Linear Power Supply (Conversion Equipment Corp) from a basic four 510
The one from my 510 does not supply the main +5V, all the other voltages are present. Does someone have a schematic for that one, would me more easy. I have uploaded pictures here: http://basicfour.de/mai510-PSU/small/ Thanks a lot Armin
Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica
ste...@malikoff.com writes: One thing that intrigues me is the end-on photo IMG_3161. It appears the top edge projects further than the bottom by a tiny bit leading to a tapered appearance, It's not tapered; it just looks that way because I'm not holding it very straight in the photo. I've added a couple more end-on pictures that should show this more clearly: http://photos.offog.org/pdp11-panel/g/ BTW the first image won't load for me: '... cannot be displayed, because it contains errors'. It's a pretty big image. If your browser doesn't like it, try saving it and loading it in something else? I've added a lower-res version as well. Thanks, -- Adam Sampson a...@offog.org http://offog.org/
Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica
On 10/07/2015 02:21, ste...@malikoff.com wrote: Pete: also teriffic photos, thanks as well! Nice measurements especially the letter heights. Thanks, you're welcome. A common method of determining radii is to use an engineers radius guage. Which is what I did :-) -- Pete Pete Turnbull
Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica
PS: To clarify (if needed) what I mean by 'the flange': orient the piece as it would be if it were on the H960 (i.e. with the little interior tabs at the top, and the coloured panel on the front); the 'flange' runs down one side, along the bottom, and up the other side: it's a continuous piece, towards the back of the unit, in a plane parallel to the plane of the coloured front panel. HTH. Noel
Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica
On 11/07/2015 01:21, ste...@malikoff.com wrote: I've adjusted the drawing based upon some of the measurements provided, so far. I'd like to get it as accurate as possible. So, I've taken some of Adam's photos and annotated them with labelled arrows (hope that's ok Adam). Would it be possible to get these? Hopefully this will clarify things. One or two labels are repeated, I know: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/dimension_check-IMG_3161.jpg flush with bottom edge?: yes, it is. b = 93.5mm at the position shown, but it's slightly tapered, presumably for purposes of injection moulding. If you measure it just above the flange (the part with thickness i in that photo) it's 94.5mm. I'd not noticed that before. d = 56.95mm g = 4.93mm - 4.98mm depending on exactly where/how I measure it h = 106mm i = 2.46mm j = 33.18mm k = 11.67mm L = 2.7mm where you drew the line, tapering to 2.3mm at the rear edge (for injection moulding again) m = 14.25mm http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/dimension_check-IMG_3162.jpg q = 15.5mm r = 6.35mm (it's a 1/4 hole to clear a 10-32UNF machine screw, which screws into a Tinnerman nut on the top crossmember of the rack) s = 11.1mm (hard to be absolutely accurate with the tools I have, but that is suspiciously close to 7/16) t = 27.9mm where you've drawn it. You obviously realise it goes in further under the flange, radiused as shown in IMG_3144. u = 11.27mm http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/dimension_check-IMG_3144.jpg a = 91.05mm (that's from upper surface to upper surface) v = 9.21mm (average of two corners) w = 2.53mm (this tapers as well, to 3.1mm at the base) x = 12.25mm y = 15.5mm (but on mine, the piece of the flange that y is the width of, is almost 1mm wider on one side, but only in the part hidden by the flange that Z points to) z = about 0.5mm - you're trying to measure the taper on the edge of the flange? Not easy to be accurate. That flat part, across which you're measuring x and y, looks as if it goes all the way across the bottom in IMG_3161 (where you've measured k) but it doesn't on mine. It only goes as far as you can see in IMG_3144, and there are machining marks in the plastic where the rest has been cut away - and from the look of the marks, they're in the mould. Noel: thanks for trying the drill bits on the radius. From the original TU10 photo I determined 9.6mm, Pete says 9.5mm so I'm not too far out. I have adjusted it to 9.5mm anyway, along with most of the other measurements provided. Bear in mind that as this was designed in the US, the design measurements and tools were almost certainly imperial rather than metric. So that radius was probably cut on the master with a 3/4 cutter, rather than 19mm. That makes the radius 3/8, which is 9.525mm: slightly larger than 9.50mm but closer to 9.5 than to 9.6. Though I doubt anyone cares much about 0.1mm here, let alone 0.025mm :-) -- Pete Pete Turnbull
Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale
On 2015-Jul-10, at 5:39 PM, jwsmobile wrote: On 7/10/2015 5:05 PM, Brendan Shanks wrote: Also there's a Toshiba T1000 and Apple II+ probably still there. http://www.estatesales.net/CA/Huntington-Beach/92646/931308 Brendan What did you make of the thing on the hand truck? Gizmo http://pictures.estatesales.net/931308/21760158/1.jpg That's the rear of a 70s colour TV, the stuff on the side looks like either/both convergence control or an early electronic tuning system with individual channel tuning. Actually, it looks like a Heathkit with the plug-in modules along the rear chassis, the manuals on top look like the right colour with the little title window cut in the cover of Heathkit manuals. Here we go, compare: https://www.flickr.com/photos/34737609@N07/sets/72157613423708701 I think the estate one is an earlier model, probably early 70s, with the flickr-pics one probably a couple years later.
Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale
On 7/10/2015 5:05 PM, Brendan Shanks wrote: snip Also there's a Toshiba T1000 and Apple II+ probably still there. http://www.estatesales.net/CA/Huntington-Beach/92646/931308 Brendan What did you make of the thing on the hand truck? Gizmo http://pictures.estatesales.net/931308/21760158/1.jpg Apple 2 http://pictures.estatesales.net/931308/21760229/1.jpg BTW, this looks like the same operation that had the lead that got Bob Rosenbloom his IBM typewriter. I know they bring in pickers and others to cherry pick the good stuff ahead of these sales from the sale that Bob's typewrite came from. I picked up some books at the sale for my collection, and in researching the person who originally owned the book turned up fresh meat on a book scout's ABE books site. However I got the good stuff, he got the crap. I would have liked to have snagged the guy's PhD bound thesis, as it was related to engineering mathematics, and is cited widely in other literature. However I got his copies from project Ranger, of which he was a leading engineer. BTW, Brendan, I'm in Orange if you are in the area. thanks Jim
Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica
From: Pete Turnbull
z = about 0.5mm - you're trying to measure the taper on the edge of
the flange? Not easy to be accurate.
Ah, I've just realized I made a mistake in a previous message.
I thought 'z' was calling for the distance between the inner edge of what I'm
calling 'the flange' (i.e. the edge the left-hand arrow of 'x' is pointing
to), and the upright at the right end of what I'll call the 'bottom plate'
(when the piece is mounted on the H960, the bottom plate is in a plane
parallel to the ground - i.e. it's in a plane perpendicular to what I'm
calling 'the flange'). That upright is the vertical (in this picture) axis at
one end of 'z'.
Having called up a flat plate, and a square, to help measure accurately, the
width of the flange ('x') is 1.26 cm, and the distance from the outer edge of
the flange to the vertical at one end of 'z' (i.e. the end of the 'bottom
plate') is 1.57 cm at the 'bottom' of the plate (i.e. in this image), making
the distance from the inner edge of the flange to the vertical edge of the
bottom plate 3.1 mm - at the 'bottom' of the bottom plate.
At the _top_ of the bottom plate (i.e. the inner edge, when the unit is
mounted on an H960), the distance to the outer edge of the flange is 1.62cm,
making the 'flange inner edge' to 'bottom plate side' distance 3.6 mm, at the
'top' of the bottom plate.
So 'z', the variance between the two, is indeed 0.5 mm. Pete's spot on!
Noel
Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica
I've adjusted the drawing based upon some of the measurements provided, so far. However I'm not sure I interpret Pete's measurement of 33.1mm from the back of the flange to the front of the box, correctly. Noel also says the same 'from the back of the flange' so I must be missing something here. I'd like to get it as accurate as possible. So, I've taken some of Adam's photos and annotated them with labelled arrows (hope that's ok Adam). Would it be possible to get these? Hopefully this will clarify things. One or two labels are repeated, I know: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/dimension_check-IMG_3161.jpg http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/dimension_check-IMG_3162.jpg http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/dimension_check-IMG_3144.jpg Noel: thanks for trying the drill bits on the radius. From the original TU10 photo I determined 9.6mm, Pete says 9.5mm so I'm not too far out. I have adjusted it to 9.5mm anyway, along with most of the other measurements provided. Paul: thanks for John's Handbook Truetype font. I've looked at it and (for me) the kerning is not quite right even when using the narrow 't' (0054, or ALT + keypad 83) also on other characters. To get the proper representation for the panel I would need to convert the TTF word string to an image or SVG path, shuffle the characters to the correct spacing and then reimport it. So I'll stick with what I have for this. His 's' is far better than mine though - I'll work on that. Thinking about Chris' mention of vinyl cutting, the long horizontal line could be dropped from the cutting image which would bring the length down from the start of the |d| box to the end of the '11' ie. about 245mm which would should(?) fit an A4 cutting space. The line could be applied seperately with automotive or scrapbooking lining tape. Thanks again Steve.
Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica
From: Steven Malikoff I'm not sure I interpret Pete's measurement of 33.1mm from the back of the flange to the front of the box, correctly. Noel also says the same 'from the back of the flange' so I must be missing something here. Hmm. I thought for a moment I'd misread my calipers, but I checked again, and 3.80 is correct for the thing I measured, which is (on your IMG_3161) from the lower end of i/j to the upper edge of d/g. So clearly we must be using different definitions of 'flange', or something - or maybe his unit is somewhat different from mine? Here are the rest of the measurements from that image: 'k' = 'm' on mine, at 1.15 cm. That downward projecting flat (at one end of 'l' and 'm', which is at 90 degrees to the thing I'm calling the 'flange', the thing with thickness 'i', which is completely horizontal - along two axes - in that image) is cut back a bit, in the direction normal to the screen, from the end of the upper part (at the left edge of 'k'), which is why they look, from the slight angle in that image, like they aren't in a common vertical plane (normal to the screen) - but they are. 'l' = 2.6mm; 'h' is 10.64 cm; 'd' is 5.73 cm; 'i' is 2.70 mm. 'g' looks to be about 4.6 mm; I should mention that the corner below it (at the upper end of 'i') is not a right-angle, but a rounded thing with a fairly considerable radius - something on the order of 3.5 mm. 'j' is 3.35 cm. The edge labelled 'flush with bottom edge' is indeed flush with the left-hand end of the horizontal flange. On IMG_3162, 'q' is 1.16 cm; note that the left edge of 'q' is almost, but not quite, in a plane with the right hand edge of 's'. The left edge of 'q' is about 3.4 mm to the left of the right edge of 's'. 'u' is 1.13 cm. (This turns out to be 'z' in the third image.) Note that the little tab (the thing you're measuring 's' on) projects up under the 'plate' which you're measuring 'u' on; i.e. the maximum width of that tab, 't', is up underneath that plate. I can't measure it because it's not a sharp angle where it meets the vertical surface (i.e. in the plane normal to the screen) up under there; rather, it's a radiused corner (which you can see in the next picture). On IMG_3144, 'y' is about 1.56 cm (bit hard to measure that one; I should have used a flat to give me good end point at the RHS to measure to); 'x' is 1.25 cm; 'v' is 9.1 mm (ditto); 'w' is 2.85 mm. 'a' I can't really give you directly, but I can give you the distance from the upper end of a, to the upper end of 'w', which is 7.96 cm; add that to 'w' and 'v' and that will give you 'a'. Noel
Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale
On Jul 10, 2015, at 5:39 PM, jwsmobile j...@jwsss.com wrote: On 7/10/2015 5:05 PM, Brendan Shanks wrote: snip Also there's a Toshiba T1000 and Apple II+ probably still there. http://www.estatesales.net/CA/Huntington-Beach/92646/931308 Brendan What did you make of the thing on the hand truck? Gizmo http://pictures.estatesales.net/931308/21760158/1.jpg Apple 2 http://pictures.estatesales.net/931308/21760229/1.jpg Haha I didn't look at that closely but it looked like an old TV in pieces. BTW, Brendan, I'm in Orange if you are in the area. Cool I live in Huntington Beach, always keeping an eye out on Craigslist and estate sales for vintage stuff. I wish I could save more of the magazines, there's a few full years of BYTE which are worth $$ on eBay, and I'd love to send the MacUser's to someone who could scan them. Unfortunately I won't be around tomorrow to grab them. Brendan
Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale
On 7/10/2015 7:45 PM, Brent Hilpert wrote: On 2015-Jul-10, at 5:39 PM, jwsmobile wrote: snip Gizmo http://pictures.estatesales.net/931308/21760158/1.jpg That's the rear of a 70s colour TV, the stuff on the side looks like either/both convergence control or an early electronic tuning system with individual channel tuning. Actually, it looks like a Heathkit with the plug-in modules along the rear chassis, the manuals on top look like the right colour with the little title window cut in the cover of Heathkit manuals. Here we go, compare: https://www.flickr.com/photos/34737609@N07/sets/72157613423708701 I think the estate one is an earlier model, probably early 70s, with the flickr-pics one probably a couple years later. The thing that made me ask was that the grey thing was possibly a 1/4 or larger motor, and maybe it was some oddly skinned disk drive. Now I see it. My cousin built one of those and had the best workshop TV in full color till his wife made him put it in a box in the living room. Great fun with the controls that pulled out after that, but not near as fun as a 25 or so color tv on your bench. thanks for the info. I will try to get there tomorrow, may call you, Brendan and let you distribute the Bytes. I'm looking for a particular ad in the 70s thru 80's magazines and if I find it that would be all I want to keep. thanks Jim
Schematics/Service Manual for Yamaha C1
I'm just going to toss a feeler out there. One of my more recent most sought after machines was the Yamaha C1, a 286-12mhz MS-DOS laptop with 11 midi ports. I picked one up off of ebay, not cheap in it's non-working condition. I'm now working on getting it running. I'm looking for schematics or service manual. It's a long shot :-) I contacted Yamaha of USA already and they said they don't have documentation going back that far. Both paper or digital. My unit when powered on never seems to do a floppy seek, or boot. Caps lock and num lock don't trigger the LEDs. And it has an internal or external display dip switch. The unit always comes up set for external display, even though dip switch is set internal. I hunted inside and found 9 electrolytic caps were leaking. I cleaned up the mess and replaced them, but still no go. The traces I can see that look on the fence all continuity test okay. I have more caps on the way to replace all of the capacitors, and next step will be to look at the power supply output on an oscope to see how good or bad it looks. I have already archived the eprom data, and will be scanning all the documentation and archiving the floppies. I will make it all available online. I have some of the programming docs, some dip switch info, pinouts for the expansion connector (but unfortunatly no hard drive controller connector afaik) and more. Schematics would be good to go with that, as the mainboard has more than 2 layers. -- Ethan O'Toole
80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale
I bought the two old Macs there this morning, but there's *years* of 80s magazines still there: BYTE, nibbles, MacUser, Softalk, Creative Computing, Personal Computing, Call-A.P.P.L.E, a few Macworld and PC Magazine issues, probably some others I'm forgetting. Only one more day for the sale, they'll probably let you haul them away for (close to) nothing on Saturday. Also there's a Toshiba T1000 and Apple II+ probably still there. http://www.estatesales.net/CA/Huntington-Beach/92646/931308 Brendan
RE: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale
Most of the Byte magazines are here: http://www.americanradiohistory.com/Byte_Magazine.htm Subject: Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale To: cctalk@classiccmp.org From: j...@jwsss.com Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2015 21:33:39 -0700 On 7/10/2015 7:45 PM, Brent Hilpert wrote: On 2015-Jul-10, at 5:39 PM, jwsmobile wrote: snip Gizmo http://pictures.estatesales.net/931308/21760158/1.jpg That's the rear of a 70s colour TV, the stuff on the side looks like either/both convergence control or an early electronic tuning system with individual channel tuning. Actually, it looks like a Heathkit with the plug-in modules along the rear chassis, the manuals on top look like the right colour with the little title window cut in the cover of Heathkit manuals. Here we go, compare: https://www.flickr.com/photos/34737609@N07/sets/72157613423708701 I think the estate one is an earlier model, probably early 70s, with the flickr-pics one probably a couple years later. The thing that made me ask was that the grey thing was possibly a 1/4 or larger motor, and maybe it was some oddly skinned disk drive. Now I see it. My cousin built one of those and had the best workshop TV in full color till his wife made him put it in a box in the living room. Great fun with the controls that pulled out after that, but not near as fun as a 25 or so color tv on your bench. thanks for the info. I will try to get there tomorrow, may call you, Brendan and let you distribute the Bytes. I'm looking for a particular ad in the 70s thru 80's magazines and if I find it that would be all I want to keep. thanks Jim
Re: OT: Pentium processor sizes
There absolutely was a P5 Overdrive from Intel for 486 motherboards ... I saw a few of them in the wild back in the day... On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 5:51 PM, jwsmobile j...@jwsss.com wrote: On 7/10/2015 1:21 PM, Joe Giliberti wrote: Hey. I'm sorry for the off topic post, but I couldn't think of another forum to ask my question. I'm just looking for information as to whether there are different sizes Pentium processor dependent upon whether the processor is for a desktop or laptop. I want to see if I can give my old Hewlett Packard OmniBook a little more juice. I don't recall there being any different processors in the first Pentium. The big effort in power reduction was by a group who did a power reduction project with the Pentium 3. Many of the laptops had full sized Pentiums with novel cooling to make them work in a portable laptop form factor. There were a series of projects where Intel did processors to upgrade previous families of chips with the newer technology. For example a 486 chip engineered to be happy with a 386 pin bus, but running at a higher clock, and similar upgrades for 486 systems. These were called Overdrive and were not power reduced as a goal of the product. The Pentium was a big enough step that I don't know of any such for the 486, where a Pentium could be stuffed in. The BIOS became enough of a factor in making the Pentium go that it was necessary. Such dropins they had were all self contained that I mention in the previous paragraph. The next act for Pentium (and quoting from this article) was MMX added in. Pentium II of course went to the infamous Slot 1 / 2 form factor. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_microprocessors#32-bit_processors:_P5_microarchitecture If you look up the processor you have in your Omnibook, some of the Pentium P5's could be upgraded, but you had to be careful as some had issues of being interchanged. Thanks Jim
Altos ACS 8000-7 (8200) mainboard wanted / Shugart 4008 motor pulley
Long story, but I recently acquired an Altos ACS 8000-2 with an 8100-01 mainboard (which currently is not functioning). Acquired it on eBay where it was represented as an ACS-8000-7, along with an Altos 8000-7A 29MB hard disk (a Shugart 4008). The hard disk was fine, but the computer wasn't the one shown in the photo. (I arranged for a partial refund. At least the disk was the one in the photo. ;) ). I was wondering if anyone had an 8200 mainboard (the one with the logic for the hard disk on it) that they would be willing to sell at an affordable price? Also, I have a second Shugart 4008 hard disk, but it was configured for 50Hz - so the motor pulley is the wrong size. Anyone out there have a dead 4008 that they would be willing to have part with its motor pulley and belt (and get the 50Hz set in return)? (For example, I saw a posting on youtube with a wobbly platter set that probably is a good candidate... ;) ). Any tips on troubleshooting the mainboard on a double density Altos 8000 computer (mainboard 8100) would also be appreciated. I have already reseated the chips, polished the tarnish off some chips the apparently had silver-plated pins, etc., to no avail. Have dumped the ROM (2708). Next plan is to disassemble that, and slap a logic analyzer on J2 which has all of the bus signals on it. Thanks in advance... JRJ
Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale
On 2015-Jul-10, at 9:33 PM, jwsmobile wrote: On 7/10/2015 7:45 PM, Brent Hilpert wrote: On 2015-Jul-10, at 5:39 PM, jwsmobile wrote: snip Gizmo http://pictures.estatesales.net/931308/21760158/1.jpg That's the rear of a 70s colour TV, the stuff on the side looks like either/both convergence control or an early electronic tuning system with individual channel tuning. Actually, it looks like a Heathkit with the plug-in modules along the rear chassis, the manuals on top look like the right colour with the little title window cut in the cover of Heathkit manuals. Here we go, compare: https://www.flickr.com/photos/34737609@N07/sets/72157613423708701 I think the estate one is an earlier model, probably early 70s, with the flickr-pics one probably a couple years later. The thing that made me ask was that the grey thing was possibly a 1/4 or larger motor, and maybe it was some oddly skinned disk drive. Now I see it. I had a similar thought at first glance - thought it might be a drum housing - till I noticed the IF coil cans and such and had to back off to something less exotic. Then started to recognise it from looking at too many Heath catalogs as a kid. My cousin built one of those and had the best workshop TV in full color till his wife made him put it in a box in the living room. Great fun with the controls that pulled out after that, but not near as fun as a 25 or so color tv on your bench. thanks for the info. I will try to get there tomorrow, may call you, Brendan and let you distribute the Bytes. I'm looking for a particular ad in the 70s thru 80's magazines and if I find it that would be all I want to keep. thanks Jim
Re: Altos ACS 8000-7 (8200) mainboard wanted / Shugart 4008 motor pulley
On 7/10/2015 7:50 PM, Jay Jaeger wrote: Long story, but I recently acquired an Altos ACS 8000-2 with an 8100-01 mainboard (which currently is not functioning). Acquired it on eBay where it was represented as an ACS-8000-7, along with an Altos 8000-7A 29MB hard disk (a Shugart 4008). The hard disk was fine, but the computer wasn't the one shown in the photo. (I arranged for a partial refund. At least the disk was the one in the photo. ;) ). I was wondering if anyone had an 8200 mainboard (the one with the logic for the hard disk on it) that they would be willing to sell at an affordable price? Also, I have a second Shugart 4008 hard disk, but it was configured for 50Hz - so the motor pulley is the wrong size. Anyone out there have a dead 4008 that they would be willing to have part with its motor pulley and belt (and get the 50Hz set in return)? (For example, I saw a posting on youtube with a wobbly platter set that probably is a good candidate... ;) ). Any tips on troubleshooting the mainboard on a double density Altos 8000 computer (mainboard 8100) would also be appreciated. I have already reseated the chips, polished the tarnish off some chips the apparently had silver-plated pins, etc., to no avail. Have dumped the ROM (2708). Next plan is to disassemble that, and slap a logic analyzer on J2 which has all of the bus signals on it. Thanks in advance... JRJ This is why i collect cpu emulators. I have almost every kind made. I do however need some jumper headers for a 68000 HMI unit thats set for 68008 mode but thats another story. what main CPU does this use, 8080 or a Z80 or ??? -- The contents of this e-mail and any attachments are intended solely for the use of the named addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or privileged information. Any unauthorized use, copying, disclosure, or distribution of the contents of this e-mail is strictly prohibited by the sender and may be unlawful. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender immediately and delete this e-mail.
Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale
On 7/10/2015 9:52 PM, Randy Dawson wrote: Most of the Byte magazines are here: http://www.americanradiohistory.com/Byte_Magazine.htm Subject: Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale To:cctalk@classiccmp.org From:j...@jwsss.com Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2015 21:33:39 -0700 Here is what I'm looking for. There were several issues in the late 70's or more likely the early 80's when ACP in Santa Ana was really big in mail order, components, and took Apple for rights to set prices they wished to sell the product at. Apple was the first to challenge, and I think wrongly be able to create a single price, when the margin should be the call of the dealers they sell to. Anyway, that led to a lot of business, and the scale to have a lot of Byte ads. Several of them were text over a photo that Tom Freeman took at the ACP Swap meet. I was dead center in the photo in one aisle of the meet going full blast looking directly at the camera. I've not found it on any of the online versions, but I know there were issues it was published because Tom had one and called me when he found out there was someone recognizable in that photo. So I'd like to get hands on them and see if I can find such an issue. If anyone else feels like doing so I'd love a scan and a date, because I didn't find the cover (back I think) on any of the ones I got. And I think I have all of those gone thru. If I get them I will try to twist someones arm to deal with sending them, as I didn't follow thru on the last promise I made. But I hope not to have to trash them. Assuming they are still there and are near free in cost. thanks Jim
Re: OT: Pentium processor sizes
a 486 jump to p5~ impressive!! now to find one Collecting microprocessors is fun, and I am,trying to figure a way display the entire array in one large glass panel over it. Perhaps use a half of a sliding glass door as a cover over the display rack.frame. Any other ideas Ed # _www.smecc.org_ (http://www.smecc.org) In a message dated 7/10/2015 9:56:24 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, sca...@umich.edu writes: There absolutely was a P5 Overdrive from Intel for 486 motherboards ... I saw a few of them in the wild back in the day...
Re: VAX-11/750 registry (Was: Reviving a VAX-11/750)
In the registry that I was planning on creating, I was going to include a lot of 11/750-specific fields. Does it have a Unibus expansion cabinet? What control store does it have? From the responses that I have received so far, I have already run into questions about what should be listed as an 11/750. If someone wants to create a more general registry, I will support that effort as well. alan On 7/9/15 12:29 AM, Pontus Pihlgren wrote: Sorry for top-posting but having read this thread I feel you are discriminating for no real reason. Certainly, if the registry is a plain old text file with one maintainer then some limitations is probably good. But with an rdbms and a nice front then it could encompass all makes and models. Some filtering on the output and bobs your uncle. /P On Mon, Jul 06, 2015 at 08:03:12PM -0700, Alan Perry wrote: Is there any interest in starting a VAX-11/750 registry? I wouldn't mind knowing who else out there has one and where they are now. If you are interested, send me e-mail (vax11-...@snowmoose.com). alan On 7/4/15 1:40 PM, Toby Thain wrote: On 2015-07-04 4:35 PM, Mattis Lind wrote: Well. Despite all recent VAX-11/750 bashing it actually booted both VMS 6.1 and Ultrix-32 4.0 today. ... BTW. The CPU of the 11/750 is contained on five extended HEX boards, (L0002, L0003, L0004, L0008, L0011/L0016/L0022). Then there is the optional RMD (L0006) module and possible MBA and extra unibus adapters. I used a SCSI2SD card connected to a Emulex UC17 board. A booting 750: ... ULTRIX V4.0 (Rev. 161) (vax) login: root Password: As a fellow 11/750 owner (sadly, not yet restored), I salute you! --Toby
Re: VAX-11/750 registry (Was: Reviving a VAX-11/750)
What control store does it have? I'm not quite sure what you mean by that. Are you asking for the microcode revision? That would also apply to pretty much all VAXes. Probably referring to the L0005 CPU Control Store vs. L0008 Patchable Control Store. There's also a few types of L0008 (-YA, -YB, and -YC, IIRC), distinguished mostly by whether or not they contain any writable control store. jpw
Re: OT: Pentium processor sizes
... sorry, I really dislike Google Mail sometimes :O Here's a URL: http://www.intel.com/design/pentium/datashts/29054401.pdf Also a nice full-color pic here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentium_OverDrive Best, Sean On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 6:09 PM, Sean Caron sca...@umich.edu wrote: There absolutely was a P5 Overdrive from Intel for 486 motherboards ... I saw a few of them in the wild back in the day... On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 5:51 PM, jwsmobile j...@jwsss.com wrote: On 7/10/2015 1:21 PM, Joe Giliberti wrote: Hey. I'm sorry for the off topic post, but I couldn't think of another forum to ask my question. I'm just looking for information as to whether there are different sizes Pentium processor dependent upon whether the processor is for a desktop or laptop. I want to see if I can give my old Hewlett Packard OmniBook a little more juice. I don't recall there being any different processors in the first Pentium. The big effort in power reduction was by a group who did a power reduction project with the Pentium 3. Many of the laptops had full sized Pentiums with novel cooling to make them work in a portable laptop form factor. There were a series of projects where Intel did processors to upgrade previous families of chips with the newer technology. For example a 486 chip engineered to be happy with a 386 pin bus, but running at a higher clock, and similar upgrades for 486 systems. These were called Overdrive and were not power reduced as a goal of the product. The Pentium was a big enough step that I don't know of any such for the 486, where a Pentium could be stuffed in. The BIOS became enough of a factor in making the Pentium go that it was necessary. Such dropins they had were all self contained that I mention in the previous paragraph. The next act for Pentium (and quoting from this article) was MMX added in. Pentium II of course went to the infamous Slot 1 / 2 form factor. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_microprocessors#32-bit_processors:_P5_microarchitecture If you look up the processor you have in your Omnibook, some of the Pentium P5's could be upgraded, but you had to be careful as some had issues of being interchanged. Thanks Jim
Re: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice
- Original Message - From: devin davison lyokob...@gmail.com To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts cctalk@classiccmp.org Sent: Friday, July 10, 2015 2:05 PM Subject: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice I asked for advice a while back on what to expect with moving a pdp 11, I was told to lock the heads in the rx01 and rx02 drives. I'M getting pretty lost in all the information about the drives, are there any good guides or sites with lots of pictures of the drives taken from different angles apart so i can get a better idea of what im going to be working with? Also, people tell me getting the drives off the rails and out of the rack is a pain, where would i find the appropriate information on how to do that? I really don't want to take the drives out of the rack, but if it comes to it, i would like to know how. I am scheduled to pick this stuff up in 5 days. --Devin If the drives are RL02's then the thread below may help, I did a post with some pics http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/showthread.php?40361-Inspecting-and-Shipping-RL02-Drives DaveH
Re: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice
I made a mistake. I was reading about the floppy drive and accidentally mentioned the rx01 / rx02. The hardware to be moved is actually RL01/RL02 hard drives, not the floppy drive. Please forgive the mix up, any help is appreciated. On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 3:31 PM, Matt Patoray mspproducti...@gmail.com wrote: The RA60 is my least favorite drive to move. The thought of disassembling it crossed my mind but since it was being slid into a rack with a shelf and not on rails it would not have helped much, so just picked it up, carried it over and shoved it in. On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 3:22 PM, tony duell a...@p850ug1.demon.co.uk wrote: From: tony duell I find [RL0x's] easier than RK05s Try taking out an RA81! I did an R80 (not much lighter) single-handedly. The trick with those is to take the HDA out. It takes only a few minutes. Raise the logic chassis (top part of the case including the front panel), then lock the heads (you MUST do this anyway), release the belt tension (lever at the front right), then unplug 3 cables (2 small ones on the front of the HDA and a 40 way ribbon from the PCB on top), take off the 4 mouting nuts and lift the HDA up and out. Then tape the spindle pulley so it doesn't turn when moving the unit. If it turns backwards it is likely to damage the heads. The rest of the drive (chassis, PSU, motor, logic PCBs) is just about liftable fully assembled. I think the worst is the RA60. It's very heavy and it is a pain to dismantle. You have to take it apart a little bit at a time. -tony -- Matt Patoray Owner, MSP Productions (330)542-3698 mspproducti...@gmail.com KD8AMG Amateur Radio Call Sign
RE: VAX-11/750 registry (Was: Reviving a VAX-11/750)
Alan Perry [ape...@snowmoose.com] wrote: ... I was going to include a lot of 11/750-specific fields. Does it have a Unibus expansion cabinet? That would apply to all 7xx VAXes, as well as many of the 8xxx family. I don't think any others had a UBA option, but I could easily be wrong. What control store does it have? I'm not quite sure what you mean by that. Are you asking for the microcode revision? That would also apply to pretty much all VAXes. What other questions did you have in mind? Bob
Re: OT: Pentium processor sizes
If this is an old P5 Pentium, IIRC, it was the same CPU whether you were in a laptop or a desktop. I remember many of those early Pentium laptops; they ran incredibly hot and the battery life on them was just awful ... Depending on a myriad of factors ... whether or not your particular laptop's logic board has a socketed CPU; whether or not that laptop's planar allows you to tune the clock rate, divider, voltage etc. beyond just the stock settings; whether you've got an appropriate CPU on hand; there is a remote possibility it could be done ... That said, I would expect your chances to be better on a crummy generic laptop from that era; in my experience, laptops from the major vendors were more highly integrated ... there was more customization of i.e. the logic board and it's less likely that the logic board allows any variance from the stock configuration ... the generic laptops were a little more COTS-y and may be more amenable to modification although they tend to be less portable and not so well built. Best, Sean On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 4:25 PM, et...@757.org wrote: Hey. I'm sorry for the off topic post, but I couldn't think of another forum to ask my question. I'm just looking for information as to whether there are different sizes Pentium processor dependent upon whether the processor is for a desktop or laptop. I want to see if I can give my old Hewlett Packard OmniBook a little more juice. There are mobile specific processors. There are laptops that use socketed chips. There are laptops that I believe the CPUs are soldered in. A good trick is to try to find the motherboard for sale on eBay and see if there is a picture of it without any heatsink or heat exchanger. -- Ethan O'Toole
Re: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice
Once I do this myself i plan to put up a gallery of lots of pictures to help another newcomer such as myself. Not having seen the actual hardware is what gets me the most mixed up. On Sat, Jul 11, 2015 at 12:11 AM, devin davison lyokob...@gmail.com wrote: I made a mistake. I was reading about the floppy drive and accidentally mentioned the rx01 / rx02. The hardware to be moved is actually RL01/RL02 hard drives, not the floppy drive. Please forgive the mix up, any help is appreciated. On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 3:31 PM, Matt Patoray mspproducti...@gmail.com wrote: The RA60 is my least favorite drive to move. The thought of disassembling it crossed my mind but since it was being slid into a rack with a shelf and not on rails it would not have helped much, so just picked it up, carried it over and shoved it in. On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 3:22 PM, tony duell a...@p850ug1.demon.co.uk wrote: From: tony duell I find [RL0x's] easier than RK05s Try taking out an RA81! I did an R80 (not much lighter) single-handedly. The trick with those is to take the HDA out. It takes only a few minutes. Raise the logic chassis (top part of the case including the front panel), then lock the heads (you MUST do this anyway), release the belt tension (lever at the front right), then unplug 3 cables (2 small ones on the front of the HDA and a 40 way ribbon from the PCB on top), take off the 4 mouting nuts and lift the HDA up and out. Then tape the spindle pulley so it doesn't turn when moving the unit. If it turns backwards it is likely to damage the heads. The rest of the drive (chassis, PSU, motor, logic PCBs) is just about liftable fully assembled. I think the worst is the RA60. It's very heavy and it is a pain to dismantle. You have to take it apart a little bit at a time. -tony -- Matt Patoray Owner, MSP Productions (330)542-3698 mspproducti...@gmail.com KD8AMG Amateur Radio Call Sign
SGI Indy available for collection in Sao Paolo, Brasil
I think we've got a few active list members in Brasil, and somebody's got a nicely configured SGI Indy available for collection in Sao Paolo. it has irix 6.2 installed (maybe) and (may still have) Maya and Photoshop 1 with licenses. and medias for irix only. two hdds inside. maxed ram. external cd rom. camera. 24 bit graphics card. (i may be able to find the 8bit card). all cables (scsi, monitor, ...) if anyone want it, must pick it up in sao paulo soon. [...] oh and everything is very, very clean. Original post is at: http://forums.nekochan.net/viewtopic.php?f=4t=16729781 Please check the original post for contact details - I have nothing to do with this except for the re-posting. Hope somebody manages to rescue the beast, --S.
OT: captcha (was: Re: VAX-11/750 registry (Was: Reviving a VAX-11/750) )
On Jul 10, 2015, at 10:22 AM, Fred Cisin ci...@xenosoft.com wrote: Isn't third world labor cheap enough to out-source Captcha answering in bulk? Only if someone has a failure of imagination. Here’s the way the third-world interface on that application will probably look: “Exercises in applied colloquial English translation” “Only 35 insert local currency denomination per hour :-(
Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica
On Jul 10, 2015, at 8:48 AM, Paul Koning paulkon...@comcast.net wrote: Wow, it’s amazing that a device like that would be bothered by splines. It speaks to the lack of competence on the part of the implementer. Perhaps this problem dates back to the dark old ages of first generation cutters and has been cured by now? If not, you can approximate things with arcs, but for it to look reasonably close to correct you need more short arcs than you have now. I think CamBam hates splines too, although it will load them and work with them, just very slowly. I usually have to tell it to convert all splines to polyline approximations. I’ve never had any problems with splines with the lousy software I use with my vinyl cutter though. I load Illustrator 8 files and cut them without any issues. -- Follow me on twitter: @FozzTexx Check out my blog: http://insentricity.com
Re: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice
On Jul 10, 2015, at 10:18 AM, Noel Chiappa j...@mercury.lcs.mit.edu wrote: From: devin davison I was told to lock the heads in the rx01 and rx02 drives. Err, I think we told you to lock the heads the RL0x's, not RX0x's; the former use large rigid packs, the latter are 8 floppy drives. AFAIK, there is no need to lock RX heads when moving them - there is nothing in the manual about RX drives being shipped from DEC with the heads locks. That seems logical; stepper motors are to some extent self-locking. paul
Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica
On Jul 9, 2015, at 9:21 PM, ste...@malikoff.com wrote: Wow, I wake up and you blokes on the other side of the world have been busy during the night working at getting a bunch of details for me :) Thanks Barry, Pete, Paul, Noel, Bill, Adam for your responses - the measurements and photos are exactly what I need. I'll go through them in detail soon and adjust the drawing. Paul: I will revisit the postscript file and fix up mine from it. There's a reason I try to avoid splines in my CAD drawings, a long time ago I did DXFs for laser cutting some keyrings (see http://web.aanet.com.au/~malikoff/jeep/keyring) using splines. The cutter operator replaced them with arcs owing to their software not being able to process it properly. Since then I've avoided splines for any drawing I do that has a chance of being exported as a DXF (or SVG for that matter) that is to be fed to a CNC device. Wow, it’s amazing that a device like that would be bothered by splines. It speaks to the lack of competence on the part of the implementer. Perhaps this problem dates back to the dark old ages of first generation cutters and has been cured by now? If not, you can approximate things with arcs, but for it to look reasonably close to correct you need more short arcs than you have now. I'll also follow up on your observation about the variations in the handbooks font, I'm sure I'll find them on bitsavers. Not on bitsavers as far as I know (though Al is welcome to place a copy there if he wants to do so). But you can find it on John Wilson’s site, at http://www.dbit.com/pub/misc/handbook.ttf paul
Re: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice
Make sure the doors are shut. I used to tape them. Remove any floppies you care about. Some of the non-DEC 8” drives used to come with a cardboard blank. But these were double sided disks and the blank was meant (I believe) to prevent the heads from banging against each other. Jerry Weiss j...@ieee.org On Jul 10, 2015, at 10:40 AM, Paul Koning paulkon...@comcast.net wrote: On Jul 10, 2015, at 10:18 AM, Noel Chiappa j...@mercury.lcs.mit.edu wrote: From: devin davison I was told to lock the heads in the rx01 and rx02 drives. Err, I think we told you to lock the heads the RL0x's, not RX0x's; the former use large rigid packs, the latter are 8 floppy drives. AFAIK, there is no need to lock RX heads when moving them - there is nothing in the manual about RX drives being shipped from DEC with the heads locks. That seems logical; stepper motors are to some extent self-locking. paul
PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice
I asked for advice a while back on what to expect with moving a pdp 11, I was told to lock the heads in the rx01 and rx02 drives. I'M getting pretty lost in all the information about the drives, are there any good guides or sites with lots of pictures of the drives taken from different angles apart so i can get a better idea of what im going to be working with? Also, people tell me getting the drives off the rails and out of the rack is a pain, where would i find the appropriate information on how to do that? I really don't want to take the drives out of the rack, but if it comes to it, i would like to know how. I am scheduled to pick this stuff up in 5 days. --Devin
Re: VAX-11/750 registry (Was: Reviving a VAX-11/750)
On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 7:36 AM, Jay West jw...@classiccmp.org wrote: One problem is going to be authentication. If it has any contact information (and it seems like it would need to in order to be useful) then it's gonna become a target for SPAM. Captcha? And if you add a simple question in plain english to that, it will foil mechanical turks and other ways designed to break CAPTCHAs. -- Regards, Torfinn
RE: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice
I asked for advice a while back on what to expect with moving a pdp 11, I was told to lock the heads in the rx01 and rx02 drives. I'M getting pretty No. The RX01 and RX02 are dual 8 floppy drives. There is no need (or way) to lock the heads in those. Both are single head units, so there is no need fpr a shipping disk either (on dual head units, the heads can bang into each other if the drive is knocked about, but on a single head unit like an RX02 or RX02 it will bang into the felt pressure pad which does no damage at all). The ones to lock are the RL01 and RL02 (and all RKs, and...) These are 14 hard disk units. Actually, the RL positioner is pretty stiff. My experience is that if the drive is transported front panel upwards, the heads won't move. Of course it depends on how far you are moving it and over what sort of roads! lost in all the information about the drives, are there any good guides or sites with lots of pictures of the drives taken from different angles apart so i can get a better idea of what im going to be working with? Also, You want to read _all_ the applicable manuals on Bitsavers. For the RL, at least the user guide and maintenance/technical manuals. people tell me getting the drives off the rails and out of the rack is a pain, where would i find the appropriate information on how to do that? I really don't want to take the drives out of the rack, but if it comes to it, i would like to know how. I am scheduled to pick this stuff up in 5 days. It'll be in the same manuals (or at least how to mount them is, which is as useful :-)). FWIW, I took my first RL01s out of their little rack to move them and hadn't even seen the DEC manual. I found it dead easy. I do not know what all the fuss is about. I had to take several RL's out for a recent house move and it took me a few minutes total. I find them easier than RK05s in that you remove the screws, the drives stay put. You release the catches and slide the drive forward, it stays on the slides. Then you lift it off. With the RKs, you pull it of the sliders and it suddenly comes free and you and a friend suddenly get all the weight. -tony --Devin
Re: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice
See page 2-8 for a view of the packing configuration. http://www.pdp8online.com/pdp8cgi/query_docs/tifftopdf.pl/pdp8docs/ek-0rx02-tm-001.pdf http://www.pdp8online.com/pdp8cgi/query_docs/tifftopdf.pl/pdp8docs/ek-0rx02-tm-001.pdf Jerry Weiss j...@ieee.org On Jul 10, 2015, at 10:57 AM, Jerry Weiss j...@ieee.org wrote: Make sure the doors are shut. I used to tape them. Remove any floppies you care about. Some of the non-DEC 8” drives used to come with a cardboard blank. But these were double sided disks and the blank was meant (I believe) to prevent the heads from banging against each other. Jerry Weiss j...@ieee.org On Jul 10, 2015, at 10:40 AM, Paul Koning paulkon...@comcast.net wrote: On Jul 10, 2015, at 10:18 AM, Noel Chiappa j...@mercury.lcs.mit.edu wrote: From: devin davison I was told to lock the heads in the rx01 and rx02 drives. Err, I think we told you to lock the heads the RL0x's, not RX0x's; the former use large rigid packs, the latter are 8 floppy drives. AFAIK, there is no need to lock RX heads when moving them - there is nothing in the manual about RX drives being shipped from DEC with the heads locks. That seems logical; stepper motors are to some extent self-locking. paul
RE: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice
From: tony duell I find [RL0x's] easier than RK05s Try taking out an RA81! I did an R80 (not much lighter) single-handedly. The trick with those is to take the HDA out. It takes only a few minutes. Raise the logic chassis (top part of the case including the front panel), then lock the heads (you MUST do this anyway), release the belt tension (lever at the front right), then unplug 3 cables (2 small ones on the front of the HDA and a 40 way ribbon from the PCB on top), take off the 4 mouting nuts and lift the HDA up and out. Then tape the spindle pulley so it doesn't turn when moving the unit. If it turns backwards it is likely to damage the heads. The rest of the drive (chassis, PSU, motor, logic PCBs) is just about liftable fully assembled. I think the worst is the RA60. It's very heavy and it is a pain to dismantle. You have to take it apart a little bit at a time. -tony
Re: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice
The RA60 is my least favorite drive to move. The thought of disassembling it crossed my mind but since it was being slid into a rack with a shelf and not on rails it would not have helped much, so just picked it up, carried it over and shoved it in. On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 3:22 PM, tony duell a...@p850ug1.demon.co.uk wrote: From: tony duell I find [RL0x's] easier than RK05s Try taking out an RA81! I did an R80 (not much lighter) single-handedly. The trick with those is to take the HDA out. It takes only a few minutes. Raise the logic chassis (top part of the case including the front panel), then lock the heads (you MUST do this anyway), release the belt tension (lever at the front right), then unplug 3 cables (2 small ones on the front of the HDA and a 40 way ribbon from the PCB on top), take off the 4 mouting nuts and lift the HDA up and out. Then tape the spindle pulley so it doesn't turn when moving the unit. If it turns backwards it is likely to damage the heads. The rest of the drive (chassis, PSU, motor, logic PCBs) is just about liftable fully assembled. I think the worst is the RA60. It's very heavy and it is a pain to dismantle. You have to take it apart a little bit at a time. -tony -- Matt Patoray Owner, MSP Productions (330)542-3698 mspproducti...@gmail.com KD8AMG Amateur Radio Call Sign
Re: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice
From: tony duell I find [RL0x's] easier than RK05s Try taking out an RA81! (Somewhere I have pictures of the rig I built to take a couple of RA81's out of some racks I was sent. I should post them...) Noel
Re: VAX-11/750 registry (Was: Reviving a VAX-11/750)
On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 7:36 AM, Jay West jw...@classiccmp.org wrote: One problem is going to be authentication. If it has any contact information (and it seems like it would need to in order to be useful) then it's gonna become a target for SPAM. Captcha? Isn'y third world labor cheap enough to out-source Captcha answering in bulk?
Re: OT: Pentium processor sizes
On 7/10/2015 1:21 PM, Joe Giliberti wrote: Hey. I'm sorry for the off topic post, but I couldn't think of another forum to ask my question. I'm just looking for information as to whether there are different sizes Pentium processor dependent upon whether the processor is for a desktop or laptop. I want to see if I can give my old Hewlett Packard OmniBook a little more juice. I don't recall there being any different processors in the first Pentium. The big effort in power reduction was by a group who did a power reduction project with the Pentium 3. Many of the laptops had full sized Pentiums with novel cooling to make them work in a portable laptop form factor. There were a series of projects where Intel did processors to upgrade previous families of chips with the newer technology. For example a 486 chip engineered to be happy with a 386 pin bus, but running at a higher clock, and similar upgrades for 486 systems. These were called Overdrive and were not power reduced as a goal of the product. The Pentium was a big enough step that I don't know of any such for the 486, where a Pentium could be stuffed in. The BIOS became enough of a factor in making the Pentium go that it was necessary. Such dropins they had were all self contained that I mention in the previous paragraph. The next act for Pentium (and quoting from this article) was MMX added in. Pentium II of course went to the infamous Slot 1 / 2 form factor. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_microprocessors#32-bit_processors:_P5_microarchitecture If you look up the processor you have in your Omnibook, some of the Pentium P5's could be upgraded, but you had to be careful as some had issues of being interchanged. Thanks Jim
OT: Pentium processor sizes
Hey. I'm sorry for the off topic post, but I couldn't think of another forum to ask my question. I'm just looking for information as to whether there are different sizes Pentium processor dependent upon whether the processor is for a desktop or laptop. I want to see if I can give my old Hewlett Packard OmniBook a little more juice.
Re: OT: Pentium processor sizes
Hey. I'm sorry for the off topic post, but I couldn't think of another forum to ask my question. I'm just looking for information as to whether there are different sizes Pentium processor dependent upon whether the processor is for a desktop or laptop. I want to see if I can give my old Hewlett Packard OmniBook a little more juice. There are mobile specific processors. There are laptops that use socketed chips. There are laptops that I believe the CPUs are soldered in. A good trick is to try to find the motherboard for sale on eBay and see if there is a picture of it without any heatsink or heat exchanger. -- Ethan O'Toole
