Stus-List Chester Race Week

[dwight via CnC-List]

Dear lsiters

 

I thought some of you may be interested in this nice article from the
Halifax Herald on Chester Race Week which is now on in Mahone Bay, NS.

 

http://thechronicleherald.ca/novascotia/1229013-sailboats-pour-in-from-aroun
d-globe-for-chester-race-week

 

And here is a link to Chester Yacht Club for those who want to learn more
about the event:

 

http://chesteryachtclub.ca/

 

 

I am not participating this year but have done in years gone by and enjoyed
myself to the fullest. However,  I hope to get down to Mahone Bay later this
week as a crusier; a 4-6 hour sail on Alianna from here, to take in some of
the on-water activity.lots of excellent sailors racing hard mainly for
braggin rights and lots of beautiful sailboats, old and new,  small and
large, and same for the sailors, older and not so old and small and not so
small..it's a wonderful event and the weather for the race days ahead looks
pretty decent this year

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

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Re: Stus-List Shannon 38

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Shannon is no C&C, it’s the Bentley of cursing yachts.   A good friend worked 
for Shannon building the interiors for 20 years.  Price would be great if it 
were not for the accident.  How do you get de-masted and no damage the rest of 
the boat?  Insurance usually skimps out on repair so if I were to look at it, I 
would inspect the chainplates, turnbuckles and made sure all of the standing 
rigging and associated fittings are brand new.  And that attachments to the 
superstructure show no signs of stress, elongation etc.It might be hard 
getting to them with all the beautiful woodwork inside.

Still I could not see myself spending that much in the 70s interior design.   

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bobmor99 . 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 8:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Shannon 38

 

I've been an 8-9 year consumer of Stu's List wisdom - mostly contributing 
questions and an occasional opinion. I'm curious what people think of the 
Shannon 38, referenced below, as a retirement boat for bumping up and down the 
US East Coast. I realize it's not a C&C but the opinions of many on the list 
are held in high regard. The dismasting and repair are of special interest.

 

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1978/Shannon-staysail-Cutter-2644578/Shelter-Island/NY/United-States#.U-qVSONdWSo

 

Cheers,

 

Bob M

Ox 33-1

Jax, FL

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Re: Stus-List Shannon 38

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I probably shouldn't say this, but I have some miles delivering Shannons
and my brother was captain on a Shannon 50 for a couple of years. His quote
pretty much much sums up the boat for me. He said "It's just like a
Hinckley; all the screw heads line up. Unfortunately, none of them are
tight."

Coming from an elegant, sweet sailing boat like a C&C, I suspect you may be
disappointed in the way the Shannon sails. It's kind of like going from a
sports car to a pickup truck. And you know how once you get her moving,
your C&C backs up almost as well as she goes in forward? Forget that on the
Shannon. She will back into a slip using the prop walk, but you can't drive
her around in reverse.

The bottom line is that the Shannon is a salty-looking little cruising boat
that looks ready to cross an ocean, and it certainly will get you where
you're going. But there are much better choices out there for the money,
including C&C's.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine


On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 9:46 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Shannon is no C&C, it’s the Bentley of cursing yachts.   A good friend
> worked for Shannon building the interiors for 20 years.  Price would be
> great if it were not for the accident.  How do you get de-masted and no
> damage the rest of the boat?  Insurance usually skimps out on repair so if
> I were to look at it, I would inspect the chainplates, turnbuckles and made
> sure all of the standing rigging and associated fittings are brand new.
> And that attachments to the superstructure show no signs of stress,
> elongation etc.It might be hard getting to them with all the beautiful
> woodwork inside.
>
> Still I could not see myself spending that much in the 70s interior
> design.
>
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C&C 38MkII
>
> Newport, RI
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *bobmor99
> . via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 12, 2014 8:23 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Shannon 38
>
>
>
> I've been an 8-9 year consumer of Stu's List wisdom - mostly contributing
> questions and an occasional opinion. I'm curious what people think of the
> Shannon 38, referenced below, as a retirement boat for bumping up and down
> the US East Coast. I realize it's not a C&C but the opinions of many on the
> list are held in high regard. The dismasting and repair are of special
> interest.
>
>
>
>
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1978/Shannon-staysail-Cutter-2644578/Shelter-Island/NY/United-States#.U-qVSONdWSo
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Bob M
>
> Ox 33-1
>
> Jax, FL
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Stus-List 35 Mk 2 still winning

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

http://www.na.northsails.com/tabid/1945/default.aspx?news_id=5546


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly
35 Mk 1
Glen Cove, NY



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Re: Stus-List Shannon 38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, Bob — the Shannons are pretty boats, for the most part well-built.  From 
the photos, this one looks like there’s been some water damage to interior 
woodwork; and the electrical system and much of the electronics are very dated. 
 And they’re not going to sail anything like a C&C.

Pretty high price for a 70’s boat.  I imagine it’ll sell for less...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Aug 12, 2014, at 7:23 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I've been an 8-9 year consumer of Stu's List wisdom - mostly contributing 
> questions and an occasional opinion. I'm curious what people think of the 
> Shannon 38, referenced below, as a retirement boat for bumping up and down 
> the US East Coast. I realize it's not a C&C but the opinions of many on the 
> list are held in high regard. The dismasting and repair are of special 
> interest.
> 
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1978/Shannon-staysail-Cutter-2644578/Shelter-Island/NY/United-States#.U-qVSONdWSo
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Alright, the saga continues.

We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, 
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to 
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a 
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for having 
black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.

On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that, 
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine some 
more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower. the 
whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, then run 
normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.

We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit of 
the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the mouth 
of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by shoals and 
some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice 
over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts 
through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that current. 
On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other shoal. it was a 
little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our mooring was dead, head to 
wind, along with the current in the same direction, I lost forward motion under 
sail and started the engine. She started right up and we motored onto the 
mooring without incident.

So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below and 
pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4 hours 
running time.

I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure 
but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that time. I 
think it came with the rebuild kit.

My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb 
that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original 
engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to do 
now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap them 
back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you guys 
think I should maybe try another path forward.

Danny


 P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!


--- Begin Message ---
Could be the carburetor. I've had this issue too many times. I chose to take 
off the carb, break it down completely and clean it out. Moyer Marine's A4 
guide is very useful. 

Brian
s/v Rekofa The Blue Whale
1979 C&C 34
Baltimore, MD

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

> On Aug 10, 2014, at 9:48 AM, "Burt Stratton via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Good question. I suppose it is possible but seems unlikely. The fuel pump 
> ought to be able to overcome that. Can you drain the trap? I would drain or 
> remove the trap and try it.  Try a new P-trap designed for the purpose. Might 
> want to check the operation of your fuel pump.
>  
> I just put my boat in the water for the first time and had a similar issue. 5 
> minutes and then stall. Starts back up after a short wait but won’t run for 
> longer than about five minutes. Sort of ran if fully choked. Turned out to be 
> a broken electrical feed to my electric fuel pump. Hard to believe how long 
> it ran without a fuel pump! I guess gravity and vacuum will do part of the 
> job, even through two filters.
>  
> Skip
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
> Haughey via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2014 5:38 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
>  
> 
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Danny Haughey  
> Date: 08/09/2014 5:32 PM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: derlic...@gmail.com,mda...@darkstar.ca 
> Subject: Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 
> 
> 
> Okay so no wind today...
>  
> I pulled up to the gas dock, topped off water and fuel, loaded up and away we 
> went.  Motor was running great!  Fired up left dock, motored away.  After 
> about an hour she seemed to be running out of gas.  Stutter ed and stalled.  
> Five minutes later, after seeing sail, she started right back up.  We sail 
> back to our home mooring.  I pull the filter on the sepertator, looked clean 
> as the day I put it in.  Then I thought, maybe the vent is plugged...  well, 
> it wasn't plugged but it is routed with a trap and that trap was filled with 
> fuel.  Would this have been enough to starve the engine?
>  
> Danny
>  
>  
> From my Android phone
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> at:
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> 
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This List is 

Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[JOHN D IRVIN via CnC-List]

Are you using a hot enough plug and premium fuel?


On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 11:33:11 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 


- Forwarded Message -


Alright, the saga continues.

We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, 
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to 
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a 
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for having 
black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.

On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that, 
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine some 
more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower. the 
whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, then run 
normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.

We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit of 
the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the mouth 
of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by shoals and 
some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice 
over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts 
through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that current. 
On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other shoal. it was a 
little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our mooring was dead, head to 
wind, along with the current in the same direction, I lost forward motion under 
sail and started the engine. She started right up and we motored onto the 
mooring without incident.

So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below and 
pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4 hours 
running time.

I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure 
but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that time. I 
think it came with the rebuild kit.

My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb 
that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original 
engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to do 
now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap them 
back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you guys 
think I should maybe try another path forward.

Danny



 
P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!



Could be the carburetor. I've had this issue too many times. I chose to take 
off the carb, break it down completely and clean it out. Moyer Marine's A4 
guide is very useful. 

Brian
s/v Rekofa The Blue Whale
1979 C&C 34
Baltimore, MD

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

On Aug 10, 2014, at 9:48 AM, "Burt Stratton via CnC-List" 
 wrote:


Good question. I suppose it is possible but seems unlikely. The fuel pump ought 
to be able to overcome that. Can you drain the trap? I would drain or remove 
the trap and try it.  Try a new P-trap designed for the purpose. Might want to 
check the operation of your fuel pump.
> 
>I just put my boat in the water for the first time and had a similar issue. 5 
>minutes and then stall. Starts back up after a short wait but won’t run for 
>longer than about five minutes. Sort of ran if fully choked. Turned out to be 
>a broken electrical feed to my electric fuel pump. Hard to believe how long it 
>ran without a fuel pump! I guess gravity and vacuum will do part of the job, 
>even through two filters.
> 
>Skip
> 
>From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
>Haughey via CnC-List
>Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2014 5:38 PM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
> 
>
>
>
> Original message 
>From: Danny Haughey  
>Date: 08/09/2014 5:32 PM (GMT-05:00) 
>To: derlic...@gmail.com,mda...@darkstar.ca 
>Subject: Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 
>
>
>Okay so no wind today...
> 
>I pulled up to the gas dock, topped off water and fuel, loaded up and away we 
>went.  Motor was running great!  Fired up left dock, motored away.  After 
>about an hour she seemed to be running out of gas.  Stutter ed and stalled.  
>Five minutes later, after seeing sail, she started right back up.  We sail 
>back to our home mooring.  I pull the filter on the sepertator, looked clean 
>as the day I put it in.  Then I thought, maybe the vent is plugged...  well, 
>it wasn't plugged but it is routed with a trap and that trap was filled with 
>fuel.  Would this have been enough to starve the engine?
> 
>Danny
> 
> 
>From my Android phone 
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>
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>at:
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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I am using champion RC12YC and using regular unleaded gas. I guess if I'm to 
use premium, I'm going to need to lug it to the boat in 5 gallon jugs...

-- Original Message --
From: JOHN D IRVIN 
To: Danny Haughey ,  "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 08:38:52 -0700


Are you using a hot enough plug and premium fuel?

 On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 11:33:11 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

- Forwarded Message -

Alright, the saga continues.

We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, 
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to 
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a 
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for having 
black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.

On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that, 
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine some 
more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower. the 
whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, then run 
normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.

We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit of 
the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the mouth 
of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by shoals and 
some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice 
over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts 
through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that current. 
On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other shoal. it was a 
little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our mooring was dead, head to 
wind, along with the current in the same direction, I lost forward motion under 
sail and started the engine. She started right up and we motored onto the 
mooring without incident.

So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below and 
pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4 hours 
running time.

I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure 
but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that time. I 
think it came with the rebuild kit.

My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb 
that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original 
engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to do 
now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap them 
back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you guys 
think I should maybe try another path forward.

Danny


 P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!


Could be the carburetor. I've had this issue too many times. I chose to take 
off the carb, break it down completely and clean it out. Moyer Marine's A4 
guide is very useful.  Brians/v Rekofa The Blue Whale1979 C&C 34Baltimore, MD

Dr. Brian C. Morrison
On Aug 10, 2014, at 9:48 AM, "Burt Stratton via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

Good question. I suppose it is possible but seems unlikely. The fuel pump ought 
to be able to overcome that. Can you drain the trap? I would drain or remove 
the trap and try it.  Try a new P-trap designed for the purpose. Might want to 
check the operation of your fuel pump.  I just put my boat in the water for the 
first time and had a similar issue. 5 minutes and then stall. Starts back up 
after a short wait but won’t run for longer than about five minutes. Sort 
of ran if fully choked. Turned out to be a broken electrical feed to my 
electric fuel pump. Hard to believe how long it ran without a fuel pump! I 
guess gravity and vacuum will do part of the job, even through two filters.  
Skip  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2014 5:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 


 Original message 
From: Danny Haughey  
Date: 08/09/2014 5:32 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: derlic...@gmail.com,mda...@darkstar.ca 
Subject: Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 

Okay so no wind today... I pulled up to the gas dock, topped off water and 
fuel, loaded up and away we went.  Motor was running great!  Fired up left 
dock, motored away.  After about an hour she seemed to be running out of gas.  
Stutter ed and stalled.  Five minutes later, after seeing sail, she started 
right back up.  We sail back to our home mooring.  I pull the filter on the 
sepertator, looked clean as the day I put it in.  Then I thought, maybe the 
vent is plugged...  well, it wasn't plugged but it is routed with a trap and 
that trap was filled with fuel.  Would this have been enough to starve the 
engi

Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I spent a weekend at Cutty two weekends ago.  It was blowing hard enough out
of east to make outside moorings/anchorage uncomfortable for all by large
cruising yachts.  In a frontal passage conditions, winds blow E and NE and
Cuttyhunk is fully exposed and miserable.  

There is a sandbar however to the NE with a small colony of seals on it.
Nobody goes as the bottom is kelp and thought to not hold well.  Very nice
and Calm in those conditions  I have done it on 3 occasions over the last 2
years and got a good night sleep watching other anchored boats rock and roll
across the harbor.   And my kid loves watching the seals.

  

In terms of A4 I would suggest

Spare clean carb ready to go is priceless.  On numerous occasions I swapped
carbs while under sail.  You can then clean the crappy one and use it as a
spare.  Your problems sounds more electrical then fuel. 

Get electronic ignition, and an appropriate coil.  You can find them around
100$ or so.  

Make sure wires and sparkplugs are good quality.  

Distributor cap and rotor should have nice clean contacts. 

Have few spare coils.  

How is your oil pressure?

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2014 11:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

 

Alright, the saga continues.

We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared,
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for
having black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.

On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that,
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine
some more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower.
the whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter,
then run normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.

We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit
of the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the
mouth of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by
shoals and some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the
harbor twice over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4
or 4.5knts through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting
that current. On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other
shoal. it was a little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our
mooring was dead, head to wind, along with the current in the same
direction, I lost forward motion under sail and started the engine. She
started right up and we motored onto the mooring without incident.

So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below
and pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4
hours running time.

I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure
but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that
time. I think it came with the rebuild kit.

My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb
that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original
engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to
do now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap
them back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you
guys think I should maybe try another path forward.

Danny



 

P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!





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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

 Petar, I spent a weekend at Cutty two weekends ago.  It was blowing hard 
enough out of east to make outside moorings/anchorage uncomfortable for all by 
large cruising yachts.  In a frontal passage conditions, winds blow E and NE 
and Cuttyhunk is fully exposed and miserable.  There is a sandbar however to 
the NE with a small colony of seals on it.  Nobody goes as the bottom is kelp 
and thought to not hold well.  Very nice and Calm in those conditions  I have 
done it on 3 occasions over the last 2 years and got a good night sleep 
watching other anchored boats rock and roll across the harbor.   And my kid 
loves watching the seals. Thats great information!!  I plan on visiting 
Cuttyhunk a lot now that I've finally made it there!!  In terms of A4 I would 
suggestSpare clean carb ready to go is priceless.  On numerous occasions I 
swapped carbs while under sail.  You can then clean the crappy one and use it 
as a spare.  Your problems sounds more electrical then fuel. Get electronic 
ignition, and an appropriate coil.  You can find them around  100$ or so.  I 
have the Moyer exchange engine with all the bells and whistles.  EI,  & 
electric fuel pump  Make sure wires and sparkplugs are good quality.  All New 
with the exchange engine.  Moyer certified!  Distributor cap and rotor should 
have nice clean contacts. They're brand new... maybe 30 hours on them.Have 
few spare coils.  I have a spare Electronic ignition kit on board!  How is your 
oil pressure? very good!  Petar HorvaticSundowner76 C&C 38MkIINewport, RI   
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2014 11:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! Alright, the saga 
continues.

We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, 
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to 
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a 
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for having 
black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.

On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that, 
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine some 
more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower. the 
whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, then run 
normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.

We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit of 
the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the mouth 
of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by shoals and 
some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice 
over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts 
through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that current. 
On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other shoal. it was a 
little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our mooring was dead, head to 
wind, along with the current in the same direction, I lost forward motion under 
sail and started the engine. She started right up and we motored onto the 
mooring without incident.

So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below and 
pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4 hours 
running time.

I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure 
but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that time. I 
think it came with the rebuild kit.

My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb 
that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original 
engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to do 
now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap them 
back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you guys 
think I should maybe try another path forward.

Danny

 P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!

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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Have you contacted Moyer Marine to ask them about the trouble you're
having? I hear their support is top notch. To me, it sounds ignition
related. Those coils when they get hot...
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8411
There have been a few threads about the EI and coils.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 12:02 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Petar,
>
> I spent a weekend at Cutty two weekends ago.  It was blowing hard enough
> out of east to make outside moorings/anchorage uncomfortable for all by
> large cruising yachts.  In a frontal passage conditions, winds blow E and
> NE and Cuttyhunk is fully exposed and miserable.
> There is a sandbar however to the NE with a small colony of seals on it.
> Nobody goes as the bottom is kelp and thought to not hold well.  Very nice
> and Calm in those conditions  I have done it on 3 occasions over the last 2
> years and got a good night sleep watching other anchored boats rock and
> roll across the harbor.   And my kid loves watching the seals.
>
> Thats great information!!  I plan on visiting Cuttyhunk a lot now that
> I've finally made it there!!
>
> In terms of A4 I would suggest
> Spare clean carb ready to go is priceless.  On numerous occasions I
> swapped carbs while under sail.  You can then clean the crappy one and use
> it as a spare.  Your problems sounds more electrical then fuel.
> Get electronic ignition, and an appropriate coil.  You can find them
> around  100$ or so.
>
> I have the Moyer exchange engine with all the bells and whistles.  EI,
>  & electric fuel pump
>
>
> Make sure wires and sparkplugs are good quality.
>
> All New with the exchange engine.  Moyer certified!
>
>
> Distributor cap and rotor should have nice clean contacts.
>
> They're brand new... maybe 30 hours on them.
>
>
> Have few spare coils.
>
> I have a spare Electronic ignition kit on board!
>
>
> How is your oil pressure?
>
> very good!
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
> Sundowner
> 76 C&C 38MkII
> Newport, RI
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Danny
> Haughey via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 13, 2014 11:33 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
>
> Alright, the saga continues.
>
> We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared,
> filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to
> Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a
> little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for
> having black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.
>
> On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided
> that, because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the
> engine some more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit
> slower. the whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some
> sputter, then run normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a
> slow stall.
>
> We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit
> of the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the
> mouth of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by
> shoals and some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the
> harbor twice over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4
> or 4.5knts through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting
> that current. On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other
> shoal. it was a little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our
> mooring was dead, head to wind, along with the current in the same
> direction, I lost forward motion under sail and started the engine. She
> started right up and we motored onto the mooring without incident.
>
> So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below
> and pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4
> hours running time.
>
> I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not
> sure but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at
> that time. I think it came with the rebuild kit.
>
> My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the
> carb that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the
> original engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I
> would like to do now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange
> engine. and swap them back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some
> more. Unless you guys think I should maybe try another path forward.
>
> Danny
>
>
> P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> pag

Stus-List block lubricant

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

We just finished a week long distance race series and during the race I
noticed that the blocks that we lube with T-9 become pretty gunked up.  We
cleaned with a solvent, rinsed with soapy water and fresh water, then
re-applied.   Same result after a day or two.  Anyone have similar
experience?   Does anyone have another product suggestion?  Anyone use
Mclube One Drop?

Thanks,
Pete
37
Lake Superior


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Re: Stus-List block lubricant

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I just lubed some sticky snatch blocks with Harken Mclube - the aerosol 
version. Eased right up and now spin nicely



--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Aug 13, 2014, at 13:46, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> We just finished a week long distance race series and during the race I
> noticed that the blocks that we lube with T-9 become pretty gunked up.  We
> cleaned with a solvent, rinsed with soapy water and fresh water, then
> re-applied.   Same result after a day or two.  Anyone have similar
> experience?   Does anyone have another product suggestion?  Anyone use
> Mclube One Drop?
> 
> Thanks,
> Pete
> 37
> Lake Superior
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List Shannon 38

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I'm anything but a blue water sailor so my opinion is only worth what
you're paying. If there's something I've learned it's that I should ignore
most of what's posted on Sailnet and Sailing Anarchy. I heed the advice of
the people on this list. When it comes to blue water sailing I don't know
of anyone who's opinion I value more than Andrew's.

But I sail on a lake ;)
Oh, and there's about two boats I'de consider alongside C&Cs for when it
comes time for "the big boat". A passport 40 or a Norseman 447, both are
north of 100k present value. C&Cs are a tremendous value.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 11:08 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi, Bob — the Shannons are pretty boats, for the most part well-built.
>  From the photos, this one looks like there’s been some water damage to
> interior woodwork; and the electrical system and much of the electronics
> are very dated.  And they’re not going to sail anything like a C&C.
>
> Pretty high price for a 70’s boat.  I imagine it’ll sell for less...
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Aug 12, 2014, at 7:23 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I've been an 8-9 year consumer of Stu's List wisdom - mostly contributing
> questions and an occasional opinion. I'm curious what people think of the
> Shannon 38, referenced below, as a retirement boat for bumping up and down
> the US East Coast. I realize it's not a C&C but the opinions of many on the
> list are held in high regard. The dismasting and repair are of special
> interest.
>
>
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1978/Shannon-staysail-Cutter-2644578/Shelter-Island/NY/United-States#.U-qVSONdWSo
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
>
> ___
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>
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> page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Danny,

You don't need to use premium gas in a relatively low compression 
engine unless your fuel hose is not gas meth compatible (and maybe 
some ancient injection equipment as found on old VWs, not the case 
here!). The higher octane rating does not make it "better" gas but it 
does slow the burn rate.


So, sooty plugs eh. To state the obvious: fuel too rich or more 
precisely fuel/air ratio too high since we've ruled out plug heat 
range, low compression and sticky oil wiper rings by virtue of Moyer rebuild.

Air side:
Is you air filter clean? engine space too tight? vent blower run continuous?
Fuel side:
main jet too big is already covered off by Moyer, float set too high? 
or what I believe is the culprit... float needle valve not seating 
correctly or a bad needle & seat (all it takes is a speck o' dirt there).

What is your fuel pump pressure set at? It could be too high.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35-1
east side o' Vancounver Island
clouds and showers on first of two weeks off :(

At 08:43 AM 13/08/2014, you wrote:

I am using champion RC12YC and using regular unleaded gas.

I guess if I'm to use premium, I'm going to need to lug it to the 
boat in 5 gallon jugs...



-- Original Message --
From: JOHN D IRVIN 
To: Danny Haughey ,  "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 


Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 08:38:52 -0700

Are you using a hot enough plug and premium fuel?


On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 11:33:11 AM, Danny Haughey via 
CnC-List  wrote:



- Forwarded Message -

Alright, the saga continues.

We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line 
cleared, filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great 
all the way to Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of 
those hours I ran it a little harder than I normally do after having 
read Don M's reasons for having black sooty spark plugs. I thought 
my problems were solved.


On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and 
decided that, because the wind was a little light, we would motor 
home to run the engine some more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the 
same thing, only a bit slower. the whole, slow, stall happened over 
maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, then run normal, a little more 
sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.


We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a 
benefit of the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about 
sailing onto the mouth of the river due to the current and very 
tight channel flanked by shoals and some pretty ominous looking 
rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice over this last 
weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts through 
the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that 
current. On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other 
shoal. it was a little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to 
our mooring was dead, head to wind, along with the current in the 
same direction, I lost forward motion under sail and started the 
engine. She started right up and we motored onto the mooring without incident.


So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went 
below and pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again 
after maybe 4 hours running time.


I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm 
not sure but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended 
one at that time. I think it came with the rebuild kit.


My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out 
the carb that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt 
off the original engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I 
think what I would like to do now is, clean up the carb that came 
with the exchange engine. and swap them back out. I'll then replace 
the plugs and run it some more. Unless you guys think I should maybe 
try another path forward.


Danny



P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!



Could be the carburetor. I've had this issue too many times. I chose 
to take off the carb, break it down completely and clean it out. 
Moyer Marine's A4 guide is very useful.


Brian
s/v Rekofa The Blue Whale
1979 C&C 34
Baltimore, MD

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

On Aug 10, 2014, at 9:48 AM, "Burt Stratton via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Good question. I suppose it is possible but seems unlikely. The fuel 
pump ought to be able to overcome that. Can you drain the trap? I 
would drain or remove the trap and try it.  Try a new P-trap 
designed for the purpose. Might want to check the operation of your fuel pump.


I just put my boat in the water for the first time and had a similar 
issue. 5 minutes and then stall. Starts back up after a short wait 
but won't run for longer than about five minutes. Sort of ran if 
fully choked. Turned out to be a broken electrical feed to my 
electric fuel pump. Hard to believe how long it ran w

Re: Stus-List block lubricant

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Or Captain Phab

-Original Message-
From: "Pete Shelquist via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎08-‎13 1:46 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List block lubricant


We just finished a week long distance race series and during the race I
noticed that the blocks that we lube with T-9 become pretty gunked up.  We
cleaned with a solvent, rinsed with soapy water and fresh water, then
re-applied.   Same result after a day or two.  Anyone have similar
experience?   Does anyone have another product suggestion?  Anyone use
Mclube One Drop?

Thanks,
Pete
37
Lake Superior


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Re: Stus-List Shannon 38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

On Aug 13, 2014, at 1:10 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List  
wrote:

> But I sail on a lake ;)

I do, too.


Mine’s bigger…   :^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI___
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Re: Stus-List Engine stalling after shifting

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I got a laser-tach from Amazon for ~$20.  It came with reflective tape
which you cut to size.  I put a piece on the main pully and transmission
output shaft.  I used it to make sure of the accuracy of the installed tach
and verify the gear ratio.  Then I also used it to set the low idle speed.
Low idle has to be tweeked for accuracy when cold and hot.  Maybe it
changes, maybe not.
Various diesel additives are available but after searching the internet for
comparisons based on lubricity the product that stood out was made by
opti-lube.  Their original formulation, XPD, seems to work well for me.
The concentration is strong enough that you can actually smell the product
after it has been properly mixed.  By having the laser-tach I was actually
able to detect about 200rpm increase in speed while at idle and a
corresponding higher rpm while at full load.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 12, 2014 3:49 PM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> The Universal M4-30 in my boat tends to stall frequently when shifting.
>  This primarily happens when moving forward and shifting into reverse,
> which is of course not good for stress levels when one has to pull into a
> slip and you can't count on slowing down.  Maybe I could increase the RPM
> somewhat before shifting, but that seems bad for the transmission so I
> haven't done it.  Any ideas what this might indicate?  Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
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> page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List block lubricant

[Rich Knowles via CnC-List]

Stop after soap and water treatment. Plastic bearing blocks don't generally 
require any lubricant other than a good rinsing occasionally. I have all Harken 
running gear and traveler and have never done anything other than rinse. 17 
years for some of it. 

Rich 



> On Aug 13, 2014, at 14:46, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> We just finished a week long distance race series and during the race I
> noticed that the blocks that we lube with T-9 become pretty gunked up.  We
> cleaned with a solvent, rinsed with soapy water and fresh water, then
> re-applied.   Same result after a day or two.  Anyone have similar
> experience?   Does anyone have another product suggestion?  Anyone use
> Mclube One Drop?
> 
> Thanks,
> Pete
> 37
> Lake Superior
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
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> at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Russ! Is you air filter clean? You mean flame arrestor?  Yes 
engine space too tight? I doubt it.  It has pretty large openings 
from the open side compartment and I ran a hose from a stern mounted, forward 
faceing vent to the engine compartment and hose from the engine compartment 
through an exhaust fan, to an aft facing, stern mounted vent. vent 
blower run continuous? I run the vent about 10 minutes before, all during and 
at least 10 minutes after, running the engine. main jet too big is 
already covered off by Moyer, float set too high? or what I believe is the 
culprit... float needle valve not seating correctly or a bad needle & seat (all 
it takes is a speck o' dirt there). I'm hoping by opening up and cleaning the 
carburetor that came with the Moyer exchange engine it will sort out any 
Jetting or needle valve problems.  I think I'm going to have to remove the gas 
tank completely and get it really, really clean.  I'm just hoping I can do it 
at the end of the season.  I think I'm going to redo the engine wiring harness 
as well over the off season. Thanks again,Danny  -- Original Message 
--
From: Russ & Melody 
To: Danny Haughey ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 11:16:12 -0700

Hi Danny,

 You don't need to use premium gas in a relatively low compression engine 
unless your fuel hose is not gas meth compatible (and maybe some ancient 
injection equipment as found on old VWs, not the case here!). The higher octane 
rating does not make it "better" gas but it does slow the burn rate.

 So, sooty plugs eh. To state the obvious: fuel too rich or more precisely 
fuel/air ratio too high since we've ruled out plug heat range, low compression 
and sticky oil wiper rings by virtue of Moyer rebuild.
 Air side:
 Is you air filter clean? engine space too tight? vent blower run continuous?
 Fuel side:
 main jet too big is already covered off by Moyer, float set too high? or what 
I believe is the culprit... float needle valve not seating correctly or a bad 
needle & seat (all it takes is a speck o' dirt there). 
 What is your fuel pump pressure set at? It could be too high.

 Cheers, Russ
 Sweet 35-1
 east side o' Vancounver Island
 clouds and showers on first of two weeks off :(

 At 08:43 AM 13/08/2014, you wrote:
I am using champion RC12YC and using regular unleaded gas.
  
 I guess if I'm to use premium, I'm going to need to lug it to the boat in 5 
gallon jugs...

 
 -- Original Message --
 From: JOHN D IRVIN 
 To: Danny Haughey ,  "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
 Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 08:38:52 -0700

 Are you using a hot enough plug and premium fuel?

 
 On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 11:33:11 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 
 - Forwarded Message -

 Alright, the saga continues.

 We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, 
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to 
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a 
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for having 
black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.
 
 On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that, 
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine some 
more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower. the 
whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, then run 
normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.

 We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit of 
the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the mouth 
of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by shoals and 
some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice 
over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts 
through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that current. 
On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other shoal. it was a 
little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our mooring was dead, head to 
wind, along with the current in the same direction, I lost forward motion under 
sail and started the engine. She started right up and we motored onto the 
mooring without incident.

 So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below and 
pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4 hours 
running time.

 I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure 
but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that time. I 
think it came with the rebuild kit.

 My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb 
that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the 

Re: Stus-List block lubricant (and goodbye Robin Williams)

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

T9.

Yeah, I've seen that goopy result.  I don't use it any more.  It might 
be a great corrosion prohibiter, but my opinion is still out on that as 
well.


The only thing I trust is a good fresh water rinse.

Back about 220 years ago I was a scuba instructor working a 90 foot boat 
in the Caribbean, and I asked the Captain/Owner why he was always 
heading into squalls.  'Free fresh water rinse,' he said.  I thought I 
understood, but really didn't, because I didn't own my own boat.
Later, I was sailing with a guy who knew everything, (including how to 
sail my boat,) and at the end of the day I said 'well, it's about time 
you did something, why don't you wash the boat down while I walk down 
the dock and talk with Cheryl.'  He showed up a few minutes later and 
said, 'Do you mean you want me to hose off everything that's metal?' and 
I said 'no, I want you to hose off everything that's BOAT.'


And even later, I hadn't seen rain (i.e. water falling from the sky) in 
three years, and went a little wild during a rainstorm, and blasted 
Clapton's 'Let It Rain' along with Pete Townsend's 'Rain' and a few 
other rain oriented tunes through my cockpit speakers, while I danced on 
the foredeck.


Onto every boat, a little rain must fall.  It cleans the rig.

And even later than that, I sailed with a guy who was a certified 
expert.  He told me to oil the bearings in my Harken Mark I furler.  
That's the last thing you want to do.  But you really can't tell experts 
what to do.  All those bearings need is a fresh water rinse, but if they 
get sticky it *might* be because someone cranked the halyard on the jib 
too tight.  It must have happened while I was asleep, because when I 
slacked off on the halyard about two inches the furler suddenly started 
working again.


Wal

PS.  Nanu Nanu, dude.



Pete wrote:

We just finished a week long distance race series and during the race I
noticed that the blocks that we lube with T-9 become pretty gunked up.  We
cleaned with a solvent, rinsed with soapy water and fresh water, then
re-applied.   Same result after a day or two.  Anyone have similar
experience?



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Check the links on Moyer that I provided, a lot of people have had similar
issues with the electronic ignition on Moyer rebuilds.

My A4 has always run rich, but it never stalls out. Sooty plugs are the
norm for me, but again, doesn't stall. I don't have the adjustable main jet
so I'm stuck with whatever mixture at cruising RPM. Better rich than lean.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 2:43 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Russ!
>
> 
> Is you air filter clean?
>
> You mean flame arrestor?  Yes
>
> 
> engine space too tight?
>
> I doubt it.  It has pretty large openings from the open side compartment
> and I ran a hose from a stern mounted, forward faceing vent to the engine
> compartment and hose from the engine compartment through an exhaust fan, to
> an aft facing, stern mounted vent.
>
> 
> vent blower run continuous?
>
> I run the vent about 10 minutes before, all during and at least 10 minutes
> after, running the engine.
>
> 
> main jet too big is already covered off by Moyer, float set too high? or
> what I believe is the culprit... float needle valve not seating correctly
> or a bad needle & seat (all it takes is a speck o' dirt there).
>
> I'm hoping by opening up and cleaning the carburetor that came with the
> Moyer exchange engine it will sort out any Jetting or needle valve
> problems.  I think I'm going to have to remove the gas tank completely and
> get it really, really clean.  I'm just hoping I can do it at the end of the
> season.  I think I'm going to redo the engine wiring harness as well over
> the off season.
>
> Thanks again,
> Danny
>
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: Russ & Melody 
> To: Danny Haughey ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
> Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 11:16:12 -0700
>
> Hi Danny,
>
> You don't need to use premium gas in a relatively low compression engine
> unless your fuel hose is not gas meth compatible (and maybe some ancient
> injection equipment as found on old VWs, not the case here!). The higher
> octane rating does not make it "better" gas but it does slow the burn rate.
>
> So, sooty plugs eh. To state the obvious: fuel too rich or more precisely
> fuel/air ratio too high since we've ruled out plug heat range, low
> compression and sticky oil wiper rings by virtue of Moyer rebuild.
> Air side:
> Is you air filter clean? engine space too tight? vent blower run
> continuous?
> Fuel side:
> main jet too big is already covered off by Moyer, float set too high? or
> what I believe is the culprit... float needle valve not seating correctly
> or a bad needle & seat (all it takes is a speck o' dirt there).
> What is your fuel pump pressure set at? It could be too high.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35-1
> east side o' Vancounver Island
>
>
> *clouds and showers on first of two weeks off :( *At 08:43 AM 13/08/2014,
> you wrote:
>
> I am using champion RC12YC and using regular unleaded gas.
>
> I guess if I'm to use premium, I'm going to need to lug it to the boat in
> 5 gallon jugs...
>
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: JOHN D IRVIN 
> To: Danny Haughey ,  "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
> Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 08:38:52 -0700
>
> Are you using a hot enough plug and premium fuel?
>
>
> On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 11:33:11 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> - Forwarded Message -
>
> Alright, the saga continues.
>
> We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared,
> filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to
> Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a
> little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for
> having black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.
>
> On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided
> that, because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the
> engine some more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit
> slower. the whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some
> sputter, then run normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a
> slow stall.
>
> We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit
> of the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the
> mouth of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by
> shoals and some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the
> harbor twice over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4
> or 4.5knts through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting
> that current. On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other
> shoal. it was a little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our
> mooring was dead, head to wind, along with th

Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

See my  comment in-line

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2014 2:43 PM
To: russ...@telus.net
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

 

Hi Russ!

 



Is you air filter clean?

 

You mean flame arrestor?  Yes

 



engine space too tight?

 

I doubt it.  It has pretty large openings from the open side compartment and I 
ran a hose from a stern mounted, forward faceing vent to the engine compartment 
and hose from the engine compartment through an exhaust fan, to an aft facing, 
stern mounted vent.

 



vent blower run continuous?

 

I run the vent about 10 minutes before, all during and at least 10 minutes 
after, running the engine.

 



main jet too big is already covered off by Moyer, float set too high? or what I 
believe is the culprit... float needle valve not seating correctly or a bad 
needle & seat (all it takes is a speck o' dirt there).

 

I'm hoping by opening up and cleaning the carburetor that came with the Moyer 
exchange engine it will sort out any Jetting or needle valve problems.  I think 
I'm going to have to remove the gas tank completely and get it really, really 
clean.  I'm just hoping I can do it at the end of the season.  I think I'm 
going to redo the engine wiring harness as well over the off season.

 

[Marek Dziedzic] 

A resoanble filter should take care of this one.

 

Thanks again,

Danny

 

 

-- Original Message --
From: Russ & Melody 
To: Danny Haughey ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 11:16:12 -0700

Hi Danny,

You don't need to use premium gas in a relatively low compression engine unless 
your fuel hose is not gas meth compatible (and maybe some ancient injection 
equipment as found on old VWs, not the case here!). The higher octane rating 
does not make it "better" gas but it does slow the burn rate.

So, sooty plugs eh. To state the obvious: fuel too rich or more precisely 
fuel/air ratio too high since we've ruled out plug heat range, low compression 
and sticky oil wiper rings by virtue of Moyer rebuild.
Air side:
Is you air filter clean? engine space too tight? vent blower run continuous?
Fuel side:
main jet too big is already covered off by Moyer, float set too high? or what I 
believe is the culprit... float needle valve not seating correctly or a bad 
needle & seat (all it takes is a speck o' dirt there). 
What is your fuel pump pressure set at? It could be too high.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35-1
east side o' Vancounver Island
clouds and showers on first of two weeks off :(

At 08:43 AM 13/08/2014, you wrote:

I am using champion RC12YC and using regular unleaded gas.
 
I guess if I'm to use premium, I'm going to need to lug it to the boat in 5 
gallon jugs...


-- Original Message --
From: JOHN D IRVIN 
To: Danny Haughey ,  "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 08:38:52 -0700

Are you using a hot enough plug and premium fuel?


On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 11:33:11 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:


- Forwarded Message -

Alright, the saga continues.

We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, 
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to 
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a 
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for having 
black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.

On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that, 
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine some 
more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower. the 
whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, then run 
normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.

We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit of 
the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the mouth 
of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by shoals and 
some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice 
over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts 
through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that current. 
On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other shoal. it was a 
little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our mooring was dead, head to 
wind, along with the current in the same direction, I lost forward motion under 
sail and started the engine. She started right up and we motored onto the 
mooring without incident.

So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below and 
pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4 

Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[dwight via CnC-List]

Think about repowering with a reliable diesel.OK you A4 enthusiasts hit me
hard.but if he likes the feel of sail his Viking and I know that feel is
good, just might be worth a new engine

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: August 13, 2014 12:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

 

Alright, the saga continues.

We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared,
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for
having black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.

On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that,
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine
some more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower.
the whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter,
then run normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.

We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit
of the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the
mouth of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by
shoals and some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the
harbor twice over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4
or 4.5knts through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting
that current. On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other
shoal. it was a little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our
mooring was dead, head to wind, along with the current in the same
direction, I lost forward motion under sail and started the engine. She
started right up and we motored onto the mooring without incident.

So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below
and pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4
hours running time.

I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure
but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that
time. I think it came with the rebuild kit.

My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb
that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original
engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to
do now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap
them back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you
guys think I should maybe try another path forward.

Danny



 

P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!





  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/8000 - Release Date: 08/07/14

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Re: Stus-List block lubricant

[dwight via CnC-List]

Try Fluid film

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pete
Shelquist via CnC-List
Sent: August 13, 2014 2:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List block lubricant


We just finished a week long distance race series and during the race I
noticed that the blocks that we lube with T-9 become pretty gunked up.  We
cleaned with a solvent, rinsed with soapy water and fresh water, then
re-applied.   Same result after a day or two.  Anyone have similar
experience?   Does anyone have another product suggestion?  Anyone use
Mclube One Drop?

Thanks,
Pete
37
Lake Superior


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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/8000 - Release Date: 08/07/14


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Re: Stus-List Shannon 38

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Bruce Tait is nearby in Sag Harbor.  Boat is located on Shelter Island a short 
sail away.   My friend had a 1978 Shannon 28.  Based on the year this is 
probably a very early hull for the 38.  Shannon's are high quality offshore 
boats designed for distance cruising.  They are relatively slow and don't point 
well but are designed to sail in heavy weather.  The boat is a modified full 
keel.  It will be more sea kindly and track better than a  C&C and is more 
comparable to a landfall.  They go for high prices and were substantially more 
expensive than a  C&C.   Jerry 27 V J&J.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 13, 2014, at 11:08 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi, Bob — the Shannons are pretty boats, for the most part well-built.  From 
> the photos, this one looks like there’s been some water damage to interior 
> woodwork; and the electrical system and much of the electronics are very 
> dated.  And they’re not going to sail anything like a C&C.
> 
> Pretty high price for a 70’s boat.  I imagine it’ll sell for less...
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Aug 12, 2014, at 7:23 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I've been an 8-9 year consumer of Stu's List wisdom - mostly contributing 
>> questions and an occasional opinion. I'm curious what people think of the 
>> Shannon 38, referenced below, as a retirement boat for bumping up and down 
>> the US East Coast. I realize it's not a C&C but the opinions of many on the 
>> list are held in high regard. The dismasting and repair are of special 
>> interest.
>> 
>> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1978/Shannon-staysail-Cutter-2644578/Shelter-Island/NY/United-States#.U-qVSONdWSo
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> Bob M
>> Ox 33-1
>> Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List block lubricant

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Have you ever tried Sailkote. If there is anything that needs lubricating,
this things usually works.

Marek (in Ottawa)

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2014 5:36 PM
To: 'Pete Shelquist'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List block lubricant

Try Fluid film

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pete
Shelquist via CnC-List
Sent: August 13, 2014 2:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List block lubricant


We just finished a week long distance race series and during the race I
noticed that the blocks that we lube with T-9 become pretty gunked up.  We
cleaned with a solvent, rinsed with soapy water and fresh water, then
re-applied.   Same result after a day or two.  Anyone have similar
experience?   Does anyone have another product suggestion?  Anyone use
Mclube One Drop?

Thanks,
Pete
37
Lake Superior


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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Dwight,

 

I won't debate the temptation or value of a replacement engine. This is not
so much a technical discussion as it is a discussion of the balance between
cost, aggravation and quality of life (aboard).

 

Danny,

 

I will say that my 1974 A-4 runs very reliably with a couple upgrades
(electronic ignition and electric fuel pump)

 

My point is that you have options. If the cost of a replacement engine makes
that an impractical option I'm sure you can get the A-4 running reliably. I
don't know your mechanical acumen, experience, tenacity or courage so it is
hard for me to make a lot of recommendations. 

 

With what I have read it sounds like you need to go back to some basics.
When a motor fine for 3 hours under load without a problem you have
eliminated a lot of potential problems like heat, vapor lock and fuel
supply, Your ignition system could be suspect (low or high voltage). Also,
quality of gas entering the carb can change over time.  Intermittent
problems like what you are describing sometimes require a great deal of
discipline to find. Be sure to make only one change at a time to be sure you
don't compound the problem and make it difficult to determine what you did
that changed the symptom. Sometimes another set of eyes can be valuable.
Sorry I can't be more specific. 

 

Skip

 

P. S. Don't be distracted by dirty looking plugs on these motors after a few
hours of run time. Unless that plug is fouled and not firing it is not your
problem.   

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2014 5:34 PM
To: 'Danny Haughey'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

 

Think about repowering with a reliable diesel.OK you A4 enthusiasts hit me
hard.but if he likes the feel of sail his Viking and I know that feel is
good, just might be worth a new engine

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: August 13, 2014 12:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

 

Alright, the saga continues.

We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared,
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for
having black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.

On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that,
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine
some more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower.
the whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter,
then run normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.

We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit
of the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the
mouth of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by
shoals and some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the
harbor twice over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4
or 4.5knts through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting
that current. On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other
shoal. it was a little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our
mooring was dead, head to wind, along with the current in the same
direction, I lost forward motion under sail and started the engine. She
started right up and we motored onto the mooring without incident.

So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below
and pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4
hours running time.

I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure
but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that
time. I think it came with the rebuild kit.

My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb
that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original
engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to
do now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap
them back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you
guys think I should maybe try another path forward.

Danny

 

P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/8000 - Release Date: 08/07/14

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Re: Stus-List Shannon 38

[davidrisch75 via CnC-List]

I owned a full keeled "easily tracked" boat.   Thing couldnt sail or motor out 
of its own way otherwise. ..designed by the grandson of the "Godfather" of 
designers too.

Give me a well designed fin/spade combination like my C & C 40-2 any day 
offshore.  She has proven herself time and time again as easily balanced and 
the therefore easily tracked in ocean gales.


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone Original message 
From: Jerome Tauber via CnC-List  
Date:08/13/2014  6:14 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: Frederick G 
Street , cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Shannon 38 

Bruce Tait is nearby in Sag Harbor.  Boat is located on Shelter Island a short 
sail away.   My friend had a 1978 Shannon 28.  Based on the year this is 
probably a very early hull for the 38.  Shannon's are high quality offshore 
boats designed for distance cruising.  They are relatively slow and don't point 
well but are designed to sail in heavy weather.  The boat is a modified full 
keel.  It will be more sea kindly and track better than a  C&C and is more 
comparable to a landfall.  They go for high prices and were substantially more 
expensive than a  C&C.   Jerry 27 V J&J.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 13, 2014, at 11:08 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>
> Hi, Bob — the Shannons are pretty boats, for the most part well-built.  From 
> the photos, this one looks like there’s been some water damage to interior 
> woodwork; and the electrical system and much of the electronics are very 
> dated.  And they’re not going to sail anything like a C&C.
>
> Pretty high price for a 70’s boat.  I imagine it’ll sell for less...
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
>> On Aug 12, 2014, at 7:23 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>>
>> I've been an 8-9 year consumer of Stu's List wisdom - mostly contributing 
>> questions and an occasional opinion. I'm curious what people think of the 
>> Shannon 38, referenced below, as a retirement boat for bumping up and down 
>> the US East Coast. I realize it's not a C&C but the opinions of many on the 
>> list are held in high regard. The dismasting and repair are of special 
>> interest.
>>
>> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1978/Shannon-staysail-Cutter-2644578/Shelter-Island/NY/United-States#.U-qVSONdWSo
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Bob M
>> Ox 33-1
>> Jax, FL
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> at:
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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Ha...this is a brand new Moyer marine exchange engine.  No way I'm going diesel 
in this boat...  I can't believe we went this long without that recommendation 
yet...


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: dwight  
Date: 08/13/2014  5:34 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: 'Danny Haughey' ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: RE: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 
 
Think about repowering with a reliable diesel…OK you A4 enthusiasts hit me 
hard…but if he likes the feel of sail his Viking and I know that feel is good, 
just might be worth a new engine
 
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: August 13, 2014 12:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
 
Alright, the saga continues.

We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, 
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to 
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a 
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for having 
black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.

On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that, 
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine some 
more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower. the 
whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, then run 
normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.

We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit of 
the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the mouth 
of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by shoals and 
some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice 
over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts 
through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that current. 
On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other shoal. it was a 
little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our mooring was dead, head to 
wind, along with the current in the same direction, I lost forward motion under 
sail and started the engine. She started right up and we motored onto the 
mooring without incident.

So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below and 
pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4 hours 
running time.

I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure 
but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that time. I 
think it came with the rebuild kit.

My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb 
that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original 
engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to do 
now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap them 
back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you guys 
think I should maybe try another path forward.

Danny


 
P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!



No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/8000 - Release Date: 08/07/14___
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Re: Stus-List block lubricant

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

Generally with blocks that have ball / roller / needle bearings you do
not want a slippery lubricant. The blocks work by having the bearings
roll not slide. A proper grease / wax has the property of carrying away
debris, preventing corrosion and leaving a tiny film between the elements
without causing them to slide.

Most lubricant when rolled over in the presence of water will end up
mixing with the water, the result being aptly described as "goopy".
So oiling or greasing an open bearing ( no seals ) is never likely to work.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 19:04:26 + 
From: Wally Bryant  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List block lubricant       (and goodbye Robin 
     Williams) 
Message-ID: <53ebb6ba.70...@wbryant.com> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed 
 
T9. 
 
Yeah, I've seen that goopy result.  I don't use it any more.  It might  
be a great corrosion prohibiter, but my opinion is still out on that as  
well. 
 
The only thing I trust is a good fresh water rinse. 
 
Back about 220 years ago I was a scuba instructor working a 90 foot boat  
in the Caribbean, and I asked the Captain/Owner why he was always  
heading into squalls.  'Free fresh water rinse,' he said.  I thought I  
understood, but really didn't, because I didn't own my own boat.     
Later, I was sailing with a guy who knew everything, (including how to  
sail my boat,) and at the end of the day I said 'well, it's about time  
you did something, why don't you wash the boat down while I walk down  
the dock and talk with Cheryl.'  He showed up a few minutes later and  
said, 'Do you mean you want me to hose off everything that's metal?' and  
I said 'no, I want you to hose off everything that's BOAT.' 
 
And even later, I hadn't seen rain (i.e. water falling from the sky) in  
three years, and went a little wild during a rainstorm, and blasted  
Clapton's 'Let It Rain' along with Pete Townsend's 'Rain' and a few  
other rain oriented tunes through my cockpit speakers, while I danced on  
the foredeck. 
 
Onto every boat, a little rain must fall.  It cleans the rig. 
 
And even later than that, I sailed with a guy who was a certified  
expert.  He told me to oil the bearings in my Harken Mark I furler.   
That's the last thing you want to do.  But you really can't tell experts  
what to do.  All those bearings need is a fresh water rinse, but if they  
get sticky it *might* be because someone cranked the halyard on the jib  
too tight.  It must have happened while I was asleep, because when I  
slacked off on the halyard about two inches the furler suddenly started  
working again. 
 
Wal 
 
PS.  Nanu Nanu, dude. 
 
 
 
Pete wrote: 
> We just finished a week long distance race series and during the race I 
> noticed that the blocks that we lube with T-9 become pretty gunked up.  We 
> cleaned with a solvent, rinsed with soapy water and fresh water, then 
> re-applied.   Same result after a day or two.  Anyone have similar 
> experience? 
 
 
--  
s/v Stella Blue 
www.wbryant.com 
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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

So electric fuel pump and electronic ignition?

 

Look at the electric feed to the fuel pump. Does it go through the oil pressure 
sensor? In line fuse? Check all those connections. Bypass the oil pressure 
sensor for long enough to eliminate it as the problem. You have an oil pressure 
gauge right? Is it reading steady good pressure?

 

That engine will run without the fuel pump for at least five minutes once the 
carb bowl fills up. 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2014 6:58 PM
To: dwight...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

 

Ha...this is a brand new Moyer marine exchange engine.  No way I'm going diesel 
in this boat...  I can't believe we went this long without that recommendation 
yet...

 

 

>From my Android phone 


 Original message 
From: dwight  
Date: 08/13/2014 5:34 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: 'Danny Haughey' ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: RE: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 





Think about repowering with a reliable diesel…OK you A4 enthusiasts hit me 
hard…but if he likes the feel of sail his Viking and I know that feel is good, 
just might be worth a new engine

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: August 13, 2014 12:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

 

Alright, the saga continues.

We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, 
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to 
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a 
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for having 
black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.

On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that, 
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine some 
more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower. the 
whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, then run 
normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.

We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit of 
the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the mouth 
of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by shoals and 
some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice 
over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts 
through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that current. 
On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other shoal. it was a 
little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our mooring was dead, head to 
wind, along with the current in the same direction, I lost forward motion under 
sail and started the engine. She started right up and we motored onto the 
mooring without incident.

So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below and 
pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4 hours 
running time.

I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure 
but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that time. I 
think it came with the rebuild kit.

My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb 
that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original 
engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to do 
now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap them 
back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you guys 
think I should maybe try another path forward.

Danny




 

P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!






  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/8000 - Release Date: 08/07/14

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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Years ago when I had A4 in first boat it would run for a while then die. An old 
time sailor told me to try to put my hand on the coil. If it was too hot to 
touch the coil had an internal short. This could result in a lower voltage 
spark, hence your fouled plugs. 

I installed the Indigo electronic ignition and coil.  Never had issues again. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 13, 2014, at 10:33 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Alright, the saga continues.
> 
> We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, 
> filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to 
> Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a 
> little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for having 
> black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.
> 
> On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that, 
> because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine 
> some more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower. 
> the whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, 
> then run normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.
> 
> We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit of 
> the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the mouth 
> of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by shoals and 
> some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice 
> over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts 
> through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that 
> current. On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other shoal. 
> it was a little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our mooring was 
> dead, head to wind, along with the current in the same direction, I lost 
> forward motion under sail and started the engine. She started right up and we 
> motored onto the mooring without incident.
> 
> So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below 
> and pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4 
> hours running time.
> 
> I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure 
> but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that time. 
> I think it came with the rebuild kit.
> 
> My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb 
> that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original 
> engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to 
> do now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap 
> them back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you 
> guys think I should maybe try another path forward.
> 
> Danny
> 
> 
>  
> P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
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> at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List block lubricant

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I flush blocks, rope clutches, etc liberally with water. The only lube I would 
be tempted to use on Harken blocks is McLube.  

I use Superlube on slides and T-track things. 

Don't forget to flush your furler drum and swivel with water at LEAST annually. 

T-9 is for electrical use, not lube applications. 

If you want to spray a corrosion inhibitor on blocks, try Corrosion Block. It 
doesn't last long but it doesn't seem to leave a residue. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 13, 2014, at 6:05 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Generally with blocks that have ball / roller / needle bearings you do
> not want a slippery lubricant. The blocks work by having the bearings
> roll not slide. A proper grease / wax has the property of carrying away
> debris, preventing corrosion and leaving a tiny film between the elements
> without causing them to slide.
> 
> Most lubricant when rolled over in the presence of water will end up
> mixing with the water, the result being aptly described as "goopy".
> So oiling or greasing an open bearing ( no seals ) is never likely to work.
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
> 
> 
> Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 19:04:26 + 
> From: Wally Bryant  
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List block lubricant   (and goodbye Robin 
> Williams) 
> Message-ID: <53ebb6ba.70...@wbryant.com> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed 
> 
> T9. 
> 
> Yeah, I've seen that goopy result.  I don't use it any more.  It might 
> be a great corrosion prohibiter, but my opinion is still out on that as 
> well. 
> 
> The only thing I trust is a good fresh water rinse. 
> 
> Back about 220 years ago I was a scuba instructor working a 90 foot boat 
> in the Caribbean, and I asked the Captain/Owner why he was always 
> heading into squalls.  'Free fresh water rinse,' he said.  I thought I 
> understood, but really didn't, because I didn't own my own boat. 
> Later, I was sailing with a guy who knew everything, (including how to 
> sail my boat,) and at the end of the day I said 'well, it's about time 
> you did something, why don't you wash the boat down while I walk down 
> the dock and talk with Cheryl.'  He showed up a few minutes later and 
> said, 'Do you mean you want me to hose off everything that's metal?' and 
> I said 'no, I want you to hose off everything that's BOAT.' 
> 
> And even later, I hadn't seen rain (i.e. water falling from the sky) in 
> three years, and went a little wild during a rainstorm, and blasted 
> Clapton's 'Let It Rain' along with Pete Townsend's 'Rain' and a few 
> other rain oriented tunes through my cockpit speakers, while I danced on 
> the foredeck. 
> 
> Onto every boat, a little rain must fall.  It cleans the rig. 
> 
> And even later than that, I sailed with a guy who was a certified 
> expert.  He told me to oil the bearings in my Harken Mark I furler.   
> That's the last thing you want to do.  But you really can't tell experts 
> what to do.  All those bearings need is a fresh water rinse, but if they 
> get sticky it *might* be because someone cranked the halyard on the jib 
> too tight.  It must have happened while I was asleep, because when I 
> slacked off on the halyard about two inches the furler suddenly started 
> working again. 
> 
> Wal 
> 
> PS.  Nanu Nanu, dude. 
> 
> 
> 
> Pete wrote: 
> > We just finished a week long distance race series and during the race I 
> > noticed that the blocks that we lube with T-9 become pretty gunked up.  We 
> > cleaned with a solvent, rinsed with soapy water and fresh water, then 
> > re-applied.   Same result after a day or two.  Anyone have similar 
> > experience? 
> 
> 
> -- 
> s/v Stella Blue 
> www.wbryant.com 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Hi Danny,
This is a long email thread. I've read much of it but scanned over some
parts.
A couple of things:
1) The Moyer Marine website is a better source of A4 info and help.
2) My 33-1 came with a newly rebuilt A4 in 2006. It's performed fairly well
for daysailing. I rarely run the engine for more than ~30 minutes. Somewhat
recently, after motoring awhile (20 minutes?), the engine hesitated. I have
a pump-bulb close to the fuel tank. It was somewhat flaccid, as pump-bulbs
go, so I gave it a few pumps and the engine ran fine thereafter. I'm
thinking there's some sort of blockage in the fuel tank vent but I've not
spent any time looking into it.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi guys,

I understand that Moyer's forum is the best resource for all things 
A4 and I sure appreciated it before my diesel swap.


But I sure hope that Danny doesn't mind our input. I want to hear 
from him, it helps to keep my grey cells operating between the grey 
hairs. :) I believe he should post to both and not exclude his C&C 
friends from this experience.


In the end, most of want to know what worked to fix it.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:12 PM 13/08/2014, you wrote:

Hi Danny,
This is a long email thread. I've read much of it but scanned over some parts.
A couple of things:
1) The Moyer Marine website is a better source of A4 info and help.
2) My 33-1 came with a newly rebuilt A4 in 2006. It's performed 
fairly well for daysailing. I rarely run the engine for more than 
~30 minutes. Somewhat recently, after motoring awhile (20 minutes?), 
the engine hesitated. I have a pump-bulb close to the fuel tank. It 
was somewhat flaccid, as pump-bulbs go, so I gave it a few pumps and 
the engine ran fine thereafter. I'm thinking there's some sort of 
blockage in the fuel tank vent but I've not spent any time looking into it.

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List block lubricant

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Pete,

T-9 works great on electrical connections like battery terminals and such.
It leaves behind a protective film that can be goopy.  I flush my blocks
with fresh water and use Mclube in many places.  I now use One Drop on the
traveler and genoa cars.  It does work wonders...

Jake

Jake Brodersen
"Midnight Mistress"
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton VA



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pete
Shelquist via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2014 1:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List block lubricant


We just finished a week long distance race series and during the race I
noticed that the blocks that we lube with T-9 become pretty gunked up.  We
cleaned with a solvent, rinsed with soapy water and fresh water, then
re-applied.   Same result after a day or two.  Anyone have similar
experience?   Does anyone have another product suggestion?  Anyone use
Mclube One Drop?

Thanks,
Pete
37
Lake Superior


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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[jtsails via CnC-List]

Danny,
>From reading your previous posts on the Moyer forum I suspect that your issues 
>are fuel related, not ignition or wiring. Having said that, it is not a bad 
>idea to have a back up ignition system on the boat and I would suggest that 
>you get moyer to send you a distributer base plate, points and condenser setup 
>along with a new spare coil. I keep a this setup in my spare parts bin on the 
>boat at all times, just in case. you can install the points on the base plate 
>and set them,swap the coil, and run a test to see if the problem continues, 
>then remove the baseplate without touching the points and keep it as a fail 
>safe. Doing this will not only eliminate the ignition system as the problem, 
>but will provide you with a backup system should the EI ever fail (it does 
>happen on occasions). In a separate test, I would suggest a thorough carb 
>cleaning and running the engine from a temporary fuel supply, ie a 5 gallon 
>outboard tank plumbed to the carb. This test will eliminate the tank, fuel and 
>filter as the source of the problem. If you also use a primer bulb in the 
>plumbing you can rule out the fuel pump too. Please be careful of fuel vapor 
>in the bilge, I wouldn't want you to become the first person to ever blow up a 
>boat with an A4 As Burt said, sometimes these problems can be a challenge 
>to sort out, but there are lots of A4's out there that run reliably and engine 
>problems plague owners of every brand of engine. Rest assured that the A4 has 
>one of the most knowledgeable and helpful owner and supplier bases in our 
>field. 
James
Delaney
1976 A4 powered C&C 38
Oriental, NC

PS Black sooty plugs mean rich mixture or weak ignition, a little on the rich 
side will soot them up almost immediately but will not cause an engine to 
shut-down. To shut an engine down, it would take multiple fouled plugs (ie, 
soot that goes across the gap). Most A4's are setup to run very rich and this 
does not cause a problem. There are some interesting threads on the Moyer forum 
about this and the decrease in fuel consumption with a correct mixture. 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
  To: 'dwight' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2014 6:40 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!


  Dwight,

   

  I won't debate the temptation or value of a replacement engine. This is not 
so much a technical discussion as it is a discussion of the balance between 
cost, aggravation and quality of life (aboard).

   

  Danny,

   

  I will say that my 1974 A-4 runs very reliably with a couple upgrades 
(electronic ignition and electric fuel pump)

   

  My point is that you have options. If the cost of a replacement engine makes 
that an impractical option I'm sure you can get the A-4 running reliably. I 
don't know your mechanical acumen, experience, tenacity or courage so it is 
hard for me to make a lot of recommendations. 

   

  With what I have read it sounds like you need to go back to some basics. When 
a motor fine for 3 hours under load without a problem you have eliminated a lot 
of potential problems like heat, vapor lock and fuel supply, Your ignition 
system could be suspect (low or high voltage). Also, quality of gas entering 
the carb can change over time.  Intermittent problems like what you are 
describing sometimes require a great deal of discipline to find. Be sure to 
make only one change at a time to be sure you don't compound the problem and 
make it difficult to determine what you did that changed the symptom. Sometimes 
another set of eyes can be valuable. Sorry I can't be more specific. 

   

  Skip

   

  P. S. Don't be distracted by dirty looking plugs on these motors after a few 
hours of run time. Unless that plug is fouled and not firing it is not your 
problem.   

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight via 
CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2014 5:34 PM
  To: 'Danny Haughey'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

   

  Think about repowering with a reliable diesel.OK you A4 enthusiasts hit me 
hard.but if he likes the feel of sail his Viking and I know that feel is good, 
just might be worth a new engine

   

  Dwight Veinot

  C&C 35MKII, Alianna

  Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

   


--

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
  Sent: August 13, 2014 12:33 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

   

  Alright, the saga continues.

  We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, 
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to 
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a 
little harder than I normally do after having read 

Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Russ, not to worry.  I'm working the issue here, on Moyer forums and with a 
couple of fellow Viking owners.  Sending all the same info and.  You may notice 
a cut and paste here from the Moyer site and vice versa


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List  
Date: 08/13/2014  8:27 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: "bobmor99 ." ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 
 
Hi guys,

I understand that Moyer's forum is the best resource for all things A4 and I 
sure appreciated it before my diesel swap.

But I sure hope that Danny doesn't mind our input. I want to hear from him, it 
helps to keep my grey cells operating between the grey hairs. :) I believe he 
should post to both and not exclude his C&C friends from this experience. 

In the end, most of want to know what worked to fix it.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:12 PM 13/08/2014, you wrote:
Hi Danny,
This is a long email thread. I've read much of it but scanned over some parts.
A couple of things:
1) The Moyer Marine website is a better source of A4 info and help.
2) My 33-1 came with a newly rebuilt A4 in 2006. It's performed fairly well for 
daysailing. I rarely run the engine for more than ~30 minutes. Somewhat 
recently, after motoring awhile (20 minutes?), the engine hesitated. I have a 
pump-bulb close to the fuel tank. It was somewhat flaccid, as pump-bulbs go, so 
I gave it a few pumps and the engine ran fine thereafter. I'm thinking there's 
some sort of blockage in the fuel tank vent but I've not spent any time looking 
into it.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL___
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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

FYI a friend had random A4 shutdowns. I put a vacuum gauge on the fuel system 
and it would pull a vacuum before quiting . We found leaves and a rag in the 
fuel tank. A new diesel would have quit just as often ;) 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 13, 2014, at 18:58, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Ha...this is a brand new Moyer marine exchange engine.  No way I'm going 
> diesel in this boat...  I can't believe we went this long without that 
> recommendation yet...
> 
> 
> From my Android phone 
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: dwight  
> Date: 08/13/2014 5:34 PM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: 'Danny Haughey' ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: RE: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 
> 
> 
> Think about repowering with a reliable diesel…OK you A4 enthusiasts hit me 
> hard…but if he likes the feel of sail his Viking and I know that feel is 
> good, just might be worth a new engine
>  
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Swapping coasts and Bops

[Ron Kaye via CnC-List]

Martin, 
Thanks for the very helpful information. I am now seriously considering moving 
the Bop to the PNW as an alternative to selling her for a whopping loss - 
(although if someone whispered a reasonable number to me for her the 
convenience of moving electronic funds vs a big old sailboat would be 
tempting).  

Alas she Bop will likely be transported when all is said and done. I will have 
some questions about doing that for you and the list as the day approaches. 

Very interesting to learn about the shallow areas there. We would love to 
cruise in the BC area. We will need to learn about anchoring over a rocky 
bottom. I've never done it. 

Ron

> On Aug 13, 2014, at 12:18 AM, Martin DeYoung  wrote:
> 
> > Out there I would prefer a fixed keel. Do many sailors have swing keel 
> > models in the PNW?
>  
> I'm not in touch with how many centerboard boats there are in the PNW or how 
> it would affect resale value.  Hopefully Lee Youngblood (s/v Simplicity, 1974 
> C&C 35-II, cnc-lister) will add his perspective as he is a PNW broker with 
> C&C experience.  Lee lives aboard his 35 and has sailed/raced on Calypso with 
> us a few times.
>  
> There was a detailed discussion about centerboards here a few weeks back.  
> Based on what I read about C&C centerboard performance I don't believe you 
> would have any significant performance loss in common PNW cruising 
> conditions.  If you plan to go far offshore (Mexico, So Pacific) or seriously 
> race, a deeper keel may show an advantage
>  
> >Are there shallow bays where it would come in handy?
>  
> Yes. For example; Roche Harbor and surrounding bays (San Juan Island), many 
> areas and both marinas around Port Townsend have shallow spots, much of Puget 
> Sound south of Gig Harbor, Liberty Bay (Poulsbo), the Swinomish Slough 
> (between LaConner and Anacortes).  With 12'+ tides many smaller marinas have 
> slips that would favor a centerboard over Calypso's 7"6" draft.
>  
> As you go north to the awesome cruising ground of BC there are places where 
> only a shallow draft boat can enter.  One bay in Desolation Sound has a 
> shallow entrance and must be entered at high tide.  The shallow entrance 
> keeps the sun warmed water in creating a anchorage warm enough to swim.  I 
> would not take Calypso in but I did get a C&C 36 in there by leading in with 
> a dinghy and lead line.
>  
> > Can you approximate the slip fee for a 35-38 in Puget Sound?  We might end 
> > up in or around Edmonds.
>  
> I don't follow the moorage costs outside of Shilshole Bay Marina (kept a boat 
> there since 84) but here is my SWAG: salt water close to Seattle $400 to 
> $500/mo, Edmonds/Everett a little less (check for the wait list in Edmonds), 
> Anacortes +-$350/mo.
>  
> A note on Edmonds.  It is a great location for sailing and a nice little 
> community, but it is in the weather convergence zone.  Closer to Seattle or 
> north of Marysville will average less rainy days per year.  For moorage also 
> check out Anacortes for how close it is to the San Juan Islands.
>  
> Please let me know if you have any difficulty in digging up PNW sailing info.
>  
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
> 
> 
>  
> From: Ron Kaye [mailto:ronkaye...@gmail.com] 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 12:34 PM
> To: Martin DeYoung
> Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Swapping coasts and Bops
>  
> Out there I would prefer a fixed keel. Don't most sailors?  I consider a 
> swing keel to be an East Coast necessity.  Do many sailors have swing keel 
> models in the PNW?  
> As we know, that blade is heavy and takes some effort to manage. It's worth 
> it to be able to traverse so much of the Chesapeake that would be too shallow 
> otherwise. (And to keep the boat in 5' of water). In the PNW I would think 
> we'd just leave it down permanently and it would eventually get stuck like 
> that if we didn't make a point of raising and lowering.  Are there shallow 
> bays where it would come in handy? 
> But you do have a good point and perhaps we will ultimately do exactly that. 
> We will see what kind of offers we get.  However I'm hoping the difference 
> between 6 and (6+x) might be workable (depending on the value of x) if we can 
> end up with a boat that is better suited for that area. Additionally in the 
> equation: Admiral Bop is keen on moving up three feet (or more), and we have 
> friends there who expressed interest in co-owning a sailboat when we get 
> there - which might make that three feet more important as well as 
> affordable. And because we will be downsizing the house, upsizing the Bop has 
> a certain balance aspect in the larger sense -which almost makes sense.
> Can you approximate the slip fee for a 35-38 in Puget Sound?  We might end up 
> in or around Edmonds. 
>  
> Ron
> 
> On Aug 12, 2014, at 1:56 PM, Martin DeYoung  wrote:
> 
> Ron and Lisa,
>  
> First off it is rarely clammy in winter, just cold and wet.  In summer we do 
> get a few days