Re: Stus-List BG interfacing
Jim, I haven't yet connected the VHF, but suspect it could be done two ways. Use the monster cable for 0183 or come off the NGW-1 gateway. From: firewa...@reinardy.us To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2014 09:20:40 -0500 Subject: Re: Stus-List BG interfacing Tony, Did you have to connect the giant video/data cable to do this, or did you find a more palatable way to do the wiring? I am interested in connecting my Simrad RS25 VHF to the Zeus for DSC. Thanks! Jim ReinardyCC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tony Wroblewski Sent: Friday, April 18, 2014 6:00 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List BG interfacing Some time ago I sent a post about interfacing a BG 390 system with current electronics, specifically the Zeus Touch series. For those interested, it works! The Zeus can take a 0183 input and NMEA 2000. The system interfaces both using the 0183 port directly without any conversion from the 0183 v.1.5 of the 390 and allows readings of AWS, AWD, TWS, TWD, BS, Heading and Log to come thru even though the Zeus is 0183 v. 4.0 . Also tried the NMEA 2000 route with an Actisense NGW-1 gateway and it works. Depth seems to be a problem since the Zeus has an internal ecosounder and I can't figure how to get the 390 depth reading yet. I have also taken the GPS/NAV data from the Zeus thru a NGW-1 gateway which converts 2000 to 0183 and sent it to the 390 input to get cross track, VMG, etc. info from the 390. My Raymarine autopilot also works either off the 390's output or directly from the Zeus NMEA 2000 buss. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List wiring solar panel to battery
Thanks for all the suggestions. The opening behind the fuel tank was visible from the rear compartment behind the water heater. I just did not realize what I was looking at until I stuck something through the hole. I used a tape measure to fish the messenger under the fuel tank and through the hole and then it was easy to grab the messenger once I was contorted appropriately in the rear compartment. I should be able to finish this job next time down. I will report back at some point on how well it all works. Dave On Apr 18, 2014, at 1:03 PM, Monty Schumpert jmschump...@verizon.net wrote: David, I have wiring running from the starboard lazarette under the fuel tank as mentioned, and I have wiring and plumbing from the starboard locker, where my heat pump resides, into the aft cabin and into the bilge either of which are close to the battery compartments. I have a converter mounted on the wall in the aft cabin just above the battery compartment and a line running from it to the vicinity of the nav table. I can take pictures if you need more info. Monty Scandia 1991 CC 34+ Annapolis, MD Sent from my iPad On Apr 18, 2014, at 10:34 AM, David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com wrote: Already fused at the battery thanks to previous messages (Thanks Joe!). Found these nice fuse holders at Defender that go on the battery post (http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2290021|2290030id=333199) that made that part easy. I had hoped to go the way David Blair suggested but crawling down around the water heater I could not see the path. I guess I am going to have to fold my 6’3” body in a bit more and try to find that route as that would certainly be the easiest. I saw the wires coming up that way in the engine compartment near the center line and hoped it would be easy to get to them at the stern. I guess it is impossible to design a boat with easy access to engine, electricals, plumbing etc. Thanks- Dave On Apr 17, 2014, at 5:51 PM, David Blair dblair...@gmail.com wrote: Without going down to look I’d think about going down to near the water heater then forward through the space below the fuel tank parallel to the exhaust hose and come out just forward and up to the batteries. Worth a look anyway I’d think. Did that with a line for my overboard zinc from the neutral bus to the stern and put a post near the shore power connector. Ciao From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2014 2:29 PM To: CnC CnC discussion list Subject: Stus-List wiring solar panel to battery I am trying to wire a new solar panel to the batteries. I have a plug installed at the engine control panel going through to the starboard lazarette. I have a charge controller mounted in the lazarette. Now I need to get the wire to the batteries. I thought that was going to be the easy part, but I am having a hard time finding a path to get the wire from one to the other. There is wire running forward from various devices in the lazarette including the AC converter, which has to get to the same place, but I don’t know if anyone has a guess as to the easiest way to run the wire through inaccessible paths on a 34+. Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT image001.png ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com David Knecht, Ph.D. Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility Department of Molecular and Cell Biology U-3125 91 N. Eagleville Rd. University of Connecticut Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 860-486-4331 (fax) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com David Knecht, Ph.D. Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility Department of Molecular and Cell Biology U-3125 91 N. Eagleville Rd. University of Connecticut Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 860-486-4331 (fax) David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 35 MKIII Reefer Madness
Erik, Is it possible that a previous owner installed a hidden shut-off valve somewhere? Barring that, you could try using a compressor and an air-gun to blow air into the hose end that drains into the bilge. If there is anything solid blocking the drain line it probably came in from the icebox end, this might pop it back out. Good Luck Rick Taillieu Nemesis '75 CC 25 #371 Shearwater Yacht Club Halifax, NS. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik Hillenmeyer Sent: April-20-14 01:52 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC 35 MKIII Reefer Madness I have a problem driving me nuts. The reefer drain on our boat is completely clogged; it makes a horrible mess when a few bags of ice melt in it and we need to bail the thing out, meanwhile food sits in standing water and labels soak off all the beers. I've tried 3 different snakes and even liquid plumber. Nothing works. Problem is, I've found this to be the only inaccessible part of the boat. The plumbing for the drain is all contained totally enclosed. the plumbing exits through a very small hole in the bulkhead under the sink where it drains into the bilge. Anyway I can get to this without cutting a hole the bulkhead? Does the drain screw into the bottom of the reefer, anyway I can get it out that way? Anyone else ever removed or replaced this plumbing? My last resort is considering routing a hole in the counter beneath the reefer, next to the stove and putting in a large inspection port after fixing it, but it's not a very aesthetically pleasing option to me. After trying snakes and chemical options I've pretty much given up on clearing the clog without taking it apart. It's never drained since I bought the boat, so for all I know someone poured epoxy down it, it certainly isn't your normal clog. Erik CC 35-3 _ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2014.0.4355 / Virus Database: 3882/7369 - Release Date: 04/20/14 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 35 MKIII Reefer Madness
Sorry Erik no advice on how to resolve the blockage, but once you do... I have a small pump under the sink that takes the drain up and into the sink drain just under the sink, so the bilge stays dry and you can choose whether to drain that nice cold water out or not. I used to have this plumbed to one of the foot pumps under the sink that we seldom use. I would have no access to that area either... Just hope the hose stays on the barb (or whatever it is)! Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Sun, Apr 20, 2014 at 10:21 AM, Rick Taillieu rtaill...@eastlink.cawrote: Erik, Is it possible that a previous owner installed a hidden shut-off valve somewhere? Barring that, you could try using a compressor and an air-gun to blow air into the hose end that drains into the bilge. If there is anything solid blocking the drain line it probably came in from the icebox end, this might pop it back out. Good Luck Rick Taillieu Nemesis '75 CC 25 #371 Shearwater Yacht Club Halifax, NS. *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Erik Hillenmeyer *Sent:* April-20-14 01:52 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Stus-List CC 35 MKIII Reefer Madness I have a problem driving me nuts. The reefer drain on our boat is completely clogged; it makes a horrible mess when a few bags of ice melt in it and we need to bail the thing out, meanwhile food sits in standing water and labels soak off all the beers. I've tried 3 different snakes and even liquid plumber. Nothing works. Problem is, I've found this to be the only inaccessible part of the boat. The plumbing for the drain is all contained totally enclosed. the plumbing exits through a very small hole in the bulkhead under the sink where it drains into the bilge. Anyway I can get to this without cutting a hole the bulkhead? Does the drain screw into the bottom of the reefer, anyway I can get it out that way? Anyone else ever removed or replaced this plumbing? My last resort is considering routing a hole in the counter beneath the reefer, next to the stove and putting in a large inspection port after fixing it, but it's not a very aesthetically pleasing option to me. After trying snakes and chemical options I've pretty much given up on clearing the clog without taking it apart. It's never drained since I bought the boat, so for all I know someone poured epoxy down it, it certainly isn't your normal clog. Erik CC 35-3 -- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2014.0.4355 / Virus Database: 3882/7369 - Release Date: 04/20/14 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Packing size 1 1/8 shaft
Ed, This won't be much help to you but here is my experience.I replaced the packing in the stuffing box.prop shaft is 1.I can't tell you the size of the packing until I go to the boat to confirm but I think it was 3/16. I got three (3) new strands of the new packing in the stuffing box.I put two (2) strands in first and then tightened/compressed them before I put the third one in. If I didn't do it this way, I would not have been able to close the stuffing box with the three (3) new strands. So maybe you could try tightening/compressing the first strand before installing the second one. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/04/20 12:31 AM, primeinterest wrote: While the PO had left some 1/4 flax packing I'm having trouble repacking the stuffing box with new flax of that size. While I seem to have the first ring deep enough I can't seem to get the second ring installed, 3 ring were removed but now I'wondering if the packing might be 3/16. Any thoughts on what the typical packing size is for a 1 1/8 shaft? Thanks Ed Prime Interest 1982 Landfall 38 Toronto, Ontario ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F low compression
Happy Easter to All, Bill is correctFinesse does smoke more that it should upon all starts...but happy to report that after 5 minutes or so of running the smoke is hardly noticable. Not sure what the PO did, but a local diesel shop suggested a fuel additive which I always useso maybe that helps as well. Lloyd Lippe Finesse - LF39 Rockport, Texas - Original Message - From: Bill Coleman To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, April 11, 2014 9:47 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F low compression This is very interesting. The Landfall 39 here in Erie that Lloyd Lippe in TX bought smoked a lot. The Previous owner was a CC dealer in the day, and had a yard. I talked to the manager once, he said they did everything to this engine to figure out the smoking problem and could never solve it. I'll bet you are right on about the stuck rings. I am not sure if it ever cleared up for Lloyd. Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bria...@aol.com Sent: Friday, April 11, 2014 8:10 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F low compression A thought on Josh's 3HM35F engine issues My new to me boat had been on the hard for years (4+, at least), and required a emptying and cleaning of the fuel tank, new filters, and a rebuild of the injection pump just to get my YANMAR 4JH-TE started. It seemed to run fine, and we ran it for many hours at various speeds dockside, then changed the oil and filter again. Still more smoke than I would like in the exhaust. In any case, pressed for time, I set out for return to Virginia from Gulf Coast, Florida. In the first 8 hours of running time, used more than 1/2 quart of oil, then something changed. Less smoke in the exhaust, much more power, smoother idle. From that point on used no more oil on the whole trip up to Virginia. At least 65 more hours of running time. I suspect my engine had stuck rings, and that the combination of running it and fresh oil unstuck them. Perhaps this applies to Josh's engine, as well, although I'm not sure how he can run it if it won't start. According to my diesel mechanic, the engine should start and run with the compression he has, just won't produce much power, and may smoke. I'm thinking his starting problem is elsewhere and would suspect the injection pump. Bill MYSTY Landfall 39 Virginia In a message dated 4/11/2014 5:19:11 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, muckl...@gmail.com writes: Hey folks, It appears that I have low compression (130psi and 160psi) on 2 cylinders. During the first start of the season the engine started rough and powered the boat just long enough to get to the travel lift and then stalled when I throttled down. I did not attempt to restart because I was in the lift well. Upon relaunch, 5 days later, the engine just won't catch. It kinda acts like it wants to, which I assume is the single cylinder that has enough compression to fire. An additional symptom was unusually high crankcase pressure as indicated by the dipstick that ejected from the engine. A zip-tie was enough to secure it for the trip to haul-out. I have ensured fuel and spray pattern. Changed and cleaned injectors. Tried starting fluid. Attempted to use hot air at the air intake. Cleaned/removed air cleaner. Checked valve lash/operation. Checked exhause elbow. Checked compression. Stuck rings seem to be the most common diagnosis. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. I think the bigger decision for me and the question for y'all is, what should I do from here. Rebuild? Replace? If I replace should I modernize or stick with a remanufactured 3HM35? If I modernize, should I stick with 30hp or go for something bigger. I fear that anything other than a 3HM35F will cause delays due to configuration and fit. Is it worth it or is that fear unfounded? If I rebuild should I do it myself? I fear a long turnaround and more delays. As you can probably tell I am leaning towards replacing with a remanufactured 3HM35F but I also don't want to miss other opportunities. Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Yanmar 3HM35F Solomons, MD ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 35 MKIII Reefer Madness
Mine also has a hose that comes out under the sink, it goes to a small pump and when I need to drain the cooler I put the end of the hose from the pump into the sink, and pump it out. Anyway, presumably you have found the second end of the hose, is it under the sink? One thing you could try is one second plumber to blast out the clog. I have a funny story though. Our first boat, the cooler didn't drain. I assumed it just drained to the bilge, and was clogged. Put a can of one second plumber to the drain and gave it a blast, the little whale flipper pump at the galley sink that didn't do anything exploded... Oops! That was what that was for! Graham Collins Secret Plans CC 35-III #11 On 2014-04-20 12:03 PM, Tim Goodyear wrote: Sorry Erik no advice on how to resolve the blockage, but once you do... I have a small pump under the sink that takes the drain up and into the sink drain just under the sink, so the bilge stays dry and you can choose whether to drain that nice cold water out or not. I used to have this plumbed to one of the foot pumps under the sink that we seldom use. I would have no access to that area either... Just hope the hose stays on the barb (or whatever it is)! Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Sun, Apr 20, 2014 at 10:21 AM, Rick Taillieu rtaill...@eastlink.ca mailto:rtaill...@eastlink.ca wrote: Erik, Is it possible that a previous owner installed a hidden shut-off valve somewhere? Barring that, you could try using a compressor and an air-gun to blow air into the hose end that drains into the bilge. If there is anything solid blocking the drain line it probably came in from the icebox end, this might pop it back out. Good Luck Rick Taillieu Nemesis '75 CC 25 #371 Shearwater Yacht Club Halifax, NS. *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Erik Hillenmeyer *Sent:* April-20-14 01:52 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Stus-List CC 35 MKIII Reefer Madness I have a problem driving me nuts. The reefer drain on our boat is completely clogged; it makes a horrible mess when a few bags of ice melt in it and we need to bail the thing out, meanwhile food sits in standing water and labels soak off all the beers. I've tried 3 different snakes and even liquid plumber. Nothing works. Problem is, I've found this to be the only inaccessible part of the boat. The plumbing for the drain is all contained totally enclosed. the plumbing exits through a very small hole in the bulkhead under the sink where it drains into the bilge. Anyway I can get to this without cutting a hole the bulkhead? Does the drain screw into the bottom of the reefer, anyway I can get it out that way? Anyone else ever removed or replaced this plumbing? My last resort is considering routing a hole in the counter beneath the reefer, next to the stove and putting in a large inspection port after fixing it, but it's not a very aesthetically pleasing option to me. After trying snakes and chemical options I've pretty much given up on clearing the clog without taking it apart. It's never drained since I bought the boat, so for all I know someone poured epoxy down it, it certainly isn't your normal clog. Erik CC 35-3 No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com http://www.avg.com Version: 2014.0.4355 / Virus Database: 3882/7369 - Release Date: 04/20/14 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 35 MKIII Reefer Madness
Erik, I have a 6 inspection port installed in the bulkhead under the stove. I have easy access to the drain fitting and hose. It came with the boat. My drain used to go to a small pump under the sink, but I opted for letting it drain into the bilge via gravity. Since installing refrigeration, I doubt the drain serves a useful purpose. The inspection port is barely visible from the cabin. You may want to consider installing on, if other methods don't clear your drain. Jake Jake Brodersen Midnight Mistress CC 35 Mk-III Hampton Va cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik Hillenmeyer Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2014 12:52 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC 35 MKIII Reefer Madness I have a problem driving me nuts. The reefer drain on our boat is completely clogged; it makes a horrible mess when a few bags of ice melt in it and we need to bail the thing out, meanwhile food sits in standing water and labels soak off all the beers. I've tried 3 different snakes and even liquid plumber. Nothing works. Problem is, I've found this to be the only inaccessible part of the boat. The plumbing for the drain is all contained totally enclosed. the plumbing exits through a very small hole in the bulkhead under the sink where it drains into the bilge. Anyway I can get to this without cutting a hole the bulkhead? Does the drain screw into the bottom of the reefer, anyway I can get it out that way? Anyone else ever removed or replaced this plumbing? My last resort is considering routing a hole in the counter beneath the reefer, next to the stove and putting in a large inspection port after fixing it, but it's not a very aesthetically pleasing option to me. After trying snakes and chemical options I've pretty much given up on clearing the clog without taking it apart. It's never drained since I bought the boat, so for all I know someone poured epoxy down it, it certainly isn't your normal clog. Erik CC 35-3 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 35 MKIII Reefer Madness
I plugged my drain hole on purpose, I don't want all that good cold water to go away. Also, the under sink mounted pump looked dubious and I think the hose even separated from the drain hole at the bottom of the cooler. Put your ice bags into containers. No more water at the bottom of the cooler. IIRC we used the upper plastic bin that's part of the cooler. When the ice melts we just take the bin out and pour the water down the drain (when we get new ice, of course). Bottom of the cooler is nice and dry (and cold). That drain hose is hidden on my 32 as well. I considered putting an inspection port inside the cabinet under the sink (where the drain hose goes) but thought that plan A above was the better move. I used an oil drain bolt from a honda outboard, it fit perfectly (I had it laying around). I'm sure any number of things would work to plug the hole. It's an easy way out. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Sun, Apr 20, 2014 at 11:31 AM, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.netwrote: Erik, I have a 6” inspection port installed in the bulkhead under the stove. I have easy access to the drain fitting and hose. It came with the boat. My drain used to go to a small pump under the sink, but I opted for letting it drain into the bilge via gravity. Since installing refrigeration, I doubt the drain serves a useful purpose. The inspection port is barely visible from the cabin. You may want to consider installing on, if other methods don’t clear your drain. Jake *Jake Brodersen* *“Midnight Mistress”* *CC 35 Mk-III* *Hampton Va* [image: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F] *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Erik Hillenmeyer *Sent:* Sunday, April 20, 2014 12:52 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Stus-List CC 35 MKIII Reefer Madness I have a problem driving me nuts. The reefer drain on our boat is completely clogged; it makes a horrible mess when a few bags of ice melt in it and we need to bail the thing out, meanwhile food sits in standing water and labels soak off all the beers. I've tried 3 different snakes and even liquid plumber. Nothing works. Problem is, I've found this to be the only inaccessible part of the boat. The plumbing for the drain is all contained totally enclosed. the plumbing exits through a very small hole in the bulkhead under the sink where it drains into the bilge. Anyway I can get to this without cutting a hole the bulkhead? Does the drain screw into the bottom of the reefer, anyway I can get it out that way? Anyone else ever removed or replaced this plumbing? My last resort is considering routing a hole in the counter beneath the reefer, next to the stove and putting in a large inspection port after fixing it, but it's not a very aesthetically pleasing option to me. After trying snakes and chemical options I've pretty much given up on clearing the clog without taking it apart. It's never drained since I bought the boat, so for all I know someone poured epoxy down it, it certainly isn't your normal clog. Erik CC 35-3 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 35 MKIII Reefer Madness
Our 29-2 came with the plastic pump under the sink, same as the 35. On both boats I replaced the pump with the small bronze PAR Little Pal pump, much more reliable. I kept the installation as built because I don't want anything from the icebox in the bilge. On BOTH boats we had a freezer pak leak in the box, it was good to be able to pump that out into the garbage. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 20 April 2014 08:52, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: I plugged my drain hole on purpose, I don't want all that good cold water to go away. Also, the under sink mounted pump looked dubious and I think the hose even separated from the drain hole at the bottom of the cooler. Put your ice bags into containers. No more water at the bottom of the cooler. IIRC we used the upper plastic bin that's part of the cooler. When the ice melts we just take the bin out and pour the water down the drain (when we get new ice, of course). Bottom of the cooler is nice and dry (and cold). That drain hose is hidden on my 32 as well. I considered putting an inspection port inside the cabinet under the sink (where the drain hose goes) but thought that plan A above was the better move. I used an oil drain bolt from a honda outboard, it fit perfectly (I had it laying around). I'm sure any number of things would work to plug the hole. It's an easy way out. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Sun, Apr 20, 2014 at 11:31 AM, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.netwrote: Erik, I have a 6” inspection port installed in the bulkhead under the stove. I have easy access to the drain fitting and hose. It came with the boat. My drain used to go to a small pump under the sink, but I opted for letting it drain into the bilge via gravity. Since installing refrigeration, I doubt the drain serves a useful purpose. The inspection port is barely visible from the cabin. You may want to consider installing on, if other methods don’t clear your drain. Jake *Jake Brodersen* *“Midnight Mistress”* *CC 35 Mk-III* *Hampton Va* [image: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F] *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Erik Hillenmeyer *Sent:* Sunday, April 20, 2014 12:52 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Stus-List CC 35 MKIII Reefer Madness I have a problem driving me nuts. The reefer drain on our boat is completely clogged; it makes a horrible mess when a few bags of ice melt in it and we need to bail the thing out, meanwhile food sits in standing water and labels soak off all the beers. I've tried 3 different snakes and even liquid plumber. Nothing works. Problem is, I've found this to be the only inaccessible part of the boat. The plumbing for the drain is all contained totally enclosed. the plumbing exits through a very small hole in the bulkhead under the sink where it drains into the bilge. Anyway I can get to this without cutting a hole the bulkhead? Does the drain screw into the bottom of the reefer, anyway I can get it out that way? Anyone else ever removed or replaced this plumbing? My last resort is considering routing a hole in the counter beneath the reefer, next to the stove and putting in a large inspection port after fixing it, but it's not a very aesthetically pleasing option to me. After trying snakes and chemical options I've pretty much given up on clearing the clog without taking it apart. It's never drained since I bought the boat, so for all I know someone poured epoxy down it, it certainly isn't your normal clog. Erik CC 35-3 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 35-2 questions
If the boat has the Atomic 4 engine with raw water cooling, I would not bother with a water heater. We had one and threw it out ages ago. A raw water cooled engine will not run hot enough to get decent hot water and if you get a hotter thermostat salt and minerals precipitate out and clog the cooling passages. Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com mailto:j...@dellabarba.com Coquina CC 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2014 9:50 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 35-2 questions I would agree with Dwight. 1. The resale value usually does not include any extra equipment. You can add instruments, A/C, special comfort features and the selling price would not change. You may find a buyer sooner, but it won't make the price higher. Marek (in Ottawa). From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2014 3:46 PM To: 'andrew rothweiler'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 35-2 questions 1. about $1000 depending on the hot water heater you choose.5-6 gallons is enough imo and the pressure pump.get ITT PAR diaphragm pump maybe $200 both hot and cold pressure. Resale value is mostly about age of boat and engine.a good diesel is worth more imo.inventory counts for some buyers, the extra things you do with your boat are for you, others might not want to pay extra for them on resale. 2. No, but inboard tracks are not that hard to install and with roller cars they are worth it. The interior bolts won't be visible unless you lay on your back and look up.the tracks need only be about 4-5 feet long.I have them installed on my 35 MKII but I need to measure for exact. 3. The 35 MKII is a beautiful boat, stand back and look at her lines and fall in love and she is very seaworthy with a higher than expected motion comfort factor for a 35 footer.she is fast and fastest off the wind, she points well but not as well as more modern racier designs.I love mine and hope to keep her in the family for decades to come.we see what she can do every time another mast is in sight and we enjoy the ride All 35 MKII's are old: get a good survey.if that checks out and the price is what you are willing to pay, go for it.I have never regretted buying Alianna Dwight Veinot 1974 CC 35 MKII, Alianna St. Margaret's Bay, NS _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of andrew rothweiler Sent: April 19, 2014 3:59 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC 35-2 questions Hello all, need some advice please. There's a 35-2 for sale that I'll be looking at this week. The boat seems to be a base model without many options; no teak holly sole, no hot pressure water (does have cold water system), no genoa tracks. So my questions are: 1) Can anyone give a ballpark idea of how much it would cost to have hot pressure water added (by a yard shop, since I don't have the knowledge/tools etc to tackle such a job)? Is resale value of this boat diminished much by not having hot pressure water/shower? Is the resale value and desirability of this model increased very much by adding the hot pressure water/shower feature? 2) Is there any indication on the deck or inside the liner of the proper factory mounting location for genoa tracks, which I would add? I've seen a boat of a different brand that doesn't have the tracks, but you can see the pre-molded location in the deck, and there are access panels in the cabin to reach the mounting bolts from underneath without having to cut holes in the liner. Does the CC 35-2 have any similar indicators of the genoa track location? A week or so ago some folks were commenting on the value of this forum and the contributions of the members, especially as it relates to the enhanced value and desirability of CCs. As a prospective CC owner, I can affirm that sentiment wholeheartedly. I've been on the hunt for my first full sized sailboat for a couple of years, and subscribing to this forum has greatly contributed to my sailboat education, and to the process of figuring out what would be the right boat for me. Of the makes of boats that I've considered, imo the CC forum is by far the most active and educational source to help a prospective owner navigate the variables of sailboat buying. This forum offers great reassurance to a newcomer like myself that there is knowledgeable advice available when issues inevitably come up related to ownership and maintenance. Thanks again to everyone for their advice and assistance. Andy R ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Trilux 33 Areosol
I had picked up a can of the Trilux 33 aerosol to give some protection to my prop and sail drive this season. Both have been lightly sanded, washed and then primed with a couple of coats of Primocon (also aerosol). Now I’m having second thoughts. Interlux markets the product as the safest for aluminum but nowhere do they put the magic words “copper/tin free”. My other choice is to brush on Pettit’s Hydrocoat eco which is what I used for the bottom. They are very clear in their brochures that the paint is metal free. I like the idea of the aerosol for the prop but to own a sail drive is to know fear of corrosion. Any thoughts? John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List C 35 MKIII Reefer Madness
Erik FWIW on my 35-3 there is a standard round white inspection plate located on the side of the reefer which would allow access- It is between stove and reefer. When stove is there you can't even see it but gimbal the stove out of the way and voila. Probably not factory but installing one would give you access and with the stove normally there it poses no 'aesthetic' issues. Never have had it off so who knows what lurks behind ;-) I have the little brass pump up under the sink that sucks the reefer drain and spits it into the sink. Kim Brown TrustMe!!! 35-3 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik Hillenmeyer Sent: April-20-14 01:52 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC 35 MKIII Reefer Madness I have a problem driving me nuts. The reefer drain on our boat is completely clogged; it makes a horrible mess when a few bags of ice melt in it and we need to bail the thing out, meanwhile food sits in standing water and labels soak off all the beers. I've tried 3 different snakes and even liquid plumber. Nothing works. Problem is, I've found this to be the only inaccessible part of the boat. The plumbing for the drain is all contained totally enclosed. the plumbing exits through a very small hole in the bulkhead under the sink where it drains into the bilge. Anyway I can get to this without cutting a hole the bulkhead? Does the drain screw into the bottom of the reefer, anyway I can get it out that way? Anyone else ever removed or replaced this plumbing? My last resort is considering routing a hole in the counter beneath the reefer, next to the stove and putting in a large inspection port after fixing it, but it's not a very aesthetically pleasing option to me. After trying snakes and chemical options I've pretty much given up on clearing the clog without taking it apart. It's never drained since I bought the boat, so for all I know someone poured epoxy down it, it certainly isn't your normal clog. Erik CC 35-3 _ ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Trilux 33 Areosol saildrive
FWIW, I did a quick search and found an email from Joe from Interux recommend to another saildrive owner, to use Pacifica Plus, a copper free bottom paint, . . . that has been out performing most copper based antifouling paints using a biocide called Econea. Don't think I'd mix Pettit bottom paint w Interlux Primocon on anything. I recommend you contact Interlux or google, bottom painting saildrive for other manufacturer's recommendations. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ - Original Message - From: John Pennie j...@svpaws.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2014 2:31:51 PM Subject: Stus-List Trilux 33 Areosol I had picked up a can of the Trilux 33 aerosol to give some protection to my prop and sail drive this season. Both have been lightly sanded, washed and then primed with a couple of coats of Primocon (also aerosol). Now I’m having second thoughts. Interlux markets the product as the safest for aluminum but nowhere do they put the magic words “copper/tin free”. My other choice is to brush on Pettit’s Hydrocoat eco which is what I used for the bottom. They are very clear in their brochures that the paint is metal free. I like the idea of the aerosol for the prop but to own a sail drive is to know fear of corrosion. Any thoughts? John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Trilux 33 Areosol
I've been using trilux with the primer on my max prop and shaft for about 10 years now. There doesn't seem to be a problem with corrosion that I can see. The problem I have with this product is that around the middle of August it starts to fall off and I have to dive more frequently to keep the assembly clean. I've tried everything . same result. The upside is that by the end of the year it is all gone and it makes sanding and prep work for the next year easy. Gary Kolc Liberty 38' MK I Narragansett Bay RI John Pennie j...@svpaws.net wrote: I had picked up a can of the Trilux 33 aerosol to give some protection to my prop and sail drive this season. Both have been lightly sanded, washed and then primed with a couple of coats of Primocon (also aerosol). Now I’m having second thoughts. Interlux markets the product as the safest for aluminum but nowhere do they put the magic words “copper/tin free”. My other choice is to brush on Pettit’s Hydrocoat eco which is what I used for the bottom. They are very clear in their brochures that the paint is metal free. I like the idea of the aerosol for the prop but to own a sail drive is to know fear of corrosion. Any thoughts? John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Trilux 33 Areosol saildrive
Thanks Chuck. Did a quick search and found the following in their literature. They were the wordsI was looking for. While Pacifica Plus can be applied directly to aluminum best results are achieved by priming with InterProtect® 2000E or Primocon I suspect echo is just Pettit’s version of Pacifica as they list the same active ingredients. As Interlux is nice enough to sell this in pints I think I’ll just go that route and not loose any sleep. Thanks again John On Apr 20, 2014, at 6:12 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: FWIW, I did a quick search and found an email from Joe from Interux recommend to another saildrive owner, to use Pacifica Plus, a copper free bottom paint, . . . that has been out performing most copper based antifouling paints using a biocide called Econea. Don't think I'd mix Pettit bottom paint w Interlux Primocon on anything. I recommend you contact Interlux or google, bottom painting saildrive for other manufacturer's recommendations. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ From: John Pennie j...@svpaws.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2014 2:31:51 PM Subject: Stus-List Trilux 33 Areosol I had picked up a can of the Trilux 33 aerosol to give some protection to my prop and sail drive this season. Both have been lightly sanded, washed and then primed with a couple of coats of Primocon (also aerosol). Now I’m having second thoughts. Interlux markets the product as the safest for aluminum but nowhere do they put the magic words “copper/tin free”. My other choice is to brush on Pettit’s Hydrocoat eco which is what I used for the bottom. They are very clear in their brochures that the paint is metal free. I like the idea of the aerosol for the prop but to own a sail drive is to know fear of corrosion. Any thoughts? John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Trilux 33 Areosol saildrive
John, That sounds safe. I checked the Interlux Paint Guide and you are on track. Outdrives are aluminum, and my boatyard is 80% powerboats, so I'll ask one of the more knowledgeble skippers what they use on their outdrives. I know a few who really take good care of their boats. Chuck - Original Message - From: John Pennie j...@svpaws.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2014 6:41:14 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Trilux 33 Areosol saildrive Thanks Chuck. Did a quick search and found the following in their literature. They were the wordsI was looking for. While Pacifica Plus can be applied directly to aluminum best results are achieved by priming with InterProtect ® 2000E or Primocon I suspect echo is just Pettit’s version of Pacifica as they list the same active ingredients. As Interlux is nice enough to sell this in pints I think I’ll just go that route and not loose any sleep. Thanks again John On Apr 20, 2014, at 6:12 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: FWIW, I did a quick search and found an email from Joe from Interux recommend to another saildrive owner, to use Pacifica Plus, a copper free bottom paint, . . . that has been out performing most copper based antifouling paints using a biocide called Econea. Don't think I'd mix Pettit bottom paint w Interlux Primocon on anything. I recommend you contact Interlux or google, bottom painting saildrive for other manufacturer's recommendations. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ - Original Message - From: John Pennie j...@svpaws.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2014 2:31:51 PM Subject: Stus-List Trilux 33 Areosol I had picked up a can of the Trilux 33 aerosol to give some protection to my prop and sail drive this season. Both have been lightly sanded, washed and then primed with a couple of coats of Primocon (also aerosol). Now I’m having second thoughts. Interlux markets the product as the safest for aluminum but nowhere do they put the magic words “copper/tin free”. My other choice is to brush on Pettit’s Hydrocoat eco which is what I used for the bottom. They are very clear in their brochures that the paint is metal free. I like the idea of the aerosol for the prop but to own a sail drive is to know fear of corrosion. Any thoughts? John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Trilux 33 Areosol
John, I would pose your question directly to the vendor. If Interlux replies ambiguously, post its reply for further analysis. Bob M Ox 33-1 Jax, FL On Sun, Apr 20, 2014 at 2:31 PM, John Pennie j...@svpaws.net wrote: Interlux markets the product as the safest for aluminum but nowhere do they put the magic words “copper/tin free”. Any thoughts? John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Packing size 1 1/8 shaft
I used 3/16 on my 1-1/8 shaft. Buck Algonquin stuffing box. Wal primeinterest wrote: Any thoughts on what the typical packing size is for a 1 1/8 shaft? ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
