Re: Need VT-100 switch

[Ethan Dicks via cctalk]

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 3:04 PM, E. Groenenberg via cctalk
 wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Does somebody maybe have a spare switch of a VT-100 (the one at the back)?

I don't (and have a PSU that needs one) but I'm glad you asked.  The
other answers have been helpful to me here in the U.S.

-ethan

Re: Need VT-100 switch

[E. Groenenberg via cctalk]

Thanks for the info.
I'm in the Netherlands, so no Home Depot branch here, but now I have seen
the picture of the replacement I can look locally or check with
digikey/farnell to see what they have in their catalog of switches.

Regards,

Ed
--
Ik email, dus ik besta.


On Tue, August 29, 2017 21:47, Santo Nucifora via cctalk wrote:
> I've replied to this and helped someone else out before as it seems to be
> a
> frequent question.
>
> I've replaced two VT-100 switches with chrome "bat" handle switches from
> Home Depot in Canada shown here:
> https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.t...000104171.html
> 
>  The one at the USA Home Depot is here:
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-20-Amp-Double-Pole-Toggle-Switch-1-Pack-GSW-14/100149490
>
> I had to remove the screws and filed the terminals down a little because
> the terminals were a little wider than the original connectors but it
> works
> like a charm and will not break. It is almost a direct replacement (except
> for the terminals needing some filing).
>
> You can probably pick one up on the way home if you are in North America.
>
> Hope this helps.
> Santo
>
> On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 3:38 PM, John Wilson via cctalk <
> cctalk@classiccmp.org> wrote:
>
>> On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 09:04:11PM +0200, E. Groenenberg via cctalk
>> wrote:
>> >Does somebody maybe have a spare switch of a VT-100 (the one at the
>> back)?
>>
>> If you get stuck, there's a switch that's made as a replacement part for
>> Fender guitar amps which, apart from having a metal handle instead of
>> plastic, is a very close match to the VT100 power switch.  Really it's
>> what DEC *should* have used ...
>>
>> John Wilson
>> D Bit
>>
>

Re: COMTRAN [was: IEEE publishes "In Search of the Original Fortran Compiler" ...]

[Paul McJones via cctalk]

> On Aug 28, 2017, Chuck Guzis wrote:
> 
> Related to this, did Bob Bemer ever preserve a copy of IBM COMTRAN
> source?   For those unaware of it, this was one of the predecessors of
> COBOL.
> …

It turns out that Paul Pierce’s IBSYS source tapes [1] include a version of the 
IBM COMTRAN (aka CT aka Commercial Translator) source code, and Rich Cornwell 
has extracted it and set up jobs to rebuild the translator and its library from 
source. See the bottom of his web page [2] for the jobs, tapes, and listings. 
Rich notes, "If he gets it to work, and wants to send some test jobs I would 
love that.”

[1] http://www.piercefuller.com/oldibm-shadow/709x.html
[2] http://sky-visions.com/ibm/ibsys_tapes.shtml

Re: DEC ll/03 in 22 bit backplane

[Douglas Taylor via cctalk]

On 8/30/2017 12:10 AM, Ethan Dicks wrote:

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 10:52 PM, Douglas Taylor via cctalk
 wrote:

I have a BA11-M box with a backplane that I am sure has been upgraded to be
22 bit addressing.

If you send me a picture of the backplane part of the box (without the
outer shroud), I might be able to help.   I think I have some 4x4 Qbus
backplanes, which are likely to be Q16 or Q18 not Q22 that have no box
but may be the former contents of a BA11-M.  I know they aren't part
of a BA11-N, because I have 2 of those that I use with RLV11s.  The
paper tag on the backplane says "LSI-11" (the type of tag that might
say DD11-CK or DD11-DK when applied to those backplanes).


If so, does anyone have spare MSV11-DD 64kb memory and DLV11 type serial
cards for sale/trade?

I think those cards are easy to find.  Among the most common Qbus
cards.  I have some, as do others on this list.

-ethan


I'll send along a picture of the rear of the back plane.  I'm getting 
the impression I can't do what I want with the old cpu cards, M7270 and 
M7264.


I had really hoped to be able to put together a simple system to 
demonstrate the differences in processing power between the 11/2 cpu, 
the 11/23 and the 11/73.


They are all dual width cards and it would have been simple to swap them 
out.  I think to do it I would need 2 boxes, one with a 16 bit backplane 
and the other with a 22 bit backplane.

Re: DEC ll/03 in 22 bit backplane

[Douglas Taylor via cctalk]

On 8/29/2017 11:43 PM, Jerry Weiss via cctalk wrote:

On Aug 29, 2017, at 9:52 PM, Douglas Taylor via cctalk  
wrote:

I have a BA11-M box with a backplane that I am sure has been upgraded to be 22 
bit addressing.

When I got this box it had an 11/23 Dual width Cpu, MXV11-AC with custom boot 
ROMs and a 256KB MSV11-P memory board.  The memory in the MXV11 had been 
disabled so I suspect the backplane was upgraded to 22 bit.

What I want to do is put a LSI 11/2 (M7270) and/or LSI 11/03 (M7264) into this 
box and construct a minimal, basic PDP11.  This system would have 64kb of 
memory, some kind of serial interface and an Emulex UC07 running a SCSI disk or 
SCSI2SD adapter.  The OS would be RT11 V5.3.

Can I operate these Cpu's in a 22 bit backplane?

If so, does anyone have spare MSV11-DD 64kb memory and DLV11 type serial cards 
for sale/trade?



Micronote 5 does not list the LSI 11/2 or 11/03 processors as being compatible 
with Q22.
See section II oin  http://decvax.50megs.com/doc/uNotes/micronote5.html 
 for the details.

The upgrades to Q22 were commonly done with wire-wrap.  You could unwrap the 
modification.


I think I've seen those in the past.  The backplane I have has something 
soldered on each side of the backplane (in the rear, where the wire wrap 
pins are).


The micronote says that I can't do what I want to do.  The 11/2 and 
11/03 Cpus use some of those address lines for something else.  So I 
couldn't use the UC07.


It looks like a trip down memory lane that I can't make.

Re: DEC ll/03 in 22 bit backplane

[Ethan Dicks via cctalk]

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 10:52 PM, Douglas Taylor via cctalk
 wrote:
> I have a BA11-M box with a backplane that I am sure has been upgraded to be
> 22 bit addressing.

If you send me a picture of the backplane part of the box (without the
outer shroud), I might be able to help.   I think I have some 4x4 Qbus
backplanes, which are likely to be Q16 or Q18 not Q22 that have no box
but may be the former contents of a BA11-M.  I know they aren't part
of a BA11-N, because I have 2 of those that I use with RLV11s.  The
paper tag on the backplane says "LSI-11" (the type of tag that might
say DD11-CK or DD11-DK when applied to those backplanes).

> If so, does anyone have spare MSV11-DD 64kb memory and DLV11 type serial
> cards for sale/trade?

I think those cards are easy to find.  Among the most common Qbus
cards.  I have some, as do others on this list.

-ethan

Re: DEC ll/03 in 22 bit backplane

[Jerry Weiss via cctalk]

> On Aug 29, 2017, at 9:52 PM, Douglas Taylor via cctalk 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have a BA11-M box with a backplane that I am sure has been upgraded to be 
> 22 bit addressing.
> 
> When I got this box it had an 11/23 Dual width Cpu, MXV11-AC with custom boot 
> ROMs and a 256KB MSV11-P memory board.  The memory in the MXV11 had been 
> disabled so I suspect the backplane was upgraded to 22 bit.
> 
> What I want to do is put a LSI 11/2 (M7270) and/or LSI 11/03 (M7264) into 
> this box and construct a minimal, basic PDP11.  This system would have 64kb 
> of memory, some kind of serial interface and an Emulex UC07 running a SCSI 
> disk or SCSI2SD adapter.  The OS would be RT11 V5.3.
> 
> Can I operate these Cpu's in a 22 bit backplane?
> 
> If so, does anyone have spare MSV11-DD 64kb memory and DLV11 type serial 
> cards for sale/trade?
> 
> 

Micronote 5 does not list the LSI 11/2 or 11/03 processors as being compatible 
with Q22. 
See section II oin  http://decvax.50megs.com/doc/uNotes/micronote5.html 
 for the details.

The upgrades to Q22 were commonly done with wire-wrap.  You could unwrap the 
modification.

Re: DEC ll/03 in 22 bit backplane

[Paul Anderson via cctalk]

I have the DEC cards, but I think that box had a 4 x 4 backplane and came
with 16 bit addressing (M7264) and could be upgraded to 18.  I'm out of
town so I can't really check. You might need a BA11-N, S, or BA23 box to
support the Emulex controller.

The Q-bus backplanes can be confusing and I don't trust my memory on them.

Paul

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 9:52 PM, Douglas Taylor via cctalk <
cctalk@classiccmp.org> wrote:

> I have a BA11-M box with a backplane that I am sure has been upgraded to
> be 22 bit addressing.
>
> When I got this box it had an 11/23 Dual width Cpu, MXV11-AC with custom
> boot ROMs and a 256KB MSV11-P memory board.  The memory in the MXV11 had
> been disabled so I suspect the backplane was upgraded to 22 bit.
>
> What I want to do is put a LSI 11/2 (M7270) and/or LSI 11/03 (M7264) into
> this box and construct a minimal, basic PDP11.  This system would have 64kb
> of memory, some kind of serial interface and an Emulex UC07 running a SCSI
> disk or SCSI2SD adapter.  The OS would be RT11 V5.3.
>
> Can I operate these Cpu's in a 22 bit backplane?
>
> If so, does anyone have spare MSV11-DD 64kb memory and DLV11 type serial
> cards for sale/trade?
>
>
>

DEC ll/03 in 22 bit backplane

[Douglas Taylor via cctalk]

I have a BA11-M box with a backplane that I am sure has been upgraded to 
be 22 bit addressing.


When I got this box it had an 11/23 Dual width Cpu, MXV11-AC with custom 
boot ROMs and a 256KB MSV11-P memory board.  The memory in the MXV11 had 
been disabled so I suspect the backplane was upgraded to 22 bit.


What I want to do is put a LSI 11/2 (M7270) and/or LSI 11/03 (M7264) 
into this box and construct a minimal, basic PDP11.  This system would 
have 64kb of memory, some kind of serial interface and an Emulex UC07 
running a SCSI disk or SCSI2SD adapter.  The OS would be RT11 V5.3.


Can I operate these Cpu's in a 22 bit backplane?

If so, does anyone have spare MSV11-DD 64kb memory and DLV11 type serial 
cards for sale/trade?

RE: PSU Input Rectifier Question

[Rob Jarratt via cctalk]

Good idea to drain them first, I will do that. Having never encountered
snap-ins before I don't know, but from the way you describe removal I
suspect they are snap-in, as the leads are quite tightly against the sides
of the holes and won't move even if I have heated them up. I hope that
cutting the tops off will eventually expose the individual pins so they will
be more easily removed.

 

Regards

 

Rob

 

From: dwight [mailto:dkel...@hotmail.com] 
Sent: 29 August 2017 22:25
To: r...@jarratt.me.uk; Rob Jarratt ; General
Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts 
Subject: Re: PSU Input Rectifier Question

 

They would have electrolyte in them. It is mildly corrosive as it is mostly
a borate solution. You can drill a couple holes in the tops of the case and
drain them.

Since you say you've unsoldered the bases, are they wire or snap in. If snap
in, you must get the lead clear of any solder touching the edge of the hole
before you can think of any prying.

Dwight

 

  _  

From: cctalk  > on behalf of Rob Jarratt via cctalk
 >
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 1:01:14 PM
To: 'Maciej W. Rozycki'; 'General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts'
Subject: RE: PSU Input Rectifier Question 

 



> -Original Message-
> From: Maciej W. Rozycki [mailto:ma...@linux-mips.org]
> Sent: 29 August 2017 01:06
> To: r...@jarratt.me.uk  ; Rob Jarratt
 >; General
> Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts  >
> Cc: 'Tapley, Mark'  >
> Subject: RE: PSU Input Rectifier Question
> 
> On Tue, 29 Aug 2017, Rob Jarratt via cctalk wrote:
> 
> > Not really no. The base of the capacitors is actually touching the
> > board, so I can't get under it to cut anything anyway, which is why I
> > am thinking I would have to cut the tops off them. Even if I could cut
> > one of the leads, I can't solder a capacitor underneath as that is
> > where the board is mounted into the enclosure, there is only room for
> > the mounting standoffs on the underside.
> 
>  If you need to replace the caps anyway, then I think just cutting through
the
> outer PET sleeve should do as chances are it's only the sleeve that's got
glued
> and not the leads or the closing cap.  Then you might be able to just pull
the
> inner aluminium can containing the capacitor itself from the sleeve and
with
> the component proper out of the way get rid of any remains from the PCB.
> 

Thanks Maciej,

I would just like to make doubly sure, before cutting into the outer body of
the caps, am I likely to hit any gotchas? Just how wet are they inside, do I
need to take any precautions with the electrolyte?


>  NB the originals are just snap-in capacitors AFAIK, e.g. Chemi-Con KMH
series
> (I can't figure that out from your photos and luckily none of my H7878s
has
> failed so far, so I haven't made this a part list for this PSU for
myself), still
> manufactured, so modern replacements should do.  With the PCB hole
> diameter supposed to be 2mm by the manufacturer's spec I wouldn't be
> bothered with a small lead pitch variation, you can always bend the leads
> slightly as there's some space between the closing cap and the rim that
rests
> against the PCB.
> 


I did wonder if there would be enough tolerance. I have never encountered
these snap-in ones before, I don't know what they are like. Sounds like I
can try some snap-ins, which widens the choice immeasurably.


>  Also I would't be bothered about the LED holder getting damaged; it's a
> standard piece, available online.  I can dig out the part numbers,
separate for
> individual pieces of the holder (you can match different kinds against
each
> other, depending on your needs), if that would help; I ordered a bunch a
while
> ago for my own use.
> 

I found some LED holders/clips which do seem to fit the bill, although I am
not sure I see how you get the old LED out, unless you have to break the
thing.

Regards

Rob

Re: DCC-116 E / DATA GENERAL NOVA 2/10 / Nixdorf 620 - Restoring and restarting

[Torfinn Ingolfsen via cctalk]

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 10:44 PM, Dominique Carlier via cctalk
 wrote:
> YES! The monster booting again! :-)

Congratulations! Well done!
Thanks for sharing the story and the pictures.
-- 
Regards,
Torfinn Ingolfsen

Re: PSU Input Rectifier Question

[dwight via cctalk]

They would have electrolyte in them. It is mildly corrosive as it is mostly a 
borate solution. You can drill a couple holes in the tops of the case and drain 
them.

Since you say you've unsoldered the bases, are they wire or snap in. If snap 
in, you must get the lead clear of any solder touching the edge of the hole 
before you can think of any prying.

Dwight



From: cctalk  on behalf of Rob Jarratt via 
cctalk 
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 1:01:14 PM
To: 'Maciej W. Rozycki'; 'General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts'
Subject: RE: PSU Input Rectifier Question



> -Original Message-
> From: Maciej W. Rozycki [mailto:ma...@linux-mips.org]
> Sent: 29 August 2017 01:06
> To: r...@jarratt.me.uk; Rob Jarratt ; General
> Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts 
> Cc: 'Tapley, Mark' 
> Subject: RE: PSU Input Rectifier Question
>
> On Tue, 29 Aug 2017, Rob Jarratt via cctalk wrote:
>
> > Not really no. The base of the capacitors is actually touching the
> > board, so I can't get under it to cut anything anyway, which is why I
> > am thinking I would have to cut the tops off them. Even if I could cut
> > one of the leads, I can't solder a capacitor underneath as that is
> > where the board is mounted into the enclosure, there is only room for
> > the mounting standoffs on the underside.
>
>  If you need to replace the caps anyway, then I think just cutting through
the
> outer PET sleeve should do as chances are it's only the sleeve that's got
glued
> and not the leads or the closing cap.  Then you might be able to just pull
the
> inner aluminium can containing the capacitor itself from the sleeve and
with
> the component proper out of the way get rid of any remains from the PCB.
>

Thanks Maciej,

I would just like to make doubly sure, before cutting into the outer body of
the caps, am I likely to hit any gotchas? Just how wet are they inside, do I
need to take any precautions with the electrolyte?


>  NB the originals are just snap-in capacitors AFAIK, e.g. Chemi-Con KMH
series
> (I can't figure that out from your photos and luckily none of my H7878s
has
> failed so far, so I haven't made this a part list for this PSU for
myself), still
> manufactured, so modern replacements should do.  With the PCB hole
> diameter supposed to be 2mm by the manufacturer's spec I wouldn't be
> bothered with a small lead pitch variation, you can always bend the leads
> slightly as there's some space between the closing cap and the rim that
rests
> against the PCB.
>


I did wonder if there would be enough tolerance. I have never encountered
these snap-in ones before, I don't know what they are like. Sounds like I
can try some snap-ins, which widens the choice immeasurably.


>  Also I would't be bothered about the LED holder getting damaged; it's a
> standard piece, available online.  I can dig out the part numbers,
separate for
> individual pieces of the holder (you can match different kinds against
each
> other, depending on your needs), if that would help; I ordered a bunch a
while
> ago for my own use.
>

I found some LED holders/clips which do seem to fit the bill, although I am
not sure I see how you get the old LED out, unless you have to break the
thing.

Regards

Rob

RE: Bridge Communication Unibus Ethernet board?

[Henk Gooijen via cctalk]

Van: Mattis Lind via cctalk
Verzonden: dinsdag 29 augustus 2017 20:29
Aan: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic 
Posts
Onderwerp: Bridge Communication Unibus Ethernet board?

Does anyone have more info about this (dusty) board:

http://forum.datormuseum.se/data/87681DD5-B816-494C-AA4C-D8DB3FA35406/F7AD48D3-5450-4860-A0C9-23CB7277AC91.jpg

Plenty of onboard memory just for packet buffering?

/Mattis


Never seen before.
Is there an “M” nummber on the board or on a handle?

As the DELUA uses the M68000 and this board apparently too,
but with *two* headers (DELUA has one), a network bridge is
plausible. Is “Bridge Communication Unibus Ethernet” in the etch?

Re: DCC-116 E / DATA GENERAL NOVA 2/10 / Nixdorf 620 - Restoring and restarting

[Dominique Carlier via cctalk]

YES! The monster booting again! :-)

Thus after checking the condition of the capacitors and the rectifying 
diodes by interchanging the 5v sources under the advice of Curious Marc, 
a finally swapped Q12 and Q13, find the dead one, replace Q13. Following 
the advice of Christian I raised both regulated + 5V by taking into 
account the resistance of the circuit. It was a good advice because in 
full load, it was missing something like 0.3V.


Finally I was for sure with a machine that would running but not booting.

As I suspected a problem with the OS installed in the core memory and on 
the Diablo 44 I tried in vain to reinstall this OS (Didos) from tape 
drive, unsuccessfully. To spice things up ,the machine fall in 
protection because of an overheating in the power supply G1.
I open for the 20th time these two PSU, to find that the fan of G1 is 
dead, I tried to repair it but the coil is downright grilled. It's good 
news. I find another fan, I do not have a 115VAC in stock , I solder new 
wires to feed 220VAC to the "new" fan. Problem solved !


http://www.zeltrax.com/classiccmp_forum/second_boot/00a.jpg
http://www.zeltrax.com/classiccmp_forum/second_boot/00b.jpg

And now let's go to find the problem on the Pertec tape drive side, 
engine control works, it's like if it reading/receive nothing,  I 
cleaning the read head again, connectors (read, write, control), I 
linger on the front buttons and bingo! The lamp of the switch 500/800 
BPI stays lit regardless of the real state, thus I was trying to read 
800 bpi tape under 500 bpi modewithout knowing. Small but vicious failure.


After that I was able to install from the master tape a new version of 
this OS, YES ! I reformatted the Diablo disk, I made read tests, writing 
with various devices, all seems OK!!

I'm happy, this machine comes back from afar ;-)

I have five Entrex terminals but I will already take care of the one 
currently active, it must be cleaned from top to bottom. The plastic of 
the hull is yellowed by the years, I think I will not have fun to do 
retrobright, I will squarely repaint it. The keyboard works well but 
some touch contacts are a bit recalcitrant. About the printer there is 
work, I will rather concentrate about the Operating System because here, 
besides the small happening aesthetic that I allow myself to do now, it 
is imperative that I find an Operating System, a real OS and even several.


The stuff currently installed is very basic, extremely closed, hyper 
limited, for my part this OS does not even deserve the name of OS, it is 
a simple data acquisition software with some abstruse utilities, DIDOS 
was Developed by Nixdorf for its "own" model 620, a D-116 (17 slots) 
made up of Digital Computer Control (itself being a clone of Nova 1200).
As I describe in other posts, the CPU seems to have been upgraded since 
it dates from 1978 while some maintenance control stickers date from 
1976, another on a multiplexing card for terminals Entrex displays 1974.


I'm going on the idea of ​​finding RDOS for the 16-bit Nova line, but 
maybe I could install a newer OS (eg AOS for the 16-bit Eclipse)? I also 
read many pages on which it was also a question of DG-DOS, RTOS, NIROS 
 know you others?


In any case one thing is sure: I searched for hours and I did not find 
anything to make a new op-sys tape to install something else instead of 
my pathetic Didos. The only downloadable data I found, some RDOS sources 
for SIMH which emulates the DG NOVA. Do any of you know where I might 
find these precious data?

Of course I also look for a maximum of programs to install on the monster.

For info I have a VAX 4000-605A with a TU81 + (currently disconnected) 
but which would allow me to write a tape with data transiting thru my 
home network.
Otherwise I also have a Shugart (KENNEDY) 9612 which can write in 800, 
1600, 3200 or 6250 bpi, this tape drive is equipped with a SCSI interface.


https://computerarchive.org/files/comp/hardware/Shugart%20Kennedy%209-track%209610%20tape%20drives.pdf

I have not analyzed if I can connect it directly to a good old Adaptec 
controller inside a PC, nor with which program I could exploit it.

Besides if you have information about this they are welcome!

And finally,  while waiting for the video, here some pictures of the 
machine in operation ;-)


http://www.zeltrax.com/classiccmp_forum/second_boot/01.jpg

http://www.zeltrax.com/classiccmp_forum/second_boot/02.jpg

http://www.zeltrax.com/classiccmp_forum/second_boot/03.jpg

http://www.zeltrax.com/classiccmp_forum/second_boot/04.jpg

Dominique

PS: AJ, some pics of the Entrex terminal for you above ;-)

RE: PSU Input Rectifier Question

[Rob Jarratt via cctalk]

> -Original Message-
> From: Maciej W. Rozycki [mailto:ma...@linux-mips.org]
> Sent: 29 August 2017 01:06
> To: r...@jarratt.me.uk; Rob Jarratt ; General
> Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts 
> Cc: 'Tapley, Mark' 
> Subject: RE: PSU Input Rectifier Question
> 
> On Tue, 29 Aug 2017, Rob Jarratt via cctalk wrote:
> 
> > Not really no. The base of the capacitors is actually touching the
> > board, so I can't get under it to cut anything anyway, which is why I
> > am thinking I would have to cut the tops off them. Even if I could cut
> > one of the leads, I can't solder a capacitor underneath as that is
> > where the board is mounted into the enclosure, there is only room for
> > the mounting standoffs on the underside.
> 
>  If you need to replace the caps anyway, then I think just cutting through
the
> outer PET sleeve should do as chances are it's only the sleeve that's got
glued
> and not the leads or the closing cap.  Then you might be able to just pull
the
> inner aluminium can containing the capacitor itself from the sleeve and
with
> the component proper out of the way get rid of any remains from the PCB.
> 

Thanks Maciej,

I would just like to make doubly sure, before cutting into the outer body of
the caps, am I likely to hit any gotchas? Just how wet are they inside, do I
need to take any precautions with the electrolyte?


>  NB the originals are just snap-in capacitors AFAIK, e.g. Chemi-Con KMH
series
> (I can't figure that out from your photos and luckily none of my H7878s
has
> failed so far, so I haven't made this a part list for this PSU for
myself), still
> manufactured, so modern replacements should do.  With the PCB hole
> diameter supposed to be 2mm by the manufacturer's spec I wouldn't be
> bothered with a small lead pitch variation, you can always bend the leads
> slightly as there's some space between the closing cap and the rim that
rests
> against the PCB.
> 


I did wonder if there would be enough tolerance. I have never encountered
these snap-in ones before, I don't know what they are like. Sounds like I
can try some snap-ins, which widens the choice immeasurably.


>  Also I would't be bothered about the LED holder getting damaged; it's a
> standard piece, available online.  I can dig out the part numbers,
separate for
> individual pieces of the holder (you can match different kinds against
each
> other, depending on your needs), if that would help; I ordered a bunch a
while
> ago for my own use.
> 

I found some LED holders/clips which do seem to fit the bill, although I am
not sure I see how you get the old LED out, unless you have to break the
thing.

Regards

Rob

Re: VCF Midwest: 6502 Badges!

[Jason T via cctalk]

On Mon, Aug 28, 2017 at 12:30 PM, Vince Mulhollon via cctalk
 wrote:
> I'd reject a refund if one is proposed, since I can't go to the show, toss
> my $5 in the "round of beer" fund for the badge team.

Lee tells me that an hour or so on the phone with PayPal resolved the
automatic-shipping issue.  But if not, he's set up to refund shipping
if necessary.

-j

Re: VCF Midwest: 6502 Badges!

[Jason T via cctalk]

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 12:58 AM, Ed via cctalk  wrote:
> cant  go to the show  but  would like  a built   one
> my soldering hands are  poor in age.Ed#

Ed - Lee Hart's contact info is on his page.  I don't know what sort
of time he has before the show but you might ask him to put aside a
kit to build later at some additional cost.  I don't have anything to
do with fulfilling the kit orders (and you don't want me building
yours!)

-j

Re: Need VT-100 switch

[Santo Nucifora via cctalk]

I've replied to this and helped someone else out before as it seems to be a
frequent question.

I've replaced two VT-100 switches with chrome "bat" handle switches from
Home Depot in Canada shown here:
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.t...000104171.html

 The one at the USA Home Depot is here:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-20-Amp-Double-Pole-Toggle-Switch-1-Pack-GSW-14/100149490

I had to remove the screws and filed the terminals down a little because
the terminals were a little wider than the original connectors but it works
like a charm and will not break. It is almost a direct replacement (except
for the terminals needing some filing).

You can probably pick one up on the way home if you are in North America.

Hope this helps.
Santo

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 3:38 PM, John Wilson via cctalk <
cctalk@classiccmp.org> wrote:

> On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 09:04:11PM +0200, E. Groenenberg via cctalk wrote:
> >Does somebody maybe have a spare switch of a VT-100 (the one at the back)?
>
> If you get stuck, there's a switch that's made as a replacement part for
> Fender guitar amps which, apart from having a metal handle instead of
> plastic, is a very close match to the VT100 power switch.  Really it's
> what DEC *should* have used ...
>
> John Wilson
> D Bit
>

Re: Need VT-100 switch

[John Wilson via cctalk]

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 09:04:11PM +0200, E. Groenenberg via cctalk wrote:
>Does somebody maybe have a spare switch of a VT-100 (the one at the back)?

If you get stuck, there's a switch that's made as a replacement part for
Fender guitar amps which, apart from having a metal handle instead of
plastic, is a very close match to the VT100 power switch.  Really it's
what DEC *should* have used ...

John Wilson
D Bit

Need VT-100 switch

[E. Groenenberg via cctalk]

Hello.

Does somebody maybe have a spare switch of a VT-100 (the one at the back)?

Thanks,

Ed
--
Ik email, dus ik besta.
BTC : 1Lk6141nvDKPxtCa5erfFyovsoJN2LKqNJ

Re: C64 to VGA

[Dominique Carlier via cctalk]

I do not think so, not sure but it would be more a semi transparent mask 
over the native rendition.



On 29/08/2017 05:32, Eric Christopherson via cctalk wrote:

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017, Dominique Carlier via cctalk wrote:

I just mentioned the rasterlines/scanlines generated via software on modern
PC's in the context of game emulators with Mame. This is of course not
applicable in the situation of a C64 connected to a VGA 4/3 LCD, except if
you you are using an intermediate hardware like that:

http://arcadeforge.net/Scaler-and-Strike-Devices:::4.html

Hmm. So this would be something that makes physical blank lines in
between the logical lines being sent by the C64?


In fact it would be much simpler to find a simple small TV for this brave
C64 ;-)



On 29/08/2017 03:39, Eric Christopherson via cctalk wrote:

On Mon, Aug 28, 2017, Dominique Carlier via cctalk wrote:

The design of many games on C64 are made according to the rasterlines of
PAL/NTSC CRT, so I strongly do not advise using a flat screen 4/3 for a C64
or an Amiga because the rendering is disastrous unless you add a rasterlines
generator.

What do you mean by "a rasterlines generator"? I'm curious.