Re: making things talk Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Blazey products are that way too! A device that holds important data. On Tue, 25 Sep 2007, Dale Leavens wrote: Why in the name of all things do they make stuff with non-customer serviceable battery packs. The Victors did this and one or two others, the Optacon was a wonderful example, a device one came to depend on and you have to ship it away for days and risk loss and all that. Would people accept having to send their glasses away for a week to have them serviced or their hearing aides? Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 2:02 PM Subject: Re: making things talk Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Lenny, Now-a-days the microcontroller would have the eprom built in and they can Code protect the internal memory so you can't copy it. Yep, whenever I seem no user serviceable parts inside, it makes my fingers itch for tools! Like the upcomming talking book digital players from NLS are gonna be great except they have a non user serviceable battery pack! Humbug! Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hitachi D10VH Corded Power Drill Review There is little doubt that I am quite fond of cordless drills. They can go anywhere, most models these days have plenty of power, and they are versatile. But they are still reliant in part on mains power supply to recharge the batteries, and sometimes, a corded drill makes a better option, particularly if you are working where a source of mains power is readily acceptable. I have several corded power drills, and most are larger models I use for heavier drilling or masonry work. After my el-cheapo Chinese brand corded drill died not long ago, I decided I needed a replacement for when I am using portable drills in the workshop (particularly for pocket hole drilling and for pilot holes in mechanical joinery etc. I decided to buy a Hitachi model. Not for any particular reason, and I don't really own any other Hitachi brand tools at present so I thought I would give the brand a try, and at the same time, review this particular model for you guys to see if it is worth grabbing one for your own woodshop! When I looked at the models available, I was after just a basic, smaller, lightweight drill that wouldn't be cumbersome to carry around the shop or heavy to use for continuous workshop drilling use. I also didn't want to pay through the roof for one as funds are not unlimited here, but I decided to go for a mid-priced, basic corded drill and try my luck. The Hitachi D-10VH seemed to tick all the appropriate boxes for my needs, and the feedback on Amazon seemed quite positive from other owners, so I took the plunge. It has since been used in my workshop fairly regularly for the past 3 months. The Hitachi D10VH The first thing that grabbed my attention on the D10VH's description was that it came with a 5-Year home use warranty. Yep, you read right, 5 years. How many tools offer a 5 year warranty period these days? Fair enough, its for home use only, but since my workshop is at home and I don't really undertake woodwork as a commercial business, this was no problem, and a welcome bonus. Usually the warranty period also gives some kind of indication as to how long the manufacturer will think the tool will last. You wont find 5 year warranties on inferior tools because the company would soon go broke replacing or repairing their product if they are likely to die within 1 or 2 years! So here's hoping the 5 year period means I have bought a decent drill with quality components! Ok let's look at the drill itself now. The drill features a 680W 6 Amp (120v) motor which offers a top rotational speed of 2500 RPM. 680W seems more than enough to handle most of my workshop drilling tasks. Because I ensure all my drill bits are kept very sharp, the power requirement of the drill is minimized as the drill bit is cutting very rapidly and without requiring as much power or torque from the drill. Needless to say, with sharp bits I was easily able to drill through wood and metals up to and slightly beyond the described cutting capacity of the drill. These capacities are listed as: Steel: 3/8 (10mm) bit diameter - twist drill bit Wood: 1 (25mm) bit diameter - twist/spade bit Wood: 5/8 (16mm) bit diameter - auger bit The D10VH does not have a hammer drilling action, so it is not really suitable for masonry work. Although it can be done, it may be a little underpowered. Stick to wood and metals to help preserve drill life. The 3/8 (10mm) chuck on the unit I purchased is a keyless variety, meaning no chuck key is required to tighten or release drill bits. Drill bits can be added or removed much faster with the chuck, as it required only your hands as the tool. Some may argue that keyless chucks do not grip the bit as well as keyed chucks, and they are probably right, however, the jaws of a quality keyless chuck are engineered well enough to provide an excellent grip on the bit. I have had no trouble with bits slipping in the chuck jaws if it is properly tightened. Again, sharp drill bits will help reduce slippage in the chuck. You can purchase a version of this drill that does come with a keyed chuck if you wish, although these seem a little harder to find. Of course, the other option is to replace the keyless chuck with a compatible keyed chuck if you wish. But I see no need. The keyless chuck works just fine. There appears to be very little run-out on the drill chuck as well. Most bits spin quite true. The drill is quite compact in size (overall length of just 9 3/8 - 238mm), and it's very light, weighing in at just 3.1lbs (1.4kg). The light weight goes a long way in reducing user fatigue over extended drilling periods. I was able to drill a ton of pocket holes using the drill over the course of an hour or so without my arms and wrists cursing me for hours after. It may not seem to be such a big factor on paper, but in practice, the ergonomics of a tool can make the difference between a good experience, and a bad one. The tool is somewhat meant for single handed use, which is why its
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Triton T8SH Wetstone Sharpener Review Sharpening woodworking tools to a mirror finish, ultra-sharp cutting edge has always been a challenge for the majority of beginning and even intermediate woodworkers, and it generally is not until you see and use a mirror-finish, ultra sharp blade that you realize the difference between a tool that is simply termed sharp, and one that actually IS sharp. Simply grinding a bevel on a tool using your regular dry bench mounted grinder will not give you a truly sharp edge. Likewise, using even a 400 or 800 grit sharpening stone will give you a cutting edge, but it could be so much sharper with further work. The problem is that, up until now, the arsenal of sharpening tools and devices you needed to get a truly sharp edge has cost a small fortune. Sure, there have been cheaper methods like the scary sharp method which uses sandpaper, some glass to mount it on and a fair bit of time, but for the beginning woodworker who may not be clued up on manual sharpening, even that method could seem daunting. There has been for many years a device that has offered woodworkers an easier way to sharpen tools - the wet grinder. Its ability to sharpen tools with virtually no chance of overheating an edge and drawing the temper (weakening the material making it almost useless) is appealing to many. The one particular wet grinding system that has been considered the top of the class for workshop tool sharpening is the Tormek system. Unfortunately, it is rather expensive and not affordable to many woodworkers, particularly those who undertake woodworking on a hobby basis. In more recent years, the Scheppach line of wet grinders has competed with the Tormeks, and at reduced cost. But now a new line of wet grinder is available from Triton (and a similar one from Scheppach) that brings the setup costs down to just a few hundred dollars (as opposed to more than three times this with the Tormek). These low-priced Chinese-made wet grinders may not be European quality, but can they work just as well? We grabbed a Triton T8SH to see if a Chinese made wet grinder could deliver a truly sharp edge with a mirror finish, and most importantly, could slice wood like there was no tomorrow, and be able to be used by a beginner relatively easily with little learning curve. Let's see if the Triton can put some ticks to those issues. The Triton T8SH Wetstone Sharpener On first inspection of the tool, you can see it somewhat resembles that of a Tormek wet grinder. It has a similar large grinding wheel on one side, a leather honing wheel on the other, and a similar looking tool rest. But let's start by looking at the motor... The T8SH features a 120W induction motor. This sounds like quite a small powered motor, but the tool doesn't really require anything larger. The motor spins the wheel at the relatively slow speed of 120 RPM. When you think about a normal high speed dry grinder spinning at over 3000 RPM, 120 RPM seems turtle paced. But, just like the fairy tale, slow and steady wins the race, and this is the idea behind wet grinders. You won't be winning speed records for sharpening a tool on these units, but in the end, you will probably have a far superior cutting edge than one that has just come off a high speed grinder. Cooling fins on the motor casing will help dissipate heat and ensure the motor will not overheat, but there seems little chance of this as I was able to easily touch the motor after use and it didn't feel hot at all. Slightly warm, but that's about it. The controls are child's play with a simple standard green ON and red OFF button. I hope I don't need to explain what they do! However, note that because the aluminum oxide wheel and leather buffing wheel are mounted on the same shaft, both will spin when power is applied, so ensure both wheels are clear of obstacles and that you are not touching or holding either before you power on the grinder. The grinder casing is pressed metal and rather strong. You wont have any trouble with bending or denting it, unless it happens to fall off your worktable or stand you have it sitting on. But rubber feet on all four corners will ensure it won't slide around, even when in use under load. It will tilt or lift before it slides, and if you are tilting or lifting the tool by applying pressure to the wheel via the bevel grinding edge, you are putting too much force on it to start with. The jig guide bar allows you to use a variety of sharpening jigs and a basic straight-edge grinding jig is included in the kit which will allow you to sharpen straight edge tools like chisels and plane blades etc. At time of writing, no other jigs are available from Triton, however, because the guide bar is exactly the same diameter as both the Tormek and Scheppach machines, you can use any of the jigs made for those brands on the Triton unit. With additional jigs, you will be able to sharpen items like scissors, garden tools, woodturning tools (gouges etc),
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Westford Website - http://www.vianet.net.au/~jemal/ Westford Chainsaw Mill Review As woodworkers, we all know that setting up shop can be an expensive and time consuming task. Acquiring all the specialty tools needed to complete a project can mean an investment of many thousands of dollars, and often tens of thousands for the more equipped shops. The next biggest expense is purchasing the raw material to build your projects, and we all know that wood is not getting any cheaper, especially the harder to find or more exotic materials. Even so, plain pine, poplar and other less expensive materials are always slowly rising in price. So how can you acquire some nice wood at much less expense? Invest in your own low cost saw mill of course! Chainsaw mills are becoming very popular among woodworkers who choose to mill their own wood, often for convenience and variety, but more often for cost reasons. Apart from initial setup (purchasing a good chainsaw and a basic mill) it is far cheaper to mill your own wood than to buy pre-milled wood from a supplier. And chainsaw mills are considerably cheaper than larger milling units. Your next biggest challenge will be sourcing the logs to mill! Today we are taking a look at the Westford Mill; a device that attaches to your chainsaw and allows you to mill your own boards and lumber for downed trees or salvaged logs. Selecting a Chainsaw This is a hotly debated topic. Chainsaw milling puts very heavy, constant loads on a chainsaw, so a decent one is required. Depending on the size of log you wish to cut, your choice of saw will vary. The purists will argue that the biggest is always the best, and anything less than a 100cc chainsaw will not be suitable for milling. Personally, I don't agree. I have seen people successfully mill logs with smaller electric chainsaws and saws as small as 40cc. Naturally, cutting with lower power saws does take a lot longer, but smaller saws are less expensive. They are limited in the width of log you can cut too, as they can really only use shorter length chain bars. If you want to cut large diameter logs, you do need quite a big saw to handle them. Most of the logs I cut are not more than 20 inches in diameter. I found a Stihl MS380 saw (72.2cc) on an auction site not long ago brand new for less than half the retail price. I couldn't resist and scooped it up and this is the saw I now use for most of my smaller milling tasks. It has enough power to tackle 18 inch logs without waiting all day to finish a milling pass. Basically, when choosing a chainsaw, go for a name brand (easier to find parts later and they are generally more reliable) and grab the largest one you can afford, but bear in mind that larger saws also weigh a lot more, so you have to balance weight vs practicality and fatigue considerations too. Generally speaking, a basic milling saw should be over 70cc, and larger if you plan to mill wider logs. I'd certainly love a 120cc saw, but I haven't been able to justify the several thousand dollar price tags they come with just yet. The Westford Hobby Mill Chainsaw mills are quite simple devices. In fact, basic versions can be made by anyone with fair metalworking and welding skills. I, personally, crafted one of my own not too long ago using RHS steel. It wasn't the fanciest mill going, but it did an OK job. Now that I am doing a little more milling at home, I went looking for a better, adjustable, easier to use, and more cost effective option. The Westford mill caught my eye. It is similar in overall design to the well-known Alaskan style chainsaw mills (most small portable mills are) but its simplicity is the key to its success. Westford (based in Australia) also make larger mills using the same overall design, so whether you have a 16 inch bar, or a 50+ inch bar, there will be a model to suit. Additionally, if you start out with a smaller mill, you can readily convert it to a larger capacity mill simply by adding longer channel rails to the mill (and perhaps a few extra rail support pieces to maintain rigidity and prevent rail channel flex over the longer span. The biggest advantage of these smaller mills is that they can be taken straight to the log, rather than having to bring the log to a larger stationary mill. This allows you to access fallen logs wherever they drop, as opposed to having large machinery on hand to haul logs to a larger mill located somewhere else. Plus, these mills fit readily into the trunk of any car, but be aware that you might need something larger transport-wise to carry all those nicely slabbed boards/posts back to the shop! The Westford mill is constructed from durable treated materials. Steel components are zinc plated to AS1789 and yellow chromate passivated to AS1791. Castings use aluminum alloy (type 401) and are machined to high finish standards. The handle support bar is galvanized round bar. The unit as a whole is very ridgid and solid, but not cumbersomely heavy as far as mills go.
Re: USB cables RE: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
technically it is true. The better cable, the better the transfer. I use digital audio as a reference. I *Know digital for the 16 bit 44.1 mhz of audio, and higher, will do better with a better cable. But that isn't where most folks are centered. The computer industry surely isn't centered there. It is hard enough to get *real audio folks to get past brand names, to some of the craziest things that you can replicate ; to finding the difference... the idea that a coat hanger is a good audio conducter is still near at hand. As long as Radio Shack sells a cable for less than $5; it is sadly a mute point. Now to the practical, if it is a critical or otherwise high demand app; you'll find that everything from the power supply, to the cards, shielding, and nearly every other point in the *separates used for the job, will be necessarily contributing to the final product. On Wed, 3 Oct 2007, robert moore wrote: Tom If any one says not to use cheepies unless over a long distance? Correct me if I am wrong but as a general principle if quality is a concern would you not think that the longer the travle data has to go the more you might be concerned about the quality that is needed to cary the data? I am not an electronics guy but it just seems logical. Robert -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Fowle Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 6:07 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review I picked up a little pack including a so-called USB A to A cable and a set of adaptors from USB A to several things. This was at a local Big Lots store and didn't cost more than a few bucks. Anybody tells you not to use cheap USB cables, unless over a very long distance, is nuts, cheapies work fine. tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: USB cables RE: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
robert, I think Tom meant that cheap USB cables are just fine to use unless you are going long distances, in which case you want more expensive cables. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: USB cables RE: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Yeah, and he's got a bar in his house too. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- .From: Dan Rossi[EMAIL PROTECTED] .Sent: 10/4/07 9:03:31 AM .To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com .Subject: Re: USB cables RE: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review . .robert, . .I think Tom meant that cheap USB cables are just fine to use unless you .are going long distances, in which case you want more expensive cables. . . .-- .Blue skies. .Dan Rossi .Carnegie Mellon University. .E-Mail:[EMAIL PROTECTED] .Tel: (412) 268-9081 .
Re: USB cables RE: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Did I say it backwards? I meant, I think, maybe, that cheapie cables are fine except perhaps over long distances. Standing on it's little blind head. Tom
RE: USB cables RE: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Tom So just to clarify for me and others that are not that knowledgeable about elictronics. Would it be true that the longer the distance data has to travel the more important quality of wire needed, becomes? -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Fowle Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 12:45 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: USB cables RE: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Did I say it backwards? I meant, I think, maybe, that cheapie cables are fine except perhaps over long distances. Standing on it's little blind head. Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: USB cables RE: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
robert, yep, the quality of the insulation is probably more important than that of the wire its self but that's nit picking. I think the USB limit is fifteen feet anyhow, so I doubt cables matter much in that length. Depending on the type of signal being sent, there are all kinds of issues that need considering like impedance of the cable, capacitance and inductance shielding etc. Of all of these, probably the actual metal that makes up the wire is least important as long as its copper. Silver plating only matters for corosionresistance unless you're into extremely high frequencies say microwaves,which USB ain't. Tom
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
One question, why a serial port? Most computers today are usb or fire wire. At 06:13 PM 9/25/2007, you wrote: Hi Tom, Surely there is a more convenient and economical way of doing this than an outboard synth? I mean, there will have to be some supporting electronics to drive a serial port already. If a tire gauge can talk for ten bucks and a glucometer for 30 bucks and a multifunction multimeter for 40 bucks and some of those clocks for under 20 bucks then how difficult can it be? Certainly there is a cost/volume issue and I expect he already has quite a bit tied up in current development and production. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada mailto:DLeavens%40puc.net[EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 6:26 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review I've had a reply from Barry Wixey and he seems pretty positive. His plan would be to add a serial port at a standard baud rate etc. so folks with speech enabled portable computers, BNS and the like should have no problem accessing it. He's a mechanical guy so depends on chinese electrical engineers' and is struggling just to pay the bills, so much overhead isn't desirable Will keep you all posted as things move along. Tom P.S. don't have a BNS or similar, buy a doubletalk LT I'd push for a setup that'd hook directly to such a synthesizer. cause you can buy one right now. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
I have a digital camera that plugs into the USB port. I have seen others. The other end of the cable is a tiny version of the USB connector. I don't know if the little end has been standardized yet or if each manufacturer uses their own standard. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 3:07 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review USb host ports are, so far, rare on small devices. There are two types of USB ports, host and client. Client ports are like on printers scanners synthesizers et. Host ports are on computers. You must have one of each to make a connection. So far as I know host ports are rare on small devices as they require a lot of software support. Tom To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information: http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.0/1046 - Release Date: 10/3/2007 10:08 AM
RE: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Max The Client end of the USB cables have not been standardized. I only know this because my Wife has a Digital Camera and a digital cam corder and we have a all in one office machine and all three of them have a different type client end. That would be nice if they did standerdise them, and some day maybe they will. If they did and one cable went bad you could always just grab another one. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Max Robinson Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 5:07 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review I have a digital camera that plugs into the USB port. I have seen others. The other end of the cable is a tiny version of the USB connector. I don't know if the little end has been standardized yet or if each manufacturer uses their own standard. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:max%40maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:funwithtubes-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:fowle%40ski.org To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 3:07 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review USb host ports are, so far, rare on small devices. There are two types of USB ports, host and client. Client ports are like on printers scanners synthesizers et. Host ports are on computers. You must have one of each to make a connection. So far as I know host ports are rare on small devices as they require a lot of software support. Tom To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information: http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.com Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.0/1046 - Release Date: 10/3/2007 10:08 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
I picked up a little pack including a so-called USB A to A cable and a set of adaptors from USB A to several things. This was at a local Big Lots store and didn't cost more than a few bucks. Anybody tells you not to use cheap USB cables, unless over a very long distance, is nuts, cheapies work fine. tom
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Max, there about 4 standard connectors. That means your camera has an USB client port and the host is on the computer The only good thing about standards is that there are so many to choose from! Tom
USB cables RE: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Tom If any one says not to use cheepies unless over a long distance? Correct me if I am wrong but as a general principle if quality is a concern would you not think that the longer the travle data has to go the more you might be concerned about the quality that is needed to cary the data? I am not an electronics guy but it just seems logical. Robert -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Fowle Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 6:07 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review I picked up a little pack including a so-called USB A to A cable and a set of adaptors from USB A to several things. This was at a local Big Lots store and didn't cost more than a few bucks. Anybody tells you not to use cheap USB cables, unless over a very long distance, is nuts, cheapies work fine. tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Dear Dale: I am just now in the market for a talking glucometer, and when I saw your comment about a thirty dollar glucometer, my interest was peaked. Could you give me the name of this meter? I own an older model which cost ten times that much, but it has developed problems and I thought I would check around for a more modern unit and hopefully one which will allow me to avoid sticking the fingers. Yours Truly, Clifford Wilson - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 9:13 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Hi Tom, Surely there is a more convenient and economical way of doing this than an outboard synth? I mean, there will have to be some supporting electronics to drive a serial port already. If a tire gauge can talk for ten bucks and a glucometer for 30 bucks and a multifunction multimeter for 40 bucks and some of those clocks for under 20 bucks then how difficult can it be? Certainly there is a cost/volume issue and I expect he already has quite a bit tied up in current development and production. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 6:26 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review I've had a reply from Barry Wixey and he seems pretty positive. His plan would be to add a serial port at a standard baud rate etc. so folks with speech enabled portable computers, BNS and the like should have no problem accessing it. He's a mechanical guy so depends on chinese electrical engineers' and is struggling just to pay the bills, so much overhead isn't desirable Will keep you all posted as things move along. Tom P.S. don't have a BNS or similar, buy a doubletalk LT I'd push for a setup that'd hook directly to such a synthesizer. cause you can buy one right now. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ NOD32 2551 (20070926) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: making things talk Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Lenny, Now-a-days the microcontroller would have the eprom built in and they can Code protect the internal memory so you can't copy it. Yep, whenever I seem no user serviceable parts inside, it makes my fingers itch for tools! Like the upcomming talking book digital players from NLS are gonna be great except they have a non user serviceable battery pack! Humbug! Tom
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
A few years ago a lot of people tried to promote a universal consumer electronics bus, they had a mess of perfectly usable standards for communicating between various appliances etc. It would have been a great thing for us as many devices would have been remotely readable and controllable. But guess who, the lawyers decided there would be too much liability fuss between manufacturers and vendors of third party equipment, so the idea died. If all the promises of internet accessible appliances ever happen, it might really help, but I ain't holdin my breath. Tom
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
My wife, who is also blind, has and really likes one of those robotic vacuums. It makes a lot of sense for us, since if you use it frequently, you're probably going to get better coverage than a blink with an upright would, and it does seem to keep floors quite clean and presentable. This thing finds its own charger and docks with it. That usually is fine, but if for some reason you have to manually dock it, there's no way in hell you can tell if it's charging or not. And, that means it dies somewhere, and we have to talk one of the dogs (usually hers) into finding the thing. The thing plays all manner of little distress tunes when it's tired, when it's stuck, when whatever, and it surely would be a simple thing to just have it beep when the charging circuit closed. I know my wife's talked about that with the vendor so maybe the next release will have that feature. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- .From: Tom Fowle[EMAIL PROTECTED] .Sent: 9/25/07 1:06:09 PM .To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com .Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review . .A few years ago a lot of people tried to promote a universal consumer electronics .bus, they had a mess of perfectly usable standards for communicating between .various appliances etc. It would have been a great thing for us as many devices .would have been remotely readable and controllable. . .But guess who, the lawyers decided there would .be too much liability fuss between manufacturers and vendors .of third party equipment, so the idea died. . .If all the promises of internet accessible appliances ever happen, it might .really help, but I ain't holdin my breath. . .Tom . .
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
o if they could get it to talk! On Sun, 23 Sep 2007, Boyce, Ray wrote: Wixey Website - http://www.wixey.com Digital Angle Gauge Wixey Digital Angle Gauge Review The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge has been a welcome addition to the woodworkers tool kit for machine setup and accuracy. These new angle measuring tools are simple to use, and best of all, very cost effective. Let's take a closer look... The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge This small tool measures just 2 x 2 x 1.3 deep and is constructed with a combination of hardened plastic (front and back faces) and aluminum casing It runs off a small 3.0v CR2032 button-type watch battery and the battery life is promised as being up to 6 months. This is quite reasonable given the size of the battery. In fact, the digital angle gauge is always turned ON, i.e. it is always measuring electronically. It is just the digital display that can be turned off to further extend battery life. The tool features an Auto Shut Off function in case you forget to turn it off. A handy feature for the forgetful among us. The LCD display is clear and easy to read. The gauge has a resolution of 0.1 of a degree, so it will provide sufficient accuracy for just about all woodworking tasks. Certainly more accuracy than you can get by eye, or that provided by most measuring angle tapes or angle scales on power tools, which can be notoriously inaccurate at times, or only marked at 1 degree increments, meaning you have to guess if you want anything finer. Why would you want anything finer? Well, if you get into trim work or cutting for multiple-sided forms, then less than 1 degree accuracy can mean the difference between roughly acceptable and perfection. I know which I would choose if both options are readily available! Accuracy is specified at +/- 0.1 degrees as well. On the bottom of the unit are three small round magnets. These allow the gauge to attach securely to any magnetic surface, which means most tool table tops (unless they are aluminum), all steel body cutting blades, and most tool fences. If you have all cast iron tool surfaces, you will have no issues at all attaching the tool securely. But what if you have a basic table saw with an aluminum table surface, like a job-site saw for example? Well, you can just sit the gauge directly on top of the table, magnetic or not. You do need to provide a reference surface to measure off for accurate angle readouts, so the tool is generally set flat on the table first, zeroed, then set of the saw blade body, and you will have no trouble attaching to the blade (since most are steel bodied), no matter what type of table surface you have. Below the LCD display are two buttons, and this alone signifies the simplicity of this tool, and equally, how easily it is to use. The ON/OFF button turns the display on or off... simple. The ZERO button zeroes the tool to the surface it is currently rested on, or magnetically attached to. As mentioned above, the general procedure for accurate angle measurement is to zero the tool on the static reference surface, i.e. the surface that will not move (generally the tool table) then place the Wixey gauge on the blade or secondary surface that does move to set your angle, or correct a badly set angle! So how does it actually work? Well the best description of the science behind it is given by the manufacturer... How does it read? All of our readouts use what's called capacitive measuring technology. This is the exact same system that is used in almost all digital calipers that have been on the market for at least 20 years. There is a circuit board on a rotating counterweight that has a repeating pattern etched on it. There is a second fixed circuit board with a similar pattern and the rest of the electronics. As the 2 patterns pass over each other there is an electronic signal generated that is converted to rotation angle. The only moving part is the circuit board with counterweight passing over the fixed circuit board. There is no electrical connection between the 2 circuits boards and they do not even touch each other. There are no other mechanical moving parts. The good thing is that you don't even have to worry about all the scientific and electronics jargon to make use of the tool! The gauge also has a huge working range of 150 degrees, but rarely will you require more than 90 degree range in the woodshop. In Use The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge is a great tool for workshop machine and tool setup. It can be used to set table saw blades square to the table, or to set virtually any angle to make perfect bevel angle cuts. On the miter saw, you can again set the blade square to the table for accurate and square crosscuts, or set the blade at any angle, again, for bevel cuts. You can attach a larger drill bit in the drill press, secure the angle gauge to the bit and check how square
Re: making things talk Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Why in the name of all things do they make stuff with non-customer serviceable battery packs. The Victors did this and one or two others, the Optacon was a wonderful example, a device one came to depend on and you have to ship it away for days and risk loss and all that. Would people accept having to send their glasses away for a week to have them serviced or their hearing aides? Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 2:02 PM Subject: Re: making things talk Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Lenny, Now-a-days the microcontroller would have the eprom built in and they can Code protect the internal memory so you can't copy it. Yep, whenever I seem no user serviceable parts inside, it makes my fingers itch for tools! Like the upcomming talking book digital players from NLS are gonna be great except they have a non user serviceable battery pack! Humbug! Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
I've had a reply from Barry Wixey and he seems pretty positive. His plan would be to add a serial port at a standard baud rate etc. so folks with speech enabled portable computers, BNS and the like should have no problem accessing it. He's a mechanical guy so depends on chinese electrical engineers' and is struggling just to pay the bills, so much overhead isn't desirable Will keep you all posted as things move along. Tom P.S. don't have a BNS or similar, buy a doubletalk LT I'd push for a setup that'd hook directly to such a synthesizer. cause you can buy one right now.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi Tom, Surely there is a more convenient and economical way of doing this than an outboard synth? I mean, there will have to be some supporting electronics to drive a serial port already. If a tire gauge can talk for ten bucks and a glucometer for 30 bucks and a multifunction multimeter for 40 bucks and some of those clocks for under 20 bucks then how difficult can it be? Certainly there is a cost/volume issue and I expect he already has quite a bit tied up in current development and production. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 6:26 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review I've had a reply from Barry Wixey and he seems pretty positive. His plan would be to add a serial port at a standard baud rate etc. so folks with speech enabled portable computers, BNS and the like should have no problem accessing it. He's a mechanical guy so depends on chinese electrical engineers' and is struggling just to pay the bills, so much overhead isn't desirable Will keep you all posted as things move along. Tom P.S. don't have a BNS or similar, buy a doubletalk LT I'd push for a setup that'd hook directly to such a synthesizer. cause you can buy one right now. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
It is surely true that in theory anything with a digital display could be made to talk. And it is pretty easy when done at design phase rather than a retrofit. Retrofitting used to be a bit easier when stuff had more individual (discrete) parts and they wer larger. Now-a-days everything is done with microcontrollers and/or customized chips and the connections between the chip and display are likely hidden on very densely packed circuit boards. Of course no manufacturer will ever let anybody at the control programs for the microcontrollers to modify them appropriately because they're precious trade secrets! HA If we had a small army of very talented technicians who could reverse engineer devices and do the high skill soldering rework necessary it would be great. such high quality techs are rare and hard to find. and the work is very difficult. Several years ago, a french company manufactured a so-called universal talk box. They had designs for adapting it to a number of VCRs and such. Trouble was they couldn't find or keep people who wanted to do the rework let alone pay them what they were worth. tom Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered
making things talk Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Tom, You are so correct about the new circuits. It brings two stories to mind. I have a friend who has a eprom burner. both he and his brother had the same make and model car. The computer went out on his brother's car. The dealer wanted over $400 for a new computer. My friend took the old one apart and found a eprom inside. He took the good one out of his car and copied it. When put back in his brother's car there was no problem His brother then drove to the dealer and told them not to order the part that he got his fixed for $5.00. The dealer then asked him if he would make a few for the dealership. He just laughed and said NO. Another ham operator friend had a Lincoln and the sensor that automatically turned the lights on died. He looked at it and there was the message stating no user replacement parts inside. He cut the plastic box and found a bad resistor and cap. For a few dollars he repaired the $100+ sensor. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 3:16 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review It is surely true that in theory anything with a digital display could be made to talk. And it is pretty easy when done at design phase rather than a retrofit. Retrofitting used to be a bit easier when stuff had more individual (discrete) parts and they wer larger. Now-a-days everything is done with microcontrollers and/or customized chips and the connections between the chip and display are likely hidden on very densely packed circuit boards. Of course no manufacturer will ever let anybody at the control programs for the microcontrollers to modify them appropriately because they're precious trade secrets! HA If we had a small army of very talented technicians who could reverse engineer devices and do the high skill soldering rework necessary it would be great. such high quality techs are rare and hard to find. and the work is very difficult. Several years ago, a french company manufactured a so-called universal talk box. They had designs for adapting it to a number of VCRs and such. Trouble was they couldn't find or keep people who wanted to do the rework let alone pay them what they were worth. tom Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information: http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
If only the digital output had a standard which got presented to the display. A standard talker interface could then be developed and programmed to use controls as required. One might not want a constant jabbering for example from a constantly changing display but to hear a reading a specific point in time. This is one thing I don't much like about the talking tape measure, I would be quite satisfied to have it speak when I press a button although I suppose if I used it to set a saw guide the babble would be preferable. anyway, a small PROM would serve. A standard card edge. I suppose it is too late to have them retro design for speech but at least they know I am interested and that I communicate with a couple of hundred other blind people some of whom would also be interested. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 3:16 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review It is surely true that in theory anything with a digital display could be made to talk. And it is pretty easy when done at design phase rather than a retrofit. Retrofitting used to be a bit easier when stuff had more individual (discrete) parts and they wer larger. Now-a-days everything is done with microcontrollers and/or customized chips and the connections between the chip and display are likely hidden on very densely packed circuit boards. Of course no manufacturer will ever let anybody at the control programs for the microcontrollers to modify them appropriately because they're precious trade secrets! HA If we had a small army of very talented technicians who could reverse engineer devices and do the high skill soldering rework necessary it would be great. such high quality techs are rare and hard to find. and the work is very difficult. Several years ago, a french company manufactured a so-called universal talk box. They had designs for adapting it to a number of VCRs and such. Trouble was they couldn't find or keep people who wanted to do the rework let alone pay them what they were worth. tom Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Wixey Website - http://www.wixey.com Digital Angle Gauge Wixey Digital Angle Gauge Review The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge has been a welcome addition to the woodworkers tool kit for machine setup and accuracy. These new angle measuring tools are simple to use, and best of all, very cost effective. Let's take a closer look... The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge This small tool measures just 2 x 2 x 1.3 deep and is constructed with a combination of hardened plastic (front and back faces) and aluminum casing It runs off a small 3.0v CR2032 button-type watch battery and the battery life is promised as being up to 6 months. This is quite reasonable given the size of the battery. In fact, the digital angle gauge is always turned ON, i.e. it is always measuring electronically. It is just the digital display that can be turned off to further extend battery life. The tool features an Auto Shut Off function in case you forget to turn it off. A handy feature for the forgetful among us. The LCD display is clear and easy to read. The gauge has a resolution of 0.1 of a degree, so it will provide sufficient accuracy for just about all woodworking tasks. Certainly more accuracy than you can get by eye, or that provided by most measuring angle tapes or angle scales on power tools, which can be notoriously inaccurate at times, or only marked at 1 degree increments, meaning you have to guess if you want anything finer. Why would you want anything finer? Well, if you get into trim work or cutting for multiple-sided forms, then less than 1 degree accuracy can mean the difference between roughly acceptable and perfection. I know which I would choose if both options are readily available! Accuracy is specified at +/- 0.1 degrees as well. On the bottom of the unit are three small round magnets. These allow the gauge to attach securely to any magnetic surface, which means most tool table tops (unless they are aluminum), all steel body cutting blades, and most tool fences. If you have all cast iron tool surfaces, you will have no issues at all attaching the tool securely. But what if you have a basic table saw with an aluminum table surface, like a job-site saw for example? Well, you can just sit the gauge directly on top of the table, magnetic or not. You do need to provide a reference surface to measure off for accurate angle readouts, so the tool is generally set flat on the table first, zeroed, then set of the saw blade body, and you will have no trouble attaching to the blade (since most are steel bodied), no matter what type of table surface you have. Below the LCD display are two buttons, and this alone signifies the simplicity of this tool, and equally, how easily it is to use. The ON/OFF button turns the display on or off... simple. The ZERO button zeroes the tool to the surface it is currently rested on, or magnetically attached to. As mentioned above, the general procedure for accurate angle measurement is to zero the tool on the static reference surface, i.e. the surface that will not move (generally the tool table) then place the Wixey gauge on the blade or secondary surface that does move to set your angle, or correct a badly set angle! So how does it actually work? Well the best description of the science behind it is given by the manufacturer... How does it read? All of our readouts use what's called capacitive measuring technology. This is the exact same system that is used in almost all digital calipers that have been on the market for at least 20 years. There is a circuit board on a rotating counterweight that has a repeating pattern etched on it. There is a second fixed circuit board with a similar pattern and the rest of the electronics. As the 2 patterns pass over each other there is an electronic signal generated that is converted to rotation angle. The only moving part is the circuit board with counterweight passing over the fixed circuit board. There is no electrical connection between the 2 circuits boards and they do not even touch each other. There are no other mechanical moving parts. The good thing is that you don't even have to worry about all the scientific and electronics jargon to make use of the tool! The gauge also has a huge working range of 150 degrees, but rarely will you require more than 90 degree range in the woodshop. In Use The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge is a great tool for workshop machine and tool setup. It can be used to set table saw blades square to the table, or to set virtually any angle to make perfect bevel angle cuts. On the miter saw, you can again set the blade square to the table for accurate and square crosscuts, or set the blade at any angle, again, for bevel cuts. You can attach a larger drill bit in the drill press, secure the angle gauge to the bit and check how square the drill press table is to the drill bit/spindle, or set the table for angled drilling. You can do the same on the bandsaw, setting table square to the blade, or
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
I did write to Beal suggesting they might like to add talking to their device for the use of the blind and in situations where maybe sighted people cannot be in direct line of sight with the device while setting equipment. I think I will find contact information for these guys and write to them as well. I didn't get a reply from Beale for what ever that is worth. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Boyce, Ray To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 6:30 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Wixey Website - http://www.wixey.com Digital Angle Gauge Wixey Digital Angle Gauge Review The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge has been a welcome addition to the woodworkers tool kit for machine setup and accuracy. These new angle measuring tools are simple to use, and best of all, very cost effective. Let's take a closer look... The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge This small tool measures just 2 x 2 x 1.3 deep and is constructed with a combination of hardened plastic (front and back faces) and aluminum casing It runs off a small 3.0v CR2032 button-type watch battery and the battery life is promised as being up to 6 months. This is quite reasonable given the size of the battery. In fact, the digital angle gauge is always turned ON, i.e. it is always measuring electronically. It is just the digital display that can be turned off to further extend battery life. The tool features an Auto Shut Off function in case you forget to turn it off. A handy feature for the forgetful among us. The LCD display is clear and easy to read. The gauge has a resolution of 0.1 of a degree, so it will provide sufficient accuracy for just about all woodworking tasks. Certainly more accuracy than you can get by eye, or that provided by most measuring angle tapes or angle scales on power tools, which can be notoriously inaccurate at times, or only marked at 1 degree increments, meaning you have to guess if you want anything finer. Why would you want anything finer? Well, if you get into trim work or cutting for multiple-sided forms, then less than 1 degree accuracy can mean the difference between roughly acceptable and perfection. I know which I would choose if both options are readily available! Accuracy is specified at +/- 0.1 degrees as well. On the bottom of the unit are three small round magnets. These allow the gauge to attach securely to any magnetic surface, which means most tool table tops (unless they are aluminum), all steel body cutting blades, and most tool fences. If you have all cast iron tool surfaces, you will have no issues at all attaching the tool securely. But what if you have a basic table saw with an aluminum table surface, like a job-site saw for example? Well, you can just sit the gauge directly on top of the table, magnetic or not. You do need to provide a reference surface to measure off for accurate angle readouts, so the tool is generally set flat on the table first, zeroed, then set of the saw blade body, and you will have no trouble attaching to the blade (since most are steel bodied), no matter what type of table surface you have. Below the LCD display are two buttons, and this alone signifies the simplicity of this tool, and equally, how easily it is to use. The ON/OFF button turns the display on or off... simple. The ZERO button zeroes the tool to the surface it is currently rested on, or magnetically attached to. As mentioned above, the general procedure for accurate angle measurement is to zero the tool on the static reference surface, i.e. the surface that will not move (generally the tool table) then place the Wixey gauge on the blade or secondary surface that does move to set your angle, or correct a badly set angle! So how does it actually work? Well the best description of the science behind it is given by the manufacturer... How does it read? All of our readouts use what's called capacitive measuring technology. This is the exact same system that is used in almost all digital calipers that have been on the market for at least 20 years. There is a circuit board on a rotating counterweight that has a repeating pattern etched on it. There is a second fixed circuit board with a similar pattern and the rest of the electronics. As the 2 patterns pass over each other there is an electronic signal generated that is converted to rotation angle. The only moving part is the circuit board with counterweight passing over the fixed circuit board. There is no electrical connection between the 2 circuits boards and they do not even touch each other. There are no other mechanical moving parts. The good thing is that you don't even have to worry about all the scientific and electronics jargon to make use of the tool
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi Dale Yes just with a little modifications they could produce tools that the blind and poor sighted could use. I post these tool reviews knowing that they are of no use to you and me but to let members know what is available and then it is up to that individual to make their own judgements on purchase. - Original Message - Regards Ray From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 10:06 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review I did write to Beal suggesting they might like to add talking to their device for the use of the blind and in situations where maybe sighted people cannot be in direct line of sight with the device while setting equipment. I think I will find contact information for these guys and write to them as well. I didn't get a reply from Beale for what ever that is worth. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Boyce, Ray To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 6:30 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Wixey Website - http://www.wixey.com Digital Angle Gauge Wixey Digital Angle Gauge Review The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge has been a welcome addition to the woodworkers tool kit for machine setup and accuracy. These new angle measuring tools are simple to use, and best of all, very cost effective. Let's take a closer look... The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge This small tool measures just 2 x 2 x 1.3 deep and is constructed with a combination of hardened plastic (front and back faces) and aluminum casing It runs off a small 3.0v CR2032 button-type watch battery and the battery life is promised as being up to 6 months. This is quite reasonable given the size of the battery. In fact, the digital angle gauge is always turned ON, i.e. it is always measuring electronically. It is just the digital display that can be turned off to further extend battery life. The tool features an Auto Shut Off function in case you forget to turn it off. A handy feature for the forgetful among us. The LCD display is clear and easy to read. The gauge has a resolution of 0.1 of a degree, so it will provide sufficient accuracy for just about all woodworking tasks. Certainly more accuracy than you can get by eye, or that provided by most measuring angle tapes or angle scales on power tools, which can be notoriously inaccurate at times, or only marked at 1 degree increments, meaning you have to guess if you want anything finer. Why would you want anything finer? Well, if you get into trim work or cutting for multiple-sided forms, then less than 1 degree accuracy can mean the difference between roughly acceptable and perfection. I know which I would choose if both options are readily available! Accuracy is specified at +/- 0.1 degrees as well. On the bottom of the unit are three small round magnets. These allow the gauge to attach securely to any magnetic surface, which means most tool table tops (unless they are aluminum), all steel body cutting blades, and most tool fences. If you have all cast iron tool surfaces, you will have no issues at all attaching the tool securely. But what if you have a basic table saw with an aluminum table surface, like a job-site saw for example? Well, you can just sit the gauge directly on top of the table, magnetic or not. You do need to provide a reference surface to measure off for accurate angle readouts, so the tool is generally set flat on the table first, zeroed, then set of the saw blade body, and you will have no trouble attaching to the blade (since most are steel bodied), no matter what type of table surface you have. Below the LCD display are two buttons, and this alone signifies the simplicity of this tool, and equally, how easily it is to use. The ON/OFF button turns the display on or off... simple. The ZERO button zeroes the tool to the surface it is currently rested on, or magnetically attached to. As mentioned above, the general procedure for accurate angle measurement is to zero the tool on the static reference surface, i.e. the surface that will not move (generally the tool table) then place the Wixey gauge on the blade or secondary surface that does move to set your angle, or correct a badly set angle! So how does it actually work? Well the best description of the science behind it is given by the manufacturer... How does it read? All of our readouts use what's called capacitive measuring technology. This is the exact same system that is used in almost all digital calipers that have been on the market for at least 20 years. There is a circuit board on a rotating counterweight that has a repeating pattern etched on it. There is a second
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Ray, Make no mistake,I meant no criticism. There is always something to be learned. I just thought I would highlight one channel we now have, and easily have with the accessibility of the Internet and e-mail. I very much doubt it ever occurred to any of these people to make their tools talk or in some other way accommodate us and it could be added so cheaply. Even if they chose to make a second line half an inch thicker these days the cost would be minimal. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Ray Boyce To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 8:42 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Hi Dale Yes just with a little modifications they could produce tools that the blind and poor sighted could use. I post these tool reviews knowing that they are of no use to you and me but to let members know what is available and then it is up to that individual to make their own judgements on purchase. - Original Message - Regards Ray From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 10:06 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review I did write to Beal suggesting they might like to add talking to their device for the use of the blind and in situations where maybe sighted people cannot be in direct line of sight with the device while setting equipment. I think I will find contact information for these guys and write to them as well. I didn't get a reply from Beale for what ever that is worth. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Boyce, Ray To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 6:30 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Wixey Website - http://www.wixey.com Digital Angle Gauge Wixey Digital Angle Gauge Review The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge has been a welcome addition to the woodworkers tool kit for machine setup and accuracy. These new angle measuring tools are simple to use, and best of all, very cost effective. Let's take a closer look... The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge This small tool measures just 2 x 2 x 1.3 deep and is constructed with a combination of hardened plastic (front and back faces) and aluminum casing It runs off a small 3.0v CR2032 button-type watch battery and the battery life is promised as being up to 6 months. This is quite reasonable given the size of the battery. In fact, the digital angle gauge is always turned ON, i.e. it is always measuring electronically. It is just the digital display that can be turned off to further extend battery life. The tool features an Auto Shut Off function in case you forget to turn it off. A handy feature for the forgetful among us. The LCD display is clear and easy to read. The gauge has a resolution of 0.1 of a degree, so it will provide sufficient accuracy for just about all woodworking tasks. Certainly more accuracy than you can get by eye, or that provided by most measuring angle tapes or angle scales on power tools, which can be notoriously inaccurate at times, or only marked at 1 degree increments, meaning you have to guess if you want anything finer. Why would you want anything finer? Well, if you get into trim work or cutting for multiple-sided forms, then less than 1 degree accuracy can mean the difference between roughly acceptable and perfection. I know which I would choose if both options are readily available! Accuracy is specified at +/- 0.1 degrees as well. On the bottom of the unit are three small round magnets. These allow the gauge to attach securely to any magnetic surface, which means most tool table tops (unless they are aluminum), all steel body cutting blades, and most tool fences. If you have all cast iron tool surfaces, you will have no issues at all attaching the tool securely. But what if you have a basic table saw with an aluminum table surface, like a job-site saw for example? Well, you can just sit the gauge directly on top of the table, magnetic or not. You do need to provide a reference surface to measure off for accurate angle readouts, so the tool is generally set flat on the table first, zeroed, then set of the saw blade body, and you will have no trouble attaching to the blade (since most are steel bodied), no matter what type of table surface you have. Below the LCD display are two buttons, and this alone signifies the simplicity of this tool, and equally, how easily it is to use
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi Dale and all, Quite a few years ago I had a friend who was a Burroughs's computer field engineer. Joe worked on the system that I programmed. Joe was a super sharp individual and he told me that anything that has a digital output display he could make it talk. Joe passed away nearly 20 years ago. If he could do it then it should be much easier now. Sure miss Joe LaBrine, may he rest in peace. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 9:33 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Ray, Make no mistake,I meant no criticism. There is always something to be learned. I just thought I would highlight one channel we now have, and easily have with the accessibility of the Internet and e-mail. I very much doubt it ever occurred to any of these people to make their tools talk or in some other way accommodate us and it could be added so cheaply. Even if they chose to make a second line half an inch thicker these days the cost would be minimal. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Ray Boyce To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 8:42 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Hi Dale Yes just with a little modifications they could produce tools that the blind and poor sighted could use. I post these tool reviews knowing that they are of no use to you and me but to let members know what is available and then it is up to that individual to make their own judgements on purchase. - Original Message - Regards Ray From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 10:06 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review I did write to Beal suggesting they might like to add talking to their device for the use of the blind and in situations where maybe sighted people cannot be in direct line of sight with the device while setting equipment. I think I will find contact information for these guys and write to them as well. I didn't get a reply from Beale for what ever that is worth. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Boyce, Ray To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 6:30 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Wixey Website - http://www.wixey.com Digital Angle Gauge Wixey Digital Angle Gauge Review The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge has been a welcome addition to the woodworkers tool kit for machine setup and accuracy. These new angle measuring tools are simple to use, and best of all, very cost effective. Let's take a closer look... The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge This small tool measures just 2 x 2 x 1.3 deep and is constructed with a combination of hardened plastic (front and back faces) and aluminum casing It runs off a small 3.0v CR2032 button-type watch battery and the battery life is promised as being up to 6 months. This is quite reasonable given the size of the battery. In fact, the digital angle gauge is always turned ON, i.e. it is always measuring electronically. It is just the digital display that can be turned off to further extend battery life. The tool features an Auto Shut Off function in case you forget to turn it off. A handy feature for the forgetful among us. The LCD display is clear and easy to read. The gauge has a resolution of 0.1 of a degree, so it will provide sufficient accuracy for just about all woodworking tasks. Certainly more accuracy than you can get by eye, or that provided by most measuring angle tapes or angle scales on power tools, which can be notoriously inaccurate at times, or only marked at 1 degree increments, meaning you have to guess if you want anything finer. Why would you want anything finer? Well, if you get into trim work or cutting for multiple-sided forms, then less than 1 degree accuracy can mean the difference between roughly acceptable and perfection. I know which I would choose if both options are readily available! Accuracy is specified at +/- 0.1 degrees as well. On the bottom of the unit are three small round magnets. These allow the gauge to attach securely to any magnetic surface, which means most tool table tops (unless they are aluminum), all steel body cutting blades, and most tool fences. If you have all cast iron tool surfaces, you will have no issues at all attaching the tool securely. But what if you have a basic table saw with an aluminum table surface, like a job-site saw
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Well you know the talking multimeter is reasonable, I have a talking glucometer they charged 30 bucks for mind you they get you on the test strips and we have talking clocks and tire gauges for under ten bucks! These things just need to speak numbers, the logic required is minimal, just select a memory location on a chip corresponding to the display reading and send it out through a little amplifier and speaker.I'll bet there are a dozen manufacturers who make probably a single integrated chip with the logic and amplifier on it and a socket for what ever digitized phrases one requires. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 11:31 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Hi Dale and all, Quite a few years ago I had a friend who was a Burroughs's computer field engineer. Joe worked on the system that I programmed. Joe was a super sharp individual and he told me that anything that has a digital output display he could make it talk. Joe passed away nearly 20 years ago. If he could do it then it should be much easier now. Sure miss Joe LaBrine, may he rest in peace. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 9:33 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Ray, Make no mistake,I meant no criticism. There is always something to be learned. I just thought I would highlight one channel we now have, and easily have with the accessibility of the Internet and e-mail. I very much doubt it ever occurred to any of these people to make their tools talk or in some other way accommodate us and it could be added so cheaply. Even if they chose to make a second line half an inch thicker these days the cost would be minimal. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Ray Boyce To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 8:42 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Hi Dale Yes just with a little modifications they could produce tools that the blind and poor sighted could use. I post these tool reviews knowing that they are of no use to you and me but to let members know what is available and then it is up to that individual to make their own judgements on purchase. - Original Message - Regards Ray From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 10:06 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review I did write to Beal suggesting they might like to add talking to their device for the use of the blind and in situations where maybe sighted people cannot be in direct line of sight with the device while setting equipment. I think I will find contact information for these guys and write to them as well. I didn't get a reply from Beale for what ever that is worth. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Boyce, Ray To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 6:30 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Wixey Website - http://www.wixey.com Digital Angle Gauge Wixey Digital Angle Gauge Review The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge has been a welcome addition to the woodworkers tool kit for machine setup and accuracy. These new angle measuring tools are simple to use, and best of all, very cost effective. Let's take a closer look... The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge This small tool measures just 2 x 2 x 1.3 deep and is constructed with a combination of hardened plastic (front and back faces) and aluminum casing It runs off a small 3.0v CR2032 button-type watch battery and the battery life is promised as being up to 6 months. This is quite reasonable given the size of the battery. In fact, the digital angle gauge is always turned ON, i.e. it is always measuring electronically. It is just the digital display that can be turned off to further extend battery life. The tool features an Auto Shut Off function in case you forget to turn it off. A handy feature for the forgetful among us. The LCD display is clear and easy to read. The gauge has a resolution of 0.1 of a degree, so it will provide sufficient accuracy for just about all woodworking tasks. Certainly more accuracy than you can get by eye, or that provided by most measuring angle tapes
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Beall Website - http://www.bealltool.com The Tilt box Review Setting up machinery for accurate cutting has always been an ongoing, and sometimes time consuming and painful task, but for fine woodwork where accuracy is paramount, it is a very necessary evil. The woodworker had to have an array of angle setting tools, including squares, gauges and other sorts of paraphernalia to attempt to get that machine cutting the perfect angles need for the job. And then there was the problem of whether your squares and angle measuring tools themselves were accurate, but that's a whole other story! Now a new age of low-cost, high accuracy digital angle gauges are hitting the market, promising fast machine setups with minimal fuss. We will be looking at several on this site, but the first unit we tested was the Tilt Box by the Beall Tool Company. The Beall Tilt Box When I first saw this product advertised, I was quite excited. Setting up tools, particularly the table saw and miter saw for accurate beveled cuts is not the easiest and quickest thing in the world to do, and it is even more difficult when the bevel angle you need is not a common 45 degree. Also, I have also never trusted the hard stop on my table saw trunnion mechanism to always bring me back to 90 degrees (square to the table) after moving it from that setting. The Tilt Box measures 2 3/8 wide, 2 3/8 high and about 1 3/8 deep. It is an all metal body that feels solid and could probably take a few knocks without causing any damage. But naturally, a precision device needs to be well looked after, so hopefully any knocks are purely accidental! The Tilt Box is powered by a standard 9v battery, so there is no need to deal with specialized batteries or battery chargers (unless of course you use rechargeable 9v batteries like I do). But you can always have a spare battery on hand so there is no reason for any down time when using or needing to use the tool. A groovy little Philips head screwdriver comes packaged in the box to allow you to access the battery compartment for battery changes. The front face features a large LCD display which is easily visible and readable from just about any angle. There are only two control buttons on the tool, an ON/OFF button, and a Zero button, which means it is very easy to use (as all good tools should be). I hear you say this is no good for a blind person, but I bring you these tool reviewsso you know what is available then it is up to you if you buy one or not. Ray The Tilt Box is a digital inclinometer, which through some nice electronic gadgetry included inside, allows the user to measure an angle relative to true zero degrees, but it also allows the user to measure angles relative to a zeroed reference surface, which some dial inclinometers cannot do. On each side of the tool are a set of powerful rare earth magnets which grab onto anything metal (including your saw blades and machine fences - unless the fences are aluminum) meaning the unit can sit securely on the blade or fence faces to provide hands free checking. The Tilt box is very accurate, and can decipher angles up to 0.05 degree resolution. This should ensure near perfect angle/bevel setups on a variety of machines. So let's look at how the Tilt Box actually works. Measuring an Angle Using the Tilt Box is very simple. Let's take a table saw setup for example. Firstly to check your blade is square to the table at the 0 degree setting, you first place the Tilt Box on the table surface next to or close to the blade. Hit the Zero button and the Tilt Box zeroes itself, essentially assigning the table a zero degree value. Now you attach the Tilt Box to the blade (raised up on course) using the magnets on the side of the Tilt Box. Ensure the box is sitting on the body of the blade and not resting on any teeth etc. The value on the LCD display will settle after a second or two to provide an accurate reading of the blades angle. If it also reads zero degrees, then the blade is square to the table. The bevel indicator scale on most table saws are not terribly accurate. I mean, they will get you to close to being square at the zero setting, but I found my blade was still off about 0.20 of a degree. May not seem like much, but if you are cutting bevels for an 8 or 12 sided form, those small inaccuracies add up quick around the entire diameter. And besides, if you have invested money in decent machines to undertake more precise cuts with better accuracy and finish, why should you settle for anything less than perfect? Ok, so I discovered my saw blade is not always returning to dead square according to the Tilt Box (even though my bevel scale says it is) so I made a few adjustments to the stop mechanism to remedy this for future cuts. Of course, double checking with the Tilt Box will verify the angle too, and it only takes a second to do. Now, say you want to set the blade at an odd angle, or even a perfect 22.5 degree common angle. You simply follow the same
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Triton Website - http://www.triton.com.au Triton 82mm Planer (TP720) Review At time of writing, I am busily engaged in some renovations of my own home. In particular, replacing some water damaged walls and framing from a non-waterproofed shower that leaked! In addition, I have enclosed an open staircase with a new plaster wall and door frame, ready for a new door to go in any day now. Some of these tasks are ideal for the tool type we are reviewing today, the 82mm power planer. Triton have recently released their handheld power planer, and I have been using it for my renovation work and in the workshop. Let's see what it offers and how it performed for me... The Triton 82mm Planer Firstly, you will instantly recognize that familiar Triton color if you have seen or used Triton tools before. The Triton orange covers most of the body and handles of the planer. All orange components (as seen in the tool photos) are made from hardened plastic, which is fine as these incorporate the main body of the tool and the handles - pretty common material for most tool handles these days. All components affecting accuracy are metal construction for strength and durability. The bases of the planer are cast aluminum and are virtually flat according to my straight edge, which they should be of course! The design of the planer itself is somewhat unremarkable in the sense that it follows the traditional design and shape of most common handheld power planers, however, there are some subtle differences. The first being the front auxiliary handle, which instead of just having the depth adjustment knob as a grip handle, as on many planer designs, there is actually a separate auxiliary handle to provide a better grip on the tool, which also aids in controlling it better (in my opinion). The carry-style front handle design provides the user with a comfortable barrel-type hold on the tool. In fact, it is perhaps the most comfortable planer I have used to date. A rubber overmold on the front handle provides both additional comfort and grip too. The main handle is traditional in design with a carry-style barrel shape with your main power controls on the underside. It too features the rubber overmold on the top side of the handle for user convenience, and added safety. Power controls feature a standard push button trigger plus a trigger release switch to prevent accidental start-up. These are standard fare. The dust collection port is a dual direction port, meaning that it can deflect chips either to the left or right side of the tool, depending on which direction the user has selected via the deflection selector knob located under the front auxiliary handle. This can be handy at times, particularly if you are working in confined spaces. You can easily move the dust extraction to the side of the planer where more room for debris ejection can be provided, or where the debris can be deflected away from the user. However, of course, you really want to catch as much of the chips and dust as possible before it escapes into the immediate environment, particularly if you are working indoors. To do this, you need to attach either a vacuum extraction hose (and unit) - not supplied - or a dust collection bag, which is supplied. Dust and debris ejection from the unit is actually very good, but it is reduced markedly, as you would expect, when the dust bag starts filling up. This is fine, and emptying the bag quickly remedies that problem, however, when planing more than 1mm at a time, a lot of shavings are created which fills up the collection bag quite rapidly. This is not any different from any other planer I have seen, and certainly not a fault of the tool, but if you want consistently effective dust and shaving collection from the planer without frequent bag emptying, consider hook up to a vacuum extraction system with a large capacity collection container when working indoors. The planer is called an 82mm planer because that is the maximum width cut capacity it offers in a single pass. So if you have an 82mm wide or smaller board, door, or whatever else, you can make a planing pass and remove material across the entire surface in one stroke. Planing depth can bet set from 0mm up to a maximum of 2mm per pass. Planing depth is adjusted via the depth adjustment knob located on the front of the tool. When this knob is turned, the height of the front base of the tool is changed. It is lifted up to provide the depth offset to make a depth planing pass in relation to the rear base, which is fixed at the same height as the cutter blade tips. So, only the front section of the base before the blades moves when depth adjustment is changed. This is the standard method of depth control used on most power planers. The adjustment knob will adjust the depth by 0.2mm per indexed turn. Interestingly, the depth adjustment knob shows the adjustment increments in both metric and imperial measures. This is handy if you regularly work with both systems, or
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi All Skil's Octo Sander we're testing Skil's latest multi-finishing sander, the Octo. Over the last couple of months, I've used the Octo to build a new bookshelf and refinish a set of kitchen cabinets. These projects gave me an excellent opportunity to try out the features that make the Octo so unique-its ability to be configured with eight different sanding profiles. With its eight versatile attachments, this compact palm sander adapts to virtually any sanding application. It's a great gadget for do-it-yourselfers who appreciate the convenience of having a single tool for many projects. When sanding hard-to-reach inside corners, the Octo's delta extension provides the sander an additional 4 inches of reach. For tight, unique places on furniture, the finger extension allows the user to sand in areas less than 2 inches wide. The slot attachment smoothes grooves and narrow profiles, and both the inside and outside-corner attachments help clean up the edges of any given workpiece. Most of the attachments mount to a three-position delta pad that maximizes the use of sanding abrasives when sanding corners, and also allows the user to adjust the attachment for a comfortable, ergonomic working position. One of the more unique attachments is the Flexible sander, which uses a pliable strip of canvas that naturally conforms to whatever profile it rides over. When fitted with sandpaper, this is a great attachment for sanding curved profiles or round shapes like dowels and chair legs. This flexible sanding device is the first of its kind that I've seen. As far as ease of use, things couldn't get much simpler, especially for a multi-use tool. Switching the attachments is easy with the tool-free mounting mechanism. The Octo is equipped with a dust canister that helps keep the work area clean. It also has a nice, long cord so you can maneuver the tool with minimal snags. My only complaint was with the adhesive used on the standard delta attachment. The hook surface of the hook-and-loop system came unglued and I had to stick it back together with some Gorilla Glue. This was a minor complaint, though. The sander was in perfect working order as soon as the glue dried, and I haven't had a problem since. For sanding tight flat surfaces or curved edges, there's an attachment for every job. The Octo also features a handy work light. Skil's Octo comes with all eight attachments, a canvas carrying bag and a 32-piece set of sanding abrasives, including 60-, 80- and 120-grit. Skil also sells a sandpaper kit of assorted grits and shapes deigned specifically for the sander's various attachments. With all these features and a suggested retail price of only about $40, the Octo makes a great buy for the do-it-yourselfer. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is. http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi Everyone Tape Tip Mini-Review The humble tape measure is a tool any woodworker, builder or DIY enthusiast cannot do without, and despite new technology in the form of laser measures and the like, the standard tape measure is still the most accurate way to measure distances and lengths. One of the frustrating problems with the standard tape measure design, however, is that it can be difficult to use to measure diagonals accurately or for measuring over long distances. The tip of the tape always manages to stray from where you want it to stay! The new Tape Tip device aims to eliminate many of those frustrations experienced with the standard measure tape. The Tape Tip The Tape Tip is a device which simply hooks on to the tip end of your standard measuring tape and provides a better and more functional holding design then the standard flat metal tip that comes with almost all tape measures. It is constructed from ABS plastic and its arrowhead style design allows it the many versatile functions it offers... To begin with, the Tape Tip includes small small rare earth magnets; two on the top surface and one on the bottom surface. Rare earth magnets are far stronger than standard magnets and provide a great hold on any magnetic metallic surfaces, however, they are added to the Tape Tip primarily to hold the measure tape itself onto the Tape Tip more securely. The arrowhead design provides the means to accurately measure both inside and outside corners of boxes, cabinet carcasses, furniture frames, or any other project where accurate diagonal measuring is required. There are some considerations with using the Tape Tip. For inside corner measurement, the end of lower arrow portion of the Tape Tip is pushed into the inside corner. Because the tape measure end is set back exactly 1 inch from the Tape Tip end, you have to add 1 inch to the final measurement. For outside corner measurements, the tail of the lower arrow tip end sits snugly onto the outside corner, and because this is aligned directly with the measure tape's end, the measurement is read directly from the tape, with no additional length measurement required to be added (see below). For angled corners other than 90 degrees, the top tip of the arrow head is butted against the corner angle and 1 1/2 must be added to the measured length. The Tape Tip can also be used as a marking gauge by reversing the direction of the Tape Tip and adding 1 to the final desired length. A pencil is then butted into the tailside (V-notch end) and the tape body is run against the edge of the material to mark a consistent line. While this works reasonably well, I definitely prefer a regular wooden marking gauge for this task. It can be tricky at times to keep everything running smoothly and squarely against a board edge as the metal tape component of the tape measure itself is not an overly rigid component. However, if you have no other option, it can work ok. Additionally the screw hole in the center of the tape can be used as a pivot point over a nail to use the tool as a rough compass type tool, with the pencil running against the tape measure's body. Again, it works reasonably well, but I do prefer a proper compass for this task. It's just a little easier to use for this task and no need to subtract a 1/4 from the measurement. For measuring long distances, where the end of your tape measure always seems to fall off the edge, and usually when you have arrived at the other end of the length to be measured, the Tape Tips screw hole will accept a countersunk style screw to secure the Tape Tip to the wall or material being measured. The downside is that is leaves a screw hole in your material afterwards. This is ok if you are framing walls or where the hole can be covered easily, but for finished walls or visible finished surfaces, this may not be desirable. But if this can be used, the screw hole fixing is ideal for long distance measuring, especially if there is no-one else to hold that tape end securely! Conclusion For US$3.95, the Tape Tip, in my opinion, is a must-have item for anyone that uses a tape measure. It is perfect for measuring diagonals accurately, something which is essential for quality woodworking and cabinetry or fine furniture and it allows these to be measured much more quickly with very little chance of the tape measure slipping off. The other possibilities for measuring that it offers are a nice bonus, and while not ideal, they simply add to the value for money factor and will come in handy in the absence of dedicated tools for those marking functions. A handy addition to the standard tape measure. Available to Order Online through this Company... Lee Valley Website - http://www.leevalley.com ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi All Veritas Iron-Edge Trimming Plane Review I'll be the first to admit that I am not much of a darkside tool user... that is, I prefer power tools to old-style hand-powered tools. In saying that though, I do not despise these tools, and in fact, I have quite a number of these classic woodworking type tools in my shop, and use them fairly often. I am also the first to admit that some darkside tools simply cannot be matched by powered equivalents for a quick and easy solution to a woodworking problem. The Veritas Iron Edge Trim plane is one of these tools. Veritas Iron-Edge Trimming Plane The iron edge trimming plane is designed to provide a perfect 90 degree edge on boards, or for work on end grain. The planes are available in either a right hand version or a left hand version, depending on your preferred working hand, however, in some situations, where grain direction varies greatly on a particular face, it might be beneficial to use the opposite plane - also, for situations like molding where the plane can go in only one direction due to having only one usable, flat reference face. Ideally you would have both in your workshop, but if the budget does not allow, go for the version to fit your working hand preference. The planes are constructed from durable ductile iron in Canada with the traditional Veritas tools black finish with brass fittings. The right angle working faces of the blades are machined to an exact 90 degree angle, referenced with a machinist's corner. The internal angle has a round relief milled to allow the sharp edge of the board to sit within. The bed angle is set at 12 degrees with the blade skewed to 30 degrees to aid in easier and cleaner end grain work. Because the ductile iron surfaces are prone to rust, they should be initially sealed and regularly maintained with a silicone-free paste wax to prevent moisture/sweat from corroding the working surfaces. The surfaces are treated with a rust preventive out of the box, so the plane arrives in tip top condition, so remove this surface finish with mineral spirits before applying a wax treatment. The wax treatment, once dried and buffed, also reduces surface friction, helping the plane to glide over the wood surface much easier. The design of the tool, with the rounded back to fit comfortably in the palm of the hand provides a natural and correct hold on the tool which results in less user fatigue over extended periods of use. The plane blade is 1/8 thick and available in either O1 or A2 steel at time of purchase. It is 1 1/4 wide to provide a working 1 planing width. The blade is ground to 20 degrees making it most suitable for long grain work, or end grain work on softwoods and is used bevel up. For harder woods, a secondary bevel at 25 degrees or up to 30 degrees may be required for more effective and cleaner planing results. Combined with the blade bed angle of 12 degrees, the effective cutting angle becomes 32 degrees out of the box. The blade is provided ready to use, i.e. it is sharp out of the box, unlike some other planes that ship with blades requiring further honing or even some major grinding to put a suitable edge of the tool. The plane blade supplied passed the paper cut test right out of the box meaning you can get straight to work using the iron-edge plane. Blade adjustment is made via the Adjustment thumb wheel, open but encased somewhat by the rounded back edge of the plane body. This also helps prevent the adjustment wheel being moved or turned accidentally in use. The fine adjustment rod thread means precise blade depth adjustments can be made to produce even the finest semi-transparent wood shavings. The lever cap and brass lever cap knob secure the blade in place once it is properly set. Once the blade is correctly set parallel to the sole (which is quite easy to do by eye), two set screws sitting adjacent to the edge of the blade (one on each side of the blade) can be set to just touch the blade edges. This helps virtually eliminate the chance for the blade to skew or shift sideways when encountering knots or severely cranky grain. It's a basic but well thought-out addition to the tool. In Use Once you have the blade set correctly at the required depth of cut, you can either use the plane in the standard manner by pushing the blade through the wood away from you, or even by pulling the plane toward you across the board. While I prefer the push method, as it just seems more comfortable for me, the pull method works equally well, but requires (obviously) a different grip on the tool. The pull method just didn't seem as comfortable to adopt for me, but your mileage may vary depending on what you are accustomed to and how you work with other planes you may own. The plane works great for finishing edges that come straight off the table saw, and while it can be used to square up handsaw cut edges too, the process will naturally take a little longer. For joining boards to make wider stock, this plane is
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi Everyone Torquata MJ-823 Circle Cutting Guide Review As the saying goes, there are many ways to skin a cat. Well, to be honest, I'm not sure where that saying came from or what it was based on. Regardless, the saying remains true in terms of cutting circles in wood; there are many ways to do it. You can either use a hand saw, a jigsaw, a bandsaw, a router or even a table saw, and I am sure there are even more ways too! Naturally, some methods may require further sanding or work to bring the cut piece to a true circular shape. When trying to cut a circle using a power tool or stationary machine however, often a circle cutting jig is needed. These can be either shop made, or commercially purchased jigs. Having a need to cut a few circles myself recently for a project, I grabbed a Torquata circle cutting guide to help assist with the cutting process. Torquata Circle Cutting Guide The Torquata guide is really a simple kit system, based pretty much on the same adjustable pin system you could make yourself as a jig in the workshop, but if you are like me and prefer the commercial made jigs, then this one is ready to use, and quite flexible, as it can be used on several different machines, whereas many shop-made designs might only be made for a specific tool and cannot be readily converted for use on another. This particular guide is designed for use on stationary saws such as the bandsaw, radial arm saw and table saw. I don't own a radial arm saw, so I tested it and based this review on using the jig on my bandsaw and table saw. The Circle Cutter is designed to cut circles from 3 inches up to 4 feet in diameter. If you want to cut larger circles, you will need to make your own circle cutting jig as this one reaches its limit at the 4 foot mark out of the box. Assembly is quick and painless, and basically involves tapping a few connector pieces into the steel channel sections, and adding a hex nut into one channel to attach the pivot pin. A base clamp is also included, as are instructions for assembling it, but mine came pre-assembled out of the box, so setup time was only about 5 minutes in total. A bag of assorted screws, double-sided tape and other bits and pieces are included and used for special mounting situations (which I will outline shortly). How Does It Work? Long time woodworkers can probably figure out its operation just by looking at the jig assembled. Everything is pretty straight forward actually. I'll start by explaining the process of cutting a circle out using the table saw and the circle cutting jig. Whoa! Hold your horses! Cutting a circle on a table saw! Are you crazy? Despite some common myths (I guess you could call them), cutting circles on a table saw is indeed possible, and can be done safely too with the right procedure and appropriate jig. To set the jig up on the table saw, you firstly place the base clamp in the miter slot of the saw, and align it with the arbor of the table saw. The base clamp fits into position via a hex head screw which screws outward from the base clamps edge to lock in place against the edge of the miter slot. It is designed to fit standard 3/4 x 3/8 miter slots but there is some tolerance either way for slightly smaller or wider miter slots. The main channel (which is the longer piece of channel) then slides into the groove in the top of the base clamp, and is secured by two screw and washer assemblies on either side of the channel with the support arm channel (the shorter of the channel lengths - which is actually made up of two joined channels) situated close to the blade. Perhaps one of my criticisms of the base clamp is that it can be difficult to lock it firmly enough in place, as the adjustment screw sits under the clamp, and when mounted in the miter slot, the adjustment screw is not really accessible. The best you can get is a solid friction fit, and for most tasks, this should suffice. However, if you have a couple of miter slot stops which can be secured into the miter slot on either side of the base clamp, you can really lock the base clamp and jig into the slot very securely. Now, depending on what diameter circle you wish to cut the procedure to use with the jig differs. For circles up to 12 in diameter, the pivot pin (located in the main channel) is secured as close to the support arm channel as possible and secured in place. The main channel then slides on the base clamp left or right (closer or further) from the blade to adjust the radius of the circle being cut. For circles larger than 12 in diameter, the support arm is moved and positioned as close to the base clamp as possible (i.e. away from the blade) and secured. The pivot pin is then moved along the main channel to set the desired radius for the jig. There are special support situations for circles less than 6 in diameter (where a special nylon knob is attached to the workpiece to keep fingers away from the blade, and for circles larger than 24 in diameter where a support leg
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi Everyone Pacific Saw Blades - http://www.pacificsawblades.com Review Pacific Saw Blades is an emerging entity in the woodworking arena, producing a range of sawing blade products, as well as planer knives for the growing woodworking market. The company is not new to manufacture of such products however. They have been producing steel products for over 40 years! We decided to take a look at several of Pacific's new blade products to see how they rate with other well established brand names currently dominating the market. The Blades... For this review, we chose three different types of blades, and those which you might find in use in woodworker's shops for specialized cuts. The three blades we have been using, and featured in this review are as follows: * 10 24 tooth flat top grind ripping blade * 10 50 tooth combination blade * 10 80 tooth (crosscut) miter blade Each saw blade features common components. To begin with, all blades are marked as Made in Thailand, however, we are told that the steel used in the blade bodies comes direct from Germany and is of high quality - hardened to 42-HRC. The tungsten carbide used on the blade teeth originates in Luxembourg and is HC-10 graded. The manufacturer's goal (in their own words) is to bring the highest quality tools to the woodworking industry at a very reasonable cost. Additionally, they note that they do not produce a budget line of saw blades as other manufacturers do, because they wish to produce only top quality blades, so let's find out if they do indeed reach their goal. 10 24 Tooth Ripping Blade The first blade we tested is the 24 tooth rip blade. Designed, obviously, to make rip cutting more efficient and use to make rip cuts where the teeth cut parallel with the lumber's grain direction, as opposed to across it, which is a crosscut. Rip cutting is generally easier on the saw and blade as the wood fibers tend to peel away. The blade can afford less teeth as these longer cut fibers often need extra space between the teeth (wider gullets) to clear the larger debris that results in such a cut, and rip cuts are usually further machined for smoothness (often on a jointer) for follow-up joinery, so a perfect cut is not often essential straight off the saw. Gullet depth is also important in rip cuts when moving the material fast through the blade. Deeper gullets provide more space for debris removal. More teeth on the blade generally means a smoother cut, less teeth a faster cut. Using a dedicated ripping blade for rip cutting makes the cut process faster. The Pacific Saw Blade's 10 rip blade features 24 Tungsten Carbide Teeth (C-3 grade) set at +22 degrees hook. What does this hook angle mean? It means the teeth on the blade are angled forward in the same direction as blade rotation. A high positive hook angle like +22 degrees (as manufactured on this blade) means the blade will cut very aggressively, and allow a fast feed rate; two properties generally desirable when rip cutting. You will find most rip blades will have a high positive tooth hook angle. In our testing, we did indeed find this to be true. The blade cuts very aggressively and the user can feed lumber through the blade quite quickly. But of course, always take precautions and allow the blade to do the work. Don't force a board through excessively fast! The teeth themselves feature a flat top grind, i.e. the top of the teeth and ground flat. Again, this is a feature of most ripping blades. Because rip cuts generally produce little or no chipping or splintering of the wood as it is cut, rip blades can afford a flat top grind on the teeth. The flat grind rakes cut debris away from the blade teeth more efficiently than beveled teeth can. This is important as rip cuts produce larger debris elements than crosscuts. There is also plenty of carbide material on each tooth, which means the blade should be able to be sharpened many times before it is no longer useable, adding to the value for money factor. Brazing of each tooth seemed to be quite consistent as far as I could tell, another sign of a quality manufactured blade. The rip blade features a 5/8 arbor, which must match the arbor on your table saw, and a .145 kerf, which is slightly wider than standard. Larger kerfs means more material is wasted during a cut, but wider kerf generally means a wide blade body, which can be essential to a good performing blade. Thin kerf blades with thin bodies can be prone to flex during heavy cutting which can affect cut accuracy. A good test of a blades balance (Pacific Saw Blades are all hand-balanced) is to measure the actual cut kerf against the listed kerf size. If they match, then the blade can be said to run true with no wobble that out-of-balance blades can exhibit. Blade wobble during a cut will naturally produce a wider kerf in the cut. On testing a kerf cut with my digital calipers, I found the kerf to be .147 (as close as I could measure with my tools).
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi Everyone GMC Website - http://www.gmcompany.com GMC MX355C Metal Cutting Saw Review Whether or not you dabble in metalwork, there are times when a metal cutting saw could come in handy. Whether it be building some storage out of steel tubing or building a jig to complement your woodworking tasks, a few basic skills in metalwork will go a long way. A recent project of mine was the construction of a chainsaw mill made out of RHS tubing. Naturally, this involved a lot of cutting tube to length, and while the handheld grinder would achieve the task, a dedicated metal cutting saw will make the job much easier, quicker, and more accurate. I recently acquired a GMC MX355C Metal Cutting saw, and this proved to be a great project to put the saw to the test. The GMC MX355C Platinum Metal Cutting Saw The MX355C is a dedicated metal cutting saw, designed specifically for, you guessed it, cutting metal, unlike other types of saws that can be readily adapted for different cutting tasks, or for cutting different materials. The MX355C model is part of GMC's platinum line of power tools. The platinum line offers more durable construction and an extended two year warranty that covers commercial and trade use, not just personal home use. Let's take a look at the features of the saw... Tech Specs and Discussion The saw features a 355mm cutting disc. One comes pre-fitted to the saw out of the box. In fact, most accessories are fitted and ready to go. The disc bore size is 25.4mm (1 inch). This is a common disc and bore size, so finding replacement discs should be no problem at all. Most good hardware stores or trade stores will stock them. Juts make sure the disc is rated to spin at 3900 RPM, which is the speed the disc spins on this saw. The high RPM allows a smoother finish on the cut piece. The disc is spun by a powerful 2400W universal motor, which is fixed in a direct-drive configuration. While most of the saw features all-metal construction, the motor housing is comprised on hardened plastic. This provides protection while not adding any unnecessary weight to the tool. There is plenty of power in the motor to tackle even the cutting of solid steel. As with any cutting task, let the blade do the work and the motor will generally have no problem keeping the blade/disc spinning. Even with a bit of excess pressure applied during a cut, the 2400W motor rarely missed a beat. In terms of motor sound output, I couldn't find any value printed either on the tool or in the product manual or product page on the GMC website. However, I'd have to guess it would be up around the 90-95 dB level, similar to my 2400W miter saw. At these levels, hearing protection is a must, so be sure to use a good set of earmuffs, or suitable ear plugs whenever using this machine. The main drop handle houses the power controls, and it too is of hardened plastic construction (like pretty much all drop-type saws these days), however, rubber overmolds on the handles add comfort and grip. The power controls are simple but safe. To start the saw, push the round lock-off button lateral to the trigger in, then pull the trigger and the saw starts up. To stop the saw, just release the trigger. Fairly basic stuff. Bear in mind that, for safety, you should wait until the cutting disc has come to a complete stop before placing your hands near the disc, or before removing the cut material from the saw. Also note that freshly cut material, particularly around the cut area is extremely hot. So use either proper metalworking gloves or wait until the metal has cooled before handling it. The drop action of the saw is quite smooth. Not the best I have ever felt on a drop saw, but given these saws are not really an ultra-precision machine, the drop action needs only really be smooth enough to make a fluent cut. Lateral movement of the saw head when dropped is minor. There is some movement, but again, any movement introduced by the user when lowering the saw head doesn't have much of an effect on the cut result. The actual cutting disc will flex much more during a cut, particularly when cutting through thicker or wider materials... it's simply the nature of the beast on these type of machines. The retracting disc guard and disc housing are all metal construction. Like on a miter saw, as the saw head is lowered, the disc guard retracts to expose the cutting disc to make the cut. After the cut is made, and the saw head is raised up, the guard again covers the exposed blade for added user protection. For transportation, the saw head can be locked in the down position. A locking knob at the rear of the saw holds the saw head down securely. The top handle above the motor housing offers a carry handle to allow you to pick up and carry the saw around when the head is locked in the lowered position. This certainly makes it easier and safer to move the saw from one point to another. In terms of actual cutting capacity on the MX355C, the following specs are listed:
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi All Kreg Website - http://www.kregtool.com Kreg R3 Pocket Hole Joinery Kit Review Regular visitors to the site will probably be familiar with the Kreg line of pocket hole joinery products, as we have reviewed both the K2000 and newer K3 models in the past, as well as some of the associated accessories that go with them. Now Kreg has manufactured and released another version of the pocket hole jig - the Kreg R3. The Kreg R3 is designed to offer pocket hole joinery to the regular DIY'er at an affordable price. There is no doubt that pocket hole joinery is a very fast and strong way of joining wood, in many forms and angles, so is this just the kit for the DIY user or should they head straight for the professional offerings of the K3 Master kit (as an example) and spend that little bit more? Or perhaps you are wondering what the differences are between the Kreg Rocket (R2) Kit and the R3 kit? Well, let's take a look at what the new Kreg R3 kit can do, and hopefully we can answer those questions... What's in the Box? As with most Kreg kit offerings, they supply pretty much everything you will need right in the box, however, the small sample of screws included will soon diminish, so a trip to your local Kreg supplier or pocket hole screw retailer will be in order to collect more. You will also need your own clamp if you do not already have a Kreg face clamp. In the kit itself you will find: * Kreg R3 Pocket Hole Jig * Clamp Pad Adaptor * Special Stepped Drill Bit * Depth Collar (with Allen Wrench) * 6 Square-Drive Driver Bit * Small assortment of sample screws and plugs This all comes in its own plastic molded carry case. And this is one case to keep, because on the inside of the case you have a reference guide outlining the depth collar setting and recommended screw length required for each material thickness option. This will speed up the joinery process and ensure the correct setup when working with varying width materials. Additionally, alongside the stepped drill holding area is a guide to help you position the depth collar correctly for the material thickness being used. So don't go throwing that case away! You will need it... or at least make a copy of the information so you can refer to it later if you plan to ditch it. The case itself is pretty small - I don't see any practical reason to get rid of it. It keeps everything handy and helps avoid loss of the included components. And speaking of components, let's go through them one by one in detail... 6 Square Driver Bit We will start here because it is the simplest! The 6 square driver bit (size #2) basically allows you to drive the square drive screws used in pocket hole joinery. Square drive screws are, I believe, the future of fasteners. It is very difficult to strip the head of a square drive screw, unlike regular Philips head and other older drive designs. Plus the square drive allows maximum torque with almost no bit slippage when driving the screw. If you have ever used a square drive screw before (in whatever application), chances are you haven't gone back to conventional screw tip drive designs. Square drive is far superior, not to mention much less frustrating to work with! The 6 length of the square drive bit is necessary to drive the screw deep into the created pocket without having the drill foul on the material edges (because of the angle the screw is driven). Stepped Drill Bit and Depth Collar This drill bit is what creates the pocket hole into which the screws are designed. It is a stepped drill because the stepped part of the drill actually creates a shoulder for which the pan-head pocket hole screws sit against to provide clamping force to the joint. There is a smaller diameter drill section just below the stepped section which drills a pilot hole close to the edge of the workpiece. When using pocket hole joinery, only one of the two pieces to be joined receives the drilled pocket holes, the other piece remains untouched. The special self-drilling pocket hole screws drill their own pilot hole (so to speak) in the second piece as you drive them, so pre-drilling both pieces is not necessary before joining them. Below is an example cutaway image to help show how the joint goes together and how the screws sit in the pocket hole: The depth collar is used to prevent the drill bit drilling further into the wood then it needs to. It is set at different distances from the drill bit tip depending on the thickness of the material you are using. The last thing you want is for the pocket hole to be over-drilled and blast out the end or edge of your workpiece, essentially ruining it. Setting depth adjustment is simple. Just use the reference guide in the storage case to set the correct depth stop for the material thickness being used. An allen wrench is provided to secure the depth collar to the bit. Kreg R3 Pocket Hole Jig This is the meat and potatoes of the system. Essentially, the R3 jig provides
RE: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi Try this Web Site Out for further information http://www.kregtool.com/ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of carl Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 7:44 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review how mutch is this produckt and whair is it avalable from and wil the cumpany deliver to the uk? - Original Message - From: Boyce, Ray To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 8:00 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Hi All Kreg Website - http://www.kregtool.com http://www.kregtool.com Kreg R3 Pocket Hole Joinery Kit Review Regular visitors to the site will probably be familiar with the Kreg line of pocket hole joinery products, as we have reviewed both the K2000 and newer K3 models in the past, as well as some of the associated accessories that go with them. Now Kreg has manufactured and released another version of the pocket hole jig - the Kreg R3. The Kreg R3 is designed to offer pocket hole joinery to the regular DIY'er at an affordable price. There is no doubt that pocket hole joinery is a very fast and strong way of joining wood, in many forms and angles, so is this just the kit for the DIY user or should they head straight for the professional offerings of the K3 Master kit (as an example) and spend that little bit more? Or perhaps you are wondering what the differences are between the Kreg Rocket (R2) Kit and the R3 kit? Well, let's take a look at what the new Kreg R3 kit can do, and hopefully we can answer those questions... What's in the Box? As with most Kreg kit offerings, they supply pretty much everything you will need right in the box, however, the small sample of screws included will soon diminish, so a trip to your local Kreg supplier or pocket hole screw retailer will be in order to collect more. You will also need your own clamp if you do not already have a Kreg face clamp. In the kit itself you will find: * Kreg R3 Pocket Hole Jig * Clamp Pad Adaptor * Special Stepped Drill Bit * Depth Collar (with Allen Wrench) * 6 Square-Drive Driver Bit * Small assortment of sample screws and plugs This all comes in its own plastic molded carry case. And this is one case to keep, because on the inside of the case you have a reference guide outlining the depth collar setting and recommended screw length required for each material thickness option. This will speed up the joinery process and ensure the correct setup when working with varying width materials. Additionally, alongside the stepped drill holding area is a guide to help you position the depth collar correctly for the material thickness being used. So don't go throwing that case away! You will need it... or at least make a copy of the information so you can refer to it later if you plan to ditch it. The case itself is pretty small - I don't see any practical reason to get rid of it. It keeps everything handy and helps avoid loss of the included components. And speaking of components, let's go through them one by one in detail... 6 Square Driver Bit We will start here because it is the simplest! The 6 square driver bit (size #2) basically allows you to drive the square drive screws used in pocket hole joinery. Square drive screws are, I believe, the future of fasteners. It is very difficult to strip the head of a square drive screw, unlike regular Philips head and other older drive designs. Plus the square drive allows maximum torque with almost no bit slippage when driving the screw. If you have ever used a square drive screw before (in whatever application), chances are you haven't gone back to conventional screw tip drive designs. Square drive is far superior, not to mention much less frustrating to work with! The 6 length of the square drive bit is necessary to drive the screw deep into the created pocket without having the drill foul on the material edges (because of the angle the screw is driven). Stepped Drill Bit and Depth Collar This drill bit is what creates the pocket hole into which the screws are designed. It is a stepped drill because the stepped part of the drill actually creates a shoulder for which the pan-head pocket hole screws sit against to provide clamping force to the joint. There is a smaller diameter drill section just below the stepped section which drills a pilot hole close to the edge of the workpiece. When using pocket hole joinery, only
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi Everyone Porter-Cable 893PK Fixed Base Plunge Base Router Kit The Bottom Line The Porter-Cable 893PK Fixed Base Plunge Base Router Kit is a very well-engineered woodworking tool. There are numerous touches that obviously were inspired by woodworkers, such as the dual-position switch, that allows the unit to be turned on and off near the handle and also at the top of the motor. I was also very impressed with the fine height adjustment on the fixed base, as it was quite accurate and very easy to use. The router is much quieter than most, starts smoothly, and bit changes are easy. This is a fantastic router, one that I would highly recommend adding to any woodworking shop. Pros . The motor is much quieter than most router motors . Spindle-lock allows for bit changes with only one wrench . Dual-position switch is very easy to operate when using router by hand or in a router table . Long power cord is a nice touch Cons . The map-style owner's manual can be frustrating to use Description . The fixed base height adjustment is quite accurate, the quick release makes removing the router a simple task. . The built-in dust collection in the plunge base is quite effective with small bits, but limited on large-diameter bits. . On some router tables, the collet can be extended high enough to allow above-the-table bit changes. . Ten-foot long power cord is a very nice touch. . Single-wrench bit changes made possible by a push-button spindle lock. This makes bit changes very easy. . The map-style owner's manual can be frustrating to use, as text isn't next to the pictures to which they refer. . The speed adjustment dial allows speed adjustments between 10,000-23,000 RPM. Guide Review - Porter-Cable 893PK Fixed Base Plunge Base Router Kit For years, Porter-Cable has enjoyed a reputation among professional contractors and woodworkers for quality, well-engineered tools. At the very least, the Porter-Cable 893PK Multi-Base Router Kit lives up to that reputation. In this case, I really think they've gone above and beyond. This is a top-notch router kit, one that other manufacturers should aspire to emulate. Holding the unit in my hands and starting the motor the first time was a bit of a surprise. While the soft-start motor takes more than a second to get up to full speed, it does it so smoothly and quietly that I wondered if the router was really functioning properly. (Note: Keep this soft start in mind when using this router, as you should not start cutting until the router is fully running at the chosen speed.) I used the router with a number of different sizes of bits, and the 2-1/4 HP motor handled the load with ease when using the appropriate speed for the bits. When plunging the router with the plunge base, the thumb lock mechanism was easy to reach and did not lose it's grip while routing. The six-position depth stop was smooth, yet has a solid feel, much more so than a lot of other routers in it's class. The height adjustment knob on the fixed base allows very accurate height adjustments as small as 1/128, yet the quick release lets the woodworker make major changes to the bit height quickly. There are a couple of minor tweaks that Porter-Cable could address. For instance, the screws on the fixed base are #10-24 with a Phillips head, while the screws on the plunge base are #8-32 using a Flathead/Torx head. This means you need two tools to change the base plates, and must keep track of two separate sets of screws. This is not a major problem, but a minor issue that I wonder if Porter-Cable engineers may have overlooked. Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ~-- Check out the new improvements in Yahoo! Groups email. http://us.click.yahoo.com/4It09A/fOaOAA/yQLSAA/86xolB/TM ~- To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is. http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the new archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi I would use a Ramset Powdered Activated Gun with the type of nail and charge into which you wanted to drive these special nails They can be driven into steel and concrete but special training is required so you can identify the charge required for over charging could lead to the nail passing through steel or concrete and killing some one near by. Out here you need a licence to operate a Ramset Gun. Ray . - Original Message - From: M.J. Terblanche [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 4:46 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Hi, Only wood is mentioned here, can it drive nails into brick / mortar walls? Thanks, Matthys - Original Message - From: Boyce, Ray To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 1:27 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Hi Everyone GMC Website - http://www.gmcompany.com GMC 18v Magnesium Strike Allnailer Review So you have a nail to drive... what are your options? Naturally, the first that probably comes to mind is the trusty old hammer (in its many variations). Next on the list is probably the pneumatic nail gun (and its many variations). But what comes after that? Suddenly the options become extremely limited. Well, Global Machinery Company (GMC) is attempting to add yet another nail driving tool variant to the list of possibilities with their new Magnesium Allnailer tool. It promises to offer all the ease of a power tool but without the restriction of expensive or hard to find nails for pneumatic tools. Plus, it's a world's first in terms of nailer design! Let's see how it works, and whether it does the job it is designed to do well. GMC Magnesium Allnailer When I first saw and heard about the Allnailer, I immediately thought... here we go, another cordless nail gun that is probably not powerful enough to drive anything more than brads into softwoods, like many other cordless nail guns and bradders flooding the market. When one purchases such a tool, they often end up having to buy a pneumatic nail gun and compressor because they discover the cordless nailers are just not up to scratch for most tasks. So what makes the Allnailer different to these other cordless nailers? Well, to begin with, the Allnailer functions a little differently to most nail guns. Instead of a single, rapid burst of air that is used to thrust a driver on conventional pneumatic nailers, the Allnailer uses somewhat of a continuous hammering action, much like you would experience with an air hammer chisel, or a jackhammer. So the nail is driven in with successive blows rather than one single burst of power. This alone offers benefits over other nail gun types which we will see later. But for now, lets take a look at the features of the Allnailer from the outside. Packaging and Contents The Allnailer ships in a plastic molded case. It offers great protection during shipping, and when transporting the tool around. As a result, the tool arrived free of dings, dents or other shipping damage. Inside the case you will find the Allnailer itself, two 18v batteries, and a user manual. Naturally, being a new tool in terms of design, every new owner should read the instruction guides. This nailer works differently to pneumatic nailers, and hence, requires different steps and technique to drive nails. The full color product manual will provide all the instruction you will need to operate the tool correctly and safely. The Power Packs + Charger The Allnailer ships with two 18v Nickel Cadmium (NiCad) cordless batteries. Each has a 1.5Ah capacity, which is probably average for a reasonably good quality power tool. The batteries connect to the bottom of the Allnailer handle via standard battery clips that are secure, but easy to remove when you need to switch a battery or charge one up. The batteries actually slide onto the bottom of the tool and then click in place to secure them. Naturally, a mains charger is included in the kit for restoring battery charge levels. In the marketing blurb it states the charger is a 1-hour rapid charger. I have been skeptical of these claims with other product reviews in the past because the batteries end up taking anywhere between 2 to 4 hours to charge. The 1 hour charger in this kit however does indeed seem to rate to the one hour mark. I timed the first charge cycle of the batteries and it came in at around 1 hour 15 minutes, but it could have actually finished charging 5 minutes prior to this as I was only really checking it every 5 minutes or so. Bear in mind that charge cycle time will likely decrease with future recharges, likely bringing charge time down to the one hour mark, and in some cases, even less. The charger itself features 2 LED lights to display charge status. The battery is fully charged when the green
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi Everyone GMC Website - http://www.gmcompany.com GMC 18v Magnesium Strike Allnailer Review So you have a nail to drive... what are your options? Naturally, the first that probably comes to mind is the trusty old hammer (in its many variations). Next on the list is probably the pneumatic nail gun (and its many variations). But what comes after that? Suddenly the options become extremely limited. Well, Global Machinery Company (GMC) is attempting to add yet another nail driving tool variant to the list of possibilities with their new Magnesium Allnailer tool. It promises to offer all the ease of a power tool but without the restriction of expensive or hard to find nails for pneumatic tools. Plus, it's a world's first in terms of nailer design! Let's see how it works, and whether it does the job it is designed to do well. GMC Magnesium Allnailer When I first saw and heard about the Allnailer, I immediately thought... here we go, another cordless nail gun that is probably not powerful enough to drive anything more than brads into softwoods, like many other cordless nail guns and bradders flooding the market. When one purchases such a tool, they often end up having to buy a pneumatic nail gun and compressor because they discover the cordless nailers are just not up to scratch for most tasks. So what makes the Allnailer different to these other cordless nailers? Well, to begin with, the Allnailer functions a little differently to most nail guns. Instead of a single, rapid burst of air that is used to thrust a driver on conventional pneumatic nailers, the Allnailer uses somewhat of a continuous hammering action, much like you would experience with an air hammer chisel, or a jackhammer. So the nail is driven in with successive blows rather than one single burst of power. This alone offers benefits over other nail gun types which we will see later. But for now, lets take a look at the features of the Allnailer from the outside. Packaging and Contents The Allnailer ships in a plastic molded case. It offers great protection during shipping, and when transporting the tool around. As a result, the tool arrived free of dings, dents or other shipping damage. Inside the case you will find the Allnailer itself, two 18v batteries, and a user manual. Naturally, being a new tool in terms of design, every new owner should read the instruction guides. This nailer works differently to pneumatic nailers, and hence, requires different steps and technique to drive nails. The full color product manual will provide all the instruction you will need to operate the tool correctly and safely. The Power Packs + Charger The Allnailer ships with two 18v Nickel Cadmium (NiCad) cordless batteries. Each has a 1.5Ah capacity, which is probably average for a reasonably good quality power tool. The batteries connect to the bottom of the Allnailer handle via standard battery clips that are secure, but easy to remove when you need to switch a battery or charge one up. The batteries actually slide onto the bottom of the tool and then click in place to secure them. Naturally, a mains charger is included in the kit for restoring battery charge levels. In the marketing blurb it states the charger is a 1-hour rapid charger. I have been skeptical of these claims with other product reviews in the past because the batteries end up taking anywhere between 2 to 4 hours to charge. The 1 hour charger in this kit however does indeed seem to rate to the one hour mark. I timed the first charge cycle of the batteries and it came in at around 1 hour 15 minutes, but it could have actually finished charging 5 minutes prior to this as I was only really checking it every 5 minutes or so. Bear in mind that charge cycle time will likely decrease with future recharges, likely bringing charge time down to the one hour mark, and in some cases, even less. The charger itself features 2 LED lights to display charge status. The battery is fully charged when the green (charge complete) light is illuminated. If the red light is on, the battery is still in the charging cycle. Nothing complicated here, but it works just fine. The battery mounts on the charger at an angle to one side. This is pretty insignificant however. Of course, with two batteries in the kit, you should always have one charged and ready to go. One can be in use while the second is charging. Each battery has a rubber protective coating around the base. I guess it helps protect the edges if you knock it around a bit, or at least protect your work surfaces or benches from casing scratches. Battery Life Battery life seems pretty good. While I haven't yet needed the tool for an all-day nailing task, I have managed to use the tool successfully for framing three interior walls from scratch and there was no sign the battery was slowing down. This was about 140 nails worth after I got through it all. It is claimed the Allnailer can drive up to 360 50mm nails into pine
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi All Leigh Website - http://www.leighjigs.com Leigh D1600 Dovetail Jig Review - Part 1 There is no denying that the most prominent name in dovetailing jigs is Leigh! Since the early '80s, Leigh have been manufacturing and retailing dovetailing jigs to woodworkers, with their now famous D4 model jig recognized as one of the best available for the woodworking hobbyist or professional. Since then, Leigh have also manufactured a mortise and tenon machining jig, and more recently, the little brother to the D4, the D1600 jig, which is the subject of this particular review. Out of the Box The D1600 comes supplied in a well packaged box with an assortment of bits and pieces, so separating and sorting everything out on a large enough surface is recommended to avoid confusion. The first item you will probably be keen to pick up is the DVD included in the kit. No doubt you will have this in the DVD player and running not long after opening the box. I love when manufacturers include DVDs. It's that little extra bonus you don't find in many product boxes. The DVD provides an excellent overview on setting up and using the D1600 jig, and it is well worth watching before you get stuck into using the jig. The most important item you will want to read through is, of course, the user manual. This ring-bound resource is full of step by step instructions for assembling and using the D1600 to construct all the types of joinery the jig is capable of producing. It is also a little more detailed than the information provided with the DVD, so don't just throw it back in the box. It's meant to be used in the workshop as you craft your fine woodworking item. Keep it close by and handy while you learn the ropes of your new D1600 jig. A bag of various knobs and fixings are included for initial assembly and setup of the D1600. One of the first steps outlined in the assembly process is to build a base for the D1600. This can be made out of any stable material, but plywood or MDF are probably best suited for the task. I used 3/4 chipboard as I had plenty available at the time and it has worked fine for me so far. The purpose of this base is to provide a wider footprint and to add a surface to which you can clamp the jig/base down more efficiently and safely to a workbench or work surface. Full instructions and a measured drawing for cutting and drilling the base is provided. There are only a couple of other basic assembly steps to complete and the D1600 is ready to use. It took about 30 minutes to construct the base and assemble the jig fully ready for use. Before you get started using the jig it is recommended to acquire several boards of cheaper softwood, usually pine or poplar, to use as sacrificial practice boards before getting your teeth into more expensive wood. I would also advise to go back to the DVD and look at the examples given, and also take note of special safety precautions mentioned. The last thing you wish to do is to destroy your new investment! Leigh D1600 Features So what makes the Leigh D1600 so special? I mean, you can buy cheap dovetail jigs from a number of other suppliers for basic dovetailing tasks... The keyword there is basic. The inexpensive dovetail jigs available are somewhat limited in the types of dovetail joints they can create. Many will only be able to make half-blind dovetails with pre-set pin spacing. What makes the Leigh dovetail jigs so popular is that they offer, among other features, fully variable dovetail joint spacing, i.e. you can position the pins and tails wherever you like across the width of the joint, as well as choose how many pin/tail joint combinations you desire as well. The cheaper jigs usually have pre-determined spacing that is not adjustable, which makes it hit and miss as to whether you can make a half pin on both edges of the joint, a trait which seems quite desirable in dovetail joinery. The Leigh D1600 can of course ensure you have half pins on each end of the joint, as well as variable spacing between these, and this is a great asset as it allows you to create joints that appear unique and different to the next. The D1600 can also be fitted with outer dovetail type template jigs to create more artistic-looking joints, but we will look at those in part 2 of this review later. The D1600 is indeed capable of producing a wide array of joint types. No longer are you restricted to just half blind dovetails with the cheaper jigs on the market. The D1600 is capable of producing half-blind dovetails, through dovetails, sliding and angled dovetails, as well as rabbetted and end on end joints too. And then there are angled and offset dovetails, to name just a few more. You can create joints up to 16 wide with the D1600. Build quality is also one of Leigh's best assets. All components are solid in construction and are precisely machined for accuracy. When you pull the D1600 out of the box, you can immediately see the level of quality it is
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi Everyone GMC 420W Magnesium Palm Planer Review If you are a power tool junkie, like me, it's always great to get your hands on a practical and useful power tool to make those common woodworking tasks a more simpler affair. This is not to say a good hand tool is worthless. In fact, hand planes are very handy to have around the shop and on construction sites for fine-tuning of lumber or joints, in their many forms. While the hand plane is often associated with fine woodworking, the hand power planer is more often found on construction or building sites, but it too can be used for fine woodworking tasks. Today we are looking at a power planer, but one with a little twist. The GMC Magnesium Palm Planer is smaller than your average power planer, fits in the palm of your hand allowing one handed operation and offers something unique in the world of power tools. The GMC Magnesium Palm Power Planer The Palm Planer ships in a small-sized black plastic molded case. Naturally, this affords it good protection during transit, and consequently, it arrived damage free and ready to go. This same case will offer good protection for the end user if they also transport it around from site to site, so it is well worth retaining and using it. Inside you will find the planer itself, a full-color product manual, plus several accessories including; * Blade spanner * Chip extraction tube * Spare drive belt * Spare set of blades This is a fairly stock-standard set of accessories for a power planer, except for the spare set of blades. This is the first planer I have acquired that offers a full set of spare blades in the case. A nice addition and a good little money saver as quality replacement blades can consume a bit of petty cash in the stores. Be aware however that these blades are not the standard 82mm size, only 60mm, so grab a set of spares with your purchase, or when you find them in your retail outlet. They may be hard to find in a few years time. The Palm Planer (Product Code: PPM) features a 420W motor. This is about half the power of a solid regular sized power planer, but given that this tool does not take as much material off in a pass, due to its smaller blade and max depth cutting capacity, a larger motor doesn't seem warranted. Plus, to have a small power tool such as this, you can't go too big in the power department, otherwise it is no longer a small tool. 420W of power proved to be more than ample for all cutting tasks I engaged the tool in. Even on full width planing passes at close to maximum depth in dense hardwoods, the PPM did the job with little trouble, although consideration to feed rate on harder woods needs to be taken into account. The PPM features a no-load speed of 14,000 RPM and combined with a two-blade cutterhead delivers smooth planing results with sharp cutters. The TCT cutting blades themselves are reversible so you get double the life out of them over a normal single-edged blade set. The power controls are located in easy reach of the thumb and forefinger. The switch lock release button is located up top (with the chevron markings). The power on/off button is located below and lateral to this. To power up the tool the top lock switch must be push down/forward and held there while the lateral on/off button is pressed to power up the tool. To turn off the tool you simply release the on/off button. The lock switch does not have to be held down/forward once the tool has been turned on. Both switches have a rubber mold grip for better grip/control. The PPM's body features a mix of light weight magnesium (belt drive cover, front control area) hardened plastic, and rubber overmolds for grip and comfort throughout. Despite the light magnesium and plastic casing, the tool doesn't feel like a toy. It still weighs in at 1.9kgs, which does seem to be a comfortable weight in the hand. Not too light to feel flimsy and vibrate excessively in use, and not too heavy as to make it unmanageable (and dangerous) with single hand control. The whole tool features a smooth, slimline design. The motor housing, which is also where you grip the tool in the palm has a rounded barrel shape that easily contours to the curve of your hand as you grasp the tool. In fact, the tool is very comfortable to hold and use. A fully cast metal base is machined flat and was verified to indeed be flat by my shop straight edge. The fixed rear base is solid and flat while the adjustable front base features numerous (3) V-grooves to allow edge chamfering to be achieved. Each V-groove is milled at a different depth too for versatility, to mill a specific depth chamfer, or to use a different groove each time to even out blade wear by not using the same part of the blade with each pass. In terms of depth capacity, the PPM can remove up to 1.5mm of material with each pass. The adjustable front base and depth control knob allows changes in 0.25mm increments with click stops for each 0.25mm setting.
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi All Triton (TBD1500) Belt and Disc Sander Review The Triton company has always been known as a company which produces quality and innovative tools. When the company came under the grasp of emerging tool giant, Global Machinery Company, many woodworkers wondered whether the Triton name and quality would live on. Thankfully, it seems this is indeed the case. A new line of tools have recently emerged with many new features and quality construction, and although most products in the new range have yet to be released (as at Dec 2006) some are now available, including the TBD1500 belt and disc sander, the subject of this review. The Triton TBD1500 Belt and Disc Sander Belt and Disc sanding combination machines are a common site in many woodworker's shops. They provide the convenience of both belt and disc sanding operations in one unit, and often with a small footprint to save space. They are a handy and very useful piece of machinery for many sanding tasks, and makes particular sanding tasks easy and quick to accomplish. The Triton Belt and Disc Sander (model TBD1500) ships in a nicely decorated, bright box (which is almost a shame to throw away), but once you get inside it, the box art will become an afterthought. The first thing you will notice with this tool when you try to take it out of the box is its weight. At 35kg (77lbs) you have to be careful not to go straining yourself getting it out! It's definitely a good two-person lift, unless you are a regular gym junkie with a good back and leg muscles... But the weight is not a bad thing, in fact, heavy bench and machine tools are often easier to use, built better and run with less vibration. The weight of the tool is due largely in part to the cast iron construction of many components (basically all the grey sections you see in the photos - including the feet!). The orange-colored parts are made from high-strength plastic, but it is good to see that all the important sections that affect accuracy and overall build quality are comprised of cast iron material. The plastic sections actually save the user from an even heavier lift. Under the hood is a 250W induction motor. Like all these styles of combination sanding machines, the belt and disc actually rotate together when powered up, i.e. you cannot stop one from rotating while the other is in use. This usually presents no problem, although you do need to be wary as to not go near the unused sanding area, and be sure not to wear loose fitting clothing that could catch in the machine or on the sanding surfaces. The motor itself is very quiet and no hearing protection will be necessary during use. At 250W the motor is powerful enough to handle all the tasks this type of machine will handle - face, edge and end grain sanding. It is possible to bog the motor down a little by excessive sanding pressure, but if you are indeed making the motor struggle, it is likely that you are applying too much pressure on the sanding surface to begin with. Use the motor sound to accurately gauge how much pressure should be applied in use. And of course, both the belt and disc sanding surfaces can be quite aggressive with removing material, so you will generally only want to use a light touch. Heavy handedness can result in removing more material than you wanted to, and as we know, it's much harder to replace wooden material than it is to remove it. The motor not only powers both the disc and belt sanding components, but it also supplies an air flow for the inbuilt dust collection. A bag attached to the rear of the machine inflates when power is applied to the tool. Inflation is caused by airflow being directed into the bag, and both the disc sander and belt sanding sections have dust collection hoods (of sorts) to try and capture as much of the sanding dust and debris as possible and direct it into the internal tool's airflow leading to the collection bag. The collection works quite well, but if you try to remove too much material at once, it sometimes does not have enough pull to handle larger volumes of dust. It could be a bit more powerful in regards to airflow volume, but with proper sanding technique and a light touch, it seems to handle dust collection reasonably well. It is handy not to have to hook up a dedicated extraction unit. However, if you have extraction permanently in place, you can also replace the bag with your own dust collection tube, and this will work better due to the higher airflow and volume a dedicated extraction system can provide. The dust port is 50mm (2) in size, so you will need a reducer attachment if you have a standard 4 (100mm) collection hose. Power is applied via the simple on/off red power switch located adjacent to the disc sander. Pull the switch upwards to apply power, push it down to stop the sander. A removable yellow switch safety key is attached. Once removed from the switch, power cannot be applied to the sander, even if the switch is pulled up into the ON position. The
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi Everyone GMC Hobby Tool Kit Review Whether you dabble in woodwork, electronics, home renovation, general craft, or any other hobby, GMC's Hobby Tool Kit has something you might need. Let's take a look at the package and discover what it contains and whether it offers value for money or suitability for your own around the shop/home tasks. The GMC Hobby Tool Kit The kit actually contains four individual tools, and these are a soldering iron, a small cordless screwdriver, an engraver and a rotary tool. I'll review each tool separately below. 3.6v Cordless Screwdriver The GMC 3.6v Cordless Screwdriver is a nifty little tool for a number of tasks. You can use it to drive in screws in woodwork, for general driving and screw removal tasks around the home, and in a number of varied hobby tasks where screws or very light drilling are involved (small model making for example). Because of its low rotational speed of only 200 RPM, it is not suitable for most drilling/boring tasks, but as mentioned, it can be used for light duty drilling with small drill bits, although you will require 1/4 hex shanked bits for them to fit the driver's chuck. The screwdriver features a 3.6v, 600mAh Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cad) internal, fixed rechargeable battery. A mains battery charger to suit is included in the pack, and recharge time for a fully depleted battery can be in the order of 5-7 hours, although the first few charge cycles will likely take considerably longer. The manual recommends 10-12 hours for the first charging cycle. Due to the fact that the battery pack and its capacity are quite small in comparison to a regular sized cordless drill, battery life is, as expected, also less. On a full charge however, you can go for an hour or two of fairly consistent use before the battery begins to struggle. One of the best features of this driver though is its size. It is a tiny tool and very light in weight. While the torque factor is low, the driver is easy to handle and you can get it into tight places with ease. The handle can also rotate to provide either a pistol-type orientation or a more elongated shape (like a crescent moon or a banana!) if you need a little more reach. A small yellow push switch is pressed to unlock the shaft and rotate the handle to either of the two set positions. Power is applied via a rocker switch on top of the driver. It has forward and reverse positions. The driver chuck rotates at a 200 RPM fixed speed, i.e. there is no variable speed trigger. Not much more to explain there. All fairly simple. The chuck itself will accept any 1/4 hex shank driver bit (and some small diameter 1/4 hex shank drill bits as mentioned above). A magnetic hex-shank extension bit is included in the kit to help hold driver bits in place and stop them falling out, handy when working in tight areas where a dropped driver bit could be difficult to re-acquire. A couple of double-ended driver bits (philips and slotted) are also supplied, although different types of compatible 1/4 shank bits can be purchased at virtually any hardware store to suit other screw head shapes (square drive, pozidriv etc). In use the tool works well for light duty driving tasks. It will have trouble driving larger screws into dense woods, but it is handy for removing hinges from doors, re-screwing joints after repair, and for general light duty hobby tasks. It's definitely not going to replace a good 9.6 or 12 volt cordless drill/driver, but it's not designed to do that. It has its limitations, but it is awfully handy in many situations as well. A nice addition to the hobby kit package. Rotary Tool The rotary tool is perhaps the most versatile tool in the kit, and to be honest, these things are very handy indeed. They can perform a huge range of tasks and are truly the swiss army knife of power tools for small-scale work. From cutting, to grinding, to shaping, to buffing, to sanding, the rotary tool can do it all, albeit, on a smaller scale. I have a larger rotary tool kit in the shop and it gets used quite often in both woodworking and general DIY and maintenance tasks. The rotary tool itself features a 135W brushed motor that is mains powered. Again, this is a hobby tool more than a serious demolition or dedicated power tool, but for small scale work, these tools are hard to beat! The rotational speed is variable from 15,000 up to 35,000 RPM. Two collet sizes are available - 3.2mm and 2.4mm, and this tool will accept most standard sized rotary tool (Dremel) type accessory bits in its collet(s). A collection of various accessories are included, like sanding drums/pads, various shaped grinding heads, a wire brush tool, buffing wheels, grinding discs and even a drill bit. Attaching the accessories is simple. Just lock the spindle using the spindle lock button and loosen/tighten the collet using the small collet wrench supplied. It works pretty much the same as a router collet. In effect, this is a router,
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi Wagner MMC220 Digital Moisture Meter Review Ever built a project out of wood and found out later that nothing really stayed square, you found cracks or checks in the timber used or something badly warped not long after you completed it? Perhaps you were using lumber that was too wet, i.e. it had too much moisture inside. I'm sure we have all come across the problem at some stage in our woodworking hobby or career. And when you go down the path of trying to use reclaimed or salvaged wood, or even some you have chopped from your own back yard, how will you know when it is ready to be safely used? To reduce the incidence of problems in selecting and using wet wood, you really do need a moisture meter. They range in price and features, some costing under $50, others up to a couple hundred of dollars. Today we are taking a look at the Wagner MMC220. I decided to grab one for a look after hearing several good comments on this unit from fellow woodworkers. The Wagner MMC220 Once you pull everything out of the box, the first thing you will notice, apart from the fact that it ships in a nice and handy protective carry case, is that this moisture meter lacks the metal pins found on many cheaper moisture meter units. This is certainly not a bad thing! On the cheaper units, you have to actually bury the small pins into a part of the lumber you wish to test. This has the unfortunate consequence of leaving marks in the wood you are testing. The MMC220 leaves no marks on your lumber involving clean up later. It's pin-less design also makes you more retailer-friendly when you can through the local lumber yard and scan wood for moisture content before purchase without leaving marks all over their stock! In terms of size, the MMC220 measures 4 9/16 long, 2 3/4 wide and 1 1/16 high/deep. It fits comfortably in your hand and is light enough (at just .37 pounds to keep in your pocket) and to avoid any type of user fatigue. It utilizes a standard 9v battery to power the unit. A low battery indicator will appear on the large LCD display in the form of LO BATT when battery levels drop low. To help conserve battery power, the unit will automatically switch itself off if there has not been a significant change in reading values in the last 60 seconds. The LCD screen is easy to read and the digits easy to decipher, even at more obscure viewing angles. On the rear of the unit you will notice the scanning area plate. The MMC220 has a scanning area of 1 1/2 x 2 1/2. It uses electro-magnetic wave sensing technology for more accurate readings, as opposed to resistance determination as used by pin meters, which is subject to conditions that cause diminished accuracy. A maximum measuring depth of 3/4 is listed in the manual. The MMC220 can supply accurate moisture readings between 5% and 30% moisture content. Ideally, you would be looking for a moisture content around 8% - 12% in wood before you would start building anything from it. This range is just the guide I personally go by. It may vary depending on who you talk to, or what you have read previously. I have had few problems using wood in this moisture range previously anyway. The unit is capable of measuring moisture content to a 0.1% accuracy. Naturally, accuracy depends mostly, among other things, upon the user selecting the correct specific gravity (SG) setting on the unit for the species of material they wish to measure. The MMC220 is adjustable from 0.20 to 1.0 SG. This pretty much covers virtually all wood species used by woodworkers. The higher specific gravity ranges (past 0.80) can be used for exotic wood species. If you are not sure what the specific gravity of a particular species is, the unit ships with a small booklet containing many of the more commonly used wood species and their specific gravity values, allowing you to readily set the correct SG to take accurate moisture readings. The wood species listed in the accompanying species printed guide are somewhat localized to the United States in terms of common woods, however, this unit can be used anywhere for any species as long as you know the SG of the wood you are testing. In terms of use, the unit is very simple to use. The On/Hold button will turn the unit on and off, by holding the button in for a few seconds. It also acts as a Hold button. This means you can freeze the current moisture reading on the screen. This is useful if you need to scan wood in a hard to reach place where you cannot see the reading. You simply lay the unit on top of the wood to test, allow it to gauge a reading and hit the Hold button once. This freezes the reading and you can then check the reading when you can again see the display. The Species button allows you to adjust the specific gravity (density) setting of the unit so accurate readings can be taken on different timbers. You can press it once to bring up the current SG setting. Subsequent presses will increase the SG setting by 1 point at a time. Pushing and holding
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review, Tile Cutting Saw
Ray, I agree with this article, A power tile cutter is worth its weight in gold. It not only save time, but also save tile breakage. 3 years ago my wife and I started out with a manual tile cutter, laying down more than 1100 square feet of the stuff. It didn't take me long to rent a tile table saw for $12.50 a day. What we did, was to lay all the full tile, rent the saw for a day and cut and filled in the needed areas. Which took us just a short time to finish that task and had the saw back at the rental place before 5 PM that day. RJ - Original Message - From: Boyce, Ray [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 11:20 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review, Tile Cutting Saw Hi GMC LSTSAW Laser Tile Cutting Saw Review So you've made more than a hundred woodworking projects, spent endless hours in the workshop, and now its time to renovate the bathroom, kitchen or laundry area and your significant other wants you to do it! Tiling may not be your specialty, but if you need to cut tiles to fit an edge or to work around an immovable object, a powered tile cutter will make life a little easier! Today we are taking a look at the GMC Tile Cutter, which is another tool from the GMC range fitted out with their Redeye laser feature. Let's take a closer look... Out of the Box The GMC LSTSAW Laser Tile Cutting saw ships mostly assembled. All you really need to do is attach the laser mount arm to the saw, add the fence, and install the supplied batteries into the laser's battery compartment. Certainly one of the more simpler and quicker out-of-the-box setups we have encountered lately I must say! There is the normal high-quality, color-printed manual supplied with the tile saw, as with most GMC products now, as well as standard warranty card and registration information. Everything was in tip-top condition once assembled - no dints or dings to be seen. Specifications Below are the listed specifications as per the manual for this tool: Power: 650W Speed: 2950 RPM Blade Size: 180mm Diamond Blade Bore Size: 15.88mm (5/8) Bevel Capacity: 0 to 45 degrees Maximum Cutting Depth at 90 deg: 35mm Maximum Cutting Depth at 45 deg: 21mm Table Size: 420mm x 360mm Laser Class: 2 Laser Output: 1mW Batteries: 2 x AAA Features Function The first feature you may notice once you have this tool out of the box and are ready to move it to its place of use is the integrated tool handle. Located on the left side of the tool (when standing in front of it) the flip up handle allows you to carry the tool around very easily and conveniently. The weight of the tool seems pretty well centered under the handle, so there is little strain when lugging the tool around. The motor offers 650W output. For tile cutting this is plenty. Most tiles have a similar thickness and few ceramic tiles measure more than a quarter or third of an inch thick (except from some specialty tiles) so 650W of power is more than enough to complete regular tile cutting tasks with ease. I haven't been able to bog the saw down yet during a regular tile cut. The motor is also of the induction type. It is very quiet when switched on and no ear protection will be needed. Once you start cutting a tile however, the noise level jumps up a little. This is not the saw itself becoming noisier, but simply the noise the tile makes as it is being sliced by the diamond blade. The saw uses a standard, non-segmented 180mm diamond edged cutting blade. The bore size is listed at 15.88mm, which is 5/8. Finding replacement blades shouldn't be terribly difficult if you search a big box hardware store, or from tile retailers that also sell cutting gear (many do). A quality tile cutting blade will last for quite a long time if used only to cut common tile materials. A plastic blade guard protects the user from accidentally striking a spinning blade causing injury. Personally, I found the blade guard was a little flimsy, but when set properly, it performs the task it is designed to do and doesn't really move when the saw is turned on and cutting is in progress, so who I am to criticize! Its light weight probably contributes to the saw's easy portability, so my back certainly is thankful for that. The next main feature is the table itself. It can tilt to the right to 45 degrees if you have a need to make a beveled tile cut. As most tile cuts will likely be made at the square 90 degree setting, I didn't really find much use for the tilting table function but at least the function is there if and when you do need it. A small knob on the front of the unit releases the table allowing you to tilt it to 45 degrees. The small etched scale and arrow marking system approximates the bevel angle. It's crude but more than sufficient for tiling cuts, where accuracy to less than a single degree is rarely required, if at all. The scale on the table itself
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review, Tile Cutting Saw
Hi GMC LSTSAW Laser Tile Cutting Saw Review So you've made more than a hundred woodworking projects, spent endless hours in the workshop, and now its time to renovate the bathroom, kitchen or laundry area and your significant other wants you to do it! Tiling may not be your specialty, but if you need to cut tiles to fit an edge or to work around an immovable object, a powered tile cutter will make life a little easier! Today we are taking a look at the GMC Tile Cutter, which is another tool from the GMC range fitted out with their Redeye laser feature. Let's take a closer look... Out of the Box The GMC LSTSAW Laser Tile Cutting saw ships mostly assembled. All you really need to do is attach the laser mount arm to the saw, add the fence, and install the supplied batteries into the laser's battery compartment. Certainly one of the more simpler and quicker out-of-the-box setups we have encountered lately I must say! There is the normal high-quality, color-printed manual supplied with the tile saw, as with most GMC products now, as well as standard warranty card and registration information. Everything was in tip-top condition once assembled - no dints or dings to be seen. Specifications Below are the listed specifications as per the manual for this tool: Power: 650W Speed: 2950 RPM Blade Size: 180mm Diamond Blade Bore Size: 15.88mm (5/8) Bevel Capacity: 0 to 45 degrees Maximum Cutting Depth at 90 deg: 35mm Maximum Cutting Depth at 45 deg: 21mm Table Size: 420mm x 360mm Laser Class: 2 Laser Output: 1mW Batteries: 2 x AAA Features Function The first feature you may notice once you have this tool out of the box and are ready to move it to its place of use is the integrated tool handle. Located on the left side of the tool (when standing in front of it) the flip up handle allows you to carry the tool around very easily and conveniently. The weight of the tool seems pretty well centered under the handle, so there is little strain when lugging the tool around. The motor offers 650W output. For tile cutting this is plenty. Most tiles have a similar thickness and few ceramic tiles measure more than a quarter or third of an inch thick (except from some specialty tiles) so 650W of power is more than enough to complete regular tile cutting tasks with ease. I haven't been able to bog the saw down yet during a regular tile cut. The motor is also of the induction type. It is very quiet when switched on and no ear protection will be needed. Once you start cutting a tile however, the noise level jumps up a little. This is not the saw itself becoming noisier, but simply the noise the tile makes as it is being sliced by the diamond blade. The saw uses a standard, non-segmented 180mm diamond edged cutting blade. The bore size is listed at 15.88mm, which is 5/8. Finding replacement blades shouldn't be terribly difficult if you search a big box hardware store, or from tile retailers that also sell cutting gear (many do). A quality tile cutting blade will last for quite a long time if used only to cut common tile materials. A plastic blade guard protects the user from accidentally striking a spinning blade causing injury. Personally, I found the blade guard was a little flimsy, but when set properly, it performs the task it is designed to do and doesn't really move when the saw is turned on and cutting is in progress, so who I am to criticize! Its light weight probably contributes to the saw's easy portability, so my back certainly is thankful for that. The next main feature is the table itself. It can tilt to the right to 45 degrees if you have a need to make a beveled tile cut. As most tile cuts will likely be made at the square 90 degree setting, I didn't really find much use for the tilting table function but at least the function is there if and when you do need it. A small knob on the front of the unit releases the table allowing you to tilt it to 45 degrees. The small etched scale and arrow marking system approximates the bevel angle. It's crude but more than sufficient for tiling cuts, where accuracy to less than a single degree is rarely required, if at all. The scale on the table itself provides a method by which a distance from the blade can be calculated to set the fence. It measures a little over 8 inches left of the blade, and 4 inches right of the blade, with a central 0 setting in line with the blade's projected kerf cut line. The scale is found front and back on the table as the fence is a dual clamp system and not self aligning, so to get a square cut, you need to set the fence at the same measurement front and back. The fence itself is of aluminum box construction. It is fairly rigid when locked down. You can flex it a little, but only with excessive pressure you wouldn't normally be applying pushing a tile against it, so it is really a moot point. Under normal use, there is no visible flex and tile cuts remain parallel front to back. As mentioned above, the fence uses a basic front/back clamping
