Re: Stus-List Cruising/max speed for 1980 C&C 32

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

My 1980 32 is hull #59 ... I have an atomic 4 so different beast but I can
cruise six plus knots at pretty low RPM. Two blade fixed, no idea as to
size.

Steve
Suhana, C&C32
Toronto


On Wed, Jun 24, 2015 at 12:54 AM, Hans-Erik Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've recently purchased a 1980 C&C 32 with a yanmar 2GM20F 18 hp diesel.
> We're having some propeller/power issues, and I'm wondering if anyone here
> would have idea of what the approx. cruising/max speed should be for this
> boat and engine. I'getting 5.9 kts at full throttle (3400 rpm) and 5.3 kts
> knots at 2800 rpm. Is this reasonable, or cause for concern?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
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Stus-List Cruising/max speed for 1980 C&C 32

[Hans-Erik Andersen via CnC-List]

I've recently purchased a 1980 C&C 32 with a yanmar 2GM20F 18 hp diesel. We're 
having some propeller/power issues, and I'm wondering if anyone here would have 
idea of what the approx. cruising/max speed should be for this boat and engine. 
I'getting 5.9 kts at full throttle (3400 rpm) and 5.3 kts knots at 2800 rpm. Is 
this reasonable, or cause for concern?

Thanks!

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Interior teak finish

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

You wrote:

I use lard. If we cook bacon on the boat, I will also smear some bacon fat
around the bottom of the bulkheads to protect them.


Now that's not fair.  Dude, somebody might actually try that.  It will 
smell.


Here's the real scoop.  I recently had hernia surgery, and the surgeon 
also specializes in weight reduction gastric stuff and liposuction.  He 
cut me a deal on human lipostuff, which is the best thing to smear all 
over the interior teak of your boat.


Oh, never mind...

Actually, I might be the only person who could write a 10 minute comedy 
routine about hernia surgery.  For now, I'll just say that from now on 
I'll be paying someone to replace my batteries. Getting old sucks.


Wal
currently still lying in La Cruz


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Re: Stus-List Interior teak finish

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I use lard. If we cook bacon on the boat, I will also smear some bacon fat
around the bottom of the bulkheads to protect them.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 23 June 2015 at 15:31, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Confirm it was oil on a 1980 30-1.
> I'm slowly converting the oil to Epifanes "hand rubbed" varnish finish -
> cleans up better.
> If you're refinishing or replacing teak, A lister contributed a very good
> stain match years ago - I wish I'd saved his name to credit his trial and
> error efforts, but the
> recipe is
>
> Minwax Wood Finish (Stain)1 part Provincial (211)  2 parts
> Golden Pecan (245)2 parts Colonial Maple (223)
>
> I've sanded dinged, worn, or stained solid teak bits, and very very
> carefully very fine sanded some of the teak veneer panels, then wiped on
> this stain mix, let stand a few minutes, and wiped off. The results look
> like an EXACT color match on my boat. I now keep a can of this mix made up
> for all touch up work inside.
>
> Nate
>
> "Sarah Jean"
> 1980 30-1
> relocated and finally launched today and on a bouy in the cove, South Lake
> St. Croix,
> Hudson WI
>
> 1994 Tartan 31 - yet to be re-named
> Siskiwit Bay Marina
> Lake Superior
> Cornucopia WI
>
> On Tue, Jun 23, 2015 at 5:10 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> FWIW, on my 1982 37’ it was oiled. No varnish. I continued to use teak
>> oil.
>>
>> Best,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>>
>> On Jun 23, 2015, at 3:42 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Does anyone know what C &C used to finish the interior teak in the 80's.
>> Jerry C&C 27mk V.  J &J.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
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Re: Stus-List Marion Bermuda race

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

If I'm reading the race tracker correctly, it looks like Dave has a first in 
Class   C!
 

Richard
1985 C&C ; Ohio River; mile 596
Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Sent: Wed, Jun 17, 2015 1:43 pm
Subject: Stus-List Marion Bermuda race


 
Our own David Risch is doing the race in his C&C 40, Corsair.  Start is in less 
than 2 days!  
   
  
  
Track the fleet athttp://yb.tl/mb2015.   
   

   
   
Good luck David!
   
--
   
Joel 
301 541 8551   
   
 
 

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Re: Stus-List Queens Cup

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Sorry to hear it.  I will try to uphold the CnC name.  Leaving in the morning 
for Milwaukee and the Q Cup.
Bill Walker
Evening Star
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi
 




Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 schiller via CnC-List  wrote:

Well, the gods are not looking kindly on us.  Glenn's boat ('81 C&C-36) had a 
head gasket fail and on disassembly the mechanic also found the head cracked.  
Glenn tried hard, he found a re manufactured head and got it to White Lake 
today but there is still more work that needs to be done and it can't be 
completed in time for us to go across to Milwaukee and still be awake to race 
back to South Haven.  Oh well, we'll try again. 

I tried to blame the list for all of the discussion lately of blown head 
gaskets and replacement engines. 

Neil Schiller 
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7 
(C&C 35, Mark I) 
"Corsair" 

On 6/18/2015 9:32 PM, schiller via CnC-List wrote: 

No.  I am slipped in South Haven so I'll get off there.  I'm sure that Glenn 
and crew will be ready to get back home Sunday (after resting in South Haven on 
Saturday). 

Neil Schiller 
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7 
(C&C 35, Mark I) 
"Corsair" 
South Haven, Mi 

On 6/17/2015 4:06 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote: 

Will you be doing the round-the-buoys race in Grand Haven next day? 

If they're still doing it. 

That was fun as well. 

Ron 

Wild Cheri 

C&C 30-1 

STL 



From: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
Cc: Jim Reinardy  
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2015 2:07 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Marion Bermuda race


#yiv5942686016 #yiv5942686016 -- p.yiv5942686016MsoListParagraph, 
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 #yiv5942686016 

Neil, 


Best of luck to you and Glenn.  The Queen’s Cup can be a very fun race with 
good conditions.  I have a lot of friends from this side of the lake that do it 
every year. 


Jim Reinardy 

C&C 30-2 “Firewater” 

Milwaukee, WI 


Sent from Windows Mail 




From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: ‎Wednesday‎, ‎June‎ ‎17‎, ‎2015 ‎1‎:‎53‎ ‎PM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Cc: schiller 


Our own Glenn Gambel will be sailing his C&C 36 in the Queens Cup (Milwaukee to 
South Haven, Mi) next week.  I am going to crew for him (Not much rail meat 
since I lost 75 lbs, but I can still grind a winch).  We leave White Lake, Mi 
Tuesday night for an overnight across the lake and then race back to South 
Haven leaving Friday night.



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Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow - 2GM20F

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I stopped using teflon tape in the 80's after finding the threads of tape 
caught inside valves downstream. I saw many failures when teflon tape or teflon 
pipe dope was used on diesel fuel lines. Some pipe dopes (read the directions) 
require the joint sit for 24 hrs before charging the system w fuel. 

I recommend Hercules Megalok, it's a light blue pipe dope that works on 
everything, oil, gasoline, diesel fuel, water, oxygen, natural gas, propane, 
etc, without waiting. I've been using the same can of dope for so long, I can't 
read the label. Good stuff. 

http://www.oatey.com/doc/megaloc.pdf 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List"  
To: "C&C List"  
Cc: "Josh Muckley"  
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2015 10:37:48 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow - 2GM20F 



Yeah maybe it was short sided to use tape but the point was to "lubricate" the 
threads and allow a tight enough connection. It is in fact tight enough because 
my air filter now stays clean. Like i said, I may play hell getting it apart 
should the need arise. As for fumes, i haven't noticed any 

Josh 
On Jun 23, 2015 7:40 AM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



I know That teflon tape is not used in fuel oil heating system lines because 
the fuel dissolves teflon tape. 

Bill Bina 

On 6/23/2015 12:38 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote: 



Hi Josh, 

Good point made regarding tapered thread sealing qualities and the lube aids to 
obtaining a good mechanical seal. 

I'm a little dismayed that you used Teflon tape on the exhaust fittings. This 
is probably the worst application for the product (second being any system with 
a pump in it). It is best used in domestic water situations. 

At about 660 degrees F Teflon tape decomposes and emits a toxic fume. Fatal to 
birds in the home when the frying pan gets too hot and probably not good for 
humans in a small space either. 

I whole heartedly support the use of high temp anti-seize. It might stink a wee 
bit on the first couple of runs but it probably won't harm you. 

Cheers, Russ 
Sweet 35 mk-1 

At 04:08 AM 22/06/2015, you wrote: 



Most if not all pipe dopes and Teflon tape sealers are not really there to 
"seal" the threads of a NPT fitting from leaking. They are simply there to 
lubricate the threads so a sufficiently tight connection can be made. The 
lubricant may also help in disassembly. By design the mechanical compression 
as a result of the tapered threads is what is actually supposed to prevents 
leaks. Yes, you can use all manner of sealants which may "help" but a proper 
NPT connection shouldn't need it. 

That being said, I used Teflon tape on my exhaust (3GM35F). Just 2 wraps. I 
may have difficulty getting the joint apart, who knows. I also used a bench 
vice to provide enough counter-torque. 

As a suggestion I would give high temp anti-seaze a try. It is usually copper 
colored and most auto parts stores should carry it. If you've ever replaced an 
O2 sensor they include a small tube. 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 






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Re: Stus-List Interior teak finish

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Confirm it was oil on a 1980 30-1.
I'm slowly converting the oil to Epifanes "hand rubbed" varnish finish -
cleans up better.
If you're refinishing or replacing teak, A lister contributed a very good
stain match years ago - I wish I'd saved his name to credit his trial and
error efforts, but the
recipe is

Minwax Wood Finish (Stain)1 part Provincial (211)  2 parts
Golden Pecan (245)2 parts Colonial Maple (223)

I've sanded dinged, worn, or stained solid teak bits, and very very
carefully very fine sanded some of the teak veneer panels, then wiped on
this stain mix, let stand a few minutes, and wiped off. The results look
like an EXACT color match on my boat. I now keep a can of this mix made up
for all touch up work inside.

Nate

"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1
relocated and finally launched today and on a bouy in the cove, South Lake
St. Croix,
Hudson WI

1994 Tartan 31 - yet to be re-named
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior
Cornucopia WI

On Tue, Jun 23, 2015 at 5:10 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> FWIW, on my 1982 37’ it was oiled. No varnish. I continued to use teak oil.
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Jun 23, 2015, at 3:42 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know what C &C used to finish the interior teak in the 80's.
> Jerry C&C 27mk V.  J &J.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Interior teak finish

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

FWIW, on my 1982 37’ it was oiled. No varnish. I continued to use teak oil.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Jun 23, 2015, at 3:42 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know what C &C used to finish the interior teak in the 80's.  
> Jerry C&C 27mk V.  J &J.  
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Queens Cup

[schiller via CnC-List]

Well, the gods are not looking kindly on us. Glenn's boat ('81 C&C-36) 
had a head gasket fail and on disassembly the mechanic also found the 
head cracked.  Glenn tried hard, he found a re manufactured head and got 
it to White Lake today but there is still more work that needs to be 
done and it can't be completed in time for us to go across to Milwaukee 
and still be awake to race back to South Haven.  Oh well, we'll try again.


I tried to blame the list for all of the discussion lately of blown head 
gaskets and replacement engines.


Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"

On 6/18/2015 9:32 PM, schiller via CnC-List wrote:
No.  I am slipped in South Haven so I'll get off there.  I'm sure that 
Glenn and crew will be ready to get back home Sunday (after resting in 
South Haven on Saturday).


Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
South Haven, Mi

On 6/17/2015 4:06 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:

Will you be doing the round-the-buoys race in Grand Haven next day?
If they're still doing it.
That was fun as well.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL



*From:* Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
*To:* Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
*Cc:* Jim Reinardy 
*Sent:* Wednesday, June 17, 2015 2:07 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Marion Bermuda race

Neil,

Best of luck to you and Glenn.  The Queen’s Cup can be a very fun 
race with good conditions.  I have a lot of friends from this side of 
the lake that do it every year.


Jim Reinardy
C&C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

Sent from Windows Mail



*From:* Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
*Sent:* ‎Wednesday‎, ‎June‎ ‎17‎, ‎2015 ‎1‎:‎53‎ ‎PM
*To:* Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
*Cc:* schiller 

Our own Glenn Gambel will be sailing his C&C 36 in the Queens Cup 
(Milwaukee to South Haven, Mi) next week.  I am going to crew for him 
(Not much rail meat since I lost 75 lbs, but I can still grind a 
winch).  We leave White Lake, Mi Tuesday night for an overnight 
across the lake and then race back to South Haven leaving Friday night.




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Re: Stus-List Main sail slides

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I have it on my boat and am very impressed.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Jun 23, 2015, at 17:09, Wally Bryant via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Petar wrote:
>> Has anyone improved their mainsail track using something like this
>> 
>> http://www.sailcare.com/sail-track-system.shtml
> 
> Petar - I've heard nothing but good things about the Tides marina track, and 
> wish I'd put it on Stella Blue.  I was in the middle of a total rig rebuild, 
> though, and didn't want to spend the money. Instead, I went with this: 
>   It works for me, but 
> I'm tall enough to reach.  They make the main stack up pretty high.
> 
> Wal
> 
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Re: Stus-List Main sail slides

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Petar wrote:

Has anyone improved their mainsail track using something like this

http://www.sailcare.com/sail-track-system.shtml


Petar - I've heard nothing but good things about the Tides marina track, 
and wish I'd put it on Stella Blue.  I was in the middle of a total rig 
rebuild, though, and didn't want to spend the money. Instead, I went 
with this:   It 
works for me, but I'm tall enough to reach.  They make the main stack up 
pretty high.


Wal

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Re: Stus-List Pacific Sea stories / Offshore fishing tips?

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Yup.  My best results are with squid lures of the Mexican flag colors.  
Red White Green.  No kidding. I use a hand line with 100 pound test.  
It's not fair, but I'm not fishing for sport.


Wal

Fred wrote:

The mahi seem to favor neon-green squid lures.  I think we had a 40-lb nylon 
hand line out with a stainless leader and the squid.



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Re: Stus-List GAFF - Offshore fishing tips?

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I have one of these things:   It's 
actually a gaff for spear fishing, designed to be clipped to your weight 
belt or BCD.  When fishing under way, it's great because you can slip 
the gaff through the gills and the fish is secure while you remove the 
hook while still leaning over the stern.  You can also just let it go, 
and drag the fish behind the boat while dealing with sails or other 
important things.  As a single hander, I am used to being busy with the 
boat when suddenly a monster Dorado hits.


Also, I'll just pull the fish up to the stern and slash the gills with a 
knife, then let the fish bleed out while dragging behind the boat.  It 
minimizes bloody mess in the cockpit.


Wal


you wrote:

The gaff or winch handle is dangerous and messy on board.



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Re: Stus-List Main sail slides

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

McLube on the slides on occasion makes a big difference. I don't need a
wench but the admiral helps out!
Joel

On Tuesday, June 23, 2015, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I no longer need a wench to get the main up.
>
>
> Please let that not be a typo.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 23, 2015, at 4:25 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com
>  via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>  With my new Doyle main I went with the Tides Tuff track. Two words. Love
> It. I no longer need a wench to get the main up.
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> svPegasus
> LF38
> just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Main sail slides

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

> I no longer need a wench to get the main up. 

Please let that not be a typo. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













> On Jun 23, 2015, at 4:25 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> With my new Doyle main I went with the Tides Tuff track. Two words. Love It. 
> I no longer need a wench to get the main up. 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy
> svPegasus
> LF38
> just west of Ballard, WA.

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Re: Stus-List Main sail slides

[svpegasus38]

With my new Doyle main I went with the Tides Tuff track. Two words. Love 
It. I no longer need a wench to get the main up. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.


-- Original message--From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-ListDate: Tue, Jun 
23, 2015 09:38To: C&CList;Cc: Jack Fitzgerald;Subject:Re: Stus-List Main sail 
slidesThe Tides Marine strong track was about the best money that I have spent 
Honey's upgrades since 1975. 
Jack FitzgeraldHONEY
US12788C&C 39 TM

*PLEASE REMOVE honeys...@aol.com FROM YOUR ADDRESS BOOK AND IMMEDIATELY ADD 
j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com

On Tue, Jun 23, 2015 at 12:26 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I’ve been having issues with my mainsail.  It seems the slides are bucking in 
the mast track. Part of it is due to warn track, and part due to new(second 
hand)main sail having full battens.  I ended up ripping the luff cord trying to 
bring the main down in a blow last year, and the patch job gave way on my first 
sail this year.   My slides are round barrel slug attached to grommets on the 
luff via stainless shackles.  Jiffy reefing makes things worse and so does the 
fact that I never converted the masthead pulley after changing wire rope to 
3/8” halyard.   Has anyone improved their mainsail track using something like 
this http://www.sailcare.com/sail-track-system.shtml  Petar HorvaticSundowner76 
C&C 38MkIINewport, RI   From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2015 10:38 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow - 2GM20F Yeah maybe it was short sided to 
use tape but the point was to "lubricate"  the threads and allow a tight enough 
connection.  It is in fact tight enough because my air filter now stays clean.  
Like i said, I may play hell getting it apart should the need arise.  As for 
fumes, i haven't noticed any JoshOn Jun 23, 2015 7:40 AM, "Bill Bina - 
gmail via CnC-List"  wrote:I know That teflon tape is 
not used in fuel oil heating system lines because the fuel dissolves teflon 
tape.

Bill BinaOn 6/23/2015 12:38 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:
Hi Josh,

Good point made regarding tapered thread sealing qualities and the lube aids to 
obtaining a good mechanical seal.

I'm a little dismayed that you used Teflon tape on the exhaust fittings. This 
is probably the worst application for the product (second being any system with 
a pump in it). It is best used in domestic water situations. 

At about 660 degrees F Teflon tape decomposes and emits a toxic fume. Fatal to 
birds in the home when the frying pan gets too hot and probably not good for 
humans in a small space either. 

I whole heartedly support the use of high temp anti-seize. It might stink a wee 
bit on the first couple of runs but it probably won't harm you. 

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 04:08 AM 22/06/2015, you wrote:


Most if not all pipe dopes and Teflon tape sealers are not really there to 
"seal" the threads of a NPT fitting from leaking.  They are simply there to 
lubricate the threads so a sufficiently tight connection can be made.  The 
lubricant may also help in disassembly.  By design the mechanical compression 
as a result of the tapered threads is what is actually supposed to prevents 
leaks.  Yes, you can use all manner of sealants which may "help" but a proper 
NPT connection shouldn't need it. 

That being said, I used Teflon tape on my exhaust (3GM35F).  Just 2 wraps.  I 
may have difficulty getting the joint apart, who knows.  I also used a bench 
vice to provide enough counter-torque.

As a suggestion I would give high temp anti-seaze a try.  It is usually copper 
colored and most auto parts stores should carry it.  If you've ever replaced 
an O2 sensor they include a small tube.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 
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Stus-List Interior teak finish

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Does anyone know what C &C used to finish the interior teak in the 80's.  Jerry 
C&C 27mk V.  J &J.  

Sent from my iPhone___

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Stus-List main sail

[Al Goodman via CnC-List]

I have converted my main sail to the strong system.  It has proven to be
well worth it.  It is now very easy to raise and lower the track.

 

Al Goodman

C&C 35 MKII 

Skylark

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Re: Stus-List Main sail slides

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I installed a Tides Marine Strong Track on my 38 about a decade ago. I am quite 
satisfied with it. My main has type D slides for the 5 full battens and either 
F or H slides for the other slides. When new, I could raise the sail by hand to 
within about 5 feet of the top before putting the line on a winch. And the sail 
came down like the blade on a guillotine.

 

Still comes down quickly and needs someone to tend the drop, and still goes up 
easy enough but not as easily as when new.

 

That’s probably my fault. Like a lot of guys I tend not to read the 
instructions until I run into a problem. Tides marine tells you not to use 
lubricants on the track. Wash it out with dish detergent and fresh water. 
Lubricants, silicone, etc. either attach the surface of the plastic or allow 
dirt to build up in the track. Which degrades performance. Or so the tech guy 
at Tides Marine said when I called him last year.

 

Shop around before you purchase the system. And talk to your sailmaker about 
what slides you will need to have installed on the sail. The track system is 
available from a number of suppliers – including direct order from the 
manufacturer – so look for the best price.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar 
Horvatic via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2015 12:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Petar Horvatic
Subject: Stus-List Main sail slides

 

I’ve been having issues with my mainsail.  It seems the slides are bucking in 
the mast track. 

Part of it is due to warn track, and part due to new(second hand)main sail 
having full battens.  I ended up ripping the luff cord trying to bring the main 
down in a blow last year, and the patch job gave way on my first sail this 
year.   

My slides are round barrel slug attached to grommets on the luff via stainless 
shackles.  Jiffy reefing makes things worse and so does the fact that I never 
converted the masthead pulley after changing wire rope to 3/8” halyard.  

 

Has anyone improved their mainsail track using something like this 

http://www.sailcare.com/sail-track-system.shtml

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2015 10:38 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow - 2GM20F

 

Yeah maybe it was short sided to use tape but the point was to "lubricate"  the 
threads and allow a tight enough connection.  It is in fact tight enough 
because my air filter now stays clean.  Like i said, I may play hell getting it 
apart should the need arise.  As for fumes, i haven't noticed any 

Josh

On Jun 23, 2015 7:40 AM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I know That teflon tape is not used in fuel oil heating system lines because 
the fuel dissolves teflon tape.

Bill Bina

On 6/23/2015 12:38 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Josh,

Good point made regarding tapered thread sealing qualities and the lube aids to 
obtaining a good mechanical seal.

I'm a little dismayed that you used Teflon tape on the exhaust fittings. This 
is probably the worst application for the product (second being any system with 
a pump in it). It is best used in domestic water situations. 

At about 660 degrees F Teflon tape decomposes and emits a toxic fume. Fatal to 
birds in the home when the frying pan gets too hot and probably not good for 
humans in a small space either. 

I whole heartedly support the use of high temp anti-seize. It might stink a wee 
bit on the first couple of runs but it probably won't harm you. 

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 04:08 AM 22/06/2015, you wrote:



Most if not all pipe dopes and Teflon tape sealers are not really there to 
"seal" the threads of a NPT fitting from leaking.  They are simply there to 
lubricate the threads so a sufficiently tight connection can be made.  The 
lubricant may also help in disassembly.  By design the mechanical compression 
as a result of the tapered threads is what is actually supposed to prevents 
leaks.  Yes, you can use all manner of sealants which may "help" but a proper 
NPT connection shouldn't need it. 

That being said, I used Teflon tape on my exhaust (3GM35F).  Just 2 wraps.  I 
may have difficulty getting the joint apart, who knows.  I also used a bench 
vice to provide enough counter-torque.

As a suggestion I would give high temp anti-seaze a try.  It is usually copper 
colored and most auto parts stores should carry it.  If you've ever replaced 
an O2 sensor they include a small tube.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

 


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Re: Stus-List Main sail slides

[Bob McLaughlin via CnC-List]

Indeed. The Tides Marine track works very well and is very easy to install 
(though you do need to use their slides). 

Bob McLaughlin
C&C 110 "Blue Devil"

> On Jun 23, 2015, at 12:39 PM, RAYMOND SHIBE via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Peter,
> Before Tides Marine Sail track I had to winch the sail all the way. Now, 
> after installing the sail track I am able to hoist to within 8-10 inches of 
> full hoist by hand. 
> Ray Shibe
> 1984 C&C 41
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jun 23, 2015 at 12:26 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> I’ve been having issues with my mainsail.  It seems the slides are bucking in 
> the mast track.
> 
> Part of it is due to warn track, and part due to new(second hand)main sail 
> having full battens.  I ended up ripping the luff cord trying to bring the 
> main down in a blow last year, and the patch job gave way on my first sail 
> this year.   
> 
> My slides are round barrel slug attached to grommets on the luff via 
> stainless shackles.  Jiffy reefing makes things worse and so does the fact 
> that I never converted the masthead pulley after changing wire rope to 3/8” 
> halyard. 
> 
>  
> 
> Has anyone improved their mainsail track using something like this
> 
> http://www.sailcare.com/sail-track-system.shtml
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Petar Horvatic
> 
> Sundowner
> 
> 76 C&C 38MkII
> 
> Newport, RI
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
> Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2015 10:38 AM
> To: C&C List
> Cc: Josh Muckley
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow - 2GM20F
> 
>  
> 
> Yeah maybe it was short sided to use tape but the point was to "lubricate"  
> the threads and allow a tight enough connection.  It is in fact tight enough 
> because my air filter now stays clean.  Like i said, I may play hell getting 
> it apart should the need arise.  As for fumes, i haven't noticed any
> 
> Josh
> 
> On Jun 23, 2015 7:40 AM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> I know That teflon tape is not used in fuel oil heating system lines because 
> the fuel dissolves teflon tape.
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> On 6/23/2015 12:38 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Josh,
> 
> Good point made regarding tapered thread sealing qualities and the lube aids 
> to obtaining a good mechanical seal.
> 
> I'm a little dismayed that you used Teflon tape on the exhaust fittings. This 
> is probably the worst application for the product (second being any system 
> with a pump in it). It is best used in domestic water situations. 
> 
> At about 660 degrees F Teflon tape decomposes and emits a toxic fume. Fatal 
> to birds in the home when the frying pan gets too hot and probably not good 
> for humans in a small space either. 
> 
> I whole heartedly support the use of high temp anti-seize. It might stink a 
> wee bit on the first couple of runs but it probably won't harm you. 
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> At 04:08 AM 22/06/2015, you wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Most if not all pipe dopes and Teflon tape sealers are not really there to 
> "seal" the threads of a NPT fitting from leaking.  They are simply there to 
> lubricate the threads so a sufficiently tight connection can be made.  The 
> lubricant may also help in disassembly.  By design the mechanical 
> compression as a result of the tapered threads is what is actually supposed 
> to prevents leaks.  Yes, you can use all manner of sealants which may "help" 
> but a proper NPT connection shouldn't need it. 
> 
> That being said, I used Teflon tape on my exhaust (3GM35F).  Just 2 wraps.  
> I may have difficulty getting the joint apart, who knows.  I also used a 
> bench vice to provide enough counter-torque.
> 
> As a suggestion I would give high temp anti-seaze a try.  It is usually 
> copper colored and most auto parts stores should carry it.  If you've ever 
> replaced an O2 sensor they include a small tube.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>  
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 
> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Marion Bermuda Race

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Fred.
I knew I could count on you!

95 degrees here.  Has the snow melted there?

On Tue, Jun 23, 2015 at 8:21 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Don't worry -- we'll just toss you overboard...   :^)
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
>
>
> > On Jun 22, 2015, at 5:17 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Note to crew - if I drop dead on board I expect you to finish the race!
> >
> > Joel
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Main sail slides

[RAYMOND SHIBE via CnC-List]

Peter,
Before Tides Marine Sail track I had to winch the sail all the way. Now, 
after installing the sail track I am able to hoist to within 8-10 inches 
of full hoist by hand. 

Ray Shibe
1984 C&C 41

On Tue, Jun 23, 2015 at 12:26 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List wrote:

I’ve been having issues with my mainsail.  It seems the slides are 
bucking in the mast track.
Part of it is due to warn track, and part due to new(second hand)main 
sail having full battens.  I ended up ripping the luff cord trying to 
bring the main down in a blow last year, and the patch job gave way on 
my first sail this year.   
My slides are round barrel slug attached to grommets on the luff via 
stainless shackles.  Jiffy reefing makes things worse and so does the 
fact that I never converted the masthead pulley after changing wire rope 
to 3/8” halyard. 

 
Has anyone improved their mainsail track using something like this
http://www.sailcare.com/sail-track-system.shtml 


 
 
Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C&C 38MkII
Newport, RI
 
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
Muckley via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2015 10:38 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow - 2GM20F
 
Yeah maybe it was short sided to use tape but the point was to 
"lubricate"  the threads and allow a tight enough connection.  It is in 
fact tight enough because my air filter now stays clean.  Like i said, I 
may play hell getting it apart should the need arise.  As for fumes, i 
haven't noticed any

Josh
On Jun 23, 2015 7:40 AM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:
I know That teflon tape is not used in fuel oil heating system lines 
because the fuel dissolves teflon tape.

Bill Bina
On 6/23/2015 12:38 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Josh,
Good point made regarding tapered thread sealing qualities and the lube 
aids to obtaining a good mechanical seal.
I'm a little dismayed that you used Teflon tape on the exhaust fittings. 
This is probably the worst application for the product (second being any 
system with a pump in it). It is best used in domestic water situations.
At about 660 degrees F Teflon tape decomposes and emits a toxic fume. 
Fatal to birds in the home when the frying pan gets too hot and probably 
not good for humans in a small space either.
I whole heartedly support the use of high temp anti-seize. It might 
stink a wee bit on the first couple of runs but it probably won't harm 
you.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
At 04:08 AM 22/06/2015, you wrote:

Most if not all pipe dopes and Teflon tape sealers are not really there 
to "seal" the threads of a NPT fitting from leaking.  They are simply 
there to lubricate the threads so a sufficiently tight connection can be 
made.  The lubricant may also help in disassembly.  By design the 
mechanical compression as a result of the tapered threads is what is 
actually supposed to prevents leaks.  Yes, you can use all manner of 
sealants which may "help" but a proper NPT connection shouldn't need 
it.Â
That being said, I used Teflon tape on my exhaust (3GM35F).  Just 2 
wraps.  I may have difficulty getting the joint apart, who knows.  I 
also used a bench vice to provide enough counter-torque.
As a suggestion I would give high temp anti-seaze a try.  It is usually 
copper colored and most auto parts stores should carry it.  If you've 
ever replaced an O2 sensor they include a small tube.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
 

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Re: Stus-List Main sail slides

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The Tides Marine Strong Track was a great upgrade. When I release the 
halyard, the main comes down as if it is not even attached to the mast. 
I would recommend ordering direct from the maker, though, as that way 
you get tech support from the people that have seen it all, and know 
what to do. I don't think you save any money or time by going through a 
middleman.


https://www.tidesmarine.com/

Bill Bina

On 6/23/2015 12:37 PM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List wrote:
The Tides Marine strong track was about the best money that I have 
spent Honey's upgrades since 1975.


Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY
US12788
C&C 39 TM


**PLEASE REMOVE honeys...@aol.com  FROM YOUR 
ADDRESS BOOK AND IMMEDIATELY ADD j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com 
*



On Tue, Jun 23, 2015 at 12:26 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I’ve been having issues with my mainsail.  It seems the slides are
bucking in the mast track.

Part of it is due to warn track, and part due to new(second
hand)main sail having full battens.  I ended up ripping the luff
cord trying to bring the main down in a blow last year, and the
patch job gave way on my first sail this year.

My slides are round barrel slug attached to grommets on the luff
via stainless shackles.  Jiffy reefing makes things worse and so
does the fact that I never converted the masthead pulley after
changing wire rope to 3/8” halyard.

Has anyone improved their mainsail track using something like this

http://www.sailcare.com/sail-track-system.shtml

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI




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Re: Stus-List Main sail slides

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

The Tides Marine strong track was about the best money that I have spent
Honey's upgrades since 1975.

Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY
US12788
C&C 39 TM


**PLEASE REMOVE honeys...@aol.com  FROM YOUR ADDRESS
BOOK AND IMMEDIATELY ADD j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com
*


On Tue, Jun 23, 2015 at 12:26 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’ve been having issues with my mainsail.  It seems the slides are bucking
> in the mast track.
>
> Part of it is due to warn track, and part due to new(second hand)main sail
> having full battens.  I ended up ripping the luff cord trying to bring the
> main down in a blow last year, and the patch job gave way on my first sail
> this year.
>
> My slides are round barrel slug attached to grommets on the luff via
> stainless shackles.  Jiffy reefing makes things worse and so does the fact
> that I never converted the masthead pulley after changing wire rope to 3/8”
> halyard.
>
>
>
> Has anyone improved their mainsail track using something like this
>
> http://www.sailcare.com/sail-track-system.shtml
>
>
>
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C&C 38MkII
>
> Newport, RI
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 23, 2015 10:38 AM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow - 2GM20F
>
>
>
> Yeah maybe it was short sided to use tape but the point was to
> "lubricate"  the threads and allow a tight enough connection.  It is in
> fact tight enough because my air filter now stays clean.  Like i said, I
> may play hell getting it apart should the need arise.  As for fumes, i
> haven't noticed any
>
> Josh
>
> On Jun 23, 2015 7:40 AM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I know That teflon tape is not used in fuel oil heating system lines
> because the fuel dissolves teflon tape.
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 6/23/2015 12:38 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:
>
>
> Hi Josh,
>
> Good point made regarding tapered thread sealing qualities and the lube
> aids to obtaining a good mechanical seal.
>
> I'm a little dismayed that you used Teflon tape on the exhaust fittings.
> This is probably the worst application for the product (second being any
> system with a pump in it). It is best used in domestic water situations.
>
> At about 660 degrees F Teflon tape decomposes and emits a toxic fume.
> Fatal to birds in the home when the frying pan gets too hot and probably
> not good for humans in a small space either.
>
> I whole heartedly support the use of high temp anti-seize. It might stink
> a wee bit on the first couple of runs but it probably won't harm you.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>
> At 04:08 AM 22/06/2015, you wrote:
>
>
> Most if not all pipe dopes and Teflon tape sealers are not really there to
> "seal" the threads of a NPT fitting from leaking.  They are simply there
> to lubricate the threads so a sufficiently tight connection can be made.Â
> The lubricant may also help in disassembly.  By design the mechanical
> compression as a result of the tapered threads is what is actually supposed
> to prevents leaks.  Yes, you can use all manner of sealants which may
> "help" but a proper NPT connection shouldn't need it.Â
>
> That being said, I used Teflon tape on my exhaust (3GM35F).  Just 2
> wraps.  I may have difficulty getting the joint apart, who knows.  I also
> used a bench vice to provide enough counter-torque.
>
> As a suggestion I would give high temp anti-seaze a try.  It is usually
> copper colored and most auto parts stores should carry it.  If you've ever
> replaced an O2 sensor they include a small tube.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Main sail slides

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Yep,  when we had the new mainsail made the maker suggested the StrongTrack
system by Tides Marine.  It was also recommended by practical sailor.  The
sail goes up quite easily with only the weight of the sail causing
resistance and coming down it simply falls without help right into the sail
pack.  Worth the investment.

If in the Solomons area let me know and I'll demonstrate.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 23, 2015 12:26 PM, "Petar Horvatic via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’ve been having issues with my mainsail.  It seems the slides are bucking
> in the mast track.
>
> Part of it is due to warn track, and part due to new(second hand)main sail
> having full battens.  I ended up ripping the luff cord trying to bring the
> main down in a blow last year, and the patch job gave way on my first sail
> this year.
>
> My slides are round barrel slug attached to grommets on the luff via
> stainless shackles.  Jiffy reefing makes things worse and so does the fact
> that I never converted the masthead pulley after changing wire rope to 3/8”
> halyard.
>
>
>
> Has anyone improved their mainsail track using something like this
>
> http://www.sailcare.com/sail-track-system.shtml
>
>
>
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C&C 38MkII
>
> Newport, RI
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 23, 2015 10:38 AM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow - 2GM20F
>
>
>
> Yeah maybe it was short sided to use tape but the point was to
> "lubricate"  the threads and allow a tight enough connection.  It is in
> fact tight enough because my air filter now stays clean.  Like i said, I
> may play hell getting it apart should the need arise.  As for fumes, i
> haven't noticed any
>
> Josh
>
> On Jun 23, 2015 7:40 AM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I know That teflon tape is not used in fuel oil heating system lines
> because the fuel dissolves teflon tape.
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 6/23/2015 12:38 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:
>
>
> Hi Josh,
>
> Good point made regarding tapered thread sealing qualities and the lube
> aids to obtaining a good mechanical seal.
>
> I'm a little dismayed that you used Teflon tape on the exhaust fittings.
> This is probably the worst application for the product (second being any
> system with a pump in it). It is best used in domestic water situations.
>
> At about 660 degrees F Teflon tape decomposes and emits a toxic fume.
> Fatal to birds in the home when the frying pan gets too hot and probably
> not good for humans in a small space either.
>
> I whole heartedly support the use of high temp anti-seize. It might stink
> a wee bit on the first couple of runs but it probably won't harm you.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>
> At 04:08 AM 22/06/2015, you wrote:
>
>
> Most if not all pipe dopes and Teflon tape sealers are not really there to
> "seal" the threads of a NPT fitting from leaking.  They are simply there
> to lubricate the threads so a sufficiently tight connection can be made.Â
> The lubricant may also help in disassembly.  By design the mechanical
> compression as a result of the tapered threads is what is actually supposed
> to prevents leaks.  Yes, you can use all manner of sealants which may
> "help" but a proper NPT connection shouldn't need it.Â
>
> That being said, I used Teflon tape on my exhaust (3GM35F).  Just 2
> wraps.  I may have difficulty getting the joint apart, who knows.  I also
> used a bench vice to provide enough counter-torque.
>
> As a suggestion I would give high temp anti-seaze a try.  It is usually
> copper colored and most auto parts stores should carry it.  If you've ever
> replaced an O2 sensor they include a small tube.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Stus-List Main sail slides

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I’ve been having issues with my mainsail.  It seems the slides are bucking in 
the mast track. 

Part of it is due to warn track, and part due to new(second hand)main sail 
having full battens.  I ended up ripping the luff cord trying to bring the main 
down in a blow last year, and the patch job gave way on my first sail this 
year.   

My slides are round barrel slug attached to grommets on the luff via stainless 
shackles.  Jiffy reefing makes things worse and so does the fact that I never 
converted the masthead pulley after changing wire rope to 3/8” halyard.  

 

Has anyone improved their mainsail track using something like this 

http://www.sailcare.com/sail-track-system.shtml

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2015 10:38 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow - 2GM20F

 

Yeah maybe it was short sided to use tape but the point was to "lubricate"  the 
threads and allow a tight enough connection.  It is in fact tight enough 
because my air filter now stays clean.  Like i said, I may play hell getting it 
apart should the need arise.  As for fumes, i haven't noticed any 

Josh

On Jun 23, 2015 7:40 AM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

I know That teflon tape is not used in fuel oil heating system lines because 
the fuel dissolves teflon tape.

Bill Bina

On 6/23/2015 12:38 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Josh,

Good point made regarding tapered thread sealing qualities and the lube aids to 
obtaining a good mechanical seal.

I'm a little dismayed that you used Teflon tape on the exhaust fittings. This 
is probably the worst application for the product (second being any system with 
a pump in it). It is best used in domestic water situations. 

At about 660 degrees F Teflon tape decomposes and emits a toxic fume. Fatal to 
birds in the home when the frying pan gets too hot and probably not good for 
humans in a small space either. 

I whole heartedly support the use of high temp anti-seize. It might stink a wee 
bit on the first couple of runs but it probably won't harm you. 

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 04:08 AM 22/06/2015, you wrote:




Most if not all pipe dopes and Teflon tape sealers are not really there to 
"seal" the threads of a NPT fitting from leaking.  They are simply there to 
lubricate the threads so a sufficiently tight connection can be made.  The 
lubricant may also help in disassembly.  By design the mechanical compression 
as a result of the tapered threads is what is actually supposed to prevents 
leaks.  Yes, you can use all manner of sealants which may "help" but a proper 
NPT connection shouldn't need it. 

That being said, I used Teflon tape on my exhaust (3GM35F).  Just 2 wraps.  I 
may have difficulty getting the joint apart, who knows.  I also used a bench 
vice to provide enough counter-torque.

As a suggestion I would give high temp anti-seaze a try.  It is usually copper 
colored and most auto parts stores should carry it.  If you've ever replaced 
an O2 sensor they include a small tube.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

 


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Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow - 2GM20F

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Yeah maybe it was short sided to use tape but the point was to "lubricate"
the threads and allow a tight enough connection.  It is in fact tight
enough because my air filter now stays clean.  Like i said, I may play hell
getting it apart should the need arise.  As for fumes, i haven't noticed
any

Josh
On Jun 23, 2015 7:40 AM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  I know That teflon tape is not used in fuel oil heating system lines
> because the fuel dissolves teflon tape.
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 6/23/2015 12:38 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:
>
>
> Hi Josh,
>
> Good point made regarding tapered thread sealing qualities and the lube
> aids to obtaining a good mechanical seal.
>
> I'm a little dismayed that you used Teflon tape on the exhaust fittings.
> This is probably the worst application for the product (second being any
> system with a pump in it). It is best used in domestic water situations.
>
> At about 660 degrees F Teflon tape decomposes and emits a toxic fume.
> Fatal to birds in the home when the frying pan gets too hot and probably
> not good for humans in a small space either.
>
> I whole heartedly support the use of high temp anti-seize. It might stink
> a wee bit on the first couple of runs but it probably won't harm you.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>
> At 04:08 AM 22/06/2015, you wrote:
>
> Most if not all pipe dopes and Teflon tape sealers are not really there to
> "seal" the threads of a NPT fitting from leaking.  They are simply there
> to lubricate the threads so a sufficiently tight connection can be made.Â
> The lubricant may also help in disassembly.  By design the mechanical
> compression as a result of the tapered threads is what is actually supposed
> to prevents leaks.  Yes, you can use all manner of sealants which may
> "help" but a proper NPT connection shouldn't need it.Â
>
> That being said, I used Teflon tape on my exhaust (3GM35F).  Just 2
> wraps.  I may have difficulty getting the joint apart, who knows.  I also
> used a bench vice to provide enough counter-torque.
>
> As a suggestion I would give high temp anti-seaze a try.  It is usually
> copper colored and most auto parts stores should carry it.  If you've ever
> replaced an O2 sensor they include a small tube.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Stus-List C&C 115 rig tensions

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

We are tuning the mast on Koobalibra this evening.  It occurred to me that I 
never knew any tension numbers for the C&C 115 and that we normally just do it 
til it feels right and then adjust after sailing a bit.

Does anyone have the tension numbers for a baseline tune?

Mike

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Re: Stus-List Marion Bermuda Race

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Don't worry -- we'll just toss you overboard...   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI



> On Jun 22, 2015, at 5:17 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Note to crew - if I drop dead on board I expect you to finish the race!
> 
> Joel

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Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow - 2GM20F

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I know That teflon tape is not used in fuel oil heating system lines 
because the fuel dissolves teflon tape.


Bill Bina

On 6/23/2015 12:38 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Josh,

Good point made regarding tapered thread sealing qualities and the 
lube aids to obtaining a good mechanical seal.


I'm a little dismayed that you used Teflon tape on the exhaust 
fittings. This is probably the worst application for the product 
(second being any system with a pump in it). It is best used in 
domestic water situations.


At about 660 degrees F Teflon tape decomposes and emits a toxic fume. 
Fatal to birds in the home when the frying pan gets too hot and 
probably not good for humans in a small space either.


I whole heartedly support the use of high temp anti-seize. It might 
stink a wee bit on the first couple of runs but it probably won't harm 
you.


Cheers, Russ
/Sweet /35 mk-1

At 04:08 AM 22/06/2015, you wrote:

Most if not all pipe dopes and Teflon tape sealers are not really 
there to "seal" the threads of a NPT fitting from leaking.  They are 
simply there to lubricate the threads so a sufficiently tight 
connection can be made. The lubricant may also help in 
disassembly.  By design the mechanical compression as a result of 
the tapered threads is what is actually supposed to prevents leaks.  
Yes, you can use all manner of sealants which may "help" but a proper 
NPT connection shouldn't need it.Â


That being said, I used Teflon tape on my exhaust (3GM35F). Just 2 
wraps.  I may have difficulty getting the joint apart, who knows.  
I also used a bench vice to provide enough counter-torque.


As a suggestion I would give high temp anti-seaze a try.  It is 
usually copper colored and most auto parts stores should carry it. 
If you've ever replaced an O2 sensor they include a small tube.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


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