Re: Stus-List bedding of windows

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

The same tape is also available at Hamilton Marine, and possibly 
Defender. The Brand name is Bed-It. Not the same as similar looking 
butyl tape found in autoparts or home improvement stores.




Bill Bina

On 5/26/2015 11:55 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

if you plan to use butyl tape, I would strongly recommend trying Maine
Sail’s product. I think he ships it free in the US. In Canada, the cost
of shipping is somewhat prohibitive (if I recall, the s&h would be more
then the tape itself). But it is possible to make a bigger order and share.
I got his product and I am happy. Of course, ymmv.
Marek
*From:* Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Tuesday, May 26, 2015 7:25 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Rick Rohwer 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List bedding of windows
After using _Butyl tape_ for the first time on my dodger window install,
I follow the recommendation of so many folks I met in Canada last summer
and would encourage you to try this product for hatches windows or any
of the deck sealant issue you might have.  The savings in clean up alone
is immense and I think it makes for a much more dependable seal.  As for
the life of the product, I am only onto it about 2 weeks, but everyone I
met last summer were really hyped up about it.  Marine stores have it
(West Marine will order it), but ebay has various colors and thicknesses
for mucho cheaper.  I made quite an investment in my 20 foot roll,
Rick Rohwer
C&C 37+ Paikea
Poulsbo, WA  (until manana and then only the wind and God knows for sure)

On May 26, 2015, at 7:06 AM, robert via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Adam:

We installed new cabin windows about 6 years ago..it's not rocket
science but it was labor intensive.  I am assuming your windows are
flush with the side of the cabin top with no frames and/or screws or
other fastenersthat the way they are on the 32's .  Our windows
leaked and the only sure way to stop it was to replace them.

Some time back, I posted on this list, the step by step process we
used however it is not on my new laptop ..I will check to see if
it is still on my old laptop and send it to you.

Where is your boat now?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-05-25 2:45 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote:

Jim

Sorry about the reply on the last thread I could hardly follow
the replys and I know better.   The ports are as you described sealed
into a moulded  recess on the cabin top.   I think actually from your
description now I understand how they will come out.

I am doing a complete refit of the boat so I will add it to the list
of projects. Although the refit is mostly done.

Mike, we bought Silver Tassie last fall.  No comments please on
her condition.  :)

Adam



Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates...

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Dave, 

 

Maybe they are too busy to be bothered right now, B/C it appears they do
have them,

 

http://southshoreyachts.com/product-category/cc-parts/page/3/

 

 

Regards,

 

Bill Coleman

CC 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:12 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates...

 

Tried them.   Want to bolt base to toerail and not the deck.   Less holes
and all that.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

Date: Wed, 20 May 2015 14:06:20 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: joel.aron...@gmail.com

South Shore Yachts in Toronto?

 

On Wed, May 20, 2015 at 2:02 PM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

Anybody know a source for stanchion legs for our toerails?

Thanks in  advance.


David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates...

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

On my LF38, I found that making more substantial backing plates (under the 
deck) had a pronounced impact on the rigidity of the stanchions.  The original 
backing plates were only 1" x 2" x 1/8" thick aluminum.  I used 1/4" thick 
aluminum plates (roughly 3-1/2" x 7") when I reinforced mine.  I didn't change 
the holes or the stanchion bases--mine are the type that also bolts thru the 
teak toe rail.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On May 27, 2015, at 8:35 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
>  
> Maybe they are too busy to be bothered right now, B/C it appears they do have 
> them,
>  
> http://southshoreyachts.com/product-category/cc-parts/page/3/
>  
>  
> Regards,
>  
> Bill Coleman
> CC 39
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:12 PM
> To: CNC CNC
> Cc: David
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates...
>  
> Tried them.   Want to bolt base to toerail and not the deck.   Less holes and 
> all that.
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> Date: Wed, 20 May 2015 14:06:20 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates...
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: joel.aron...@gmail.com
> 
> South Shore Yachts in Toronto?
>  
> On Wed, May 20, 2015 at 2:02 PM, David via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> Anybody know a source for stanchion legs for our toerails?
> 
> Thanks in  advance.
> 
> 
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> --
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> 
> ___ Email address: 
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Re: Stus-List bedding of windows-> butyl and more

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi Rick,

I was about to write that McMaster-Carr has a very good selection of butyl tape 
at great prices, but it appears they don’t offer it any more.  I am usually a 
big fan of McMaster-Carr as they usually have most anything, in great quality, 
and reasonable priced.   For example, the little dremel sanding drums cost $3 
for a bag of 25.  I used to pay twice that for just a handful at a box store.

My other go to supplier is Grainger.  They have two nice choices for butyl tape:

[1] 2”W, 1/8”T, 30’L black butyl tape ($16)  
http://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Tape-4PDE9?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/4PDE9_AS01?$smthumb$
 


[2] 3:W, 1/16”T, 20’L grey butyl tape ($24) 
http://www.grainger.com/product/PERMATITE-Butyl-Tape-2EJR3?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/2EJR3_AS01?$smthumb$
 






-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On May 26, 2015, at 9:40 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 26 May 2015 16:25:03 -0700
> From: Rick Rohwer mailto:rickroh...@gmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List bedding of windows
> Message-ID: <3e283131-0a00-4645-a097-8b856296e...@gmail.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> After using Butyl tape for the first time on my dodger window install, I 
> follow the recommendation of so many folks I met in Canada last summer and 
> would encourage you to try this product for hatches windows or any of the 
> deck sealant issue you might have.  The savings in clean up alone is immense 
> and I think it makes for a much more dependable seal.  As for the life of the 
> product, I am only onto it about 2 weeks, but everyone I met last summer were 
> really hyped up about it.  Marine stores have it (West Marine will order it), 
> but ebay has various colors and thicknesses for mucho cheaper.  I made quite 
> an investment in my 20 foot roll,  
> 
> Rick Rohwer
> C&C 37+ Paikea
> Poulsbo, WA  (until manana and then only the wind and God knows for sure) 

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Re: Stus-List bedding of windows-> butyl and more

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 Based upon Bill's recommendation I have purchased a roll of the butyl 
tape...(Thanks for the suggestion!)  I'll report back on my results.

 


Richard

Richard N. Bush 
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

Emailaddress:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, 
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Stus-List Speaking of Gates...

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Related to the stanchion legs for gate thread

Persistence currently does not have a gate and on the stern has double rail 
pushpit.  Two changes I am considering is adding a gate on either side and a 
cutout in the top rail on pushpit .  Adding a gate on the side would require a 
base, a stanchion and lifeline work.  A cutout for stern ladder on pushpit 
would likely require top and bottom fittings to add a vertical support either 
side of ladder opening and a short section of detachable lifeline as a gate on 
the top rail.

Has anybody made these changes and what about a hint at the cost or better ways 
to do this?

Currently swim ladder is a very long climb up the reverse transom and then over 
the double stern pushpit rails.  The side is not so bad as is not a high 
freeboard but for elderly guests or four legged friends is a bit daunting in 
current setup.

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33
Halifax


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Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates...

[David via CnC-List]

Thanks Bill, but I was looking for legs that terminate and secure at the 
toe-rail.   Was trying to avoid more holes in the deck.


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 27 May 2015 08:35:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: colt...@verizon.net















Dave, 

 

Maybe they are too busy to be bothered right now, B/C it appears
they do have them,

 

http://southshoreyachts.com/product-category/cc-parts/page/3/

 

 



Regards,

 

Bill Coleman

CC 39



 





From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:12 PM

To: CNC CNC

Cc: David

Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates...





 



Tried
them.   Want to bolt base to toerail and not the deck.   Less
holes and all that.



David F. Risch

(401) 419-4650 (cell)













Date:
Wed, 20 May 2015 14:06:20 -0400

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates...

From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

CC: joel.aron...@gmail.com



South Shore
Yachts in Toronto?





 



On Wed, May
20, 2015 at 2:02 PM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:





Anybody
know a source for stanchion legs for our toerails?



Thanks in  advance.





David F. Risch

1981 40-2

(401) 419-4650 (cell)







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-- 



Joel 

301 541 8551







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Re: Stus-List Speaking of Gates...

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Hi Mike,

I've seen other Frers 33's that detach the rear end of their lifelines to
create a large "gate" into the cockpit.  That would mean replacing the end
fitting with a pelican hook (and presumably shortening the wire).  The gate
isn't then at maximum beam, but it's not bad, and you can adjust the dock
lines to make it better for boarding and it should mean little modification.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 9:26 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Related to the stanchion legs for gate thread
>
>
>
> Persistence currently does not have a gate and on the stern has double
> rail pushpit.  Two changes I am considering is adding a gate on either side
> and a cutout in the top rail on pushpit .  Adding a gate on the side would
> require a base, a stanchion and lifeline work.  A cutout for stern ladder
> on pushpit would likely require top and bottom fittings to add a vertical
> support either side of ladder opening and a short section of detachable
> lifeline as a gate on the top rail.
>
>
>
> Has anybody made these changes and what about a hint at the cost or better
> ways to do this?
>
>
>
> Currently swim ladder is a very long climb up the reverse transom and then
> over the double stern pushpit rails.  The side is not so bad as is not a
> high freeboard but for elderly guests or four legged friends is a bit
> daunting in current setup.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 33
>
> Halifax
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Speaking of Gates...

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Tim

I have that pelican setup already on Starbord side but only on the upper (and 
we are port side to on the slip).  However as you mentioned the stern is a bit 
far from the dock.

Our issue is that we have a new to us dog who we wish to be at home on the boat 
for a few overnights perhaps.  She is very agile and could leap aboard but the 
lifelines are iin the way.  The pushpit mod OTOH is simply as a swimming ladder 
convenience similar to the arrangement I see on C&C 33-2 and other boats of 
that era

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2015 10:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tim Goodyear
Subject: Re: Stus-List Speaking of Gates...

Hi Mike,

I've seen other Frers 33's that detach the rear end of their lifelines to 
create a large "gate" into the cockpit.  That would mean replacing the end 
fitting with a pelican hook (and presumably shortening the wire).  The gate 
isn't then at maximum beam, but it's not bad, and you can adjust the dock lines 
to make it better for boarding and it should mean little modification.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 9:26 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Related to the stanchion legs for gate thread

Persistence currently does not have a gate and on the stern has double rail 
pushpit.  Two changes I am considering is adding a gate on either side and a 
cutout in the top rail on pushpit .  Adding a gate on the side would require a 
base, a stanchion and lifeline work.  A cutout for stern ladder on pushpit 
would likely require top and bottom fittings to add a vertical support either 
side of ladder opening and a short section of detachable lifeline as a gate on 
the top rail.

Has anybody made these changes and what about a hint at the cost or better ways 
to do this?

Currently swim ladder is a very long climb up the reverse transom and then over 
the double stern pushpit rails.  The side is not so bad as is not a high 
freeboard but for elderly guests or four legged friends is a bit daunting in 
current setup.

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33
Halifax



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Re: Stus-List Speaking of Gates...

[David via CnC-List]

Tim...I have that and want to add gates.   With our (well at least mine anyway) 
boats prominent "hips", getting off at docks or while rafting is a challenge.

May still keep the aft pelican hook to keep flexibility though.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Wed, 27 May 2015 09:56:08 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Speaking of Gates...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: timg...@gmail.com

Hi Mike,
I've seen other Frers 33's that detach the rear end of their lifelines to 
create a large "gate" into the cockpit.  That would mean replacing the end 
fitting with a pelican hook (and presumably shortening the wire).  The gate 
isn't then at maximum beam, but it's not bad, and you can adjust the dock lines 
to make it better for boarding and it should mean little modification.
TimMojitoC&C 35-3Branford, CT
On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 9:26 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
 wrote:








Related to the stanchion legs for gate thread
 
Persistence currently does not have a gate and on the stern has double rail 
pushpit.  Two changes I am considering is adding a gate on either side and a 
cutout
 in the top rail on pushpit .  Adding a gate on the side would require a base, 
a stanchion and lifeline work.  A cutout for stern ladder on pushpit would 
likely require top and bottom fittings to add a vertical support either side of 
ladder opening and a short
 section of detachable lifeline as a gate on the top rail.
 
Has anybody made these changes and what about a hint at the cost or better ways 
to do this?
 
Currently swim ladder is a very long climb up the reverse transom and then over 
the double stern pushpit rails.  The side is not so bad as is not a high 
freeboard
 but for elderly guests or four legged friends is a bit daunting in current 
setup.
 
Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33
Halifax
 
 




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Re: Stus-List Speaking of Gates...

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

That makes sense - our dog makes full use of our gates for boarding (from
the dock) and exiting (to dock / dinghy / water).  She loves the boat.

Tim

On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 10:00 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Tim
>
>
>
> I have that pelican setup already on Starbord side but only on the upper
> (and we are port side to on the slip).  However as you mentioned the stern
> is a bit far from the dock.
>
>
>
> Our issue is that we have a new to us dog who we wish to be at home on the
> boat for a few overnights perhaps.  She is very agile and could leap aboard
> but the lifelines are iin the way.  The pushpit mod OTOH is simply as a
> swimming ladder convenience similar to the arrangement I see on C&C 33-2
> and other boats of that era
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
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Stus-List Whisker pole attachment to genoa

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Speaking of whisker poles, I now have one (Thanks- Chuck!!).  One thing I have 
found is that with the genoa sheets attached, it is hard to find space to 
attach the pole end to the clew ring.  I am thinking of adding a small loop of 
lineto the ring to use for attaching the pole, but am worried about it catching 
on things.  Any suggestions?  Thanks- Dave

> On May 26, 2015, at 9:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Very clever Francois.  I'm copying the 34/36 group.
> 
> From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Jean-Francois J Rivard" 
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 4:49:44 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Pictures of my DIY whisker pole mounts
> 
> Hi, A while back I mentioned I that I made some DIY mounts for my new whisker 
> pole, you can check them out on Flickr here:  
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/ 
> 
> 
> The links for the parts used are on the photo descriptions. 
> 
> 
> Regards, 
> 
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 MK1

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I would have balanced the boat with a reef and my working jib (about 110%). You 
would have more fun. As you know the boat is pretty stiff, but with the rudder 
way out in back, you will slow yourself down with weather helm.

And, you should tighten up the shrouds a little. In that much wind, a couple of 
inches of slack is OK, but 3 to 4 may be too much. If you regularly get 20 knot 
winds, then keep them tighter, if this is rare, then the slop is not a problem 
and I wouldn't be adjusting all the time. The mast doesn't pump in any case.

Gary
#593
  - Original Message - 
  From: Curtis via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Curtis 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 10:25 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 MK1


  I sailed this past Sunday with 18 to 20 with 25 gust. I had just the main 
with no head sail. The man was not reefed.
  I had to fight the helm all after noon. Should I have reefed and raised the 
110% head sail? Would she have better balanced? Also my inner shroud was slack 
like 3" to 4 " on the lee side? is that normal or is it too loose? Thanks for 
your thoughts.




  S/V East Coast Lady,
  1981 C&C 30 MK1 HIN #
  675


  On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 7:51 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:

15 inches sounds a bit much for a 30 but I'd try it for a while before I 
make any change.  If you don't see a lot of weather helm in stiff breezes, 
don't worry about it.


I have 11-12 inches rake on my 35-1 and really like the way it sails.  
Fairly neutral helm.  And that's with a fairly old main.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA



On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 8:17 AM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Howdy listers,



  Last year I had my forestay replaced (for a new roller furler) and it 
ended up being longer than the original by maybe about 4 or 5 inches .  I have 
adjusted the forestay all the way down but I still need plenty of backstay to 
keep it all tight.  So now my mast rake is about 15 inches at the boom.  I 
don't have a ton of weather helm but it's hard to be sure because I replaced 
the old main at the same time that I redid the forestay and the new sail is 
much more efficient.  The extra rake also lowers the boom so I need to use 
topping lift to keep it off the dodger.



  So...how many inches of rake do you have?  And what would you consider 
optimal?  I will have to redo the forestay to fix this but it may be worth it.



  As always, I appreciate all the opinions and advice!



  Cheers,



  Joe Boyle

  30 MK1 'ZIA'

  Annapolis



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  -- 

  Best regards,

  Curtis McDaniel, 


  C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady


  Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
Discover.  -Mark Twain
  http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/




  cpt.b...@gmail.com



   __/) 

  . 






--


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Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 MK1

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Curtis;

 

Basically, it is always easier to balance the boat with both main and
headsail up. The 110 would probably have been about the right headsail for
the conditions you describe.

 

Boats of the generation we have – with large fore triangles, masthead rigs,
and sometimes 170% genoas – were  designed to be powered by the headsail
more than more current designs. I usually just use my headsail on those
occasions when I chose to put up only one for some reason or other.

 

As far as when to reef the main, I can’t really give a firm answer. It
depends on conditions and how the boat is performing. If you are fighting
the helm, if the boat wants to round up and can’t be balanced, if the rail
is in the water, or if the Admiral is giving you dirty looks, it is probably
past time to reef. Hull speed on your boat is probably in the neighborhood
of 6 ½ knots. All the sail area in the world won’t make the boat go
significantly faster. All the excess sail area does is put the rail in the
water and make you work harder than needed.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 10:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Curtis
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 MK1

 

I sailed this past Sunday with 18 to 20 with 25 gust. I had just the main
with no head sail. The man was not reefed.

I had to fight the helm all after noon. Should I have reefed and raised the
110% head sail? Would she have better balanced? Also my inner shroud was
slack like 3" to 4 " on the lee side? is that normal or is it too loose?
Thanks for your thoughts.

 

 

S/V East Coast Lady,

1981 C&C 30 MK1 HIN #

675

 

On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 7:51 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

15 inches sounds a bit much for a 30 but I'd try it for a while before I
make any change.  If you don't see a lot of weather helm in stiff breezes,
don't worry about it.

I have 11-12 inches rake on my 35-1 and really like the way it sails.
Fairly neutral helm.  And that's with a fairly old main.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 8:17 AM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Howdy listers,

 

Last year I had my forestay replaced (for a new roller furler) and it ended
up being longer than the original by maybe about 4 or 5 inches .  I have
adjusted the forestay all the way down but I still need plenty of backstay
to keep it all tight.  So now my mast rake is about 15 inches at the boom.
I don’t have a ton of weather helm but it’s hard to be sure because I
replaced the old main at the same time that I redid the forestay and the new
sail is much more efficient.  The extra rake also lowers the boom so I need
to use topping lift to keep it off the dodger.

 

So…..how many inches of rake do you have?  And what would you consider
optimal?  I will have to redo the forestay to fix this but it may be worth
it.

 

As always, I appreciate all the opinions and advice!

 

Cheers,

 

Joe Boyle

30 MK1 ‘ZIA’

Annapolis

 

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-- 

Best regards,

Curtis McDaniel, 

C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/

 

  cpt.b...@gmail.com

 

 __/) 

. 




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Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 M

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Curtis,

My boat is different but I was in 18-25 knots with elderly guests (4 in 
their mid 70's)  a few weeks back.  To keep it on the easy side we put 2 
reefs on the main and sailed main only while getting out of the marina 
area.. As soon as we got clear water, we deployed the genoa (and furled it 
to about 100%) the boat became more balanced, easy going, and was actually 
heeling less than on main only.. 
On the other hand, when the winds are more moderate main only seems fine 
if a good bit slower.  It seems that going with the main only in strong 
winds just puts her in a pi$$y mood. 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
lake Lanier, GA


I sailed this past Sunday with 18 to 20 with 25 gust. I had just the main
with no head sail. The man was not reefed.
I had to fight the helm all after noon. Should I have reefed and raised 
the
110% head sail? Would she have better balanced? Also my inner shroud was
slack like 3" to 4 " on the lee side? is that normal or is it too loose?
Thanks for your thoughts.


S/V East Coast Lady,
1981 C&C 30 MK1 HIN #
675

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Re: Stus-List Whisker pole attachment to genoa

[jtsails via CnC-List]

David,
I would simply run the sheet through the pole end, the angle should keep the 
pole pushed against the clew. Another option would be to tie the sheet to the 
clew with a bowline and hook the pole into the eye of the bowline.
James
“Delaney”
C&C 38 mk2
Oriental, nc

From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2015 10:16 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Whisker pole attachment to genoa

Speaking of whisker poles, I now have one (Thanks- Chuck!!).  One thing I have 
found is that with the genoa sheets attached, it is hard to find space to 
attach the pole end to the clew ring.  I am thinking of adding a small loop of 
lineto the ring to use for attaching the pole, but am worried about it catching 
on things.  Any suggestions?  Thanks- Dave 

  On May 26, 2015, at 9:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
wrote:

  Very clever Francois.  I'm copying the 34/36 group.



--

  From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List" 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: "Jean-Francois J Rivard" 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 4:49:44 PM
  Subject: Stus-List Pictures of my DIY whisker pole mounts


  Hi, A while back I mentioned I that I made some DIY mounts for my new whisker 
pole, you can check them out on Flickr here:  
https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/


  The links for the parts used are on the photo descriptions. 



  Regards, 


  -Francois Rivard
  1990 34+ "Take Five"
  Lake Lanier, GA


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Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

 




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Re: Stus-List Whisker pole attachment to genoa

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I think it is better that the pole never clip into the clew ring of the sail. 
It should capture the active sheet only. Some skippers tie their bowlines 
bigger and clip into that, but I converted to using a soft shackle through the 
genoa clew that captures the luggage tag ends of the sheets, so not much loop 
to clip into. I clip onto the sheet itself, and use the pole lift to take the 
weight of the pole off the sail. Works well. I keep the jaws up, so releasing 
allows the sail to fly up and out of the jaws. 

Francois developed a smart method that he described previously that allows him 
to set the thing without ever lifting the whole weight of the pole. Maybe he'll 
respond? 

Chuck 

- Original Message -

From: "David Knecht via CnC-List"  
To: "CnC CnC discussion list"  
Cc: "David Knecht"  
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2015 10:16:46 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Whisker pole attachment to genoa 

Speaking of whisker poles, I now have one (Thanks- Chuck!!). One thing I have 
found is that with the genoa sheets attached, it is hard to find space to 
attach the pole end to the clew ring. I am thinking of adding a small loop of 
lineto the ring to use for attaching the pole, but am worried about it catching 
on things. Any suggestions? Thanks- Dave 




On May 26, 2015, at 9:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 

Very clever Francois. I'm copying the 34/36 group. 

- Original Message -

From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Jean-Francois J Rivard"  
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 4:49:44 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Pictures of my DIY whisker pole mounts 

Hi, A while back I mentioned I that I made some DIY mounts for my new whisker 
pole, you can check them out on Flickr here: 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/ 

The links for the parts used are on the photo descriptions. 


Regards, 

-Francois Rivard 
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, GA 

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Aries 
1990 C&C 34+ 
New London, CT 



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Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 MK1

[Curtis via CnC-List]

Well, The weekend before that I did put up just the 115%. I did have
lighter wind 7 to so 12 but I lost steering as well. I think my next go at
it I will do a single reef and the 115% see if that works better? I thought
maybe the rake was wrong or the inner shrouds to loose? I have all hank on
sails, so I cant just take in canvas when I need to. I also learned its
hard work with 18 to 25 wind.


On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 12:49 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Curtis;
>
>
>
> Basically, it is always easier to balance the boat with both main and
> headsail up. The 110 would probably have been about the right headsail for
> the conditions you describe.
>
>
>
> Boats of the generation we have - with large fore triangles, masthead
> rigs, and sometimes 170% genoas - were  designed to be powered by the
> headsail more than more current designs. I usually just use my headsail on
> those occasions when I chose to put up only one for some reason or other.
>
>
>
> As far as when to reef the main, I can't really give a firm answer. It
> depends on conditions and how the boat is performing. If you are fighting
> the helm, if the boat wants to round up and can't be balanced, if the rail
> is in the water, or if the Admiral is giving you dirty looks, it is
> probably past time to reef. Hull speed on your boat is probably in the
> neighborhood of 6 1/2 knots. All the sail area in the world won't make the
> boat go significantly faster. All the excess sail area does is put the rail
> in the water and make you work harder than needed.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C&C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Curtis
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 26, 2015 10:26 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Curtis
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 MK1
>
>
>
> I sailed this past Sunday with 18 to 20 with 25 gust. I had just the main
> with no head sail. The man was not reefed.
>
> I had to fight the helm all after noon. Should I have reefed and raised
> the 110% head sail? Would she have better balanced? Also my inner shroud
> was slack like 3" to 4 " on the lee side? is that normal or is it too
> loose? Thanks for your thoughts.
>
>
>
>
>
> S/V East Coast Lady,
>
> 1981 C&C 30 MK1 HIN #
>
> 675
>
>
>
> On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 7:51 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 15 inches sounds a bit much for a 30 but I'd try it for a while before I
> make any change.  If you don't see a lot of weather helm in stiff breezes,
> don't worry about it.
>
> I have 11-12 inches rake on my 35-1 and really like the way it sails.
> Fairly neutral helm.  And that's with a fairly old main.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 8:17 AM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Howdy listers,
>
>
>
> Last year I had my forestay replaced (for a new roller furler) and it
> ended up being longer than the original by maybe about 4 or 5 inches .  I
> have adjusted the forestay all the way down but I still need plenty of
> backstay to keep it all tight.  So now my mast rake is about 15 inches at
> the boom.  I don't have a ton of weather helm but it's hard to be sure
> because I replaced the old main at the same time that I redid the forestay
> and the new sail is much more efficient.  The extra rake also lowers the
> boom so I need to use topping lift to keep it off the dodger.
>
>
>
> So.how many inches of rake do you have?  And what would you consider
> optimal?  I will have to redo the forestay to fix this but it may be worth
> it.
>
>
>
> As always, I appreciate all the opinions and advice!
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Joe Boyle
>
> 30 MK1 'ZIA'
>
> Annapolis
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> *Best regards,*
>
> *Curtis McDaniel, *
>
> *C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*
>
> Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
> didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
> from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
> Discover.  -Mark Twain
> http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
> *cpt.b...@gmail.com *
>
>
>
> * __/) *
>
> .
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc

Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on C&C 30 M

[Curtis via CnC-List]

This makes better sense. Next time I will Reef


On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 1:22 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Curtis,
>
> My boat is different but I was in 18-25 knots with elderly guests (4 in
> their mid 70's)  a few weeks back.  To keep it on the easy side we put 2
> reefs on the main and sailed main only while getting out of the marina
> area.. As soon as we got clear water, we deployed the genoa (and furled it
> to about 100%) the boat became more balanced, easy going, and was actually
> heeling less than on main only..
> On the other hand, when the winds are more moderate main only seems fine
> if a good bit slower.  It seems that going with the main only in strong
> winds just puts her in a pi$$y mood.
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> lake Lanier, GA
>
>
> I sailed this past Sunday with 18 to 20 with 25 gust. I had just the main
> with no head sail. The man was not reefed.
> I had to fight the helm all after noon. Should I have reefed and raised the
> 110% head sail? Would she have better balanced? Also my inner shroud was
> slack like 3" to 4 " on the lee side? is that normal or is it too loose?
> Thanks for your thoughts.
>
>
> S/V East Coast Lady,
> 1981 C&C 30 MK1 HIN #
> 675
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



*cpt.b...@gmail.com *


* __/) *

.
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Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a 
pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and 
fittings throughout.  All appear to be original except for those 
around the three way valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or 
possible more) of the "T" fittings where the hot and cold water runs 
split behind the sink to go to the sink and shower in the head have 
small leaks.  Here's a picture 
-https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/


The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. 
But, they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the 
head scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high 
priority.   Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have, similar 
issues at other junctures that I have not discovered yet.  According 
to my brother, who has a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a similar 
set up, this grey stuff was all the rage, including in residential 
applications, until they learned that it started to deteriorate after 
20 years or so, developing hair line cracks and leaks.  The company 
is now out of business, of course.


These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done 
originally without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a 
wrench on them but am worried that if I can to either tighten them or 
loosen them to put on the tape sealant before tightening em back up 
until they stop leaking, they'll break.  Thus, turning a small 
problem into a big one.  Now to my actual question...


What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough 
cleaning and drying process?


Has anyone done this successfully?

If so, what did you use?

If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest 
I try?  (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one)


As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome!

thx

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Stus-List instrument panel

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

I made a cover of sunbrella with a centre of clear plastic. Attached to the 
hull above the panel by velcro. Works really well keeping rain and spray off. 
If we flood the cockpit, then no protection. ___

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Stus-List Score!

[Andrew Frame via CnC-List]

While strolling the clearance aisle at Wallyworld this evening I found a 
Humminbird PirhanhMax 175 sonar for ... $30.


Exactly the kind of item that I've been keeping my eyes out for.



--

Andrew Frame
C&C 24
Lehigh Acres/Alva, FL

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Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I have replaced most of the original gray hoses with vinyl water hose.  This 
also means changing the connections to hose barbs--they are a lot more reliable!

Bob

On May 27, 2015, at 7:14 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List wrote:

> New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a 
> pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and fittings 
> throughout.  All appear to be original except for those around the three way 
> valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or possible more) of the "T" fittings 
> where the hot and cold water runs split behind the sink to go to the sink and 
> shower in the head have small leaks.  Here's a picture - 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/ 
> 
> The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But, they 
> leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head scandalizing the 
> Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high priority.   Also, I suspect that 
> I may have, or will have, similar issues at other junctures that I have not 
> discovered yet.  According to my brother, who has a CS40 at Niagara on the 
> Lake with a similar set up, this grey stuff was all the rage, including in 
> residential applications, until they learned that it started to deteriorate 
> after 20 years or so, developing hair line cracks and leaks.  The company is 
> now out of business, of course.
> 
> These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done originally 
> without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a wrench on them but am 
> worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them to put on the 
> tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop leaking, they'll 
> break.  Thus, turning a small problem into a big one.  Now to my actual 
> question...
> 
> What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning and 
> drying process?
> 
> Has anyone done this successfully?
> 
> If so, what did you use?  
> 
> If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I try?  
> (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one)
> 
> As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome!
> 
> thx
> 
> Tom B  
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats." --Kenneth Grahame

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Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Tom,

 

I have been very successful at replacing the original gray butyl plumbing
pipe with PEX.  It is readily available at RV stores and uses many of the
same connections.  The pipe is easier to bend and seals well.  Check it out.
I've had several sections of the grey tubing crack and fail.  PEX appears to
be much more durable.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2015 7:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

 

New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a
pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and fittings
throughout.  All appear to be original except for those around the three way
valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or possible more) of the "T"
fittings where the hot and cold water runs split behind the sink to go to
the sink and shower in the head have small leaks.  Here's a picture -
https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/
  

The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But, they
leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head scandalizing
the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high priority.   Also, I suspect
that I may have, or will have, similar issues at other junctures that I have
not discovered yet.  According to my brother, who has a CS40 at Niagara on
the Lake with a similar set up, this grey stuff was all the rage, including
in residential applications, until they learned that it started to
deteriorate after 20 years or so, developing hair line cracks and leaks.
The company is now out of business, of course.

These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done originally
without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a wrench on them but
am worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them to put on the
tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop leaking, they'll
break.  Thus, turning a small problem into a big one.  Now to my actual
question...

What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning and
drying process?

Has anyone done this successfully?

If so, what did you use?  

If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I try?
(My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one)

As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome!

thx

Tom B  



Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com  


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Stus-List 3GM and water heater

[Dave via CnC-List]

Does anyone on the list have a raw water cooled Yanmar 3GM hooked up to a water 
heater? 

I realize that the raw water cooled engine runs cooler than then one with a 
heat exchanger but I can live with warm and not hot water. However, I was told 
by a mechanic that this could harm the water pump but since it's simply a 
rubber impeller turning on a shaft I don't see happening. He also suggested 
that the increased length/back pressure will lesson the flow through the 
system. 

So, I'm curious to see if hooking the water heater to the 3GM cooling system 
will harm the engine. 

Dave J 

Saltaire 
C&C 35-3 
Bristol, RI 
- Original Message -

From: "Bill Coleman via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Bill Coleman"  
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2015 8:35:47 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates... 



Dave, 



Maybe they are too busy to be bothered right now, B/C it appears they do have 
them, 



http://southshoreyachts.com/product-category/cc-parts/page/3/ 







Regards, 



Bill Coleman 

CC 39 





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:12 PM 
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: David 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates... 





Tried them. Want to bolt base to toerail and not the deck. Less holes and all 
that. 

David F. Risch 
(401) 419-4650 (cell) 




Date: Wed, 20 May 2015 14:06:20 -0400 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates... 
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
CC: joel.aron...@gmail.com 


South Shore Yachts in Toronto? 





On Wed, May 20, 2015 at 2:02 PM, David via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 


Anybody know a source for stanchion legs for our toerails? 

Thanks in advance. 


David F. Risch 
1981 40-2 
(401) 419-4650 (cell) 



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-- 


Joel 
301 541 8551 



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Re: Stus-List 3GM and water heater

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Dave
It should work, but another down side is that the salt water will 
corrode the heat exchanger coils - they aren't designed for salt water.  
Your hot water tank might not last too long.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-05-27 10:10 PM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:
Does anyone on the list have a raw water cooled Yanmar 3GM hooked up 
to a water heater?


I realize that the raw water cooled engine runs cooler than then one 
with a heat exchanger but I can live with warm and not hot water. 
However, I was told by a mechanic that this could harm the water pump 
but since it's simply a rubber impeller turning on a shaft I don't see 
happening. He also suggested that the increased length/back pressure 
will lesson the flow through the system.


So, I'm curious to see if hooking the water heater to the 3GM cooling 
system will harm the engine.


Dave J

Saltaire
C&C 35-3
Bristol, RI




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Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Tom,

Those connections and pipe are called "qest" it was made by zurn the
current makers of pex but the two are not compatible.  You can get crimp
adapters made by Apollo to convert from qest pipe to pex pipe and then to
pex fittings.  Or some online retailers are still selling ALL of the qest
fittings.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On May 27, 2015 7:13 PM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>  New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a
> pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and fittings
> throughout.  All appear to be original except for those around the three
> way valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or possible more) of the "T"
> fittings where the hot and cold water runs split behind the sink to go to
> the sink and shower in the head have small leaks.  Here's a picture -
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/
>
> The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But,
> they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head
> scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high priority.
> Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have, similar issues at other
> junctures that I have not discovered yet.  According to my brother, who has
> a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a similar set up, this grey stuff was
> all the rage, including in residential applications, until they learned
> that it started to deteriorate after 20 years or so, developing hair line
> cracks and leaks.  The company is now out of business, of course.
>
> These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done originally
> without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a wrench on them but
> am worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them to put on
> the tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop leaking,
> they'll break.  Thus, turning a small problem into a big one.  Now to my
> actual question...
>
> What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning
> and drying process?
>
> Has anyone done this successfully?
>
> If so, what did you use?
>
> If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I
> try?  (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one)
>
> As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome!
>
> thx
>
> Tom B
>
>  Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Score!

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Test it as soon as possible.

Is that subtle enough?

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 27 May 2015 at 17:08, Andrew Frame via CnC-List 
wrote:

>
> While strolling the clearance aisle at Wallyworld this evening I found a
> Humminbird PirhanhMax 175 sonar for ... $30.
>
> Exactly the kind of item that I've been keeping my eyes out for.
>
>
>
> --
>
> Andrew Frame
> C&C 24
> Lehigh Acres/Alva, FL
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List 3GM and water heater

[Dave via CnC-List]

Graham, 

Thanks. I got a water heater with stainless steel heating tubes for that very 
reason and frankly if the water heater last 3 or 4 seasons that will be fine. 
Is yours plumbed that way? 

Dave J 

Saltaire 
C&C 35-3 
Bristol, RI 


- Original Message -

From: "Graham Collins via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Graham Collins"  
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2015 9:19:38 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GM and water heater 

Hi Dave 
It should work, but another down side is that the salt water will corrode the 
heat exchanger coils - they aren't designed for salt water. Your hot water tank 
might not last too long. 
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11 
On 2015-05-27 10:10 PM, Dave via CnC-List wrote: 



Does anyone on the list have a raw water cooled Yanmar 3GM hooked up to a water 
heater? 

I realize that the raw water cooled engine runs cooler than then one with a 
heat exchanger but I can live with warm and not hot water. However, I was told 
by a mechanic that this could harm the water pump but since it's simply a 
rubber impeller turning on a shaft I don't see happening. He also suggested 
that the increased length/back pressure will lesson the flow through the 
system. 

So, I'm curious to see if hooking the water heater to the 3GM cooling system 
will harm the engine. 

Dave J 

Saltaire 
C&C 35-3 
Bristol, RI 
- Original Message -





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Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates...

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

David,

 

Base styles B C and D attach only through the toe rail. (style A is used on
my friend's 1983 29 mk2, and has one hole in the deck and uses two of the
hull to deck through bolts.) Which base you need depends on what cross
section of toe rail you have.

 

I converted my 76 model 38 mk2 from the old style bases mounted to the deck
to style B, which are the bases for my particular toe rail. No holes in the
deck. Two bolts through the hull to deck joint and toe rail (one of them is
an existing hull to deck bolt, but the other was a new hole that had to be
drilled because the bolt hole spacing is slightly off.) The other bolt goes
through the upright leg of the toe rail itself.

 

As far as I can see, these bases make for a much stronger stanchion
arrangement, eliminated the cracking of the deck gelcoat (which, I'm
reminded, is another cosmetic repair I've not gotten to yet) and gained
about 4" more width to the side decks.

 

The stanchions with legs you see on the same page goes into two of these
bases.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2015 9:55 AM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates...

 

Thanks Bill, but I was looking for legs that terminate and secure at the
toe-rail.   Was trying to avoid more holes in the deck.


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Date: Wed, 27 May 2015 08:35:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
CC: colt...@verizon.net  

Dave, 

 

Maybe they are too busy to be bothered right now, B/C it appears they do
have them,

 

http://southshoreyachts.com/product-category/cc-parts/page/3/

 

 

Regards,

 

Bill Coleman

CC 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:12 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates...

 

Tried them.   Want to bolt base to toerail and not the deck.   Less holes
and all that.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

  _  

Date: Wed, 20 May 2015 14:06:20 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stanchion Legs For Gates...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
CC: joel.aron...@gmail.com  

South Shore Yachts in Toronto?

 

On Wed, May 20, 2015 at 2:02 PM, David via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Anybody know a source for stanchion legs for our toerails?

Thanks in  advance.


David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List 3GM and water heater

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Dave
I heat water with a separate Espar heater, used for hot water and for 
cabin heat.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-05-27 10:31 PM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:

Graham,

Thanks. I got a water heater with stainless steel heating tubes for 
that very reason and frankly if the water heater last 3 or 4 seasons 
that will be fine. Is yours plumbed that way?


Dave J

Saltaire
C&C 35-3
Bristol, RI



*From: *"Graham Collins via CnC-List" 
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc: *"Graham Collins" 
*Sent: *Wednesday, May 27, 2015 9:19:38 PM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List 3GM and water heater

Hi Dave
It should work, but another down side is that the salt water will 
corrode the heat exchanger coils - they aren't designed for salt 
water.  Your hot water tank might not last too long.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-05-27 10:10 PM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:

Does anyone on the list have a raw water cooled Yanmar 3GM hooked
up to a water heater?

I realize that the raw water cooled engine runs cooler than then
one with a heat exchanger but I can live with warm and not hot
water. However, I was told by a mechanic that this could harm the
water pump but since it's simply a rubber impeller turning on a
shaft I don't see happening. He also suggested that the increased
length/back pressure will lesson the flow through the system.

So, I'm curious to see if hooking the water heater to the 3GM
cooling system will harm the engine.

Dave J

Saltaire
C&C 35-3
Bristol, RI




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Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Most RV stores carry those fittings.
Marek 


Sent from my Samsung device over Bell's LTE network.

 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
Date: 2015-05-27  21:29  (GMT-05:00) 
To: C&C List  
Cc: Josh Muckley  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors 

Tom,
Those connections and pipe are called "qest" it was made by zurn the current 
makers of pex but the two are not compatible.  You can get crimp adapters made 
by Apollo to convert from qest pipe to pex pipe and then to pex fittings.  Or 
some online retailers are still selling ALL of the qest fittings.
Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD
On May 27, 2015 7:13 PM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List"  
wrote:


New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a
pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and
fittings throughout.  All appear to be original except for those
around the three way valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or
possible more) of the "T" fittings where the hot and cold water
runs split behind the sink to go to the sink and shower in the head have
small leaks.  Here's a picture
-
https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/



The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But,
they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head
scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high
priority.   Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have,
similar issues at other junctures that I have not discovered yet. 
According to my brother, who has a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a
similar set up, this grey stuff was all the rage, including in
residential applications, until they learned that it started to
deteriorate after 20 years or so, developing hair line cracks and
leaks.  The company is now out of business, of course.


These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done originally
without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a wrench on
them but am worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them
to put on the tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop
leaking, they'll break.  Thus, turning a small problem into a big
one.  Now to my actual question...


What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning
and drying process?


Has anyone done this successfully?


If so, what did you use?  


If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I
try?  (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about
that one)


As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all
welcome!


thx


Tom B  


Tom Buscaglia

SV Alera

1990 C&C 37+/40

Vashon Island WA

(206) 463-9200

www.sv-alera.com




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Stus-List AirBnB boat

[PME via CnC-List]

Heard of AirBnB yet?  Here is a creative way to pay for the slip fees:  

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/3815654?checkin=06%2F01%2F2015&checkout=06%2F04%2F2015&s=K66J

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

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Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Tom,

I don't have anything to add to the other comments regarding original 
source and alternatives. But I will point out that teflon tape is 
useless as a sealing medium

 in compression fitting applications.
In pipe thread (NPT) applications the thread contact surfaces make 
the seal, in compression fittings the threads simply afford a clamping force.


In other words, don't try to fix this problem with a thread tape solution.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 04:14 PM 27/05/2015, you wrote:
New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a 
pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and 
fittings throughout.  All appear to be original except for those 
around the three way valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or 
possible more) of the "T" fittings where the hot and cold water runs 
split behind the sink to go to the sink and shower in the head have 
small leaks.  Here's a picture - 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/


The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. 
But, they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the 
head scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high 
priority.   Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have, similar 
issues at other junctures that I have not discovered yet.  According 
to my brother, who has a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a similar 
set up, this grey stuff was all the rage, including in residential 
applications, until they learned that it started to deteriorate 
after 20 years or so, developing hair line cracks and leaks.  The 
company is now out of business, of course.


These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done 
originally without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a 
wrench on them but am worried that if I can to either tighten them 
or loosen them to put on the tape sealant before tightening em back 
up until they stop leaking, they'll break.  Thus, turning a small 
problem into a big one.  Now to my actual question...


What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough 
cleaning and drying process?


Has anyone done this successfully?

If so, what did you use?

If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest 
I try?  (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one)


As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome!

thx

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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