date:20130326

Tim,

That's great!  Hope there is room on the mantle for the hardware!

Joel
Sent from my iPad

On Mar 26, 2013, at 9:58 PM, Tim Goodyear  wrote:

Thanks Joel; The Eastern CT 35-3 rating now matches Chesapeake at 123!  The
handicap panel (about 10 people) agreed that we would hold our own upwind
at 117, with the deep keel being the primary advantage, but lower SA/D, D/L
numbers to comparable boats would hurt downwind and particularly reaching.
Per my experience, we do fine on upwind / downwind, less so on reaching
courses.  Oh well, I have a number to live up to this year now.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Mon, Mar 25, 2013 at 2:50 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:

> Tim
>
> http://www.phrfchesbay.org/bin/main.php
>
> Click on 2013 Valid List in the middle of the page.  Jake is at 123.  If I
> can find mine at home I'll send it to you tonight.
>
> Joel
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 25, 2013 at 2:46 PM, Tim Goodyear  wrote:
>
>> Joel please could you point me to the list?  I have my handicap review
>> interrogation tomorrow evening...  and my rating is 117 - I would kill for
>> 123 or 129!
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Tim
>> Mojito
>> C&C 35-3
>> Branford, CT
>>
>>  On Mon, Mar 25, 2013 at 1:24 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:
>>
>>>  The 2013 list is rolling out, and there are now separate ratings for
>>> spinnaker and non-spinnaker.  For the older C&Cs and other non-planing
>>> boats the rating appears to be the same for both.  For planing boats, it
>>> looks like a 6 second difference.  My renewal was late, so I don't know if
>>> mine has changed, but a sistership is at 123.  I was at 129 last year.  I
>>> suspect the difference is my furler.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Joel
>>> 35/3
>>> Annapolis
>>> 301 541 8551
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List PHRF Chesapeake

2013-03-26 Thread Tim Goodyear

Thanks Joel; The Eastern CT 35-3 rating now matches Chesapeake at 123!  The
handicap panel (about 10 people) agreed that we would hold our own upwind
at 117, with the deep keel being the primary advantage, but lower SA/D, D/L
numbers to comparable boats would hurt downwind and particularly reaching.
Per my experience, we do fine on upwind / downwind, less so on reaching
courses.  Oh well, I have a number to live up to this year now.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Mon, Mar 25, 2013 at 2:50 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:

> Tim
>
> http://www.phrfchesbay.org/bin/main.php
>
> Click on 2013 Valid List in the middle of the page.  Jake is at 123.  If I
> can find mine at home I'll send it to you tonight.
>
> Joel
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 25, 2013 at 2:46 PM, Tim Goodyear  wrote:
>
>> Joel please could you point me to the list?  I have my handicap review
>> interrogation tomorrow evening...  and my rating is 117 - I would kill for
>> 123 or 129!
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Tim
>> Mojito
>> C&C 35-3
>> Branford, CT
>>
>>  On Mon, Mar 25, 2013 at 1:24 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:
>>
>>>  The 2013 list is rolling out, and there are now separate ratings for
>>> spinnaker and non-spinnaker.  For the older C&Cs and other non-planing
>>> boats the rating appears to be the same for both.  For planing boats, it
>>> looks like a 6 second difference.  My renewal was late, so I don't know if
>>> mine has changed, but a sistership is at 123.  I was at 129 last year.  I
>>> suspect the difference is my furler.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Joel
>>> 35/3
>>> Annapolis
>>> 301 541 8551
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

2013-03-26 Thread Jake Brodersen

Chuck,

 

I can try moving the sensor.  I think it has plenty of wire still attached to 
it.  The current position easily meets #3 and 4 below.  1 and 2 only matter if 
pitch, roll, and yaw become an issue.  Motoring in flat calm conditions 
shouldn’t bring these into play.  Oh well, one more thing to try this summer.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 6:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots

 

Hi Jake,
Just checked the Raymarine ST4000plus manual on Stu's website under service 
manuals and see they reccommend:

Fluxgate sensor:  
1) to minimize gimbal distrurbances be positioned as near as possible to the 
pitch and roll center of the boat.
2) positioned between .3 to .5 length of boat from aft
3) at least 2.5 ft from navigating compass
4) as far away from the engine as possible, within the above parameters.

It sounds like your sensor may be too far aft and/or maybe too low, allowing 
the engine to break the snsor's ability to sense the earth's magnetic field?  
Can't promise anything but your system may work better if you move the fluxgate 
sensor?  

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

  _  

From: "Jake Brodersen" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2013 9:06:51 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots




Chuck,

 

I located the fluxgate in the aft portion of the quarterberth.  There aren’t 
any other wires running close to it.  Far enough from the engine and control 
panel too.  It doesn’t malfunction often, but when it does you need to be there 
to correct it.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: Sunday, March 24, 2013 10:43 PM
To: coltrek; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots

 

I would suspect the fluxgate compass may be located in a bad place on the boat 
where it is affected by something metallic.  Or maybe the wiring is 
experiencing a surge from a power source?   Besides many hours of sailing and 
motoring a narrow ICW channel, I made at least seven 12 to 13 hour trips using 
our ST 4000plus and never experienced that problem.   Six hours from Atlantic 
City to Cape May and six hours Cape May to Greenwich, NJ.  

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ 


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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

Jake,

Sorry, thought you said it was in the quarterberth.  Any chance the bilge
pump is coming on and screwing it up?  I can't think of anything else close
unless you have an electric head.

Joel
Sent from my iPad

On Mar 26, 2013, at 9:32 PM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:

Joel,



I have my KVH fluxgate at the base of the mast (just to port of it).  The
center of the boat has less motion.  For motoring in flat seas, it
shouldn’t make a difference.



I will try calibrating it again this spring.  All the wiring it clean and
tight, but worth rechecking too.



Jake



*From:* CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
*On Behalf Of *Joel Aronson
*Sent:* Monday, March 25, 2013 9:13 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Autopilots



Jake,



If I remember right the fluxgate is supposed to be mid-ships, but that
might not be the problem.  You can find the manual on the Ray website.
 Mine is in the wet locker on the recommendation of Chef Dave.

Joel

Sent from my iPad


On Mar 25, 2013, at 9:07 PM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:

Chuck,



I located the fluxgate in the aft portion of the quarterberth.  There
aren’t any other wires running close to it.  Far enough from the engine and
control panel too.  It doesn’t malfunction often, but when it does you need
to be there to correct it.



Jake



*From:* CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
*On Behalf Of *Chuck S
*Sent:* Sunday, March 24, 2013 10:43 PM
*To:* coltrek; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Autopilots



I would suspect the fluxgate compass may be located in a bad place on the
boat where it is affected by something metallic.  Or maybe the wiring is
experiencing a surge from a power source?   Besides many hours of sailing
and motoring a narrow ICW channel, I made at least seven 12 to 13 hour
trips using our ST 4000plus and never experienced that problem.   Six hours
from Atlantic City to Cape May and six hours Cape May to Greenwich, NJ.

Chuck
*Resolute*
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

2013-03-26 Thread Jake Brodersen

Joel,

 

I have my KVH fluxgate at the base of the mast (just to port of it).  The
center of the boat has less motion.  For motoring in flat seas, it shouldn't
make a difference.

 

I will try calibrating it again this spring.  All the wiring it clean and
tight, but worth rechecking too.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2013 9:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots

 

Jake,

 

If I remember right the fluxgate is supposed to be mid-ships, but that might
not be the problem.  You can find the manual on the Ray website.  Mine is in
the wet locker on the recommendation of Chef Dave.  

Joel

Sent from my iPad


On Mar 25, 2013, at 9:07 PM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:

Chuck,

 

I located the fluxgate in the aft portion of the quarterberth.  There aren't
any other wires running close to it.  Far enough from the engine and control
panel too.  It doesn't malfunction often, but when it does you need to be
there to correct it.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: Sunday, March 24, 2013 10:43 PM
To: coltrek; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots

 

I would suspect the fluxgate compass may be located in a bad place on the
boat where it is affected by something metallic.  Or maybe the wiring is
experiencing a surge from a power source?   Besides many hours of sailing
and motoring a narrow ICW channel, I made at least seven 12 to 13 hour trips
using our ST 4000plus and never experienced that problem.   Six hours from
Atlantic City to Cape May and six hours Cape May to Greenwich, NJ.  

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ 

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Re: Stus-List Fw: Fw: Fw: (no subject) now AIS

2013-03-26 Thread djhaug...@juno.com

Yea, I really like defender!  I had forgotten to pick up a few things there.  I 
was so overwhelmed at the whole thing.  It was like a small boat show there!

I may try calling there tomorrow and see if I can get the same treatment.



T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network

- Reply message -
From: "Persuasion" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Fw:  Fw:  Fw:  (no subject) now AIS
Date: Tue, Mar 26, 2013 6:23 pm
Fred

I had the Admiral call Defender today and order the Si Tex transceiver and 
splitter.  First time shopping at Defender and it looks like it won’t be 
the last as they even honoured their weekend price (usual disclaimers).

MikeS/V 
PersuasionC&C 37 Keel/CBLong Sault




From: Frederick G Street 
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2013 4:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: Fw: (no subject) now 
AIS

Go 
for the Si-Tex -- it has both versions of NMEA (0183 and 2k), as well as USB 
for 
the laptop.  Their VHF splitter would be a good add-on, as well.

Fred Street -- MinneapolisS/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the 
hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Mar 25, 2013, at 11:45 AM, Persuasion  
wrote:




Dennis

I’m looking for a transponder to interface with my pc charting 
software.  I consider AIS just another tool in my collision avoidance 
toolbox.




From: Dennis C. 
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2013 9:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: (no subject) now AIS


Mike,

Did you want a transponder or just a receiver?  If just a receiver, 
consider a VHF radio with AIS. I have a one interfaced with my chart plotter. 


Also having an AIS can give a false sense of security. Not all vessels 
have AIS.  

Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 25, 2013, at 7:13 AM, "Persuasion"  
wrote:




Thanks to those that responded.  I’m now convinced I want an 
AIS.  The problem is which one.  It will be connected directly to 
the pc chart plotter.  The Raymarine, Garmin and SiTex (new to me) all 
look promising.  

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault





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Stus-List Fw: Fw: Fw: (no subject) now AIS

2013-03-26 Thread Persuasion

Fred

I had the Admiral call Defender today and order the Si Tex transceiver and 
splitter.  First time shopping at Defender and it looks like it won’t be the 
last as they even honoured their weekend price (usual disclaimers).

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Frederick G Street 
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2013 4:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: Fw: (no subject) now AIS

Go for the Si-Tex -- it has both versions of NMEA (0183 and 2k), as well as USB 
for the laptop.  Their VHF splitter would be a good add-on, as well.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 25, 2013, at 11:45 AM, Persuasion  wrote:


  Dennis

  I’m looking for a transponder to interface with my pc charting software.  I 
consider AIS just another tool in my collision avoidance toolbox.

  From: Dennis C. 
  Sent: Monday, March 25, 2013 9:19 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: (no subject) now AIS

  Mike,

  Did you want a transponder or just a receiver?  If just a receiver, consider 
a VHF radio with AIS. I have a one interfaced with my chart plotter. 

  Also having an AIS can give a false sense of security. Not all vessels have 
AIS.  

  Dennis C. 

  Sent from my iPhone

  On Mar 25, 2013, at 7:13 AM, "Persuasion"  wrote:


Thanks to those that responded.  I’m now convinced I want an AIS.  The 
problem is which one.  It will be connected directly to the pc chart plotter.  
The Raymarine, Garmin and SiTex (new to me) all look promising.  

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault





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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

2013-03-26 Thread Chuck S

Hi Jake , 
Just checked the Raymarine ST4000plus manual on Stu's website under service 
manuals and see they reccommend: 

Fluxgate sensor: 
1) to minimize gimbal distrurbances be positioned as near as possible to the 
pitch and roll center of the boat. 
2) positioned between .3 to .5 length of boat from aft 
3) at least 2.5 ft from navigating compass 
4) as far away from the engine as possible, within the above parameters. 

It sounds like your sensor may be too far aft and/or maybe too low, allowing 
the engine to break the snsor's ability to sense the earth's magnetic field? 
Can't promise anything but your system may work better if you move the fluxgate 
sensor? 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Jake Brodersen"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2013 9:06:51 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots 




Chuck, 



I located the fluxgate in the aft portion of the quarterberth. There aren’t any 
other wires running close to it. Far enough from the engine and control panel 
too. It doesn’t malfunction often, but when it does you need to be there to 
correct it. 



Jake 





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S 
Sent: Sunday, March 24, 2013 10:43 PM 
To: coltrek; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots 




I would suspect the fluxgate compass may be located in a bad place on the boat 
where it is affected by something metallic. Or maybe the wiring is experiencing 
a surge from a power source? Besides many hours of sailing and motoring a 
narrow ICW channel, I made at least seven 12 to 13 hour trips using our ST 
4000plus and never experienced that problem. Six hours from Atlantic City to 
Cape May and six hours Cape May to Greenwich, NJ. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
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Stus-List Framed window refurbishment/replacement

2013-03-26 Thread jtsails

Wanted to give everyone an update on my current project, repairing and 
replacing the cabin portlights on my 1976 C&C 38. The boat still had the 
original framed windows and the gaskets were beyond bad! I had a hard time 
deciding whether to refurbish the original windows or just replace them, so I 
went half and half. The forward windows were removed and taken to a local 
automotive glass shop. The owner (a good friend of mine) cut new Plexiglas and 
installed it in the frames using a grey colored polyurethane that is used for 
auto windshields. He did this before talking to me, but it looked nice and he 
swears that it will never leak or fail (we will see). He only charged me 
$20 per window so I couldn't complain too much. I reinstalled these using butyl 
tape, all in all, a very simple job! 
The aft pair of ports were replaced with a pair of Lewmar standard opening 
portlights size 4. These need a cutout that is 3/4" taller and about an inch 
longer than the original. I used a carbide grit blade in my jigsaw to cut the 
new opening, slow but very effective. The cabin top was solid glass, about 3/8" 
tick, with no core. I also had to cut the liner, which was also solid glass. 
There was about 3/8" of space between the cabin top and the liner. I cut both 
layers at the same time with no problems. The new ports were also installed 
using butyl tape. The hardest part of the job was cutting the interior trim 
rings for the correct depth. I used a dremel since I forgot to take my lexan 
trimming scissors. I liked the opening windows so much that I ended up ordering 
two more Lewmars, plus the big Defender sale saved me about $120!
Just about ready to move to the next project, installing a Webasto FCF16000btu 
air-conditioning system. I'm planning to install it in the forward hanging 
locker with ducts running to the v-berth and the main salon. The water intake 
thru-hull will go under the starboard settee with the knot-meter sender, Should 
be an interesting project!

James
Delaney
C&C38 MKII
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Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous Chesapeake

I have received a number of Chesapeake PHRF ratings (over the years - I don't 
Bay race each year) and have never had to haul or take pictures. Your boat is 
standard - they will take your word for the fixed prop. But, it ain't cheap 
anyway.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Della Barba, Joe 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 5:09 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous Chesapeake

  I will have to get the details.

  Just to be clear - I am the PRO for the one design dinghy racing we are 
having. The MRSA (Magothy River Sailing Association) is starting the race over. 
I'll have to get with them and find out for you.  

  Joe Della Barba

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass
  Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 5:03 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous Chesapeake

  Say, Joe, when are the NOR and registration for the CRYC event going to be 
available on line? And what can we do about a PHRF rating for Imzadi?

  I recently applied for an updated NC-PHRF rating, and I could supply that. 
I'm told that NC-PHRF base ratings are generally Chessie PHRF minus 3 based on 
it being more windy here than there. I suppose I could check that out on line. 
I'd like to not need to get a Chessie PHRF for just the one race. The fee up 
there is relatively high, plus the cost of hauling the boat to take pictures 
and measure Imzadi's fixed prop on exposed shaft for the application would be a 
PITA.

  Rick Brass

  Washington, NC

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della 
Barba, Joe
  Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 3:02 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous Chesapeake

  Also note we will have cruising entries for anyone that wants to just show up 
at CRYC without being in the race J

  Joe Della Barba

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Risch
  Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 3:00 PM
  To: CNC CNC
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous

  Can we label the subject for the Rendezvous' NE or Chesapeake Bay please.   
It might get confusing out there.

  Thanks

  David F. Risch
  1981 40-2
  (401) 419-4650 (cell)

--

  From: rickbr...@earthlink.net
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2013 22:46:09 -0400
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous

  I'm already planning a trip to the Bay to do the Baltimore Light race and the 
weekend at Joe Della Barba's club over the last weekend in July.  How about a 
get together in the Inner Harbor (or the Cat's Eye in Fells Point), the race 
the next day (I'm pretty sure we can get the PRO to set up a C&C class), and 
the Rendezvous at Joe's club?  Centrally located in the Bay. Much less 
congestion than Annapolis in October. Lots of marina, anchorage, and hotel 
space in Baltimore and lots of things to do, easy logistics, crewing 
opportunities for those who can't bring a boat to sail, and a nice informal 
venue for a get together after the race.

  Rick Brass

  Washington, NC

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
chef2s...@aol.com
  Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2013 8:49 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous

  Jason and I have talked about and are looking at possibly reestablishing the 
C&C Rendezvous on the Chesapeake. Is there an interest? I have already posted 
this idea on Sailnet where I post mainly and there is some interest.

  The plan would be to look at a date in October and find a site/ marina/ 
anchorage where we could have a get together similar to the one Rob Gallagher 
has organized up in new England with possibly a speaker. We are looking at 
doing it in the Central Chesapeake to insure as many people can attend either 
by boat or car in a weekend as possible. 

  There are plenty of C&C's of many different sizes on the Chesapeake so 
hopefully this sounds like an attractive idea. 

  So what do you think?

  Please respond with ideas, suggestions, whether you would attend etc.

  Dave and Donna

  S/V Haleakula 35- MKIII Hull #76

  MDYC, Rock Creek, MD

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Re: Stus-List Sailing where it's warm (Was more LF38's)

Yes, I was early into that discussion.  Somebody needs to get down there and 
keep Wal in line…   :^)   … or at least help him drink his tequila.

I just did a Google search for "Landfall 39 For Sale Mexico" and didn't come up 
with anything.  The Yachtworld listing is gone.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 26, 2013, at 4:21 PM, Rick Brass  wrote:

> Speaking of sailing where it is warm, Fred, weren’t you one of those who 
> reacted to the suggestion of getting a group together to buy and share the 
> C&C 39 that was for sale in Mazatlan, Mexico?  There was some initial 
> interest and a number of comments, but the discussion seemed to peter out. I 
> was interested enough that I researched a couple of examples of a partner 
> agreements, and someone else suggested a good place to base the boat.
>  
> I wonder if it is still for sale?
>  
> I could get next to having access to a boat in Baja for a month or so each 
> winter.

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Re: Stus-List Sailing where it's warm (Was more LF38's)

Speaking of sailing where it is warm, Fred, weren't you one of those who
reacted to the suggestion of getting a group together to buy and share the
C&C 39 that was for sale in Mazatlan, Mexico?  There was some initial
interest and a number of comments, but the discussion seemed to peter out. I
was interested enough that I researched a couple of examples of a partner
agreements, and someone else suggested a good place to base the boat. 

 

I wonder if it is still for sale?

 

I could get next to having access to a boat in Baja for a month or so each
winter.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
G Street
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 4:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List more LF38's [was Rainproof case for iPad]

 

So many invites, so little time.   :^)   A nice problem to have -- thanks to
all!


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Sail Quote - am I delusional?

2013-03-26 Thread sam . c . salter

Guy I sail with has just ordered his 2nd sail from Evolution Sails out of Toronto. He also got quotes from UK Halsey and North. Both were more expensive than Evolution and he said the service was much better - ie: returned his calls.Evolution are ex Quantum sailmakers.Sam Salter C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta sam :-) 403-617-6280From: Stevan PlavsaSent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 2:42 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Sail Quote - am I delusional?So I sent my sails in for some sail care with North and they phoned me to tell me that they recommend a new headsail, that the old one isn't worth fixing and that if I wanted to fix it it'll still be a terrible sail and $200 to fix. Ok, send me a quote I says.The quote I got, for my C&C 32, is for a plain jane, 140%, dacron, cross cut furling headsail with RF cover and they want $2500 for that. Is this in line with reality? FX sails wants about $1800 for the same thing. Oh, and the $2500 was the north sails direct price, not the "support your local business and get the best support" price.If this is what it costs then ok, but if this seems high to anyone else tell me where else I should be looking! I'm in Toronto.And not to get into sail recommendations .. well ok, let me get into it .. I've heard that radial sails are the way to go for headsails these days, whether racing or not, is that true? That radial sails last longer. I'm looking for a cruising sail that's built to last. Of course, I sail a C&C so I want to get the most performance out of my boat that I can, naturally. Thanks,SteveC&C 32 (renaming)Toronto___This List is provided by the C&C Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Sail Quote - am I delusional?

2013-03-26 Thread Robert Abbott

Steve:

A new 135%, 8.3 oz. Dacron cross cut for the roller furler from Doyle in
2009 cost me $2,400 plus tax. North here wanted $3,200 for the
comparable sail. FYI

Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2013/03/26 5:42 PM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:

So I sent my sails in for some sail care with North and they phoned me to tell
me that they recommend a new headsail, that the old one isn't worth fixing and
that if I wanted to fix it it'll still be a terrible sail and $200 to fix.
Ok, send me a quote I says.

The quote I got, for my C&C 32, is for a plain jane, 140%, dacron, cross cut furling
headsail with RF cover and they want $2500 for that. Is this in line with reality? FX sails
wants about $1800 for the same thing. Oh, and the $2500 was the north sails direct price, not
the "support your local business and get the best support" price.
If this is what it costs then ok, but if this seems high to anyone else tell me
where else I should be looking! I'm in Toronto.

And not to get into sail recommendations .. well ok, let me get into it .. I've
heard that radial sails are the way to go for headsails these days, whether racing
or not, is that true? That radial sails last longer. I'm looking for a cruising
sail that's built to last. Of course, I sail a C&C so I want to get the most
performance out of my boat that I can, naturally.

Thanks,

Steve
C&C 32 (renaming)
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Sail Quote - am I delusional?

2013-03-26 Thread djhaug...@juno.com

North direct gave me a price of $2150

-- Original Message --
From: Stevan Plavsa 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Sail Quote - am I delusional?
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2013 16:42:07 -0400

So I sent my sails in for some sail care with North and they phoned me to tell 
me that they recommend a new headsail, that the old one isn't worth fixing and 
that if I wanted to fix it it'll still be a terrible sail and $200 to fix. 
Ok, send me a quote I says.

The quote I got, for my C&C 32, is for a plain jane, 140%, dacron, cross cut 
furling headsail with RF cover and they want $2500 for that. Is this in line 
with reality? FX sails wants about $1800 for the same thing. Oh, and the $2500 
was the north sails direct price, not the "support your local business and get 
the best support" price.
If this is what it costs then ok, but if this seems high to anyone else tell me 
where else I should be looking! I'm in Toronto.

And not to get into sail recommendations .. well ok, let me get into it .. I've 
heard that radial sails are the way to go for headsails these days, whether 
racing or not, is that true? That radial sails last longer. I'm looking for a 
cruising sail that's built to last. Of course, I sail a C&C so I want to get 
the most performance out of my boat that I can, naturally. 

Thanks,

Steve
C&C 32 (renaming)
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous Chesapeake

Say, Joe, when are the NOR and registration for the CRYC event going to be
available on line? And what can we do about a PHRF rating for Imzadi?

 

I recently applied for an updated NC-PHRF rating, and I could supply that.
I'm told that NC-PHRF base ratings are generally Chessie PHRF minus 3 based
on it being more windy here than there. I suppose I could check that out on
line. I'd like to not need to get a Chessie PHRF for just the one race. The
fee up there is relatively high, plus the cost of hauling the boat to take
pictures and measure Imzadi's fixed prop on exposed shaft for the
application would be a PITA.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 3:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous Chesapeake

 

Also note we will have cruising entries for anyone that wants to just show
up at CRYC without being in the race J

 

Joe Della Barba

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Risch
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 3:00 PM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous

 

Can we label the subject for the Rendezvous' NE or Chesapeake Bay please.
It might get confusing out there.

Thanks

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

  _  

From: rickbr...@earthlink.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2013 22:46:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous

I'm already planning a trip to the Bay to do the Baltimore Light race and
the weekend at Joe Della Barba's club over the last weekend in July.  How
about a get together in the Inner Harbor (or the Cat's Eye in Fells Point),
the race the next day (I'm pretty sure we can get the PRO to set up a C&C
class), and the Rendezvous at Joe's club?  Centrally located in the Bay.
Much less congestion than Annapolis in October. Lots of marina, anchorage,
and hotel space in Baltimore and lots of things to do, easy logistics,
crewing opportunities for those who can't bring a boat to sail, and a nice
informal venue for a get together after the race.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
chef2s...@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2013 8:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous

 

 

 

Jason and I have talked about and are looking at possibly reestablishing the
C&C Rendezvous on the Chesapeake. Is there an interest? I have already
posted this idea on Sailnet where I post mainly and there is some interest.

 

The plan would be to look at a date in October and find a site/ marina/
anchorage where we could have a get together similar to the one Rob
Gallagher has organized up in new England with possibly a speaker. We are
looking at doing it in the Central Chesapeake to insure as many people can
attend either by boat or car in a weekend as possible. 

 

There are plenty of C&C's of many different sizes on the Chesapeake so
hopefully this sounds like an attractive idea. 

 

So what do you think?

 

Please respond with ideas, suggestions, whether you would attend etc.

 

Dave and Donna

S/V Haleakula 35- MKIII Hull #76

MDYC, Rock Creek, MD


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Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous Chesapeake

I will have to get the details.
Just to be clear - I am the PRO for the one design dinghy racing we are having. 
The MRSA (Magothy River Sailing Association) is starting the race over. I'll 
have to get with them and find out for you.


Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 5:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous Chesapeake

Say, Joe, when are the NOR and registration for the CRYC event going to be 
available on line? And what can we do about a PHRF rating for Imzadi?

I recently applied for an updated NC-PHRF rating, and I could supply that. I'm 
told that NC-PHRF base ratings are generally Chessie PHRF minus 3 based on it 
being more windy here than there. I suppose I could check that out on line. I'd 
like to not need to get a Chessie PHRF for just the one race. The fee up there 
is relatively high, plus the cost of hauling the boat to take pictures and 
measure Imzadi's fixed prop on exposed shaft for the application would be a 
PITA.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 3:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous Chesapeake

Also note we will have cruising entries for anyone that wants to just show up 
at CRYC without being in the race :)

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Risch
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 3:00 PM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous

Can we label the subject for the Rendezvous' NE or Chesapeake Bay please.   It 
might get confusing out there.

Thanks

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

From: rickbr...@earthlink.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2013 22:46:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous
I'm already planning a trip to the Bay to do the Baltimore Light race and the 
weekend at Joe Della Barba's club over the last weekend in July.  How about a 
get together in the Inner Harbor (or the Cat's Eye in Fells Point), the race 
the next day (I'm pretty sure we can get the PRO to set up a C&C class), and 
the Rendezvous at Joe's club?  Centrally located in the Bay. Much less 
congestion than Annapolis in October. Lots of marina, anchorage, and hotel 
space in Baltimore and lots of things to do, easy logistics, crewing 
opportunities for those who can't bring a boat to sail, and a nice informal 
venue for a get together after the race.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
chef2s...@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2013 8:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous



Jason and I have talked about and are looking at possibly reestablishing the 
C&C Rendezvous on the Chesapeake. Is there an interest? I have already posted 
this idea on Sailnet where I post mainly and there is some interest.

The plan would be to look at a date in October and find a site/ marina/ 
anchorage where we could have a get together similar to the one Rob Gallagher 
has organized up in new England with possibly a speaker. We are looking at 
doing it in the Central Chesapeake to insure as many people can attend either 
by boat or car in a weekend as possible.

There are plenty of C&C's of many different sizes on the Chesapeake so 
hopefully this sounds like an attractive idea.

So what do you think?

Please respond with ideas, suggestions, whether you would attend etc.

Dave and Donna
S/V Haleakula 35- MKIII Hull #76
MDYC, Rock Creek, MD

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Re: Stus-List Fw: Fw: (no subject) now AIS

2013-03-26 Thread Jeff Nelson

We installed and used the Digital Yacht AIS prior to Route St. Pierre
race this year. It installed easily and worked.
Almost 56 hours of continuous use to St. Pierre, and I'm guessing about
equal on the way back. Came in pretty
handy when we had 5 comercial vessels going in a few different
directions in the vicinity at around midnight on the

way to St. Pierre.

--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax

On 25/03/2013 2:26 PM, Jim Reinardy wrote:

I have also been intrigued by the Digital Yacht line, like this one:

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C344%7C2028691%7C2028911&id=2040954

Any experience there?

I am also curious to get thoughts on transponders vs. receivers. It
seems like an extra layer of protection to be broadcasting now that
more boats have AIS, but there is a big price difference. Also, it
used to be that commercial vessels often did not monitor Class B, is
that changed now?

Thanks,

Jim Reinardy
C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 25, 2013, at 11:51 AM, "Persuasion" > wrote:

Joe
Raymarine/Garmin are names I know. Joel mention SiTex and I check
them out and liked what I saw. Looked at Milltech but am still
unsure. I'm always open to recommendations.

Mike
*From:* Della Barba, Joe
*Sent:* Monday, March 25, 2013 8:22 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fw: (no subject) now AIS

I can't think of any bad units, but those are not the cheapest ones
out there.

Any reason you are not looking at the others? Do you need a display
on the unit itself?

*/Joe Della Barba/*

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of
*Persuasion

*Sent:* Monday, March 25, 2013 8:13 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Stus-List Fw: (no subject) now AIS

Thanks to those that responded. I'm now convinced I want an AIS.
The problem is which one. It will be connected directly to the pc
chart plotter. The Raymarine, Garmin and SiTex (new to me) all look
promising.

Mike

S/V Persuasion

C&C 37 Keel/CB

Long Sault

*From:*Joel Aronson

*Sent:*Friday, March 22, 2013 6:40 PM

*To:*cnc-list@cnc-list.com

*Subject:*Re: Stus-List (no subject)

Bob

No I will connect it to the plotter.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C344%7C2028691%7C2028908&id=1849984

Joel Aronson

On Mar 22, 2013, at 6:37 PM, Bob Moriarty > wrote:

Joel,

Is this the SI-TEX unit that you were looking at?

http://www.si-tex.com/index.php/product-information/ais/sas-300-ais-class-b-ais-transceiver-detail

Although I don't have any of their hardware, I like the SI-TEX
brand. They seem to occupy the "value" space. Value, like free
wind, = good. :-)

Full disclosure: I'm just a day-sailor who rarely ventures
outside the mouth of the St Johns River in Florida. Despite this,
I bought an MilTech AIS receiver 6 or 7 years ago because I
thought it was really cool and relatively inexpensive. It once
picked up the signal from an old tugboat in for repairs at Green
Cove Springs. w00t.

As for AIS (receivers), do folks think that a radar-like display
of approaching targets is OK or even perhaps optimal?

Or, is it be important to be able to put the nearby boats in the
context of a chart?

I know that many chart-plotters can interpret and display AIS
data and predict potential collisions. But, might this be a good
case for having a standalone unit, dedicated for nearby
"situational awareness" - kinda like radar I suppose. Probably
depends upon one's situation. :-)

Bob M

Ox 33-1

Jax, FL

On Fri, Mar 22, 2013 at 12:14 PM, Joel Aronson
mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>> wrote:

I've been looking at the Si Tex. built in GPS antenna. Good Price.

Joel Aronson

On Mar 22, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Persuasion mailto:persuasio...@gmail.com>> wrote:

> Hey Fellow C&Cers
>
> Thinking about my next boat project. I'm looking for advise on
an AIS transponder. I'm thinking about a Class B. Anyone been
down this road that can help?
>
> Thanks
>
> --
> Mike
> S/V Persuasion
> C&C 37 K/CB

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Re: Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

2013-03-26 Thread Martin DeYoung

A properly feathered MAX prop will not rotate as the blades have aligned with 
the thin edge towards the water flow.  If the blades do not feather then it 
will rotate the same as a fixed blade prop.

As to the chance of a wrap, I put around 25K NM on MAX props back and forth 
across the NE Pacific and around the PNW (we do not have many lobster pots) 
with almost no wrap issues.  Once on a delivery back from Hawaii a garbage bag 
caught on the feathered prop which had to be removed by a dive.  For me the 
wrap issue has mainly been a line over the side when the “high speed underwater 
winch” was put in motion.

There was that time up in BC where after a lunch stop in Squirrel Cove I was up 
in the bow weighing anchor.  As the anchor got within sight I noticed a 
monofilament (shrimp pot?) line running aft just as the lovely Mrs. Calypso put 
the boat (1980 C&C 36) in gear.  The MAX prop did what all props would do and 
grabbed the line and wound it tight.  Had to dive on that one and lost a 
Leatherman in the process.

PYI, Inc. who sells the MAX prop recommends the sharp line cutting devices.  I 
have not used/needed them but if I regularly sailed around waters filled with 
crab/lobster pots, especially in poor visibility I would use the cutters.

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Neil Andersen
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 1:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

Won’t keeping the transmission in neutral cause the prop to rotate (as it is 
not ‘connected’ to the engine and thereby increasing the chance of a prop shaft 
wrap?

Neil
FoxFire, C&C32
Worton Creek, MD

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 2:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

On Calypso with its Perkins 4-108 coupled to a 71 series Borg-Warner Velvet 
Drive reduction gear we mostly do 1. & 2., but sometimes 3.

With our Velvet Drive reduction gear, the MAX prop feathering process needs the 
engine running to provide the hydraulic pressure to brake the shaft (hydraulic 
pressure continues for a moment as the engine shuts down).  The 
motoring/sailing speed provides the water flow to push the prop blades into the 
feathered position.  After the engine has been off for a few moments the Velvet 
Drive no longer has enough hydraulic pressure to lock the prop shaft negating 
any effect of the gear level position.

It is important to know what your own reduction gear manufacturer says 
regarding sailing in neutral vs. in gear.  With a feathered MAX prop the prop 
shaft should not rotate whether the reduction gear is “in gear” or out.  If you 
hear a rumbling noise after “old smoky” has shut down the prop may not have 
feathered correctly.  Once in a great while, or after I have just serviced the 
prop and it is full of grease, I will need to start the engine back up, use 
reverse gear for a moment then back to forward and repeat feathering process.

On occasion, especially when using a spinnaker, I place the throttle/gear lever 
in the neutral position to avoid having a spinny sheet wrap around it.  
(Calypso’s throttle/gear lever is located stbd/outer side of the cockpit just 
below a cleat used with the primary winch.)

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle

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Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous

Sorry, David. Didn't mean to cause confusion.

 

I am planning my schedule so I can be at both events, so I'm aware there are
two. But I was replying to a message and didn't think to change the subject
line.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Risch
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 3:00 PM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous

 

Can we label the subject for the Rendezvous' NE or Chesapeake Bay please.
It might get confusing out there.

Thanks

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

From: rickbr...@earthlink.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2013 22:46:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous

I'm already planning a trip to the Bay to do the Baltimore Light race and
the weekend at Joe Della Barba's club over the last weekend in July.  How
about a get together in the Inner Harbor (or the Cat's Eye in Fells Point),
the race the next day (I'm pretty sure we can get the PRO to set up a C&C
class), and the Rendezvous at Joe's club?  Centrally located in the Bay.
Much less congestion than Annapolis in October. Lots of marina, anchorage,
and hotel space in Baltimore and lots of things to do, easy logistics,
crewing opportunities for those who can't bring a boat to sail, and a nice
informal venue for a get together after the race.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
chef2s...@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2013 8:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous

 

 

 

Jason and I have talked about and are looking at possibly reestablishing the
C&C Rendezvous on the Chesapeake. Is there an interest? I have already
posted this idea on Sailnet where I post mainly and there is some interest.

 

The plan would be to look at a date in October and find a site/ marina/
anchorage where we could have a get together similar to the one Rob
Gallagher has organized up in new England with possibly a speaker. We are
looking at doing it in the Central Chesapeake to insure as many people can
attend either by boat or car in a weekend as possible. 

 

There are plenty of C&C's of many different sizes on the Chesapeake so
hopefully this sounds like an attractive idea. 

 

So what do you think?

 

Please respond with ideas, suggestions, whether you would attend etc.

 

Dave and Donna

S/V Haleakula 35- MKIII Hull #76

MDYC, Rock Creek, MD


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Re: Stus-List Sail Quote - am I delusional?

2013-03-26 Thread djhaug...@juno.com

Steven,

Thats what I paid for a local reputable loft to, stand on my boat and measure, 
build and install.

Rolly Tasker gave me a price of like $1650

Danny
Lolita 
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA


-- Original Message --
From: Stevan Plavsa 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Sail Quote - am I delusional?
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2013 16:42:07 -0400

So I sent my sails in for some sail care with North and they phoned me to tell 
me that they recommend a new headsail, that the old one isn't worth fixing and 
that if I wanted to fix it it'll still be a terrible sail and $200 to fix. 
Ok, send me a quote I says.

The quote I got, for my C&C 32, is for a plain jane, 140%, dacron, cross cut 
furling headsail with RF cover and they want $2500 for that. Is this in line 
with reality? FX sails wants about $1800 for the same thing. Oh, and the $2500 
was the north sails direct price, not the "support your local business and get 
the best support" price.
If this is what it costs then ok, but if this seems high to anyone else tell me 
where else I should be looking! I'm in Toronto.

And not to get into sail recommendations .. well ok, let me get into it .. I've 
heard that radial sails are the way to go for headsails these days, whether 
racing or not, is that true? That radial sails last longer. I'm looking for a 
cruising sail that's built to last. Of course, I sail a C&C so I want to get 
the most performance out of my boat that I can, naturally. 

Thanks,

Steve
C&C 32 (renaming)
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Sail Quote - am I delusional?

Steve

Check Rolly Tasker if you are looking for a sail made offshore. Radial
sails have smaller panels. In theory they last longer. Let them flog
and they all turn to crap.

Joel


On Mar 26, 2013, at 4:42 PM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

> So I sent my sails in for some sail care with North and they phoned me to 
> tell me that they recommend a new headsail, that the old one isn't worth 
> fixing and that if I wanted to fix it it'll still be a terrible sail and $200 
> to fix.
> Ok, send me a quote I says.
>
> The quote I got, for my C&C 32, is for a plain jane, 140%, dacron, cross cut 
> furling headsail with RF cover and they want $2500 for that. Is this in line 
> with reality? FX sails wants about $1800 for the same thing. Oh, and the 
> $2500 was the north sails direct price, not the "support your local business 
> and get the best support" price.
> If this is what it costs then ok, but if this seems high to anyone else tell 
> me where else I should be looking! I'm in Toronto.
>
> And not to get into sail recommendations .. well ok, let me get into it .. 
> I've heard that radial sails are the way to go for headsails these days, 
> whether racing or not, is that true? That radial sails last longer. I'm 
> looking for a cruising sail that's built to last. Of course, I sail a C&C so 
> I want to get the most performance out of my boat that I can, naturally.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
> C&C 32 (renaming)
> Toronto
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Re: Stus-List C&C 32 Securing Anchor on Bow

2013-03-26 Thread Martin DeYoung

On Calypso I use a small piece of line and tie the anchor (65lb CQR) in place 
for most PNW waters.  I run the line from the lifting eye back along the 
shank/chain then to a bow cleat.  Calypso's anchor roller configuration limits 
side to side motion of the anchor (in normal weather) and the tension (light) 
of the chain as it passes through the windless and into the locker provides a 
"jamming" effect.  If headed offshore on into significant weather I would 
remove the anchor and stow it away from the effect of spray/water on deck.

Back in '94 I was hired to be navigator on a Swan 65 ketch bound for So Calif.  
We got into some significant late fall weather (steady 55, gusting well past 
60) off the Washington coast.  The Swan's anchor was pinned into the bow roller 
with a 1/2" SS fast pin.  Sometime after sunset (comes early in late fall) the 
anchor pin sheared and the green water coming over the bow forced the anchor 
and its chain rode far enough out/aft that it was striking the hull by the 
shrouds.  The hired boat capt. put on a survival suit and a harness to retrieve 
the anchor and secure it out of harm's way.  Those of us experienced in the 
ways of late season NE Pacific sailing chuckled at the RBO when he asked the 
boat capt. "is there something I should be worried about" upon seeing him in 
the survival suit.

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Russo
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 12:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 32 Securing Anchor on Bow

Al.

I have a 25 lb CQR anchor and put it in position on the standard 32 roller and 
push the anchor pin through a hole in the anchor which was already there and it 
 doesn't go anywhere. This greatly simplifies anchoring as the hardest part for 
me is to get it out of the anchor locker and past the roller furler base. I do 
this once a year now. I do however secure a thin rubber matt over the anchor 
locker hatch so the shank does not grind it up if it moves and it does a 
little. I may change this to a small piece of outdoor carpet to avoid streaking 
the anchor locker hatch and can also tie the anchor shank to the toe rail. Hope 
this helps

John
Arpeggio
1984 C&C 32
Norwalk, CT

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Al Woods
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 12:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 32 Securing Anchor on Bow

I have a Delta 22lb fast set that I would like to keep on the bow roller on my 
32 occasionally.   Last year I rigged up something with carabiners and nylon 
webbing that was not particularly elegant or secure.  I have purchased 2 
different anchor tensioners that I have not have the courage to install 
(Windline & Lewmar).  How can I secure that thing up there with the least 
amount of work?

Al Woods
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Stus-List Sail Quote - am I delusional?

2013-03-26 Thread Stevan Plavsa

So I sent my sails in for some sail care with North and they phoned me to tell 
me that they recommend a new headsail, that the old one isn't worth fixing and 
that if I wanted to fix it it'll still be a terrible sail and $200 to fix. 
Ok, send me a quote I says.

The quote I got, for my C&C 32, is for a plain jane, 140%, dacron, cross cut 
furling headsail with RF cover and they want $2500 for that. Is this in line 
with reality? FX sails wants about $1800 for the same thing. Oh, and the $2500 
was the north sails direct price, not the "support your local business and get 
the best support" price.
If this is what it costs then ok, but if this seems high to anyone else tell me 
where else I should be looking! I'm in Toronto.

And not to get into sail recommendations .. well ok, let me get into it .. I've 
heard that radial sails are the way to go for headsails these days, whether 
racing or not, is that true? That radial sails last longer. I'm looking for a 
cruising sail that's built to last. Of course, I sail a C&C so I want to get 
the most performance out of my boat that I can, naturally. 

Thanks,

Steve
C&C 32 (renaming)
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

2013-03-26 Thread Neil Andersen

Won’t keeping the transmission in neutral cause the prop to rotate (as it is 
not ‘connected’ to the engine and thereby increasing the chance of a prop shaft 
wrap?

 

Neil

FoxFire, C&C32

Worton Creek, MD

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 2:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

 

On Calypso with its Perkins 4-108 coupled to a 71 series Borg-Warner Velvet 
Drive reduction gear we mostly do 1. & 2., but sometimes 3.

 

With our Velvet Drive reduction gear, the MAX prop feathering process needs the 
engine running to provide the hydraulic pressure to brake the shaft (hydraulic 
pressure continues for a moment as the engine shuts down).  The 
motoring/sailing speed provides the water flow to push the prop blades into the 
feathered position.  After the engine has been off for a few moments the Velvet 
Drive no longer has enough hydraulic pressure to lock the prop shaft negating 
any effect of the gear level position.

 

It is important to know what your own reduction gear manufacturer says 
regarding sailing in neutral vs. in gear.  With a feathered MAX prop the prop 
shaft should not rotate whether the reduction gear is “in gear” or out.  If you 
hear a rumbling noise after “old smoky” has shut down the prop may not have 
feathered correctly.  Once in a great while, or after I have just serviced the 
prop and it is full of grease, I will need to start the engine back up, use 
reverse gear for a moment then back to forward and repeat feathering process.

 

On occasion, especially when using a spinnaker, I place the throttle/gear lever 
in the neutral position to avoid having a spinny sheet wrap around it.  
(Calypso’s throttle/gear lever is located stbd/outer side of the cockpit just 
below a cleat used with the primary winch.)

 

Martin

Calypso

1970 C&C 43

Seattle

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 11:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

 

How do you feather a max-prop?

 

A friend of mine says he:

1.  While motoring forward at 3 knots, shuts off the motor

2.  Places the transmission into reverse to feather the prop

That’s it, that’s what he does. He leaves the transmission in reverse.

 

I do the following:

1.  While motoring forward at 3 knots, shut off the motor

2.  Place the transmission into reverse for 20 seconds to feather the prop

3.  Place the transmission in neutral

According to my friend, leaving the transmission in reverse keeps the prop 
feathered and keeps the driveshaft from rotating.

 

Any thoughts on this??

 

 

Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
Website: www.tj622.com

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Re: Stus-List more LF38's [was Rainproof case for iPad]

So many invites, so little time…   :^)   A nice problem to have -- thanks to 
all!

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 26, 2013, at 3:33 PM, Rick Brass  wrote:

> Or come to North Carolina. 63 and sunny, 6-8 kt winds on Saturday. 68 on 
> Sunday. Southwest is cheap to Raleigh, We’ll have brunch at the club and then 
> sail. I’ve just introduced my Admiral to Pain Killers, so there will be 
> refreshments (though I use Cruzan Black Strap instead of Pusser’s).

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Re: Stus-List more LF38's [was Rainproof case for iPad]

Or come to North Carolina. 63 and sunny, 6-8 kt winds on Saturday. 68 on
Sunday. Southwest is cheap to Raleigh, We'll have brunch at the club and
then sail. I've just introduced my Admiral to Pain Killers, so there will be
refreshments (though I use Cruzan Black Strap instead of Pusser's).

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 11:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List more LF38's [was Rainproof case for iPad]

 

Fred,

 

Come to Annapolis Sunday.  Temps in the 50s, southerly winds 8-10.  I plan
to shove off late morning.

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Tue, Mar 26, 2013 at 11:04 AM, Frederick G Street 
wrote:

Up here in northern Minnesota/Wisconsin (almost Canada.), being on the hard
is an annual event as the water freezes solid.  Here's a satellite picture
of Lake Superior from almost exactly four years ago -- the area I primarily
sail is the grouping of islands near the western end of the lake:

 

http://www.crh.noaa.gov/images/mqt/Lake%20Superior%20ice%20Mar3_09tbig.jpg

 

So all the boats in the marinas are hauled out and put on cradles or
jackstands in the parking lot.  That means about 120 boats, mostly sail, at
the marina where I keep my boat.  It does get a bit crowded; you can
literally walk all the way across the large parking lot by stepping from one
deck to the next -- something like this, but a lot closer together, and with
much more snow:

 

http://www.clydemarina.com/images/winter_storage.jpg

 

I expect to launch sometime in May, with any luck -- but it's been a very
snowy late winter here, so it's hard to tell.  I'd be very happy to trade
boats with you for a while, since you're so looking forward to being on the
hard, and I'd love to be somewhere with warm water for a change.   :^)

 


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

 

On Mar 26, 2013, at 6:03 AM, Anthony Mitchell  wrote:





When do you think you will get off the hard? We will be up for a pretty
major refit after this stint as well, because the boat has been in remote
locations for a long time now and has been maintained out of suitcases. It
will be nice to get onto the hard for some serious work :)

 


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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

Whether mechanical or hydraulic, the drive is powered by a reversing electrical 
motor in most small boat drives. When the size increases, a single continuously 
running electro/hydraulic pump is used, and the hydraulic fluid flow is 
reversed using solenoid activated valves. Either way, any of the major 
manufacturers can supply a control head to power the steering gear. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-03-26, at 12:27, Edd Schillay  wrote:

That's the drive I have on the Enterprise. It's my Robertson unit that won't 
run it anymore. 

So any control unit could be attached to this?

All the best,

Edd

Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website

On Mar 26, 2013, at 11:21 AM, Frederick G Street  wrote:

> I'd definitely use this drive with a Raymarine corepack:
> 
> http://www.savinglots.com/lotprod.asp?item=OCTAF1212LAM12
> 
> Cheaper than the Raymarine linear drive, too.
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> On Mar 26, 2013, at 10:07 AM, "Della Barba, Joe"  
> wrote:
> 
>> We loved the hydraulic units because a hydraulic ram is nearly 
>> indestructible. The only thing that can really go wrong is a bad seal and 
>> that can be fixed anywhere in the world. A bad pump can be swapped out 
>> fairly easily in a remote spot. When the rudder was not supposed to be 
>> moving the hydraulics lock it in place with much less strain on the device 
>> than the mechanical drives. The linear drives are more fiddly, with gears 
>> and bearings. They would tend to get chewed up under heavy use and are not 
>> easily fixable in Samoa or Bermuda – they pretty much have to go back home 
>> for repairs. Remember this is me spending other people’s money ;) Now if you 
>> already have a linear drive it isn’t like it won’t work – they will steer 
>> the boat. In your install make SURE there is no lost motion with the mount 
>> flexing. That will feed back through the rudder sensor and the thing will 
>> endlessly be going back and forth. We had boats where the HULL flexed enough 
>> to cause this issue and we had to get reinforcements glassed in.
> 
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List C&C 32 Securing Anchor on Bow

2013-03-26 Thread John Russo

Al.

 

I have a 25 lb CQR anchor and put it in position on the standard 32 roller
and push the anchor pin through a hole in the anchor which was already there
and it  doesn't go anywhere. This greatly simplifies anchoring as the
hardest part for me is to get it out of the anchor locker and past the
roller furler base. I do this once a year now. I do however secure a thin
rubber matt over the anchor locker hatch so the shank does not grind it up
if it moves and it does a little. I may change this to a small piece of
outdoor carpet to avoid streaking the anchor locker hatch and can also tie
the anchor shank to the toe rail. Hope this helps

 

John

Arpeggio

1984 C&C 32

Norwalk, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Al Woods
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 12:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 32 Securing Anchor on Bow

 

I have a Delta 22lb fast set that I would like to keep on the bow roller on
my 32 occasionally.   Last year I rigged up something with carabiners and
nylon webbing that was not particularly elegant or secure.  I have purchased
2 different anchor tensioners that I have not have the courage to install
(Windline & Lewmar).  How can I secure that thing up there with the least
amount of work?  

 

Al Woods

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Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous Chesapeake

Also note we will have cruising entries for anyone that wants to just show up 
at CRYC without being in the race :)

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Risch
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 3:00 PM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous

Can we label the subject for the Rendezvous' NE or Chesapeake Bay please.   It 
might get confusing out there.

Thanks

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

From: rickbr...@earthlink.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2013 22:46:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous
I'm already planning a trip to the Bay to do the Baltimore Light race and the 
weekend at Joe Della Barba's club over the last weekend in July.  How about a 
get together in the Inner Harbor (or the Cat's Eye in Fells Point), the race 
the next day (I'm pretty sure we can get the PRO to set up a C&C class), and 
the Rendezvous at Joe's club?  Centrally located in the Bay. Much less 
congestion than Annapolis in October. Lots of marina, anchorage, and hotel 
space in Baltimore and lots of things to do, easy logistics, crewing 
opportunities for those who can't bring a boat to sail, and a nice informal 
venue for a get together after the race.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
chef2s...@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2013 8:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous

Jason and I have talked about and are looking at possibly reestablishing the 
C&C Rendezvous on the Chesapeake. Is there an interest? I have already posted 
this idea on Sailnet where I post mainly and there is some interest.

The plan would be to look at a date in October and find a site/ marina/ 
anchorage where we could have a get together similar to the one Rob Gallagher 
has organized up in new England with possibly a speaker. We are looking at 
doing it in the Central Chesapeake to insure as many people can attend either 
by boat or car in a weekend as possible.

There are plenty of C&C's of many different sizes on the Chesapeake so 
hopefully this sounds like an attractive idea.

So what do you think?

Please respond with ideas, suggestions, whether you would attend etc.

Dave and Donna
S/V Haleakula 35- MKIII Hull #76
MDYC, Rock Creek, MD

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Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous

2013-03-26 Thread David Risch

Can we label the subject for the Rendezvous' NE or Chesapeake Bay please.   It 
might get confusing out there.

Thanks

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


From: rickbr...@earthlink.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2013 22:46:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C  2013 Rendezvous

I’m already planning a trip to the Bay to do the Baltimore Light race and the 
weekend at Joe Della Barba’s club over the last weekend in July.  How about a 
get together in the Inner Harbor (or the Cat’s Eye in Fells Point), the race 
the next day (I’m pretty sure we can get the PRO to set up a C&C class), and 
the Rendezvous at Joe’s club?  Centrally located in the Bay. Much less 
congestion than Annapolis in October. Lots of marina, anchorage, and hotel 
space in Baltimore and lots of things to do, easy logistics, crewing 
opportunities for those who can’t bring a boat to sail, and a nice informal 
venue for a get together after the race.  Rick BrassWashington, NC   From: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of chef2s...@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2013 8:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 2013 Rendezvous   Jason and I have talked about and 
are looking at possibly reestablishing the C&C Rendezvous on the Chesapeake. Is 
there an interest? I have already posted this idea on Sailnet where I post 
mainly and there is some interest. The plan would be to look at a date in 
October and find a site/ marina/ anchorage where we could have a get together 
similar to the one Rob Gallagher has organized up in new England with possibly 
a speaker. We are looking at doing it in the Central Chesapeake to insure as 
many people can attend either by boat or car in a weekend as possible.  There 
are plenty of C&C's of many different sizes on the Chesapeake so hopefully this 
sounds like an attractive idea.  So what do you think? Please respond with 
ideas, suggestions, whether you would attend etc. Dave and DonnaS/V Haleakula 
35- MKIII Hull #76MDYC, Rock Creek, MD
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Re: Stus-List more LF38's [was Rainproof case for iPad]

You're killing me…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 26, 2013, at 10:57 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> Fred,
> 
> Come to Annapolis Sunday.  Temps in the 50s, southerly winds 8-10.  I plan to 
> shove off late morning.

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Re: Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

2013-03-26 Thread Martin DeYoung

On Calypso with its Perkins 4-108 coupled to a 71 series Borg-Warner Velvet 
Drive reduction gear we mostly do 1. & 2., but sometimes 3.

With our Velvet Drive reduction gear, the MAX prop feathering process needs the 
engine running to provide the hydraulic pressure to brake the shaft (hydraulic 
pressure continues for a moment as the engine shuts down).  The 
motoring/sailing speed provides the water flow to push the prop blades into the 
feathered position.  After the engine has been off for a few moments the Velvet 
Drive no longer has enough hydraulic pressure to lock the prop shaft negating 
any effect of the gear level position.

It is important to know what your own reduction gear manufacturer says 
regarding sailing in neutral vs. in gear.  With a feathered MAX prop the prop 
shaft should not rotate whether the reduction gear is “in gear” or out.  If you 
hear a rumbling noise after “old smoky” has shut down the prop may not have 
feathered correctly.  Once in a great while, or after I have just serviced the 
prop and it is full of grease, I will need to start the engine back up, use 
reverse gear for a moment then back to forward and repeat feathering process.

On occasion, especially when using a spinnaker, I place the throttle/gear lever 
in the neutral position to avoid having a spinny sheet wrap around it.  
(Calypso’s throttle/gear lever is located stbd/outer side of the cockpit just 
below a cleat used with the primary winch.)

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 11:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

How do you feather a max-prop?

A friend of mine says he:

  1.  While motoring forward at 3 knots, shuts off the motor

  1.  Places the transmission into reverse to feather the prop
That’s it, that’s what he does. He leaves the transmission in reverse.

I do the following:

  1.  While motoring forward at 3 knots, shut off the motor

  1.  Place the transmission into reverse for 20 seconds to feather the prop

  1.  Place the transmission in neutral
According to my friend, leaving the transmission in reverse keeps the prop 
feathered and keeps the driveshaft from rotating.

Any thoughts on this??


Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
Website: www.tj622.com
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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

on Cruisersforum:
libitsky 
Registered User

Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 4
*Robertson Autopilot AP300 Parts*
--
Robertson Autopilot
 AP300 parts :
AP300 Control Head- $175
RPU160-$75
RFC Heading sensor-$50
or all for $225


On Tue, Mar 26, 2013 at 2:12 PM, Frederick G Street wrote:

> Lloyd -- from a previous life as an installer, I can still source
> electronics at pretty good prices; for instance, I can get the
> Raymarine E12199 SmartPilot X-30 Corepack for under $1900, and the E22166
> P70 Autopilot Control Head for under $450.  Shop around and check pricing;
> if you'd like to order through me, please let me know.  I ONLY provide this
> service as a courtesy to C&C List members, not as a business concern (as I
> don't make any $$$ at it…).
>
> With those two items and the previously-mentioned Octopus linear hydraulic
> drive at $1580, you'd be looking at about $3930 plus shipping and
> installation for a kick-@$$ autopilot system well-suited to the LF39.
>
> How much of this will you be doing yourself?
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Mar 26, 2013, at 12:51 PM, "LKL Architects" 
> wrote:
>
> Thank you Joe.have not bought the equipmentso will take your
> advice and go with the hydraulic.so appreciate your reply
>
> Lloyd Lippe
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

2013-03-26 Thread Terry

Thanks...T

From: Joel Aronson 
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 11:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

Terry, 

We had a similar discussion last year.  Do you have a Yanmar?  I put mine in 
reverse, then neutral, but either is acceptable according to Yanmar so long as 
you have a folding/feathering prop.  The shaft should not rotate regardless.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Tue, Mar 26, 2013 at 2:05 PM,  wrote:

  I use the same shut down procedure (suggested by Max prop) and leave the 
transmission in reverse.

  Jack Fitzgerald
  C&C 39TM
  HONEY
  US12788

  In a message dated 3/26/2013 2:02:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
tj...@comcast.net writes:
How do you feather a max-prop?

A friend of mine says he:
  1.. While motoring forward at 3 knots, shuts off the motor
  2.. Places the transmission into reverse to feather the prop
That’s it, that’s what he does. He leaves the transmission in reverse.

I do the following:
  1.. While motoring forward at 3 knots, shut off the motor
  2.. Place the transmission into reverse for 20 seconds to feather the prop
  3.. Place the transmission in neutral
According to my friend, leaving the transmission in reverse keeps the prop 
feathered and keeps the driveshaft from rotating.

Any thoughts on this??

Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
Website: www.tj622.com

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E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
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Re: Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

2013-03-26 Thread Terry

I have a Yanmar...T

From: Joel Aronson 
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 11:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

Terry, 

We had a similar discussion last year.  Do you have a Yanmar?  I put mine in 
reverse, then neutral, but either is acceptable according to Yanmar so long as 
you have a folding/feathering prop.  The shaft should not rotate regardless.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Tue, Mar 26, 2013 at 2:05 PM,  wrote:

  I use the same shut down procedure (suggested by Max prop) and leave the 
transmission in reverse.

  Jack Fitzgerald
  C&C 39TM
  HONEY
  US12788

  In a message dated 3/26/2013 2:02:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
tj...@comcast.net writes:
How do you feather a max-prop?

A friend of mine says he:
  1.. While motoring forward at 3 knots, shuts off the motor
  2.. Places the transmission into reverse to feather the prop
That’s it, that’s what he does. He leaves the transmission in reverse.

I do the following:
  1.. While motoring forward at 3 knots, shut off the motor
  2.. Place the transmission into reverse for 20 seconds to feather the prop
  3.. Place the transmission in neutral
According to my friend, leaving the transmission in reverse keeps the prop 
feathered and keeps the driveshaft from rotating.

Any thoughts on this??

Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
Website: www.tj622.com

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S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

Lloyd -- from a previous life as an installer, I can still source electronics 
at pretty good prices; for instance, I can get the Raymarine E12199 SmartPilot 
X-30 Corepack for under $1900, and the E22166 P70 Autopilot Control Head for 
under $450.  Shop around and check pricing; if you'd like to order through me, 
please let me know.  I ONLY provide this service as a courtesy to C&C List 
members, not as a business concern (as I don't make any $$$ at it…).

With those two items and the previously-mentioned Octopus linear hydraulic 
drive at $1580, you'd be looking at about $3930 plus shipping and installation 
for a kick-@$$ autopilot system well-suited to the LF39.

How much of this will you be doing yourself?

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 26, 2013, at 12:51 PM, "LKL Architects"  wrote:

> Thank you Joe.have not bought the equipmentso will take your advice 
> and go with the hydraulic.so appreciate your reply
>  
> Lloyd Lippe
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Re: Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

Terry,

We had a similar discussion last year.  Do you have a Yanmar?  I put mine
in reverse, then neutral, but either is acceptable according to Yanmar so
long as you have a folding/feathering prop.  The shaft should not rotate
regardless.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Tue, Mar 26, 2013 at 2:05 PM,  wrote:

> **
> I use the same shut down procedure (suggested by Max prop) and leave the
> transmission in reverse.
>
> Jack Fitzgerald
> C&C 39TM
> HONEY
> US12788
>
>  In a message dated 3/26/2013 2:02:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> tj...@comcast.net writes:
>
>  How do you feather a max-prop?
>
> A friend of mine says he:
>
>1. While motoring forward at 3 knots, shuts off the motor
>2. Places the transmission into reverse to feather the prop
>
> That’s it, that’s what he does. He leaves the transmission in reverse.
>
> I do the following:
>
>1. While motoring forward at 3 knots, shut off the motor
>2. Place the transmission into reverse for 20 seconds to feather the
>prop
>3. Place the transmission in neutral
>
> According to my friend, leaving the transmission in reverse keeps the prop
> feathered and keeps the driveshaft from rotating.
>
> Any thoughts on this??
>
>
> Terry Johnson
> S/V Ozymandias
> E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
> Website: www.tj622.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

2013-03-26 Thread HONEYSAIL

I use the same shut down procedure (suggested by Max prop) and leave the  
transmission in reverse.
 
Jack Fitzgerald
C&C 39TM
HONEY
US12788
 
 
In a message dated 3/26/2013 2:02:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tj...@comcast.net writes:

 
 
How do  you feather a max-prop?
 
A friend  of mine says he:
1.  While  motoring forward at 3 knots, shuts off the motor
2.  Places  the transmission into reverse to feather the prop

That’s  it, that’s what he does. He leaves the transmission in reverse.
 
I do the  following:
1.  While  motoring forward at 3 knots, shut off the motor
2.  Place  the transmission into reverse for 20 seconds to feather the 
prop
3.  Place  the transmission in neutral

According  to my friend, leaving the transmission in reverse keeps the prop 
feathered and  keeps the driveshaft from rotating.
 
Any  thoughts on this??
 
 
Terry  Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
Website:  www.tj622.com




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Stus-List Feathering a Max-prop

2013-03-26 Thread Terry

How do you feather a max-prop?

A friend of mine says he:
  1.. While motoring forward at 3 knots, shuts off the motor
  2.. Places the transmission into reverse to feather the prop
That’s it, that’s what he does. He leaves the transmission in reverse.

I do the following:
  1.. While motoring forward at 3 knots, shut off the motor
  2.. Place the transmission into reverse for 20 seconds to feather the prop
  3.. Place the transmission in neutral
According to my friend, leaving the transmission in reverse keeps the prop 
feathered and keeps the driveshaft from rotating.

Any thoughts on this??


Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
Website: www.tj622.com___
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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

2013-03-26 Thread LKL Architects

Thank you Joe.have not bought the equipmentso will take your advice and 
go with the hydraulic.so appreciate your reply

Lloyd Lippe
  - Original Message - 
  From: Della Barba, Joe 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 12:46 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots

  I would go hydraulic if you haven't already bought the equipment. Do check 
and make sure the max current the core can supply is enough for whatever drive 
you pick. This is another area not to go right to the limit on. Take the "max 
pounds" thing though as a guess. A *lot* depends on how hard the boat is to 
steer. A supertanker can probably be steered with two fingers and my boat takes 
both hands and all your strength surfing down a wave.  If the boat is hard for 
YOU to steer, it is hard for Otto as well. I actually did have a case where a 
SeaRay 65 (or 55 maybe??) owner got a big Robertson autopilot intended for 
ships and tugboats. A tanker might never react to a little twitch, but the 
SeaRay on plane was all over the place at speed. The damping in the autopilot 
was all wrong for a high speed powerboat.

  Joe Della Barba  Coquina

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of LKL 
Architects
  Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 11:59 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots

  All these posts are really good timing for me and Finesse,  85 Landfall 39 
(19,500 displacement).  Until now...was pretty much sold on Raymarine P70, X-10 
Type 1 mechanical linear drive which is rated up to 24,000 lbs.  Plan to cruise 
Florida and onto Eastern Caribbean.

  Joe based on your commentswould appreciated your thoughts if this is 
cutting it too close when loaded and with my destination should I abandon the 
mechanical drive for the hydraulicappreciate your thoughts and all 
othersand thank you in advance.

  Lloyd Lippe

  Rockport, Texas

- Original Message - 

From: Della Barba, Joe 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 8:11 AM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots

I have an AH 400 unit from about 1988, so it has been working for 25 years 
now. Kind of like George Washington's ax, the drive and the computer have all 
been repaired more than once.  This is no thanks to 
Autohelm/Raytheon/RayMarine, who told me to NEVER send it in again for repairs 
again after fixing it around 1994 or so. These are light duty autopilots that 
cannot handle heavy air going downwind. Going to windward they do pretty well.

I used to be in the business of selling and installing autopilots in the 
mid-90s and what we learned then was you want the BIGGEST drive you can fit and 
afford, not the smallest drive you think might work. We used Octopus brand 
(division of Teleflex) hydraulic drives for all our installs. They worked fine 
with Raytheon and other autopilot brands. We never did like the electric linear 
drives and tried to stay away from them. You really need to know what you are 
doing or hire a pro to install the drive. The forces it can produce are enough 
to do real damage to a boat if you set it up wrong. BTW, for long distance 
sailing I read about adapting a tiller pilot to the bottom half of a windvane 
steering system. This used almost no power and the tiller pilots are cheap 
enough to carry spares.

Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

I would go hydraulic if you haven't already bought the equipment. Do check and 
make sure the max current the core can supply is enough for whatever drive you 
pick. This is another area not to go right to the limit on. Take the "max 
pounds" thing though as a guess. A *lot* depends on how hard the boat is to 
steer. A supertanker can probably be steered with two fingers and my boat takes 
both hands and all your strength surfing down a wave.  If the boat is hard for 
YOU to steer, it is hard for Otto as well. I actually did have a case where a 
SeaRay 65 (or 55 maybe??) owner got a big Robertson autopilot intended for 
ships and tugboats. A tanker might never react to a little twitch, but the 
SeaRay on plane was all over the place at speed. The damping in the autopilot 
was all wrong for a high speed powerboat.
Joe Della Barba  Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of LKL 
Architects
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 11:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots

All these posts are really good timing for me and Finesse,  85 Landfall 39 
(19,500 displacement).  Until now...was pretty much sold on Raymarine P70, X-10 
Type 1 mechanical linear drive which is rated up to 24,000 lbs.  Plan to cruise 
Florida and onto Eastern Caribbean.

Joe based on your commentswould appreciated your thoughts if this is 
cutting it too close when loaded and with my destination should I abandon the 
mechanical drive for the hydraulicappreciate your thoughts and all 
othersand thank you in advance.

Lloyd Lippe
Rockport, Texas
- Original Message -
From: Della Barba, Joe
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots

I have an AH 400 unit from about 1988, so it has been working for 25 years now. 
Kind of like George Washington's ax, the drive and the computer have all been 
repaired more than once.  This is no thanks to Autohelm/Raytheon/RayMarine, who 
told me to NEVER send it in again for repairs again after fixing it around 1994 
or so. These are light duty autopilots that cannot handle heavy air going 
downwind. Going to windward they do pretty well.
I used to be in the business of selling and installing autopilots in the 
mid-90s and what we learned then was you want the BIGGEST drive you can fit and 
afford, not the smallest drive you think might work. We used Octopus brand 
(division of Teleflex) hydraulic drives for all our installs. They worked fine 
with Raytheon and other autopilot brands. We never did like the electric linear 
drives and tried to stay away from them. You really need to know what you are 
doing or hire a pro to install the drive. The forces it can produce are enough 
to do real damage to a boat if you set it up wrong. BTW, for long distance 
sailing I read about adapting a tiller pilot to the bottom half of a windvane 
steering system. This used almost no power and the tiller pilots are cheap 
enough to carry spares.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

Joe is correct about the mounting having to be really solid. A new Beneteau 40 
something arrived in Halifax with a non-functioning autohelm. I found the ram 
had torn right out of the 3/4" bulkhead to which it had been bolted with no 
backing board leaving a neat square hole. Messy. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-03-26, at 12:07, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

We loved the hydraulic units because a hydraulic ram is nearly indestructible. 
The only thing that can really go wrong is a bad seal and that can be fixed 
anywhere in the world. A bad pump can be swapped out fairly easily in a remote 
spot. When the rudder was not supposed to be moving the hydraulics lock it in 
place with much less strain on the device than the mechanical drives. The 
linear drives are more fiddly, with gears and bearings. They would tend to get 
chewed up under heavy use and are not easily fixable in Samoa or Bermuda – they 
pretty much have to go back home for repairs. Remember this is me spending 
other people’s money ;) Now if you already have a linear drive it isn’t like it 
won’t work – they will steer the boat. In your install make SURE there is no 
lost motion with the mount flexing. That will feed back through the rudder 
sensor and the thing will endlessly be going back and forth. We had boats where 
the HULL flexed enough to cause this issue and we had to get reinforcements 
glassed in.
 
Joe Della Barba – owner of a really cheap old autopilot
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 10:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots
 
Joe,
 
In light of your last post I have some questions. Mainly because I seem to have 
set about adding an under-deck autopilot doing exactly the opposite of your 
recommendations. I’m not trying to be contrary and am very interested in your 
take on the matter.
 
After yeoman’s service on my 37’ (~15,500 lbs) the old Raymarine ST4000 
succumbed and went on to the choir invisible. That after being rebuilt once and 
I too got the “please don’t call us again" message. And frankly, I was done 
with wheel pilots. I didn’t care for the noise or the “clutch on/clutch off” 
aspects of the type.
 
I purchased a Raymarine Type 1 Linear Autopilot and (then new) ST5000 course 
computer with auto-gyro. I went with the linear drive for two reasons: cost and 
perceived value. The value part being that I’ve used several of the 
tillerpilots, one on a Cal 40 and have been very impressed with their power, 
simplicity and ruggedness.
 
So, my questions to you are 1.) did I goof with the linear drive as regards my 
boat and by doing my installation will I regret it? Also, what is it about 
linear drives that are problematic from your perspective? (Bonus question!)
 
I should describe my installation (and I can provide pictures via email…). 
Because the ONLY access to the stern and port quarter is to contort myself and 
slither aft from the starboard cockpit locker and this would be compromised by 
permanently placing the drive there (base of the drive unit outboard with the 
arm extending inwards to the quadrant I decided to make the mounting base for 
the drive removable.
 
I tabbed two short sections of ½ fiberglass sheet material (McMaster-Carr) to 
the hull, fabricated a U-shaped platform, again using ½” sheet stock with 90 
degree angle ¼” stock to reinforce the inside of the platform structure. This I 
then fit down inside the two tabs and bolted the whole assemblytogether with 
four ¼” SS bolts, fender washers and Nylock nuts. The linear drive was bolted 
to the top of the platform. This way, if the need arises to get aft I can 
unbolt the whole mess…
 
So, workable? Mistake?
 
Cheers,
Dave
1982 – C&C 37 “Ronin”

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 26, 2013, at 9:11 AM, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

I have an AH 400 unit from about 1988, so it has been working for 25 years now. 
Kind of like George Washington’s ax, the drive and the computer have all been 
repaired more than once.  This is no thanks to Autohelm/Raytheon/RayMarine, who 
told me to NEVER send it in again for repairs again after fixing it around 1994 
or so. These are light duty autopilots that cannot handle heavy air going 
downwind. Going to windward they do pretty well.
I used to be in the business of selling and installing autopilots in the 
mid-90s and what we learned then was you want the BIGGEST drive you can fit and 
afford, not the smallest drive you think might work. We used Octopus brand 
(division of Teleflex) hydraulic drives for all our installs. They worked fine 
with Raytheon and other autopilot brands. We never did like the electric linear 
drives and tried to stay away from them. You really need to know what you are 
doing or hire a pro to install the drive. The forces it can produce are enough 
to do real damage to a boat if you set it up wrong. BTW, for long distance 
sailing I read about adapting a tiller pilot to the bottom h

Stus-List C&C 24 Keel Lift Point

2013-03-26 Thread ok

Wondering if anyone has modified their C&C 24 to have a single lifting point 
from the the keel bolts.  The Ranger 23 next to me has had this modification 
done.  Would work much better with my club lift and trailer than straps. 

Also, anyone have a pic of their C&C 24 bilge?  Just want to see if my bolts 
are as they should be and original.  For close to the same weight keel, my 
bolts seem oversized compared to the Ranger 23 next to me.  I'm thinking if 
they are original they will be strong enough for a single lift point?

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Stus-List Autopilots

2013-03-26 Thread Peter Haddon

Dave,

I installed Garmin's GHP12 sailboat under cockpit autopilot with a Jefa linear 
drive. Sounds as though I faced similar installation issues as you encountered. 
I used the Edson tiller arm on the rudder post and the drive is bolted to a 
solid wood mounting pad on the hull, port side. The pad is 10 inches square, 
epoxied to the hull.

Installation was completed in June 2011. No issues to date. 

Regards, Peter 
1982 C&C 37 

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2013 11:38:24 -0400
From: Dave Godwin 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots
Message-ID: <74325687-6321-43a4-bdf2-3449d9e0d...@me.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Joe, thanks. Good points about the flexing issues. I know that the mounts for 
the setup that I constructed are rock solid but now I?m rethinking the 
placement issue vis-?-vis the hull. I can imagine the hull flexing in that 
location. The nearest bulkhead is a good 18? or better away.
 
I have no current plans to go to Bermuda nor do major offshore work. Bahamas at 
most. 90% on the Bay I suspect, with the occasional trip to New England. I 
think that I?ll spend time monitoring the system, particularly in heavy seas 
whenever I find myself in those conditions. If it proves to be a problem then 
I?ll go back and reinforce the hull in that area.
 
Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 ? ?Ronin?

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Stus-List C&C 32 Securing Anchor on Bow

2013-03-26 Thread Al Woods

I have a Delta 22lb fast set that I would like to keep on the bow roller on
my 32 occasionally.   Last year I rigged up something with carabiners and
nylon webbing that was not particularly elegant or secure.  I have
purchased 2 different anchor tensioners that I have not have the courage to
install (Windline & Lewmar).  How can I secure that thing up there with the
least amount of work?

Al Woods
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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

2013-03-26 Thread LKL Architects

All these posts are really good timing for me and Finesse,  85 Landfall 39 
(19,500 displacement).  Until now...was pretty much sold on Raymarine P70, X-10 
Type 1 mechanical linear drive which is rated up to 24,000 lbs.  Plan to cruise 
Florida and onto Eastern Caribbean.

Joe based on your commentswould appreciated your thoughts if this is 
cutting it too close when loaded and with my destination should I abandon the 
mechanical drive for the hydraulicappreciate your thoughts and all 
othersand thank you in advance.

Lloyd Lippe
Rockport, Texas
  - Original Message - 
  From: Della Barba, Joe 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 8:11 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots


  I have an AH 400 unit from about 1988, so it has been working for 25 years 
now. Kind of like George Washington's ax, the drive and the computer have all 
been repaired more than once.  This is no thanks to 
Autohelm/Raytheon/RayMarine, who told me to NEVER send it in again for repairs 
again after fixing it around 1994 or so. These are light duty autopilots that 
cannot handle heavy air going downwind. Going to windward they do pretty well.

  I used to be in the business of selling and installing autopilots in the 
mid-90s and what we learned then was you want the BIGGEST drive you can fit and 
afford, not the smallest drive you think might work. We used Octopus brand 
(division of Teleflex) hydraulic drives for all our installs. They worked fine 
with Raytheon and other autopilot brands. We never did like the electric linear 
drives and tried to stay away from them. You really need to know what you are 
doing or hire a pro to install the drive. The forces it can produce are enough 
to do real damage to a boat if you set it up wrong. BTW, for long distance 
sailing I read about adapting a tiller pilot to the bottom half of a windvane 
steering system. This used almost no power and the tiller pilots are cheap 
enough to carry spares.

   

   

  Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I



--


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Re: Stus-List more LF38's [was Rainproof case for iPad]

Fred,

Come to Annapolis Sunday.  Temps in the 50s, southerly winds 8-10.  I plan
to shove off late morning.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Tue, Mar 26, 2013 at 11:04 AM, Frederick G Street wrote:

> Up here in northern Minnesota/Wisconsin (almost Canada…), being on the
> hard is an annual event as the water freezes solid.  Here's a satellite
> picture of Lake Superior from almost exactly four years ago -- the area I
> primarily sail is the grouping of islands near the western end of the lake:
>
> http://www.crh.noaa.gov/images/mqt/Lake%20Superior%20ice%20Mar3_09tbig.jpg
>
> So all the boats in the marinas are hauled out and put on cradles or
> jackstands in the parking lot.  That means about 120 boats, mostly sail, at
> the marina where I keep my boat.  It does get a bit crowded; you can
> literally walk all the way across the large parking lot by stepping from
> one deck to the next -- something like this, but a lot closer together, and
> with much more snow:
>
> http://www.clydemarina.com/images/winter_storage.jpg
>
> I expect to launch sometime in May, with any luck -- but it's been a very
> snowy late winter here, so it's hard to tell.  I'd be very happy to trade
> boats with you for a while, since you're so looking forward to being on the
> hard, and I'd love to be somewhere with warm water for a change…   :^)
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
> On Mar 26, 2013, at 6:03 AM, Anthony Mitchell 
> wrote:
>
> When do you think you will get off the hard? We will be up for a pretty
> major refit after this stint as well, because the boat has been in remote
> locations for a long time now and has been maintained out of suitcases. It
> will be nice to get onto the hard for some serious work :)
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___
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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

2013-03-26 Thread Dave Godwin

Joe, thanks. Good points about the flexing issues. I know that the mounts for 
the setup that I constructed are rock solid but now I’m rethinking the 
placement issue vis-à-vis the hull. I can imagine the hull flexing in that 
location. The nearest bulkhead is a good 18” or better away.
 
I have no current plans to go to Bermuda nor do major offshore work. Bahamas at 
most. 90% on the Bay I suspect, with the occasional trip to New England. I 
think that I’ll spend time monitoring the system, particularly in heavy seas 
whenever I find myself in those conditions. If it proves to be a problem then 
I’ll go back and reinforce the hull in that area.
 
Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 – “Ronin”

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 26, 2013, at 11:07 AM, "Della Barba, Joe"  
wrote:

> We loved the hydraulic units because a hydraulic ram is nearly 
> indestructible. The only thing that can really go wrong is a bad seal and 
> that can be fixed anywhere in the world. A bad pump can be swapped out fairly 
> easily in a remote spot. When the rudder was not supposed to be moving the 
> hydraulics lock it in place with much less strain on the device than the 
> mechanical drives. The linear drives are more fiddly, with gears and 
> bearings. They would tend to get chewed up under heavy use and are not easily 
> fixable in Samoa or Bermuda – they pretty much have to go back home for 
> repairs. Remember this is me spending other people’s money ;) Now if you 
> already have a linear drive it isn’t like it won’t work – they will steer the 
> boat. In your install make SURE there is no lost motion with the mount 
> flexing. That will feed back through the rudder sensor and the thing will 
> endlessly be going back and forth. We had boats where the HULL flexed enough 
> to cause this issue and we had to get reinforcements glassed in.
>  
> Joe Della Barba – owner of a really cheap old autopilot
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin
> Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 10:19 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots
>  
> Joe,
>  
> In light of your last post I have some questions. Mainly because I seem to 
> have set about adding an under-deck autopilot doing exactly the opposite of 
> your recommendations. I’m not trying to be contrary and am very interested in 
> your take on the matter.
>  
> After yeoman’s service on my 37’ (~15,500 lbs) the old Raymarine ST4000 
> succumbed and went on to the choir invisible. That after being rebuilt once 
> and I too got the “please don’t call us again" message. And frankly, I was 
> done with wheel pilots. I didn’t care for the noise or the “clutch on/clutch 
> off” aspects of the type.
>  
> I purchased a Raymarine Type 1 Linear Autopilot and (then new) ST5000 course 
> computer with auto-gyro. I went with the linear drive for two reasons: cost 
> and perceived value. The value part being that I’ve used several of the 
> tillerpilots, one on a Cal 40 and have been very impressed with their power, 
> simplicity and ruggedness.
>  
> So, my questions to you are 1.) did I goof with the linear drive as regards 
> my boat and by doing my installation will I regret it? Also, what is it about 
> linear drives that are problematic from your perspective? (Bonus question!)
>  
> I should describe my installation (and I can provide pictures via email…). 
> Because the ONLY access to the stern and port quarter is to contort myself 
> and slither aft from the starboard cockpit locker and this would be 
> compromised by permanently placing the drive there (base of the drive unit 
> outboard with the arm extending inwards to the quadrant I decided to make the 
> mounting base for the drive removable.
>  
> I tabbed two short sections of ½ fiberglass sheet material (McMaster-Carr) to 
> the hull, fabricated a U-shaped platform, again using ½” sheet stock with 90 
> degree angle ¼” stock to reinforce the inside of the platform structure. This 
> I then fit down inside the two tabs and bolted the whole assemblytogether 
> with four ¼” SS bolts, fender washers and Nylock nuts. The linear drive was 
> bolted to the top of the platform. This way, if the need arises to get aft I 
> can unbolt the whole mess…
>  
> So, workable? Mistake?
>  
> Cheers,
> Dave
> 1982 – C&C 37 “Ronin”
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Mar 26, 2013, at 9:11 AM, "Della Barba, Joe"  
> wrote:
> 
> I have an AH 400 unit from about 1988, so it has been working for 25 years 
> now. Kind of like George Washington’s ax, the drive and the computer have all 
> been repaired more than once.  This is no thanks to 
> Autohelm/Raytheon/RayMarine, who told me to NEVER send it in again for 
> repairs again after fixing it around 1994 or so. These are light duty 
> autopilots that cannot handle heavy air going downwind. Going to windward 
> they do pretty well.
> I used to be in the business of selling and installing autopilots in the 
> mid-90s and what we learned then was you want the BIGGES

Stus-List Annapolis area mechanic

For the last several years my business partner and I I have used Karl
Allen, Karl's Marine Service, to do the mechanical stuff we didn't want to
do/couldn't do.  He did good work at a fair price, but I can't get a hold
of him.  In fact, he never billed either of us for the work he did to
winterize the boat!

I've got a Yanmar, my business partner has a Volvo/Penta.

Any recommendations?

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

We used the 1990s version of that.

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 11:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots

I'd definitely use this drive with a Raymarine corepack:

http://www.savinglots.com/lotprod.asp?item=OCTAF1212LAM12

Cheaper than the Raymarine linear drive, too.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 26, 2013, at 10:07 AM, "Della Barba, Joe" 
mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>> wrote:

We loved the hydraulic units because a hydraulic ram is nearly indestructible. 
The only thing that can really go wrong is a bad seal and that can be fixed 
anywhere in the world. A bad pump can be swapped out fairly easily in a remote 
spot. When the rudder was not supposed to be moving the hydraulics lock it in 
place with much less strain on the device than the mechanical drives. The 
linear drives are more fiddly, with gears and bearings. They would tend to get 
chewed up under heavy use and are not easily fixable in Samoa or Bermuda - they 
pretty much have to go back home for repairs. Remember this is me spending 
other people's money ;) Now if you already have a linear drive it isn't like it 
won't work - they will steer the boat. In your install make SURE there is no 
lost motion with the mount flexing. That will feed back through the rudder 
sensor and the thing will endlessly be going back and forth. We had boats where 
the HULL flexed enough to cause this issue and we had to get reinforcements 
glassed in.

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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

Pretty much - most drives will work with any autopilot computer that can supply 
enough current to run it.

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 11:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots

That's the drive I have on the Enterprise. It's my Robertson unit that won't 
run it anymore.

So any control unit could be attached to this?

  All the best,

  Edd

  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
Website

On Mar 26, 2013, at 11:21 AM, Frederick G Street 
mailto:f...@postaudio.net>> wrote:

I'd definitely use this drive with a Raymarine corepack:

http://www.savinglots.com/lotprod.asp?item=OCTAF1212LAM12

Cheaper than the Raymarine linear drive, too.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 26, 2013, at 10:07 AM, "Della Barba, Joe" 
mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>> wrote:

We loved the hydraulic units because a hydraulic ram is nearly indestructible. 
The only thing that can really go wrong is a bad seal and that can be fixed 
anywhere in the world. A bad pump can be swapped out fairly easily in a remote 
spot. When the rudder was not supposed to be moving the hydraulics lock it in 
place with much less strain on the device than the mechanical drives. The 
linear drives are more fiddly, with gears and bearings. They would tend to get 
chewed up under heavy use and are not easily fixable in Samoa or Bermuda - they 
pretty much have to go back home for repairs. Remember this is me spending 
other people's money ;) Now if you already have a linear drive it isn't like it 
won't work - they will steer the boat. In your install make SURE there is no 
lost motion with the mount flexing. That will feed back through the rudder 
sensor and the thing will endlessly be going back and forth. We had boats where 
the HULL flexed enough to cause this issue and we had to get reinforcements 
glassed in.

___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

2013-03-26 Thread Edd Schillay

That's the drive I have on the Enterprise. It's my Robertson unit that won't 
run it anymore. 

So any control unit could be attached to this?




All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website



On Mar 26, 2013, at 11:21 AM, Frederick G Street  wrote:

> I'd definitely use this drive with a Raymarine corepack:
> 
> http://www.savinglots.com/lotprod.asp?item=OCTAF1212LAM12
> 
> Cheaper than the Raymarine linear drive, too.
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> On Mar 26, 2013, at 10:07 AM, "Della Barba, Joe"  
> wrote:
> 
>> We loved the hydraulic units because a hydraulic ram is nearly 
>> indestructible. The only thing that can really go wrong is a bad seal and 
>> that can be fixed anywhere in the world. A bad pump can be swapped out 
>> fairly easily in a remote spot. When the rudder was not supposed to be 
>> moving the hydraulics lock it in place with much less strain on the device 
>> than the mechanical drives. The linear drives are more fiddly, with gears 
>> and bearings. They would tend to get chewed up under heavy use and are not 
>> easily fixable in Samoa or Bermuda – they pretty much have to go back home 
>> for repairs. Remember this is me spending other people’s money ;) Now if you 
>> already have a linear drive it isn’t like it won’t work – they will steer 
>> the boat. In your install make SURE there is no lost motion with the mount 
>> flexing. That will feed back through the rudder sensor and the thing will 
>> endlessly be going back and forth. We had boats where the HULL flexed enough 
>> to cause this issue and we had to get reinforcements glassed in.
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

I'd definitely use this drive with a Raymarine corepack:

http://www.savinglots.com/lotprod.asp?item=OCTAF1212LAM12

Cheaper than the Raymarine linear drive, too.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 26, 2013, at 10:07 AM, "Della Barba, Joe"  
wrote:

> We loved the hydraulic units because a hydraulic ram is nearly 
> indestructible. The only thing that can really go wrong is a bad seal and 
> that can be fixed anywhere in the world. A bad pump can be swapped out fairly 
> easily in a remote spot. When the rudder was not supposed to be moving the 
> hydraulics lock it in place with much less strain on the device than the 
> mechanical drives. The linear drives are more fiddly, with gears and 
> bearings. They would tend to get chewed up under heavy use and are not easily 
> fixable in Samoa or Bermuda – they pretty much have to go back home for 
> repairs. Remember this is me spending other people’s money ;) Now if you 
> already have a linear drive it isn’t like it won’t work – they will steer the 
> boat. In your install make SURE there is no lost motion with the mount 
> flexing. That will feed back through the rudder sensor and the thing will 
> endlessly be going back and forth. We had boats where the HULL flexed enough 
> to cause this issue and we had to get reinforcements glassed in.

___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Autopilots

We loved the hydraulic units because a hydraulic ram is nearly indestructible. 
The only thing that can really go wrong is a bad seal and that can be fixed 
anywhere in the world. A bad pump can be swapped out fairly easily in a remote 
spot. When the rudder was not supposed to be moving the hydraulics lock it in 
place with much less strain on the device than the mechanical drives. The 
linear drives are more fiddly, with gears and bearings. They would tend to get 
chewed up under heavy use and are not easily fixable in Samoa or Bermuda – they 
pretty much have to go back home for repairs. Remember this is me spending 
other people’s money ;) Now if you already have a linear drive it isn’t like it 
won’t work – they will steer the boat. In your install make SURE there is no 
lost motion with the mount flexing. That will feed back through the rudder 
sensor and the thing will endlessly be going back and forth. We had boats where 
the HULL flexed enough to cause this issue and we had to get reinforcements 
glassed in.

Joe Della Barba – owner of a really cheap old autopilot

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 10:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots


Joe,



In light of your last post I have some questions. Mainly because I seem to have 
set about adding an under-deck autopilot doing exactly the opposite of your 
recommendations. I’m not trying to be contrary and am very interested in your 
take on the matter.



After yeoman’s service on my 37’ (~15,500 lbs) the old Raymarine ST4000 
succumbed and went on to the choir invisible. That after being rebuilt once and 
I too got the “please don’t call us again" message. And frankly, I was done 
with wheel pilots. I didn’t care for the noise or the “clutch on/clutch off” 
aspects of the type.



I purchased a Raymarine Type 1 Linear Autopilot and (then new) ST5000 course 
computer with auto-gyro. I went with the linear drive for two reasons: cost and 
perceived value. The value part being that I’ve used several of the 
tillerpilots, one on a Cal 40 and have been very impressed with their power, 
simplicity and ruggedness.



So, my questions to you are 1.) did I goof with the linear drive as regards my 
boat and by doing my installation will I regret it? Also, what is it about 
linear drives that are problematic from your perspective? (Bonus question!)



I should describe my installation (and I can provide pictures via email…). 
Because the ONLY access to the stern and port quarter is to contort myself and 
slither aft from the starboard cockpit locker and this would be compromised by 
permanently placing the drive there (base of the drive unit outboard with the 
arm extending inwards to the quadrant I decided to make the mounting base for 
the drive removable.



I tabbed two short sections of ½ fiberglass sheet material (McMaster-Carr) to 
the hull, fabricated a U-shaped platform, again using ½” sheet stock with 90 
degree angle ¼” stock to reinforce the inside of the platform structure. This I 
then fit down inside the two tabs and bolted the whole assemblytogether with 
four ¼” SS bolts, fender washers and Nylock nuts. The linear drive was bolted 
to the top of the platform. This way, if the need arises to get aft I can 
unbolt the whole mess…



So, workable? Mistake?



Cheers,

Dave

1982 – C&C 37 “Ronin”

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 26, 2013, at 9:11 AM, "Della Barba, Joe" 
mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>> wrote:
I have an AH 400 unit from about 1988, so it has been working for 25 years now. 
Kind of like George Washington’s ax, the drive and the computer have all been 
repaired more than once.  This is no thanks to Autohelm/Raytheon/RayMarine, who 
told me to NEVER send it in again for repairs again after fixing it around 1994 
or so. These are light duty autopilots that cannot handle heavy air going 
downwind. Going to windward they do pretty well.
I used to be in the business of selling and installing autopilots in the 
mid-90s and what we learned then was you want the BIGGEST drive you can fit and 
afford, not the smallest drive you think might work. We used Octopus brand 
(division of Teleflex) hydraulic drives for all our installs. They worked fine 
with Raytheon and other autopilot brands. We never did like the electric linear 
drives and tried to stay away from them. You really need to know what you are 
doing or hire a pro to install the drive. The forces it can produce are enough 
to do real damage to a boat if you set it up wrong. BTW, for long distance 
sailing I read about adapting a tiller pilot to the bottom half of a windvane 
steering system. This used almost no power and the tiller pilots are cheap 
enough to carry spares.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I
___
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Re: Stus-List more LF38's [was Rainproof case for iPad]

Up here in northern Minnesota/Wisconsin (almost Canada…), being on the hard is 
an annual event as the water freezes solid.  Here's a satellite picture of Lake 
Superior from almost exactly four years ago -- the area I primarily sail is the 
grouping of islands near the western end of the lake:

http://www.crh.noaa.gov/images/mqt/Lake%20Superior%20ice%20Mar3_09tbig.jpg

So all the boats in the marinas are hauled out and put on cradles or jackstands 
in the parking lot.  That means about 120 boats, mostly sail, at the marina 
where I keep my boat.  It does get a bit crowded; you can literally walk all 
the way across the large parking lot by stepping from one deck to the next -- 
something like this, but a lot closer together, and with much more snow:

http://www.clydemarina.com/images/winter_storage.jpg

I expect to launch sometime in May, with any luck -- but it's been a very snowy 
late winter here, so it's hard to tell.  I'd be very happy to trade boats with 
you for a while, since you're so looking forward to being on the hard, and I'd 
love to be somewhere with warm water for a change…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 26, 2013, at 6:03 AM, Anthony Mitchell  wrote:

> When do you think you will get off the hard? We will be up for a pretty major 
> refit after this stint as well, because the boat has been in remote locations 
> for a long time now and has been maintained out of suitcases. It will be nice 
> to get onto the hard for some serious work :)

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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

MAC should have read nav. Phones

Also the A4000 is an under deck unit. Love it like a dishwasher. Always there 
when you need it. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-03-26, at 11:15, Knowles Rich  wrote:

I bought Indigo in 1997 and inherited a minimum 8 year old Autohelm 4000 with 
an electric linear drive. It has worked faithfully since with no needed repairs 
other than a periodic cleaning and lubrication of the drive helix mechanism 
which I do myself in less than an hour. I found another control head and have 
one at the helm and the other by the MAC station just beside the companionway 
near the radar and chart plotter. If I sit on the bridge deck with my feet on 
the stairs,  I can drive the boat from under the dodger and keep warm. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-03-26, at 10:11, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

I have an AH 400 unit from about 1988, so it has been working for 25 years now. 
Kind of like George Washington’s ax, the drive and the computer have all been 
repaired more than once.  This is no thanks to Autohelm/Raytheon/RayMarine, who 
told me to NEVER send it in again for repairs again after fixing it around 1994 
or so. These are light duty autopilots that cannot handle heavy air going 
downwind. Going to windward they do pretty well.
I used to be in the business of selling and installing autopilots in the 
mid-90s and what we learned then was you want the BIGGEST drive you can fit and 
afford, not the smallest drive you think might work. We used Octopus brand 
(division of Teleflex) hydraulic drives for all our installs. They worked fine 
with Raytheon and other autopilot brands. We never did like the electric linear 
drives and tried to stay away from them. You really need to know what you are 
doing or hire a pro to install the drive. The forces it can produce are enough 
to do real damage to a boat if you set it up wrong. BTW, for long distance 
sailing I read about adapting a tiller pilot to the bottom half of a windvane 
steering system. This used almost no power and the tiller pilots are cheap 
enough to carry spares.
 
 
Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I
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Stus-List Bottom Paint

2013-03-26 Thread Robert Gallagher

I came into some PETTIT HORIZONS PRO at a steep discount.
It appears to be the same stuff now marketed as PETTIT ULTRA SR40.
Defender had it on sale for $40 a gallon, yes $40!  I should have bought
out the lot right then and there but I didn't.  I did go back after the
sale ended and purchase a lot.
I did NOT get it for $40 but I still did pretty good.
I'm selling it on ebay and craigslist for $100/gallon.

If any one from this list in the CT/RI/MA area is interested, I'll let it
go for $85 and $5 of that will get donated to the cncphotoalbum.com  I'll
deliver to you if its 2 gallon minimum and a reasonable drive.

The problem is the color.  There was a mistake at the factory and the batch
came out with a purplish hue.  If mixed with 25% black paint it turns black
(or pretty darn close).

The Pettit area had a sample that was one gallon of Horizons PRO (purple)
mixed with one quart of Ultra SR40 (black) painted on a block of wood and
it looked black to me.

Anyway, it's bottom paint and it's cheap.  The SR40 lists for over $250 a
gallon and you can't find it anywhere for less than $180+shipping.  I think
$85 is fair.

I will also ship it, shipping is $20 - $30 depending on your location.

Contact me off list at trys...@gmail.com or call me at 860-389-6900

Thanks,

Rob
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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

2013-03-26 Thread Dave Godwin

Joe,

In light of your last post I have some questions. Mainly because I seem to have 
set about adding an under-deck autopilot doing exactly the opposite of your 
recommendations. I’m not trying to be contrary and am very interested in your 
take on the matter.

After yeoman’s service on my 37’ (~15,500 lbs) the old Raymarine ST4000 
succumbed and went on to the choir invisible. That after being rebuilt once and 
I too got the “please don’t call us again" message. And frankly, I was done 
with wheel pilots. I didn’t care for the noise or the “clutch on/clutch off” 
aspects of the type.

I purchased a Raymarine Type 1 Linear Autopilot and (then new) ST5000 course 
computer with auto-gyro. I went with the linear drive for two reasons: cost and 
perceived value. The value part being that I’ve used several of the 
tillerpilots, one on a Cal 40 and have been very impressed with their power, 
simplicity and ruggedness.

So, my questions to you are 1.) did I goof with the linear drive as regards my 
boat and by doing my installation will I regret it? Also, what is it about 
linear drives that are problematic from your perspective? (Bonus question!)

I should describe my installation (and I can provide pictures via email…). 
Because the ONLY access to the stern and port quarter is to contort myself and 
slither aft from the starboard cockpit locker and this would be compromised by 
permanently placing the drive there (base of the drive unit outboard with the 
arm extending inwards to the quadrant I decided to make the mounting base for 
the drive removable.

I tabbed two short sections of ½ fiberglass sheet material (McMaster-Carr) to 
the hull, fabricated a U-shaped platform, again using ½” sheet stock with 90 
degree angle ¼” stock to reinforce the inside of the platform structure. This I 
then fit down inside the two tabs and bolted the whole assemblytogether with 
four ¼” SS bolts, fender washers and Nylock nuts. The linear drive was bolted 
to the top of the platform. This way, if the need arises to get aft I can 
unbolt the whole mess…

So, workable? Mistake?

Cheers,
Dave
1982 – C&C 37 “Ronin”

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 26, 2013, at 9:11 AM, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

> I have an AH 400 unit from about 1988, so it has been working for 25 years 
> now. Kind of like George Washington’s ax, the drive and the computer have all 
> been repaired more than once.  This is no thanks to 
> Autohelm/Raytheon/RayMarine, who told me to NEVER send it in again for 
> repairs again after fixing it around 1994 or so. These are light duty 
> autopilots that cannot handle heavy air going downwind. Going to windward 
> they do pretty well.
> I used to be in the business of selling and installing autopilots in the 
> mid-90s and what we learned then was you want the BIGGEST drive you can fit 
> and afford, not the smallest drive you think might work. We used Octopus 
> brand (division of Teleflex) hydraulic drives for all our installs. They 
> worked fine with Raytheon and other autopilot brands. We never did like the 
> electric linear drives and tried to stay away from them. You really need to 
> know what you are doing or hire a pro to install the drive. The forces it can 
> produce are enough to do real damage to a boat if you set it up wrong. BTW, 
> for long distance sailing I read about adapting a tiller pilot to the bottom 
> half of a windvane steering system. This used almost no power and the tiller 
> pilots are cheap enough to carry spares.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

I bought Indigo in 1997 and inherited a minimum 8 year old Autohelm 4000 with 
an electric linear drive. It has worked faithfully since with no needed repairs 
other than a periodic cleaning and lubrication of the drive helix mechanism 
which I do myself in less than an hour. I found another control head and have 
one at the helm and the other by the MAC station just beside the companionway 
near the radar and chart plotter. If I sit on the bridge deck with my feet on 
the stairs,  I can drive the boat from under the dodger and keep warm. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-03-26, at 10:11, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

I have an AH 400 unit from about 1988, so it has been working for 25 years now. 
Kind of like George Washington’s ax, the drive and the computer have all been 
repaired more than once.  This is no thanks to Autohelm/Raytheon/RayMarine, who 
told me to NEVER send it in again for repairs again after fixing it around 1994 
or so. These are light duty autopilots that cannot handle heavy air going 
downwind. Going to windward they do pretty well.
I used to be in the business of selling and installing autopilots in the 
mid-90s and what we learned then was you want the BIGGEST drive you can fit and 
afford, not the smallest drive you think might work. We used Octopus brand 
(division of Teleflex) hydraulic drives for all our installs. They worked fine 
with Raytheon and other autopilot brands. We never did like the electric linear 
drives and tried to stay away from them. You really need to know what you are 
doing or hire a pro to install the drive. The forces it can produce are enough 
to do real damage to a boat if you set it up wrong. BTW, for long distance 
sailing I read about adapting a tiller pilot to the bottom half of a windvane 
steering system. This used almost no power and the tiller pilots are cheap 
enough to carry spares.
 
 
Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List PHRF Chesapeake

2013-03-26 Thread Tim Goodyear

With you there Mike; cruising would also be much less comfortable and would
probably end up costing more in hotel rooms for the admiral.  The
solution may be two boats, but my TLOA recently crept up to 145' with a
couple more SUP's...

Tim

On Tue, Mar 26, 2013 at 8:37 AM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:

> **
> Tim
>
> You could always sell your boat and get a Melges 24, 32 or something of
> that ilk.  Then by the time the boats like you now have get in all your
> cerw would be gone because THERE IS NOT INTERIOR to relax in afterward!
> Fast is nice on light boats but you give up an awful lot to have that boat
> that moves that well in light wind.
>
> Have a friend who has a 1D35.  Used to have a Santanna 35.  Says he misses
> being able to socialize inside the boat after a race and that the crew all
> takes off shortly after arriving at dock
>
> Just saying,
>
> Mike
>
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Re: Stus-List PHRF Chesapeake - MH vs Frac - 24?

Sorry, I should have been clearer - J-24 - belongs to a friend - we have been 
racing together for over 10 years, sometimes he has raced on Penniless (my 
30-1) and I have raced on his j-24. We raced together on another friend's J-80, 
but I dropped off that one (too intense for me) to move to another J-80 for 
Wednesdays and Saturdays. 

This year, we will race the J-24 on Fridays (in Oxford) and be on different 
J-80's for Wednesdays and Saturdays and on my Penniless for the Jib and Main 
series on Sundays (he will miss some of these). And we will probably use 
Penniless for a three race Frostbite in the fall.

Gotta get in my 40 races a year.

Gary
St. Michaels MD
  - Original Message - 
  From: Hoyt, Mike 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 9:04 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Chesapeake - MH vs Frac - 24?


  Gary 

  J24?  Sure sounds like it when you say fractional 24 and spongy deck!  Also 
on the J24 is quite a tapered mast so agree only use MH chute in light wind.

  Of course I may be mistaken and teh C&C24 could have been made fractional but 
I believe is MH



--
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander
  Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 9:59 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Chesapeake


  Agreed. We took a six second hit for the masthead chute. We sail mostly in 
light air, so are careful - the last few feet of the mast are only supported by 
the back stay, as the shrouds come out of the mast at the same level as the 
fractional chute and forestay. 

  We, as I said earlier, only fly the masthead in lighter conditions, opting 
for the fractional in more robust wind. Needless to say, we don't do any power 
reaching

  We 'think' that overall, the six seconds is worth it because of our lighter 
conditions - it is really cool to pass the other 24's on a downwind run - and 
hope you make up enough distance to overcome the handicap.

  We are going to use the 24 in a different venue this year, after a two year 
re-fit (leaks and some spongy deck) where they have a little more wind - it 
will be interesting to see how that works out - I'm driving and am a coward, so 
we may be more conservative about which chute to put in the bag

  Gary
  I still have the C&C 30 for Jib and Main sailing (and the ex-admirals mid 
week romps).
- Original Message - 
From: Hoyt, Mike 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 8:32 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Chesapeake


That would be an adjustment and the handicap would take a hit for it ... 
unless it was one of the newer boats like Farr 30 or similar that has masthead 
chute and fractional rig as a standard design.  One note - changing a 
fractional boat to fly a masthead chute puts other than designed for forces on 
the mast and rigging.  Some vessels are not adequate to this change...




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob 
Moriarty
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2013 6:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Chesapeake


I have very little experience with spinnakers. 


How does one fly a spinnaker from the masthead of a fractionally rigged 
boat? Might there be a block on a crane? I would think there would only be a 
main halyard at the top of the mast.


Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Mon, Mar 25, 2013 at 2:06 PM, Gary Nylander  
wrote:

  ... or a masthead chute where the stock boat has a fractional ...





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Re: Stus-List Autopilots

I have an AH 400 unit from about 1988, so it has been working for 25 years now. 
Kind of like George Washington's ax, the drive and the computer have all been 
repaired more than once.  This is no thanks to Autohelm/Raytheon/RayMarine, who 
told me to NEVER send it in again for repairs again after fixing it around 1994 
or so. These are light duty autopilots that cannot handle heavy air going 
downwind. Going to windward they do pretty well.
I used to be in the business of selling and installing autopilots in the 
mid-90s and what we learned then was you want the BIGGEST drive you can fit and 
afford, not the smallest drive you think might work. We used Octopus brand 
(division of Teleflex) hydraulic drives for all our installs. They worked fine 
with Raytheon and other autopilot brands. We never did like the electric linear 
drives and tried to stay away from them. You really need to know what you are 
doing or hire a pro to install the drive. The forces it can produce are enough 
to do real damage to a boat if you set it up wrong. BTW, for long distance 
sailing I read about adapting a tiller pilot to the bottom half of a windvane 
steering system. This used almost no power and the tiller pilots are cheap 
enough to carry spares.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List PHRF Chesapeake - MH vs Frac - 24?

2013-03-26 Thread Hoyt, Mike

Gary 
 
J24?  Sure sounds like it when you say fractional 24 and spongy deck!
Also on the J24 is quite a tapered mast so agree only use MH chute in
light wind.
 
Of course I may be mistaken and teh C&C24 could have been made
fractional but I believe is MH



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 9:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Chesapeake


Agreed. We took a six second hit for the masthead chute. We sail mostly
in light air, so are careful - the last few feet of the mast are only
supported by the back stay, as the shrouds come out of the mast at the
same level as the fractional chute and forestay. 
 
We, as I said earlier, only fly the masthead in lighter conditions,
opting for the fractional in more robust wind. Needless to say, we don't
do any power reaching
 
We 'think' that overall, the six seconds is worth it because of our
lighter conditions - it is really cool to pass the other 24's on a
downwind run - and hope you make up enough distance to overcome the
handicap.
 
We are going to use the 24 in a different venue this year, after a two
year re-fit (leaks and some spongy deck) where they have a little more
wind - it will be interesting to see how that works out - I'm driving
and am a coward, so we may be more conservative about which chute to put
in the bag
 
Gary
I still have the C&C 30 for Jib and Main sailing (and the ex-admirals
mid week romps).

- Original Message - 
From: Hoyt, Mike   
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 8:32 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Chesapeake

That would be an adjustment and the handicap would take a hit
for it ... unless it was one of the newer boats like Farr 30 or similar
that has masthead chute and fractional rig as a standard design.  One
note - changing a fractional boat to fly a masthead chute puts other
than designed for forces on the mast and rigging.  Some vessels are not
adequate to this change...



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf
Of Bob Moriarty
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2013 6:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Chesapeake


I have very little experience with spinnakers. 

How does one fly a spinnaker from the masthead of a fractionally
rigged boat? Might there be a block on a crane? I would think there
would only be a main halyard at the top of the mast.

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Mon, Mar 25, 2013 at 2:06 PM, Gary Nylander
 wrote:



... or a masthead chute where the stock boat has a
fractional ...







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Re: Stus-List PHRF Chesapeake

Agreed. We took a six second hit for the masthead chute. We sail mostly in 
light air, so are careful - the last few feet of the mast are only supported by 
the back stay, as the shrouds come out of the mast at the same level as the 
fractional chute and forestay. 

We, as I said earlier, only fly the masthead in lighter conditions, opting for 
the fractional in more robust wind. Needless to say, we don't do any power 
reaching

We 'think' that overall, the six seconds is worth it because of our lighter 
conditions - it is really cool to pass the other 24's on a downwind run - and 
hope you make up enough distance to overcome the handicap.

We are going to use the 24 in a different venue this year, after a two year 
re-fit (leaks and some spongy deck) where they have a little more wind - it 
will be interesting to see how that works out - I'm driving and am a coward, so 
we may be more conservative about which chute to put in the bag

Gary
I still have the C&C 30 for Jib and Main sailing (and the ex-admirals mid week 
romps).
  - Original Message - 
  From: Hoyt, Mike 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 8:32 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Chesapeake


  That would be an adjustment and the handicap would take a hit for it ... 
unless it was one of the newer boats like Farr 30 or similar that has masthead 
chute and fractional rig as a standard design.  One note - changing a 
fractional boat to fly a masthead chute puts other than designed for forces on 
the mast and rigging.  Some vessels are not adequate to this change...



--
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob 
Moriarty
  Sent: Monday, March 25, 2013 6:42 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Chesapeake


  I have very little experience with spinnakers. 


  How does one fly a spinnaker from the masthead of a fractionally rigged boat? 
Might there be a block on a crane? I would think there would only be a main 
halyard at the top of the mast.


  Bob M
  Ox 33-1
  Jax, FL


  On Mon, Mar 25, 2013 at 2:06 PM, Gary Nylander  
wrote:

... or a masthead chute where the stock boat has a fractional ...


--


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Re: Stus-List Fw: Fw: (no subject) now AIS

I am very happy with my gear from Milltech. Pretty much all the Class B stuff 
uses the same chipset from what I can tell, so it isn’t like one works and the 
other ones don’t.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Persuasion
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2013 12:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fw: Fw: (no subject) now AIS

Joe

Raymarine/Garmin are names I know.  Joel mention SiTex and I check them out and 
liked what I saw.  Looked at Milltech but am still unsure.  I’m always open to 
recommendations.

Mike

From: Della Barba, Joe
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2013 8:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: (no subject) now AIS

I can’t think of any bad units, but those are not the cheapest ones out there.
Any reason you are not looking at the others? Do you need a display on the unit 
itself?

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Persuasion
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2013 8:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fw: (no subject) now AIS

Thanks to those that responded.  I’m now convinced I want an AIS.  The problem 
is which one.  It will be connected directly to the pc chart plotter.  The 
Raymarine, Garmin and SiTex (new to me) all look promising.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Joel Aronson
Sent: Friday, March 22, 2013 6:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

Bob
No I will connect it to the plotter.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C344%7C2028691%7C2028908&id=1849984

Joel Aronson

On Mar 22, 2013, at 6:37 PM, Bob Moriarty 
mailto:bobmo...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Joel,
Is this the SI-TEX unit that you were looking at?
http://www.si-tex.com/index.php/product-information/ais/sas-300-ais-class-b-ais-transceiver-detail

Although I don't have any of their hardware, I like the SI-TEX brand. They seem 
to occupy the "value" space. Value, like free wind, = good.  :-)

Full disclosure: I'm just a day-sailor who rarely ventures outside the mouth of 
the St Johns River in Florida. Despite this, I bought an MilTech AIS receiver 6 
or 7 years ago because I thought it was really cool and relatively inexpensive. 
It once picked up the signal from an old tugboat in for repairs at Green Cove 
Springs. w00t.

As for AIS (receivers), do folks think that a radar-like display of approaching 
targets is OK or even perhaps optimal?
Or, is it be important to be able to put the nearby boats in the context of a 
chart?

I know that many chart-plotters can interpret and display AIS data and predict 
potential collisions. But, might this be a good case for having a standalone 
unit, dedicated for nearby "situational awareness" - kinda like radar I 
suppose. Probably depends upon one's situation.  :-)

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Fri, Mar 22, 2013 at 12:14 PM, Joel Aronson 
mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>> wrote:
I've been looking at the Si Tex. built in GPS antenna. Good Price.

Joel Aronson

On Mar 22, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Persuasion 
mailto:persuasio...@gmail.com>> wrote:

> Hey Fellow C&Cers
>
> Thinking about my next boat project.  I'm looking for advise on an  AIS 
> transponder.  I'm thinking about a Class B.  Anyone been down this road that 
> can help?
>
> Thanks
>
> --
> Mike
> S/V Persuasion
> C&C 37 K/CB

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Re: Stus-List PHRF Chesapeake