors from Sofas?


hi,

Is there something I can do, to help eliminate odors from sofas? We've had
them, since we moved into this house, six years ago now, and 
they're still in good condition, but we need to get them professionally 
cleaned!

Things like Fabreeze just mask odors, so I stopped using things like that, 
some time ago!
How can I get the sofas cleaned?
Thanks.
Claudia

Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while 
the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]




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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] cabinet screws

[Larry Stansifer]

WOW... NO */^?...
I've seen a driver mess up a gazillion screws but seldom have I seen a screw
mess up a driver bit. I would bet a cold beer on a tool tempering issue.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 1:14 PM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cabinet screws


A year or so ago I purchased some cabinet screws that have both a square 
drive and Phillips screw head. I first thought it was great that I could use

either type of screw driver. I normally prefer the square drive. Anyway the 
other day I was working on something that had Phillip head drywall screws. I

lost one of the screws and grabbed a cabinet screw. When I tightened the 
screw with the Phillips head I destroyed the screwdriver. although it was 
the correct size most of the screw driver went into the square hole leaving 
only a small part to grip the screw. It really mangled the tip of the 
screwdriver. Thankfully it was one that had a lifetime replacement. I will 
be careful never to use the Phillips drive with these screws again. Please
visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous 
with many resources.
http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
Lenny




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Fw: Creeeeeeeeeepy! Try it!!

[Larry Stansifer]

What the hell is all of this about?
I couldn't find anything to fix and the only thing broken was the rules.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Nancy M Hill
Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 7:35 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Fw: Creepy! Try it!!



- Original Message - 
From: Elizabeth Moore 
To: Bill Aberle ; Margaret Alford ; Lee Allison ; George Arias ; Beth ;
Bonnie ; Dave Colelli ; Gary ; NANCY HILL ; Tom Holland ; Vince Hopkins ;
Donna McGlade 
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:55 PM
Subject: Fw: Creepy! Try it!!


  We'll see...from my dear friend Tom!

  --- On Sun, 8/31/08, thomas field <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

From: thomas field <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Fw: Creepy! Try it!!
To: "Jerome Petit-Jacques" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Paul Liberatore"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "paul minella" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Michelle James"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Barbs M Herman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Beth Moore"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Larry Barber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Brenda Gennari"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Gail List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Cherryann James"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Donna Pitrelli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
"Dave Colleli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Corinne Field"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "jim thompson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "STEPHANIE A
REMBES" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Joe Stack" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Gary Tews"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sunday, August 31, 2008, 1:00 PM






  I'm told this works but I'm a skeptic. . .so about
once a year I'll forward something some sends me.  Here goes.  



  Ok guys, this truly is freaky,  the
  Phone literally rang as soon as I read
  The last word of this  email!

  I am taking  the bait -
  What do I have to lose  right?

  Hope  it  works!


  Supposedly  The Phone Will Ring
  Right After You Do  This.

  Just  read the little stories and
  Think of a wish as you scroll all
  The way to  the bottom. There is
  A message there - then make  your
  Wish.

  No  attachment on this  one.

  Stories

  I'm  13 years old, and I wished
  That my dad would come home from
  The army,  because he'd been having
  Problems with his heart and right
  Leg. It was  2:53 p .m.. When I made
  My wish. At 3: 07 PM. (14 minutes
  Later), the  doorbell rang, and
  There my Dad was, luggage and  all!!

  I'm Katie and I'm 20 and I've been
  Having  trouble in my job and on the
  Verge of quitting. I made a simple
  Wish  that my boss would get a new
  Job. That was at 1:35 and at 2:55
  There was  an announcement that he
  Was promoted and was leaving for
  Another city.  Believe me...this
  Really works!!!

  My  name is Ann and I am 45 years
  Of age. I had always been single
  And had  been hoping to get into a
  Nice, loving relationship for many
  Years.  While kind of daydreaming(and right after
receiving this email)
  I wished  that a quality person would
  Finally come into my life. That was at
  9:10  AM on a Tuesday. At 9:55 AM
  A FedEx delivery man came into my
  Office.He  was cute, polite and
  Could not stop smiling at me. He
  Started coming  back almost everyday even without
packages)

  and asked me out a  week later . We married 6
  Months later and now have been happily married
for 2 years. 

  What a great email it  was!!




scroll down to the end, but
  While you do, think of a wish.
  Make your  wish when you have completed
  Scrolling. Whatever age you are, is  the
  Number of minutes it will take for your
  Wish to come true. Ex.you  are 25 years
  Old, 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill incline

[Larry Stansifer]

Much as I love the challenge of a good fabrication job,  think I will walk
around this one as well.
TIG welder, chop saw and scrap metal stack survive yet another of my
hair-brained projects.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 3:01 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill incline


Agreed, time to put this thread to rest.
I did decide to not pursue trying to increase the designed incline, it is 
not worth the risk of something going wrong.
moderator
- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Rossi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill incline


OK Victor, you are correct in that the free end of the treadmill does move
in an arc, but at any point along that arc, you can describe the triangle.
Made by the three points as follows:

1: the stationary end of the treadmill.
2: the point directly below the stationary end, and at the same height of
the opposite end of the treadmill.  IE, that point will move up and down as
the far end of the treadmill moves up and down.
3: the far end of the treadmill.  That point will move up and down, but will
also move in and out as the treadmill moves up and down. The distance from
the fixed point of the treadmill to the point directly below it is the rise
or height of the triangle.

The distance from the free end of the treadmill to the imaginary point below
the fixed end, is the run or base of the triangle.  For small angles, you
can assume that this run is the same length as the treadmill, 60 inches in
our example.  However, as the angle increases, the length of that base leg
will actually get shorter.

The hypotenuse of the triangle is the length of the treadmill.  So, for any
given angle, and since you have the hypotenuse, you can get the other two
sides of the triangle.

I think this dead horse is sufficiently beaten now.

  -- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: (412) 268-9081



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill incline

[Larry Stansifer]

The first thing they mention in my owners manual is never under any
circumstances attempt to block or elevate the treadmill assembly in any
manner.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 6:18 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill incline


Larry, Thanks, I have to take another look at mine. Maybe it would be best 
for safety to leave it alone.
- Original Message - 
From: "Larry Stansifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 8:06 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill incline


Lenny,

I took a very long hard look at my treadmill after reading your post and the
only way you can effectively change the angle of the running surface would
be to full frame the entire unit, with the incline built into the new frame.
Simply blocking one end or the other would create some serious issues with
both the belt drive and incline mechanisms. I have a design banging around
in the empty reaches of my brain. I kind of like the basic idea of
additional incline so if anything materializes I will keep you guys posted.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 6:43 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill incline


It is about 5 foot in length. I planned on blocking under the front wheels.
- Original Message - 
From: "David W Wood" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 6:20 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill incline


What length is the bed of your tread mill?
That is to say, from its pivot point to the point where you will put the
blocks? Will its framework tolerate external modification?


David W Wood

GUILDFORD PHYSIOTHERAPY AND SPORTS CLINIC
MATTHEWS HOUSE
85 EPSOM ROAD
GUILDFORD
SURREY GU1 3PA

T: 01483 575876 (APPOINTMENTS)
 302691 (ALL OTHER INQUIRIES)

E: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
W: http://tinyurl.com/5wptcp


DISCLAIMER
The information contained in this e-mail is strictly confidential and is
intended solely for the individual/s to whom it is addressed. If you are not
the intended recipient or have received this e-mail in error please delete
it immediately.  Any disclosure including but not withstanding reading
copying or distribution of all or part of the information contained herein
is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.  Although this email and any
attachments are believed to be free of any virus or any other defect which
might affect any computer or system on which they are received and/or opened
it is the responsibility of the recipient to ensure that they are virus free
and no responsibility is accepted by The Guildford Physiotherapy and Sports
Clinic for any loss or damage arising in any way from receipt or use
thereof.   Any opinions or advice contained in this email are not
necessarily those of The Guildford Physiotherapy and Sports Clinic or any
individual or individuals working or acting on its behalf.

Any prices shown are in pounds sterling and include VAT.  Delivery and
Expense charges are excluded unless otherwise stated. -Original
Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 10:39 PM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill incline

How do I figure out what angle a 14% grade is on a tread mill? I just had a
stress test and was walking 3.5 mph at 14% incline. My treadmill goes no
where near that. I think I would  like to put some blocks under the front to

take it to at least 10%. I did a lot of internet searches and found nothing
that helps.

Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
with many resources. http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
Lenny




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Check

RE: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill incline

[Larry Stansifer]

Lenny,

I took a very long hard look at my treadmill after reading your post and the
only way you can effectively change the angle of the running surface would
be to full frame the entire unit, with the incline built into the new frame.
Simply blocking one end or the other would create some serious issues with
both the belt drive and incline mechanisms.
I have a design banging around in the empty reaches of my brain. I kind of
like the basic idea of additional incline so if anything materializes I will
keep you guys posted.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 6:43 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill incline


It is about 5 foot in length. I planned on blocking under the front wheels.
- Original Message - 
From: "David W Wood" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 6:20 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill incline


What length is the bed of your tread mill?
That is to say, from its pivot point to the point where you will put the
blocks? Will its framework tolerate external modification?


David W Wood

GUILDFORD PHYSIOTHERAPY AND SPORTS CLINIC
MATTHEWS HOUSE
85 EPSOM ROAD
GUILDFORD
SURREY GU1 3PA

T: 01483 575876 (APPOINTMENTS)
 302691 (ALL OTHER INQUIRIES)

E: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
W: http://tinyurl.com/5wptcp


DISCLAIMER
The information contained in this e-mail is strictly confidential and is
intended solely for the individual/s to whom it is addressed. If you are not
the intended recipient or have received this e-mail in error please delete
it immediately.  Any disclosure including but not withstanding reading
copying or distribution of all or part of the information contained herein
is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.  Although this email and any
attachments are believed to be free of any virus or any other defect which
might affect any computer or system on which they are received and/or opened
it is the responsibility of the recipient to ensure that they are virus free
and no responsibility is accepted by The Guildford Physiotherapy and Sports
Clinic for any loss or damage arising in any way from receipt or use
thereof.   Any opinions or advice contained in this email are not
necessarily those of The Guildford Physiotherapy and Sports Clinic or any
individual or individuals working or acting on its behalf.

Any prices shown are in pounds sterling and include VAT.  Delivery and
Expense charges are excluded unless otherwise stated. -Original
Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 10:39 PM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill incline

How do I figure out what angle a 14% grade is on a tread mill? I just had a
stress test and was walking 3.5 mph at 14% incline. My treadmill goes no
where near that. I think I would  like to put some blocks under the front to

take it to at least 10%. I did a lot of internet searches and found nothing
that helps.

Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
with many resources. http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
Lenny




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[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
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18:55



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] porch windows

[Larry Stansifer]

Rita,

Automotive window tinting is a great idea however, it is a major pain in the
32nd vertebrae to install. You need to keep it extremely wet during the
initial installation process and as it dries you will need to squeegee out
bubbles and wrinkles.
The glass must be extremely and I mean extremely clean before beginning and
the sheets of tint must be cut to the precise dimensions of the glass they
are to cover. If you are hell bent to tint those windows, Email me off list,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] and maybe I can help talk you through that project.
*don't try this one at home kids*


-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of cheetah
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 4:23 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] porch windows


hi rita try a custom car shop.
they have this stuff you put on car and van windows.
jim


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] porch windows

[Larry Stansifer]

Rita,

Believe it or not those old fashioned roller shades are back in fashion. You
can spend anywhere from about $8.00 to $90.00 per window depending upon what
you are looking for.
You measure the inside width of your windows to be covered and your big box
store of choice will custom cut them to your specs. If you are handy,
married to somebody who is or can provide a home cooked meal to a starving
bachelor installation appears to require a scratch-all, some kind of
accessible measuring device and a cordless screw driver. Obviously the job
could be done using a traditional screw driver but that might require two
home cooked meals depending on the number of windows to be covered.

Larry


-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rita
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 3:28 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] porch windows


Ah this sounds much more to my liking.  Thank you Brice.
Rita


On Thu, 11 Sep 2008, Brice Mijares wrote:

> Have you checked out home depot?  We bought some rubber like material 
> there a few years ago that you wet and applied to the window.  It may 
> have been some kind of plastic, but it's still in good shape, and if I 
> remember correctly, they had it in stained glass.
>
>



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] ebay

[Larry Stansifer]

Terrible grammar, poor punctuation, a visible CC list aside, what is this
doing on the bhm list?

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Alex Stone
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 11:24 AM
Cc: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] ebay


ebayDear friends.We are EBAY a large wholesaler.Our products include
digital cameras,RUF-Cinema,phone,Laptops, Digital Video, Mp4, GPS,and so on.
The quality of our products is excellent, and our prices are very good. You
can make very good profits to resell them or you can save much money.  In
these years,We have gained a good reputation and welcomed by many customers
worldwide.Please feel free to contact us if any questions. We will try our
best to give you a satisfactory answer. We hope we can establish a long term
cooperation.Our website: http://www.good58588.com   MSN:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   E-MAIL:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] What a difference ten feet of pipe can make

[Larry Stansifer]

Lee,

Do you suppose that the government fascists would allow you to dump your
runoff into the local sewer system?

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lee A. Stone
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 3:11 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] What a difference ten feet of pipe can make



R J, that kind of pipe will not work  for us here  in my part of New 
York we are near solid clay and once this clay gets wet, well it will 
not hold any more water. I did many years ago dig a big dry well and 
filled it with decent size rocks.  it takes just a  hor or so of rain 
to fill that dry well.. Only other idea I had was to bury a big tank 
and then pump the water up and out to my neighbors property.  . Lee

On 
Tue, Sep 09, 
2008 
at 01:58:35PM -0400, RJ wrote:
> Lee,
> 
> Did the same thing when I first moved into our house back in 2003, 
> except I used the plastic 4 inch peperated drain pipe. I buried the 
> pipe about 6 inches under ground. It worked like a charm. RJ
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 

-- 
An honest politician is one who when he is bought will stay bought.
-- Simon Cameron

There are honest journalists like there are honest politicians.  When bought
they stay bought.
-- Bill Moyers
Come and chat with me at #quietzone on irc.newnet.net



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] grandson's request for an idea

[Larry Stansifer]

Does it need to be out of wood?

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 12:26 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] grandson's request for an idea


Why a braille clock?

There must be thousands of things from bird houses to CD racks or drawers 
which offer varieties of interesting joinery techniques.

You might like to google something like woodworking projects for kids. How 
old is the boy? Maybe toys or puzzles?

Perhaps there is a reason you wish to focus on blindness but there is more 
out there.



- Original Message - 
From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "handyman-blind" 
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 12:18 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] grandson's request for an idea


>I am kind of at a loss for Christian's request for help. He wants me to
>come
> up with an idea of something that he can build for school. This is not a
> school project it is something he wants to make that would be school
> related.
> I thought about helping him to make a Braille clock. I considered making a
> 12" frame with 2" stock then mount a 1/4" panel with a hole centered for 
> the
> clock movement. Then like a Braille watch have him glue plugs around the
> circumference of the clock. Around the frame I thought about having him
> paint the alphabet and the Braille equivalent.
> Any other suggestions appreciated. After a week this is the only thing I 
> can
> think of.
>
> Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and 
> humorous with many resources. http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
> Lenny
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to: 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To listen to the show archives go to link 
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=
> view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. 
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
> Various
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address 
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the 
> following
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links
>
>
>
>
> 




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Total Gym Exercise Equipment question

[Larry Stansifer]

Barbra,

They aren't to difficult but you may  need eyeballs for the first time.
You might try their website to see if there is an on-line version of the
assembly manual.

Good luck.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Barbara
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 6:44 PM
To: Undisclosed-Recipient:;
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Total Gym Exercise Equipment question


Hey by any chance would anyone know to put together the total gym machine?
Everyone stay safe and have a good evening.  Thanks in advance. Barbara 

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] power inverters

[Larry Stansifer]

Lenny,

All of the ones that are worth having have a failsafe shut off switch that
kills the inverter when the battery voltage reaches the 10.5 range so that
you will still have enough battery to start the motor. Keep in mind these
are all perfect world numbers and the damn thing can still break your heart
if the battery, starter, battery cables or charging system are not up to
snuff.
If you are intent upon using an inverter regularly I would highly recommend
a duel battery set up with a current control relay that only allows the
second battery to charge when it's voltage drops below a certain level. The
entire installation kit can be purchased for less than a hundred bucks and
the piece of mind a second battery provides. *priceless* 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 4:31 PM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] power inverters


Sorry but this is going to be a very long post.
Some time ago I purchased a 90w inverter on sale for about $13. On our way 
to Canada I used it to power my Trekker. About halfway there my grandson's 
game system ran out of power so I hooked it up to the inverter. The way I 
had it wired there was only one plug.
I know he would like it for his mom's car. Where I purchased they now have a

160w with a 300w peak for $15. Since my van has a much heavier battery, 850 
cca,  and charging system I thought about giving the 90w to Christian and 
getting the 160w for me. If we ever go on another long trip that one would 
have no problem with his games, trekker and Karen's camera.
My question is how can I figure out how long to let it run with the motor 
shut off?  Another question is will the 160w always require the same input 
power regardless of the output requirements?
I am not sure how these new inverters work, I suspect that they increase the

battery draw depending upon the demand but am not sure.
The van has several 12v outlets, two are controlled via the key and the 3rd 
is always hot.
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous 
with many resources.
http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
Lenny




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Greasing the wheels or not

[Larry Stansifer]

Not guilty guys...

My El Camino is not white...

As far as the garden cart is concerned, you will need to find out where the
wheels are binding and space them accordingly.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of William Stephan
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 5:19 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Greasing the wheels or not


Well, by way of background:

I finally bought myself a light-duty table saw from the lads at Harbor
Freight.  It's light enough that I can move it around relatively easily,
though I'm sure it's not the most accurate thing available.

 

And, since I've done that, I needed to figure out how to get the lumber to
cut with the saw.

One of the folks on this list (I won't embarrase him), has this same problem
of how to haul stuff, and while we were at convention, he pretty well
convinced me that a large garden cart was a very necessary thing.

 

My wife green-lighted both purchases,  and I was able to scrounge a ride
with a coworker with a really souped up, refrigerator white El Camino over
to the local Home Depot, during a pretty wild thunderstorm, and picked up
the cart, in a box of course.

 

I opened the carton on Saturday and looked over what I had.  I understood
some of it, but not enough to put the thing together with even a prayer that
it would be right.  I scanned the instruction sheet/manual, which was really
special because Spanish and English were commingled in the text.

Still no dyse.  So, I bribed the fellow who does our book keeping and is an
occasional reader to come over on Sunday and spend about three hours in the
blazing sun putting the thing together.  Even with him looking at the
diagram and reading the instructions, it was far far from intuitive, for me
anyway.  Maybe if I had seen one of these assembled I could have figured it
out.

The bottom line now though is that the front wheels, while they do turn, are
not really what I'd call free.  There don't seem to be bearings in the
wheels, and they are affixed to the axel in front of a spacer and with a
wassier and nut to hold the assembly together.  I don't know whether to
grind off the ends of the spacers a little bit, grease the whole set-up, or
just wait and see if things get better with a little use.  Any thoughts from
some of you folks?

If I should lubricate this, what would be a good product?

BTW, it's a nice cart, measures 24 x 48 with foot-high sides that can be
folded down.  I even used it as a nice back-saving platform for grinding
down the two dogs' nails today, so I think it was a wise investment, even if
it isn't rolling so good right yet.

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] White Cane Question

[Larry Stansifer]

Try a back-packing store specializing in repairs and custom work. They will
on occasion use that cord as part of their load suspension system.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Wayne W Hinckley
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 4:18 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] White Cane Question


Also, you will find it at your State Division for the Blind if they sell
canes and tips and do some repairs.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Trouble 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 6:55 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] White Cane Question


  you might find it in a hobby shop. not many places go down to that 
  size of bunjy.

  At 02:09 PM 8/30/2008, you wrote:

  >Hi,
  >
  >I have a relatively new 5 section folding cane. It is one of the
  >carbon fiber ones so it is still straight and I would like to
  >keep it. The string on the inside broke and I want to restring
  >the cane.
  >
  >Does anyone know where to find that type of string at? I was
  >thinking a fabric store. But was wondering if anyone had a
  >better place.
  >
  >John
  >
  >
  >__ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus 
  >signature database 3401 (20080829) __
  >
  >The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
  >
  >http://www.eset.com

  Tim
  trouble
  "Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance."
  --Sam Brown

  Blindeudora list owner.
  To subscribe or info: http://www.freelists.org/webpage/blindeudora 



   

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] pb-blaster

[Larry Stansifer]

For what it's  worth, I have a Bostich pneumatic staple gun and a Snap-on
air-hammer and I use   the PB-blaster in both of them. The stapler is about
7 years old and the air-hammer is about 25 years old. You can also purchase
16-OZ bottles of traditional air-tool oil from any of the tool guys.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 3:14 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] pb-blaster


I believe so. I also must replace the very small bottle that came with my 
nailers.
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] pb-blaster


So, is there an oil specifically intended for pneumatic nailers?  I got a 
little bottle of oil with my nailer, but it didn't last long.


Bill Stephan
Kansas Citty MO
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Phone: (816)803-2469

- Original Message - 
From: Lenny McHugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 3:38 pm
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] pb-blaster

> I found the following information on the manufacturer's web site. It 
> is only for rotary type air tools. I suspect it is fantastic for 
> Larry's shop. Sure
> wish it could be used on my pneumatic guns.
> Blaster's Air Tool Conditioner is designed restore and prolongs
> air tool
> life by cleaning, coating and lubricating tools. ATC will break
> loose
> deposits that accumulate over time in air tools. This lubricant
> formulation
> inhibits rust. RPMS return to peak efficiencies. ATC is
> environmentally safe
> and contains no fluorocarbon.
>
>
> Cleaner, Conditioner & Lubricant
>
> Allows calcium, vanish & sludge (built up on veins of tool) to be 
> emulsified
> (liquefied) & exhausted from impact wrenches, drills, grinders, 
> polishers & Sanders.
>
>  a.. Instantly restores (near factory) RPM & torque capacity  b.. 
> Contains fish-eye eliminator  c.. Freeze protection down to -25F
>
> Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and 
> humorous with many resources.
> http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
> Lenny
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to: 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To listen to the show archives go to link 
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=
> view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. 
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
> Various List Members At The Following address: 
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address 
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the 
> following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind
> Handy Man list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links
>
>
>
>



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http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

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If you would like to joi

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Air tool Maintenance

[Larry Stansifer]

Wow, this  is strange... Let me call the NAPA guy I use and get the
PB-Blaster part number. It says for use in air-tools on the can.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 1:18 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air tool Maintenance


Bill, that is the product that I called about. The manufacture thanked me 
for my interest but emphatically stated that they have nothing that can be 
used in pneumatic nailers or riveters.
Lenny

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 3:11 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air tool Maintenance


Lenny and all:
I saved Larry's original post because I keep meaning to buy what he was 
talking about.  Now though, I'm a little confused.  Can we not use the same 
oil for nailers as say wrenches?

Here's Larry's post:
Not certain which list this came from so I will post to both of them. A
question was posed regarding air tool lubrication. I found a product put out
by PB-Blaster that is an air tool oil that does a really nice job. What
makes it really attractive is that it comes in a spray can and is very easy
to shoot a 1/2 second spray into the amflow connector just before you hook
the hose up. The other thing you might consider if you are using your air
tools in an extremely clean environment; around painted surfaces, surfaces
that are about to be painted or around vehicle upholstery you might consider
an inline oiler that hooks directly to your compressor and releases a very
small measured amount of oil into the air flow. The one I have has a
diverter valve on it so that you can select oil or shop air. If I am working
around something that I don't want to run the risk of getting any oil
residue on I will run the tool in oil mode until I am ready to get inside
the car and then simply switch it to shop air for the time I am working in
that environment. Either way you choose to go keep those tools lubricated
and they will probably out last you. I have a Snap-on IM-51 1/2" drive short
shank impact wrench I bought in 1985 and it will still hit an honest 300LBS
on the torque meter using 110 LBS of air pressure.


Bill Stephan
Kansas Citty MO
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Phone: (816)803-2469


- Original Message -
From: Lenny McHugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 1:36 pm
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air tool Maintenance
> Larry, The product I was interested was the pb-blaster that you use. 
> It was a few months ago that you made the post and I have been looking
> for it ever
> since. It is available in our automotive stores since it is
> designed for
> your air impact wrench. I was very interested because you
> mentioned that you
> could give a one second spray. I have to get someone to oil my
> nailers. more
> than one drop and I have oil on my wood. Just thinking about that
> I wonder
> if it would work similar if I purchased the harbor freight air
> pressure can.
> I could put some tool oil in it and pressurize the can and use it
> as an
> aerosol? Think I will get one and first play with spraying water
> to see how
> it comes out.
> I really thought that you had the best idea for my guns and staplers.
>
> Lenny
> - Original Message -
> From: "Larry Stansifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 1:42 PM
> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Air tool Maintenance
>
>
> Lenny,
> I probably should have been more specific This is strictly for the 
> chamberand firing mechanism in that nailer. For general air-tool 
> maintenance I use PB-Blaster's air-tool lubricant. I
> keep both of these products in the shop and if I suggested Brake
> Free for
> general air-tool maintenance it was purely a senior moment.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
> Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 11:34 AM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air tool Maintenance
>
>
> Larry, I have been looking for this product since your post. Today I 
> called the manufacturer to try and locate a local dealer. When I told 
> him what I
> wanted to lubricate, air nailers and staplers, he informed me that
> it is not
>
> recommended for nailers or riveters. He said that they  have too many 
> small parts and o-rings that the product will destroy. I think  he 
> said that the
> product is air tool conditioner and is designed for the air
> wrenches. There
> is actually a warning on the product not to use in nailers. Lenny
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Larry Stansifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, June 1

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Air tool Maintenance

[Larry Stansifer]

Lenny,

The only concern I would have with air-tools around wood is any excess
lubricant coming out of the exhaust port of the tool and getting on your
work, otherwise the PB-blaster should be fine. 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 12:37 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air tool Maintenance


Larry, The product I was interested was the pb-blaster that you use. It was 
a few months ago that you made the post and I have been looking for it ever 
since. It is available in our automotive stores since it is designed for 
your air impact wrench. I was very interested because you mentioned that you

could give a one second spray. I have to get someone to oil my nailers. more

than one drop and I have oil on my wood. Just thinking about that I wonder 
if it would work similar if I purchased the harbor freight air pressure can.

I could put some tool oil in it and pressurize the can and use it as an 
aerosol? Think I will get one and first play with spraying water to see how 
it comes out.
I really thought that you had the best idea for my guns and staplers.

Lenny
- Original Message - 
From: "Larry Stansifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 1:42 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Air tool Maintenance


Lenny,
I probably should have been more specific This is strictly for the chamber
and firing mechanism in that nailer. For general air-tool maintenance I use
PB-Blaster's air-tool lubricant. I keep both of these products in the shop
and if I suggested Brake Free for general air-tool maintenance it was purely
a senior moment.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 11:34 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air tool Maintenance


Larry, I have been looking for this product since your post. Today I called
the manufacturer to try and locate a local dealer. When I told him what I
wanted to lubricate, air nailers and staplers, he informed me that it is not

recommended for nailers or riveters. He said that they  have too many small
parts and o-rings that the product will destroy. I think  he said that the
product is air tool conditioner and is designed for the air wrenches. There
is actually a warning on the product not to use in nailers. Lenny
- Original Message - 
From: "Larry Stansifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 6:24 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Air tool Maintenance


Not certain which list this came from so I will post to both of them.

A question was posed regarding air tool lubrication. I found a product put
out by PB-Blaster that is an air tool oil that does a really nice job. What
makes it really attractive is that it comes in a spray can and is very easy
to shoot a 1/2 second spray into the amflow connector just before you hook
the hose up. The other thing you might consider if you are using your air
tools in an extremely clean environment; around painted surfaces, surfaces
that are about to be painted or around vehicle upholstery you might consider
an inline oiler that hooks directly to your compressor and releases a very
small measured amount of oil into the air flow. The one I have has a
diverter valve on it so that you can select oil or shop air. If I am working
around something that I don't want to run the risk of getting any oil
residue on I will run the tool in oil mode until I am ready to get inside
the car and then simply switch it to shop air for the time I am working in
that environment. Either way you choose to go keep those tools lubricated
and they will probably out last you. I have a Snap-on IM-51 1/2" drive short
shank impact wrench I bought in 1985 and it will still hit an honest 300LBS
on the torque meter using 110 LBS of air pressure.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Or
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Air tool Maintenance

[Larry Stansifer]

Lenny,
I probably should have been more specific This is strictly for the chamber
and firing mechanism in that nailer.
For general air-tool maintenance I use PB-Blaster's air-tool lubricant. I
keep both of these products in the shop and if I suggested Brake Free for
general air-tool maintenance it was purely a senior moment.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 11:34 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air tool Maintenance


Larry, I have been looking for this product since your post. Today I called 
the manufacturer to try and locate a local dealer. When I told him what I 
wanted to lubricate, air nailers and staplers, he informed me that it is not

recommended for nailers or riveters. He said that they  have too many small 
parts and o-rings that the product will destroy. I think  he said that the 
product is air tool conditioner and is designed for the air wrenches. There
is actually a warning on the product not to use in nailers. Lenny
- Original Message - 
From: "Larry Stansifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 6:24 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Air tool Maintenance


Not certain which list this came from so I will post to both of them.

A question was posed regarding air tool lubrication. I found a product put
out by PB-Blaster that is an air tool oil that does a really nice job. What
makes it really attractive is that it comes in a spray can and is very easy
to shoot a 1/2 second spray into the amflow connector just before you hook
the hose up. The other thing you might consider if you are using your air
tools in an extremely clean environment; around painted surfaces, surfaces
that are about to be painted or around vehicle upholstery you might consider
an inline oiler that hooks directly to your compressor and releases a very
small measured amount of oil into the air flow. The one I have has a
diverter valve on it so that you can select oil or shop air. If I am working
around something that I don't want to run the risk of getting any oil
residue on I will run the tool in oil mode until I am ready to get inside
the car and then simply switch it to shop air for the time I am working in
that environment. Either way you choose to go keep those tools lubricated
and they will probably out last you. I have a Snap-on IM-51 1/2" drive short
shank impact wrench I bought in 1985 and it will still hit an honest 300LBS
on the torque meter using 110 LBS of air pressure.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] power nailer help

[Larry Stansifer]

Jim,

Consider "Break Free CLP," it comes in a spray can with one of those flexi
nozzles and it does a great job of both lubricating and dissolving powder
residue.
It is available in any gun-shop, sporting goods store and even some
independent hardware stores. The small can will probably last the life of
your nailer.
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of cheetah
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 10:54 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] power nailer help


hi I may be able to get a brush in there not sure as the space isn't that
long. and yeah I know about cooking oil, yuck. I was thinking about putting
a little bottle of gun oil in the kit for the nailer. Jim


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] fuel question for the car guys

[Larry Stansifer]

NOT AT ALL...
Be aware of the following correct tire pressure, clean air filter,
unnecessary heavy items in the van, use cruise control whenever feasible,
avoid extremes of braking or acceleration, maintain 65mph on the freeway,
make certain the motor is tuned at factory recommended intervals.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 11:36 AM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] fuel question for the car guys


Hi All,
Just changing mail delivery for all of my lists. We were in Canada for a few

days which brings me to the fuel question.
We have a 2003 Grand Caravan Sport all wheel drive 3.8l. When we first 
purchased it we were getting 13 mpg city and 18 highway. After 1,500 miles I

switched to Mobil one and the gas mileage had an improvement to 15 and 21 
respectively.
At 40,000 miles I switched to the oil supplied by Chrysler because it is 
free as opposed to the $6.50 a quart for the Mobil one and I was considering

trading in the van. The gas mileage dropped to 12.5 city and about 15 
highway. This is using 87 octane and only Gulf, Getty or Gas Way non of 
which use ethanol.
Just for a test I filled up with 89 octane and had a significant mileage 
improvement. The highway mileage is the best I have ever had with 22.4 mpg 
average and 16.2 city. The owners manual states 87 octane. Will I do any 
damage by running the 89?
For the slight cost of 10¢ a gallon more the mileage increase is 
significant.
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous 
with many resources.
http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
Lenny




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Back up warning for a car

[Larry Stansifer]

Tom,

You can purchase a turn-key video system that not only warn you auditorily
it will also show you on an in car monitor what you are about to hit.
The system is activated through the backup light circuit and the transmitter
sends a wireless signal to the monitor inside the car. I have installed a
couple of them on race-car hollers and vacation trailers. Most high end
pickups, SUV's and motor homes come with them as standard equipment. Prices
start around $175 and go up.

HTH

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tom Vos
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 7:45 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Back up warning for a car


A friend has a car that beeps when he is backing up and gets near something.
It even beeps when he backs down the slope of my driveway into the road. Can
that kind of thing be purchased to put on my car that doesn't have it yet?
Blessings, Tom


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Building a car

[Larry Stansifer]

David,
Subscribe to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Most of the hard core car guys hang out over there.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of David Sexton
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 4:26 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Building a car


I took a visit to the local junk yard today. Hundreds upon hundreds of 
cars in all states of repair. Some almost drivable, most in pieces with 
airbags deployed.
I've never been that interested in cars, but this trip through the 
ghosts of autos past has really got me wanting to learn about cars. 
Specifically, I want to rebuild a car using salvaged parts, maybe some 
custom wood paneling since after all I'm coming from a woodworking 
background.
Where do I start?
Are there web pages with howtos and goldmines of information. I need all 
the info I can get about cars, their systems, anything really. I suspect I
have just embarked on a journey that will cost me thousands 
of dollars on new tools and a priceless amount of new knowledge. How about
car mailing lists? Any blind car people in California? David



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[BlindHandyMan] Window calking

[Larry Stansifer]

Hi folks,
 
Ok this weekend's shop improvement project is going to be calking up some
windows in the hot-rod shop.
Is there anything better than good old silicone and how do I get the
finished job to come out looking good? I tried this once before on a couple
of windows in  my rental property and the finished job looked like crap.
 
TNX
 
Larry


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] breaks- question for the car guys

[Larry Stansifer]

Lenny,

My concern is that if the old rotors were bad enough to create a chatter
that the pads themselves may be damaged.
Give it a good 5 or 10 mile test drive and if there any problems at take it
back
Don't buy the crap about old pads needing to seat to new rotors. If it
doesn't feel right it probably isn't. Your other option is just tell them
you want new pads installed from the get-go.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 1:08 PM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] breaks- question for the car guys


I just received a call that the van is ready. The rotors were out of round. 
They replaced both rotors and pads and only charged for the rotors. 




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Jenifer's Air Conditioner

[Larry Stansifer]

Amen Brother,
I was a bit hesitant about mentioning the jumper thing in case somebody got
a wild hair to try it. Frankly I can come up with a number of better ways to
get fried. 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 2:12 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Jenifer's Air Conditioner


Sorry Larry, didn't mean to imply you got ripped off, I figured you would 
be a bit more savvy than that.

Just meant to point out, buyer beware, or repairee beware.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Jenifer's Air Conditioner

[Larry Stansifer]

Don't try this at home kids...
I jumpered the safety circuit on the compressor motor and the damn thing
sounded like it had a hand full of rocks in it just before it popped the
breaker again. I hate messing around with 220V but I hate getting ripped off
even more.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 1:14 PM
To: BlindHandyMan
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Jenifer's Air Conditioner


My brother had a similar issue about two years ago.  The first repair 
person who came out said it was his compressor, and like Larry, told my 
brother it would just be better to purchase a new unit.

My brother didn't like the sound of that, so he called a second repair 
person in.  That guy told him what Donnie's repair person said, it was a 
bad capacitor and replaced it for something like sixty bucks, I really 
don't remember the cost, but needless to say, it was a hell of a lot less 
than a new unit.


-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] air conditioner

[Larry Stansifer]

Jennifer you have either bad news or worse news. There is a safety switch
that will shut down the compressor if the Freon charge drops below a certain
pressure. The worse news is you will experience the same symptoms if the
compressor is shot.
Mine did exactly the same thing a year ago and it was the compressor. With
these modern units about the only way you get a new compressor is attached
to a new unit. Mine was about $3200 installed.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jennifer Jackson
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 12:36 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] air conditioner


I have a forced air central unit and it is not working.  I have a work order
through my so called home warranty that should have a guy here on Monday,
but in the meantime we are really hot.  I thought I would describe the
problem and maybe you all will have a simple answer.  I sure hope so.

It comes on inside and acts normal, just no cold air.  The outside unit will
try to come on and then quits.  We reset the circuit breaker and changed the
fuses in case that did it, but is there something else I could check?


Jennifer
 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [SPAM]Re: [BlindHandyMan] Video Cable

[Larry Stansifer]

I am adding a 20' length of cable to an existing run installed by the cable
company.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tom Hodges
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 7:56 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [SPAM]Re: [BlindHandyMan] Video Cable


Larry, just curious - are you extending the cable from the cable company
prior to the cable box, or are you extending a cable between the cable box
and TV?

 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of David Ferrin
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 10:56 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM]Re: [BlindHandyMan] Video Cable

 

Larry, 20 feet of cable is not a problem so far as signal loss is concerned 
don't worry about that at all. So far as mounting the clips is concerned 
what I do is use a 0.5 inch drywall screw instead of those little nails. I 
can pound them all right, but those tiny things are a hard target to hit.
David Ferrin

When they turn the pages of history, when these days have passed long ago, 
will they read of us with sadness or the seeds that we let grow?
- Original Message - 
From: "Larry Stansifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:larrys%40infowest.com>
com>
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 10:35 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Video Cable

> Hi folks,
>
> I am doing some rearranging and need to run about 20' of video cable
> around
> the perimeter of a room. Obviously this will result in some signal
> degradation.
> 1. Are those video signal amplifiers that Best Buy and Radio Shack 
> advertise
> worth a damn?
>
> 2. How does a guy with big hands that suffers from an advanced case of 
> wrenchitis successfully fasten those tiny little cable clamps to the 
> base-boards. I have the ones that already have the nail inserted in 
> them. When I attempt to hold them in place by hand, the only nail I 
> hit is my finger-nail. I thought about taking a drift punch, squaring 
> up the end and counter-boring the end to accommodate the head of that 
> damn little nail. I also thought about buying one of those spring 
> loaded punches that uses spring tension and an eccentric cam 
> arrangement to deliver the hit to the punch end. I've given it my best 
> shot, now it is your turn.
>
> TNX
>
> Larry
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> blindhandyman- <mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com>
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio
<http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_
page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29>
.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_
position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio. 
> <ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/>
org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. 
> http://www.acbradio
<http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday>
.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
> Various
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws- <http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/>
users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-
<http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/>
archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the 
> following
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws- <http://www.jaws-users.com/> users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman- <mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo>
[EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links
>
>
>

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Send any questions regarding list management to:
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Or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Visit the archives page at the following address
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys

[Larry Stansifer]

Lenny,
Let them know in a nice way that you are aware of the minimum federally
allowed thickness for a brake rotor and yours better not be there.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 7:17 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys


The tires were rotated and balanced. Karen just told me that it is now doing

it at a lower speed 25 mph. Monday it goes to a garage
- Original Message - 
From: "allen dunbar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 7:36 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys


hi blenny when you installed your brakes did you rotate and balance the
tires I had a similar problem and that along with a front end alignment took
care of the vibrations now she is smooth

now there's your weekend project

good luck


Allen
- Original Message - 
From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "handyman-blind" 
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 5:43 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys


> We have a 2003 grand caravan sport all wheel drive. Two weeks ago for 
> inspection it needed breaks at the same time I upgraded the break 
> fluid to dot 5.1 and also had the tires rotated. Now about 45 mph when 
> Karen applies the break she can feel a chatter or vibration. When she 
> first said it was shaking at that speed I thought she lost a balancing 
> weight. I now suspect rotors. Is there anything that can cause a rotor 
> go bad after about two weeks after installing new breaks? The
> vehicle has about 40,000 miles and the rotors were cut around 25,000
> miles.
> Got to get this thing fixed quickly, next week we are taking my grandson
> to
> Canada to see the falls.
> Lenny
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to: 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To listen to the show archives go to link 
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=
> view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. 
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
> Various List Members At The Following address: 
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address 
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the 
> following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links
>
>
>




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Or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
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http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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Or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
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