Re: [Chevelle-List] not really chevelle, but chevy drag power
Henri, I would try another barrel of fuel, anyway you will probably open the engine now because its the end of the season (unless you go to Gardermoen, Norway this weekend)it would be wise to measure the bores for roundess with a micrometer. André Next to restoring my chevelle, I'm also a mecanic in Team ProStreet Dragracing. We race a 1999 Chevy Monte Carlo ProMod, with 632 Donovan engine (built by Pat Musi). The last races we did we had a lot of problems with detonation and so burned a lot of pistons. (burned 8 pistons in 1st elimination round in the Eu ropean Finals at SantaPod, Engeland). We have two ideas how this could happen. 1. Change in fuel. We use C23 VP fuel, but changed to another barrel h alf this season, same time as the problems started. Can I test octane numb er? 2. Because the stroke is relatively big, the pistons comes out of the boring for 1/2 - 3/4 in most lowest position. The bores are not changed for the last two years. Could the bores be oval so the piston play is bigger a nd it takes oil up, which causes detonation? Any input is appriciated! Because this is not chevelle related maybe responses offlist. Thanks Henri '66 Malibu 230 The Netherlands --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] not really chevelle, but chevy drag power
We are going to open up the engine. We changed two pistons in in Santa Pod and five at the Nitrolympics Hockenheim (Germany) already. The problem with the fuel is that we don't just want to change to another barrel. If the problem is not the fuel, we risk blowing more pistons ($1000) and a set of springs ($800). I just hope the measurment of the bores will give more conclusions. Thanks! Henri -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 8:43 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] not really chevelle, but chevy drag power Henri, I would try another barrel of fuel, anyway you will probably open the engine now because its the end of the season (unless you go to Gardermoen, Norway this weekend)it would be wise to measure the bores for roundess with a micrometer. André Next to restoring my chevelle, I'm also a mecanic in Team ProStreet Dragracing. We race a 1999 Chevy Monte Carlo ProMod, with 632 Donovan engine (built by Pat Musi). The last races we did we had a lot of problems with detonation and so burned a lot of pistons. (burned 8 pistons in 1st elimination round in the Eu ropean Finals at SantaPod, Engeland). We have two ideas how this could happen. 1. Change in fuel. We use C23 VP fuel, but changed to another barrel h alf this season, same time as the problems started. Can I test octane numb er? 2. Because the stroke is relatively big, the pistons comes out of the boring for 1/2 - 3/4 in most lowest position. The bores are not changed for the last two years. Could the bores be oval so the piston play is bigger a nd it takes oil up, which causes detonation? Any input is appriciated! Because this is not chevelle related maybe responses offlist. Thanks Henri '66 Malibu 230 The Netherlands --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] not really chevelle, but chevy drag power
Henri, we were at nitro olympics as well (we have been there for the last three years). We raced a super comp dragster sponsored by Craftsman, SC 446. to bad we didnt meet (maybe next year). I would measure the bores, if they are round put in new rings and make a compression test. André We are going to open up the engine. We changed two pistons in in Santa Pod and five at the Nitrolympics Hockenheim (Germany) already. The problem with the fuel is that we don't just want to change to anot her barrel. If the problem is not the fuel, we risk blowing more pistons ( $1000) and a set of springs ($800). I just hope the measurment of the bores will give more conclusions. Thanks! Henri -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 8:43 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] not really chevelle, but chevy drag power Henri, I would try another barrel of fuel, anyway you will probably open the engine now because its the end of the season (unless you go to Gardermoen, Norway this weekend)it would be wise to measure the bores for roundess with a micrometer. André Next to restoring my chevelle, I'm also a mecanic in Team ProStreet Dragracing. We race a 1999 Chevy Monte Carlo ProMod, with 632 Donova n engine (built by Pat Musi). The last races we did we had a lot of problems with detonation and s o burned a lot of pistons. (burned 8 pistons in 1st elimination round in the Eu ropean Finals at SantaPod, Engeland). We have two ideas how this could happen. 1. Change in fuel. We use C23 VP fuel, but changed to another barrel h alf this season, same time as the problems started. Can I test octane nu mb er? 2. Because the stroke is relatively big, the pistons comes out of th e boring for 1/2 - 3/4 in most lowest position. The bores are not changed for the last two years. Could the bores be oval so the piston play is bigger a nd it takes oil up, which causes detonation? Any input is appriciated! Because this is not chevelle related maybe responses offlist. Thanks Henri '66 Malibu 230 The Netherlands --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] not really chevelle, but chevy drag power
We will definately be there next year. Our team has been going to Hockenheim for 6 years competing in SuperGas till 2000. In 2001 and this year we drove ProMod. In 2000 we where SuperGas champion. I saw that you went out in Round 1 by 4 hunderds under! Sorry, to see that. I keep you posted on the progress on the Monte Carlo. Henri -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 11:25 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] not really chevelle, but chevy drag power Henri, we were at nitro olympics as well (we have been there for the last three years). We raced a super comp dragster sponsored by Craftsman, SC 446. to bad we didnt meet (maybe next year). I would measure the bores, if they are round put in new rings and make a compression test. André We are going to open up the engine. We changed two pistons in in Santa Pod and five at the Nitrolympics Hockenheim (Germany) already. The problem with the fuel is that we don't just want to change to anot her barrel. If the problem is not the fuel, we risk blowing more pistons ( $1000) and a set of springs ($800). I just hope the measurment of the bores will give more conclusions. Thanks! Henri -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 8:43 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] not really chevelle, but chevy drag power Henri, I would try another barrel of fuel, anyway you will probably open the engine now because its the end of the season (unless you go to Gardermoen, Norway this weekend)it would be wise to measure the bores for roundess with a micrometer. André Next to restoring my chevelle, I'm also a mecanic in Team ProStreet Dragracing. We race a 1999 Chevy Monte Carlo ProMod, with 632 Donova n engine (built by Pat Musi). The last races we did we had a lot of problems with detonation and s o burned a lot of pistons. (burned 8 pistons in 1st elimination round in the Eu ropean Finals at SantaPod, Engeland). We have two ideas how this could happen. 1. Change in fuel. We use C23 VP fuel, but changed to another barrel h alf this season, same time as the problems started. Can I test octane nu mb er? 2. Because the stroke is relatively big, the pistons comes out of th e boring for 1/2 - 3/4 in most lowest position. The bores are not changed for the last two years. Could the bores be oval so the piston play is bigger a nd it takes oil up, which causes detonation? Any input is appriciated! Because this is not chevelle related maybe responses offlist. Thanks Henri '66 Malibu 230 The Netherlands --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] dif oil
It prob. will not help but, I would say use something thicker than 80w90 if you are trying to hide diff.noise. - Original Message - From: H. Kwakkel [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 4:19 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] dif oil My diff is making noise. I like to change it for a 12 bolt, but in the mean time I like to change oil to see if it helps. What oil should I use? Henri '66 Malibu 230 The Netherlands --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] not really chevelle, but chevy drag power
Henri, The modern drag car is so expensive that you need a computer control with all the sensors to monitor the air fuel ratios and temps, etc.? Are you using a computer system where you can download the engine parameters? These systems can help with trouble shooting and prevent expensive repairs. We will definately be there next year. Our team has been going to Hockenheim for 6 years competing in SuperGas till 2000. In 2001 and this year we drove ProMod. In 2000 we where SuperGas champion. I saw that you went out in Round 1 by 4 hunderds under! Sorry, to see that. I keep you posted on the progress on the Monte Carlo. Henri - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Body Lift
well I did my 70 LS6 by using 3 come-a-longs...one at each body mount at the fire wall and one in the center of the rear...there are large access holes that when you remove the access covers, I was able to catch the frame on each side and used a chair from one side to the other (thru the access holes ) and used the come-a-long in the center of the chain... The come-a-longs were hung from the ceiling thru a hole up thru a 6' long piece of 4x4 that was laid across my 2x8 ceiling rafters. I jacked each come-a-long a little at a time and I only lifted about a foot. I then pulled the frame out from under the body ( I had already removed all weels and suspension ) You could probably leave all suspension parts in place and just roll it out of the way. I then lowered the body on 8 cement blocks that were 3 high...one at each front body mount and at the rear used another 4x4 from one side to another on top of cement blocks. I would probably suggest solid cement blocks or good heavy duty floor jacks. I DO NOT WORK UNDER THE CAR AS IS'T NOT THAT SAFE ON CEMENT BLOCKS. I just bought a body rotisoiry? to mount the body safely to. Don't forget to disconnect the emergency brake cable...ask me why Just another way to do the body lift...hope this gives you an idea. Bill Cross 70 LS6 in a zillon pieces in Ct - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Parting out a '67 El Camino
A friend of mine is parting out a '67 El Camino. I already bought the hood, complete Power Steering unit (pump, box, brackets, etc...) and the drive shaft. Please email me off list and I'll send you the parts list and prices (MSExcel File). Donnie - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] dif oil
In my experience, nothing helps but new gears bearings... -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of H. Kwakkel Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 1:20 AM To: Chevelle List Subject: [Chevelle-List] dif oil My diff is making noise. I like to change it for a 12 bolt, but in the mean time I like to change oil to see if it helps. What oil should I use? Henri '66 Malibu 230 The Netherlands --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] not really chevelle, but chevy drag power
Henri, yep, we went out by 4/100, that meant barbecue and beer for the rest of the weekend. Its the third year for us now. André We will definately be there next year. Our team has been going to Hock enheim for 6 years competing in SuperGas till 2000. In 2001 and this year we drove ProMod. In 2000 we where SuperGas champion. I saw that you went out in Round 1 by 4 hunderds under! Sorry, to see that. I keep you posted on the progress on the Monte Carlo. Henri -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 11:25 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] not really chevelle, but chevy drag power Henri, we were at nitro olympics as well (we have been there for the last three years). We raced a super comp dragster sponsored by Craftsman, SC 446. to bad we didnt meet (maybe next year). I would measure the bores, if they are round put in new rings and make a compression test. André We are going to open up the engine. We changed two pistons in in San ta Pod and five at the Nitrolympics Hockenheim (Germany) already. The problem with the fuel is that we don't just want to change to an ot her barrel. If the problem is not the fuel, we risk blowing more pistons ( $1000) and a set of springs ($800). I just hope the measurment of the bores will give more conclusions. Thanks! Henri -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 8:43 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle- List] not really chevelle, but chevy drag power Henri, I would try another barrel of fuel, anyway you will probably open th e engine now because its the end of the season (unless you go to Gardermoen, Norway this weekend) it would be wise to measure the bores for roundess with a micrometer. André Next to restoring my chevelle, I'm also a mecanic in Team ProStree t Dragracing. We race a 1999 Chevy Monte Carlo ProMod, with 632 Dono va n engine (built by Pat Musi). The last races we did we had a lot of problems with detonation and s o burned a lot of pistons. (burned 8 pistons in 1st elimination round in th e Eu ropean Finals at SantaPod, Engeland). We have two ideas how this could happen. 1. Change in fuel. We use C23 VP fuel, but changed to another barr el h alf this season, same time as the problems started. Can I test octane nu mb er? 2. Because the stroke is relatively big, the pistons comes out of th e boring for 1/2 - 3/4 in most lowest position. The bores are not changed for the last two years. Could the bores be oval so the piston play is bigg er a nd it takes oil up, which causes detonation? Any input is appriciated! Because this is not chevelle related maybe responses offlist. Thanks Henri '66 Malibu 230 The Netherlands --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Outside Door Mirror Adhesive/Glue??
The mirror on my drivers door exterior rear view mirror fell out at a show over the weekend but it didnt break!! What would be a good glue or adhesive to put it back on? Looks like there are 3 attachment points with some sort of black rubbery like glue that was used previously. Thanks Donnie - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Outside Door Mirror Adhesive/Glue??
I'd use ordinary silicome adhesive. Seal out water too boot. Continuous bead around the perimeter? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 10:50 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Outside Door Mirror Adhesive/Glue?? The mirror on my drivers door exterior rear view mirror fell out at a show over the weekend but it didnt break!! What would be a good glue or adhesive to put it back on? Looks like there are 3 attachment points with some sort of black rubbery like glue that was used previously. Thanks Donnie - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] not really chevelle, but chevy drag power
Are you spraying this motor with nitrous? 632 need a lower timing than say a 500. pictures of pistons. Take barrel back, ask vendor to test. At an Nhra meet they can test for you, But I think you are a little to far away. Sounds like a cool operation. I help a friend with his promod he runs a 63 vette w/ a Troy Buff 432 blown alky motor. 6.20@225 I didn't understand stroke question #2. Skip -Original Message- From: H. Kwakkel [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 1:07 AM To: Chevelle List Subject: [Chevelle-List] not really chevelle, but chevy drag power Next to restoring my chevelle, I'm also a mecanic in Team ProStreet Dragracing. We race a 1999 Chevy Monte Carlo ProMod, with 632 Donovan engine (built by Pat Musi). The last races we did we had a lot of problems with detonation and so burned a lot of pistons. (burned 8 pistons in 1st elimination round in the European Finals at SantaPod, Engeland). We have two ideas how this could happen. 1. Change in fuel. We use C23 VP fuel, but changed to another barrel half this season, same time as the problems started. Can I test octane number? 2. Because the stroke is relatively big, the pistons comes out of the boring for 1/2 - 3/4 in most lowest position. The bores are not changed for the last two years. Could the bores be oval so the piston play is bigger and it takes oil up, which causes detonation? Any input is appriciated! Because this is not chevelle related maybe responses offlist. Thanks Henri '66 Malibu 230 The Netherlands --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] dif oil
If it is shot... use the cheapest 80/90 weight you can find cause who cares if it is shot. You can also try the old tale of shoving sawdust in there to quiet it down if it is that bad (although I have never tried this) or there are other addiatives out there for singing gears and what not. Mikey My diff is making noise. I like to change it for a 12 bolt, but in the meantime I like to change oil to see if it helps. What oil should I use?Henri'66 Malibu 230The Netherlands
RE: [Chevelle-List] Outside Door Mirror Adhesive/Glue??
I've never heard of glue under a mirror. There is usually a black rubber gasket though. John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Craig A. Ellis Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 11:04 AM To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Outside Door Mirror Adhesive/Glue?? I'd use ordinary silicome adhesive. Seal out water too boot. Continuous bead around the perimeter? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 10:50 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Outside Door Mirror Adhesive/Glue?? The mirror on my drivers door exterior rear view mirror fell out at a show over the weekend but it didnt break!! What would be a good glue or adhesive to put it back on? Looks like there are 3 attachment points with some sort of black rubbery like glue that was used previously. Thanks Donnie - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] speedometer cable
I've been told that there is a plastic gear in the transmission, at least on manual, that sometimes goes bad. My speedometer doesn't work and I think this is the problem. Craig 69SS - Original Message - From: Jim Weimer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 2:44 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] speedometer cable Usually when a speedo cable starts to go bad you will get alot of needle wave. The needle will flucuate as much as 15mph. But yes they will squeal also...probably needs lubed ( use graphite powder) You can get it at about anywhere...its the same stuff that people use to lube door locks with. Later, Jim - Original Message - From: Paul O'Brien [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: centralcoastsuperfords [EMAIL PROTECTED]; chevelle-list [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; classicmercurycars [EMAIL PROTECTED]; fordmercurydriversclub Moderator [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 2:17 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] speedometer cable Guys, If your speedometer cable is going, does it squeak, or just break? I've never replaced one, but something is squeaking when I'm rollin, rollin, rollin. Is there any way to check or repair the one on here before it goes bad? Paul O'Brien 84 El Camino SS NECOA #125 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] driveline center
My driveshaft is offset a bit left of center when viewed from the back of the car. A driveline buddy of mine says this is deliberate in order to make sure the driveshaft never arrives at zero degrees of offset through the suspension travel. Could you guys please tell me if the driveshafts in YOUR cars are offset at all? By offset I mean laterally. So if you were looking at a "plan view" of the chassis (that is, a bird's eye view), the driveshaft would be slightly left of center at the transmission tail shaft so a slight angle would be present between the trans and the differential. Or maybe the differential would be slightly offset. BTW, this would NOT generally be evident in assembly manual drawings, etc. You'd sure enough see it if the car was on a hoist and viewed from the rear, however. This is important to me in my quest to debug my driveshaft. Also, not all platforms has this offset - only those the engineers determined could arrive at zero at some point in the travel of the suspension. We're only talking about a 1/2 inch or an inch, by the way. Nothing dramatic but you can see it readily. Craig E.
Re: [Chevelle-List] speedometer cable
There is a plastic gear in a manual trans. They are color coded as well as differ in the number of teeth as they correspond to the rearend gear ratio to provide accurate speed readings. They wear out in these old cars we have causing the speedometer to stop working. Sometimes it's a trial error approach to find out why the speedo quit, the cable, the gear, the unit, etc. Maybe some of you real mechanical wizards, and I say that with the utmost of admiration, can provide more technical info and pinpoint causes for current future references and saving alot of time and trouble for us less knowledgeable types. Thanks. PHIL G. 65 SS In a message dated Wed, 11 Sep 2002 2:09:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I've been told that there is a plastic gear in the transmission, at least on manual, that sometimes goes bad. My speedometer doesn't work and I think this is the problem. Craig 69SS - Original Message - From: Jim Weimer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 2:44 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] speedometer cable Usually when a speedo cable starts to go bad you will get alot of needle wave. The needle will flucuate as much as 15mph. But yes they will squeal also...probably needs lubed ( use graphite powder) You can get it at about anywhere...its the same stuff that people use to lube door locks with. Later, Jim - Original Message - From: Paul O'Brien [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: centralcoastsuperfords [EMAIL PROTECTED]; chevelle-list [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; classicmercurycars [EMAIL PROTECTED]; fordmercurydriversclub Moderator [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 2:17 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] speedometer cable Guys, If your speedometer cable is going, does it squeak, or just break? I've never replaced one, but something is squeaking when I'm rollin, rollin, rollin. Is there any way to check or repair the one on here before it goes bad? Paul O'Brien 84 El Camino SS NECOA #125 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] crate motor question
I am looking at getting a 383 stroker crate motor for my 66 El Camino. I saw these guys in the latest Hot Rod and asked them about this motor: http://www.coasthigh.com/Crate_Motors/c383_sf.htm Here was their first reply to my query: We offer a balanced assembly for you for apprpx. 999.00-1100.00 dollars, and depends on the cylinder heads you are going to use. They are based on a 4.030 overbore, but we also have others available. With decent heads and cam should be able to make 450 horsepower or more while still running on pump gas!!! If you have any other questions just call. That sounds way too cheap to me, especially since it's supposed to be a new block. Has anyone here ever heard of Coast High Performance, or their parent Probe Racing Components? Mitch - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] driveline center
Like they say, you learn something new every day. But from a birds eye view, looking down the Centerline of the transmission to the yoke then to the rear end yoke. and from my limited knowledge a 10 and 12 bolt rear rear end pinion/yoke is centered in the housing,( I just confirmed that on a 64 ten bolt and a 66 12 bolt housing) I can't understand the laterial deviaion in you car. The notion of zero degreepinion angle in relationship to the, drive shaft and transmission, Isa well documented. But the concentric deviaion of drive train,drive shaft and rear end is a new one to me. Wayne Ps will put my 64 ans 65 on the lift to nite ! - Original Message - From: Craig A. Ellis To: Chevelle (E-mail) Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 3:34 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] driveline center My driveshaft is offset a bit left of center when viewed from the back of the car. A driveline buddy of mine says this is deliberate in order to make sure the driveshaft never arrives at zero degrees of offset through the suspension travel. Could you guys please tell me if the driveshafts in YOUR cars are offset at all? By offset I mean laterally. So if you were looking at a "plan view" of the chassis (that is, a bird's eye view), the driveshaft would be slightly left of center at the transmission tail shaft so a slight angle would be present between the trans and the differential. Or maybe the differential would be slightly offset. BTW, this would NOT generally be evident in assembly manual drawings, etc. You'd sure enough see it if the car was on a hoist and viewed from the rear, however. This is important to me in my quest to debug my driveshaft. Also, not all platforms has this offset - only those the engineers determined could arrive at zero at some point in the travel of the suspension. We're only talking about a 1/2 inch or an inch, by the way. Nothing dramatic but you can see it readily. Craig E.
Re: [Chevelle-List] crate motor question
At 01:07 PM 09/11/2002 -0700, you wrote: I am looking at getting a 383 stroker crate motor for my 66 El Camino. I saw these guys in the latest Hot Rod and asked them about this motor: http://www.coasthigh.com/Crate_Motors/c383_sf.htm Here was their first reply to my query: We offer a balanced assembly for you for apprpx. 999.00-1100.00 dollars, and depends on the cylinder heads you are going to use. They are based on a 4.030 overbore, but we also have others available. With decent heads and cam should be able to make 450 horsepower or more while still running on pump gas!!! If you have any other questions just call. That sounds way too cheap to me, especially since it's supposed to be a new block. Has anyone here ever heard of Coast High Performance, or their parent Probe Racing Components? Mitch Go here buy a NEW one from GM: http://goautocenter.com/383_small_blk.htm Or here: http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=catalog_startcatid=120 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] The Doberman gang in Dallas (Taxes) Dave's Doberman page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1877/ Doberworld home page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1878/ El-Camino/Chevelle page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1876/ My Machine Shop http://cncshop.8m.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] tail light sockets
Howdy, I'm trying to find replacement tail light sockets for my 65 Malibu. The old ones are a little loose, and from time to time one brake light doesn't work. I don't really want to spend the $100.00 I've seen the complete harness listed for. I looked at Advanced Auto Parts, and found a close, but not perfect, match. Any ideas anyone? Thanks. Dan McIntosh65 Malibu
Re: [Chevelle-List] crate motor question
At 03:21 PM 9/11/2002 -0500, Dave Corgill wrote: Go here buy a NEW one from GM: http://goautocenter.com/383_small_blk.htm Thanks. I am already aware of the GM motors (I have a ZZ4). This motor is also supposed to be new. Does the price make sense? Mitch - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] driveline center
Wayne, I should have noted it's a 1970 SS. The word I got was from a driveshaft manufacturer client of ours (American Axle). They build a zillion driveshafts for GM (pickups, SUVs, etc.). He told me not all vehicles require it - it might even be exclusive to some applications within a specific platform (an "A-Body" is a "platform" in the industry). I never noticed it on mine until I looked and, lo' and behold, there it was. On the other hand, I also have it on pretty good authority that ANY lateral deviation is bad. Not only am I confused, now I'm worried about how I GOT the deviation! It must be a virus or something... Moreover, when I look over the whole assembly, I can't see how a deviation could even be introduced. The axle is fixed in position by the controls arms, my chassis is straight and square, the engine trans appear to be installed perfectly. I am truly mystified. I really need some eyeball input on this. C -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Wayne KlineSent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 4:13 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] driveline center Like they say, you learn something new every day. But from a birds eye view, looking down the Centerline of the transmission to the yoke then to the rear end yoke. and from my limited knowledge a 10 and 12 bolt rear rear end pinion/yoke is centered in the housing,( I just confirmed that on a 64 ten bolt and a 66 12 bolt housing) I can't understand the laterial deviaion in you car. The notion of zero degreepinion angle in relationship to the, drive shaft and transmission, Isa well documented. But the concentric deviaion of drive train,drive shaft and rear end is a new one to me. Wayne Ps will put my 64 ans 65 on the lift to nite ! - Original Message - From: Craig A. Ellis To: Chevelle (E-mail) Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 3:34 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] driveline center My driveshaft is offset a bit left of center when viewed from the back of the car. A driveline buddy of mine says this is deliberate in order to make sure the driveshaft never arrives at zero degrees of offset through the suspension travel. Could you guys please tell me if the driveshafts in YOUR cars are offset at all? By offset I mean laterally. So if you were looking at a "plan view" of the chassis (that is, a bird's eye view), the driveshaft would be slightly left of center at the transmission tail shaft so a slight angle would be present between the trans and the differential. Or maybe the differential would be slightly offset. BTW, this would NOT generally be evident in assembly manual drawings, etc. You'd sure enough see it if the car was on a hoist and viewed from the rear, however. This is important to me in my quest to debug my driveshaft. Also, not all platforms has this offset - only those the engineers determined could arrive at zero at some point in the travel of the suspension. We're only talking about a 1/2 inch or an inch, by the way. Nothing dramatic but you can see it readily. Craig E.
RE: [Chevelle-List] crate motor question
Shoot, why not go down the the Chevy dealer and order one over the counter? I've heard they are a super deal and come with a GM warranty for a year. Amazing. Or what about that Edelbrock one in the Summit catalog? 420 HP, they say, and a reputable company. At least, they sure appear to be. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Dave Corgill Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 4:21 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] crate motor question At 01:07 PM 09/11/2002 -0700, you wrote: I am looking at getting a 383 stroker crate motor for my 66 El Camino. I saw these guys in the latest Hot Rod and asked them about this motor: http://www.coasthigh.com/Crate_Motors/c383_sf.htm Here was their first reply to my query: We offer a balanced assembly for you for apprpx. 999.00-1100.00 dollars, and depends on the cylinder heads you are going to use. They are based on a 4.030 overbore, but we also have others available. With decent heads and cam should be able to make 450 horsepower or more while still running on pump gas!!! If you have any other questions just call. That sounds way too cheap to me, especially since it's supposed to be a new block. Has anyone here ever heard of Coast High Performance, or their parent Probe Racing Components? Mitch Go here buy a NEW one from GM: http://goautocenter.com/383_small_blk.htm Or here: http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=catalog_startcatid=120 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] The Doberman gang in Dallas (Taxes) Dave's Doberman page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1877/ Doberworld home page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1878/ El-Camino/Chevelle page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1876/ My Machine Shop http://cncshop.8m.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] crate motor question
At 04:55 PM 9/11/2002 -0400, Craig A. Ellis wrote: Shoot, why not go down the the Chevy dealer and order one over the counter? I've heard they are a super deal and come with a GM warranty for a year. I have already done that before. Cheapest GM long block is around $3,000. I am wondering if the low price of the Coast High Performance can be be justified. Mitch - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] driveline center
In a message dated 9/11/2002 4:51:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: now I'm worried about how I GOT the deviation! Has the car ever been in an accident? If it at one time was T-boned by the rear half of the frame, that would bend the frame and cause the lateral deviation. I looked at all 4 of my Chevelles and all of them are straight back. Tom
RE: [Chevelle-List] crate motor question
mitch This all boils down to what is in a name. Look at the parts break downs for the different shops. They all seem to use good quality parts. So do you want to spend 3 grand for the name Edelbrock or 1100 for an engine with an Edelbrock intake on it. If the cheaper guys will give a warranty of any kind I say buy it and put the other 2 grand into something else for the car. Jason - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] speedometer cable
Could even be beauty rings or u joints. Do you here it from cluster? KrusherKrell 1968 SS 396 - Original Message - From: Paul O'Brien [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: centralcoastsuperfords [EMAIL PROTECTED]; chevelle-list [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; classicmercurycars [EMAIL PROTECTED]; fordmercurydriversclub Moderator [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 5:17 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] speedometer cable Guys, If your speedometer cable is going, does it squeak, or just break? I've never replaced one, but something is squeaking when I'm rollin, rollin, rollin. Is there any way to check or repair the one on here before it goes bad? Paul O'Brien 84 El Camino SS NECOA #125 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] speedometer cable
I use a cordless drill to run speedo and there by checking cluster. A pocket screw driver in at trans.where speedo cable goes should not turn if wheels are not. KrusherKrell 1968 SS 396 - Original Message - From: crobertson1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 6:09 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] speedometer cable I've been told that there is a plastic gear in the transmission, at least on manual, that sometimes goes bad. My speedometer doesn't work and I think this is the problem. Craig 69SS - Original Message - From: Jim Weimer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 2:44 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] speedometer cable Usually when a speedo cable starts to go bad you will get alot of needle wave. The needle will flucuate as much as 15mph. But yes they will squeal also...probably needs lubed ( use graphite powder) You can get it at about anywhere...its the same stuff that people use to lube door locks with. Later, Jim - Original Message - From: Paul O'Brien [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: centralcoastsuperfords [EMAIL PROTECTED]; chevelle-list [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; classicmercurycars [EMAIL PROTECTED]; fordmercurydriversclub Moderator [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 2:17 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] speedometer cable Guys, If your speedometer cable is going, does it squeak, or just break? I've never replaced one, but something is squeaking when I'm rollin, rollin, rollin. Is there any way to check or repair the one on here before it goes bad? Paul O'Brien 84 El Camino SS NECOA #125 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] speedometer cable
Ditto on the beauty rings. That was happening on my 68 Olds and when I removed the SSIVs and put steel wheels w/ covers on it, the squeaking went away. I still have a speedometer cable that I never installed sitting in a box. John Nasta -Original Message- Could even be beauty rings or u joints. Do you here it from cluster? KrusherKrell 1968 SS 396 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] driveline center
Are you seeing this with the wheels hanging? Could just be normal control arm bushing wear.I had it until new poly bushings. ps.love them and can feel them KrusherKrell1968 SS 396 - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 9:02 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] driveline center In a message dated 9/11/2002 4:51:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: now I'm worried about how I GOT the deviation!Has the car ever been in an accident? If it at one time was T-boned by the rear half of the frame, that would bend the frame and cause the lateral deviation. I looked at all 4 of my Chevelles and all of them are straight back.Tom
Re: [Chevelle-List] crate motor question
In a message dated 09/11/2002 4:11:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: We offer a balanced assembly for you for apprpx. 999.00-1100.00 dollars, and depends on the cylinder heads you are going to use. They are based on a 4.030 overbore, but we also have others available. With decent heads and cam should be able to make 450 horsepower or more while still running on pump gas!!! If you have any other questions just call. That sounds way too cheap to me, especially since it's supposed to be a new block. Has anyone here ever heard of Coast High Performance, or their parent Probe Racing Components? Hey Mitcho, Sorry, can't say that I've heard of them, maybe another lister can help out there. For that price though, its gotta be a short block. For comparison, check out SpeedOMotive (www.speedomotive.com), they are supposed to be the stroker kings out on the left coast. I bought my 383 crate from Joe at All Chevy (www.allchevyengines.com). He builds a good engine. Maybe someone else has dealt with Coast, but reading their web site, it sounds like they are more into the F*ord stuff. Good Luck. Here is the link to the specs on my stroker http://www.allchevyengines.com/383-400.htm - Kurt Ehrhardt ACES #1280 66 Malibu 66 SuperSport Enfield, CT - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] crate motor question
From: Mitch Barrie Subject: [Chevelle-List] crate motor question I am looking at getting a 383 stroker crate motor for my 66 El Camino. I saw these guys in the latest Hot Rod and asked them about this motor: http://www.coasthigh.com/Crate_Motors/c383_sf.htm Here was their first reply to my query: We offer a balanced assembly for you for apprpx. 999.00-1100.00 dollars, and depends on the cylinder heads you are going to use. They are based on a 4.030 overbore, but we also have others available. With decent heads and cam should be able to make 450 horsepower or more while still running on pump gas!!! If you have any other questions just call. That sounds way too cheap to me, especially since it's supposed to be a new block. Has anyone here ever heard of Coast High Performance, or their parent Probe Racing Components? Mitch, Where are you now? If you want, I can stop by the shop for a tour on your behalf as it is only a few miles from me. The name Coast High Performance seems familiar, but probably because I've driven past them or seen them around locally. I would also verify that you were quoted the price for the long block and not the short block. That price is impossible for the long block they specify on that page. No way do you get a short block plus Performer RPM heads and intake, distributor, roller rockers, etc. If that is their price, you can buy them in bulk and sell the parts for twice the price if not more! I paid about $1100 years ago for a short block from my local speed shop, and quite a bit more than that for a complete engine with forged everything just this month... Also, be aware that Chevrolet is planning a big sale on performance parts, including motors starting October 1st, so you should wait until then before making any decision. A post from the VetteNet list: There was a previous thread about the up and coming GMPP parts sale. I got the low down from my GM buddies, and yes there will be a large sale that will start this coming October 1. However they were tight lipped about what was going to be on sale but I was promised to get a price list just before it starts! So just to let everyone know, it is coming soon and there will be substantial savings to be had on a lot of hard parts including engines. That's all he would tell me. Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) '66 Corvette | 352/??? | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFGs '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | '79 F-Body Brakes - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] crate motor question
Mitch, My experience is "you get what you pay for". I work for Jasper Engines and we're the forth largest customer of Fed. Mogul only behind the BIG 3 and we can't come close to those dollars. I've looked at alot of crates and I agree, that has to be a short block. If you're interested, you may want to look at Jasperengines.com and look at ours. No sales pitchjust my .02. Good Luck. Remember-the bitterness of poor quality last long after sweetness of a good deal. Mark
Re: [Chevelle-List] crate motor question
six words to the wise. "you pay for what you get" end of story Larry (Z)
Re: [Chevelle-List] crate motor question
Speed cost money... How fast do you want to go? Be well!...art - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 8:46 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] crate motor question six words to the wise. "you pay for what you get" end of story Larry (Z)
RE: [Chevelle-List] welders?
I have a 110 volt Century. I hate it. It does not weld very good at all. My brother has a 110 volt Lincoln and it works pretty good. My 2 cents. Mark -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Dave Corgill Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2002 7:43 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] welders? At 10:41 PM 09/03/2002 -0400, you wrote: Wow there sure are allot of choices out there. Allot of different prices as well. Can anyone explain the advantages of going with a 220 unit as opposed to 110. I see allot of very low priced units as well in the $150 to $300 hundred range. Are these even worth a look? Thanks, JD Don't go with the cheaper ones, I bought a 110V 90 amp HF one new for $190 and I bought it to see if I would really have a use for a Mig welder (I already had stick gas). All it did was show me how handy a mig would be, it was a PIA to weld anywhere good with it (I still have it packed away). So I bought the Miller XP135 110V it works so good I handed it to my Wife told her to weld this She put down a perfect bead with flux core wire (The XP has a built it gas solenoid but never have needed to try it. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] dif oil
grandfather found hamburger in rear ends to quiet them down, what an awful smell when workin on one.Sawdust works best in transmissions. lol - Original Message - From: Capt Crunch To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 11:08 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] dif oil If it is shot... use the cheapest 80/90 weight you can find cause who cares if it is shot. You can also try the old tale of shoving sawdust in there to quiet it down if it is that bad (although I have never tried this) or there are other addiatives out there for singing gears and what not. Mikey My diff is making noise. I like to change it for a 12 bolt, but in the meantime I like to change oil to see if it helps. What oil should I use?Henri'66 Malibu 230The Netherlands
Re: [Chevelle-List] Outside Door Mirror Adhesive/Glue??
silly cone . lol. regular silicone adhesive will be fine , unless you are anal retentive . - Original Message - From: John Nasta [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 11:55 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Outside Door Mirror Adhesive/Glue?? I've never heard of glue under a mirror. There is usually a black rubber gasket though. John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Craig A. Ellis Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 11:04 AM To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Outside Door Mirror Adhesive/Glue?? I'd use ordinary silicome adhesive. Seal out water too boot. Continuous bead around the perimeter? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 10:50 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Outside Door Mirror Adhesive/Glue?? The mirror on my drivers door exterior rear view mirror fell out at a show over the weekend but it didnt break!! What would be a good glue or adhesive to put it back on? Looks like there are 3 attachment points with some sort of black rubbery like glue that was used previously. Thanks Donnie - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Transmission Conversion
turned my 69 elcy back to orig . previous owner had a 4 speed in it and i put a t 400 into it ,so answer to first question , yes get a diff drive line. get a new steering column , unless you want the column lever in the way . we had to change out the pedals and such for the change be prepared for that. previous owner went through floor board for the 4 speed change ,( flinstone feet work well in this matter) - Original Message - From: Carl Farnand [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 2:19 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Transmission Conversion Hi Folks. I have a 69 SS 396 that is currently an automatic with a T400. I am planning to convert it to a 4-speed and am in the fact finding and parts finding process. I have a couple of key questions. * First, will the drive shaft that is in the car be the right length for the 4 speed (Muncie). * Secondly, do I have to change the steering column because of the reverse lock out requirements. * Finally, as I have never done this before, is there such a thing as a conversion guide listing all the parts requirements (example: clutch linkage assembly) and the how to? Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. Carl Farnand Email [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] crate motor question
Speed-o-motive is very hit or miss, like a lot of race engine shops. I have heard of quite a few complaints and problems with ASSEMBLED motors. I do know one guy with a BBC that was partially done by speed-o and he is happy. I would check out Beck Racing engines, Fast Times Motorsports, Sonny's Engines, or ASR. They aren't necessarily the cheapest, but they are among the best IMO. Mikey - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 6:33 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] crate motor question In a message dated 09/11/2002 4:11:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: "We offer a balanced assembly for you for apprpx. 999.00-1100.00 dollars, and depends on the cylinder heads you are going to use. They are based on a 4.030 overbore, but we also have others available. With decent heads and cam should be able to make 450 horsepower or more while still running on pump gas!!! If you have any other questions just call." That sounds way too cheap to me, especially since it's supposed to be a new block. Has anyone here ever heard of Coast High Performance, or their parent Probe Racing Components?Hey Mitcho, Sorry, can't say that I've heard of them, maybe another lister can help out there. For that price though, its gotta be a short block. For comparison, check out SpeedOMotive (www.speedomotive.com), they are supposed to be the stroker kings out on the left coast. I bought my 383 crate from Joe at All Chevy (www.allchevyengines.com). He builds a good engine. Maybe someone else has dealt with Coast, but reading their web site, it sounds like they are more into the F*ord stuff. Good Luck. Here is the link to the specs on my strokerhttp://www.allchevyengines.com/383-400.htm-Kurt EhrhardtACES #128066 Malibu66 SuperSportEnfield, CT-To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.htmlTo start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
