Re: [Chevelle-list] auto shippers
If you want a list of lots of potential carriers go to www.movecars.com. I've also heard that Intercity does a really good job, but they will only go to certain cities or certain routes. Middle of the country should be no problem, Seattle was at this time. -- Original message -- > Horseless Carriage moving was mentioned back in Nov. > 2003 on the list > http://www.chevelles.net/pipermail/chevelle-list_chevelles.net/2003-November/003 > 386.html > > Also, there are two listed on the Chevelles.net > shippers links pages. Never used them before so, no > endorsement here. > > http://links.chevelles.net/links/Information/Shipping/ > > > - James > > --- Dan McIntosh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>wrote: > > > Howdy all. > > > > I just purchased a car from Missouri (I;m in Ohio) > > > > I remember a few months back someone posted up a > > really good experience with an auto transporter that > > they used. > > > > Anyone remember the name of that company? > > > > Thank you. > > > > Dan McIntosh > > Pavement Scraping 1964 Impala SS > > Rollerz Only C.C. > > http://www.lowriderimpala.com > > > > > > > ___ > Do you Yahoo!? > Win 1 of 4,000 free domain names from Yahoo! Enter now. > http://promotions.yahoo.com/goldrush >
Re: [Chevelle-list] gauge problem
Mike, Had a similar problem that turned out to be a bad contact on the mylar and a poorly grounded screw holding the mylar on. It is a pain but you should probably recheck all connection points on the mylar. My 2 cents, Gene -- Original message -- > I have had a 71 SS for a few years. The amp guage did not work but the temp > and fuel gauges did. While doing some interior resto I had a new circuit > board installed in the dash and the amp gauge now worked, but the temp and > fuel gauges would only come on sometimes. Now the two do not come on at all. > Any thoughts on where to start to locate the problem? > > Mike Cowan > Jack Porter Insurance, Inc. > 909-884-3208 x11 > >
RE: [Chevelle-list] Front Suspension HELP
My experience has been that the only physical difference is that some come with oval bushings and some with round bushings on the lowers. Not sure exactly why, could have been big vs. small block. I've interchanged parts for those years without problems. My 2 cents. Gene > Part number-wise, according to my GM parts book: > Group 6.168 ARM ASSY-STRUT, Steering Knuckle Upper and Lower Control Arm > Assy. > 64-72 3974217 L.H. upper > 3887062 R.H. upper > > 64-70 > 71-72 wagon > 71-72 (400 w/4bc,454) 3990509 L.H. lower > 3990510 R.H. lower > > 70-71 (exc. 396,400 w/4bc,454) 3967769 L.H. lower > 3967770 R.H. lower > > 72 (exc. 396,400 w/4bc,454) 6263617 L.H. lower > 6263618 R.H. lower > > Apparently, for some reason the 70-71 and 72 lower arms are different for a > small block car. (?) > > Dale McIntosh > TC Gold #92/ACES #1709/NECOA #41 > GR8PMKN FOR SALE > DalesPlace My 67 SS and 67 El Camino > ChevelleStuff Decoding info on 64-72 Chevelles > MidwestChevelles Midwest Chevelle Show Information > > > >
RE: [Chevelle-list] Wiring Harness
Well, maybe. I don't think it is cheaper if they have to spend 30 to 60 minutes on the phone working through questions and tracing wires while you are both on the phone, which they have done with me 3 times. I also know that they are real picky about producing only factory exact harnesses. Even if you know that you wont need a certain wire/s they wont build custom harnesses. I don't know, maybe for what you pay you should get a drawing, but I sure did like talking to them direct, I got a lot of side questions answered about wiring and wiring configurations. They sure know their stufff. My 2 cents. Gene > Sorry, I still can't buy it and sounds like a copout. Even if they don't > know what combination it's going into the fact that they include all (I > assume) necessary wires to accommodate variations, their should be > instructions. If a wire isn't needed, say a tach wire or some relay wire, > it should state "...the brown wire is attached to the...and if not needed, > should be trimmed or taped." My point is they included the wire(s) for some > reason and they should explain what it's for...whether it's used in a > particular car is immaterial. Bottom line, it's cheaper to not have to > include written and/or photographic instructions. > > Dale McIntosh > > > > > I asked one time and they said their were too many variations > > and too many pages for each harness. They have them layered > > in a CAD system that didn't lend itself to one picture drawings. > >
RE: [Chevelle-list] Wiring Harness
I have been told, right or wrong that there were never any printed GM wiring diagrams for the SS dash option. Not sure why, but there just aren't any. Seems to be true, because I looked all over and never found one. I just cut the ring off and mounted a blade type connector in its place. I think that I took the old one apart (off the old harness) and reattached it to the new wire. Gene --- Begin Message --- I called them up and asked. It is for the Tach (very close Bob). Now I am wondering why none of my books (three different manuals) or the wiring guide (just a bunch of copies out of the manuals) don’t show any of the wiring for gauges. The books seem to assume you don’t have gauges… that has me a little worried about putting in my dash harness. I can do most things by memory but that’s a hell of a lot of wires. Now I just have to figure out if I can get an adapter to go from the blade oil switch to the little circular prong the cable wants to hook up to. Thanks for your input!! - JB From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 9:50 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Wiring Harness Check your voltage regulator to see if a wire is missing. There should be a brown wire on one of the terminals for the gen warning light in the dash. Bob - Original Message - From: Crazy Rusty To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 10:03 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Wiring Harness I received an M&H Engine harness, got it installed, and ran into one problem. There is a brown wire, that comes out the same place as the wiper motor and coil wires, which I don’t know what to do with. It doesn’t show it in any of my manuals or my wiring guide. So, on the slight chance someone has installed one of these harnesses in a 69, do you know what the wire might be for? Here are a couple a shaky pictures (both are fairly fuzzy and definitely huge): http://www.crazyrusty.com/chevelle/projects/electrical/full/brownwire.jpg http://www.crazyrusty.com/chevelle/projects/electrical/full/bolt.jpg JB 69 Chevelle Malibu 1969 Chevelle Electrical Project http://www.crazyrusty.com/chevelle/projects/projects.htm --- End Message ---
RE: [Chevelle-list] Wiring Harness
I asked one time and they said their were too many variations and too many pages for each harness. They have them layered in a CAD system that didn't lend itself to one picture drawings. Have any of you checked out this guys products (Ebay #7903793411). He says he has them for SS's but when I asked a few months ago he didn't have one with the gauge package harness. He is on the right track with the color pictures. Gene > Not knocking the mfg, but with all the accolades M&H seem to get, don't they > provide a diagram? > > Dale McIntosh > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Wiring Harness
Safest thing is to call M & H, they will know exactly what it is for. I had a number of wires that I didn't need when I replaced my harness, but most were for emission control relays that I didn't need anymore. Gene --- Begin Message --- I received an M&H Engine harness, got it installed, and ran into one problem. There is a brown wire, that comes out the same place as the wiper motor and coil wires, which I don’t know what to do with. It doesn’t show it in any of my manuals or my wiring guide. So, on the slight chance someone has installed one of these harnesses in a 69, do you know what the wire might be for? Here are a couple a shaky pictures (both are fairly fuzzy and definitely huge): http://www.crazyrusty.com/chevelle/projects/electrical/full/brownwire.jpg http://www.crazyrusty.com/chevelle/projects/electrical/full/bolt.jpg JB 69 Chevelle Malibu 1969 Chevelle Electrical Project http://www.crazyrusty.com/chevelle/projects/projects.htm --- End Message ---
Re: [Chevelle-list] NEW ADDITION
Joey, Congratulations and enjoy. Gene > TODAY 4/20/2004 MY SON WAS BORN AT 5:48 PM EST WE HAVE > ANOTHER CHEVELLE LOVER BORN !! > HE CAME OUT WEARING HIS CHEVELLE HAT ON > > JOEY > A.C.E.S. # 6354 > > > > > __ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢ > http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Hot Start Problem
I have the same MAD remote solenoid setup and like it very much. There are some other minor advantages to the set up, but it does take away from a completely stock look. Gene
Re: [Chevelle-list] Which oil Filter do I use
I'm confused. If you add a 1/2 quart larger filter capacity, you can add a full quart more oil to the system? Please explain. Thanks
Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 El Camino and 2 Door Hardtop
The 68-72 wagons and El Caminos where the same frame size, but the El Caminos were boxed and the wagons weren't. Not sure about the earlier years. Gene > You can use other 'A' body wagon frames for El Caminos. Ed in SF > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > > 64-67 Chevelles all have the same wheelbase. > > The wagons and ElC 's are longer, but it's behind rear wheels. > > The 2 dr and 4 doors can use same frame, convertible is boxed frame. > > Wagon's and El C's are same length but El C has boxed section for early rust > through! > > 68 and up have diferent frame and front fender(?) issues and I'll leave that > to someone else. > > The Hollander interchange is useful for figuring this stuff out. Pretty sure > there other GM 'A' body cars that can be used as frame donors except for the El > Camino of course. I can look it up if someone needs that info. > > > > Pete Geurds > > Douglassville, PA > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Fwd: FW: Re: Interior supplyer ?//////
I don;t think that it is true. I have purchased parts from them a couple of times and visited their traveling truck at swap meets, good people. Things could change, but I don't think so. They just sent out a sale flyer with some good stuff in it, haven't called yet. Gene
Re: [Chevelle-list] Gas Prices
I've had 3 top notch mechanics tell me that the ARCO blend is not that good for your engine. I don't know much about the ARCO blend versus Shell, 76, Chevron, but I do trust the opinions and experience of these people. My 2 cents. Gene > > > Ed Riggins wrote: > > > > I guess they are never going to see my gas money then. I have a Shell > > and a Chevron and a 76. > > Ed > > Why would anybody buy those brands when ARCO is so much cheaper? > > -- > Dennis Kiernan > San Francisco >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Replacing 40 year old wiring
Mike, I did both new harness(es) from M&H and the MAD Enterprises upgrade kit. While I had to remove or not use parts of the M&H harness(es) the combination has worked beautifully. You get the advantage of new wiring for most of the circuits and the MAD upgrades provide improvements as advertised. M&H isn't cheap but they are dead on the factory harness and their technical support is great. Mark at MAD is also a great resource for wiring and wiring problems. Painless is good stuff but you will do a lot more work matching wires and connectors. My 2 cents. Gene > Can I open up discussion on wiring? I had thought I > would keep my original wiring and upgrade it with a > kit deom MAD Enterprises because the early Chevrolets > had a fairly large voltage drop from the Horn Relay to > the dash switches. My car is a non SS car and I just > want supportability. So, with that said, what has been > your experience? Has anyone used the "Painless" > replacement assemblies? Thanks in advance for your > thoughts and help. > > Mike Fry > Valley View, Texas. > > > __ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want. > http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools >
Re: [Chevelle-list] tail out of the trunk meaning
S & H Green Stamps.anyone remember what the S & H stood for? I think that it was Sperry and Hutchinson or something like that. Geez are we that old. Gene
Re: [Chevelle-list] tail out of the trunk meaning
My recollection is that it all got started with an Exxon gas commercial many years ago, where they promoted a tiger in your tank. They sold or gave away tiger tails that could be hung out the gas tank lid. At least that is my memory of when these things got started. Gene > > > > > > I have been around cars and car shows my entire life, however, I don't have > a clue about the tail sticking out of the trunk. Where did it start? What > meaning, if any, does it have? Any trivial information would be good to > know, so this year when at our cruise nights and my 6 yr twins ask "what's > the sticking out for?" I'll have better answers for them rather than just > laughing with them about the cat or raccoon that is stuck in the trunk. > > Krister Meister (no fuzzy dice or tails) > Bloomingdale, IL > '66 #'s matching > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] E bay question
I realize that this is a little off topic, but it does cover cars and bidding. I complained to Ebay a couple of weeks ago about a dealer that had put a certain vehicle up for auction and 6 weeks in a row pulled it in the last hour presumably because it didn't meet their minimum. This was always advertised as a "No Reserve" auction. Ebay's response was that sellers could pretty much do what they wanted to. Then I reminded them that the sellers always had threatening verbiage about the legality of the bids that buyers place, and they basically said "oh well". Guess this contract stuff only goes one way. They said that they cater to the big sellers and don't go after them for misrepresentations. My rant for today. Gene
Re: [Chevelle-list] E bay question
Fred, you are right. Minimizing what you pay given the Ebay proxy bidding processes, is best accomplished with last second bidding or sniping. The only exception to this strategy is if someone under prices an item and the "buy it now" is a real bargain, then you snap it up before the minimal bidding takes this option away. My 2cents. Gene
Re: [Chevelle-list] alternator ?
Check out the madelectrical.com web site. Mark explains the advantages/disadvantages of alternators, and he sells kits to convert external to internal. Hope this helps, it did help me. Gene
Re: [Chevelle-list] Boxing a frame
I know the El Camino frames are boxed but my Chevelle wagon isn't boxed, and I read somewhere that they weren't, so mine seemed normal. I don't know about the convertibles. Gene
Re: [Chevelle-list] cal car covers
I don't get it. My Noah covers have filled up like a pool and didn't let any water through. They also breathe to let water vapor escape. Maybe it is a bad seam that leaks, I don't know, but I've had these covers for 5 years and never had standing water under them on the vehicle. Just me 2 cents. Gene > Now you guys got me wondering tomorrow.. I'll soak my 64 with the hose > and take the cover off to see if it's WET underneath with you and Herb, > Both having the same results.. > guess I took there sales pitch for fact > > Wayne > > Ps ..it will also give me the oopportunity to measure the AMP meter shunt on > the rad support.. > - Original Message - > Wrom: OBUZXUWLSZLKBRNVWWCUFPEGAUTFJMVRESKPN > To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 6:30 PM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] cal car covers > > > > I put a brand new Wolf/Noah cover on my 64 GTO over the weekend. Herb and > I > > pulled it off on Sat. after a rain Friday night and the car was very wet. > I > > have one for my Elky also. I have to agree with Herb that they do well for > > keeping the car clean, but rain is gonna go right thru it. > > Mike H > > > > olleman > > - Original Message - > > Wrom: KMBIPBARHDMNNSKVFVWRKJVZCMHVIBGDADRZ > > To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 9:35 AM > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] cal car covers > > > > > > > Dang. .Herb.. I have two Noah covers with Kimberley Clark three layer > > > meterial... > > > thay do what they claim. .and mine keep the car dry when it's raining.. > it > > > also breaths like Tyvac metrail wicking moisture one way out ( away from > > the > > > car ) so you don't have the > > > tarrarium effect underneath the cover... > > > > > > Wayne > > > - Original Message - > > > Wrom: FSQHYUCDDJBLVLMHAALPTCXLYRWTQTIPWI > > > To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 6:37 AM > > > Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] cal car covers > > > > > > > > > > Hi John, > > > > > > > > I have a Wolf brand cover made from Kimberly Clark Evolution IV > > material. > > > > The manufacture claims it's a one way door for water/moisture meaning > > > water > > > > will evaporate from under it but will not soak through it. All I can > > say > > > is > > > > they are full of crap. Don't get me wrong, the covers are nice and > will > > > > protect from sun, air borne debri, bird droppings, tree sap, morning > > dew, > > > > etc., but they will NOT keep your car dry if it rains. The rain will > > soak > > > > through just as easy as if you had a bath towel on your car. > > > > > > > > If you're hoping the covers will protect from snow and ice, they > > probably > > > > will - to a point - but don't expect the cars to stay dry while under > > the > > > > cover. You may be better off investing in an awning for the cars > > outside. > > > > > > > > BTW, my cover cost $150.00 and came with a storage bag. It was a gift > > and > > > I > > > > think it came from either NPD or OPG. > > > > > > > > Herb Lumpp > > > > http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -Original Message- > > > > Wrom: GYOKSTTZRCLBDXRQBGJSNBOHMKHJYFMYXOE > > > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Nasta > > > > Sent: Friday, November 28, 2003 7:37 PM > > > > To: Chevelle List > > > > Subject: [Chevelle-list] cal car covers > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi all. I hope you had a nice holiday (or a nice day if you are not an > > > > American). > > > > > > > > I am considering buying 3 California car covers for my cars. I'm > > thinking > > > > Stormweave based on description, price and warranty. One car will be > in > > a > > > > garage, but the roof leaks a bit. The other two will be outside all > > > winter. > > > > Any feedback good or bad? Any recommendations on which is the best? > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > John Nasta > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] cal car covers
Hi John, I have used both the Stormweave and the Noah fabrics on my vehicles. Stormweave has a silky feel and is much lighter and compacts much better if you want to take it off and store it in the trunk at times. Noah is a much heavier fabric but holds water out extreamly well. I usually have a support in the bed of my truck to keep the water from pooling and one day it moved and the back filled up with water, none got through, just had a big swimming pool, so I know it keeps water out. If you are putting in on and just leaving it on for most of a season, the Noah may be a better choice since it costs 1/3 less and does the same job. Either way, they work great at keeping the water out and allowing the moisture to evaporate through the cover. Good Luck. Gene > Hi all. I hope you had a nice holiday (or a nice day if you are not an > American). > > I am considering buying 3 California car covers for my cars. I'm thinking > Stormweave based on description, price and warranty. One car will be in a > garage, but the roof leaks a bit. The other two will be outside all winter. > Any feedback good or bad? Any recommendations on which is the best? > > Thanks, > John Nasta > > > > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Dog dish caps
Rich, Did you try to call him at the number listed in the auction? I would do that first, and if you can't reach him leave the negative feedback message. You should give him a chance, many people don't check email very often. But people do read the feedback and you will help the next person and may even cost the guy some bid $$ on subsequent auctions. Gene
RE: [Chevelle-list] bad news - ICP going under
Well, I don't think the average American understands these issues of jobs going off shore. However, the low inflation rates are appreciated by average Americans. Now, my two cents says that the current overall business climate, that requires companies (driven by their stockholders and the overall markets) to continually show increasing profits forces them to look for cost savings anywhere they can. Guess what makes up substantial portions of the cost of goodslabor and cheap materials. So it seems likely that we will see more of this movement. Now my rant to all this is that the pay of CEO's has gone through the roof while the people delivering the goods has been restricted or jobs are gone. This is further infuriating when they are kicked out and get multi-million dollar bye outs. There is no longer any justifiable relationship between the dollars the CEO's are getting, the business they are responsible for, and the dollars the poeple delivering the products are getting. I could go on forever. Gene
RE: [Chevelle-list] Currie upper control arms don't fit
John, You should have had a similar problem with the bushing which "usually" needs to be ground down at that point to fit. I installed the Edelbrock adjustable arms and they were manufactured to clear the tab. I agree with Dave that you probably should grind off the new arm to allow it to pivot freely. My 2 cents. Gene
Re: [Chevelle-list] Car Covers
Mikey, I've used a number of different covers and the two that I have had great luck with are ones made of NOAH fabric and one made of Stormweave fabric. For the money NOAH is great and keeps out the moisture really well. I've had it form a swimming pool in the back of a truck that didn't have a support to force the rain off to a side. Stormweave is more expensive by 30%, but it is much lighter and compacts much more if you pull it off and store it in your trunk. I think that even though it is less expensive NOAH has a longer warranty. I've found the best prices recently at MarkII.com. My experience has found that most covers are manufactured by a few people and sold by many, so decide on a fabric and shop price. Hope this helps, Gene > Anyone got a good recomendation for a quality car cover for outdoor use? > Found out the chevelle is mostly likely gonna have to stick it out in the > rain, slush, and snow this winter and would like a cover for it. It isn't > mint so it is ok... has floor pan work to be done next spring anyways. > Thanks > > Mikey > > _ > Send instant messages to anyone on your contact list with MSN Messenger > 6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com > >
[Chevelle-list] Tools Explained
Couldn't resist one more. ___ Tools Explained Here's a list of tools and their typical usage. Anyone who has spent time working on cars will be able to relate to this. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive car parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing convertible tops or tonneau covers. ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling rollbar mounting holes in the floor of a sports car just above the brake line that goes to the rear axle. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting those stale garage cigarettes you keep hidden in the back of the Whitworth socket drawer (What wife would think to look in there?) because you can never remember to buy lighter fluid for the Zippo lighter you got from the PX at Fort Campbell. ZIPPO LIGHTER: See oxyacetelene torch. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for hiding six-month old Salems from the sort of person who would throw them away for no good reason. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against the Rolling Stones poster over the bench grinder. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say, "Django Reinhardt". HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a Mustang to the ground after you have installed a set of Ford Motorsports lowered road springs, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front air dam. EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters. PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor Chris to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack. SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit. TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup on crankshaft pulleys. TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and hydraulic clutch lines you may have forgotten to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle. BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin", which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round-out Phillips screw heads. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty suspension bolts last tightened 40 years ago by someone in Abingdon, Oxfordshire, and rounds them off.
[Chevelle-list] Might be a Racer If
Found this on a new web site and couldn't resist passing it along. Sorry if this is old news, but it is a funny clip and a useful site. www.prestage.com Gene You Might Be a Racer If ... You think the primary purpose of wings are to PREVENT flight. You take your helmet along when you go to buy new eyeglasses or check out cars. You are happiest when your street car's tires are worn to racing depth and the wear bars are showing. When something falls off of your car, you wonder how much weight you just saved. Your email address refers to your race car rather than to you. You've paid $4.00 a gallon for gas without complaining. You bought a race car before buying a house. You bought a race car before buying furniture for the new house. You're looking for a tow vehicle and still haven't bought furniture! The requirements you give your real estate agent are (in order of importance): 1) 8 car climate controlled garage with an attached shop. 2) Outside parking for 6 cars, a motor home, a crew cab dually, a 28' enclosed trailer and a 34' 5th wheel. 3) 3 phase 220V outlets in the garage for your welder. 4) A grease pit. 5) Deaf neighbors. 6) Some sort of house with a working toilet & shower on the property - or - hookups for the motor home. You sit in your race car in a dark garage and make car noises and shift and practice your heel and toe, while waiting for your motor to get back from the machine shop. You have enough spare parts to build another car. More than one racer supply store recognizes your voice and greets you by name when you call. You think the last line of the Star Spangled banner is: "Racers start your engines!" People know you by your class, car number, and car color. You astound the clerk at Sears by bringing in a snapped breaker bar every other week or so. Your family brings the couch into the garage to spend time with you. A neighbor asks if you have any oil, to which you query, "Synthetic or organic?" and they reply, "Vegetable or corn." You enjoy driving in the rain on the way to work. You always want to change something on your street car to make it handle better. You've tried to convince your wife you needed that flow bench to fix the air filter on her station wagon. You save broken car parts as "momentous". You've found your lawnmower runs pretty good on 108 octane gas (but doesn't particularly care for alcohol). The local police and state highway patrol have a picture of your car taped to their dashboard. Instead of pictures in your wallet, you have time slips. You quote your street tire wear life in weeks rather than miles. After you tell your wife where you'd like to go on vacation she answers: "Why...is there a race there?" You know at least three 1-800 numbers to aftermarket parts houses by heart. You are on a first-name basis with owners of every local speed shop. You want to take apart and rebuild things, even though they are not broken. You have the monetary equivalent of a lunar rocket invested in it, but your car still won't cut a good light or run the number. You own a vehicle that has at least 500 horsepower more than when it came out of Detroit. You look for hi-po cars in the movies and try to guess what engine size, tire size, and whether or not it has nitrous in it. You are the type of person who goes postal when you have to sit in a traffic jam for more than five minutes, yet you can spend five hours in the staging lanes. Every stoplight becomes a practice tree to test your ability to tree the guy in the other lane's eyes out. You wash your car like it was your firstborn child, you tend to its needs like it was your own body, you protect it like it's your family, then you drive it like you stole it. You understand racing is a way of life, not just a means of transportation.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle World
Mine arrived in Seattle area 2 days ago. Gene > Anyone else in North Texas get their latest issue yet? Man,the USPS is slow > these days. > Clint Hooper > H&H Custom,owner > LT5 Registry Director > http://www.LT5Registry.net/ > ACES #1650 > http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint_hooper.htm > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 forward wiring question
John, If it is green it is probably the water temp lead. At least that is what it is on my 71 El Camino. Gene > What's the wire on the forward lamp harness that has the braided cover on it > for? It's one of the first wires to come out of the harness. > > Thanks, > John Nasta > > > > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle front disc brakes
Trooper, thanks, just the information that I was looking for. Gene > Gene, > I purchased the same thing your asking about in June. I used everything > but the calipers. You can get rebuilt calipers at the local parts store for > $18.00 each so it wasn't worth using 30 year old ones (you still want to get > the old calipers with the setup so you can trade them in as cores). I pulled > the setup off a 71 Elky for $125. A guy I know who restores them and sells > the booster to rotors on E-bay is getting booster to rotors from junkyards > for $200-250. Hope that helps. > > Trooper > > - Original Message - > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2003 12:26 PM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle front disc brakes > > > > Sorry that I wasn't clearer in my original request. I rely on ESP too > > much. ;>) > > > > I am asking about a spindles/backing plates/calipers/rotors/lines and > > proportioning valve unit. Not included are the booster and master > cylinder. > > I'm considering buying the set. > > > > Thanks for asking for the clarification, > > Gene > > > Gene, > > > It depends what exactly your selling/buying. Are you talking just the > > > spindles/backing plates/caliper brackets (minimum, = calipers, rotors, > lines > > > can be purchased locally) or are you talking a complete power disk brake > > > setup from power booster to rotors. There are also many combinations in > > > between. > > > > > > Trooper > > > > > > - Original Message - > > > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2003 11:30 AM > > > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle front disc brakes > > > > > > > > > > Need opinions, please. What is a set of 70 Chevelle front disc brakes > > > worth > > > > (in good condition)? How available are they? > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Gene > > > > > > > > ___ > > > > Chevelle-list mailing list > > > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net > > > > > > > > > ___ > > > Chevelle-list mailing list > > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net > > > > > > ___ > > Chevelle-list mailing list > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net > > > ___ > Chevelle-list mailing list > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle front disc brakes
Sorry that I wasn't clearer in my original request. I rely on ESP too much. ;>) I am asking about a spindles/backing plates/calipers/rotors/lines and proportioning valve unit. Not included are the booster and master cylinder. I'm considering buying the set. Thanks for asking for the clarification, Gene > Gene, > It depends what exactly your selling/buying. Are you talking just the > spindles/backing plates/caliper brackets (minimum, = calipers, rotors, lines > can be purchased locally) or are you talking a complete power disk brake > setup from power booster to rotors. There are also many combinations in > between. > > Trooper > > - Original Message - > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2003 11:30 AM > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle front disc brakes > > > > Need opinions, please. What is a set of 70 Chevelle front disc brakes > worth > > (in good condition)? How available are they? > > > > Thanks, > > Gene > > > > ___ > > Chevelle-list mailing list > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net > > > ___ > Chevelle-list mailing list > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle front disc brakes
Sorry that I wasn't clearer in my original request. I rely on ESP too much. ;>) I am asking about a spindles/backing plates/calipers/rotors/lines and proportioning valve unit. Not included are the booster and master cylinder. I'm considering buying the set. Thanks for asking for the clarification, Gene > Gene, > It depends what exactly your selling/buying. Are you talking just the > spindles/backing plates/caliper brackets (minimum, = calipers, rotors, lines > can be purchased locally) or are you talking a complete power disk brake > setup from power booster to rotors. There are also many combinations in > between. > > Trooper > > - Original Message - > Wrom: MVRESKPNKMBIPBARHDMNNSKVFV > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2003 11:30 AM > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle front disc brakes > > > > Need opinions, please. What is a set of 70 Chevelle front disc brakes > worth > > (in good condition)? How available are they? > > > > Thanks, > > Gene > > > > ___ > > Chevelle-list mailing list > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net > > > ___ > Chevelle-list mailing list > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
[Chevelle-list] Chevelle front disc brakes
Need opinions, please. What is a set of 70 Chevelle front disc brakes worth (in good condition)? How available are they? Thanks, Gene ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-list] Column to floor conversion
Ken, Forrest Bibbee has a console and shifter. At least he did yesterday. Email him at the following address [EMAIL PROTECTED] Good luck, Gene > Hello all, >I am looking for a console and wiring for it for my 70 Chevelle. Anyone > know where I can get one? > thanks, > Ken > ___ > Chevelle-list mailing list > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-list] Column to floor conversion
Diane, You didn't mention the console wiring harness, which you will need if you want console lights and the neural safety switch hooked up. Also, do you have the gauges dash wiring harness? If not, you will need some help with the wiring differences. Not a huge problem, you just need to know that they are different and no one that I am aware of has schematics of the gauge wiring. Gene > Sounds like you have what you need. Your only missing a floor shift column > and the floor shift blank to cover up the indicator on the dash. I question > where is your neutral safety switch if you don't change the column right > away. I believe the shift rod still hooks to the column so in key off > position it is locked in park. There is a different lever on the trans for > both the floor shift cable and shift rod to the column, but that's about > it. > - Original Message - > Wrom: NBOHMKHJYFMYXOEAIJJPHSCRTNHGSWZIDR > To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 10:03 AM > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Column to floor conversion > > > > My 72 Chevelle Malibu has a column shift, I have the console, and a > > shifter, and the cable for the shifter. I really want to do this > > conversion. I am planning on changing the 350 turbo to a 200R4 maybe > > next year with the economy the way it is. Can anyone give me a steps > > needed to pull this off? I also have the gauges dash I plan to > > install...you gotta love these cars to want to do all this...anyway, > > thanks up front for your ideas. :-Diane > > > > > > > > ___ > > Chevelle-list mailing list > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net > > > ___ > Chevelle-list mailing list > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-list] Starter & wiring
Having gone through a wiring nightmare which forced me to learn about wiring, I strongly agree with Steve. New wiring is very important and taking advantage of improved wiring engineering makes the whole system operate at a higher level. If you want to stay original there are a number of people (M&H comes to mind) that produce very high quality harnesses. Gene > Actually you both have points I agree with on this subject. I think while > there is a very small percentage of people here that are going for 100% > stock look, I'll bet a true, "non-modified" car is extremely rare. Whether > you put a different solenoid, change the wiring, or put a mini-starter on > it, it's all modifications from what the factory did. While the cars were > great in their day, a lot of things have been improved upon, and I think > high tech has it's place on our cars. Each person has their idea of what > works for them and that's what makes looking at other guy's cars fun and > interesting. In fact, I have seen a lot of good ideas I just might use or > modify from what others have done. > > Now, since you mentioned wiring, ..man that is one area I think scares > the heck out of most people. Everyone has their talents, things they will > tackle,things they will learn, things they hire out, and things they get > help with. That's just part of the hobby. But I happen to think that wiring > is one of the most neglected parts of a restore because a lot of guys are > afraid of screwing it up and places to take it to right are not cheap or > readily advertised. I do understand this, as it's also one of the most > dangerous areas of the car as far as fires go and connection frustrations > can make you want to pull your remaining hair out. However, neglect in this > area can be just as dangerous with insulation that cracks and falls off and > wiring that can't handle new and heavier loads. > > While I am no car wiring expert, and have to study up on it, my experience > working in electronics and being around cars for years tells me that I don't > want any old wiring left in my car, that I will upgrade wiring and > connections and use high tech components and will have no connections that > are crimped only. I'll be soldering all of my connections thank you! There > are many good places to help with electrical components and the Street > Rodders have many companies catering to them for a variety of needs. My > friend have street rods and I attend their events and learned a lot about > how they make a high tech street machine out of old junkers. One of my > favorite companies for electrical products is Haywire. As with most other > car companies, their web site sucks, but they have an old timer working for > them that could wire up a gigawatt generator from steel wool if he had to. > They also have a lot of other supply companies that have great ideas for > electrical products including gold plated terminals, large gauge stranded > wire, and things that look just as good as they perform. I think we have a > lot we could learn from street rodders in this area. > > > Steve > -Original Message- > Wrom: QNQEMSFDULHPQQWOYIYZUNNYCGPKYLEJGDG > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mike Holleman > Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 12:05 PM > To: The Chevelle Mailing List > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Starter > > >Pete, > What in the world does need have to do with anything? We are car nuts. We > want to spend money on things we want on our cars. Don't go trying to invoke > common sense in to the mix. It don't fit. Jeez, I hope my wife doesn't read > your post. > Mike > - Original Message - > Wrom: VCJVTLBXFGGMEPYOQKEDOTWF > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 11:37 AM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Starter > > > In a message dated 9/3/2003 9:33:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > > Why are you going with a mini starter? heat soak, bad starter, > > > > or just not enuff juice! Are you running a stock one now? > > > > > I was going to post this when I first signed up but was shy I > guess > On one of my 64 Chevelles I used to have problems with the starter not > kicking in. > This was all from engine heat and 30 yr old (at the time) wiring. > It was a 6 cyl so the headers were on the other side of engine so no > blaming them! > I bought a Chrysler starter relay which looks like a heavy duty version > of a GM horn relay. > Sorry no part number and there were several variations, but figure mid > 70's. (Find an old parts guy) > Mine has a 5/16" stud for incoming current, #10 or 12 screw for > outgoing, and a blade terminal for the actuating voltage. (plus a mounting > bracket built in) > Pretty simple on a six cylinder as I could mount it on starter end bolt. > I took the current from the pos. battery cable post on solenoid, ran > outgoing from relay to where ori
[Chevelle-list] Brake proportioning valve
I was under my 71 El Camino yesterday and noticed that the brake proportioning valve was 1/4 inch away from my headers attached to the frame rail. I need opinions/suggestions: do I need to move it? If so, where is the best place to move it to? Any easy solutions? Thanks, Gene ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-list] 1970-72 Chevelle wiring harness (fwd)
Sorry for the multiple messages, local server kept giving me errrors to the send so I resent multiple times. Gene ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-list] stereo 72 chevelle speakers, I found it!
Diane, FYIIf you are fabricating the connections and have a round gauge set up with the amp gauge in the upper left corner be sure to give enough clearance between the speaker and the amp gauge posts (probably cover the posts). I understand that the speakers can sometimes loosen or bounce and make contact with the amp gauge connections and make a mess. M&H Electrical Fabricators says this is a main cause of dash fires in the round gauge cars. Gene > Pictures and all, for everyone's technical assistance. > its just these little tabs I need to fabricate. I notice that without > the original stereo braces the dash bounces more, and isn't as sturdy. > Forget OPG replacements go to > http://www.antiqueautoradio.com/speakers.htm and get your speakers > right. ;-Diane > > > > ___ > Chevelle-list mailing list > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-list] 1970-72 Chevelle wiring harness
James is right. 72 is different than 71 and probably forces changes to the engine and forward wiring harnesses also. Obvious difference is the seat belt warning light and buzzer on the 72. Gene > In a message dated 8/6/03 1:04:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > << I have a GREAT used wiring harness with fuse box for a 1970-1972 Chevelle > with tach cluster. If anyone is interested, e-mail me and make an offer. This > is a used unit but in excellent condition and is complete. > > James. > Signature Clock & Gauge >> > > Just FYI, a 72 harness is different from 70-71. > > Tom > > ___ > Chevelle-list mailing list > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
RE: [Chevelle-list] Blown Head Gasket PART 2
I agree with Sarge. Selling the car in frustration will most likely cost you a whole lot more in the long run than getting this current problem figured out and fixed. Besides, buying a new car may just bring on a whole new set of problems.then how would you feel..more than frustrated. Gene > You may not have screwed up. It could actually be a cracked head. That > would suck, but it's not worth selling your car over. I understand your > frustration, I cracked a head before, it sucks. Luckily, I was able to see > the crack before I reassembled. You can try retorquing the bolts holding > everything together first, and see if that will fix it. If you are > EXTREMELY lucky, the bolts may have just loosened up enough to let the water > pass through. Most likely, you'll need to tear her back down, and check > your gaskets again for possible leaks. If there are no visible leaks, I'd > take the heads to a machine shop, and have them check for cracks. A head > can be cracked, and not be visible. Good luck with it. If you want to add > some competition to it, since neither of us can go out and race other cars > right now, we can race to see who fixes their car first! ;-) > > > SARGE > > 69SS/Clone > > -Original Message- > Wrom: XLYRWTQTIPWIGYOKSTTZRCLBDXRQBGJSNBOHM > Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 7:49 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Blown Head Gasket PART 2 > > > > Okay guys... I apparently screwed up somewhere. I've been changing the oil > the last couple of days to get all the brownish looking oil out after I > changed the head gaskets and put everything back together. Yesterday > everything was looking better. I drove across town and checked the oil. It > looked clean and there was no fluid loss from the radiator. I came home > last night and took it for a drive again and then parked it for the night. > When I went out to change the oil this morning I had a rush of water come > out, and then the oil soon after. I knew that wasn't good. > > So, I guess I screwed up somewhere. My question is this is there any > way to tell if I screwed up on the head gaskets or just the intake manifold? > > > P.S.: If anyone wants a deal on a 71 Chevelle let me know. I'm so > frustrated with all of this right now, I'm ready to sell it and buy a new > car. This would be one of those deals someone was talking about the other > day where you make out like a bandit on all the aftermarket stuff at my > expense. It's got a new 4 core radiator, dual 12" electric fans, new crate > engine (11/02) 350/375 horse, Edelbrock Q-Jet, MSD HEI, CS130 alternator, > Edelbrock alum. water pump, custom interior, cragar keystone klassics, > Vintage air, Global West 12" 1LE front disks, sound system... > > > Rodney. > 71 Chevelle > El Mirage, AZ > > ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-list] 1970-72 Chevelle wiring harness
James is right. 72 is different than 71 and probably forces changes to the engine and forward wiring harnesses also. Obvious difference is the seat belt warning light and buzzer on the 72. Gene > In a message dated 8/6/03 1:04:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > << I have a GREAT used wiring harness with fuse box for a 1970-1972 Chevelle > with tach cluster. If anyone is interested, e-mail me and make an offer. This > is a used unit but in excellent condition and is complete. > > James. > Signature Clock & Gauge >> > > Just FYI, a 72 harness is different from 70-71. > > Tom > > ___ > Chevelle-list mailing list > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: wiring harness
John, My experience is to get as close to the year and engine/lights/dash harnesses that you can. If you don't you risk headaches later as you try to hook up or change other components. I purchased an El Camino that had a different year dash harness, and the previous owner had the wire block on the firewall all re- configured to work with the new harness. When I had to replace the harness, I had to replace all harnesses or face re-locating numerous engine/light wires one at a time to be sure all accessories would function properly. M&H does outstanding work and they will give you advise if you call. Great technical support, it is worth the call. Gene > Going to buy an engine wiring harness for my 66 Chevelle, I have a 350 in it > . Will any V8 harness work with that, no idiot lights just guages ?? Also any > recommendations on M&H Electric for a harness ?? > > John > Malibuman66 > Phila, Pa ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-List] thermostat recommendations?
Not sure what guages you are using to read the temp, but if it is a mechanical one, you might want to test it (it is fairly easy) to be sure the readings that you are getting are accurate. I struggled with a similar problem years ago and then discovered that my guage was reading 15 degrees high and I really didn't have the problem that I though I had. Just a thought. Gene > OK, thanks guys... > a 180 it is then... > I'll see what happens with that.. > I have a brand new chrome water pump I was waiting till winter to put on, if the > stat doesn't help much, I'll put the pump on and see what happens.. > BTW, the shroud is tight, the fan is inside the shroud, and I recently had the > rad. flow and pressure tested... > > Hey Dave... 480 Westbound?? where on the map are you located?? > > > Dan McIntosh > Pavement Scraping 1964 Impala SS > http://www.alloldchevy.com > > - Original Message - > Wrom: KBRNVWWCUFPE > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 4:13 PM > Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] thermostat recommendations? > > > Dan, I've always used 180 degree thermostats in my small blocks. Allegedly, > a hotter thermostat will offer a little better milage, while colder ones offer > better performance. In my not-so-humble opinion, I think 160 stats are too cold > for street use, although I know many people do run them. > > > > My 400 always runs a little warmer than 180, unless it's below 70 degrees out. > This morning, caught in that mess on 480 Westbound, where I idled the better > part of three miles, my engine never went over 195. I have an electric fan from > a GM3.8 FWD. My '72 Elky (stock 350, stock fan & shroud) also runs a 180 > thermostat and I've never had any problems with it either, although I don't have > a temp gauge. > > > > 210 is on the high end of safe. At 220, I'd turn the heater on or let the car > cool down a bit. > > > > As for tips to lower the temp, change the thermostat and make sure the shroud > is properly fitted against the radiator. The fan blades should be partially in > the shroud. I've never used Redline Water Wetter before, but have heard of > people having success with it on many occasions. Also, while not easy to > diagnose, the water pump could be suspect if the impeller blades are corroded > away, not circulating as much water as it should. > > > > -Dave > > > > > > -Original Message- > Wrom: GAUTFJMVRESKPNKMBIPBARHDMNNSKVFVWR > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dan McIntosh > Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 3:59 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [Chevelle-List] thermostat recommendations? > > > > Howdy.. > > On the way to a show the other day, my car got up to about 220°F. I think the > current thermostat is a 210°F unit... > > This was in stop and go traffic on a high 80's, low 90's type of day... > > I am running the stock 5 blade fan, and a full shroud. It is a 1971 El Camino > 350 engine.. in a 1964 Impala > > Is this a common operating temp for this motor? > > What do you all commonly do to reduce the temp... I used water wetter in my > Mustang, and it seemed to work OK, but it could have been the placebo effect... > > > > Thanks people! > > > > > > Dan McIntosh > Pavement Scraping 1964 Impala SS > http://www.alloldchevy.com > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Firing up my engine
I have a question (probably dumb) for the list. My El Camino has been sitting for 5 months during my restore/replace upgrade. I have the dash out waiting for a new harness so all of the dash and interior connections are unhooked. I am wondering if there is a safe/sane way to fire up the BB to let it run for a while? Can I do it without trying to jumper dash wires? Can I do it and somehow bypass the whole dash harness? Thanks for any suggestions or comments. Gene - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Q: Stuck brake line connection!
Gibbs or liquid wrench followed by vice grip pliers have always worked for me, but they tear up the head. Course if the head is already rounded doesn't hurt much. Gene > I was about to change the rear brakes, cylinders & lines but > the right brake line connection on top of the rear axel > is stuck & the "bolt" round! > Any good ideas how to loosen this bolt? > > Best regards > Pelle Andersson > ** > Just on the border of your waking mind > There lies... Another time > Where darkness & light are one > And as you tread the halls of sanity > You feel so glad to be > Unable to go beyond > I have a message > From another time... > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Voltage
Gary, Check out madelectric.com. Very good technical articles concerning wiring efficiencies and inefficiencies in muscle cars. I think he explains why you are seeing what you are seeing with your Chevelle. Gene > I've got a couple of questions about the charging system in a '70 Chevelle. > I just replaced the alternator and the voltage regulator. When idling, the > voltage typically runs around 13 volts (just after starting the car). What > concerns me however, is that when I race the engine the voltage goes up to > 15 volts. Is this normal? Also, when idling, sometimes the regulator will > let the charging system "drop out", meaning it will drop all the way back to > the nominal 12 volts, and then pop back up the 13v. This seems reasonable > if the battery doesn't need a charge, but it does this in such a way that > the dome light (if it's on) has a noticeable flicker. I have run ground > wires all over, and I'm sure the regulator and alternator are well grounded. > I just wonder if this operation is normal. At some point I plan to put a > nice stereo in the car, and I really don't want to fry that. > > Gary Treible > York, PA > > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] 70-72 SS Dash brake light Lens
I have my dash apart replacing the old bezel. The dash lights weren't working when I bought my Elky so I don't know what lense works for what. Is the lense you are looking for below and to the right of center of the speedo? If that is the one I have it. Gene > Does anyone happen to have one of those little red lenses that goes in the > 70-72 SS dashes that indicates the parking brake is set? I need a new one > and I am trying out all of my sources to find one. > > Tom - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Instrument Cluster Questions
I am in the process of replacing the dash bezel and instrument cluster lens on my 71 Elky. As I pulled the original pieces apart I noticed a thin foam (I think) washer that seemed to isolate the metal instrument housing from the plastic bezel. My questions are...what are they, do I need them, where can I get them, or is there an alternative material that I can use? I also need two of the black bulb holders. Are they available somewhere, or do I need to visit a wrecking yard to find them. As always thanks for any information that you can share. Gene - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] 12 Bolt Axle ID
Thanks. It is still a 2.73 so it is probably original. Gene > In a message dated 3/22/2003 7:28:48 PM Eastern Standard Time, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > > I am just starting to rebuild a 12 bolt rear end and found the numbers CKD > > 1106B1 stamped on the axle tube. Can anyone help with identification? I > > think that it came off a 70 Chevelle. > > > > Thanks, > > Gene > > > > It is correct for a 1970 model year > CKD = 2.73 ratio, open end rear/non posi > 1106B1 = built Nov. 06 at the Buffalo gear & axle plant > > Tom - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] 12 Bolt Axle ID
I am just starting to rebuild a 12 bolt rear end and found the numbers CKD 1106B1 stamped on the axle tube. Can anyone help with identification? I think that it came off a 70 Chevelle. Thanks, Gene - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] 12 Bolt Questions
Need some information about 12 bolt rear ends. I recently purchased a 12 bolt housing that has apparently been modified for a c-clip eliminator set up. I didn't realize it until I started pulling parts together. Now my questions. What is the correct measure flange to flange for the 12 bolt (want to be sure no other housing mods were done)? If no other modifications were made to the housing, can I use the stock axles (c-clip design) with c-clip eliminators? And last, are there any big downsides to the c-clip eliminator set ups? Thanks, Gene - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] 101 Things about Muscle Cars
I understand that there was an article titled "101 Things about Muscle Cars" in the December 2002 Car Craft (I think). Does anyone know where I can get a copy of the article? Thanks, Gene - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Another fan/water pump question
I have used Redline's Water Wetter in my off road vehicles for years and it has worked great. Drops the temp 5 to 10 degrees. It has a kind of soapy texture and is supposed to make the water slide over the metal parts easier. At least that is what the sales literature says. In any event it has worked great for me. And, Redline makes a lot of great products so I trust them. Gene > Brian, > > Have you tried Redline's Water Wetter? I personally haven't used it, but > I've seen several guys here mention in the past that they've used it and > seen reductions in temperature. Definately cheap and easy to try. > > -Dave > > -Original Message- > Wrom: NNYCGPKYLEJGDGVCJVTLBXFGGMEPYOQKE > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Brian Zack > Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 12:59 PM > To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' > Subject: [Chevelle-List] Another fan/water pump question > > > Is the correct way for the clutch-type fan to shroud aspect to be 1/3 into > shroud or 1/3 out? My memory is getting me confused. Also, I would like my > car to run a little cooler in the heat of the summer when the A/C is on. I > have a stock water pump. Would you guys recommend a higher flow WP or maybe > just the auxillary elec. fan mounted in the shroud? Sitting in traffic with > the A/C on in 95 degrees and above temps, (with a new stock replacement > 3-core radiator) It will run up to about 225 degrees and that is starting to > make me a little nervous. Then I gotta turn off the a/c. Guess I should have > saved up for a better radiator. Are the higher flow water pumps worth the > money? > > Brian Zack > '70 Chevelle Malibu > mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Question about El Camino Rear Suspension
Thanks to all for the information regarding the El Camino rear suspension braces. I now know why mine didn't have them, but will probably add them. Thanks again, Gene > Gene, > The F40 and F41 suspension package had a frame brace that went from > the front bolt of the lower control arm to the front bolt of the upper > in front of the rear crossmember. I have driven chevelles with and > without them and have noticed no difference but I'm not real rough with > them in the corners. They aren't reproduced for the 68-72 Chevelles but > I see them on E-bay all the time (usually way over priced) > > Trooper > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > > > I have a 71 Elky that I want to add boxed control arms and a rear sway bar to > > improve handling. My questions are around the tubular brace (Edelbrock in > this > > case) that runs from the lower to the upper control arms for support. Some of > > the materials that I have read talk about replacing a current thin piece of > > metal which I don't seem to have on my 71. Was some form of brace standard on > > 71's and is the brace necessary or worth the money to add or upgrade? > > > > Thanks, > > Gene > > > > - > > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Question about El Camino Rear Suspension
I have a 71 Elky that I want to add boxed control arms and a rear sway bar to improve handling. My questions are around the tubular brace (Edelbrock in this case) that runs from the lower to the upper control arms for support. Some of the materials that I have read talk about replacing a current thin piece of metal which I don't seem to have on my 71. Was some form of brace standard on 71's and is the brace necessary or worth the money to add or upgrade? Thanks, Gene - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Retrofitting to rear shoulder belts
I have added rear 4 and 5 point harnesses in the rear of a couple of vehicles. I found a belt manufacture in southern California, Crow Enterprizes (crowenterprizes.com) that custom made belts exactly to my requirements (harnesses for kids seats) and he was very reasonable on the price. Hope this helps. Gene Nusbaum > > I have a "66 Chevelle SS and need to retrofit to a 3 point shoulder belt > system for the rear seat to accommodate my twins booster seats. I have > found several manufactures for after market shoulder belt, but wondering if > anybody here has added shoulder belts in the rear? I am flexible on > retractable or non-retractable, just what ever fits and works the best. > > Krister Meister > Bartlett, IL > '66 SS #'s matching > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
