Re: [Chevelle-list] Re STARTER
Darrell, best of luck with yours, what kind of warrenty does powermaster offer ? also really instrested in the relay that you are using, again, best of luck, for now mine is on the back burner, with three kids, and many other bills its not as easy as it once was, take care, ronnie [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Got in touch with Power-Master this morning, they said the starter should work with both the 153 168 tooth flywheel. The tech told us that either the battery was not at full charge or we needed a relay, like Pelle suggested. Trying that now and will let you all know how it works. This was another tech, decided to ask another as the first didn't seem to know. Darrell - See what's free at AOL.com. - Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re STARTER
Had no problem with the warranty, opgi replaced it no problems, very good about that. WE got it fixed finally, it needed a relay put in, got a mopar relay and works fine now. Mopars come with a relay and they have the gear reduction starter as well. Just had to hid it so no one could see it. We didn't get the floods here, except minor street flooding, I live on coast where it is flat. I did have lots of rain up at my place in central Texas, washed out the roads there, but my land is high so no damage. We just watch for hurricanes, and go when they so go. Try to get out early, don't want to get in that mess from Rita 2 years ago, that is what is good about being retired,can go early and beat the traffic. I know about the kids and bills, got my 2 through college and now it is my turn. I was lucky, worked for a major petro-chemical company and they offered us a buy out when I was 52, I got out and don't regret it either. All we have here to work at is chemical plants or refinery's, the chemical plant is a lot safer. Right, the one I worked for blew up it 1947 and took the town and 500 people with it. A ship in harbor caught fire and blew up,loaded with ammonia nitrite. Take care and have fun with the Chevelles, Darrell ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re STARTER
Got in touch with Power-Master this morning, they said the starter should work with both the 153 168 tooth flywheel. The tech told us that either the battery was not at full charge or we needed a relay, like Pelle suggested. Trying that now and will let you all know how it works. This was another tech, decided to ask another as the first didn't seem to know. Darrell ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re STARTER
Try the old trick of using a screw driver or tire iron across the starter terminal and the battery cable. If it turns over your got the juice but it is not being delivered. The wiring and switch is not the issue of getting the mini starter to work. Usual issue is battery cables, especially if you have replaced the ends. Replace both battery cables and make sure the block and your dash/ignition switch is properly grounded. All else fails do what GM did. You need a late model alternator and a modern relay for the starter. From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 4:41 PM To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re STARTER Got in touch with Power-Master this morning, they said the starter should work with both the 153 168 tooth flywheel. The tech told us that either the battery was not at full charge or we needed a relay, like Pelle suggested. Trying that now and will let you all know how it works. This was another tech, decided to ask another as the first didn't seem to know. Darrell _ See what's free at AOL.com http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF0002000503 .
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re STARTER
The mini starter solenoid requires more juice which the original ignition switch can't deliver. I don't know if it's due to deterioration over the years or if it's just simply too weak? Usually it gets worse over time, making it miss more and more. At least that's the experience me and my friends have had! I really recommend to always use a relay between the ignition switch the starter. Often it helps an original starter suffering from heat stroke too, since when wires and stuff gets hot they require more current, making the ignition switch choke and in worst cases act like a fuse. Pelle - Original Message - From: Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2007 1:13 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re STARTER I tried a mini starter and had the same problem. Finally went back to the stock starter. Works fine. Mini starter is still on the shelf collecting dust. Larry Williams 65 SS BB [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was thinking that, the old starter didn't have this problem. I replaced starter after it started to drag because of heat from headers. If I don't find problem will have to go back to old style and wrap the starter and headers in heat tape . The car was an automatic that I converted to 4 speed and has less than 2,000 miles on flywheel. I am getting to old for this, just wanted the car I had when I was a little younger, like 40 years ago. It is fun and does turn heads. Thanks again, Darrell See what's free at AOL.com http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF0002000503. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.1/889 - Release Date: 7/6/2007 8:00 PM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.1/889 - Release Date: 7/6/2007 8:00 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re STARTER
I'm having the problem of a god awful noise with mine no mater how i shim it. mine has a (currently) 305 with a 700R4 overdrive transmission. I've shimmed it in every way i can think of, I'm still at a loss how to get it right . i don't want to eat up my ring gear or my starter. any ideas from anyone with a 700R4 tranny? Bill Bradley Edmond Oklahoma Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I tried a mini starter and had the same problem. Finally went back to the stock starter. Works fine. Mini starter is still on the shelf collecting dust. Larry Williams 65 SS BB [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was thinking that, the old starter didn't have this problem. I replaced starter after it started to drag because of heat from headers. If I don't find problem will have to go back to old style and wrap the starter and headers in heat tape . The car was an automatic that I converted to 4 speed and has less than 2,000 miles on flywheel. I am getting to old for this, just wanted the car I had when I was a little younger, like 40 years ago. It is fun and does turn heads. Thanks again, Darrell See what's free at AOL.com http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF0002000503. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.1/889 - Release Date: 7/6/2007 8:00 PM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.1/889 - Release Date: 7/6/2007 8:00 PM -- Bill Bradley 67 Chevelle Malibu http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/chevellerestoration/ 71 Triumph Spitfire 82 Chevy C-10
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re STARTER
Bill, can you take the solenoid off and put the starter back on the car? Engage the bendix drive manually to see if it is doing something weird. mike - Original Message From: Bill Bradley [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, July 8, 2007 5:17:27 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re STARTER I'm having the problem of a god awful noise with mine no mater how i shim it. mine has a (currently) 305 with a 700R4 overdrive transmission. I've shimmed it in every way i can think of, I'm still at a loss how to get it right . i don't want to eat up my ring gear or my starter. any ideas from anyone with a 700R4 tranny? Bill Bradley Edmond Oklahoma Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I tried a mini starter and had the same problem. Finally went back to the stock starter. Works fine. Mini starter is still on the shelf collecting dust. Larry Williams 65 SS BB [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was thinking that, the old starter didn't have this problem. I replaced starter after it started to drag because of heat from headers. If I don't find problem will have to go back to old style and wrap the starter and headers in heat tape . The car was an automatic that I converted to 4 speed and has less than 2,000 miles on flywheel. I am getting to old for this, just wanted the car I had when I was a little younger, like 40 years ago. It is fun and does turn heads. Thanks again, Darrell See what's free at AOL.com http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF0002000503. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.1/889 - Release Date: 7/6/2007 8:00 PM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.1/889 - Release Date: 7/6/2007 8:00 PM -- Bill Bradley 67 Chevelle Malibu http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/chevellerestoration/ 71 Triumph Spitfire 82 Chevy C-10 Don't get soaked. Take a quick peak at the forecast with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re STARTER
Bill - Long time no hear from you. I haven't been to Norman in a couple of years _ no complaint by the way. Hope that your back is workin better for you.Have you seen this web page: http://macc.chevelles.net/starter.htm Its helped me a couple of times. On 7/8/07, mike f [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Bill, can you take the solenoid off and put the starter back on the car? Engage the bendix drive manually to see if it is doing something weird. mike - Original Message From: Bill Bradley [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, July 8, 2007 5:17:27 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re STARTER I'm having the problem of a god awful noise with mine no mater how i shim it. mine has a (currently) 305 with a 700R4 overdrive transmission. I've shimmed it in every way i can think of, I'm still at a loss how to get it right . i don't want to eat up my ring gear or my starter. any ideas from anyone with a 700R4 tranny? Bill Bradley Edmond Oklahoma Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I tried a mini starter and had the same problem. Finally went back to the stock starter. Works fine. Mini starter is still on the shelf collecting dust. Larry Williams 65 SS BB [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was thinking that, the old starter didn't have this problem. I replaced starter after it started to drag because of heat from headers. If I don't find problem will have to go back to old style and wrap the starter and headers in heat tape . The car was an automatic that I converted to 4 speed and has less than 2,000 miles on flywheel. I am getting to old for this, just wanted the car I had when I was a little younger, like 40 years ago. It is fun and does turn heads. Thanks again, Darrell See what's free at AOL.com http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF0002000503. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.1/889 - Release Date: 7/6/2007 8:00 PM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.1/889 - Release Date: 7/6/2007 8:00 PM -- Bill Bradley 67 Chevelle Malibu http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/chevellerestoration/ 71 Triumph Spitfire 82 Chevy C-10 Don't get soaked. Take a quick peak at the forecast with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re STARTER
I was thinking that, the old starter didn't have this problem. I replaced starter after it started to drag because of heat from headers. If I don't find problem will have to go back to old style and wrap the starter and headers in heat tape . The car was an automatic that I converted to 4 speed and has less than 2,000 miles on flywheel. I am getting to old for this, just wanted the car I had when I was a little younger, like 40 years ago. It is fun and does turn heads. Thanks again, Darrell ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re STARTER
I tried a mini starter and had the same problem. Finally went back to the stock starter. Works fine. Mini starter is still on the shelf collecting dust. Larry Williams 65 SS BB [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was thinking that, the old starter didn't have this problem. I replaced starter after it started to drag because of heat from headers. If I don't find problem will have to go back to old style and wrap the starter and headers in heat tape . The car was an automatic that I converted to 4 speed and has less than 2,000 miles on flywheel. I am getting to old for this, just wanted the car I had when I was a little younger, like 40 years ago. It is fun and does turn heads. Thanks again, Darrell See what's free at AOL.com http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF0002000503. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.1/889 - Release Date: 7/6/2007 8:00 PM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.1/889 - Release Date: 7/6/2007 8:00 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re-Assembly
I was checking out the Car Craft link regarding the BBC Frame stands that Jim T. provided and am wondering about my own re-assembly. I have the frame out and am doing the front end rebuild and should be done in the next couple weeks or so. I have to install the new rear end and suspension then I'll have a rolling chassis. My question is premature at this point, but I'm wondering how much of the car can I put together before I have to drop the body back on. Working on the engine, drive train, tranny, headers, brake lines, gas lines, etc. would be lots easier without a body and working from above rather than on my back. Unfortunately, I don't have a lift. Damned Thanks for any thoughts and suggestions. Jim
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re-Assembly
Careful with the Car Craft article. The frame mount example used was 68-72 and differences between the 307 and all-other V8s. The 350-396-404-454 use the same frame mounts in those years - 3980711/712 LH/RH. It's the 64-67 frame mounts in question - notably the 66. There are differences between the 283/327 frame mounts and 396 frame mounts. If you're going to be using any locking-tab engine mount, you need the 396 type frame mount. Even the Chevrolet parts book shows that if 'upgrading' to the locking-tab engine mounts you must use the 396 frame mounts - #3872815/816 LH/RH - regardless of the V8 engine being used. I don't know if you remember the big flap in the late 60s about Chevrolet rubber engine mounts failing (particularly the driver's side) that could cause the engine to lift under torque and jam the throttle. First fix came in the form of a cable/strap kit that dealers would install designed to keep the engine from moving too far if the rubber mount broke. Chevrolet had to fix the problem and this was the first solution. The permanent fix was the locking-tab rubber engine mount but it required the 396-style frame mount. I've seen several 'survivor' Chevelles that had the frame mounts replaced due to the factory recall to fix the rubber engine mounts so it wouldn't be uncommon to see 396 frame mounts in a 283/327 64-67 Chevelle. Dale. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Sullivan Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 10:04 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re-Assembly I was checking out the Car Craft link regarding the BBC Frame stands that Jim T. provided and am wondering about my own re-assembly. I have the frame out and am doing the front end rebuild and should be done in the next couple weeks or so. I have to install the new rear end and suspension then I'll have a rolling chassis. My question is premature at this point, but I'm wondering how much of the car can I put together before I have to drop the body back on. Working on the engine, drive train, tranny, headers, brake lines, gas lines, etc. would be lots easier without a body and working from above rather than on my back. Unfortunately, I don't have a lift. Damned Thanks for any thoughts and suggestions. Jim
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re-Assembly
I completed everything I could on my car before I set the body back down. It did make it extremely easy to do the work. If I had a place to hang the fuel tank and put a seat, I could have driven it around the block. You can see some pictures of it in the restoration section of my web site. Thanks,Dan Solomon Never be afraid to try something new. An Amateur built the Ark, professionals built the Titanic. http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2007 10:04:27 -0500 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re-Assembly I was checking out the Car Craft link regarding the BBC Frame stands that Jim T. provided and am wondering about my own re-assembly. I have the frame out and am doing the front end rebuild and should be done in the next couple weeks or so. I have to install the new rear end and suspension then I'll have a rolling chassis. My question is premature at this point, but I'm wondering how much of the car can I put together before I have to drop the body back on. Working on the engine, drive train, tranny, headers, brake lines, gas lines, etc. would be lots easier without a body and working from above rather than on my back. Unfortunately, I don't have a lift. Damned Thanks for any thoughts and suggestions. Jim
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re-Assembly
Jim, You can do everything you mentioned with the body off. The brake lines all but tying into the master, the fuel lines but for hooking to the tank. The exhaust system etc. It does make for a much easier task. Also take pictures when complete. You'll never get to see it like that again. I have a completely built 66 sitting in my shop waiting for the body to come back from the PB shop. C5 brakes, all Global west suspension components, AFX spindles. A new 502/502 crate motor with BTO 700R4 and a Moser rear. It sure is purty. Mike - Original Message - From: Jim Sullivan [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 11:04 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re-Assembly I was checking out the Car Craft link regarding the BBC Frame stands that Jim T. provided and am wondering about my own re-assembly. I have the frame out and am doing the front end rebuild and should be done in the next couple weeks or so. I have to install the new rear end and suspension then I'll have a rolling chassis. My question is premature at this point, but I'm wondering how much of the car can I put together before I have to drop the body back on. Working on the engine, drive train, tranny, headers, brake lines, gas lines, etc. would be lots easier without a body and working from above rather than on my back. Unfortunately, I don't have a lift. Damned Thanks for any thoughts and suggestions. Jim -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.17/730 - Release Date: 3/22/2007 7:44 AM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost
Amen Mike. Just cause you can get it done cheaper doesn't mean better. For the '69 SS I am currently doing a frame off restoration on ... I had both quarters replaced (FULL), full floor pan, trunk pan, both front fenders (NOS), trunk lid, front valance panel, outer fender wells, trunk drop offs, and all of the other rust spots cut out, new metal welded in, Hood fixed and the rest of the body smoothed. The car is now 100% rust free. Cost including parts was about $6500. This was with me and my friend Tom taking the car apart, sanding down the areas that were not going to be replaced down to metal and completely stripping/gutting the insides of the car, helping out with the body work (grinding, sanding, cutting, etc...) every weekend for 6 weeks. I had figured about $4500 going into it...Once we started removing sheet metal, we found other areas that needed fixing... that were NOT visible from the start. Luckily my body man is one of the best in the business and he was able to make most of what we needed on the spot. While the quarters were off, we POR-15'd all exposed metal. Needed.. maybe not... but good insurance!! He also suggested we fix other things while we were doing it... kind of pay me now ... or hate yourself later for not doing it. He is a good friend, so ripping me off was not even in the equation. So after $2000 more than I had budgeted (and another 2 weeks of labor), it was ready to take home. The car still needs to be final block sanded a few times to get it 100% ready for paint... which will probably cost about another $1000 or so. Then add about another $3500 for paint. Cheap NO but this is what it takes and costs to do it right. Good Luck!! Donnie
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost
Roger, Have any friends who know how to weld? You could probably learn from them. All depends on what you want- if this car is a driver for you, it doesn't need to have $3K put into it for welding work- How bad is the quarter now? Just rust? Mashed? All depends on what you want. Don't give up, just determine where you wanted the car to be. If you were looking to sell it at Barrett-Jackson, then that's a whole different ballgame. Regards, Jim '66 Malibu --- Roger Griggs [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That's kind of depressing news. I've had this 70 SS about 10 years and was ready to proceed, but with those costs, it may be out of my price range. It still needs a front clip and other things too. Thanks for the Info. --- Mike Holleman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That was the point of my post. It is expensive to get good metal work done. That two hundred hours covered all the metal from the back of the roof to the bumper. I had to remake the piece above the rearend and the piece that goes under the rear panel. Usually if a car needs quarters and trunk pans there will be several more pieces involved. Plus this is a two man job. If Goodmark can do a quarter install for 750.00 that's where I would go. From my experience a trunk floor install will take every bit of 50 hours if done right. Mike - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 2:26 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost 200 hours? Good Lord! At a nominal shop rate of $50/hr,that would equate out to $10,000. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino protourer http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm http://www.lateral-g.net/members/hooper/ You may find me dead one day in a ditch. But by God,you'll find me in a pile of brass. - Original Message - From: Mike Holleman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Roger, That is a major job. I would guess you are being quoted more than 150 man hours to do this. It takes that and more to do it right. This also will most likely require new inner fenders as well. I just finished this job on a 66 Chevelle. It was closer to two hundred hours. Plus I had to make some parts that were not available. Mike Holleman - Original Message - From: Roger Griggs [EMAIL PROTECTED] I need to have two quarter panels and trunk floor installed. Has anyone paid to have that done lately? The body shops here in town seem to want an exorbitant amount of money to put them in for me. They're full quarter panels, not skins. Thanks -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.24/668 - Release Date: 2/4/2007 1:30 AM Cheap talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates. http://voice.yahoo.com Need Mail bonding? Go to the Yahoo! Mail QA for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=listsid=396546091
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost
Jim, Thanks for the info. I actually had the front floor panels put in myself. I cut the old rusty ones out and had a friend weld them in for nothing. Maybe I will try to get someone to do it for me. The body shops I went to also wanted to put in a full quarter panel, but actually a skin would do because its really rusted around the wheel well lip and the lower part, not the whole quarter. I'm calling a few places today to see what else I can get. I appreciate the advice.I'm not giving up yet. --- J. Brady [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Roger, Have any friends who know how to weld? You could probably learn from them. All depends on what you want- if this car is a driver for you, it doesn't need to have $3K put into it for welding work- How bad is the quarter now? Just rust? Mashed? All depends on what you want. Don't give up, just determine where you wanted the car to be. If you were looking to sell it at Barrett-Jackson, then that's a whole different ballgame. Regards, Jim '66 Malibu --- Roger Griggs [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That's kind of depressing news. I've had this 70 SS about 10 years and was ready to proceed, but with those costs, it may be out of my price range. It still needs a front clip and other things too. Thanks for the Info. --- Mike Holleman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That was the point of my post. It is expensive to get good metal work done. That two hundred hours covered all the metal from the back of the roof to the bumper. I had to remake the piece above the rearend and the piece that goes under the rear panel. Usually if a car needs quarters and trunk pans there will be several more pieces involved. Plus this is a two man job. If Goodmark can do a quarter install for 750.00 that's where I would go. From my experience a trunk floor install will take every bit of 50 hours if done right. Mike - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 2:26 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost 200 hours? Good Lord! At a nominal shop rate of $50/hr,that would equate out to $10,000. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino protourer http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm http://www.lateral-g.net/members/hooper/ You may find me dead one day in a ditch. But by God,you'll find me in a pile of brass. - Original Message - From: Mike Holleman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Roger, That is a major job. I would guess you are being quoted more than 150 man hours to do this. It takes that and more to do it right. This also will most likely require new inner fenders as well. I just finished this job on a 66 Chevelle. It was closer to two hundred hours. Plus I had to make some parts that were not available. Mike Holleman - Original Message - From: Roger Griggs [EMAIL PROTECTED] I need to have two quarter panels and trunk floor installed. Has anyone paid to have that done lately? The body shops here in town seem to want an exorbitant amount of money to put them in for me. They're full quarter panels, not skins. Thanks -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.24/668 - Release Date: 2/4/2007 1:30 AM Cheap talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates. http://voice.yahoo.com Need Mail bonding? Go to the Yahoo! Mail QA for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=listsid=396546091 Need a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know. Ask your question on www.Answers.yahoo.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost
You know Donnie, that sounds like you got a good deal. I justdon't want to pay $10,000 to put on quarter panels. I'd GLADLY pay what it has cost you. Thanks.There's hope out there yet. --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Amen Mike. Just cause you can get it done cheaper doesn't mean better. For the '69 SS I am currently doing a frame off restoration on ... I had both quarters replaced (FULL), full floor pan, trunk pan, both front fenders (NOS), trunk lid, front valance panel, outer fender wells, trunk drop offs, and all of the other rust spots cut out, new metal welded in, Hood fixed and the rest of the body smoothed. The car is now 100% rust free. Cost including parts was about $6500. This was with me and my friend Tom taking the car apart, sanding down the areas that were not going to be replaced down to metal and completely stripping/gutting the insides of the car, helping out with the body work (grinding, sanding, cutting, etc...) every weekend for 6 weeks. I had figured about $4500 going into it...Once we started removing sheet metal, we found other areas that needed fixing... that were NOT visible from the start. Luckily my body man is one of the best in the business and he was able to make most of what we needed on the spot. While the quarters were off, we POR-15'd all exposed metal. Needed.. maybe not... but good insurance!! He also suggested we fix other things while we were doing it... kind of pay me now ... or hate yourself later for not doing it. He is a good friend, so ripping me off was not even in the equation. So after $2000 more than I had budgeted (and another 2 weeks of labor), it was ready to take home. The car still needs to be final block sanded a few times to get it 100% ready for paint... which will probably cost about another $1000 or so. Then add about another $3500 for paint. Cheap NO but this is what it takes and costs to do it right. Good Luck!! Donnie Have a burning question? Go to www.Answers.yahoo.com and get answers from real people who know.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost
Roger, Don't get discouraged. Be smart about how you go about your resto. Don't do a full quarter panel if you can avoid it. A full quarter gets into the roof line, the door jamb, the trunk and the rear panel. If a quarter skin will work you will find the labor costs will be a fraction of the full quarter install. A great deal of time is involved in removal of the old metal in floor pan and trunk pan installs. Do as much of this yourself as possible. Use caution not to remove too much. It is best to have the new pans in front of you for reference before any cutting is done. The 66 I referenced before is a worst case scenerio. It was almost too far gone to rebuild. Mike - Original Message - From: Roger Griggs [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 10:25 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost That's kind of depressing news. I've had this 70 SS about 10 years and was ready to proceed, but with those costs, it may be out of my price range. It still needs a front clip and other things too. Thanks for the Info. --- Mike Holleman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That was the point of my post. It is expensive to get good metal work done. That two hundred hours covered all the metal from the back of the roof to the bumper. I had to remake the piece above the rearend and the piece that goes under the rear panel. Usually if a car needs quarters and trunk pans there will be several more pieces involved. Plus this is a two man job. If Goodmark can do a quarter install for 750.00 that's where I would go. From my experience a trunk floor install will take every bit of 50 hours if done right. Mike - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 2:26 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost 200 hours? Good Lord! At a nominal shop rate of $50/hr,that would equate out to $10,000. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino protourer http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm http://www.lateral-g.net/members/hooper/ You may find me dead one day in a ditch. But by God,you'll find me in a pile of brass. - Original Message - From: Mike Holleman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Roger, That is a major job. I would guess you are being quoted more than 150 man hours to do this. It takes that and more to do it right. This also will most likely require new inner fenders as well. I just finished this job on a 66 Chevelle. It was closer to two hundred hours. Plus I had to make some parts that were not available. Mike Holleman - Original Message - From: Roger Griggs [EMAIL PROTECTED] I need to have two quarter panels and trunk floor installed. Has anyone paid to have that done lately? The body shops here in town seem to want an exorbitant amount of money to put them in for me. They're full quarter panels, not skins. Thanks -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.24/668 - Release Date: 2/4/2007 1:30 AM Cheap talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates. http://voice.yahoo.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.24/668 - Release Date: 2/4/2007 1:30 AM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost
You are right on target Donnie. You never can tell what will be exposed when you strip and disassemble. Now what do you think the cost would have been had you rolled it into your buddies shop and said fix it. That's what I am faced with. My customer hauled this 66 from Kansas to NC thinking it was solid. Once I had it apart it was enough to make a grown man cry. You either fix it or start hunting a better body. More often than not we have to fix em because the better ones are getting scarce. The added cost to this mans project was around $6,000. parts and labor. Mike - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 10:32 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost Amen Mike. Just cause you can get it done cheaper doesn't mean better. For the '69 SS I am currently doing a frame off restoration on ... I had both quarters replaced (FULL), full floor pan, trunk pan, both front fenders (NOS), trunk lid, front valance panel, outer fender wells, trunk drop offs, and all of the other rust spots cut out, new metal welded in, Hood fixed and the rest of the body smoothed. The car is now 100% rust free. Cost including parts was about $6500. This was with me and my friend Tom taking the car apart, sanding down the areas that were not going to be replaced down to metal and completely stripping/gutting the insides of the car, helping out with the body work (grinding, sanding, cutting, etc...) every weekend for 6 weeks. I had figured about $4500 going into it...Once we started removing sheet metal, we found other areas that needed fixing... that were NOT visible from the start. Luckily my body man is one of the best in the business and he was able to make most of what we needed on the spot. While the quarters were off, we POR-15'd all exposed metal. Needed.. maybe not... but good insurance!! He also suggested we fix other things while we were doing it... kind of pay me now ... or hate yourself later for not doing it. He is a good friend, so ripping me off was not even in the equation. So after $2000 more than I had budgeted (and another 2 weeks of labor), it was ready to take home. The car still needs to be final block sanded a few times to get it 100% ready for paint... which will probably cost about another $1000 or so. Then add about another $3500 for paint. Cheap NO but this is what it takes and costs to do it right. Good Luck!! Donnie -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.25/669 - Release Date: 2/4/2007 9:58 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost
Hey Donnie: That's alot of $ you got going into that car. We must be paying you too much as MCC Prez!! LOL!! You are correct. To do something right costs. Whether it's time or money. Do it right, do it once and you'll never regret it!! Hell, it's only money. The payback is when the Chevelle looks good, is dependable runs good, you're out cruising! Nothing like it. Just count all the thumbs up you get. Many guys dream. We get to live it!!! In my opinion, worth every $ I got in my car!! Good luck on the resto. Phil G. 65 SS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 10:32 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost Amen Mike. Just cause you can get it done cheaper doesn't mean better. For the '69 SS I am currently doing a frame off restoration on ... I had both quarters replaced (FULL), full floor pan, trunk pan, both front fenders (NOS), trunk lid, front valance panel, outer fender wells, trunk drop offs, and all of the other rust spots cut out, new metal welded in, Hood fixed and the rest of the body smoothed. The car is now 100% rust free. Cost including parts was about $6500. This was with me and my friend Tom taking the car apart, sanding down the areas that were not going to be replaced down to metal and completely stripping/gutting the insides of the car, helping out with the body work (grinding, sanding, cutting, etc...) every weekend for 6 weeks. I had figured about $4500 going into it...Once we started removing sheet metal, we found other areas that needed fixing... that were NOT visible from the start. Luckily my body man is one of the best in the business and he was able to make most of what we needed on the spot. While the quarters were off, we POR-15'd all exposed metal. Needed.. maybe not... but good insurance!! He also suggested we fix other things while we were doing it... kind of pay me now ... or hate yourself later for not doing it. He is a good friend, so ripping me off was not even in the equation. So after $2000 more than I had budgeted (and another 2 weeks of labor), it was ready to take home. The car still needs to be final block sanded a few times to get it 100% ready for paint... which will probably cost about another $1000 or so. Then add about another $3500 for paint. Cheap NO but this is what it takes and costs to do it right. Good Luck!! Donnie Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost
Roger... should have asked earlier where do you live Donnie
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost
I live in Birmingham, Alabama --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Roger... should have asked earlier where do you live Donnie Be a PS3 game guru. Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games. http://videogames.yahoo.com/platform?platform=120121
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost
Cost me $0 to have the quarters installed on the Charger. I guess that's because I did it myself along with installing new floor pans, trunk pans/drop offs, rockers, outer wheelhousings, fabrication pieces, etc. All I have in the car are materials costs. From the amount of hours I have in thatr car now (approaching 700), there is no way I could ever pay someone to do it for me, that's why I learned how to weld, do bodywork, and paint. I'll have the car turn key from a tusty/rotted POS for less than $17,000. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 3:50 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost Hey Donnie: That's alot of $ you got going into that car. We must be paying you too much as MCC Prez!! LOL!! You are correct. To do something right costs. Whether it's time or money. Do it right, do it once and you'll never regret it!! Hell, it's only money. The payback is when the Chevelle looks good, is dependable runs good, you're out cruising! Nothing like it. Just count all the thumbs up you get. Many guys dream. We get to live it!!! In my opinion, worth every $ I got in my car!! Good luck on the resto. Phil G. 65 SS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 10:32 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost Amen Mike. Just cause you can get it done cheaper doesn't mean better. For the '69 SS I am currently doing a frame off restoration on ... I had both quarters replaced (FULL), full floor pan, trunk pan, both front fenders (NOS), trunk lid, front valance panel, outer fender wells, trunk drop offs, and all of the other rust spots cut out, new metal welded in, Hood fixed and the rest of the body smoothed. The car is now 100% rust free. Cost including parts was about $6500. This was with me and my friend Tom taking the car apart, sanding down the areas that were not going to be replaced down to metal and completely stripping/gutting the insides of the car, helping out with the body work (grinding, sanding, cutting, etc...) every weekend for 6 weeks. I had figured about $4500 going into it...Once we started removing sheet metal, we found other areas that needed fixing... that were NOT visible from the start. Luckily my body man is one of the best in the business and he was able to make most of what we needed on the spot. While the quarters were off, we POR-15'd all exposed metal. Needed.. maybe not... but good insurance!! He also suggested we fix other things while we were doing it... kind of pay me now ... or hate yourself later for not doing it. He is a good friend, so ripping me off was not even in the equation. So after $2000 more than I had budgeted (and another 2 weeks of labor), it was ready to take home. The car still needs to be final block sanded a few times to get it 100% ready for paint... which will probably cost about another $1000 or so. Then add about another $3500 for paint. Cheap NO but this is what it takes and costs to do it right. Good Luck!! Donnie -- Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost
My neighbor is a pipefitter/welder by trade, and when I got the '66 I begged him to teach me how to weld. He taught me using his welder, and from there I did the completion of my driver rear quarter, the setup and installation of my passenger quarter, replaced the floor pans and the trunk- they're not 100% Grade A work, but the car still turns alot of heads and I saved alot of cash, just like Tom. Jim '66 Malibu --- Tom Rightler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Cost me $0 to have the quarters installed on the Charger. I guess that's because I did it myself along with installing new floor pans, trunk pans/drop offs, rockers, outer wheelhousings, fabrication pieces, etc. All I have in the car are materials costs. From the amount of hours I have in thatr car now (approaching 700), there is no way I could ever pay someone to do it for me, that's why I learned how to weld, do bodywork, and paint. I'll have the car turn key from a tusty/rotted POS for less than $17,000. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 3:50 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost Hey Donnie: That's alot of $ you got going into that car. We must be paying you too much as MCC Prez!! LOL!! You are correct. To do something right costs. Whether it's time or money. Do it right, do it once and you'll never regret it!! Hell, it's only money. The payback is when the Chevelle looks good, is dependable runs good, you're out cruising! Nothing like it. Just count all the thumbs up you get. Many guys dream. We get to live it!!! In my opinion, worth every $ I got in my car!! Good luck on the resto. Phil G. 65 SS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 10:32 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost Amen Mike. Just cause you can get it done cheaper doesn't mean better. For the '69 SS I am currently doing a frame off restoration on ... I had both quarters replaced (FULL), full floor pan, trunk pan, both front fenders (NOS), trunk lid, front valance panel, outer fender wells, trunk drop offs, and all of the other rust spots cut out, new metal welded in, Hood fixed and the rest of the body smoothed. The car is now 100% rust free. Cost including parts was about $6500. This was with me and my friend Tom taking the car apart, sanding down the areas that were not going to be replaced down to metal and completely stripping/gutting the insides of the car, helping out with the body work (grinding, sanding, cutting, etc...) every weekend for 6 weeks. I had figured about $4500 going into it...Once we started removing sheet metal, we found other areas that needed fixing... that were NOT visible from the start. Luckily my body man is one of the best in the business and he was able to make most of what we needed on the spot. While the quarters were off, we POR-15'd all exposed metal. Needed.. maybe not... but good insurance!! He also suggested we fix other things while we were doing it... kind of pay me now ... or hate yourself later for not doing it. He is a good friend, so ripping me off was not even in the equation. So after $2000 more than I had budgeted (and another 2 weeks of labor), it was ready to take home. The car still needs to be final block sanded a few times to get it 100% ready for paint... which will probably cost about another $1000 or so. Then add about another $3500 for paint. Cheap NO but this is what it takes and costs to do it right. Good Luck!! Donnie -- Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. It's here! Your new message! Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost
Roger, That is a major job. I would guess you are being quoted more than 150 man hours to do this. It takes that and more to do it right. This also will most likely require new inner fenders as well. I just finished this job on a 66 Chevelle. It was closer to two hundred hours. Plus I had to make some parts that were not available. Mike Holleman - Original Message - From: Roger Griggs [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 12:01 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost I need to have two quarter panels and trunk floor installed. Has anyone paid to have that done lately? The body shops here in town seem to want an exorbitant amount of money to put them in for me. They're full quarter panels, not skins. Thanks Never Miss an Email Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started! http://mobile.yahoo.com/services?promote=mail -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.24/668 - Release Date: 2/4/2007 1:30 AM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost
200 hours? Good Lord! At a nominal shop rate of $50/hr,that would equate out to $10,000. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino protourer http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm http://www.lateral-g.net/members/hooper/ You may find me dead one day in a ditch. But by God,you'll find me in a pile of brass. - Original Message - From: Mike Holleman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Roger, That is a major job. I would guess you are being quoted more than 150 man hours to do this. It takes that and more to do it right. This also will most likely require new inner fenders as well. I just finished this job on a 66 Chevelle. It was closer to two hundred hours. Plus I had to make some parts that were not available. Mike Holleman - Original Message - From: Roger Griggs [EMAIL PROTECTED] I need to have two quarter panels and trunk floor installed. Has anyone paid to have that done lately? The body shops here in town seem to want an exorbitant amount of money to put them in for me. They're full quarter panels, not skins. Thanks
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost
I had just the driver skin put on my '66 at Maaco about 5 years ago, and it ran over $500- and that was just for them to tack it in place. The only reason I had them do it is b/c that side of the car had been hit in the past, and I'd never done a skin prior to that one. So I let them tack in in place and I closed up the welds the rest of the way around. Hope this helps. Regards, Jim --- Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 200 hours? Good Lord! At a nominal shop rate of $50/hr,that would equate out to $10,000. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino protourer http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm http://www.lateral-g.net/members/hooper/ You may find me dead one day in a ditch. But by God,you'll find me in a pile of brass. - Original Message - From: Mike Holleman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Roger, That is a major job. I would guess you are being quoted more than 150 man hours to do this. It takes that and more to do it right. This also will most likely require new inner fenders as well. I just finished this job on a 66 Chevelle. It was closer to two hundred hours. Plus I had to make some parts that were not available. Mike Holleman - Original Message - From: Roger Griggs [EMAIL PROTECTED] I need to have two quarter panels and trunk floor installed. Has anyone paid to have that done lately? The body shops here in town seem to want an exorbitant amount of money to put them in for me. They're full quarter panels, not skins. Thanks Finding fabulous fares is fun. Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel bargains. http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost
That was the point of my post. It is expensive to get good metal work done. That two hundred hours covered all the metal from the back of the roof to the bumper. I had to remake the piece above the rearend and the piece that goes under the rear panel. Usually if a car needs quarters and trunk pans there will be several more pieces involved. Plus this is a two man job. If Goodmark can do a quarter install for 750.00 that's where I would go. From my experience a trunk floor install will take every bit of 50 hours if done right. Mike - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 2:26 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost 200 hours? Good Lord! At a nominal shop rate of $50/hr,that would equate out to $10,000. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino protourer http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm http://www.lateral-g.net/members/hooper/ You may find me dead one day in a ditch. But by God,you'll find me in a pile of brass. - Original Message - From: Mike Holleman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Roger, That is a major job. I would guess you are being quoted more than 150 man hours to do this. It takes that and more to do it right. This also will most likely require new inner fenders as well. I just finished this job on a 66 Chevelle. It was closer to two hundred hours. Plus I had to make some parts that were not available. Mike Holleman - Original Message - From: Roger Griggs [EMAIL PROTECTED] I need to have two quarter panels and trunk floor installed. Has anyone paid to have that done lately? The body shops here in town seem to want an exorbitant amount of money to put them in for me. They're full quarter panels, not skins. Thanks -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.24/668 - Release Date: 2/4/2007 1:30 AM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost
That's kind of depressing news. I've had this 70 SS about 10 years and was ready to proceed, but with those costs, it may be out of my price range. It still needs a front clip and other things too. Thanks for the Info. --- Mike Holleman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That was the point of my post. It is expensive to get good metal work done. That two hundred hours covered all the metal from the back of the roof to the bumper. I had to remake the piece above the rearend and the piece that goes under the rear panel. Usually if a car needs quarters and trunk pans there will be several more pieces involved. Plus this is a two man job. If Goodmark can do a quarter install for 750.00 that's where I would go. From my experience a trunk floor install will take every bit of 50 hours if done right. Mike - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 2:26 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost 200 hours? Good Lord! At a nominal shop rate of $50/hr,that would equate out to $10,000. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino protourer http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm http://www.lateral-g.net/members/hooper/ You may find me dead one day in a ditch. But by God,you'll find me in a pile of brass. - Original Message - From: Mike Holleman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Roger, That is a major job. I would guess you are being quoted more than 150 man hours to do this. It takes that and more to do it right. This also will most likely require new inner fenders as well. I just finished this job on a 66 Chevelle. It was closer to two hundred hours. Plus I had to make some parts that were not available. Mike Holleman - Original Message - From: Roger Griggs [EMAIL PROTECTED] I need to have two quarter panels and trunk floor installed. Has anyone paid to have that done lately? The body shops here in town seem to want an exorbitant amount of money to put them in for me. They're full quarter panels, not skins. Thanks -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.24/668 - Release Date: 2/4/2007 1:30 AM Cheap talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates. http://voice.yahoo.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost
I too have looked at the Goodmark install through C. Hopkins in Ga. I just picked up a 67 convertable in parts for my next project. (on a 71 442 conv. now) I anticipate that I will take it to Ga. for 1 quarter and full floor/trunk and rockers. The car I bought did not have front clip so I have also budgeted for inner/outer fenders and radiator support while there. Since I will have to ship/Trailer from Eagle River Alaska I have put a lot of thought into this. I don't anticipate starting on this car until late 08 so any info on this operation would be great. Thanks -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mike Holleman Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 1:17 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost That was the point of my post. It is expensive to get good metal work done. That two hundred hours covered all the metal from the back of the roof to the bumper. I had to remake the piece above the rearend and the piece that goes under the rear panel. Usually if a car needs quarters and trunk pans there will be several more pieces involved. Plus this is a two man job. If Goodmark can do a quarter install for 750.00 that's where I would go. From my experience a trunk floor install will take every bit of 50 hours if done right. Mike - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 2:26 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost 200 hours? Good Lord! At a nominal shop rate of $50/hr,that would equate out to $10,000. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino protourer http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm http://www.lateral-g.net/members/hooper/ You may find me dead one day in a ditch. But by God,you'll find me in a pile of brass. - Original Message - From: Mike Holleman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Roger, That is a major job. I would guess you are being quoted more than 150 man hours to do this. It takes that and more to do it right. This also will most likely require new inner fenders as well. I just finished this job on a 66 Chevelle. It was closer to two hundred hours. Plus I had to make some parts that were not available. Mike Holleman - Original Message - From: Roger Griggs [EMAIL PROTECTED] I need to have two quarter panels and trunk floor installed. Has anyone paid to have that done lately? The body shops here in town seem to want an exorbitant amount of money to put them in for me. They're full quarter panels, not skins. Thanks -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.24/668 - Release Date: 2/4/2007 1:30 AM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re unsubscribe
For the first time this year, but woefully not the last Im sure if you read the bottom of the digest, itll tell you how to unsubscribe to the mailing list. You got on the list by yourself; you have to get yourself off. --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Send Chevelle-list mailing list submissions to Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can reach the person managing the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re unsubscribe
get yourself off? snickernah, just too easy - Original Message - From: Dale To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 5:31 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re unsubscribe For the first time this year, but woefully not the last Im sure if you read the bottom of the digest, itll tell you how to unsubscribe to the mailing list. You got on the list by yourself; you have to get yourself off. --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Send Chevelle-list mailing list submissions to Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can reach the person managing the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re unsubscribe
I wondered how long itd take someone to catch that. GRIN Dale From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Bradley IV Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 8:31 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re unsubscribe get yourself off? snickernah, just too easy - Original Message - From: Dale To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 5:31 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re unsubscribe For the first time this year, but woefully not the last Im sure if you read the bottom of the digest, itll tell you how to unsubscribe to the mailing list. You got on the list by yourself; you have to get yourself off. --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Send Chevelle-list mailing list submissions to Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can reach the person managing the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: 66 chevelle productions
412,155 total '66 Chevelle production. 111,700 six cylinders, 300,500 V-8. 31,900 wagons, my book does not show a 2 door wagon for that year. El Camino had 35,119 produced for '66. Brian From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Re: 66 chevelle productions Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 10:28:43 EST does any one know the production totals for 66 chevelle ,el camino, wagons. was there any 2 door wagons produced _ FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar get it now! http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: 66 chevelle productions
My source has some different numbers in some areas - right or wrong. 447,364 total production (excluding 23,688 from Canada) 116,552 6-cyl/330,812 V-8 35,119 El Camino (4,885 6-cyl/30,234 V-8) 31,946 wagons (300 Deluxe and Malibu) (8,940 6-cyl/23,006 V-8) Last 2-dr wagon was 1965 but there have been at least one 66 converted to a 2-dr and it looks very nice. Dale McIntosh 67 El Camino 1967 Chevelle Reference CD now available! TC Gold #92 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Knight Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 11:10 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: 66 chevelle productions 412,155 total '66 Chevelle production. 111,700 six cylinders, 300,500 V-8. 31,900 wagons, my book does not show a 2 door wagon for that year. El Camino had 35,119 produced for '66. Brian From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Re: 66 chevelle productions Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 10:28:43 EST does any one know the production totals for 66 chevelle ,el camino, wagons. was there any 2 door wagons produced _ FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar - get it now! http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Chevelle Molding Clip Stud
Used them to put vinyl top trim back on my car. The previous owner mad removed the top and the studs. They work great. Be careful not to drill to large a hole or they will strip out when you tighten them. With the right size hole they are there to stay. I also added a dab of silicone in the hole before install to seal it. The price is high. I paid $0.15 each for mine.Thnaks, thats nice to know, where did you get yours from?Dan Solomon Dan
RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 29, Issue 33
Thank you and Merry christmas to all of you as well! Have Fun André -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of gail Sent: 16. desember 2005 20:06 To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Re: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 29, Issue 33 Merry Christmas to all yall Chevelle lovers. May the new year be good to each and every one of yall. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 2:08 PM Subject: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 29, Issue 33 Send Chevelle-list mailing list submissions to Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can reach the person managing the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Chevelle-list digest... Today's Topics: 1. Re: Headers (Mike Holleman) 2. RE: RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 29, Issue 30 (Dan Mascheck) 3. Re: Engine Paint ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) ___ Chevelle-list mailing list Chevelle-list@chevelles.net http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 29, Issue 33
Holiday Greetings to you too,Gail. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: gail [EMAIL PROTECTED] Merry Christmas to all yall Chevelle lovers. May the new year be good to each and every one of yall.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: remove
At 10:57 AM 12/15/2005, you wrote: please remove me from list thanks I thought you had been here long enough to know how to do that, but anyway-- To unsubscribe from this service you must first purchase a Craft-O-Matic Adjustable Subscription Cancellation Unit. The unit can be obtained from most hardware stores and dental clinics. Be sure to obtain the proper permits to operate the unit from the Nuclear Regulatory Commission and the Food and Drug Administration in Washington D.C. USA. Be sure to carefully unpack the kit and place each component in its accompanying mesh safety bag. Mount the Pershing DF4 mesinator on top of the perforated Gerring Mach 77 refibulator and attach them using the eight-millimeter torque fork. Be sure that the refibulator is mounted at a 66 degree angle and properly dispersed so that it is flush with the curved section of the Pyrex thistle tube. Place the four sections of the triangular separation gear into the posture cylinder and lock them into place using the band aid adhesive strip. Insert the wiggling pin into the wobbling hole, making sure that it seated correctly. Place the D cell battery and the eleven 9 volt batteries in the power chamber. The device should be calibrated before operation using the optional digital corkscrew accessory pack prior to operation. Insert the digital corkscrew through the electronic combustion service chamber using caution not to touch the reinforced tungsten igniter control module and quickly turn the inverter drive to 28.6 degrees. Turn the Craft-O-Matic Adjustable Subscription Cancellation Unit upside down and hit the bottom plate with a 48-ounce ball-peen hammer while shaking the unit vigorously. Force open the door to the incineration valve compartment and set the pressure gauge to 719 psi. Close the door and seal it shut with duct tape. The unit should now be properly calibrated and ready to use. Before activating the Craft-O-Matic Adjustable Subscription Cancellation Unit, you must first elevate it to a height of 229 feet above sea level to insure that the unit receives the proper oxygen level and barometric pressure. Point the aerial to 17 degrees north by northeast to within the parameters of the Telstar GS-2 weather satellite and apply pressure to the wing shaft on the southern most section of the modular accelerator. Using the special ratchet adapter supplied with the unit, rotate the heater core to the on position. The on position has been obtained when the green light begins to flash, signifying that the red light is about to go off. Once the red light is off, flip the toggle switch labeled ON/OFF to the ON position and count to 47 before logging on to the system. Logon using your username and password and wait for the prompt. Once prompted you must check the box with the appropriate action you wish to take and then press the pressure release button and turn off the compressor while turning the hand crank at 231 meters per minute. Next, press control, alt, delete, caps lock, shift, number lock, escape and tab simultaneously. Press enter. You will have one second to complete the procedure. If you fail to respond in the time limit allowed, simply purchase a new Craft-O-Matic Adjustable Subscription Cancellation Unit and start from the beginning. Please remember that this is the only way we will accept for you to unsubscribe from this service. We have made every attempt to simplify the procedure for your convenience. Failure to comply with the unsubscribe policy will result in immediate termination of your subscription so please follow the above directions closely Regards The Chevelle List
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: remove
if u took all that time u just spent putting that email together on your car may be u would have a show car by now but i will follow the instructions carefully and thanks cause i was a little UN sure on the middle part but i got it now
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: remove
Copy paste, takes about 20 seconds. I have had a show car for over two years now, even won some trophies with it. Wanna see it? http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Ark68SS/ I used this list to get a lot of advice help on the car. BTW, you get a monthly reminder on how to unsubscribe. May I suggest that you use the File-Save feature built into your computer to save this data so you don't have to ask. Here it is, http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you yours. BillL At 12:02 PM 12/15/2005, you wrote: if u took all that time u just spent putting that email together on your car may be u would have a show car by now but i will follow the instructions carefully and thanks cause i was a little UN sure on the middle part but i got it now
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: remove
Looking Good Bill. Larry Shouse - Original Message - From: Bill Lessenberry To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 1:34 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: remove Copy paste, takes about 20 seconds. I have had a show car for over two years now, even won some trophies with it. Wanna see it? http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Ark68SS/ I used this list to get a lot of advice help on the car. BTW, you get a monthly reminder on how to unsubscribe. May I suggest that you use the File-Save feature built into your computer to save this data so you don't have to ask. Here it is, http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you yours.BillLAt 12:02 PM 12/15/2005, you wrote: if u took all that time u just spent putting that email together on your car may be u would have a show car by now but i will follow the instructions carefully and thanks cause i was a little UN sure on the middle part but i got it now
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: remove
sorry for the typo
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: remove
Ditto. __ Mike Heiser1966 Chevelle SS | 1969 Chevelle Malibu | 1969 El CaminoChevelle El Camino Club of Oregon #254, ACES #6659, TC #2712 From: "Larry Shouse" [EMAIL PROTECTED]Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.netTo: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: removeDate: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 13:42:16 -0500 Looking Good Bill. Larry Shouse - Original Message - From: Bill Lessenberry To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 1:34 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: remove Copy paste, takes about 20 seconds. I have had a show car for over two years now, even won some trophies with it. Wanna see it? http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Ark68SS/ I used this list to get a lot of advice help on the car. BTW, you get a monthly reminder on how to unsubscribe. May I suggest that you use the File-Save feature built into your computer to save this data so you don't have to ask. Here it is, http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you yours.BillLAt 12:02 PM 12/15/2005, you wrote: if u took all that time u just spent putting that email together on your car may be u would have a show car by now but i will follow the instructions carefully and thanks cause i was a little UN sure on the middle part but i got it now 207227f.jpg MSN Premium brings together everything you need on the Internet in 1 place, including PC security!
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Bill's web site
Thanks, I had it made at the local mall at a T-shirt place. There's probably something like that in your area. BillL At 06:22 PM 12/15/2005, you wrote: I love the Real Cruisers have rock chips tag. I need one, and I have the chips to prove it. Bob Haggard
RE: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 29, Issue 30
I've had a turbo charged Mustang before! It was fun, but it's not an instant demand product. There is a tiny bit of lag. A Supercharger is positive, although it does have to hit a certain boost level. When I drop the hammer things happen. Ride in my 468 with the 8-71 BDSI'll bet on it VS a turbo any day!!(GRIN) Bring it on! Dan Mascheck Wharton, TX -Original Message- From: Keith Anderson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 9:32 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 29, Issue 30 No doubt blowers are sexy. But, a properly sized turbo will kick the snot out of a blower any day of the week. And they can be sexy too. You just have to open your hood. :) Keith From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2005 20:24:19 -0600 Come on Clint..Don't be a wimp...Get an BDS 8-71...It'll really crank out some real power!(LOL) -Original Message- From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 2:50 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway Yeah,I wish I had those kinds of problems. Am beginning to think a turbo is the way to go on my car's 355. It probably wouldn't cost any more than a new 383 crate motor and would be a heckuva lot faster. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
RE: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 29, Issue 31
DE1620 spray cans. Is it a correct color for '60s Chevy V8s? Does it last? Thanks, Dennis McGillis '65 SS - (Soon to be 350) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Brad Olson) Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] .060 small block Date: Tue, 13 Dec 2005 13:37:59 + -- Original message -- From: Brian Knight [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hey guys, does anyone have any experience with a .060 350? I have a chance to pick up a fresh short block for cheap, but I wonder if it will be prone to overheating. I've never built or ran one .060 over. It would be a mild build for semi-daily use. Any advice or comments would be appreciated. Ask if the block was sonic-tested prior to the overbore. Any chance you'd be able to speak with the shop that did the machine work? Brad From: Shipping [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Chevelles for auction Date: Tue, 13 Dec 2005 10:12:41 -0500 They are not mine and I have been told the reserve is 15K per. They are both listed as 70 SS convertibles. The link has all the info I can get and they would not give me the VIN's. Sorry for the short notice I just saw this in yesterdays newspaper. http://www.ksaa1.com/inspections.htm From: Keith Anderson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 29, Issue 30 Date: Tue, 13 Dec 2005 09:32:26 -0600 No doubt blowers are sexy. But, a properly sized turbo will kick the snot out of a blower any day of the week. And they can be sexy too. You just have to open your hood. :) Keith From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2005 20:24:19 -0600 Come on Clint..Don't be a wimp...Get an BDS 8-71...It'll really crank out some real power!(LOL) -Original Message- From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 2:50 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway Yeah,I wish I had those kinds of problems. Am beginning to think a turbo is the way to go on my car's 355. It probably wouldn't cost any more than a new 383 crate motor and would be a heckuva lot faster. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm From: Gene Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelles for auction Date: Tue, 13 Dec 2005 10:49:20 -0500 Chevelles for auctionAsset forfeiture at it's finest! - Original Message - From: Shipping To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 10:12 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Chevelles for auction They are not mine and I have been told the reserve is 15K per. They are both listed as 70 SS convertibles. The link has all the info I can get and they would not give me the VIN's. Sorry for the short notice I just saw this in yesterdays newspaper. http://www.ksaa1.com/inspections.htm ___ Chevelle-list mailing list Chevelle-list@chevelles.net http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net _ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway
well,if I put the money into my car equal to the cost of the porsche,,I'd be running 9's to 10's also! - Original Message - From: Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 1:43 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway I have two time slips with the Porsche runs 1.62, 4.585, 7.105, 99.274, .000 (mine 13.111), 10.979, 127 mph 1,66, 4.604, 7.034, 102.398, 000 (11.834), 10.817, 130 mph Keith Anderson wrote: Not running right and still runs 10's?!?!?! 800 hp? That's doable with mods but NOT from the factory. I just read an article in the Dec. issue of Road Track about the 650 hp Ruf Porsche Rt 12 (Porsche 911 Turbo) which ran an 11 flat at 133.9 mph. Given that, I would have to assume the Porsche you ran against had at least 650 hp and if it was running bad like the owner said, 800 probably isn't a stretch. Put a big enough turbo or turbos on any engine and you can get 800 hp. 4 banger Mitsubishi AWD cars running 10's seems to be a common occurance nowadays. The article: http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=12article_id=2973 Keith From: Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 09:40:39 -0800 BFG says 20 psi is the Minimum - I will try that on the next trip. One of the amazing cars I raced a couple of time was a newish turbo Porsche. Not sure what the model was but the car was running the 10s. Wow! The owner said the car was supposed to make 800 hp (BS?) but wasn't running right. Is anyone familar with those cars? Larry -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.13.13/197 - Release Date: 12/9/2005
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway
I agree,,,if all you wanted to do was go fast in a straight line. TT Porsches are a little more versatile than that,however. G Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: James Strunk [EMAIL PROTECTED] well,if I put the money into my car equal to the cost of the porsche,,I'd be running 9's to 10's also! - Original Message - From: Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have two time slips with the Porsche runs 1.62, 4.585, 7.105, 99.274, .000 (mine 13.111), 10.979, 127 mph 1,66, 4.604, 7.034, 102.398, 000 (11.834), 10.817, 130 mph Keith Anderson wrote: Not running right and still runs 10's?!?!?! 800 hp? That's doable with mods but NOT from the factory. I just read an article in the Dec. issue of Road Track about the 650 hp Ruf Porsche Rt 12 (Porsche 911 Turbo) which ran an 11 flat at 133.9 mph. Given that, I would have to assume the Porsche you ran against had at least 650 hp and if it was running bad like the owner said, 800 probably isn't a stretch. Put a big enough turbo or turbos on any engine and you can get 800 hp. 4 banger Mitsubishi AWD cars running 10's seems to be a common occurance nowadays. The article: http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=12article_id=2973 Keith From: Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] BFG says 20 psi is the Minimum - I will try that on the next trip. One of the amazing cars I raced a couple of time was a newish turbo Porsche. Not sure what the model was but the car was running the 10s. Wow! The owner said the car was supposed to make 800 hp (BS?) but wasn't running right. Is anyone familar with those cars? Larry
RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway
Come on Clint..Don't be a wimp...Get an BDS 8-71...It'll really crank out some real power!(LOL) -Original Message- From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 2:50 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway Yeah,I wish I had those kinds of problems. Am beginning to think a turbo is the way to go on my car's 355. It probably wouldn't cost any more than a new 383 crate motor and would be a heckuva lot faster. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Keith Anderson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Not running right and still runs 10's?!?!?! 800 hp? That's doable with mods but NOT from the factory. I just read an article in the Dec. issue of Road Track about the 650 hp Ruf Porsche Rt 12 (Porsche 911 Turbo) which ran an 11 flat at 133.9 mph. Given that, I would have to assume the Porsche you ran against had at least 650 hp and if it was running bad like the owner said, 800 probably isn't a stretch. Put a big enough turbo or turbos on any engine and you can get 800 hp. 4 banger Mitsubishi AWD cars running 10's seems to be a common occurance nowadays. The article: http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=12article_id=2973 Keith From: Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 09:40:39 -0800 BFG says 20 psi is the Minimum - I will try that on the next trip. One of the amazing cars I raced a couple of time was a newish turbo Porsche. Not sure what the model was but the car was running the 10s. Wow! The owner said the car was supposed to make 800 hp (BS?) but wasn't running right. Is anyone familar with those cars? Larry
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway
Yeah,I wish I had those kinds of problems. Am beginning to think a turbo is the way to go on my car's 355. It probably wouldn't cost any more than a new 383 crate motor and would be a heckuva lot faster. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Keith Anderson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Not running right and still runs 10's?!?!?! 800 hp? That's doable with mods but NOT from the factory. I just read an article in the Dec. issue of Road Track about the 650 hp Ruf Porsche Rt 12 (Porsche 911 Turbo) which ran an 11 flat at 133.9 mph. Given that, I would have to assume the Porsche you ran against had at least 650 hp and if it was running bad like the owner said, 800 probably isn't a stretch. Put a big enough turbo or turbos on any engine and you can get 800 hp. 4 banger Mitsubishi AWD cars running 10's seems to be a common occurance nowadays. The article: http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=12article_id=2973 Keith From: Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 09:40:39 -0800 BFG says 20 psi is the Minimum - I will try that on the next trip. One of the amazing cars I raced a couple of time was a newish turbo Porsche. Not sure what the model was but the car was running the 10s. Wow! The owner said the car was supposed to make 800 hp (BS?) but wasn't running right. Is anyone familar with those cars? Larry
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway
I have two time slips with the Porsche runs 1.62, 4.585, 7.105, 99.274, .000 (mine 13.111), 10.979, 127 mph 1,66, 4.604, 7.034, 102.398, 000 (11.834), 10.817, 130 mph Keith Anderson wrote: Not running right and still runs 10's?!?!?! 800 hp? That's doable with mods but NOT from the factory. I just read an article in the Dec. issue of Road Track about the 650 hp Ruf Porsche Rt 12 (Porsche 911 Turbo) which ran an 11 flat at 133.9 mph. Given that, I would have to assume the Porsche you ran against had at least 650 hp and if it was running bad like the owner said, 800 probably isn't a stretch. Put a big enough turbo or turbos on any engine and you can get 800 hp. 4 banger Mitsubishi AWD cars running 10's seems to be a common occurance nowadays. The article: http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=12article_id=2973 Keith From: Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 09:40:39 -0800 BFG says 20 psi is the Minimum - I will try that on the next trip. One of the amazing cars I raced a couple of time was a newish turbo Porsche. Not sure what the model was but the car was running the 10s. Wow! The owner said the car was supposed to make 800 hp (BS?) but wasn't running right. Is anyone familar with those cars? Larry -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.13.13/197 - Release Date: 12/9/2005
Re: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle Security
My dad showed me that trick with a 68 Biscayne and a pair of vice grips, it was one of those lessons on what to do If, just like driving home If you lose your clutch. as a 15 year old I thought it was pretty cool, But yeah it would suck if someone stole your car that way. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 12:34 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle Security I can tell you the Grant "No Wheel, No Steal" is junk. Thieves stole my Malibu with no steering wheel. They used big pliers to turn the hub.Chrishttp://personalpages.bellsouth.net/c/l/clindh/webpage.htm How do you know what they used ? :-p Larry (Z)
RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: 12 Bolt axle bearings
So...you have a 9 rear end under your car? -Original Message- From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 6:30 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Re: 12 Bolt axle bearings I'm running Baer's 12 Touring rear kit on my Fab 9. My Moser axles have tapered rollers. Ball bearings are for dragracing. However,I do know some running ball bearings on protourers. If I remember correctly,tapered rollers took a little research to find for a Ford 9. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] Clint, Do you have Disc brakes on the rear of your Elky? Did you have to modify your 12 bolt? They tell me I need to install a C clip eliminator kit? There are two different bearing choices. One is tapered and the other is standard heavy duty ball bearings. Global says use the Roller bearings. Moser said most go for the ball bearings 70 Vs 30%. Pyle Bros says the tapered bearing are for those that take corners or cruising, the ball bearings are for drag applications. I'm confused. My friend mechanic says go for the ball bearings. He said you won't drive the car that much any way??? What to do!? Dan
RE: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle Security
Sorry about your Malibu, I read you tale of the missing, and the mess up on you homepage. Talk about failure to communicate ARGHHH. But as with any anti theft device.. it's just a deterant. But as you experienced. They came prepared to overcome that type of device... The missing wheel IMO falls into the visual category . akin to the Club and the flashing Led light security armed alert. Being a Belt Suspender type. I like both a visual and a disablement deterrent. Any type of entry alarm and a form of disability.. ( electric fuel pump with a hidden line switch or with an HEI ignition, a removable link in a in line fuse holder hidden under the dash easy assessable location. Rule is if they want your car know where you live 8 out of 10 times they will get it. Thieves got some Big ones.. two years ago at Spring Carlisle the big Co for model A parts had their Model A pick up with wood side rail logo stolen from inside the grounds on a Friday afternoon.. with 1,000's of people around. Can you imanage what would have happened to them if they were spotted, How do you spell out of control mob ? From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle Security Date: Tue, 6 Dec 2005 8:51:34 -0500 I can tell you the Grant No Wheel, No Steal is junk. Thieves stole my Malibu with no steering wheel. They used big pliers to turn the hub. Chris http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/c/l/clindh/webpage.htm _ Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: 12 Bolt axle bearings
Yes,that's what a Fab 9 is,,a custom sheet metal rear built by Chris Alston Chassisworks to use Ford 9 pumpkins. Mine's the fully braced model. The nice thing about these is the cost really is about the same as any other replacement rear. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] So...you have a 9 rear end under your car? -Original Message- From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm running Baer's 12 Touring rear kit on my Fab 9. My Moser axles have tapered rollers. Ball bearings are for dragracing. However,I do know some running ball bearings on protourers. If I remember correctly,tapered rollers took a little research to find for a Ford 9. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] Clint, Do you have Disc brakes on the rear of your Elky? Did you have to modify your 12 bolt? They tell me I need to install a C clip eliminator kit? There are two different bearing choices. One is tapered and the other is standard heavy duty ball bearings. Global says use the Roller bearings. Moser said most go for the ball bearings 70 Vs 30%. Pyle Bros says the tapered bearing are for those that take corners or cruising, the ball bearings are for drag applications. I'm confused. My friend mechanic says go for the ball bearings. He said you won't drive the car that much any way??? What to do!? Dan
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: 12 Bolt axle bearings
Dan,I would try to avoid installing C-clip Eliminators,if possible. A better solution would be to weld Ford housing ends on and use non C-clip axles. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] Clint, Do you have Disc brakes on the rear of your Elky? Did you have to modify your 12 bolt? They tell me I need to install a C clip eliminator kit? There are two different bearing choices. One is tapered and the other is standard heavy duty ball bearings. Global says use the Roller bearings. Moser said most go for the ball bearings 70 Vs 30%. Pyle Bros says the tapered bearing are for those that take corners or cruising, the ball bearings are for drag applications. I'm confused. My friend mechanic says go for the ball bearings. He said you won't drive the car that much any way??? What to do!? Dan
RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: 12 Bolt axle bearings
Actually...that's what I plan to do! Thanks Clint. The only problem is...I had the axle powder coated. Oh well...I guess it can be coated again!! Dan -Original Message- From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 5:28 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: 12 Bolt axle bearings Dan,I would try to avoid installing C-clip Eliminators,if possible. A better solution would be to weld Ford housing ends on and use non C-clip axles. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] Clint, Do you have Disc brakes on the rear of your Elky? Did you have to modify your 12 bolt? They tell me I need to install a C clip eliminator kit? There are two different bearing choices. One is tapered and the other is standard heavy duty ball bearings. Global says use the Roller bearings. Moser said most go for the ball bearings 70 Vs 30%. Pyle Bros says the tapered bearing are for those that take corners or cruising, the ball bearings are for drag applications. I'm confused. My friend mechanic says go for the ball bearings. He said you won't drive the car that much any way??? What to do!? Dan
Re: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle Security
I can tell you the Grant "No Wheel, No Steal" is junk. Thieves stole my Malibu with no steering wheel. They used big pliers to turn the hub.Chrishttp://personalpages.bellsouth.net/c/l/clindh/webpage.htm How do you know what they used ? :-p Larry (Z)
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Ring and Pinion
Thatsounds likea very nice combination,Kerry. Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] On the Malibu, I have a 12 bolt posi with 3.73's coupled to a built 200-4R and a 27" tall tire. Around town I keep it in 3rd, for cruising on the highway, I go to overdrive.With the .68overdrive gear reduction, the 3.73's are reduced to an effective 2.54 ratio. So on the highway @ 70mph, 3rd = 3300rpm, 4th (O/D) = 2200rpm. Is the overdrive worth it? I think so, but you and your wallet will have to decide.
RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: Ring and Pinion
I thought you were talkin' to me at first! I can't believe there's actually someone else on here with my first name! Sarge -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Clint HooperSent: Thursday, December 01, 2005 10:54 AMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Ring and Pinion Thatsounds likea very nice combination,Kerry. Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] On the Malibu, I have a 12 bolt posi with 3.73's coupled to a built 200-4R and a 27" tall tire. Around town I keep it in 3rd, for cruising on the highway, I go to overdrive.With the .68overdrive gear reduction, the 3.73's are reduced to an effective 2.54 ratio. So on the highway @ 70mph, 3rd = 3300rpm, 4th (O/D) = 2200rpm. Is the overdrive worth it? I think so, but you and your wallet will have to decide.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Ring and Pinion
I hope I got his first name right. Something tells me I screwed up. At least I was thinking of you,Sarge. G Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Fruhauf Kerry A SSgt 3 CS/CCO I thought you were talkin' to me at first! I can't believe there's actually someone else on here with my first name! Sarge -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Thatsounds likea very nice combination,Kerry. Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] On the Malibu, I have a 12 bolt posi with 3.73's coupled to a built 200-4R and a 27" tall tire. Around town I keep it in 3rd, for cruising on the highway, I go to overdrive.With the .68overdrive gear reduction, the 3.73's are reduced to an effective 2.54 ratio. So on the highway @ 70mph, 3rd = 3300rpm, 4th (O/D) = 2200rpm. Is the overdrive worth it? I think so, but you and your wallet will have to decide.
RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: Ring and Pinion
Everytime I see a post by him, I think of Kerry Earnhardt. Maybe that's who you were thinking of, too? -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Clint HooperSent: Thursday, December 01, 2005 11:14 AMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Ring and Pinion I hope I got his first name right. Something tells me I screwed up. At least I was thinking of you,Sarge. G Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Fruhauf Kerry A SSgt 3 CS/CCO I thought you were talkin' to me at first! I can't believe there's actually someone else on here with my first name! Sarge -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Thatsounds likea very nice combination,Kerry. Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] On the Malibu, I have a 12 bolt posi with 3.73's coupled to a built 200-4R and a 27" tall tire. Around town I keep it in 3rd, for cruising on the highway, I go to overdrive.With the .68overdrive gear reduction, the 3.73's are reduced to an effective 2.54 ratio. So on the highway @ 70mph, 3rd = 3300rpm, 4th (O/D) = 2200rpm. Is the overdrive worth it? I think so, but you and your wallet will have to decide.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Rear Deck Lid Springs
i have always just had to fight them to get them in they cross in the middle after you get them in but it takes a couple of pry bars and some times a buddie to hope they dont fly loose and hit ya in the mouth ,lol, no nothing easy about them sorry Darin Bailey
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Rear Deck Lid Springs
Don't all 70 chevelles have front rear deck lid springs- believe it was a 1 year feature. Would you believe that I read reread that msg several times trying to figure out what darin was talkin about...duh! Hey my half-timers disease is slowly taking over. Thats my story I'm stickin to it. On 11/17/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: i have always just had to fight them to get them in they cross in the middle after you get them in but it takes a couple of pry bars and some times a buddie to hope they dont fly loose and hit ya in the mouth ,lol, no nothing easy about them sorry Darin Bailey-- Rick Schaefer72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Rear Deck Lid Springs
oh are we back to coils again lol some one has got to let me know
Re: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 28, Issue 32
Cracks on BBC starter mounts are almost always the result of using the wrong bolt. Starter bolts have knurling between the threads and the head that is meant to fit tightly in the block to absorb the torque of the starter. The bolts are different for each starter (auto, stick are different) and may even differ from year to year. If you have an original starter, rebuild it and reuse it and use the exact correct length and grade bolt. In other words, use the original bolts... Also, I have heard the bolts are no longer being produced. There are companies out there that claim they have them, but they do not have the correct bolt. The moral of the story is don't throw your old bolts out... - Original Message - From: BILL HINDMAN [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 11:41 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 28, Issue 32 Does anyone have any information concerning mini-starters cracking in the bolt holes on big blocks. Have to use mini's because of headers. Thanks, Bill -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 11:35 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 28, Issue 32 Send Chevelle-list mailing list submissions to Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can reach the person managing the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Chevelle-list digest...
RE: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 28, Issue 4
Thanks Clint! What do you think the largest tire and rim you can put on a 72 with out major mods? -Original Message- From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 7:52 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 28, Issue 4 Nittos are very good tires,,if they build the size you need. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] Does any one have an opinion on going with Faulken or Nitto tires. What's everyone using? Dan Mascheck
Re: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 28, Issue 4
I've seen numerous 70-72 Chevelles and El Caminos out there with 17x11's and 315/35/17's on the rear. Don't remember Falken or Nitto making that size,though. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks Clint! What do you think the largest tire and rim you can put on a 72 with out major mods? -Original Message- From: Clint Hooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Nittos are very good tires,,if they build the size you need. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] Does any one have an opinion on going with Faulken or Nitto tires. What's everyone using? Dan Mascheck
Re: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 28, Issue 4
Nittos are very good tires,,if they build the size you need. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck [EMAIL PROTECTED] Does any one have an opinion on going with Faulken or Nitto tires. What's everyone using? Dan Mascheck
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-arms
This came up before. Check out these pictures of my reinforces lower A-arms: http://epage.com/brad/Chevelle/arm/ Brad Waller Michael Heiser wrote: Not sure about how to reinforce, but the idea of saving some money is sure appealing. __ Mike Heiser 1966 Chevelle SS | 1969 Chevelle Malibu | 1969 El Camino Chevelle El Camino Club of Oregon #254, ACES #6659, TC #2712 From: "Clint Hooper" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-arms Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 20:05:14 -0500 Something you might consider is reinforcing the stock A-arms and using the money you save on something else. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-arms
Thanks! __ Mike Heiser1966 Chevelle SS | 1969 Chevelle Malibu | 1969 El CaminoChevelle El Camino Club of Oregon #254, ACES #6659, TC #2712 From: Brad Waller [EMAIL PROTECTED]Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.netTo: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-armsDate: Mon, 24 Oct 2005 00:57:14 -0700 This came up before. Check out these pictures of my reinforces lower A-arms:http://epage.com/brad/Chevelle/arm/Brad WallerMichael Heiser wrote: Not sure about how to reinforce, but the idea of saving some money is sure appealing. __ Mike Heiser1966 Chevelle SS | 1969 Chevelle Malibu | 1969 El CaminoChevelle El Camino Club of Oregon #254, ACES #6659, TC #2712 From: "Clint Hooper" [EMAIL PROTECTED]Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.netTo: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-armsDate: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 20:05:14 -0500 Something you might consider is reinforcing the stock A-arms and using the money you save on something else. Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm Get MSN Messenger with FREE Video Conversation - the next best thing to being there!
RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-arms
Will do; thanks. __ Mike Heiser1966 Chevelle SS | 1969 Chevelle Malibu | 1969 El CaminoChevelle El Camino Club of Oregon #254, ACES #6659, TC #2712 From: "Clint Hooper" [EMAIL PROTECTED]Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.netTo: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-armsDate: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 22:41:26 -0500 Do a search on Team Chevelle. Someone was selling a gusset kit for A-arms. Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Michael Heiser Not sure about how to reinforce, but the idea of saving some money is sure appealing. Mike Heiser1966 Chevelle SS | 1969 Chevelle Malibu | 1969 El CaminoChevelle El Camino Club of Oregon #254, ACES #6659, TC #2712 Get MSN Messenger with FREE Video Conversation - the next best thing to being there!
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-arms
Not sure about how to reinforce, but the idea of saving some money is sure appealing. __ Mike Heiser1966 Chevelle SS | 1969 Chevelle Malibu | 1969 El CaminoChevelle El Camino Club of Oregon #254, ACES #6659, TC #2712 From: "Clint Hooper" [EMAIL PROTECTED]Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.netTo: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-armsDate: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 20:05:14 -0500 Something you might consider is reinforcing the stock A-arms and using the money you save on something else. Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Michael Heiser Stocks are in good shape, aside from the obvious. Bushings etc. No cracks or bends. The frame was not so lucky--somebody in its deep dark past had overloaded and/or jumped it--both rearupper spring mounts were cracked, one split in two. Am building a long distance haulerfor comfort reliability. When done will do the Power Tour. Is a "mutt"--not numbers matching--so I feel free to make it totally mine. Have some fun ideas; we'll see how far the money, time, and skills get me. I want to build this thing myself, as I've beendoing with the '66you guys have been helping with. Oh, I had a pro frame guy fix the spring mounts and tweak the frame to spec--knew this stuffwas off limits for a beginner/intermediate. __ Mike Heiser1966 Chevelle SS | 1969 Chevelle Malibu | 1969 El CaminoChevelle El Camino Club of Oregon #254, ACES #6659, TC #2712 From: "Clint Hooper" [EMAIL PROTECTED]Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.netTo: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-armsDate: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 22:55:05 -0500 What is the intended use for your El Camino? What kind of shape are your stock A-arms in? Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Michael Heiser Thanks everybody; great input for my upcoming Elky build. Frame off on that one; once the frame is back from powder coating and the long block back from the machine shop I'm into the front suspension. I know I use this word a lot, but it's true: this list is awesome and I really appreciate (and learn from)everyone's openness and contributions. __ Mike Heiser1966 Chevelle SS | 1969 Chevelle Malibu | 1969 El CaminoChevelle El Camino Club of Oregon #254, ACES #6659, TC #2712 From: "Clint Hooper" [EMAIL PROTECTED]Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.netTo: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-armsDate: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 19:13:07 -0500 I paid quite a bit more for my GW arms back in 2003 than what they are selling for now. Ever compared the competition side by side? I have. The only other A-arms that are as heavily constructed as the GW units are the new Strong Arms from Air Ride Technologies. Pole Position, Fatman Fabrications,and others are flimsy in comparison. I'm very leery of oval track parts on a heavier,pure street car and their solid bushingsare notsomething I want on my daily driver,either. You are right in that GW stuff is expensive and will certainly get no argument from me on that point. However,who makes an equivalent A-arm for less money? Having seen the damage that a failed A-arm can do,I want parts that are strong enough to survive the abuse a daily driven car will give them. Suspension and brake parts are not places to scrimp,IMO. Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have tried to stay away from GW for one reason. Price. The price they charge for their tubulars is close to twice of what they were charging a few years ago. They are charging not what their product is worth, but making as much profits as the market will bear. As long as guys keep on buying from GW, the price will stay high and maybe go higher. Others have proven they can make and sellthe arms cheaper, and they appear to be just as good in quality, bushings not included. While a few others also went up in price when they realized that guys were paying the higher prices, it opened up the market for opportunity for smaller outfits to come in and take a part of the market. In my opinion, since they DID charge a lot less in the recent past for these, and raised prices drastically, I call that gouging for the sake of gouging. I won't be one of the guys paying it to them. I'll go to the competition first to help keep them in bu
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-arms
Stocks are in good shape, aside from the obvious. Bushings etc. No cracks or bends. The frame was not so lucky--somebody in its deep dark past had overloaded and/or jumped it--both rearupper spring mounts were cracked, one split in two. Am building a long distance haulerfor comfort reliability. When done will do the Power Tour. Is a "mutt"--not numbers matching--so I feel free to make it totally mine. Have some fun ideas; we'll see how far the money, time, and skills get me. I want to build this thing myself, as I've beendoing with the '66you guys have been helping with. Oh, I had a pro frame guy fix the spring mounts and tweak the frame to spec--knew this stuffwas off limits for a beginner/intermediate. __ Mike Heiser1966 Chevelle SS | 1969 Chevelle Malibu | 1969 El CaminoChevelle El Camino Club of Oregon #254, ACES #6659, TC #2712 From: "Clint Hooper" [EMAIL PROTECTED]Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.netTo: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-armsDate: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 22:55:05 -0500 What is the intended use for your El Camino? What kind of shape are your stock A-arms in? Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Michael Heiser Thanks everybody; great input for my upcoming Elky build. Frame off on that one; once the frame is back from powder coating and the long block back from the machine shop I'm into the front suspension. I know I use this word a lot, but it's true: this list is awesome and I really appreciate (and learn from)everyone's openness and contributions. __ Mike Heiser1966 Chevelle SS | 1969 Chevelle Malibu | 1969 El CaminoChevelle El Camino Club of Oregon #254, ACES #6659, TC #2712 From: "Clint Hooper" [EMAIL PROTECTED]Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.netTo: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-armsDate: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 19:13:07 -0500 I paid quite a bit more for my GW arms back in 2003 than what they are selling for now. Ever compared the competition side by side? I have. The only other A-arms that are as heavily constructed as the GW units are the new Strong Arms from Air Ride Technologies. Pole Position, Fatman Fabrications,and others are flimsy in comparison. I'm very leery of oval track parts on a heavier,pure street car and their solid bushingsare notsomething I want on my daily driver,either. You are right in that GW stuff is expensive and will certainly get no argument from me on that point. However,who makes an equivalent A-arm for less money? Having seen the damage that a failed A-arm can do,I want parts that are strong enough to survive the abuse a daily driven car will give them. Suspension and brake parts are not places to scrimp,IMO. Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have tried to stay away from GW for one reason. Price. The price they charge for their tubulars is close to twice of what they were charging a few years ago. They are charging not what their product is worth, but making as much profits as the market will bear. As long as guys keep on buying from GW, the price will stay high and maybe go higher. Others have proven they can make and sellthe arms cheaper, and they appear to be just as good in quality, bushings not included. While a few others also went up in price when they realized that guys were paying the higher prices, it opened up the market for opportunity for smaller outfits to come in and take a part of the market. In my opinion, since they DID charge a lot less in the recent past for these, and raised prices drastically, I call that gouging for the sake of gouging. I won't be one of the guys paying it to them. I'll go to the competition first to help keep them in business. I'd buy the circle track arms before I went to GW. But that's just me. It's a free country, you can buy what you want and pay what you want, or make your own. Steve - Original Message - From: Trooper I'm considering putting upper and lower tubular A-arms on my 69 Chevelle. Was wandering what brand you guys that have them are running. Also some reccommendations on the best products and best priced products out there. Trooper MSN Premium brings together everything you need on the Internet in 1 place, including PC security! MSN Premium brings together everything you need on the Internet in 1 place, including PC security!
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-arms
Something you might consider is reinforcing the
stock A-arms and using the money you save on something else.
Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001
H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
- Original Message -
From:
Michael
Heiser
Stocks are in good shape, aside from the obvious. Bushings etc. No cracks
or bends. The frame was not so lucky--somebody in its deep dark past had
overloaded and/or jumped it--both rearupper spring mounts were cracked,
one split in two.
Am building a long distance haulerfor comfort reliability. When
done will do the Power Tour. Is a "mutt"--not numbers matching--so I feel free
to make it totally mine. Have some fun ideas; we'll see how far the money,
time, and skills get me. I want to build this thing myself, as I've
beendoing with the '66you guys have been helping with.
Oh, I had a pro frame guy fix the spring mounts and tweak the frame to
spec--knew this stuffwas off limits for a beginner/intermediate.
__ Mike Heiser1966 Chevelle SS | 1969 Chevelle Malibu | 1969 El CaminoChevelle
El Camino Club of Oregon #254, ACES #6659, TC #2712
From: "Clint Hooper" [EMAIL PROTECTED]Reply-To: The
Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.netTo: "The
Chevelle Mailing List" Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject:
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-armsDate: Wed, 19 Oct 2005
22:55:05 -0500
What is the intended use for your El Camino?
What kind of shape are your stock A-arms in?
Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino
ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
- Original Message -
From:
Michael Heiser
Thanks everybody; great input for my upcoming Elky build. Frame off on
that one; once the frame is back from powder coating and the long block
back from the machine shop I'm into the front suspension.
I know I use this word a lot, but it's true: this list is awesome and I
really appreciate (and learn from)everyone's openness and
contributions.
__ Mike
Heiser1966 Chevelle SS | 1969 Chevelle Malibu |
1969 El CaminoChevelle El Camino Club of Oregon #254, ACES
#6659, TC #2712
From: "Clint Hooper" [EMAIL PROTECTED]Reply-To:
The Chevelle Mailing List
Chevelle-list@chevelles.netTo: "The Chevelle Mailing
List" Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: Re:
[Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-armsDate: Wed, 19 Oct 2005
19:13:07 -0500
I paid quite a bit more for my GW arms back in
2003 than what they are selling for now. Ever compared the competition
side by side? I have. The only other A-arms that are as heavily
constructed as the GW units are the new Strong Arms from Air Ride
Technologies. Pole Position, Fatman Fabrications,and others are flimsy
in comparison. I'm very leery of oval track parts on a heavier,pure
street car and their solid bushingsare notsomething I want
on my daily driver,either. You are right in that GW stuff is expensive
and will certainly get no argument from me on that point. However,who
makes an equivalent A-arm for less money? Having seen the damage that a
failed A-arm can do,I want parts that are strong enough to survive the
abuse a daily driven car will give them. Suspension and brake parts are
not places to scrimp,IMO.
Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino
ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
- Original Message -
From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
I have tried to stay away from GW for one reason. Price. The
price they charge for their tubulars is close to twice of what they
were charging a few years ago. They are charging not what their
product is worth, but making as much profits as the market will bear.
As long as guys keep on buying from GW, the price will stay high and
maybe go higher. Others have proven they can make and sellthe
arms cheaper, and they appear to be just as good in quality,
bushings not included.
While a few others also went up in price when they realized that
guys were paying the higher prices, it opened up the market for
opportunity for smaller outfits to come in and take a part of the
market.
In my opinion, since they DID charge a lot less in the
recent past for these, and raised prices drastically, I call
Re: [Chevelle-list] RE: Tubular A-arms
I'm currentlywant to usethe original spindles and original spring style (no coilovers). I'm using BMR's tubular control arms in the back. This will be for a daily driver that I would like to improve it's handling. I want a set that has been time tested and has some serious engineering behind it. Cost is not that important. Steve, I would be interested in the 2" drop spindle pic. Can you send it to me? Trooper - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 4:08 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] RE: Tubular A-arms When you're looking around for them, keep this place as an option: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tubular-control-A-arms-Gm-A-body-Chevelle-up_W0QQitemZ8007469933QQcategoryZ33583QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I haven't bought them yet, but may soon. Do you have the tall spindle upgrade or stock spindles? I have a picture of a new 2" drop spindle that's stock in every other way and is for a 68-72 Chevelle. It's a new product by Heidts and is priced at $299. It was so new at last check their tech support didn't know about it yet. Hopefully they got their act together now. But if you'd like a copy of the picture I took at a major event they were at just say the word. Steve - Original Message - From: Trooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: 10/19/2005 4:29:07 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Tubular A-arms I'm considering putting upper and lower tubular A-arms on my 69 Chevelle. Was wandering what brand you guys that have them are running. Also some reccommendations on the best products and best priced products out there. Trooper
RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-arms
Every time I use price as the main driver for my decision I usually end up regretting it. A quality car needs to have quality parts. All the other stuff either ends up broke or on a table at a swap meet (or ebay).. Ron My '66 http://myweb.cableone.net/cutter169/ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Clint HooperSent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 6:13 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-arms I paid quite a bit more for my GW arms back in 2003 than what they are selling for now. Ever compared the competition side by side? I have. The only other A-arms that are as heavily constructed as the GW units are the new Strong Arms from Air Ride Technologies. Pole Position, Fatman Fabrications,and others are flimsy in comparison. I'm very leery of oval track parts on a heavier,pure street car and their solid bushingsare notsomething I want on my daily driver,either. You are right in that GW stuff is expensive and will certainly get no argument from me on that point. However,who makes an equivalent A-arm for less money? Having seen the damage that a failed A-arm can do,I want parts that are strong enough to survive the abuse a daily driven car will give them. Suspension and brake parts are not places to scrimp,IMO. Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have tried to stay away from GW for one reason. Price. The price they charge for their tubulars is close to twice of what they were charging a few years ago. They are charging not what their product is worth, but making as much profits as the market will bear. As long as guys keep on buying from GW, the price will stay high and maybe go higher. Others have proven they can make and sellthe arms cheaper, and they appear to be just as good in quality, bushings not included. While a few others also went up in price when they realized that guys were paying the higher prices, it opened up the market for opportunity for smaller outfits to come in and take a part of the market. In my opinion, since they DID charge a lot less in the recent past for these, and raised prices drastically, I call that gouging for the sake of gouging. I won't be one of the guys paying it to them. I'll go to the competition first to help keep them in business. I'd buy the circle track arms before I went to GW. But that's just me. It's a free country, you can buy what you want and pay what you want, or make your own. Steve - Original Message - From: Trooper I'm considering putting upper and lower tubular A-arms on my 69 Chevelle. Was wandering what brand you guys that have them are running. Also some reccommendations on the best products and best priced products out there. Trooper
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-arms
That is my thinking. I have found tubular's and rear upper/lowers on ebay at a far less price point and still have equal or better functionality. my 2 cents worth. mike --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have tried to stay away from GW for one reason. Price. The price they charge for their tubulars is close to twice of what they were charging a few years ago. They are charging not what their product is worth, but making as much profits as the market will bear. As long as guys keep on buying from GW, the price will stay high and maybe go higher. Others have proven they can make and sell the arms cheaper, and they appear to be just as good in quality, bushings not included. While a few others also went up in price when they realized that guys were paying the higher prices, it opened up the market for opportunity for smaller outfits to come in and take a part of the market. In my opinion, since they DID charge a lot less in the recent past for these, and raised prices drastically, I call that gouging for the sake of gouging. I won't be one of the guys paying it to them. I'll go to the competition first to help keep them in business. I'd buy the circle track arms before I went to GW. But that's just me. It's a free country, you can buy what you want and pay what you want, or make your own. Steve - Original Message - From: Trooper I'm considering putting upper and lower tubular A-arms on my 69 Chevelle. Was wandering what brand you guys that have them are running. Also some reccommendations on the best products and best priced products out there. Trooper __ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com
RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-arms
I never knew that GW was so expensive. When I bought them, there were two choices: GW or Hotchkis. Both were about the same price, and I visited with each company. I just liked Doug from GW and what he had to say about what they did. That, and the fact that they were the originator, along with the stronger "look" (I can't say which is stronger without doing a computer model) sold me on GW. Since Hotchkis is $150 or so more expensive ($667 for upper arms with poly bushings compared to $499 for the equivalent part), I'm not sure how you can say that GW is gouging. Check out the design and beefy cross shafts that prevent twisting on the GW parts and compare them to the others out there before you decide to save a few bucks. Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes| 275/40/17 Kumho MX From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have tried to stay away from GW for one reason. Price. The price they charge for their tubulars is close to twice of what they were charging a few years ago. They are charging not what their product is worth, but making as much profits as the market will bear. As long as guys keep on buying from GW, the price will stay high and maybe go higher. Others have proven they can make and sellthe arms cheaper, and they appear to be just as good in quality, bushings not included. While a few others also went up in price when they realized that guys were paying the higher prices, it opened up the market for opportunity for smaller outfits to come in and take a part of the market. In my opinion, since they DID charge a lot less in the recent past for these, and raised prices drastically, I call that gouging for the sake of gouging. I won't be one of the guys paying it to them. I'll go to the competition first to help keep them in business. I'd buy the circle track arms before I went to GW. But that's just me. It's a free country, you can buy what you want and pay what you want, or make your own. Steve - Original Message - From: Trooper I'm considering putting upper and lower tubular A-arms on my 69 Chevelle. Was wandering what brand you guys that have them are running. Also some reccommendations on the best products and best priced products out there. Trooper
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-arms
I paid quite a bit more for my GW arms back in 2003 than what they are selling for now. Ever compared the competition side by side? I have. The only other A-arms that are as heavily constructed as the GW units are the new Strong Arms from Air Ride Technologies. Pole Position, Fatman Fabrications,and others are flimsy in comparison. I'm very leery of oval track parts on a heavier,pure street car and their solid bushingsare notsomething I want on my daily driver,either. You are right in that GW stuff is expensive and will certainly get no argument from me on that point. However,who makes an equivalent A-arm for less money? Having seen the damage that a failed A-arm can do,I want parts that are strong enough to survive the abuse a daily driven car will give them. Suspension and brake parts are not places to scrimp,IMO. Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have tried to stay away from GW for one reason. Price. The price they charge for their tubulars is close to twice of what they were charging a few years ago. They are charging not what their product is worth, but making as much profits as the market will bear. As long as guys keep on buying from GW, the price will stay high and maybe go higher. Others have proven they can make and sellthe arms cheaper, and they appear to be just as good in quality, bushings not included. While a few others also went up in price when they realized that guys were paying the higher prices, it opened up the market for opportunity for smaller outfits to come in and take a part of the market. In my opinion, since they DID charge a lot less in the recent past for these, and raised prices drastically, I call that gouging for the sake of gouging. I won't be one of the guys paying it to them. I'll go to the competition first to help keep them in business. I'd buy the circle track arms before I went to GW. But that's just me. It's a free country, you can buy what you want and pay what you want, or make your own. Steve - Original Message - From: Trooper I'm considering putting upper and lower tubular A-arms on my 69 Chevelle. Was wandering what brand you guys that have them are running. Also some reccommendations on the best products and best priced products out there. Trooper
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-arms
What is the intended use for your El Camino? What
kind of shape are your stock A-arms in?
Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001
H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
- Original Message -
From:
Michael
Heiser
Thanks everybody; great input for my upcoming Elky build. Frame off on that
one; once the frame is back from powder coating and the long block back from
the machine shop I'm into the front suspension.
I know I use this word a lot, but it's true: this list is awesome and I
really appreciate (and learn from)everyone's openness and
contributions.
__ Mike Heiser1966 Chevelle SS | 1969 Chevelle Malibu | 1969 El CaminoChevelle
El Camino Club of Oregon #254, ACES #6659, TC #2712
From: "Clint Hooper" [EMAIL PROTECTED]Reply-To: The
Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.netTo: "The
Chevelle Mailing List" Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject:
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-armsDate: Wed, 19 Oct 2005
19:13:07 -0500
I paid quite a bit more for my GW arms back in 2003
than what they are selling for now. Ever compared the competition side by
side? I have. The only other A-arms that are as heavily constructed as the
GW units are the new Strong Arms from Air Ride Technologies. Pole Position,
Fatman Fabrications,and others are flimsy in comparison. I'm very leery of
oval track parts on a heavier,pure street car and their solid
bushingsare notsomething I want on my daily driver,either. You
are right in that GW stuff is expensive and will certainly get no argument
from me on that point. However,who makes an equivalent A-arm for less money?
Having seen the damage that a failed A-arm can do,I want parts that are
strong enough to survive the abuse a daily driven car will give them.
Suspension and brake parts are not places to scrimp,IMO.
Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino
ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
- Original Message -
From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
I have tried to stay away from GW for one reason. Price. The price
they charge for their tubulars is close to twice of what they were
charging a few years ago. They are charging not what their product
is worth, but making as much profits as the market will bear. As long as
guys keep on buying from GW, the price will stay high and maybe go higher.
Others have proven they can make and sellthe arms cheaper, and
they appear to be just as good in quality, bushings not included.
While a few others also went up in price when they realized that guys
were paying the higher prices, it opened up the market for opportunity for
smaller outfits to come in and take a part of the market.
In my opinion, since they DID charge a lot less in the recent
past for these, and raised prices drastically, I call that gouging for the
sake of gouging. I won't be one of the guys paying it to them. I'll go to
the competition first to help keep them in business.
I'd buy the circle track arms before I went to GW. But that's just
me. It's a free country, you can buy what you want and pay what you want,
or make your own.
Steve
- Original Message -
From:
Trooper
I'm considering putting upper and lower
tubular A-arms on my 69 Chevelle. Was wandering what brand you guys
that have them are running. Also some reccommendations on the best
products and best priced products out there.
Trooper
MSN Premium
brings together everything you need on the Internet in 1 place, including PC
security!
Re: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 27, Issue 44
Keith, Very nice ride; great story. It's nice to be able to hold on to a vehicle for as long as you and I have; a whole lot of history. Rich -Original Message- From: Keith Anderson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Oct 17, 2005 9:24 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 27, Issue 44 Thanks everyone for the warm welcome! Mike, You can read the story of my El Camino here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/703372 Keith -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Michael Heiser Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 9:28 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Welcome to New Guy Welcome Keith! Can't wait to hear more 'bout the Elky. __ Mike Heiser 1966 Chevelle SS | 1969 Chevelle Malibu | 1969 El Camino Chevelle El Camino Club of Oregon #254, ACES #6659, TC #2712 From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Welcome to New Guy Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 21:38:25 -0500 You will like this bunch,Keith. I've been on this List for many years and it's kinda become part of my daily life.. Gang,,Keith has one of the baddest El Caminos on the planet. Please join me in welcoming him to our group. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
RE: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 27, Issue 44
All I have to say is DAMN! Very cool ride! Ron My '66 http://myweb.cableone.net/cutter169/ -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Keith Anderson Sent: Monday, October 17, 2005 7:24 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 27, Issue 44 Thanks everyone for the warm welcome! Mike, You can read the story of my El Camino here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/703372 Keith -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Michael Heiser Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 9:28 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Welcome to New Guy Welcome Keith! Can't wait to hear more 'bout the Elky. __ Mike Heiser 1966 Chevelle SS | 1969 Chevelle Malibu | 1969 El Camino Chevelle El Camino Club of Oregon #254, ACES #6659, TC #2712 From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Welcome to New Guy Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 21:38:25 -0500 You will like this bunch,Keith. I've been on this List for many years and it's kinda become part of my daily life.. Gang,,Keith has one of the baddest El Caminos on the planet. Please join me in welcoming him to our group. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: s-hooks
Looks like there is not much involved in just making one.
RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: s-hooks
Do you have Mostly Chevelles web site? From: jim [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 4:28 PM To: Chevelle Forum Subject: [Chevelle-list] Re: s-hooks - Original Message - From: jim To: Chevelle list forum Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 6:25 AM Subject: s-hooks I know this is a thread we already passed , but just in case. re; John Nasta , if your still looking for those parking brake clips and S-hooks try Mostly Chevelles (413) 862-0061 . I was browsing their catalog for a good used 12 bolt posi (any body in the N-east?) and came across the parts I believe you were looking for. Jimmy.C
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: s-hooks
Just so you guys know, True-Connections sells all these brake hooks too. www.true-connections.com 1-800-600-4144
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: s-hooks
I don't think they have one. The catalog only has the phone# and the address. Larry Connie Patten 20 Blandford stage road, Russel,MA,01071 - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 7:41 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: s-hooks Do you have Mostly Chevelles web site? From: jim [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 4:28 PMTo: Chevelle ForumSubject: [Chevelle-list] Re: s-hooks - Original Message - From: jim To: Chevelle list forum Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 6:25 AM Subject: s-hooks I know this is a thread we already passed , but just in case. re; John Nasta , if your still looking for those parking brake clips and S-hooks try "Mostly Chevelles" (413) 862-0061 . I was browsing their catalog for a good used 12 bolt posi (any body in the N-east?) and came across the parts I believe you were looking for. Jimmy.C
RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: s-hooks
Thanks. I was actually not following the thread until just now I realized that it might be about those hooks I was talking about needing. I plan to make my own. I still need a new intermediate cable though. John Nasta - Original Message - From: jim To: Chevelle list forum Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 6:25 AM Subject: s-hooks I know this is a thread we already passed , but just in case. re; John Nasta , if your still looking for those parking brake clips and S-hooks try Mostly Chevelles (413) 862-0061 . I was browsing their catalog for a good used 12 bolt posi (any body in the N-east?) and came across the parts I believe you were looking for. Jimmy.C
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: s-hooks
Ground up has 'em to check their catalog. - Original Message - From: jim To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 5:41 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: s-hooks I don't think they have one. The catalog only has the phone# and the address. Larry Connie Patten 20 Blandford stage road, Russel,MA,01071 - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 7:41 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: s-hooks Do you have Mostly Chevelles web site? From: jim [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 4:28 PMTo: Chevelle ForumSubject: [Chevelle-list] Re: s-hooks - Original Message - From: jim To: Chevelle list forum Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 6:25 AM Subject: s-hooks I know this is a thread we already passed , but just in case. re; John Nasta , if your still looking for those parking brake clips and S-hooks try "Mostly Chevelles" (413) 862-0061 . I was browsing their catalog for a good used 12 bolt posi (any body in the N-east?) and came across the parts I believe you were looking for. Jimmy.C
RE: [Chevelle-list] RE: Looking for a 57 Chev Conv
There's a kit (I think its from C.A.R.S.) for converting a four door into a convertible. Pretty cool. I think you have to move the B-pillar (i.e. gotta know what youre doing). -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Alex LaRue Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 4:27 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] RE: Looking for a 57 Chev Conv My local resto shop is looking for a buildable 57 Chev convertible. Anybody know of one that can be had? Thanks. Alex LaRue LaRue Insurance Personal Business Insurance Collector Car Insurance Life Insurance P O Box 119 Hodgenville, KY 42748 800-303-3518 Fax 270-358-8978 Visit us online at www.LaRueInsurance.net
RE: [Chevelle-list] RE: Looking for a 57 Chev Conv
Thanks for the tip John, I will pass it on. Alex LaRueLaRue Insurance Personal Business Insurance Collector Car Insurance Life InsuranceP O Box 119Hodgenville, KY 42748800-303-3518 Fax 270-358-8978Visit us online at www.LaRueInsurance.netJoin President Bush and a host of others here in Hodgenville on February 12th, 2008 to kickoff the two year Lincoln Bicentennial Celebration!!! -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of John NastaSent: Friday, October 07, 2005 4:35 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: RE: [Chevelle-list] RE: Looking for a 57 Chev Conv There's a kit (I think its from C.A.R.S.) for converting a four door into a convertible. Pretty cool. I think you have to move the B-pillar (i.e. gotta know what youre doing). -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Alex LaRueSent: Friday, October 07, 2005 4:27 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] RE: Looking for a 57 Chev Conv My local resto shop is looking for a buildable 57 Chev convertible. Anybody know of one that can be had? Thanks. Alex LaRueLaRue Insurance Personal Business Insurance Collector Car Insurance Life InsuranceP O Box 119Hodgenville, KY 42748800-303-3518 Fax 270-358-8978Visit us online at www.LaRueInsurance.net
Re: [Chevelle-list] RE: Looking for a 57 Chev Conv
I live close to the Vancouver, Wa , hate to say it, "junk yard", but will look forwhat you seek.Larry Z.do you remember seeing one in there? Kelly-Original Message-From: Alex LaRue [EMAIL PROTECTED]To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSent: Fri, 7 Oct 2005 16:27:21 -0400Subject: [Chevelle-list] RE: Looking for a 57 Chev Conv My local resto shop is looking for a buildable 57 Chev convertible. Anybody know of one that can be had? Thanks. Alex LaRueLaRue Insurance Personal Business Insurance Collector Car Insurance Life InsuranceP O Box 119Hodgenville, KY 42748800-303-3518 Fax 270-358-8978Visit us online at www.LaRueInsurance.netJoin President Bush and a host of others here in Hodgenville on February 12th, 2008 to kickoff the two year Lincoln Bicentennial Celebration!!! -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Larry ShouseSent: Friday, October 07, 2005 3:47 PMTo: Chevelle ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] My 396 Build Guys (and gals), My machine shop now has my block, crank and heads to do their thing. I hope to have it all back within 2 weeks.They spec'ed out the following components for me: TRW-L2242F30 SPEED-PRO POWER FORGED PISTONS MOLLY RINGS _ CANT READ P/N COMP CAMS CCA-11-430-8 MAGNUM RETRO-FIT HYD. ROLLER CAMSHAFT.566 LIFT/280 DURATION COMP CAMS CCA-1320-16 PRO MAGNUM ROLLER ROCKERS COMP CAMS CCA-854-16 HIGH ENERGY HYDROLIC ROLLER LIFTERS COMP CAMS CCA-924-16 VALVE SPRINGS - DUAL COMP CAMS CCA-7110 BILLET TIMING SET - DOUBLE ROLLER COMP CAMS CCA-7934-16 HI-TECH 3/8 IN PUSHRODS All ARP head bolts, rocker studsand main studs, Felpro gaskets, etc. They CC'ed my heads, and they came in at 111cc's. With the pistons above, I'm looking at roughly 10.5:1 comp. ratio. Block is getting bored 30 over, align bore checked, my L78 rectangular port heads are getting the complete workover, rods getting resized, everything balanced. I went to Summit to compare pricing, and I was surprised that the prices I was quoted from these guys are the same or lower than Summit pricing. I figured a local shop would charge more... I still need to decide on an intake and carb. As I have been out of muscle car building since the late '70's, I welcome your comments. Larry
RE: [Chevelle-list] RE: Looking for a 57 Chev Conv
Alex, not sure if they have a convertible, but there is an old lot in Campbellsville about 1 or 2 blocks off Main Street that had at least 5 or 6 '57s just sitting there. Brian From: Alex LaRue [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED],The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] RE: Looking for a 57 Chev Conv Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2005 16:27:21 -0400 My local resto shop is looking for a buildable 57 Chev convertible. Anybody know of one that can be had? Thanks. Alex LaRue LaRue Insurance Personal Business Insurance Collector Car Insurance Life Insurance P O Box 119 Hodgenville, KY 42748 800-303-3518 Fax 270-358-8978 Visit us online at www.LaRueInsurance.net Join President Bush and a host of others here in Hodgenville on February 12th, 2008 to kickoff the two year Lincoln Bicentennial Celebration!!! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Larry Shouse Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 3:47 PM To: Chevelle List Subject: [Chevelle-list] My 396 Build Guys (and gals), My machine shop now has my block, crank and heads to do their thing. I hope to have it all back within 2 weeks. They spec'ed out the following components for me: TRW-L2242F30 SPEED-PRO POWER FORGED PISTONS MOLLY RINGS _ CANT READ P/N COMP CAMS CCA-11-430-8 MAGNUM RETRO-FIT HYD. ROLLER CAMSHAFT .566 LIFT/280 DURATION COMP CAMS CCA-1320-16 PRO MAGNUM ROLLER ROCKERS COMP CAMS CCA-854-16 HIGH ENERGY HYDROLIC ROLLER LIFTERS COMP CAMS CCA-924-16 VALVE SPRINGS - DUAL COMP CAMS CCA-7110 BILLET TIMING SET - DOUBLE ROLLER COMP CAMS CCA-7934-16 HI-TECH 3/8 IN PUSHRODS All ARP head bolts, rocker studs and main studs, Felpro gaskets, etc. They CC'ed my heads, and they came in at 111cc's. With the pistons above, I'm looking at roughly 10.5:1 comp. ratio. Block is getting bored 30 over, align bore checked, my L78 rectangular port heads are getting the complete workover, rods getting resized, everything balanced. I went to Summit to compare pricing, and I was surprised that the prices I was quoted from these guys are the same or lower than Summit pricing. I figured a local shop would charge more... I still need to decide on an intake and carb. As I have been out of muscle car building since the late '70's, I welcome your comments. Larry _ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
Re: [Chevelle-list] RE: Looking for a 57 Chev Conv
Kelly: Shhh!!! We don't want them to know about "our" secret Chevelle wrecking yard !!! Just kidding ! I looked through their inventory and didn't find any 57 Chevy converts. Classic Auto ( Automotive ) Parts, Car Wrecking: Chevrolet, Pontiac, Buick, More Incidentally my first car was a 57 Chev convert thatI drove home in 1965 .I paid a whopping $110.00 for it and over the next 2 years played with it and tore it apart. Finding a premium 1956 2 door wagon (52000 miles- $250.00)I gave the car to a buddy !!! Stupid is Stupid was!!! Larry (Z)
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: LOOKING FOR A 1966 SPEEDO
C8NDY, I pulled the gauge cluster tonight. I dont have a lot of time during the week with work and school, but I will try to get it packaged this week. What is your address and all that good stuff?? Thanks- -Tim
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts
can you tell me if that applies to the 1972 cars as well ? thanks , Jimmy.C - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 8:43 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts I didn't track all the emails in this chain, but the motor mounts for a BB vs. SB in a '65 are identical in every shape and form. The frame mounts are the exact same height also, but the BB version have a small relief for clearance I suppose, but are completely unnecessary on my 502. I don't know if any other BB's needed this clearance, but I doubt it. So I say stick with the SB stuff. Its all the same. Charles www.65ss.com - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 5:41 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts If you run headers,they will hang a little bit lower. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Ryan Langstraat [EMAIL PROTECTED] Clint would setting the engine lower vs. higher make any foreseeable clearance problems?
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts
I'm pretty sure that it would apply up to 1972,,maybe later. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: jim [EMAIL PROTECTED] can you tell me if that applies to the 1972 cars as well ? thanks , Jimmy.C - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I didn't track all the emails in this chain, but the motor mounts for a BB vs. SB in a '65 are identical in every shape and form. The frame mounts are the exact same height also, but the BB version have a small relief for clearance I suppose, but are completely unnecessary on my 502. I don't know if any other BB's needed this clearance, but I doubt it. So I say stick with the SB stuff. Its all the same. Charles www.65ss.com - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 5:41 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts If you run headers,they will hang a little bit lower. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Ryan Langstraat [EMAIL PROTECTED] Clint would setting the engine lower vs. higher make any foreseeable clearance problems?
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts
I've got a 70 and have been told that they are different. I sure would like to know the answer to this question because using the wrong mounts supposedly changes the driveline angle and creates vibration issues, etc. If anyone has sets of both mounts for 1970-72 (probably the same for 68 and 69, too), let's do a comparo. Craig - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 1:09 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts I'm pretty sure that it would apply up to 1972,,maybe later. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: jim [EMAIL PROTECTED] can you tell me if that applies to the 1972 cars as well ? thanks , Jimmy.C - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I didn't track all the emails in this chain, but the motor mounts for a BB vs. SB in a '65 are identical in every shape and form. The frame mounts are the exact same height also, but the BB version have a small relief for clearance I suppose, but are completely unnecessary on my 502. I don't know if any other BB's needed this clearance, but I doubt it. So I say stick with the SB stuff. Its all the same. Charles www.65ss.com - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 5:41 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts If you run headers,they will hang a little bit lower. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Ryan Langstraat [EMAIL PROTECTED] Clint would setting the engine lower vs. higher make any foreseeable clearance problems?
