Re: Stus-List Anchor Size
Joe, for what you describe you are planning on doing, that anchor should do just fine. If you think you may be possibly caught needing more secure footing, there are several recently introduced anchors that may serve you better; Rocna etc, but at considerably more cost. As others are pointing out, more weight means more security and the more chain in the rode, the better the anchor will perform. You might also consider installing a windlass as, unless you are a built like a windlass, manually hauling bigger anchors and more chain can be a real slog. I used a 15 kg. Bruce with 150’ of 5/16” chain backed by 200’ of ⅝” nylon rode with a Lofrans windlass on my LF38 for the 17 years I owned her and never had a problem. Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC INDIGO LF38 Boatless! On May 31, 2015, at 22:04, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: What size anchor do I need for my 38? I want to put a plow anchor on a roller and found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on the photo album that says that would be more than enough but that chart seems to be the exception. We are in Lake Erie and our only real use would be for an afternoon of swimming and occasional overnight in a very protected bay. Thanks Joe Sent from my iPad ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List ST6002 replacement parts
http://hudsonmarine.co.uk/index.php?module_display=41pid=142544 Over the weekend we raced in 20-25 TWS and managed to break only one thing. Our raymarine ST6002 wheel pilot. Although not in use something managed to catch on it (possibly a foot) and the grey ring on the wheel came apart with the usual bang and ball bearings flying that accompany breakage. The attached link seems to be a parts diagram for this or a similar unit. Part 11 the “drive ring” has a portion broken off as well as part 10 “bearing cage” which we found in pieces. We may have salvaged all of the stainless bearings but not certain. Anyone know where to find replacement parts and how many bearings there are supposed to be? (21 in this diagram but not sure if that is for ST6002) Mike Persistence Halifax ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List ST6002 replacement parts
She’s been in that slip since 1997. Say hi to Barry Clarke, the new owner and get him on the chat group. He’s a good guy and a great doctor. Kept me alive for years, much to everyone’s annoyance. Rich On Jun 1, 2015, at 08:06, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks Rich Have contacted CMC Indigo is in the water right across from Persistence Mike From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich via CnC-List Sent: Monday, June 01, 2015 12:05 PM To: cnc-list Cnc-List Cc: Knowles Rich Subject: Re: Stus-List ST6002 replacement parts Mike: Binnacle can get that stuff for you or you can go direct to CMC, or whatever they call themselves these days, the Raymarine reps in Burnside. 902-468-8480. Cheers Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC INDIGO LF38 Boatless! On Jun 1, 2015, at 05:51, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: http://hudsonmarine.co.uk/index.php?module_display=41pid=142544 http://hudsonmarine.co.uk/index.php?module_display=41pid=142544 Over the weekend we raced in 20-25 TWS and managed to break only one thing. Our raymarine ST6002 wheel pilot. Although not in use something managed to catch on it (possibly a foot) and the grey ring on the wheel came apart with the usual bang and ball bearings flying that accompany breakage. The attached link seems to be a parts diagram for this or a similar unit. Part 11 the “drive ring” has a portion broken off as well as part 10 “bearing cage” which we found in pieces. We may have salvaged all of the stainless bearings but not certain. Anyone know where to find replacement parts and how many bearings there are supposed to be? (21 in this diagram but not sure if that is for ST6002) Mike Persistence Halifax ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List ST6002 replacement parts
Mike: Binnacle can get that stuff for you or you can go direct to CMC, or whatever they call themselves these days, the Raymarine reps in Burnside. 902-468-8480. Cheers Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC INDIGO LF38 Boatless! On Jun 1, 2015, at 05:51, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: http://hudsonmarine.co.uk/index.php?module_display=41pid=142544 http://hudsonmarine.co.uk/index.php?module_display=41pid=142544 Over the weekend we raced in 20-25 TWS and managed to break only one thing. Our raymarine ST6002 wheel pilot. Although not in use something managed to catch on it (possibly a foot) and the grey ring on the wheel came apart with the usual bang and ball bearings flying that accompany breakage. The attached link seems to be a parts diagram for this or a similar unit. Part 11 the “drive ring” has a portion broken off as well as part 10 “bearing cage” which we found in pieces. We may have salvaged all of the stainless bearings but not certain. Anyone know where to find replacement parts and how many bearings there are supposed to be? (21 in this diagram but not sure if that is for ST6002) Mike Persistence Halifax ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List ST6002 replacement parts
Thanks Rich Have contacted CMC Indigo is in the water right across from Persistence Mike From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich via CnC-List Sent: Monday, June 01, 2015 12:05 PM To: cnc-list Cnc-List Cc: Knowles Rich Subject: Re: Stus-List ST6002 replacement parts Mike: Binnacle can get that stuff for you or you can go direct to CMC, or whatever they call themselves these days, the Raymarine reps in Burnside. 902-468-8480. Cheers Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC INDIGO LF38 Boatless! On Jun 1, 2015, at 05:51, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: http://hudsonmarine.co.uk/index.php?module_display=41pid=142544 Over the weekend we raced in 20-25 TWS and managed to break only one thing. Our raymarine ST6002 wheel pilot. Although not in use something managed to catch on it (possibly a foot) and the grey ring on the wheel came apart with the usual bang and ball bearings flying that accompany breakage. The attached link seems to be a parts diagram for this or a similar unit. Part 11 the “drive ring” has a portion broken off as well as part 10 “bearing cage” which we found in pieces. We may have salvaged all of the stainless bearings but not certain. Anyone know where to find replacement parts and how many bearings there are supposed to be? (21 in this diagram but not sure if that is for ST6002) Mike Persistence Halifax ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal
Hi, Below is a post from last May on relining Edson brake pads. - Paul E. 1981 CC Landfall 38 S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL Begin forwarded message: From: PME dre...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake Relining Brakes Date: May 22, 2014 at 1:40:06 PM EDT To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Rob, I just removed the Edson brakes and steering cables/chain from my steering system this past Sunday. And it was near exactly as described by Graham. The hardest part was removing the seized flathead screws. With a little PB Blaster, some perseverance, and a lot of hammer-twisting on an old hand impact driver (like the one at http://tinyurl.com/q823uja http://tinyurl.com/q823uja ) I was able to get the screws out. I will surely use never-seize putting the screws back in. This little impact driver has saved me on several occasions. The removal of the brakes took just a few minutes at this point. To add to Graham's comments, there is a special-sized washer on the brake shaft toward the knob side of the last brake pad. This washer is critical in making the brakes work. It turns out this washer was missing on my brake system, and that my brake pads are fine. Try not to lose this washer or be very cautious when installing a replacement. I called Edson trying to buy the little washer, but they insisted on sending a few washers out to me for free. As many have suggested, stuff rags down the pedestal, but I plan to tie dental floss on this bugger to aid in its installation too. As for brake replacements, the kits go for about $77 online(Defender). I have read online of folks relining these pads. Edson even sells a relining kit but it costs about the same ($80 Jamestown Distributers). Following the success of other, I planned on relining the pads myself. As it looks I will only need the washer, but if the pads do need replacing in the future I surely reline them myself. It Looks like fun and for less than $10 one could reline several sets(help out a buddy). For completeness I included material list and Edson's instructions below. Materials - McMaster-Carr brake liner metal-free 3/16T 1-1/4W 6175K812$3.91/ft http://www.mcmaster.com/#brake-lining/=s2sqod http://www.mcmaster.com/#brake-lining/=s2sqod - Loctite Black Max Adhesive (or epoxy) Brake Lining Replacement Instructions (from Edson EB355_689BrakeInstall.PDF) 1. Remove old brake pads. Clean legs with solvent. 2. Bond new pads to brake legs with generous amounts of supplied adhesive or two-part epoxy. 3. Clamp brake legs around a pipe approximately 1 1/2 in diameter while the adhesive cures so that the new pads conform to the shape of the legs. 4. After adhesive has cured, trim brake pads along edges of brake leges with a band saw or hack saw. 5. Reinstall brake components as described inside and check operation before installing cotter pin. 6. If brake does not clamp properly, check that washer has been installed between shaft shoulder and A743 starboard brake leg. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor Size
and pay attention to how you set the anchor...I mean back off hard on it to make sure it is set well and if you can use at least 7 to 1 rode to depth...I use a 15KG Bruce style knock off with about 40 feet of 5/16 high tensile chain as my main hook and I carry my 35 lb CQR and a large Danforth complete with rodes under the vee berth as spare...I have had very good experiences on the Bruce style anchor...a lot depends on the type of bottom and the set as far as holding power goes Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Mon, Jun 1, 2015 at 3:09 AM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Joe, for what you describe you are planning on doing, that anchor should do just fine. If you think you may be possibly caught needing more secure footing, there are several recently introduced anchors that may serve you better; Rocna etc, but at considerably more cost. As others are pointing out, more weight means more security and the more chain in the rode, the better the anchor will perform. You might also consider installing a windlass as, unless you are a built like a windlass, manually hauling bigger anchors and more chain can be a real slog. I used a 15 kg. Bruce with 150’ of 5/16” chain backed by 200’ of ⅝” nylon rode with a Lofrans windlass on my LF38 for the 17 years I owned her and never had a problem. Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC INDIGO LF38 Boatless! On May 31, 2015, at 22:04, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: What size anchor do I need for my 38? I want to put a plow anchor on a roller and found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on the photo album that says that would be more than enough but that chart seems to be the exception. We are in Lake Erie and our only real use would be for an afternoon of swimming and occasional overnight in a very protected bay. Thanks Joe Sent from my iPad ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rigging/chain-plate tie-rods
Several years ago I noticed a leak in the cabin roof under the place where the chain-plate tie rod goes up to meet with the deck fitting u bolt to which the shrouds are attached. The fibreglass guy sealed the leak. Several weeks ago I noticed a white deposit (calcium–like) on the tie rod at the top and asked a rigger to check it out. He says that the tie rods are aluminum and corrode when moisture gets to them. First they push the deck up (which he says is already happening) and then they pull the u bolt down; this part needs further explanation. Repairs estimated from $1,300 to $2,000, doing both port and starboard sides. I’ve told him I will either repair the rods or sell the boat with disclosure, but will not ignore the problem. My dilemma is the usual one, how long do I continue to put money into an older boat, especially as I’m 75. However I’d rather sell the boat because I can no longer sail it than because I can no longer afford it! Gives me a lot of pleasure and keeps me active and motivated. Anyway, I wonder if anyone has any advice to offer, would appreciate the feed-back.___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor Size
As Rick and others have said, 35 pounds should work for your stated use. I used a 35 Delta in SF Bay for years, although the bottom there was sticky mud. For long term cruising I have a 55 Rocna with 300 feet of chain, and that has held in 50 with gusts to 70. But that's a different use. Wal LF38 Rick wrote: That said, when I was day sailing and weekend cruising, as you describe, with stops for lunch or swimming and nights in local protected coves, my only anchor was the 35 CQR with 35 feet of chain and 200 feet of nylon. So your proposed arrangement should be OK for that limited purpose. If you range more widely and start to run into more adverse conditions, you should think about upgrading the ground tackle. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor Size
Is that 55kg Rocna? with 300 ft of chain? On Jun 1, 2015, at 7:26 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: As Rick and others have said, 35 pounds should work for your stated use. I used a 35 Delta in SF Bay for years, although the bottom there was sticky mud. For long term cruising I have a 55 Rocna with 300 feet of chain, and that has held in 50 with gusts to 70. But that's a different use. Wal LF38 Rick wrote: That said, when I was day sailing and weekend cruising, as you describe, with stops for lunch or swimming and nights in local protected coves, my only anchor was the 35 CQR with 35 feet of chain and 200 feet of nylon. So your proposed arrangement should be OK for that limited purpose. If you range more widely and start to run into more adverse conditions, you should think about upgrading the ground tackle. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rigging/chain-plate tie-rods
Agree. Do the repair, (maybe get a 2nd quote if you think this one is high?) list the boat, and sail till the sale. What size boat and where is it , are important - Original Message - From: Sam Salter via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Sam Salter sam.c.sal...@gmail.com Sent: Monday, June 1, 2015 10:57:11 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigging/chain-plate tie-rods Patrick, $2k is a small price to pay for all the future enjoyment you can potentially get out of The Boat Unless you were thinking of selling and getting out of sailing before this discovery, I'd invest the money. It won't increase the value of the boat, but it sure will make you happy when you're out there sailing. If you get rid of the boat you'll end up going to Bingo nights and bus tours of Bouchard Gardens. A slippery slope my friend; a slippery slope! Sam :-) CC 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta On 2015-06-01, at 6:15 PM, Patrick Wesley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: blockquote Several years ago I noticed a leak in the cabin roof under the place where the chain-plate tie rod goes up to meet with the deck fitting u bolt to which the shrouds are attached. The fibreglass guy sealed the leak. Several weeks ago I noticed a white deposit (calcium–like) on the tie rod at the top and asked a rigger to check it out. He says that the tie rods are aluminum and corrode when moisture gets to them. First they push the deck up (which he says is already happening) and then they pull the u bolt down; this part needs further explanation. Repairs estimated from $1,300 to $2,000, doing both port and starboard sides. I’ve told him I will either repair the rods or sell the boat with disclosure, but will not ignore the problem. My dilemma is the usual one, how long do I continue to put money into an older boat, especially as I’m 75. However I’d rather sell the boat because I can no longer sail it than because I can no longer afford it! Gives me a lot of pleasure and keeps me active and motivated. Anyway, I wonder if anyone has any advice to offer, would appreciate the feed-back. /blockquote blockquote ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com /blockquote ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor Size
This is why I was asking what kind of anchor it was. I had a backyard-built plow anchor on Shift when we bought her, the proportions were all wrong and it held like a castoff barbecue. Design matters. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 1 June 2015 at 21:42, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Dwight, In my reply to Joe I mentioned having but not using a Bruce Lee... that is what a Chinese knock-off is known as around here. Kinda cute, get it? Bruce Lee, the Chinese character? Anyhow, the Bruce Lee is a cast version of the original anchor, which was forged steel. check post #28 http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?162068-Bruce-Anchors Bear in mind that the above is small anchor and cast steel is repairable, you just need to recover the pieces. :) Cheers, Russ *Sweet *35 mk-1 At 07:24 AM 01/06/2015, you wrote: and pay attention to how you set the anchor...I mean back off hard on it to make sure it is set well and if you can use at least 7 to 1 rode to depth...I use a 15KG Bruce style knock off with about 40 feet of 5/16 high tensile chain as my main hook and I carry my 35 lb CQR and a large Danforth complete with rodes under the vee berth as spare...I have had very good experiences on the Bruce style anchor...a lot depends on the type of bottom and the set as far as holding power goes Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Mon, Jun 1, 2015 at 3:09 AM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Joe, for what you describe you are planning on doing, that anchor should do just fine. If you think you may be possibly caught needing more secure footing, there are several recently introduced anchors that may serve you better; Rocna etc, but at considerably more cost. As others are pointing out, more weight means more security and the more chain in the rode, the better the anchor will perform. You might also consider installing a windlass as, unless you are a built like a windlass, manually hauling bigger anchors and more chain can be a real slog.  I used a 15 kg. Bruce with 150’ of 5/16†chain backed by 200’ of â… â€ nylon rode with a Lofrans windlass on my LF38 for the 17 years I owned her and never had a problem. Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC INDIGO LF38 Boatless! On May 31, 2015, at 22:04, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: What size anchor do I need for my 38? I want to put a plow anchor on a roller and found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on the photo album that says that would be more than enough but that chart seems to be the exception. We are in Lake Erie and our only real use would be for an afternoon of swimming and occasional overnight in a very protected bay. Thanks Joe ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons
Rig Rite does have a large selection of gudgeons and pintles. I like the heavy duty model gudgeon that uses 1/4 stainless plate and a replaceable 1/2 SS clevis pin. These parts may seem expensive, but nothing close to what I spent on steering cable/chain and an idler plate this year. Don't skimp on steering. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: Sam Salter via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: sam c salter sam.c.sal...@gmail.com Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 6:00:26 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons Have you checked with Rig-Rite, they always seem to have what I'm looking for? sam :-) Original Message From: Bill Bina via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 8:49 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bill Bina Subject: Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons It is indeed, originally a 1/2 inch diameter pin in a 1/2 inch diameter hole. On mine, the portion on the rudder is still a nice close fit. Just the holes in the gudgeon are enlarged. I did use some 1/2 inch shrink tubing at one time to make up the difference. There really is not room for anything thicker. It seems so loose, but it really is not much of a gap at all. Just enough for an annoying clunk-clunk-clunk all night long of I don't wedge a length of pool noodle between the rudder and transom before turning in for the night. There is likewise, not enough meat to comfortably enlarge the gudgeon holes to fit thicker bushings. The only option would be to reduce the pin to 7/16 inch to allow for a slightly thicker bushing than the very thin shrink tubing. Note that the shrink tubing can not be a continuous piece the length of the pin, as it will not fit through the hole in the rudder piece. Not nearly as simple a problem as it might seem. I may even remove the piece over next winter and have Garhaur or some other machine shop make me new ones using my old one as a model. If I take that route, I will have them make it with a thicker wall, and room for replaceable generic plastic bushings. Bill Bina On 5/31/2015 10:05 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote: The setup appears to be metal on metal. I'm not sure there is much space if any to squeeze a bushing in there. Brent Lake Winnipeg. Sent from my iPhone On May 30, 2015, at 8:30 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Delrin would be better, nylon swells when wet. Any vaguely competent machinist should be able to make them. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 29 May 2015 at 15:25, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I would try nylon bushings before replacing. Had them on my Rhodes 19. Jerry. 27mkv. JJ Sent from my iPhone On May 29, 2015, at 6:18 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Good day. I'm noticing year after year there is more and more play in my transom hung rudder. The 27 MkV has some pretty heavy duty hardware which I believe we're made by Schaefer. I'd like to replace them. My web search is leading me nowhere useful. Has anyone replaced theirs and what did you use. Cheers Brent Driedger 27 MkV Lake Winnipeg. Sent from my iPhone ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
Re: Stus-List Rigging/chain-plate tie-rods
Sam, you're breaking my heart! I hadn't thought of that horrible fate. You don't have to convince me but I have to try to be fair to my wife. Rgds, Patrick Patrick Wesley The Boat C C 24 Sidney BC On Jun 01, 2015, at 07:57 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Patrick, $2k is a small price to pay for all the future enjoyment you can potentially get out of The Boat Unless you were thinking of selling and getting out of sailing before this discovery, I'd invest the money. It won't increase the value of the boat, but it sure will make you happy when you're out there sailing. If you get rid of the boat you'll end up going to Bingo nights and bus tours of Bouchard Gardens. A slippery slope my friend; a slippery slope! Sam :-) CC 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta On 2015-06-01, at 6:15 PM, Patrick Wesley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Several years ago I noticed a leak in the cabin roof under the place where the chain-plate tie rod goes up to meet with the deck fitting u bolt to which the shrouds are attached. The fibreglass guy sealed the leak. Several weeks ago I noticed a white deposit (calcium–like) on the tie rod at the top and asked a rigger to check it out. He says that the tie rods are aluminum and corrode when moisture gets to them. First they push the deck up (which he says is already happening) and then they pull the u bolt down; this part needs further explanation. Repairs estimated from $1,300 to $2,000, doing both port and starboard sides. I’ve told him I will either repair the rods or sell the boat with disclosure, but will not ignore the problem. My dilemma is the usual one, how long do I continue to put money into an older boat, especially as I’m 75. However I’d rather sell the boat because I can no longer sail it than because I can no longer afford it! Gives me a lot of pleasure and keeps me active and motivated. Anyway, I wonder if anyone has any advice to offer, would appreciate the feed-back. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rigging/chain-plate tie-rods
Patrick, $2k is a small price to pay for all the future enjoyment you can potentially get out of The Boat Unless you were thinking of selling and getting out of sailing before this discovery, I'd invest the money. It won't increase the value of the boat, but it sure will make you happy when you're out there sailing. If you get rid of the boat you'll end up going to Bingo nights and bus tours of Bouchard Gardens. A slippery slope my friend; a slippery slope! Sam :-) CC 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta On 2015-06-01, at 6:15 PM, Patrick Wesley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Several years ago I noticed a leak in the cabin roof under the place where the chain-plate tie rod goes up to meet with the deck fitting u bolt to which the shrouds are attached. The fibreglass guy sealed the leak. Several weeks ago I noticed a white deposit (calcium–like) on the tie rod at the top and asked a rigger to check it out. He says that the tie rods are aluminum and corrode when moisture gets to them. First they push the deck up (which he says is already happening) and then they pull the u bolt down; this part needs further explanation. Repairs estimated from $1,300 to $2,000, doing both port and starboard sides. I’ve told him I will either repair the rods or sell the boat with disclosure, but will not ignore the problem. My dilemma is the usual one, how long do I continue to put money into an older boat, especially as I’m 75. However I’d rather sell the boat because I can no longer sail it than because I can no longer afford it! Gives me a lot of pleasure and keeps me active and motivated. Anyway, I wonder if anyone has any advice to offer, would appreciate the feed-back. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rigging/chain-plate tie-rods
Patrick Wesley via CnC-List wrote: Several years ago I noticed a leak in the cabin roof under the place where the chain-plate tie rod goes up to meet with the deck fitting u bolt to which the shrouds are attached. The fibreglass guy sealed the leak. Several weeks ago I noticed a white deposit (calciumlike) on the tie rod at the top and asked a rigger to check it out. He says that the tie rods are aluminum and corrode when moisture gets to them. First they push the deck up (which he says is already happening) and then they pull the u bolt down; this part needs further explanation. Repairs estimated from $1,300 to $2,000, doing both port and starboard sides. Ive told him I will either repair the rods or sell the boat with disclosure, but will not ignore the problem. My dilemma is the usual one, how long do I continue to put money into an older boat, especially as Im 75. However Id rather sell the boat because I can no longer sail it than because I can no longer afford it! Gives me a lot of pleasure and keeps me active and motivated. Anyway, I wonder if anyone has any advice to offer, would appreciate the feed-back. Patrick, On my '78 36 footer, the only aluminum that I had was the cover plate around the chain plates and it was corroding, making it impossible to keep sealant around the hole where the the plates pass through the deck. I slacked the rigging, took the chain plates off to re-seal the area and brought the covers home where I made new ones out of 1/8 stainless steel. I can't say that I've ever seen a boat with aluminum chain plates but in my case there was no cost to repair other than my labour and time. Bill (also 75) Caprice 1 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor Size
Joe; Let me start by saying that I am a fan of BIG anchors and lots of chain. My current setup on my 38 is intended for long tern cruising: two anchors on the bow roller (a 44 lb Bruce and a 35 lb CQR) each with 65 feet of chain and 250 ft of nylon rode. I commonly anchor in 10 feet of water or less, which lets me anchor with essentially all chain and about an additional 10 feet of nylon let out to act as a snubber if the wind comes up. The Bruce is my main anchor and the CQR is a backup. As I get older, I really appreciate the windlass I installed to handle these anchors. As much as I like BIG anchors, they can be a real PITA to retrieve by hand. That said, when I was day sailing and weekend cruising, as you describe, with stops for lunch or swimming and nights in local protected coves, my only anchor was the 35 CQR with 35 feet of chain and 200 feet of nylon. So your proposed arrangement should be OK for that limited purpose. If you range more widely and start to run into more adverse conditions, you should think about upgrading the ground tackle. An old USCG Master Chief once taught me that the rule of thumb is 1 pound of anchor and 1 foot of chain for each foot of boat length. That's for normal anchoring and not for a storm anchor. The charts you have seen are probably for boats anchored with 7:1 scope in up to 30 MPH winds. If you expect storm conditions - even passing thunderstorms - you might be better served to go up a size. And which anchor you chose will depend on the bottom where you are anchoring. A Danforth is great in sand, rotten in shell or soft mud. A plow or Bruce is best for mud or weeds. A Rocna or Manston costs a lot of boat bucks, but you can sleep well at night because those anchors dig in, stay, and reset if broken loose. Washington harbor is soupy mud with wind driven tides and currents that change direction at least daily. The boats with plows and lots of chain tend to stay where they are left. And every month couple of months Sea Tow is pulling some dufus with a 15 pound Danforth and 6 feet of chain off the railroad trestle, the Hwy 17 bridge, or the island in the middle of the harbor. Now all of this isn't really answering your question. I'd suggest you talk to some of the older sailors at your marina or club who are familiar with the local conditions. Ask what they use, and where there are problem anchorages. And use their input to make your final decision. Rick Brass Washington, NC -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Scott via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 9:53 PM To: CnClist Cc: Joseph Scott Subject: Stus-List Anchor Size Hello, What size anchor do I need for my 38? I want to put a plow anchor on a roller and found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on the photo album that says that would be more than enough but that chart seems to be the exception. We are in Lake Erie and our only real use would be for an afternoon of swimming and occasional overnight in a very protected bay. Thanks Joe Sent from my iPad ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
