Re: Stus-List C&C ball caps

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I'm currently in 12.4 feet of ca-ca.


Rick  wrote:

If you’re having senior moments at age 50 you might be in deep ca-ca. For the 
rest of us it seems to happen about age 64.




___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List halyard stoppers

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Brad,

Perception had Schaffer stoppers on her when we got her (85 C&C 33-II K/CB). 
They were chewing the new running rigging very quickly - at the recommendation 
of our sailmaker we replaced them with lewmars.

The lewmars need to be sized right for your lines, they have smaller ranges 
than most stoppers, but work well, and release easily under load.

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 21, 2015, at 9:42 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Replacing the original 7/16 halyards on our 1985 C&C 33 MKII. Got a GOOD 
> price on some 3/8 Warpspeed from W.M. Does anyone know what brand/size of 
> halyard clutches  C&C used in '85? There is a set of double Schaefer clutches 
> mounted outboard of the original triples, either side of the companionway, 
> pictures I have aren't good enough to identify them and the boat is 3 hrs 
> from here.
> Thanks
> Brad
> Sarnia ON
> 1985 C&C 33 "Pulse"
> 
> Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
> from my iPad!
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List halyard stoppers

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Brad,

The clutches on my boat (33mkII 1987) are Easylock i think, the model that kind 
of look like a lewmar, with long levers of different colours... they do work 
with a 3/8 Line but tend to slip a little with main and jib halyards. it might 
be wear, but this up grade is on the list. i will go with a Spinlock XTS 
tripple to replace one of the bank. A Rigger told me that spinlocks were a bit 
more rough on lines but had more bite than the Lewmar.

Bruno
Becassine
33mkII
new richmond, Qc


Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-03-22 à 07:13, Paul Fountain via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Brad,
> 
> Perception had Schaffer stoppers on her when we got her (85 C&C 33-II K/CB). 
> They were chewing the new running rigging very quickly - at the 
> recommendation of our sailmaker we replaced them with lewmars.
> 
> The lewmars need to be sized right for your lines, they have smaller ranges 
> than most stoppers, but work well, and release easily under load.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 21, 2015, at 9:42 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Replacing the original 7/16 halyards on our 1985 C&C 33 MKII. Got a GOOD 
>> price on some 3/8 Warpspeed from W.M. Does anyone know what brand/size of 
>> halyard clutches  C&C used in '85? There is a set of double Schaefer 
>> clutches mounted outboard of the original triples, either side of the 
>> companionway, pictures I have aren't good enough to identify them and the 
>> boat is 3 hrs from here.
>> Thanks
>> Brad
>> Sarnia ON
>> 1985 C&C 33 "Pulse"
>> 
>> Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
>> from my iPad!
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List stus-list halyard stoppers

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

after exchanging photos with another lister, it appears that my clutches are 
spinlok XA's and should handle the 3/8 line adequately. It looks like there are 
parts available should I need to rebuild.
This list is INVALUABLE for us new C&C owners, thank you all.
Brad 
1985 C&C 33 "Pulse"
Sarnia, ON
 

Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
from my iPad!
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List halyard stoppers

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Bruno, take a look at the lewmar D2 clutches before you make a final
decision.  They have a unique series of plates which the rope runs through
perpendicular.  The clutch handle tilts the plates to pinch the rope.

Something to consider.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mar 22, 2015 10:48 AM, "Bruno Lachance via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Brad,
>
> The clutches on my boat (33mkII 1987) are Easylock i think, the model that
> kind of look like a lewmar, with long levers of different colours... they
> do work with a 3/8 Line but tend to slip a little with main and jib
> halyards. it might be wear, but this up grade is on the list. i will go
> with a Spinlock XTS tripple to replace one of the bank. A Rigger told me
> that spinlocks were a bit more rough on lines but had more bite than the
> Lewmar.
>
> Bruno
> Becassine
> 33mkII
> new richmond, Qc
>
>
> Envoyé de mon iPad
>
> > Le 2015-03-22 à 07:13, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
> a écrit :
> >
> > Brad,
> >
> > Perception had Schaffer stoppers on her when we got her (85 C&C 33-II
> K/CB). They were chewing the new running rigging very quickly - at the
> recommendation of our sailmaker we replaced them with lewmars.
> >
> > The lewmars need to be sized right for your lines, they have smaller
> ranges than most stoppers, but work well, and release easily under load.
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> >> On Mar 21, 2015, at 9:42 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Replacing the original 7/16 halyards on our 1985 C&C 33 MKII. Got a
> GOOD price on some 3/8 Warpspeed from W.M. Does anyone know what brand/size
> of halyard clutches  C&C used in '85? There is a set of double Schaefer
> clutches mounted outboard of the original triples, either side of the
> companionway, pictures I have aren't good enough to identify them and the
> boat is 3 hrs from here.
> >> Thanks
> >> Brad
> >> Sarnia ON
> >> 1985 C&C 33 "Pulse"
> >>
> >> Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
> >> from my iPad!
> >
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List halyard stoppers

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I believe most of the stoppers installed in that vintage were Easy Locks. They 
are OK. Years of sunshine have likely weakened the levers. That mixed with the 
irritating operational requirement of never stopping a static line (I has to be 
moving through the stopper as its closing or it jams so hard you sometimes 
break the aging levers while trying to open it) I would seriously recommend 
changing out to newer technology. 
It's been on my to do list for 5 years. 3 broken levers later i'm running out 
of spares so I better do this soon. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 21, 2015, at 8:42 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Replacing the original 7/16 halyards on our 1985 C&C 33 MKII. Got a GOOD 
> price on some 3/8 Warpspeed from W.M. Does anyone know what brand/size of 
> halyard clutches  C&C used in '85? There is a set of double Schaefer clutches 
> mounted outboard of the original triples, either side of the companionway, 
> pictures I have aren't good enough to identify them and the boat is 3 hrs 
> from here.
> Thanks
> Brad
> Sarnia ON
> 1985 C&C 33 "Pulse"
> 
> Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
> from my iPad!
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List PHRF Adjustments for Spin and JAM in a single fleet

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

> consensus opinion on how to adjust PHRF ratings to allow spin 
> and JAM boats to compete in a single (small) fleet

Typical it works poorly. On moderately heavy days were most boats can
get up towards hull speed and sail deep downwind the JAM boats will be
about as fast as the spin boats but will carry a +12 to +23 advantage.

On very light days if the scoring is time-on-time while everyone is gently
drifting downwind the boats with a +24 will be accumulating too much
adjusted time.

In moderate wind conditions the spin boats will sail to their ratings, but
so will the JAM boats. Might be fair for those days.

>The race on Saturday is a longish (10-12NM) pursuit race that starts and 
> finishes in the harbor and has north, south, east, and west legs.

For PHRF Lake Ontario the ratings are based on windward - leeward courses
with 1 mile legs in about 4 - 18 kts of wind. The ratings were never designed
for long distance races.

I raced last summer in a mixed FS - NFS fleet. Well, hard to call it racing and
I am not sure about the summer part either. Fleet spread was 91, and went
from a Kirby 30 and J/80 to a Sprinta Sport. I managed to see first hand all
the ways mixed fleets and wide PHRF spreads do not work.

At least it does reduce the pile ups at the marks you get in a OD fleet.


Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
Brass via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2015 9:17 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List PHRF Adjustments for Spin and JAM in a single fleet 
 
OK. I know this has been discussed before. But I just spent almost two hours 
in the mail archives rereading a whole bunch of previous messages, trying to 
come up with a consensus opinion on how to adjust PHRF ratings to allow spin 
and JAM boats to compete in a single (small) fleet. 
 
What I firmly believe I have discovered is that, sort of like economists and 
politicians, if you laid all the opinions end to end they would never reach 
a conclusion. 
 
I know that a number of PHRF organizations give a boat both a Spin and a 
non-spin rating. And I understand that local some local organizations with 
small fleets running in a single event will adjust the ratings of boats in 
non-spin to promote more even competition. From what I can see, the credit 
for running non-spin seems to be in the range of 10-18 seconds, or 10-15% of 
the boat's PHRF. 
 
What I'm trying to do is plan for a "C&C Cup" to be run as part of a local 
charity regatta called Pirates on the Pungo, in Belhaven, NC on the weekend 
of May 15-17. More on that later.
  
The race on Saturday is a longish (10-12NM) pursuit race that starts and 
finishes in the harbor and has north, south, east, and west legs. I know of 
about 15 C&Cs within a day's travel of Belhaven, so I'm guessing the fleet 
would include 8-10 boats, with some cruisers and 1 or 2 real racers. To 
promote camaraderie and competition, and also so I don't have to pony up too 
much for the prizes (the winner will get a half hull of his own boat made by 
Andrew Burton), we would have a single fleet. 
 
So help me here: 
 
How does your local PHRF or sailing club adjust the ratings between Spin and 
JAM to allow both types of boats in a single fleet? And how equitable are 
the results based on your experience? 
 
Rick Brass 
Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2 
la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 
Washington, NC 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List halyard stoppers

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

You can help worn clutches live longer if you make it a habit to put the tail 
around the winch and take up tension before releasing the clutch lever, 
especially on the main and jib halyards which are loaded up. A friend of mine 
has undersized clutches and insists this procedure be followed all the time. 
It's worked for him for 25 years. I prefer my bigger clutches. 

BTW, ours are 1989, Spinlock XTS and rated for line size 5/16 to 9/16". I think 
the Lewmar D2 Rope Clutch is a better product, a little less money, easier on 
the lines, and more holding power. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List"  
To: "Bradley Lumgair" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 12:21:44 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List halyard stoppers 

I believe most of the stoppers installed in that vintage were Easy Locks. They 
are OK. Years of sunshine have likely weakened the levers. That mixed with the 
irritating operational requirement of never stopping a static line (I has to be 
moving through the stopper as its closing or it jams so hard you sometimes 
break the aging levers while trying to open it) I would seriously recommend 
changing out to newer technology. 
It's been on my to do list for 5 years. 3 broken levers later i'm running out 
of spares so I better do this soon. 

Brent Driedger 
27-5 
Lake Winnipeg. 


Sent from my iPhone 

> On Mar 21, 2015, at 8:42 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
>  wrote: 
> 
> Replacing the original 7/16 halyards on our 1985 C&C 33 MKII. Got a GOOD 
> price on some 3/8 Warpspeed from W.M. Does anyone know what brand/size of 
> halyard clutches C&C used in '85? There is a set of double Schaefer clutches 
> mounted outboard of the original triples, either side of the companionway, 
> pictures I have aren't good enough to identify them and the boat is 3 hrs 
> from here. 
> Thanks 
> Brad 
> Sarnia ON 
> 1985 C&C 33 "Pulse" 
> 
> Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
> from my iPad! 
> 
> ___ 
> 
> Email address: 
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at: 
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 

___ 

Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List PHRF Adjustments for Spin and JAM in a single fleet

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Very good summary of things I saw too when racing against different style boats 
in the same fleet. 

Instead of the fleet placings, we found we could measure our performance best 
by comparing us against similar C&Cs. I lost interest in racing when similar 
boats stopped competing and we had to race against a Viper 640, a Pearson 
Triton 28 and a J-24 and a J-28 all in the same fleet. Apples and oranges. I 
see why one design is so popular and so competitive. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Michael Brown via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 12:42:12 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Adjustments for Spin and JAM in a single fleet 

> consensus opinion on how to adjust PHRF ratings to allow spin 
> and JAM boats to compete in a single (small) fleet 

Typical it works poorly. On moderately heavy days were most boats can 
get up towards hull speed and sail deep downwind the JAM boats will be 
about as fast as the spin boats but will carry a +12 to +23 advantage. 

On very light days if the scoring is time-on-time while everyone is gently 
drifting downwind the boats with a +24 will be accumulating too much 
adjusted time. 

In moderate wind conditions the spin boats will sail to their ratings, but 
so will the JAM boats. Might be fair for those days. 

>The race on Saturday is a longish (10-12NM) pursuit race that starts and 
> finishes in the harbor and has north, south, east, and west legs. 

For PHRF Lake Ontario the ratings are based on windward - leeward courses 
with 1 mile legs in about 4 - 18 kts of wind. The ratings were never designed 
for long distance races. 

I raced last summer in a mixed FS - NFS fleet. Well, hard to call it racing and 
I am not sure about the summer part either. Fleet spread was 91, and went 
from a Kirby 30 and J/80 to a Sprinta Sport. I managed to see first hand all 
the ways mixed fleets and wide PHRF spreads do not work. 

At least it does reduce the pile ups at the marks you get in a OD fleet. 


Michael Brown 
Windburn 
C&C 30-1 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
Brass via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2015 9:17 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List PHRF Adjustments for Spin and JAM in a single fleet 

OK. I know this has been discussed before. But I just spent almost two hours 
in the mail archives rereading a whole bunch of previous messages, trying to 
come up with a consensus opinion on how to adjust PHRF ratings to allow spin 
and JAM boats to compete in a single (small) fleet. 

What I firmly believe I have discovered is that, sort of like economists and 
politicians, if you laid all the opinions end to end they would never reach 
a conclusion. 

I know that a number of PHRF organizations give a boat both a Spin and a 
non-spin rating. And I understand that local some local organizations with 
small fleets running in a single event will adjust the ratings of boats in 
non-spin to promote more even competition. From what I can see, the credit 
for running non-spin seems to be in the range of 10-18 seconds, or 10-15% of 
the boat's PHRF. 

What I'm trying to do is plan for a "C&C Cup" to be run as part of a local 
charity regatta called Pirates on the Pungo, in Belhaven, NC on the weekend 
of May 15-17. More on that later. 

The race on Saturday is a longish (10-12NM) pursuit race that starts and 
finishes in the harbor and has north, south, east, and west legs. I know of 
about 15 C&Cs within a day's travel of Belhaven, so I'm guessing the fleet 
would include 8-10 boats, with some cruisers and 1 or 2 real racers. To 
promote camaraderie and competition, and also so I don't have to pony up too 
much for the prizes (the winner will get a half hull of his own boat made by 
Andrew Burton), we would have a single fleet. 

So help me here: 

How does your local PHRF or sailing club adjust the ratings between Spin and 
JAM to allow both types of boats in a single fleet? And how equitable are 
the results based on your experience? 

Rick Brass 
Imzadi C&C 38 mk 2 
la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 
Washington, NC 




___ 

Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List halyard stoppers

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

BTW, I have a double Lewmar clutch rated for 12mm line in the cellar somewhere. 
 I used it for a year on Mojito before swapping lines and clutch to the 10mm 
size.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT


> On Mar 22, 2015, at 12:21 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I believe most of the stoppers installed in that vintage were Easy Locks. 
> They are OK. Years of sunshine have likely weakened the levers. That mixed 
> with the irritating operational requirement of never stopping a static line 
> (I has to be moving through the stopper as its closing or it jams so hard you 
> sometimes break the aging levers while trying to open it) I would seriously 
> recommend changing out to newer technology. 
> It's been on my to do list for 5 years. 3 broken levers later i'm running out 
> of spares so I better do this soon. 
> 
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Mar 21, 2015, at 8:42 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Replacing the original 7/16 halyards on our 1985 C&C 33 MKII. Got a GOOD 
>> price on some 3/8 Warpspeed from W.M. Does anyone know what brand/size of 
>> halyard clutches  C&C used in '85? There is a set of double Schaefer 
>> clutches mounted outboard of the original triples, either side of the 
>> companionway, pictures I have aren't good enough to identify them and the 
>> boat is 3 hrs from here.
>> Thanks
>> Brad
>> Sarnia ON
>> 1985 C&C 33 "Pulse"
>> 
>> Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
>> from my iPad!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List halyard stoppers

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I agree Chuck, I got 8 Lewmar D2's on Alianna and they have worked
flawlessly and did not damage my lines in any noticeable way for the past 8
years...I highly recommend these

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Sun, Mar 22, 2015 at 2:45 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

> You can help worn clutches live longer if you make it a habit to put the
> tail around the winch and take up tension before releasing the clutch
> lever, especially on the main and jib halyards which are loaded up.A
> friend of mine has undersized clutches and insists this procedure be
> followed all the time.   It's worked for him for 25 years.  I prefer my
> bigger clutches.
>
> BTW, ours are 1989, Spinlock XTS and rated for line size 5/16 to 9/16".
> I think the Lewmar D2 Rope Clutch is a better product, a little less money,
> easier on the lines, and more holding power.
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"Bradley Lumgair" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent: *Sunday, March 22, 2015 12:21:44 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List halyard stoppers
>
> I believe most of the stoppers installed in that vintage were Easy Locks.
> They are OK. Years of sunshine have likely weakened the levers. That mixed
> with the irritating operational requirement of never stopping a static line
> (I has to be moving through the stopper as its closing or it jams so hard
> you sometimes break the aging levers while trying to open it) I would
> seriously recommend changing out to newer technology.
> It's been on my to do list for 5 years. 3 broken levers later i'm running
> out of spares so I better do this soon.
>
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Mar 21, 2015, at 8:42 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Replacing the original 7/16 halyards on our 1985 C&C 33 MKII. Got a GOOD
> price on some 3/8 Warpspeed from W.M. Does anyone know what brand/size of
> halyard clutches  C&C used in '85? There is a set of double Schaefer
> clutches mounted outboard of the original triples, either side of the
> companionway, pictures I have aren't good enough to identify them and the
> boat is 3 hrs from here.
> > Thanks
> > Brad
> > Sarnia ON
> > 1985 C&C 33 "Pulse"
> >
> > Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
> > from my iPad!
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List halyard stoppers

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Big ditto on Lewmars. I have had two Lewmar triples on Touché for nearly 15 
years. No slippage. No damage to the lines. 

IMHO Lewmar clutches are the BEST!

Dennis C. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 22, 2015, at 6:13 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Brad,
> 
> Perception had Schaffer stoppers on her when we got her (85 C&C 33-II K/CB). 
> They were chewing the new running rigging very quickly - at the 
> recommendation of our sailmaker we replaced them with lewmars.
> 
> The lewmars need to be sized right for your lines, they have smaller ranges 
> than most stoppers, but work well, and release easily under load.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 21, 2015, at 9:42 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Replacing the original 7/16 halyards on our 1985 C&C 33 MKII. Got a GOOD 
>> price on some 3/8 Warpspeed from W.M. Does anyone know what brand/size of 
>> halyard clutches  C&C used in '85? There is a set of double Schaefer 
>> clutches mounted outboard of the original triples, either side of the 
>> companionway, pictures I have aren't good enough to identify them and the 
>> boat is 3 hrs from here.
>> Thanks
>> Brad
>> Sarnia ON
>> 1985 C&C 33 "Pulse"
>> 
>> Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
>> from my iPad!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List PHRF Adjustments for Spin and JAM in a single fleet

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I’m well aware of the problems of running Spin and Jam boats in the same 
fleets, and the frustrations of PHRF racing in fleets that have a wide range of 
boat types ranging from sport boats like the Viper to boats like the San Juan 
21. Time on Time is a boon to fairness in a fleet race, but I can’t think of a 
way that you could set up fair starts for a pursuit race using time on time. 

 

Since the discussion is turning to these things, perhaps I should clarify the 
reason for my question, and rephrase it.

 

Pirates on the Pungo is an annual charity regatta, held in Belhaven, NC in 
mid-May. (This year it will be May 15-17) Most keelboats compete in a longish 
pursuit race on Saturday, with awards given out on Saturday night at the dinner 
dance, and a second (optional) race on Sunday morning. One designs and dinghies 
compete in windward-leeward races on both days. The pursuit course is typically 
the one I described – about 10 NM with N,S, E, and W legs, starting and ending 
inside the breakwater in the harbor. The keelboats compete for three deep 
prizes in three classes: Spinnaker, PHRF Non-Spinnaker, and Cruising. Cruising 
boats are white sails and not generally raced. Usually there are about 30 
keelboats, with Cruising being the largest class.

 

I plan to conduct a “C&C Rendezvous” within the Pirates on the Pungo regatta. I 
know of about 10 C&Cs within a day’s travel of Belhaven, which allows travel on 
Friday to arrive for the Skipper’s Reception, compete on Saturday, and sail 
home on Sunday. (There are actually 5 C&Cs at the River Rat Yacht Club just 5 
miles away) And another 10 or so are within 2 day’s travel. Using the event as 
a venue makes everything really simple. Someone else provides the RC, committee 
boats, marks, photographer, the Friday evening cocktail party, Saturday 
breakfast, Saturday steak and seafood buffet, Sunday brunch, the band for the 
dance, and beer and soda for the weekend. There is free dockage available in 
Belhaven. And since the regatta is part of the Belhaven Pirate Fest this year 
there is even street music and shore side activities on Saturday for family and 
kids who don’t want to race.

 

All I need to do is arrange a race within a race for the C&C owners to 
stimulate competition and camaraderie, provide a prize (and I think one of 
Andrew Burton’s half hulls of the winner’s own boat is a really nice prize), 
figure out how to determine the winner, and get the word out to C&C owners.

 

Figuring out how to determine who gets the prize is the reason for asking the 
original question. Participants will be competing for the overall prizes in one 
of three classes, in a pursuit race based on PHRF ratings. I’ve been involved 
in regattas where the overall winner got a prize for being first in the “most 
competitive” class, but never thought the methods for determining “most 
competitive” were very equitable. The other alternative I could think of was to 
determine an adjustment to the PHRF ratings of the JAM boats, and then score 
the C&Cs based on their actual time on the course just like you would a Time on 
Distance race.

 

So let me rephrase my question: If I have a fleet of 8 to 10 C&C sailboats 
competing in a single event over the same course at the same time, but in 
different (spin & Jam) classes, what is an equitable way to determine which 
boat is the best performer?

 

All suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 1:58 PM
To: Michael Brown; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Adjustments for Spin and JAM in a single fleet

 

Very good summary of things I saw too when racing against different style boats 
in the same fleet.  

 

Instead of the fleet placings, we found we could measure our performance best 
by comparing us against similar C&Cs.  I lost interest in racing when similar 
boats stopped competing and we had to race against a Viper 640, a Pearson 
Triton 28 and a J-24 and a J-28 all in the same fleet.  Apples and oranges.  I 
see why one design is so popular and so competitive.

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: "Michael Brown via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 12:42:12 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Adjustments for Spin and JAM in a single fleet

 

> consensus opinion on how to adjust PHRF ratings to allow spin 
> and JAM boats to compete in a single (small) fleet

 

Typical it works poorly. On moderately heavy days were most boats can
get up towards hull speed and sail deep downwind the JAM boats will be
about as fast as the spin boats but will carry a +12 to +23 advantage.

 

On very light days if the scoring is time-on-time while everyone is gently
drifting downwind the boats with a +24 wi

Re: Stus-List PHRF Adjustments for Spin and JAM in a single fleet

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

As I said - pick a percentage and wait for the squawking.

In our Herring Island fleet, we use the Annapolis to St. Michaels race as one 
of our long distance races. Depending on club entrants for that race, we can 
have boats in multiple PHRF classes ranging from PHRF A2 through PHRF C/D. 
Plus, we could have someone running in a one design class (J-30, Triton, etc.) 
- and we have two different course lengths, depending on class - they usually 
have about 15 starts.

We use our 15% NS adjustment - the only problem is we cannot use our 7.5% 
cruising chute adjustment, because the PHRF rules don't allow that, they dump 
them into Spin. We have had high finishing boats come from both Spin and NS 
classes (cruising) and from just about every PHRF group. 

This past year, we didn't have any NS boats and everybody was grouped in PHRF 
classes which ran the long course (21 miles), so it was easy. In the past, it 
hasn't been, but more depends on what the wind is doing and where the currents 
are headed than any other single criteria.

There is no perfect answer, so just choose something.

For me, 15% is better than a fixed number of seconds per mile, because of the 
wide range of PHRF's in our fleet. And, because the course has multiple legs in 
different directions, the good reaching boats may come out better or not 
depending on wind. (A Bermuda 40 yawl with a mizzen staysail is a good reacher, 
as is a J-80 if the wind is right, but if the wind is skewed by 20 degrees, 
neither does that well). 

Good Luck.

Gary in St. Michaels - on the 80 for this one.


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List 37+ Bildge pump

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The bildge pump seems to have stopped working, again!  I suspect that it
has to do with some of the older wiring becoming corroded and causing a
higher resistance.   I had this happen before.  I'm planning on replacing
the Rule 500 with a Whale Gulper 320.  I recognize that the capacity is
probably on the low side but compared to zero, 320 is a lot and it beats a
bucket.  The gusher is a single diaphragm pump, can pass debris and has a
rated suction lift of 10'.  So this means I can mount the pump above the
water and have the suction hose run into the deepest and most confined
space of the bildge.  Hopefully getting the pump out of the water will help
prevent corrosion.

Anybody have any thoughts or personal learnings?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Racing w whisker poles

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Chuck;

 

The NC PHRF rule specify penalties for spinnaker poles longer than J. I think 
it is -3 for SPL<105% of J and -6 of SPL>105%.

 

Years ago, when I was racing my 25 mostly in JAM races and doing a lot of RC 
duties for my local club and a couple of charity regattas, my local PHRF 
handicapper told me that there was no restriction on the length of a whisker 
pole used in JAM racing. And the existence of a whisker pole would not change 
the boats PHRF rating.  I can’t find that written down in the information on 
the current NC PHRF website, but it makes logical sense. 

 

No way could you use a whisker pole in place of a spin pole for spin racing - 
not heavy enough, and in any event a pole longer than J would draw a rating 
adjustment.  But using a spin pole limited to J is only a slight improvement 
over using no pole at all in JAM racing. Plus restricting the pole would run 
contrary to the idea that the boat is supposed to be properly equipped and in 
race ready condition.

 

I have always carried both a legal spin pole and a whisker pole on both my 
boats (plus a reaching strut on the 38).

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2015 11:20 AM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Stus-List Racing w whisker poles

 

Ron, Gary, Rick,  

Curious.  Does your RC allow adjustable whisker poles longer than J length to 
be used during a race in your areas?


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

The wiring is certainly suspect at this point in the boat's age.  I prefer
to mount the pump low in the bilge because most of them push water better
than pulling it uphill.  Putting it another way, they blow better than they
suck.   

 

You're still going to have the bilge switch in the bilge, why not locate
them together?  Mine are side-by-side, which makes for shorter wiring runs.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 5:31 PM
To: C&C List
Subject: Stus-List 37+ Bildge pump

 

The bildge pump seems to have stopped working, again!  I suspect that it has
to do with some of the older wiring becoming corroded and causing a higher
resistance.   I had this happen before.  I'm planning on replacing the Rule
500 with a Whale Gulper 320.  I recognize that the capacity is probably on
the low side but compared to zero, 320 is a lot and it beats a bucket.  The
gusher is a single diaphragm pump, can pass debris and has a rated suction
lift of 10'.  So this means I can mount the pump above the water and have
the suction hose run into the deepest and most confined space of the bildge.
Hopefully getting the pump out of the water will help prevent corrosion.

Anybody have any thoughts or personal learnings?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Halyard stoppers-Brent Driedger

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

Hey Brent, 
There must be something else wrong with the plastic in your stopper levers, it 
never gets that hot in Manitoba! Oh wait, I know what it is, overspray from the 
mosquito repellant you need to wear all summer must be breaking down the 
plastic. 
Brad (former Manitobean)
1985 C&C 33 "Pulse"
Sarnia ON 

Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
from my iPad!
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Frozen Barient winch

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

one of my ST winches is frozen. I removed the retaining not but cannot
budge the drum enough to remove the self Tailer.

Suggestions on how to take it apart would be greatly appreciated. I have
removed it and sprayed PB blaster wherever I could.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis.


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 37+ Bildge pump

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I learned the hard way--its the old un-tinned wire.  I wouldn't downgrade the 
pump size!

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Mar 22, 2015, at 5:31 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The bildge pump seems to have stopped working, again!  I suspect that it has 
> to do with some of the older wiring becoming corroded and causing a higher 
> resistance.   I had this happen before.  I'm planning on replacing the Rule 
> 500 with a Whale Gulper 320.  I recognize that the capacity is probably on 
> the low side but compared to zero, 320 is a lot and it beats a bucket.  The 
> gusher is a single diaphragm pump, can pass debris and has a rated suction 
> lift of 10'.  So this means I can mount the pump above the water and have the 
> suction hose run into the deepest and most confined space of the bildge.  
> Hopefully getting the pump out of the water will help prevent corrosion.
> 
> Anybody have any thoughts or personal learnings?
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Frozen Barient winch

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

If it is frozen from the interaction of SS and aluminum, applying heat (I use a 
heat gun) and giving it a sharp rap with a soft mallet or 2x4 will often loosen 
the bind enough to let the PB Blaster in to work.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 3:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Frozen Barient winch

one of my ST winches is frozen. I removed the retaining not but cannot budge 
the drum enough to remove the self Tailer.

Suggestions on how to take it apart would be greatly appreciated. I have 
removed it and sprayed PB blaster wherever I could.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis.


--
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump

[robert via CnC-List]

Jake:
Have the same arrangement as you havebilge pump and switch side by 
side at the lowest possible point in the bilgeworks fineand logical!


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-03-22 6:50 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:


Josh,

The wiring is certainly suspect at this point in the boat’s age.  I 
prefer to mount the pump low in the bilge because most of them push 
water better than pulling it uphill. Putting it another way, they blow 
better than they suck…


You’re still going to have the bilge switch in the bilge, why not 
locate them together?  Mine are side-by-side, which makes for shorter 
wiring runs.


Jake

*Jake Brodersen*

*/“Midnight Mistress”/*

*C&C 35 Mk-III*

*Hampton VA*

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Josh Muckley via CnC-List

*Sent:* Sunday, March 22, 2015 5:31 PM
*To:* C&C List
*Subject:* Stus-List 37+ Bildge pump

The bildge pump seems to have stopped working, again!  I suspect that 
it has to do with some of the older wiring becoming corroded and 
causing a higher resistance.   I had this happen before.  I'm planning 
on replacing the Rule 500 with a Whale Gulper 320.  I recognize that 
the capacity is probably on the low side but compared to zero, 320 is 
a lot and it beats a bucket.  The gusher is a single diaphragm pump, 
can pass debris and has a rated suction lift of 10'.  So this means I 
can mount the pump above the water and have the suction hose run into 
the deepest and most confined space of the bildge.  Hopefully getting 
the pump out of the water will help prevent corrosion.


Anybody have any thoughts or personal learnings?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List halyard stoppers

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

You Guys have some strong comments about the Lewmar D2. I was skeptical because 
of one comment i had from a rigger that i respect a lot, even if he does not 
have a C&C, but a first 42 is a pretty nice boat too. He was a Lewmar winch fan 
but a Spinlock clutches lover saying there is no point to be easier on the rope 
if it does not hold it! My own expérience is good with both brands. 

but it seems unanimous and i think i will go with the lewmar D2. should be a 
nice upgrade over the easylock.

Thanks for the comments.

Bruno
Becassine, 33mkII
New richmond, Qc.

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-03-22 à 12:09, Josh Muckley  a écrit :
> 
> Bruno, take a look at the lewmar D2 clutches before you make a final 
> decision.  They have a unique series of plates which the rope runs through 
> perpendicular.  The clutch handle tilts the plates to pinch the rope.
> 
> Something to consider.
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Mar 22, 2015 10:48 AM, "Bruno Lachance via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> Brad,
>> 
>> The clutches on my boat (33mkII 1987) are Easylock i think, the model that 
>> kind of look like a lewmar, with long levers of different colours... they do 
>> work with a 3/8 Line but tend to slip a little with main and jib halyards. 
>> it might be wear, but this up grade is on the list. i will go with a 
>> Spinlock XTS tripple to replace one of the bank. A Rigger told me that 
>> spinlocks were a bit more rough on lines but had more bite than the Lewmar.
>> 
>> Bruno
>> Becassine
>> 33mkII
>> new richmond, Qc
>> 
>> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Regardless of what pump you choose  rewire.  You don’t want stray current 
corrosion on your boat.

From: robert via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 4:33 PM
To: Jake Brodersen ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump

Jake:
Have the same arrangement as you havebilge pump and switch side by side at 
the lowest possible point in the bilgeworks fineand logical!

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2015-03-22 6:50 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:

  Josh,

   

  The wiring is certainly suspect at this point in the boat’s age.  I prefer to 
mount the pump low in the bilge because most of them push water better than 
pulling it uphill.  Putting it another way, they blow better than they suck…   

   

  You’re still going to have the bilge switch in the bilge, why not locate them 
together?  Mine are side-by-side, which makes for shorter wiring runs.

   

  Jake

   

  Jake Brodersen

  “Midnight Mistress”

  C&C 35 Mk-III

  Hampton VA

   

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
Muckley via CnC-List
  Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 5:31 PM
  To: C&C List
  Subject: Stus-List 37+ Bildge pump

   

  The bildge pump seems to have stopped working, again!  I suspect that it has 
to do with some of the older wiring becoming corroded and causing a higher 
resistance.   I had this happen before.  I'm planning on replacing the Rule 500 
with a Whale Gulper 320.  I recognize that the capacity is probably on the low 
side but compared to zero, 320 is a lot and it beats a bucket.  The gusher is a 
single diaphragm pump, can pass debris and has a rated suction lift of 10'.  So 
this means I can mount the pump above the water and have the suction hose run 
into the deepest and most confined space of the bildge.  Hopefully getting the 
pump out of the water will help prevent corrosion.

  Anybody have any thoughts or personal learnings?

  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C&C 37+
  Solomons, MD


   

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com






___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Frozen Barient winch

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

The big frickin’ hammer (BFH) approach may be the best.  A couple of good 
whacks should set it free.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 6:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Frozen Barient winch

 

one of my ST winches is frozen. I removed the retaining not but cannot budge 
the drum enough to remove the self Tailer. 

 

Suggestions on how to take it apart would be greatly appreciated. I have 
removed it and sprayed PB blaster wherever I could.

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis. 



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Sam,

 

The integral switches are “interesting”.  Most of them spin the pump impeller 
at regular intervals.  If they encounter resistance, they continue to run the 
pump until less resistance is encountered.  There is nothing wrong with this 
approach, unless you can hear the pump from your bunk.  I prefer pumps to be 
actuated by a switch than senses a need for the pump to run.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com [mailto:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 7:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump

 

‎What about those solid state switches that are integral with the pump.

Anyone have any experience with these?





I've got a Whale pump like this, but haven't got around to installing it yet. 

 

sam :-)

C&C 26 Liquorice

Ghost Lake Alberta 

 


From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 3:51 PM

To: 'Josh Muckley'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Reply To: Jake Brodersen

Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump

 

Josh,

 

The wiring is certainly suspect at this point in the boat’s age.  I prefer to 
mount the pump low in the bilge because most of them push water better than 
pulling it uphill.  Putting it another way, they blow better than they suck…   

 

You’re still going to have the bilge switch in the bilge, why not locate them 
together?  Mine are side-by-side, which makes for shorter wiring runs.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 5:31 PM
To: C&C List
Subject: Stus-List 37+ Bildge pump

 

The bildge pump seems to have stopped working, again!  I suspect that it has to 
do with some of the older wiring becoming corroded and causing a higher 
resistance.   I had this happen before.  I'm planning on replacing the Rule 500 
with a Whale Gulper 320.  I recognize that the capacity is probably on the low 
side but compared to zero, 320 is a lot and it beats a bucket.  The gusher is a 
single diaphragm pump, can pass debris and has a rated suction lift of 10'.  So 
this means I can mount the pump above the water and have the suction hose run 
into the deepest and most confined space of the bildge.  Hopefully getting the 
pump out of the water will help prevent corrosion.

Anybody have any thoughts or personal learnings?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Halyard stoppers-Brent Driedger

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

That's awesome Brad! Actually you're  not far off. I deny letting crew wear 
anything more than standard repellant. The Bens 100 and oily Muskol have enough 
deet in them to destroy any plastic it touches!!  

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 22, 2015, at 5:06 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey Brent, 
> There must be something else wrong with the plastic in your stopper levers, 
> it never gets that hot in Manitoba! Oh wait, I know what it is, overspray 
> from the mosquito repellant you need to wear all summer must be breaking down 
> the plastic. 
> Brad (former Manitobean)
> 1985 C&C 33 "Pulse"
> Sarnia ON 
> 
> Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
> from my iPad!
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump

[David Blair via CnC-List]

I find that since there is a lift of a few feet to the discharge level the 
integral switch causes the pump to spend its time (and my electrical energy) 
pumping the same litre or so of water up the discharge hose, waiting for it to 
trickle back, repumping it again, and so on. Inserting a backflow preventer 
slows the process somewhat but not entirely. Other than plumbing the discharge 
into the galley drain so the outflow is minimized I am not sure how to stop the 
constant recycling. The integral switch doesn’t seem to have any option for 
adjustment and I am don’t see how a separate switch would be any different 
unless it was placed  higher than the pump. My boat (34+) has a small 
collection area – maybe a litre of water in the bilge.  The only source of 
outside water is rain down the mast, so this is a periodic problem.   Any 
solutions or suggestions?

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake 
Brodersen via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 6:27 PM
To: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump

 

Sam,

 

The integral switches are “interesting”.  Most of them spin the pump impeller 
at regular intervals.  If they encounter resistance, they continue to run the 
pump until less resistance is encountered.  There is nothing wrong with this 
approach, unless you can hear the pump from your bunk.  I prefer pumps to be 
actuated by a switch than senses a need for the pump to run.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com [mailto:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 7:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump

 

‎What about those solid state switches that are integral with the pump.

Anyone have any experience with these?

 

I've got a Whale pump like this, but haven't got around to installing it yet. 

 

sam :-)

C&C 26 Liquorice

Ghost Lake Alberta 

 


From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 3:51 PM

To: 'Josh Muckley'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Reply To: Jake Brodersen

Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump

 

Josh,

 

The wiring is certainly suspect at this point in the boat’s age.  I prefer to 
mount the pump low in the bilge because most of them push water better than 
pulling it uphill.  Putting it another way, they blow better than they suck…   

 

You’re still going to have the bilge switch in the bilge, why not locate them 
together?  Mine are side-by-side, which makes for shorter wiring runs.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 5:31 PM
To: C&C List
Subject: Stus-List 37+ Bildge pump

 

The bildge pump seems to have stopped working, again!  I suspect that it has to 
do with some of the older wiring becoming corroded and causing a higher 
resistance.   I had this happen before.  I'm planning on replacing the Rule 500 
with a Whale Gulper 320.  I recognize that the capacity is probably on the low 
side but compared to zero, 320 is a lot and it beats a bucket.  The gusher is a 
single diaphragm pump, can pass debris and has a rated suction lift of 10'.  So 
this means I can mount the pump above the water and have the suction hose run 
into the deepest and most confined space of the bildge.  Hopefully getting the 
pump out of the water will help prevent corrosion.

Anybody have any thoughts or personal learnings?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com