Re: Stus-List 29-2 stuffing box

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

As I recall, packing should be put in in sections rather than in one spiral 
piece. The method I used before getting a dripless seal, was to carefully cut 
three rings of packing and insert them so the ring ends were rotated 120 
degrees from each other, sort of like piston rings in an engine.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On Jun 2, 2015, at 20:52, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List  
wrote:

HI Bev,  I now have a dripless shaft, but in the past I have tweaked these.  
It’s not complex.  If you don’t need new packing you just tighten the gland to 
a point where it is weeping at the rate you like.  Channel locks or pipe wrench 
will do the trick.  This is not high stress wrenching but you need to tension 
the packing with the first large nut, and then lock your tension with the 
second net to snug.  Too tight on the packing and it will heat up and eat the 
packing pretty quickly, so the whole exercise is gentle and to be happy with 
the rate of drip.  If you tighten it down and the pace continues, you may need 
new packing. If you pull your old packing out a bit and snip some off to see 
what was used you should be able to staunch the flow again.  If you pull it all 
out the box will leak at a high rate.  Lots of folks have the new packing!  
Plan accordingly.  As I recall the new packing wraps in the opposite direction 
as the forward prop spin  (take a mental picture as you pull the old packing 
out), enough to fill the gland then tighten gently to the point the drip slows, 
stops or is very small.  Keep an eye on it and tighten accordingly.  It will 
break in eventually and will remain static possibly for years.   I wish I were 
in Vancouver as I would drop in and fix it, for a couple of pints.  Of course 
in Canada it may be cheaper to hire a top notch mechanic than buy me a couple 
of beers.  lol
It sounds like you are worried about it, and rightly so as the relentless 
dripping adds up in the bilge.  It is not a huge problem though and someone on 
the net will chime in and come give you a hand.  Great folks in BC on C&C and 
other fine vessels.  
Cheers
Rick Rohwer]
C&C 37+ Paikea
Poulsbo, WA 
> On Jun 2, 2015, at 8:21 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> What is the size of nuts on the stuffing box shaft? What size is the packing? 
> Does anyone know of a gnome or elf available for hire in Vancouver to tighten 
> the same?
> ___
> 
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
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> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List 29-2 stuffing box

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Rick & Bev,

Good advice, except the repack. Packing loads 
into the gland as segments, not as a spiral 
wound. The direction of shaft rotation has nothin' to do with it.


I found this very nice explanation to pass along. 
this guy does a bang-up job of presenting this 
task. Pages 2 & 3 is most interesting.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box&page=1
I suggest performing this task during a haulout 
and using the shaft near the propeller as your 
packing segment cutting guide. It's a very comfortable way to do it.


I didn't see it there but a properly adjusted 
stuffing box with flax & lanolin packing (the 
common old timer's marine stuff), will drip once 
per second at running speed and dry up when it cools.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 08:52 PM 02/06/2015, you wrote:
HI Bev,  I now have a dripless shaft, but in the 
past I have tweaked these.  It’s not 
complex.  If you don’t need new packing you 
just tighten the gland to a point where it is 
weeping at the rate you like.  Channel locks or 
pipe wrench will do the trick.  This is not high 
stress wrenching but you need to tension the 
packing with the first large nut, and then lock 
your tension with the second net to snug.  Too 
tight on the packing and it will heat up and eat 
the packing pretty quickly, so the whole 
exercise is gentle and to be happy with the rate 
of drip.  If you tighten it down and the pace 
continues, you may need new packing. If you pull 
your old packing out a bit and snip some off to 
see what was used you should be able to staunch 
the flow again.  If you pull it all out the box 
will leak at a high rate.  Lots of folks have 
the new packing!  Plan accordingly.  As I recall 
the new packing wraps in the opposite direction 
as the forward prop spin  (take a mental picture 
as you pull the old packing out), enough to fill 
the gland then tighten gently to the point the 
drip slows, stops or is very small.  Keep an eye 
on it and tighten accordingly.  It will break in 
eventually and will remain static possibly for 
years.   I wish I were in Vancouver as I would 
drop in and fix it, for a couple of pints.  Of 
course in Canada it may be cheaper to hire a top 
notch mechanic than buy me a couple of beers.  lol
It sounds like you are worried about it, and 
rightly so as the relentless dripping adds up in 
the bilge.  It is not a huge problem though and 
someone on the net will chime in and come give 
you a hand.  Great folks in BC on C&C and other fine vessels.

Cheers
Rick Rohwer]
C&C 37+ Paikea
Poulsbo, WA
On Jun 2, 2015, at 8:21 PM, Bev Parslow via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


What is the size of nuts on the stuffing box 
shaft? What size is the packing? Does anyone 
know of a gnome or elf available for hire in Vancouver to tighten the same?

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Re: Stus-List 29-2 stuffing box

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

A 2 1/4" wrench will do the nuts as I recall, or use a couple of big pipe
wrenches. You'll have to measure the packing, mine was 5/16" teflon. I
crammed my corpus into that space, I'm sure you can.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 2 June 2015 at 20:52, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
wrote:

> HI Bev,  I now have a dripless shaft, but in the past I have tweaked
> these.  It’s not complex.  If you don’t need new packing you just tighten
> the gland to a point where it is weeping at the rate you like.  Channel
> locks or pipe wrench will do the trick.  This is not high stress wrenching
> but you need to tension the packing with the first large nut, and then lock
> your tension with the second net to snug.  Too tight on the packing and it
> will heat up and eat the packing pretty quickly, so the whole exercise is
> gentle and to be happy with the rate of drip.  If you tighten it down and
> the pace continues, you may need new packing. If you pull your old packing
> out a bit and snip some off to see what was used you should be able to
> staunch the flow again.  If you pull it all out the box will leak at a high
> rate.  Lots of folks have the new packing!  Plan accordingly.  As I recall
> the new packing wraps in the opposite direction as the forward prop spin
>  (take a mental picture as you pull the old packing out), enough to fill
> the gland then tighten gently to the point the drip slows, stops or is very
> small.  Keep an eye on it and tighten accordingly.  It will break in
> eventually and will remain static possibly for years.   I wish I were in
> Vancouver as I would drop in and fix it, for a couple of pints.  Of course
> in Canada it may be cheaper to hire a top notch mechanic than buy me a
> couple of beers.  lol
> It sounds like you are worried about it, and rightly so as the relentless
> dripping adds up in the bilge.  It is not a huge problem though and someone
> on the net will chime in and come give you a hand.  Great folks in BC on
> C&C and other fine vessels.
> Cheers
> Rick Rohwer]
> C&C 37+ Paikea
> Poulsbo, WA
>
> On Jun 2, 2015, at 8:21 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> What is the size of nuts on the stuffing box shaft? What size is the
> packing? Does anyone know of a gnome or elf available for hire in Vancouver
> to tighten the same?
> ___
>
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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>
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Stus-List Annapolis to Newport Race

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hey Joel, 
Good luck in the upcoming Annapolis to Newport Race. 
Is there anyway to track the boats racing? 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 
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Re: Stus-List Don't force it, get a bigger rock...

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi all, 
I would be happy to discover an inside trim piece for the ocean 60 for sale.  
Mine is thrashed and Lewmar has changed the design.  

Rick
C&C37+ Paikea
Poulsbo, WA

> On Jun 2, 2015, at 6:51 PM, jtsails via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> If you do wind up replacing the hatches, I would be interested in buying one 
> of the old ones to replace parts of mine (if they are the same size as mine). 
> Let me know!
> James Taylor
> “Delaney”
> C&C 38 mk2
> Oriental, NC
>  
> From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2015 7:43 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Dave Godwin 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Don't force it, get a bigger rock...
>  
> Graham,
>  
> Thanks for that. I was just out searching for info on A & H hatches and I ran 
> across a old thread by Tartan 37 owners talking about replacing theirs. I 
> have never hear of Man Ship hatches but a couple of the listers seemed 
> impressed with them.
>  
> A&H did a complete rebuild of my hatches and although I was pleased with the 
> results the total cost including shipping was, as I recall, a bit more than 
> buying new Lewmars outright.
>  
> Your hatch is too small for me but the offer is much appreciated. Both my 
> forward and main cabin hatches are identical. I haven’t measure them yet (I 
> just disgustedly stored them away for future reference…) but my general 
> impression is that they are around 24” x 24”.
>  
> Cheers,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>  
>> On Jun 2, 2015, at 7:32 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>  
>> Yes.  I used these hatches on the larger forward hatch and on the cabin 
>> hatch.
>> http://www.marinedepotdirect.com/deck-hatches.html 
>> 
>> 
>> What size base do you need?  I've still got base from the smaller old one, 
>> 12x17?  And have you checked with A&H, they are still going and may be able 
>> to sell you a replacement.
>> 
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C&C 35-III #11
>> On 2015-06-02 7:46 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
>>> So, after today’s idiot move on my part, I was wondering if anyone with the 
>>> standard Atkins & Hoyle hatch from an early-to-mid Eighties 35’/37' has 
>>> replaced it with another brand?
>>>  
>>> I managed to bend the base frame on mine.
>>>  
>>> Best,
>>> Dave Godwin
>>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
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>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> of page at:
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>> 
> 
>  
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List 29-2 stuffing box

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

HI Bev,  I now have a dripless shaft, but in the past I have tweaked these.  
It’s not complex.  If you don’t need new packing you just tighten the gland to 
a point where it is weeping at the rate you like.  Channel locks or pipe wrench 
will do the trick.  This is not high stress wrenching but you need to tension 
the packing with the first large nut, and then lock your tension with the 
second net to snug.  Too tight on the packing and it will heat up and eat the 
packing pretty quickly, so the whole exercise is gentle and to be happy with 
the rate of drip.  If you tighten it down and the pace continues, you may need 
new packing. If you pull your old packing out a bit and snip some off to see 
what was used you should be able to staunch the flow again.  If you pull it all 
out the box will leak at a high rate.  Lots of folks have the new packing!  
Plan accordingly.  As I recall the new packing wraps in the opposite direction 
as the forward prop spin  (take a mental picture as you pull the old packing 
out), enough to fill the gland then tighten gently to the point the drip slows, 
stops or is very small.  Keep an eye on it and tighten accordingly.  It will 
break in eventually and will remain static possibly for years.   I wish I were 
in Vancouver as I would drop in and fix it, for a couple of pints.  Of course 
in Canada it may be cheaper to hire a top notch mechanic than buy me a couple 
of beers.  lol
It sounds like you are worried about it, and rightly so as the relentless 
dripping adds up in the bilge.  It is not a huge problem though and someone on 
the net will chime in and come give you a hand.  Great folks in BC on C&C and 
other fine vessels.  
Cheers
Rick Rohwer]
C&C 37+ Paikea
Poulsbo, WA 
> On Jun 2, 2015, at 8:21 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> What is the size of nuts on the stuffing box shaft? What size is the packing? 
> Does anyone know of a gnome or elf available for hire in Vancouver to tighten 
> the same?
> ___
> 
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

On Tue, Jun 2, 2015 at 9:09 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Seriously though Dennis, how could you? Everyone knows that floors run
> athwartship.



Exactly.

Dennis C.
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Stus-List 29-2 stuffing box

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

What is the size of nuts on the stuffing box shaft? What size is the packing? 
Does anyone know of a gnome or elf available for hire in Vancouver to tighten 
the same?___

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Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Please tell me that C&C / Rob Ball figured this whole mess out and took a
lesson learned by the time the 30-2 came out. I am pretty sure my mast step
looks nothing like this. I would rather go sailing than deal with this.

On Tue, Jun 2, 2015, 7:09 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> And I see you missed commenting on the ceiling leak that happened at the
> deckhead. The next thing you know people will be talking about their jib
> tracks mounted on the topside or converting the sloop to a cutter.
>
> As they say up north and down south, "Have at 'er mate."
>
> Seriously though Dennis, how could you? Everyone knows that floors run
> athwartship.
>
> Cheers, Russ
>
> At 05:19 PM 02/06/2015, you wrote:
>
> Oh, no.  Are the nomenclature police offended?  Stringer vs floor?
>
> Didn't we have a lengthy thread on these terms a couple of years ago?  I
> recall reading it in the salonuh main cabinuhsaloon.
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Tue, Jun 2, 2015 at 5:16 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> There appears to be three or more bundles of fibers (glass?) which follow
> the contour of the hull from side to side - each one of the cross members
> rests on one of these bundles and the keel bolts (as I remember) go through
> the bundles as well. I'll check as soon as it quits raining.
> Â
> Gary
> Wet Maryland
>  - Original Message -
>
> From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2015 3:29 PM
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1
>
> Interesting that C&C put a third cross member in.  My boat is a 1973,
> #166, and it only has the two.
>
> When I repaired the step last year, I put a third member in between the
> other two.
>
> Also, my two original, and the third I put in, all rest on the curved
> shoulder of the bilge.  They don't appear to be structural other than
> dedicated to hold up the mast.
>
> Trying to conform to the curve of the bilge, it was not regular, was the
> toughest part.
>
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> STL
>
>
>
> From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Gary Nylander 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:58 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1
>
> Nate, your 30 is the same year as mine, so I would surmise they are built
> the same. Mine is #593.
>
> Â
>
> There are three crosswise stringers under the oak plate. The aluminum box
> is attached to the oak by long screws and the oak plate is attached with
> six long screws. The oak comes off easily.
>
> Â
>
> Depending on how dry your bilge has been kept, the stringers may or may
> not be weakened. If so, the fixes have ranged from removal and replacement
> to just strengthening. I went the strengthening route and framed each
> stringer with a bit of foam board and drilled a bunch of holes in each and
> filled with G-Flex up to the level of the oak. No movement in about five
> years.
>
> Â
>
> The problem is that the factory didn't encapsulate the stringers (which
> are made up of two pieces of 3/4" plywood each) on the bottom, and when the
> bilge is wet, they soak up moisture and get waterlogged. There's glass just
> on the sides.
>
> Â
>
> Some fixers have just put a large horizontal tube for drainage and another
> for access to the forward keel bolt and then filled the whole cavity with
> some sort of filler (microballoons, etc.). You could just fill the lowest
> part so that your bilge pump keeps things dry, but to get all the water
> out, the pump has to be in the lowest part of the sump - under the mast.
> Inaccessible.
>
> Â
>
> Another bypass fix would be to put in a bilge drain. My boat had that, and
> foolishly I filled up that area. I should have replaced it with one which
> is flush to the outside, then for half of the year, the bilge is totally
> dry.
>
> Â
>
> I don't have pictures, but when you take the screws out of the oak, it
> will be pretty obvious what is there.
>
> Â
>
> Good luck, email if you have questions, I have been down the road twice.
>
> Â
>
>
> --
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>
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Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Regulator

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I have exactly the same one with the remote panel. Works great.

 

The 21 W solar panel keeps both of my batteries fully loaded. We don't have any 
shore power at the Club.

 

Marek

C270 "Legato"

Ottawa

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Ricci 
via CnC-List
Sent: June-02-15 16:31
To: 'Edd Schillay'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ron Ricci
Subject: Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Regulator

 

Edd,

 

I installed a http://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-duo/ which can 
charge two separate batteries.  Now all I have to do is figure out where to 
mount a panel.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Solar panel regulator

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Edd, 

I have had very good luck (now running on 5-6 years) with the Morningstar 
SunGuard Solar Charge controller, first with a 20 watt and now with a 40-50 
watt solar panel.  They are relatively cheap, available through Amazon (and 
other places), and is very simple to set up and use.  If it is to charge only a 
single battery or bank, one controller works fine.  I use one solar panel to 
charge both the house and the starting battery, and then you need two 
controllers, but both can be connected to the one solar panel.  The least 
expensive controllers don’t use pulse width modulation to control the charge 
rate, and you definitely want to taper the charge as you approach full charge 
and barely charge at all went up to the full voltage (about 14.4V).

It does matter what type of battery you are charging.  The SunGuard does only 
wet cells (standard car-type batteries) whereas the gel-type batteries need a 
somewhat different charging schedule.  Morningstar makes all kinds - so take a 
look at their web page to see the differences.

One strong point of Morningstar is their excellent tech support and on-line 
explanations and diagrams for how to do everything. Recently I had very 
complete helpful tech input from Noah Sindermann there; he responded to my 
emails within a day and figured out the problem and how to fix it (using two 
controllers driven by the same solar panel, you need blocking diodes on their 
inputs).

Eric
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> Listers,
> 
> I?m looking for a decent charge controller for my 15W solar panel running to 
> my house bank. There seems to be so many choices out there landing from a few 
> bucks to over $60. 
> 
> Edd Schillay

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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Chuck, I think you're onto something here!  Good find. Thanks. 

Brent D
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 1, 2015, at 10:17 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Rig Rite does have a large selection of gudgeons and pintles.  I like the 
> heavy duty model gudgeon that uses 1/4" stainless plate and a replaceable 
> 1/2" SS clevis pin.  These parts may seem expensive, but nothing close to 
> what I spent on steering cable/chain and an idler plate this year.  Don't 
> skimp on steering.
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
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Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

And I see you missed commenting on the ceiling 
leak that happened at the deckhead. The next 
thing you know people will be talking about their 
jib tracks mounted on the topside or converting the sloop to a cutter.


As they say up north and down south, "Have at 'er mate."

Seriously though Dennis, how could you? Everyone 
knows that floors run athwartship.


Cheers, Russ

At 05:19 PM 02/06/2015, you wrote:

Oh, no.  Are the nomenclature police offended?  Stringer vs floor?

Didn't we have a lengthy thread on these terms a 
couple of years ago?  I recall reading it in 
the salonuh main cabinuhsaloon.


Dennis C.

On Tue, Jun 2, 2015 at 5:16 PM, Gary Nylander 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
There appears to be three or more bundles of 
fibers (glass?) which follow the contour of the 
hull from side to side - each one of the cross 
members rests on one of these bundles and the 
keel bolts (as I remember) go through the 
bundles as well. I'll check as soon as it quits raining.

Â
Gary
Wet Maryland
- Original Message -
From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2015 3:29 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1

Interesting that C&C put a third cross member 
in.  My boat is a 1973, #166, and it only has the two.
When I repaired the step last year, I put a 
third member in between the other two.
Also, my two original, and the third I put in, 
all rest on the curved shoulder of the 
bilge.  They don't appear to be structural 
other than dedicated to hold up the mast.
Trying to conform to the curve of the bilge, it 
was not regular, was the toughest part.

Ron
Wild Cheri
STL



From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1

Nate, your 30 is the same year as mine, so I 
would surmise they are built the same. Mine is #593.

Â
There are three crosswise stringers under the 
oak plate. The aluminum box is attached to the 
oak by long screws and the oak plate is attached 
with six long screws. The oak comes off easily.

Â
Depending on how dry your bilge has been kept, 
the stringers may or may not be weakened. If so, 
the fixes have ranged from removal and 
replacement to just strengthening. I went the 
strengthening route and framed each stringer 
with a bit of foam board and drilled a bunch of 
holes in each and filled with G-Flex up to the 
level of the oak. No movement in about five years.

Â
The problem is that the factory didn't 
encapsulate the stringers (which are made up of 
two pieces of 3/4" plywood each) on the bottom, 
and when the bilge is wet, they soak up moisture 
and get waterlogged. There's glass just on the sides.

Â
Some fixers have just put a large horizontal 
tube for drainage and another for access to the 
forward keel bolt and then filled the whole 
cavity with some sort of filler (microballoons, 
etc.). You could just fill the lowest part so 
that your bilge pump keeps things dry, but to 
get all the water out, the pump has to be in the 
lowest part of the sump - under the mast. Inaccessible.

Â
Another bypass fix would be to put in a bilge 
drain. My boat had that, and foolishly I filled 
up that area. I should have replaced it with one 
which is flush to the outside, then for half of 
the year, the bilge is totally dry.

Â
I don't have pictures, but when you take the 
screws out of the oak, it will be pretty obvious what is there.

Â
Good luck, email if you have questions, I have been down the road twice.
Â


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Re: Stus-List Don't force it, get a bigger rock...

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

To answer all of the questions at once:

I replaced all the hatches on the boat with Lewmars. The new hatches all
look great from underneath. I used clear Life Seal to bed it so there is no
oozing grey goo.
Apart from having to fill the old screw holes and drill new ones, it's a
drop-in replacement with better functionality.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 2 June 2015 at 18:51, jtsails via CnC-List  wrote:

>   Dave,
> If you do wind up replacing the hatches, I would be interested in buying
> one of the old ones to replace parts of mine (if they are the same size as
> mine). Let me know!
> James Taylor
> “Delaney”
> C&C 38 mk2
> Oriental, NC
>
>  *From:* Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 02, 2015 7:43 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Dave Godwin 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Don't force it, get a bigger rock...
>
> Graham,
>
> Thanks for that. I was just out searching for info on A & H hatches and I
> ran across a old thread by Tartan 37 owners talking about replacing theirs.
> I have never hear of Man Ship hatches but a couple of the listers seemed
> impressed with them.
>
> A&H did a complete rebuild of my hatches and although I was pleased with
> the results the total cost including shipping was, as I recall, a bit more
> than buying new Lewmars outright.
>
> Your hatch is too small for me but the offer is much appreciated. Both my
> forward and main cabin hatches are identical. I haven’t measure them yet (I
> just disgustedly stored them away for future reference…) but my general
> impression is that they are around 24” x 24”.
>
> Cheers,
>Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
>
> On Jun 2, 2015, at 7:32 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  Yes.  I used these hatches on the larger forward hatch and on the cabin
> hatch.
> http://www.marinedepotdirect.com/deck-hatches.html
>
> What size base do you need?  I've still got base from the smaller old one,
> 12x17?  And have you checked with A&H, they are still going and may be able
> to sell you a replacement.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2015-06-02 7:46 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
>
> So, after today’s idiot move on my part, I was wondering if anyone with
> the standard Atkins & Hoyle hatch from an early-to-mid Eighties 35’/37' has
> replaced it with another brand?
>
> I managed to bend the base frame on mine.
>
> Best,
>   Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Don't force it, get a bigger rock...

[jtsails via CnC-List]

Dave,
If you do wind up replacing the hatches, I would be interested in buying one of 
the old ones to replace parts of mine (if they are the same size as mine). Let 
me know!
James Taylor
“Delaney”
C&C 38 mk2
Oriental, NC

From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2015 7:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Dave Godwin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Don't force it, get a bigger rock...

Graham, 

Thanks for that. I was just out searching for info on A & H hatches and I ran 
across a old thread by Tartan 37 owners talking about replacing theirs. I have 
never hear of Man Ship hatches but a couple of the listers seemed impressed 
with them.

A&H did a complete rebuild of my hatches and although I was pleased with the 
results the total cost including shipping was, as I recall, a bit more than 
buying new Lewmars outright.

Your hatch is too small for me but the offer is much appreciated. Both my 
forward and main cabin hatches are identical. I haven’t measure them yet (I 
just disgustedly stored them away for future reference…) but my general 
impression is that they are around 24” x 24”.

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

  On Jun 2, 2015, at 7:32 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Yes.  I used these hatches on the larger forward hatch and on the cabin hatch.
  http://www.marinedepotdirect.com/deck-hatches.html

  What size base do you need?  I've still got base from the smaller old one, 
12x17?  And have you checked with A&H, they are still going and may be able to 
sell you a replacement.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11On 2015-06-02 7:46 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:

So, after today’s idiot move on my part, I was wondering if anyone with the 
standard Atkins & Hoyle hatch from an early-to-mid Eighties 35’/37' has 
replaced it with another brand? 

I managed to bend the base frame on mine. 

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit


 

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 113, Issue 2

[Joseph Scott via CnC-List]

Thanks all for the anchor advice. 
Much appreciated. 

Joe

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 1, 2015, at 11:10 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Anchor Size (Russ & Melody)
>   2. Re:  Anchor Size (svpegasu...@gmail.com)
>   3. Re:  Anchor Size (Knowles Rich)
>   4.  ST6002 replacement parts (Hoyt, Mike)
>   5. Re:  New Electrical System is Installed -- ThankYouListers!
>  (Robbie Epstein)
>   6. Re:  Anchor Size (dwight veinot)
>   7. Re:  Edson Pedestal (PME)
>   8. Re:  ST6002 replacement parts (Knowles Rich)
>   9. Re:  ST6002 replacement parts (Hoyt, Mike)
>  10. Re:  ST6002 replacement parts (Knowles Rich)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 31 May 2015 22:04:54 -0700
> From: Russ & Melody 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor Size
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed"
> 
> Hi Joe,
> 
> The 35 lb'der will be okay as a "lunch hook", occasional, or whatever 
> you want to call. It can even be considered big for that service.
> 
> Serious cruising where you have many more nights/year on the hook and 
> very little discretion on when to stay overnight at anchor means a 
> minimum 45# is in order. More chain helps too and getting the hook 
> down before Happy Hour is better.
> 
> On the 35 footer, I've been summer cruising with a "temporary" 22# 
> Delta plow and 10 fathoms of chain for 5 years now. I've got an 
> appropriate 33# Bruce Lee once I get my bow roller & winch installed. :)
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> 
> At 06:53 PM 31/05/2015, you wrote:
>> Hello,
>> 
>> What size anchor do I need for my 38?  I want to put a plow anchor 
>> on a roller and found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on 
>> the photo album that says that would be more than enough but that 
>> chart seems to be the exception.  We are in Lake Erie and our only 
>> real use would be for an afternoon of swimming and occasional 
>> overnight in a very protected bay.
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Joe
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> the bottom of page at:
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> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 31 May 2015 22:05:50 -0700 (PDT)
> From: svpegasu...@gmail.com 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor Size
> Message-ID: <000f4242.22893d4658988...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>Joe, on Pegasus I use a 45 pound CQR with 125ft of 3/8 chain. Never worry 
> about dragging. Thank god for my windlass.?
> Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.
> 
> 
> -- Original message--From: Joseph Scott via CnC-List Date: Sun, May 
> 31, 2015 18:53To: CnClist;Cc: Joseph Scott;Subject:Stus-List Anchor 
> SizeHello,What size anchor do I need for my 38?  I want to put a plow anchor 
> on a roller and found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on the photo 
> album that says that would be more than enough but that chart seems to be the 
> exception.  We are in Lake Erie and our only real use would be for an 
> afternoon of swimming and occasional overnight in a very protected bay. 
> ThanksJoeSent from my 
> iPad___Email 
> address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including 
> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page 
> at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 31 May 2015 23:09:22 -0700
> From: Knowles Rich 
> To: cnc-list Cnc-List 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor Size
> Message-ID: <4f52fd91-f003-40cf-98d9-3f203cb52...@sailpower.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Joe, for what you describe you are planning on doing, that anchor should do 
> just fine. If you think you may b

Re: Stus-List Don't force it, get a bigger rock...

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Lewmat Ocean should fit

On Tuesday, June 2, 2015, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
wrote:

> So, after today’s idiot move on my part, I was wondering if anyone with
> the standard Atkins & Hoyle hatch from an early-to-mid Eighties 35’/37' has
> replaced it with another brand?
>
> I managed to bend the base frame on mine.
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Oh, no.  Are the nomenclature police offended?  Stringer vs floor?

Didn't we have a lengthy thread on these terms a couple of years ago?  I
recall reading it in the salonuh main cabinuhsaloon.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Jun 2, 2015 at 5:16 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  There appears to be three or more bundles of fibers (glass?) which
> follow the contour of the hull from side to side - each one of the cross
> members rests on one of these bundles and the keel bolts (as I remember) go
> through the bundles as well. I'll check as soon as it quits raining.
>
> Gary
> Wet Maryland
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ronald B. Frerker 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 02, 2015 3:29 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1
>
>  Interesting that C&C put a third cross member in.  My boat is a 1973,
> #166, and it only has the two.
> When I repaired the step last year, I put a third member in between the
> other two.
> Also, my two original, and the third I put in, all rest on the curved
> shoulder of the bilge.  They don't appear to be structural other than
> dedicated to hold up the mast.
> Trying to conform to the curve of the bilge, it was not regular, was the
> toughest part.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> STL
>
>
>   --
> *From:* Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Gary Nylander 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:58 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1
>
>  Nate, your 30 is the same year as mine, so I would surmise they are
> built the same. Mine is #593.
>
> There are three crosswise stringers under the oak plate. The aluminum box
> is attached to the oak by long screws and the oak plate is attached with
> six long screws. The oak comes off easily.
>
> Depending on how dry your bilge has been kept, the stringers may or may
> not be weakened. If so, the fixes have ranged from removal and replacement
> to just strengthening. I went the strengthening route and framed each
> stringer with a bit of foam board and drilled a bunch of holes in each and
> filled with G-Flex up to the level of the oak. No movement in about five
> years.
>
> The problem is that the factory didn't encapsulate the stringers (which
> are made up of two pieces of 3/4" plywood each) on the bottom, and when the
> bilge is wet, they soak up moisture and get waterlogged. There's glass just
> on the sides.
>
> Some fixers have just put a large horizontal tube for drainage and another
> for access to the forward keel bolt and then filled the whole cavity with
> some sort of filler (microballoons, etc.). You could just fill the lowest
> part so that your bilge pump keeps things dry, but to get all the water
> out, the pump has to be in the lowest part of the sump - under the mast.
> Inaccessible.
>
> Another bypass fix would be to put in a bilge drain. My boat had that, and
> foolishly I filled up that area. I should have replaced it with one which
> is flush to the outside, then for half of the year, the bilge is totally
> dry.
>
> I don't have pictures, but when you take the screws out of the oak, it
> will be pretty obvious what is there.
>
> Good luck, email if you have questions, I have been down the road twice.
>
>
>  --
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Don't force it, get a bigger rock...

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Jim,

The reveal looks fine. Stupid question but how does it look from the v-berth? 
I’ll start doing some measurements tomorrow but is the deck opening the same 
with 60 series vis-a-vis the stock A&H? In English, sorry, is the forward hatch 
on the C&C 35 Mk III’s around 24” x 24”?

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Jun 2, 2015, at 7:41 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The Lewmar Ocean 60 flat base is a fine fit, although it doesn't cover the 
> full area that the A&H hatch did, so there's a bit of unfinished reveal on 
> deck, but it's a minor fix. 
> http://members.shaw.ca/ptarmiganshift/images/IMG_1632.jpg 
> 
> 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List Don't force it, get a bigger rock...

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

A&H is a bit dear, but if you are just replacing one you will have a 
mismatch in style...


I also swapped out my 24x24, but that one was toast - cracked base, 
busted hold-up arm, and the acrylic was shot - so that one went to the 
pit.  Not sure why I stashed the other one in the basement, maybe 
someday I'll build a crappy old boat with leaky hatches, baggy sails, 
and frayed rope.


My ManShip hatches are now 6 years old and are looking great.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-06-02 8:43 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:

Graham,

Thanks for that. I was just out searching for info on A & H hatches 
and I ran across a old thread by Tartan 37 owners talking about 
replacing theirs. I have never hear of Man Ship hatches but a couple 
of the listers seemed impressed with them.


A&H did a complete rebuild of my hatches and although I was pleased 
with the results the total cost including shipping was, as I recall, a 
bit more than buying new Lewmars outright.


Your hatch is too small for me but the offer is much appreciated. Both 
my forward and main cabin hatches are identical. I haven’t measure 
them yet (I just disgustedly stored them away for future reference…) 
but my general impression is that they are around 24” x 24”.


Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

On Jun 2, 2015, at 7:32 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Yes.  I used these hatches on the larger forward hatch and on the 
cabin hatch.

http://www.marinedepotdirect.com/deck-hatches.html

What size base do you need?  I've still got base from the smaller old 
one, 12x17?  And have you checked with A&H, they are still going and 
may be able to sell you a replacement.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-06-02 7:46 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
So, after today’s idiot move on my part, I was wondering if anyone 
with the standard Atkins & Hoyle hatch from an early-to-mid Eighties 
35’/37' has replaced it with another brand?


I managed to bend the base frame on mine.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 



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Re: Stus-List Don't force it, get a bigger rock...

[D Harben via CnC-List]

Jim,

Did you renew/replace the small port side hatch in the photo?

Don

> On Jun 2, 2015, at 7:41 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The Lewmar Ocean 60 flat base is a fine fit, although it doesn't cover the 
> full area that the A&H hatch did, so there's a bit of unfinished reveal on 
> deck, but it's a minor fix. 
> http://members.shaw.ca/ptarmiganshift/images/IMG_1632.jpg
> 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 2 June 2015 at 16:32, Graham Collins via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Yes.  I used these hatches on the larger forward hatch and on the cabin 
>> hatch.
>> http://www.marinedepotdirect.com/deck-hatches.html
>> 
>> What size base do you need?  I've still got base from the smaller old one, 
>> 12x17?  And have you checked with A&H, they are still going and may be able 
>> to sell you a replacement.
>> 
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C&C 35-III #11
>>> On 2015-06-02 7:46 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
>>> So, after today’s idiot move on my part, I was wondering if anyone with the 
>>> standard Atkins & Hoyle hatch from an early-to-mid Eighties 35’/37' has 
>>> replaced it with another brand?
>>> 
>>> I managed to bend the base frame on mine. 
>>> 
>>> Best,
>>> Dave Godwin
>>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
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>> 
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Re: Stus-List Don't force it, get a bigger rock...

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Graham,

Thanks for that. I was just out searching for info on A & H hatches and I ran 
across a old thread by Tartan 37 owners talking about replacing theirs. I have 
never hear of Man Ship hatches but a couple of the listers seemed impressed 
with them.

A&H did a complete rebuild of my hatches and although I was pleased with the 
results the total cost including shipping was, as I recall, a bit more than 
buying new Lewmars outright.

Your hatch is too small for me but the offer is much appreciated. Both my 
forward and main cabin hatches are identical. I haven’t measure them yet (I 
just disgustedly stored them away for future reference…) but my general 
impression is that they are around 24” x 24”.

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Jun 2, 2015, at 7:32 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yes.  I used these hatches on the larger forward hatch and on the cabin hatch.
> http://www.marinedepotdirect.com/deck-hatches.html 
> 
> 
> What size base do you need?  I've still got base from the smaller old one, 
> 12x17?  And have you checked with A&H, they are still going and may be able 
> to sell you a replacement.
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> On 2015-06-02 7:46 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
>> So, after today’s idiot move on my part, I was wondering if anyone with the 
>> standard Atkins & Hoyle hatch from an early-to-mid Eighties 35’/37' has 
>> replaced it with another brand?
>> 
>> I managed to bend the base frame on mine. 
>> 
>> Best,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Don't force it, get a bigger rock...

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

The Lewmar Ocean 60 flat base is a fine fit, although it doesn't cover the
full area that the A&H hatch did, so there's a bit of unfinished reveal on
deck, but it's a minor fix.
http://members.shaw.ca/ptarmiganshift/images/IMG_1632.jpg


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 2 June 2015 at 16:32, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
wrote:

>  Yes.  I used these hatches on the larger forward hatch and on the cabin
> hatch.
> http://www.marinedepotdirect.com/deck-hatches.html
>
> What size base do you need?  I've still got base from the smaller old one,
> 12x17?  And have you checked with A&H, they are still going and may be able
> to sell you a replacement.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2015-06-02 7:46 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
>
> So, after today’s idiot move on my part, I was wondering if anyone with
> the standard Atkins & Hoyle hatch from an early-to-mid Eighties 35’/37' has
> replaced it with another brand?
>
>  I managed to bend the base frame on mine.
>
>  Best,
>   Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
>
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Don't force it, get a bigger rock...

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Yes.  I used these hatches on the larger forward hatch and on the cabin 
hatch.

http://www.marinedepotdirect.com/deck-hatches.html

What size base do you need?  I've still got base from the smaller old 
one, 12x17?  And have you checked with A&H, they are still going and may 
be able to sell you a replacement.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-06-02 7:46 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
So, after today’s idiot move on my part, I was wondering if anyone 
with the standard Atkins & Hoyle hatch from an early-to-mid Eighties 
35’/37' has replaced it with another brand?


I managed to bend the base frame on mine.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 



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Stus-List Don't force it, get a bigger rock...

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

So, after today’s idiot move on my part, I was wondering if anyone with the 
standard Atkins & Hoyle hatch from an early-to-mid Eighties 35’/37' has 
replaced it with another brand?

I managed to bend the base frame on mine. 

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
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Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

There appears to be three or more bundles of fibers (glass?) which follow the 
contour of the hull from side to side - each one of the cross members rests on 
one of these bundles and the keel bolts (as I remember) go through the bundles 
as well. I'll check as soon as it quits raining.

Gary
Wet Maryland
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2015 3:29 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1


  Interesting that C&C put a third cross member in.  My boat is a 1973, #166, 
and it only has the two.
  When I repaired the step last year, I put a third member in between the other 
two.
  Also, my two original, and the third I put in, all rest on the curved 
shoulder of the bilge.  They don't appear to be structural other than dedicated 
to hold up the mast.
  Trying to conform to the curve of the bilge, it was not regular, was the 
toughest part.
  Ron
  Wild Cheri
  STL





--
  From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Gary Nylander  
  Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:58 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1



  Nate, your 30 is the same year as mine, so I would surmise they are built the 
same. Mine is #593.

  There are three crosswise stringers under the oak plate. The aluminum box is 
attached to the oak by long screws and the oak plate is attached with six long 
screws. The oak comes off easily.

  Depending on how dry your bilge has been kept, the stringers may or may not 
be weakened. If so, the fixes have ranged from removal and replacement to just 
strengthening. I went the strengthening route and framed each stringer with a 
bit of foam board and drilled a bunch of holes in each and filled with G-Flex 
up to the level of the oak. No movement in about five years.

  The problem is that the factory didn't encapsulate the stringers (which are 
made up of two pieces of 3/4" plywood each) on the bottom, and when the bilge 
is wet, they soak up moisture and get waterlogged. There's glass just on the 
sides.

  Some fixers have just put a large horizontal tube for drainage and another 
for access to the forward keel bolt and then filled the whole cavity with some 
sort of filler (microballoons, etc.). You could just fill the lowest part so 
that your bilge pump keeps things dry, but to get all the water out, the pump 
has to be in the lowest part of the sump - under the mast. Inaccessible.

  Another bypass fix would be to put in a bilge drain. My boat had that, and 
foolishly I filled up that area. I should have replaced it with one which is 
flush to the outside, then for half of the year, the bilge is totally dry.

  I don't have pictures, but when you take the screws out of the oak, it will 
be pretty obvious what is there.

  Good luck, email if you have questions, I have been down the road twice.





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Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Regulator

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

My feeling based on my research was that the price delta on the MPPT vs PWM
controllers only becomes worthwhile when you get over 100 watts. For my 65
I use an el cheapo Chinese made PWM controller that displays AMPs out. None
of the high end ones recommended do and it is a very handy feature. It also
displays voltage and has a temp diode to control charge rate based on
temperature. I got it as a kit with my 65 watt panel complete with plenty
of 12 gauge wiring and MC4 connectors already crimped for about $200 CAD.

Now, if I had lots of solar on my boat and I relied on it to *live, *then I
would invest in better technology. As it stands now, my 65 watter got us
through a three week cruise last year. We don't have refrigeration or
anything like that on board. Just the basic fans, pressure water, stereo,
lights, etc.
My .02.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Tue, Jun 2, 2015 at 4:54 PM, Bill Bina via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> MPPT regulators do indeed offer a noticeable benefit with small panels.
> The problem is that many regulators advertised as MPPT do not actually have
> MPPT circuitry within. Buy a Genasun MPPT regulator!
>
> Bill Bina
>
>
>
> On 6/2/2015 3:24 PM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List wrote:
>
>> As you begin to regulate higher amperage and voltage you can have the
>> same considerations as alternator regulators and smart chargers.
>>
>> Battery type influencing bulk and float voltages ... can they be
>> programmed or adjusted on the cheapest regulator.
>>
>> Do you need a way to dump to some shunt when batteries are fully charged
>> ... usually not a problem for solar but significant for wind.
>>
>> MPPT controllers converting over-voltage typical in solar to useful
>> amp-hours at standard voltages gives higher efficiency in good
>> conditions if you need it ... at a modest price premium.
>>
>> Ed
>>
>> Prime Interest
>> 1982 LF38
>>
>> Toronto
>>
>> On Jun 2, 2015 2:59 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>
>> Bob,
>>
>> I haven’t, but I want the ability to move up to a stronger panel if
>> I need to.
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log > >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  On Jun 2, 2015, at 2:57 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>> 15 watt is so small I wonder if you even need one.  Have you
>>> measured the voltage output from the solar panel?
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> Bob Boyer
>>> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
>>> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
>>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
>>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 
>>>
>>> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as
>>> simply messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>>>
>>> On Jun 2, 2015, at 2:54 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>>  Listers,

 I’m looking for a decent charge controller for my 15W solar panel
 running to my house bank. There seems to be so many choices out
 there landing from a few bucks to over $60.

 What should I be looking for? Will this one work well enough?

 http://www.amazon.com/Controller-Battery-Regulator-Protection-Controle/dp/B00UTECG5O/ref=sr_1_30?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1433271044&sr=1-30&keywords=solar+panel+regulator+12V



 All the best,

 Edd


 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 


 









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>>> ___
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>>> the bottom of page at:
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>>
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>> Email a

Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Regulator

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

MPPT regulators do indeed offer a noticeable benefit with small panels. 
The problem is that many regulators advertised as MPPT do not actually 
have MPPT circuitry within. Buy a Genasun MPPT regulator!


Bill Bina



On 6/2/2015 3:24 PM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List wrote:

As you begin to regulate higher amperage and voltage you can have the
same considerations as alternator regulators and smart chargers.

Battery type influencing bulk and float voltages ... can they be
programmed or adjusted on the cheapest regulator.

Do you need a way to dump to some shunt when batteries are fully charged
... usually not a problem for solar but significant for wind.

MPPT controllers converting over-voltage typical in solar to useful
amp-hours at standard voltages gives higher efficiency in good
conditions if you need it ... at a modest price premium.

Ed

Prime Interest
1982 LF38

Toronto

On Jun 2, 2015 2:59 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Bob,

I haven’t, but I want the ability to move up to a stronger panel if
I need to.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 












On Jun 2, 2015, at 2:57 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

15 watt is so small I wonder if you even need one.  Have you
measured the voltage output from the solar panel?

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as
simply messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

On Jun 2, 2015, at 2:54 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Listers,

I’m looking for a decent charge controller for my 15W solar panel
running to my house bank. There seems to be so many choices out
there landing from a few bucks to over $60.

What should I be looking for? Will this one work well enough?

http://www.amazon.com/Controller-Battery-Regulator-Protection-Controle/dp/B00UTECG5O/ref=sr_1_30?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1433271044&sr=1-30&keywords=solar+panel+regulator+12V



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log













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Re: Stus-List chainplates

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Jimmy, you're paying attention. I owned two 1966 Hinterhoeller Sharks, one
of them here in salt water, plus our 29-2 (I think) and 35-3 (for sure)
came with aluminum chainplates. I'm interested to see what it looks like in
there.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 2 June 2015 at 12:41, jimmy kelly via CnC-List 
wrote:

> jim watts probably good to check with.believe he had shark  before he
> moved up to current c&cif early built shark he will know what to look
> for in your yachthinterholler sharks in early days used many different
> metals for chainplateseven aluminum...let us know how it goes..
>
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Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Regulator

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Ron,

I used to have one of those (years ago) and it just stopped working on me. Ben 
through a couple of cheapo versions since. I just bought the Genasun GV-4, 
which is highly recommended at $70 including ground shipping.

As for mounting, I have a flexible that I’ve got lying on the sliding 
companionway. The wires go through the deck and down that stainless “pipe” that 
goes from the ceiling through the galley and under the sinks. My batteries are 
on the other side of that cabinet under the starboard settee. So, I’ve mounted 
my ACR, connections, circuit breakers and the solar charge controller all under 
there. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













> On Jun 2, 2015, at 4:30 PM, Ron Ricci  wrote:
> 
> Edd,
>  
> I installed a http://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-duo/ 
>  which can charge two 
> separate batteries.  Now all I have to do is figure out where to mount a 
> panel.
>  
> Regards,
> Ron
> Ronald V. Ricci
> S/V Patriot
> C&C 37+
> Bristol, RI
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com 
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Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Regulator

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

I installed a http://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-duo/ which can 
charge two separate batteries.  Now all I have to do is figure out where to 
mount a panel.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Regulator

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Edd,

it is a moot point now, but don’t believe in solar charging with no regulator. 
I found it one of the sure ways of killing the battery. One summer with 6W 
solar charger to a 80 Ah marine battery and it was a toast.

GenSun is the easiest choice (best reviews and good price). Morningstar is 
good, as well, especially if you want to have two batteries charged separately 
(without EchoCharger).

Marek

From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2015 2:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Regulator

Bob, 

I haven’t, but I want the ability to move up to a stronger panel if I need to. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log


 











  On Jun 2, 2015, at 2:57 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List  
wrote:

  15 watt is so small I wonder if you even need one.  Have you measured the 
voltage output from the solar panel?

  Bob

  Bob Boyer 
  S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
  1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
  email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
  blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com


  "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

  On Jun 2, 2015, at 2:54 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:


Listers, 

I’m looking for a decent charge controller for my 15W solar panel running 
to my house bank. There seems to be so many choices out there landing from a 
few bucks to over $60. 

What should I be looking for? Will this one work well enough? 
http://www.amazon.com/Controller-Battery-Regulator-Protection-Controle/dp/B00UTECG5O/ref=sr_1_30?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1433271044&sr=1-30&keywords=solar+panel+regulator+12V
 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log


 











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Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Regulator

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

  
  
I'd recommend reading
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/solar_panel

Includes an explanation of charge controllers and need for such

Mark
CS30 Prosecco 
-
  
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-06-02 3:54 PM, Edd Schillay via
  CnC-List wrote:


  
  Listers,
  
  
  I’m looking for a decent charge controller for my
15W solar panel running to my house bank. There seems to be so
many choices out there landing from a few bucks to over $60. 
  
  
  What should I be looking for? Will this one work
well enough? http://www.amazon.com/Controller-Battery-Regulator-Protection-Controle/dp/B00UTECG5O/ref=sr_1_30?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1433271044&sr=1-30&keywords=solar+panel+regulator+12V 
  

  

  
All the best,
  
  
  Edd
  
  
  
  
  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY 

  
  Starship
  Enterprise's Captain's Log
  
  
  
  

  
  
  
  
  

  
  



  

  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Regulator

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Josh,

Thank you. Ordered. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













> On Jun 2, 2015, at 3:25 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> I would avoid that type of charge controller.  It is PWM type and is less 
> effective at pulling all available power out of the panel.  It IS cheap 
> though.  Check out this article.
> 
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/solar_panel 
> 
> Josh
> 
> On Jun 2, 2015 2:54 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Listers,
> 
> I’m looking for a decent charge controller for my 15W solar panel running to 
> my house bank. There seems to be so many choices out there landing from a few 
> bucks to over $60. 
> 
> What should I be looking for? Will this one work well enough? 
> http://www.amazon.com/Controller-Battery-Regulator-Protection-Controle/dp/B00UTECG5O/ref=sr_1_30?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1433271044&sr=1-30&keywords=solar+panel+regulator+12V
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> 
> 

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Stus-List chainplates

[jimmy kelly via CnC-List]

jim watts probably good to check with.believe he had shark  before he
moved up to current c&cif early built shark he will know what to look
for in your yachthinterholler sharks in early days used many different
metals for chainplateseven aluminum...let us know how it goes..
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Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Interesting that C&C put a third cross member in.  My boat is a 1973, #166, and 
it only has the two.When I repaired the step last year, I put a third member in 
between the other two.Also, my two original, and the third I put in, all rest 
on the curved shoulder of the bilge.  They don't appear to be structural other 
than dedicated to hold up the mast.Trying to conform to the curve of the bilge, 
it was not regular, was the toughest part.RonWild CheriSTL

  From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Gary Nylander  
 Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:58 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1
   
Nate, your 30 is the same year as mine, so I would surmise they are built the 
same. Mine is #593. There are three crosswise stringers under the oak plate. 
The aluminum box is attached to the oak by long screws and the oak plate is 
attached with six long screws. The oak comes off easily. Depending on how dry 
your bilge has been kept, the stringers may or may not be weakened. If so, the 
fixes have ranged from removal and replacement to just strengthening. I went 
the strengthening route and framed each stringer with a bit of foam board and 
drilled a bunch of holes in each and filled with G-Flex up to the level of the 
oak. No movement in about five years. The problem is that the factory didn't 
encapsulate the stringers (which are made up of two pieces of 3/4" plywood 
each) on the bottom, and when the bilge is wet, they soak up moisture and get 
waterlogged. There's glass just on the sides. Some fixers have just put a large 
horizontal tube for drainage and another for access to the forward keel bolt 
and then filled the whole cavity with some sort of filler (microballoons, 
etc.). You could just fill the lowest part so that your bilge pump keeps things 
dry, but to get all the water out, the pump has to be in the lowest part of the 
sump - under the mast. Inaccessible. Another bypass fix would be to put in a 
bilge drain. My boat had that, and foolishly I filled up that area. I should 
have replaced it with one which is flush to the outside, then for half of the 
year, the bilge is totally dry. I don't have pictures, but when you take the 
screws out of the oak, it will be pretty obvious what is there. Good luck, 
email if you have questions, I have been down the road twice. 
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Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Regulator

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

As you begin to regulate higher amperage and voltage you can have the same
considerations as alternator regulators and smart chargers.

Battery type influencing bulk and float voltages ... can they be programmed
or adjusted on the cheapest regulator.

Do you need a way to dump to some shunt when batteries are fully charged
... usually not a problem for solar but significant for wind.

MPPT controllers converting over-voltage typical in solar to useful
amp-hours at standard voltages gives higher efficiency in good conditions
if you need it ... at a modest price premium.

Ed

Prime Interest
1982 LF38

Toronto
On Jun 2, 2015 2:59 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Bob,
>
> I haven’t, but I want the ability to move up to a stronger panel if I need
> to.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 2, 2015, at 2:57 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 15 watt is so small I wonder if you even need one.  Have you measured the
> voltage output from the solar panel?
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>
> On Jun 2, 2015, at 2:54 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I’m looking for a decent charge controller for my 15W solar panel running
> to my house bank. There seems to be so many choices out there landing from
> a few bucks to over $60.
>
> What should I be looking for? Will this one work well enough?
> http://www.amazon.com/Controller-Battery-Regulator-Protection-Controle/dp/B00UTECG5O/ref=sr_1_30?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1433271044&sr=1-30&keywords=solar+panel+regulator+12V
>
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Regulator

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Bob,

I haven’t, but I want the ability to move up to a stronger panel if I need to. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













> On Jun 2, 2015, at 2:57 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 15 watt is so small I wonder if you even need one.  Have you measured the 
> voltage output from the solar panel?
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com  
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 
> 
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
> 
> On Jun 2, 2015, at 2:54 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>> Listers,
>> 
>> I’m looking for a decent charge controller for my 15W solar panel running to 
>> my house bank. There seems to be so many choices out there landing from a 
>> few bucks to over $60. 
>> 
>> What should I be looking for? Will this one work well enough? 
>> http://www.amazon.com/Controller-Battery-Regulator-Protection-Controle/dp/B00UTECG5O/ref=sr_1_30?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1433271044&sr=1-30&keywords=solar+panel+regulator+12V
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Regulator

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

15 watt is so small I wonder if you even need one.  Have you measured the 
voltage output from the solar panel?

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Jun 2, 2015, at 2:54 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> I’m looking for a decent charge controller for my 15W solar panel running to 
> my house bank. There seems to be so many choices out there landing from a few 
> bucks to over $60. 
> 
> What should I be looking for? Will this one work well enough? 
> http://www.amazon.com/Controller-Battery-Regulator-Protection-Controle/dp/B00UTECG5O/ref=sr_1_30?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1433271044&sr=1-30&keywords=solar+panel+regulator+12V
>  
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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Stus-List Solar Panel Regulator

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

I’m looking for a decent charge controller for my 15W solar panel running to my 
house bank. There seems to be so many choices out there landing from a few 
bucks to over $60. 

What should I be looking for? Will this one work well enough? 
http://www.amazon.com/Controller-Battery-Regulator-Protection-Controle/dp/B00UTECG5O/ref=sr_1_30?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1433271044&sr=1-30&keywords=solar+panel+regulator+12V
 

 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













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Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Or moor to it…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 2, 2015, at 11:19 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have a nice Force Ten small log style BBQ on the bottom of Mississippi 
> Sound near Petit Bois Island.  Any lister is welcome to retrieve it.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Rigging/chain-plate tie-rods

[Patrick Wesley via CnC-List]

Hi Jim, that would be very helpful. What is best # to reach you? My mobile is 
250 380 8959. Patrick 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 2, 2015, at 9:39 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Patrick, I'd be happy to look at the problem if you want a second opinion. 
> I'm out at Westport several days a week usually. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 2 June 2015 at 09:12, Andrew Frame via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I find that down-sizing has benefited me in some parts of life. How do you 
>> feel about selling the boat, and moving to a smaller, less 
>> maintenance-intense vessel?
>> 
>> Andrew
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On 06/02/2015 11:45 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List wrote:
>>> We have a number of boats in our local fleet with owners in their 80's and 
>>> a couple in their 90's. One 90+ owner with a Bermuda 40 spends much money 
>>> each year making the boat better. Pretty varnish and up to date (for a 
>>> B40). He will sail it until he can't get aboard (now has a younger (in his 
>>> 60's) skipper, but he is still on the wheel a lot). If the boat is worth 
>>> the investment and you are still able - - go for it!
>>> 
>>> A few years back, I was asked to crew for a skipper in his late 80's. He 
>>> drove through the starting sequence and a bit longer, and then said "take 
>>> the wheel, I need to go below" and went down and took a nap. He was up for 
>>> the finish.
>>> 
>>> Gary
>>>- Original Message -
>>>From: Patrick Wesley via CnC-List
>>>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>>Cc: Patrick Wesley
>>>Sent: Monday, June 01, 2015 8:15 PM
>>>Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigging/chain-plate tie-rods
>>> 
>>> 
>>>  Several years ago I noticed a leak in the cabin roof under the place 
>>> where the chain-plate tie rod goes up to meet with the deck fitting u bolt 
>>> to which the shrouds are attached. The fibreglass guy sealed the leak. 
>>> Several weeks ago I noticed a white deposit (calcium–like) on the tie rod 
>>> at the top and asked a rigger to check it out. He says that the tie rods 
>>> are aluminum and corrode when moisture gets to them. First they push the 
>>> deck up (which he says is already happening) and then they pull the u bolt 
>>> down; this part needs further explanation. Repairs estimated from $1,300 to 
>>> $2,000, doing both port and starboard sides. I’ve told him I will either 
>>> repair the rods or sell the boat with disclosure, but will not ignore the 
>>> problem.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>My dilemma is the usual one, how long do I continue to put money into an 
>>> older boat, especially as I’m 75. However I’d rather sell the boat because 
>>> I can no longer sail it than because I can no longer afford it! Gives me a 
>>> lot of pleasure and keeps me active and motivated.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>Anyway, I wonder if anyone has any advice to offer, would appreciate the 
>>> feed-back.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> 
>>> 
>>>___
>>> 
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
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>>> 
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>> 
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Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I also have one of those log style Force Tens on the bottom of the
Northwest Arm in Halifax harbour just south of the Dingle Tower about 75
feet off the west shore in about 30 feet of water.  We all watched it break
free when I went to light it and for a brief moment it look as if it were
going to float...that totally changed our dinner plans...weak link was
three little spot welds on the mounting hardware

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Tue, Jun 2, 2015 at 1:19 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a nice Force Ten small log style BBQ on the bottom of Mississippi
> Sound near Petit Bois Island.  Any lister is welcome to retrieve it.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Jun 2, 2015 at 9:31 AM, D Harben via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> 
>>
>> Data driven evidence suggests that a knockdown can separate the elements
>> of a rail BBQ. Use of said BBQ does work as a sea anchor bit may drag in
>> mud.
>>
>> D
>>
>> On Jun 2, 2015, at 9:58 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> What kind of barbeque? I think a Weber with side burner will do okay in a
>> weedy bottom if the top opens. :)
>>
>> Cheers, Russ
>> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>>
>> At 10:04 PM 01/06/2015, you wrote:
>>
>> This is why I was asking what kind of anchor it was. I had a
>> backyard-built plow anchor on Shift when we bought her, the proportions
>> were all wrong and it held like a castoff barbecue. Design matters.
>>
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>>
>> On 1 June 2015 at 21:42, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>  Hi Dwight,
>>
>> In my reply to Joe I mentioned having but not using a Bruce Lee... that
>> is what a Chinese knock-off is known as around here. Kinda cute, get it?
>> Bruce Lee, the Chinese  character?
>>
>> Anyhow, the Bruce Lee is a cast version of the original anchor, which was
>> forged steel.
>> check post #28
>>  http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?162068-Bruce-Anchors
>> Bear in mind that the above is small anchor and cast steel is repairable,
>> you just need to recover the pieces. :)
>>
>> Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
>> Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35 mk-1
>>
>> At 07:24 AM 01/06/2015, you wrote:
>>
>> and pay attention to how you set the anchor...I mean back off hard on it
>> to make sure it is set well and if you can use at least 7 to 1 rode to
>> depth...I use a 15KG Bruce style knock off with about 40 feet of 5/16 high
>> tensile chain as my main hook and I carry my 35 lb CQR and a large Danforth
>> complete with rodes under the vee berth as spare...I have had very good
>> experiences on the Bruce style anchor...a lot depends on the type of bottom
>> and the set as far as holding power goes
>>
>> Dwight Veinot
>> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 1, 2015 at 3:09 AM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Joe, for what you describe you are
>> planning on doing, that anchor should do just fine. If you think you may be
>> possibly caught needing more secure footing, there are several recently
>> introduced anchors that may serve you better; Rocna etc, but at
>> considerably more cost. As others are pointing out, more weight means more
>> security and the more chain in the rode, the better the anchor will perform.
>> You might also consider installing a windlass as, unless you are a built
>> like a windlass, manually hauling bigger anchors and more chain can be a
>> real slog.
>>  I used a 15 kg. Bruce with 150â€â„„¢ of 5/16†chain backed by
>> 200’ â„¢ of â… â€ nylon rode with a Lofrans windlass on mn my LF38 for
>> the 17 years I owned her and never had a problem.
>>
>> Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC INDIGO LF38 Boatless!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On May 31, 2015, at 22:04, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>  What size anchor do I need for my 38?  I want to put a plow anchor
>> on a roller and found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on the
>> photo album that says that would be more than enough but that chart seems
>> to be the exception.  We are in Lake Erie and our only real use would be
>> for an afternoon of swimming and occasional overnight in a very protected
>> bay.Â
>> Thanks
>> Joe
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>>  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
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>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>> __

Re: Stus-List Rigging/chain-plate tie-rods

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Patrick, I'd be happy to look at the problem if you want a second opinion.
I'm out at Westport several days a week usually.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 2 June 2015 at 09:12, Andrew Frame via CnC-List 
wrote:

>
> I find that down-sizing has benefited me in some parts of life. How do you
> feel about selling the boat, and moving to a smaller, less
> maintenance-intense vessel?
>
> Andrew
>
>
>
>
> On 06/02/2015 11:45 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List wrote:
>
>> We have a number of boats in our local fleet with owners in their 80's
>> and a couple in their 90's. One 90+ owner with a Bermuda 40 spends much
>> money each year making the boat better. Pretty varnish and up to date (for
>> a B40). He will sail it until he can't get aboard (now has a younger (in
>> his 60's) skipper, but he is still on the wheel a lot). If the boat is
>> worth the investment and you are still able - - go for it!
>>
>> A few years back, I was asked to crew for a skipper in his late 80's. He
>> drove through the starting sequence and a bit longer, and then said "take
>> the wheel, I need to go below" and went down and took a nap. He was up for
>> the finish.
>>
>> Gary
>>- Original Message -
>>From: Patrick Wesley via CnC-List
>>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>Cc: Patrick Wesley
>>Sent: Monday, June 01, 2015 8:15 PM
>>Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigging/chain-plate tie-rods
>>
>>
>>  Several years ago I noticed a leak in the cabin roof under the place
>> where the chain-plate tie rod goes up to meet with the deck fitting u bolt
>> to which the shrouds are attached. The fibreglass guy sealed the leak.
>> Several weeks ago I noticed a white deposit (calcium–like) on the tie rod
>> at the top and asked a rigger to check it out. He says that the tie rods
>> are aluminum and corrode when moisture gets to them. First they push the
>> deck up (which he says is already happening) and then they pull the u bolt
>> down; this part needs further explanation. Repairs estimated from $1,300 to
>> $2,000, doing both port and starboard sides. I’ve told him I will either
>> repair the rods or sell the boat with disclosure, but will not ignore the
>> problem.
>>
>>
>>
>>My dilemma is the usual one, how long do I continue to put money into
>> an older boat, especially as I’m 75. However I’d rather sell the boat
>> because I can no longer sail it than because I can no longer afford it!
>> Gives me a lot of pleasure and keeps me active and motivated.
>>
>>
>>
>>Anyway, I wonder if anyone has any advice to offer, would appreciate
>> the feed-back.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>>
>>___
>>
>>Email address:
>>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
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Stus-List aluminum chain plates

[jimmy kelly via CnC-List]

many older c&c s built early 1970s especially custom builts  have aluminium
chain plates  ..the advise you have from yard is not to helpfultheir
answer is to replace with stainless?  they are stainless steel workers?
most aluminum used in key areas is aircraft specification...one of original
founding companies   ..belleville marine and their associate companies were
aircraft parts mfg &used aircraft spec. aluminum for aircraft as well yacht
buildingmost of the smaller aircraft still operating just fine   ..this
spec ification of aluminum will show some white scale under certain
conditions but not generally any corrosion which is structurally
significate.do you see any eaten away aluminium?...is the chainplate
moving or still strongly fixed?is the leak you had repaired still leak?
probably the only real risk is water getting into wood backing plate or
fiberglass...this can be fixed very easily  even by a person with 75plus
year old hockey knees...i know..it is quite possible little needs to be
done..i would be interested what year and model the yacht is & may be able
to check info in more detailwhere is yacht located ?  DONT GIVE UP THE
SHIPYETfor i understand bingo nights  bouchart gardens not very
good substitute...
redline 41  ,1968   south vancouver island.
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Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I have a nice Force Ten small log style BBQ on the bottom of Mississippi
Sound near Petit Bois Island.  Any lister is welcome to retrieve it.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jun 2, 2015 at 9:31 AM, D Harben via CnC-List  wrote:

> 
>
> Data driven evidence suggests that a knockdown can separate the elements
> of a rail BBQ. Use of said BBQ does work as a sea anchor bit may drag in
> mud.
>
> D
>
> On Jun 2, 2015, at 9:58 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> What kind of barbeque? I think a Weber with side burner will do okay in a
> weedy bottom if the top opens. :)
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>
> At 10:04 PM 01/06/2015, you wrote:
>
> This is why I was asking what kind of anchor it was. I had a
> backyard-built plow anchor on Shift when we bought her, the proportions
> were all wrong and it held like a castoff barbecue. Design matters.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 1 June 2015 at 21:42, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>  Hi Dwight,
>
> In my reply to Joe I mentioned having but not using a Bruce Lee... that is
> what a Chinese knock-off is known as around here. Kinda cute, get it? Bruce
> Lee, the Chinese  character?
>
> Anyhow, the Bruce Lee is a cast version of the original anchor, which was
> forged steel.
> check post #28
>  http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?162068-Bruce-Anchors
> Bear in mind that the above is small anchor and cast steel is repairable,
> you just need to recover the pieces. :)
>
> Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
> Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35 mk-1
>
> At 07:24 AM 01/06/2015, you wrote:
>
> and pay attention to how you set the anchor...I mean back off hard on it
> to make sure it is set well and if you can use at least 7 to 1 rode to
> depth...I use a 15KG Bruce style knock off with about 40 feet of 5/16 high
> tensile chain as my main hook and I carry my 35 lb CQR and a large Danforth
> complete with rodes under the vee berth as spare...I have had very good
> experiences on the Bruce style anchor...a lot depends on the type of bottom
> and the set as far as holding power goes
>
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 1, 2015 at 3:09 AM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Joe, for what you describe you are planning
> on doing, that anchor should do just fine. If you think you may be possibly
> caught needing more secure footing, there are several recently introduced
> anchors that may serve you better; Rocna etc, but at considerably more
> cost. As others are pointing out, more weight means more security and the
> more chain in the rode, the better the anchor will perform.
> You might also consider installing a windlass as, unless you are a built
> like a windlass, manually hauling bigger anchors and more chain can be a
> real slog.
>  I used a 15 kg. Bruce with 150â€â„„¢ of 5/16†chain backed by
> 200’ â„¢ of â… â€ nylon rode with a Lofrans windlass on mn my LF38 for
> the 17 years I owned her and never had a problem.
>
> Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC INDIGO LF38 Boatless!
>
>
>
>
> On May 31, 2015, at 22:04, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  What size anchor do I need for my 38?  I want to put a plow anchor on
> a roller and found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on the photo
> album that says that would be more than enough but that chart seems to be
> the exception.  We are in Lake Erie and our only real use would be for
> an afternoon of swimming and occasional overnight in a very protected
> bay.Â
> Thanks
> Joe
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
>  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
>  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Rigging/chain-plate tie-rods

[Andrew Frame via CnC-List]

I find that down-sizing has benefited me in some parts of life. How do 
you feel about selling the boat, and moving to a smaller, less 
maintenance-intense vessel?


Andrew




On 06/02/2015 11:45 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List wrote:

We have a number of boats in our local fleet with owners in their 80's and a 
couple in their 90's. One 90+ owner with a Bermuda 40 spends much money each 
year making the boat better. Pretty varnish and up to date (for a B40). He will 
sail it until he can't get aboard (now has a younger (in his 60's) skipper, but 
he is still on the wheel a lot). If the boat is worth the investment and you 
are still able - - go for it!

A few years back, I was asked to crew for a skipper in his late 80's. He drove through 
the starting sequence and a bit longer, and then said "take the wheel, I need to go 
below" and went down and took a nap. He was up for the finish.

Gary
   - Original Message -
   From: Patrick Wesley via CnC-List
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   Cc: Patrick Wesley
   Sent: Monday, June 01, 2015 8:15 PM
   Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigging/chain-plate tie-rods


 Several years ago I noticed a leak in the cabin roof under the place where 
the chain-plate tie rod goes up to meet with the deck fitting u bolt to which 
the shrouds are attached. The fibreglass guy sealed the leak. Several weeks ago 
I noticed a white deposit (calcium–like) on the tie rod at the top and asked a 
rigger to check it out. He says that the tie rods are aluminum and corrode when 
moisture gets to them. First they push the deck up (which he says is already 
happening) and then they pull the u bolt down; this part needs further 
explanation. Repairs estimated from $1,300 to $2,000, doing both port and 
starboard sides. I’ve told him I will either repair the rods or sell the boat 
with disclosure, but will not ignore the problem.



   My dilemma is the usual one, how long do I continue to put money into an 
older boat, especially as I’m 75. However I’d rather sell the boat because I 
can no longer sail it than because I can no longer afford it! Gives me a lot of 
pleasure and keeps me active and motivated.



   Anyway, I wonder if anyone has any advice to offer, would appreciate the 
feed-back.



--


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___

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Re: Stus-List Rigging/chain-plate tie-rods

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

We have a number of boats in our local fleet with owners in their 80's and a 
couple in their 90's. One 90+ owner with a Bermuda 40 spends much money each 
year making the boat better. Pretty varnish and up to date (for a B40). He will 
sail it until he can't get aboard (now has a younger (in his 60's) skipper, but 
he is still on the wheel a lot). If the boat is worth the investment and you 
are still able - - go for it!

A few years back, I was asked to crew for a skipper in his late 80's. He drove 
through the starting sequence and a bit longer, and then said "take the wheel, 
I need to go below" and went down and took a nap. He was up for the finish.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Patrick Wesley via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Patrick Wesley 
  Sent: Monday, June 01, 2015 8:15 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigging/chain-plate tie-rods


Several years ago I noticed a leak in the cabin roof under the place where 
the chain-plate tie rod goes up to meet with the deck fitting u bolt to which 
the shrouds are attached. The fibreglass guy sealed the leak. Several weeks ago 
I noticed a white deposit (calcium–like) on the tie rod at the top and asked a 
rigger to check it out. He says that the tie rods are aluminum and corrode when 
moisture gets to them. First they push the deck up (which he says is already 
happening) and then they pull the u bolt down; this part needs further 
explanation. Repairs estimated from $1,300 to $2,000, doing both port and 
starboard sides. I’ve told him I will either repair the rods or sell the boat 
with disclosure, but will not ignore the problem.



  My dilemma is the usual one, how long do I continue to put money into an 
older boat, especially as I’m 75. However I’d rather sell the boat because I 
can no longer sail it than because I can no longer afford it! Gives me a lot of 
pleasure and keeps me active and motivated.



  Anyway, I wonder if anyone has any advice to offer, would appreciate the 
feed-back.



--


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Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Only if it’s lit and loaded. 

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On Jun 2, 2015, at 07:31, D Harben via CnC-List  wrote:

On Jun 2, 2015, at 9:58 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

> 
> What kind of barbeque? I think a Weber with side burner will do okay in a 
> weedy bottom if the top opens. :)
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> At 10:04 PM 01/06/2015, you wrote:
>> This is why I was asking what kind of anchor it was. I had a backyard-built 
>> plow anchor on Shift when we bought her, the proportions were all wrong and 
>> it held like a castoff barbecue. Design matters. 
>> 
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>> On 1 June 2015 at 21:42, Russ & Melody via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> Hi Dwight,
>> 
>> In my reply to Joe I mentioned having but not using a Bruce Lee... that is 
>> what a Chinese knock-off is known as around here. Kinda cute, get it? Bruce 
>> Lee, the Chinese  character? 
>> 
>> Anyhow, the Bruce Lee is a cast version of the original anchor, which was 
>> forged steel.
>> check post #28
>> http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?162068-Bruce-Anchors 
>> 
>> 

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Stus-List Stus List - Annapolis to Newport Race

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I would like to wish Joel, Jake and crew fair winds for the Annapolis to
Newport Race that starts on Thursday.  Race tracking is available at
http://yb.tl/a2n2015.


Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT
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Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[D Harben via CnC-List]

Data driven evidence suggests that a knockdown can separate the elements of a 
rail BBQ. Use of said BBQ does work as a sea anchor bit may drag in mud. 

D

> On Jun 2, 2015, at 9:58 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> What kind of barbeque? I think a Weber with side burner will do okay in a 
> weedy bottom if the top opens. :)
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> At 10:04 PM 01/06/2015, you wrote:
>> This is why I was asking what kind of anchor it was. I had a backyard-built 
>> plow anchor on Shift when we bought her, the proportions were all wrong and 
>> it held like a castoff barbecue. Design matters. 
>> 
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>> On 1 June 2015 at 21:42, Russ & Melody via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Hi Dwight,
>> 
>> In my reply to Joe I mentioned having but not using a Bruce Lee... that is 
>> what a Chinese knock-off is known as around here. Kinda cute, get it? Bruce 
>> Lee, the Chinese  character? 
>> 
>> Anyhow, the Bruce Lee is a cast version of the original anchor, which was 
>> forged steel.
>> check post #28
>> http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?162068-Bruce-Anchors
>> Bear in mind that the above is small anchor and cast steel is repairable, 
>> you just need to recover the pieces. :)
>> 
>> Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
>> Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35 mk-1
>> 
>> At 07:24 AM 01/06/2015, you wrote:
>>> and pay attention to how you set the anchor...I mean back off hard on it to 
>>> make sure it is set well and if you can use at least 7 to 1 rode to 
>>> depth...I use a 15KG Bruce style knock off with about 40 feet of 5/16 high 
>>> tensile chain as my main hook and I carry my 35 lb CQR and a large Danforth 
>>> complete with rodes under the vee berth as spare...I have had very good 
>>> experiences on the Bruce style anchor...a lot depends on the type of bottom 
>>> and the set as far as holding power goes
>>> 
>>> Dwight Veinot
>>> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>>> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Mon, Jun 1, 2015 at 3:09 AM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Joe, for what you describe you are planning on doing, that anchor should do 
>>> just fine. If you think you may be possibly caught needing more secure 
>>> footing, there are several recently introduced anchors that may serve you 
>>> better; Rocna etc, but at considerably more cost. As others are pointing 
>>> out, more weight means more security and the more chain in the rode, the 
>>> better the anchor will perform.
>>> You might also consider installing a windlass as, unless you are a built 
>>> like a windlass, manually hauling bigger anchors and more chain can be a 
>>> real slog.
>>>  I used a 15 kg. Bruce with 150â€â„„¢ of 5/16†chain backed by 200’ 
>>> â„¢ of â… â€ nylon rode with a Lofrans windlass on mn my LF38 for the 17 
>>> years I owned her and never had a problem.
>>> 
>>> Rich Knowles
>>> Nanaimo, BC
>>> INDIGO LF38
>>> Boatless!
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On May 31, 2015, at 22:04, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
 What size anchor do I need for my 38?  I want to put a plow anchor on a 
 roller and found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on the photo 
 album that says that would be more than enough but that chart seems to be 
 the exception.  We are in Lake Erie and our only real use would be for 
 an afternoon of swimming and occasional overnight in a very protected 
 bay. 
 Thanks
 Joe
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Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

What kind of barbeque? I think a Weber with side 
burner will do okay in a weedy bottom if the top opens. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:04 PM 01/06/2015, you wrote:
This is why I was asking what kind of anchor it 
was. I had a backyard-built plow anchor on Shift 
when we bought her, the proportions were all 
wrong and it held like a castoff barbecue. Design matters.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 1 June 2015 at 21:42, Russ & Melody via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Dwight,

In my reply to Joe I mentioned having but not 
using a Bruce Lee... that is what a Chinese 
knock-off is known as around here. Kinda cute, 
get it? Bruce Lee, the Chinese  character?


Anyhow, the Bruce Lee is a cast version of the 
original anchor, which was forged steel.

check post #28
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?162068-Bruce-Anchors
Bear in mind that the above is small anchor and 
cast steel is repairable, you just need to recover the pieces. :)


        Cheers, Russ
        Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:24 AM 01/06/2015, you wrote:
and pay attention to how you set the anchor...I 
mean back off hard on it to make sure it is set 
well and if you can use at least 7 to 1 rode to 
depth...I use a 15KG Bruce style knock off with 
about 40 feet of 5/16 high tensile chain as my 
main hook and I carry my 35 lb CQR and a large 
Danforth complete with rodes under the vee 
berth as spare...I have had very good 
experiences on the Bruce style anchor...a lot 
depends on the type of bottom and the set as far as holding power goes


Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Mon, Jun 1, 2015 at 3:09 AM, Knowles Rich 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Joe, for what you describe you are planning on 
doing, that anchor should do just fine. If you 
think you may be possibly caught needing more 
secure footing, there are several recently 
introduced anchors that may serve you better; 
Rocna etc, but at considerably more cost. As 
others are pointing out, more weight means more 
security and the more chain in the rode, the better the anchor will perform.
You might also consider installing a windlass 
as, unless you are a built like a windlass, 
manually hauling bigger anchors and more chain can be a real slog.
 I used a 15 kg. Bruce with 150â€â„„¢ of 
5/16†chain backed by 200’ ™ of â… â€ 
nylon rode with a Lofrans windlass on mn my 
LF38 for the 17 years I owned her and never had a problem.


Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!




On May 31, 2015, at 22:04, Russ & Melody via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


What size anchor do I need for my 38?  I 
want to put a plow anchor on a roller and 
found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a 
chart on the photo album that says that would 
be more than enough but that chart seems to be 
the exception.  We are in Lake Erie and our 
only real use would be for an afternoon of 
swimming and occasional overnight in a very protected bay.Â

Thanks
Joe


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