Re: Stus-List Crew Assignments - 35mkIII

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Having been crew for over 10 years, it is my opinion that pigeon holing
positions is great in theory if you can get the same crew week after week.
Otherwise you need crew that is flexible and can adapt quickly.  For
example, foredeckers make the best cockpit and midships crew  since they
can anticipate the needs of the foredeck.

More helpful than a "jobs list" is practice.  Our crew would arrange
practice on Tuesday night in preps for the Wednesday night race.  Focus on
tacks and spin jibes... Fast.  Then spin launch and take down... Fast.
You'll have time to talk and figure out what people need and where.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
I have a fairly green crew - and I put myself in that category when it
comes to spinnaker handling - and we are trying to move more permanently
into the beer can spinnaker division - using a symmetrical spinnaker.

I am looking for help in defining specific jobs / task responsibilities to
my crew so at least to start, they get to know set of jobs and do them well

I think I have the "standard" set up for 35mk iii s

Roller furled jib
Spin halyard to base of mast and winch on cabin top just aft of mast on
port side
I use guys and sheets - no twings
Pole topping lift brought aft to clutch on starboard cabin top
Pole down haul brought aft to clam clear on starboard side of cockpit coming
Self tailing primaries aft with non-self tailing secondaries forward

I am not short of crew, but ideally would like to have clear assignments
for six or seven individuals - though we often have a couple extra
available.

I would like to prepare (plagiarize if someone has this already!!) a table
with "positions" in the left column and then a series of columns for
"upwind" "hoist" "trim" "gybe" "douse" etc. and then each cell would define
the job or jobs assigned to each position during that maneuver.

While I am sure some of this is generic, I feel that the boat layout
requires the assignments to be tailored so that crew don't get in each
other's way

Anybody got anything already prepared that I could use as a starting point?

As always - grateful in advance for the individual and collective wisdom of
this group.


--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
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Re: Stus-List jelly substance on filters

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Probably because you put in the biocides. If your tank was bad to start
with, all those dead critters have to go somewhere. By "secondary" filter I
am assuming you are not talking about the on-engine filter but a
Racor...correct me if I'm wrong. Finding goo only in the on-engine filter
would be very strange.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 15 August 2015 at 17:51, Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Problems getting the Yanmar 2gmf to go. Found the secondary filter
> completely clogged with a jellylike substance. Have put in biocides, extra
> power stuff. Only thing not added is Vatican Holy Water. Why the jelly?
>
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Stus-List jelly substance on filters

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

Problems getting the Yanmar 2gmf to go. Found the secondary filter completely 
clogged with a jellylike substance. Have put in biocides, extra power stuff. 
Only thing not added is Vatican Holy Water. Why the jelly? ___

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Re: Stus-List 34+ boom rigging Q's

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Dave,

Follow the link for some pictures of my rig related to your previous
questions.

Josh

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yNmxKNkRsWVNEUms/edit
On Aug 14, 2015 4:51 AM, "davepulaski via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> So my new-to-me 34+ is now in the water and I'm working on getting
> everything sorted out.  I'm at a bit of disadvantage since the boat was out
> of the water with the rig down when I bought her,  so I've never actually
> seen her rigged and rig is considerably different than my previous 28'er.
>
> My questions today concern the boom,  which I wouldn't have thought to be
> confusing but I'm puzzled by it nonetheless.
>
> There are 3 sheaves at the aft end of the boom and three that exit the
> bottom of the forward end of the boom.  The PO did at least run messenger
> lines through the boom but nothing is labeled.   There does not appear to
> be any internal purchase arrangement inside the boom for the outhaul.
>
> First - outhaul.  There is a length of SS wire with a thimble at either
> end that runs over the middle sheave at the aft end of the boom and is just
> coiled up and hanging loosely there.   I'm assuming this is the outhaul,
>  but I'm not sure how it's supposed to be led.  Inside the boom,  down and
> out through a sheave at the bottom forward end of the boom,  then shackled
> to a length of rope & back to a cabin top clutch & winch?
>
> Topping lift:  there is a length of light line that is dead-ended at the
> masthead.  I can only assume this is a topping lift.  What to do with it?
> Does it occupy one set of the interal sheaves and come down and back to the
> cockpit?  There doesn't seem to be any external hardware on the boom for it.
>
> Reefing: what's the stock arrangement for reefing supposed to look like?
> Does not appear to be a single-line system.  Are both reefs typically
> pre-rigged, or just the first reef?  I assume the leach reefing line dead
> ends on the boom, up through the cringle, down to a sheave, inside the
> boom, down & out at the forward end of the boom, then back to the cabin top
> clutch & winch, yes?
>
> I'm headed back out to the boat today & I'm sure I'll uncover more
> mysteries.  Sorry for all the dumb questions,  but this is a bit like
> trying to do a jigsaw puzzle without having the picture of what it's
> supposed to look like at the end!
>
> Thanks all!
>
> -Dave
>
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List 34+ lower intermediate shrouds

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I stand corrected.  Looking at it today i checked and my lower shrouds are
straight.  Its my check stays that are bent and that's because i move them
forward on the toe rail.

Josh
On Aug 14, 2015 3:51 PM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:

> Looks like mine.
>
> I wouldn't hesitate to disconnect them.  Count the turns and have
> anti-seeze available during reassembly.
>
> Josh
> On Aug 14, 2015 2:42 PM, "davepulaski via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Here's my next ultra-paranoid new owner question:
>>
>> So, looking up at my rig from the deck at where the lower intermediate
>> shrouds enter the attachment point to the mast, they do not appear to make
>> a perfectly straight lead right into the socket.
>>
>> They both appear to take a very slight bend in the last 4" or so.  No
>> kink or anything,  just a slight bend. Is this right, or is there a
>> potential problem with the toggles in the mast?
>>
>> Attached is a link to a pic I just took.  You can see what I'm talking
>> about if you zoom in on the base of the lower spreaders.
>>
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/rjn5ipkmipy1j0s/20150814_143653.jpg?dl=0
>>
>> Secondary,  is it safe to completely disconnect these lower intermediates
>> at the deck turnbuckles without throwing the rig too much out of column &
>> collapsing it?  (With boat on its mooring of course, I don't even have any
>> sails bent on yet).
>>
>> Thanks all!
>>
>>
>> Sent from my T-Mobile Galaxy Note 2
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List cleaning heat exchanger

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Dwight;

 

I think your thermostat is 165 degrees, so the engine temperature should run 
from about 165 to 180 depending on the load on the engine.

 

You said you were pumping more water through the system than before. Does your 
boat still have the 1 ½” exhaust outlet that was used for the A4 engine, or 
does it have a 2” outlet recommended for the diesel? Could more volume going 
through the same size (and possibly slightly restrictive) opening account for 
the increased sound? Or is it an “audible” illusion because you are 
concentrating so closely on the exhaust?

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2015 7:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Re: Stus-List cleaning heat exchanger

 

yesterday first trial under auxilliary power since acid cleaning the salt water 
heat exchanger...into a 15 kt apparent headwind, no appreciable sea

first sweet spot 1600 rpm 4-4.5 kts forward.  coolant temp 170F

second sweet spot 2200 rpm, 6-6.5 kts forward still 170F smooth but I little 
louder to be expected, 

third sweet spot 2800 rpm, 7+ kts louder than a like but bearable and coolant 
temp still between 170-180F

Maybe she's running a little too cool now




Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

d.ve...@bellaliant.net  

 

 

On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 12:28 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Dwight,

Very logical method.  I may try that too.

 

Chuck

 


  _  


From: "dwight veinot via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: "dwight" mailto:dwight...@gmail.com> >
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 8:34:44 PM


Subject: Re: Stus-List cleaning heat exchanger

 

I just wanted to give an update on cleaning the salt water side of the heat 
exchanger on my Universal M4-30.  I took the easy way out and used chemicals 
and increased the rate of salt water exiting the exhaust from around 1 gallon 
per minute before cleaning to over 3 gallons per minute after cleaning at idle 
(1000 rpm).

 

Here is a summary of what I did.  I disconnected the inlet hose to the salt 
water pump and tied it off high above the waterline so I did not have to close 
the hull valve which is not located in the easiest of places to reach on 
Alianna.  I removed the pencil zinc from the heat exchanger and inserted a 
blank plug. I bought 4L of concentrated (31.45%) muriatic acid (same as 
hydrochloric acid)  for about $10 from the local hardware store and I diluted 
2L of that concentrated acid 1 acid to 5 fresh water in a 3 gallon plastic 
bucket...it is important to always add acid to water (just like the alphabet 
goes A to W) and also to have a ready supply of water to flush if you 
accidentally get some on your skin or in your eyes and also be careful not to 
inhale fumes when you open the concentrate container.  My first degree was Hons 
Chem and I had many years of advising Dockyard staff in the chemical cleaning 
facility for the Canadian Navy so I have a fair knowledge of chemicals and 
their interaction with metals and their safe use.

So I ran the engine up with a section of hose from the salt water pump into the 
bucket of acid mix and introduced about a gallon of the mix into the heat 
exchanger and then stopped the engine.  Let that soak for 10 minutes and then 
started the engine again and introduced a second gallon of acid mix, stopped 
the engine and let that soak for 10 minutes. When the first batch exited the 
exhaust it was a dirty rust yellow color and the flow exiting the exhaust 
already appeared much increased.  Then after 10 minutes soaking with the second 
batch I started the engine and introduced a third gallon of acid mix, stopped 
the engine and let that soak for 5 more minutes.  The effluent from the exhaust 
got cleaner after the second and third soaks and after 3 soaks it had no 
visible color.  Then I reconnected the hose for saltwater intake to the pump 
and ran the engine on idle for about an hour. while I measured more accurately 
the water flow out the exhaust which was over 3 times the rate before the 
cleaning at over 3 gallons per minute on idle.  I suppose the real test will 
come when I steam into my first head wind and want the engine running at 3000 
rpm or better for more power but for now I feel quite assured that my over heat 
issue has been addressed.  I will replace the pencil zinc later but I must say 
it does not get wasted that quickly since it has been insatlled for nearly 2 
seasons now and still seems to be quite intact so I guess it would do 3 seasons 
at least.

 

Anyway this process took about an hour, plus the celebration time while the 
engine was running on idle after the cleaning and all seems well.  My thought 
is that acid cleaning is a lot easier and probably more effective 

Re: Stus-List 34+ lower intermediate shrouds

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Dave;

 

There definitely seems to be something wrong. The shrouds should be straight 
when under tension.

The ball joints at the top of my shrouds look something like an apostrophe ( , 
) with the ball off to one side of the joint. If I were to guess, I’d say the 
guys who were setting the mast somehow got the shrouds rotated 180 degrees 
before they connected and tightened them.

 

I would not be afraid to disconnect both shrouds (though the conservative 
approach would be to do only one at a time), nor to go up the mast to look the 
situation over closely.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of davepulaski 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 2:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: davepulaski 
Subject: Stus-List 34+ lower intermediate shrouds

 

Here's my next ultra-paranoid new owner question:

 

So, looking up at my rig from the deck at where the lower intermediate shrouds 
enter the attachment point to the mast, they do not appear to make a perfectly 
straight lead right into the socket. 

 

They both appear to take a very slight bend in the last 4" or so.  No kink or 
anything,  just a slight bend. Is this right, or is there a potential problem 
with the toggles in the mast?

 

Attached is a link to a pic I just took.  You can see what I'm talking about if 
you zoom in on the base of the lower spreaders.

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rjn5ipkmipy1j0s/20150814_143653.jpg?dl=0

 

Secondary,  is it safe to completely disconnect these lower intermediates at 
the deck turnbuckles without throwing the rig too much out of column & 
collapsing it?  (With boat on its mooring of course, I don't even have any 
sails bent on yet).

 

Thanks all!

 

 

Sent from my T-Mobile Galaxy Note 2

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Re: Stus-List Looking at a C&C 40-2 AC (Aft Cabin)

[David Donnelly via CnC-List]

Andrew I looked up the article you referenced since I find that special
something about the 40 that draws my attention every time. I will someday
own one just not ready yet.

My favorite line of the article, and so true as I do it almost time I leave
my mooring to come home:

" Finally, I have to say again that no matter what, no matter how
impractical, my boat has to be beautiful. As my old dad always used to say,
"There's no point owning a boat if you don't pause at the oars and gaze at
her every time you leave her." "

My own take on this theme is that if YOU don't believe you have the
prettiest boat in the anchorage, you will always lust after the one you
don't own.

Regards,
David Donnelly
C&C 26 Mistress

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 9:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking at a C&C 40-2 AC (Aft Cabin)

Sitting on mine on my way to Maine. Just had a delightful sail under
spinnaker all the way up Buzzards Bay. I was asked to write an article for
sail magazine on my ideal cruising boat; I ended up describing the C&C 40
almost to a tee. (Before I bought this one.) The short answer is, I love the
boat and so does my wife!

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine


Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Aug 14, 2015, at 23:18, Don Marlin via CnC-List 
wrote:
> 
> Was looking to see if anyone in the list had any experience (good or
> bad) with this particular boat model.
> 
> The engine access looks like it is a bit of a challenge. Similar to LF38.
> The stairs into the cabin are fairly steep and it is a long way down.
> 
> Anyhow, any feedback is appreciated.
> 
> --
> Don Marlin
> 
> ___
> 
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bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Crew Assignments - 35mkIII

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Jonathan,

First thing I'd recommend you do is to install a spinnaker halyard parker
cleat.  Get one of these:



Add a camcleat and bolt it to your mast so your mastman can hoist the
chute, "park" the halyard and move on to other tasks.  The halyard can be
tidied up later.

The way it works is the camcleat opening faces the mast.  During the hoist,
the mastman is pulling the halyard down and outboard.  When he lets go, the
halyard is cleated.  When to tidy up by taking out slack after the turning
block, the halyard will be uncleated as it is pulled towards the mast.

I'll let others pipe in on the crew assignments.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Aug 15, 2015 at 8:16 AM, Indigo via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I have a fairly green crew - and I put myself in that category when it
> comes to spinnaker handling - and we are trying to move more permanently
> into the beer can spinnaker division - using a symmetrical spinnaker.
>
> I am looking for help in defining specific jobs / task responsibilities to
> my crew so at least to start, they get to know set of jobs and do them well
>
> I think I have the "standard" set up for 35mk iii s
>
> Roller furled jib
> Spin halyard to base of mast and winch on cabin top just aft of mast on
> port side
> I use guys and sheets - no twings
> Pole topping lift brought aft to clutch on starboard cabin top
> Pole down haul brought aft to clam clear on starboard side of cockpit
> coming
> Self tailing primaries aft with non-self tailing secondaries forward
>
> I am not short of crew, but ideally would like to have clear assignments
> for six or seven individuals - though we often have a couple extra
> available.
>
> I would like to prepare (plagiarize if someone has this already!!) a table
> with "positions" in the left column and then a series of columns for
> "upwind" "hoist" "trim" "gybe" "douse" etc. and then each cell would define
> the job or jobs assigned to each position during that maneuver.
>
> While I am sure some of this is generic, I feel that the boat layout
> requires the assignments to be tailored so that crew don't get in each
> other's way
>
> Anybody got anything already prepared that I could use as a starting point?
>
> As always - grateful in advance for the individual and collective wisdom
> of this group.
>
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
> ___
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Crew Assignments - 35mkIII

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Jonathan, I think I have what you need (when we get back from a mini-cruise).  
Do you have any capability to get the halyard back to the cockpit too?  That 
way your pit person could handle all up / down lines.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

> On Aug 15, 2015, at 9:16 AM, Indigo via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have a fairly green crew - and I put myself in that category when it comes 
> to spinnaker handling - and we are trying to move more permanently into the 
> beer can spinnaker division - using a symmetrical spinnaker.  
> 
> I am looking for help in defining specific jobs / task responsibilities to my 
> crew so at least to start, they get to know set of jobs and do them well
> 
> I think I have the "standard" set up for 35mk iii s 
> 
> Roller furled jib
> Spin halyard to base of mast and winch on cabin top just aft of mast on port 
> side
> I use guys and sheets - no twings
> Pole topping lift brought aft to clutch on starboard cabin top 
> Pole down haul brought aft to clam clear on starboard side of cockpit coming
> Self tailing primaries aft with non-self tailing secondaries forward
> 
> I am not short of crew, but ideally would like to have clear assignments for 
> six or seven individuals - though we often have a couple extra available. 
> 
> I would like to prepare (plagiarize if someone has this already!!) a table 
> with "positions" in the left column and then a series of columns for "upwind" 
> "hoist" "trim" "gybe" "douse" etc. and then each cell would define the job or 
> jobs assigned to each position during that maneuver.  
> 
> While I am sure some of this is generic, I feel that the boat layout requires 
> the assignments to be tailored so that crew don't get in each other's way
> 
> Anybody got anything already prepared that I could use as a starting point?
> 
> As always - grateful in advance for the individual and collective wisdom of 
> this group. 
> 
> 
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
> ___
> 
> Email address:
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Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

On our M4-30, the fuel pump is energized when you turn on the switch and stays 
on until the switch is turned off. The electric fuel pump is a booster pump and 
we found we could run the engine to half speed without the pump. (Cleaning the 
ground connection on the fuel pump, brought it back to life) The PO made a 
change to the factory setup and our starter is energized separately from the 
Glow Plugs. He simply moved the starter button line wire from the load side of 
the glow plug button 2" to the line side terminal, so both buttons are hot fed 
when the switch is on. I like this arrangement because the Glow plugs are only 
needed when the engine is cold, first start of the day. The starter can be 
started with one button this way. 

Starting sequence: 
Usually I turn on the switch and listen for the ticking of the fuel pump. 
I set the shifter to neutral, set throttle to 1/3rd 
Hold the glow plug button for 30 seconds if it's warm out, or 60 seconds if 
it's cooler. 
Push the starter button till she fires off but no more than 10 secs, then 
adjust throttle down to idle. 
She usually starts first time. If not, I hold glow plugs longer and try again. 

I shut down the engine when sailing and never need the glow plugs for starting 
the rest of the day. 
Shutdown requires pulling the engine stop cable, turn off the key, and put 
shifter in reverse. 

I think the Universal M4-30 is a very robust and reliable engine and the Yanmar 
is just more popular because of numbers. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Neil Gallagher via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Neil Gallagher"  
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 8:50:09 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring 

The power to the starter button is supposed to come off the switched terminal 
of the glow plug button. You are supposed to to have to push the glow plug 
switch and the starter switch every time you start, as the glow plug switch 
also powers both the electric fuel pump until the oil pressure builds up, and 
silences the low oil pressure alarm. Once the oil pressure rises, its switch 
powers the fuel pump. 

I put an M30B in our club launch and it has the same setup. 

Neil Gallagher 
Weatherly, 35-1 
Glen Cove, NY 


On 8/10/2015 11:15 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: 


Since I got my boat, I have been bothered by the fact that the engine will not 
start in the way it is described in the manual unless plugged into shore power. 
The manual says to hold the glow plug button for about 30 seconds and then 
while continuing to hold that button in, push the start button. When I do that, 
the starter does not turn over. If I release the glow plug button and push the 
start button the engine starts fine. My father (retired electrical engineer) 
and I (genetic engineer- useless in this case but sounds good) spent some time 
trying to diagnose the problem this weekend and found two interesting things: 

1. The buttons both tested fine in terms of their switch function. We then 
tested power at the engine. There is a heavy red cable coming from the battery 
to the starter measured 12V. The red-yellow wire from the start button is 
attached to what I am presuming is the solenoid (the wiring diagram in the 
manual does not show a solenoid). We only measured 8 volts at the solenoid when 
the button is pushed, but 12 volts everywhere else. So that probably explains 
the fact that both the glow plugs and starter won’t work at the same time 
because we appear to be losing 4 volts in the solenoid. I will pull the starter 
next winter and have someone test it unless someone has an alternative 
suggestion. 

2. The wiring diagram in the manual (Fig 2 on page 13) shows the power from the 
key switch coming into the glow plug button and then a wire from the other lead 
to the start button. The manual shows that wire running from the downstream 
side of the glow plug switch so that the start button should only be energized 
when the glow plug button is pushed (as the manual describes). If that were the 
case, the I would not be able to start the engine with only the start button. 
Nevertheless, it does start the engine. Tracing the wires, we found that the 
bridging wire actually came from the hot side of the glow plug switch, so that 
either button will work independently as both are always powered. What I don’t 
understand is why you would wire it the other way (as the manual shows) since 
that would remove the ability to start the engine without the glow plugs (as in 
an already warm engine). I don’t know if the PO or some yard mechanic made that 
change or if it is indicated wrong in the manual, so I am curious how other 
Universal panels are wired. The way it is actually wired makes more sense to me 
than what is in the manual unless I am missing something. 

Thanks- Dave 

Aries 
1990 C&C 34+ 
New London, CT 




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Stus-List Crew Assignments - 35mkIII

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I have a fairly green crew - and I put myself in that category when it comes to 
spinnaker handling - and we are trying to move more permanently into the beer 
can spinnaker division - using a symmetrical spinnaker.  

I am looking for help in defining specific jobs / task responsibilities to my 
crew so at least to start, they get to know set of jobs and do them well

I think I have the "standard" set up for 35mk iii s 

Roller furled jib
Spin halyard to base of mast and winch on cabin top just aft of mast on port 
side
I use guys and sheets - no twings
Pole topping lift brought aft to clutch on starboard cabin top 
Pole down haul brought aft to clam clear on starboard side of cockpit coming
Self tailing primaries aft with non-self tailing secondaries forward

I am not short of crew, but ideally would like to have clear assignments for 
six or seven individuals - though we often have a couple extra available. 

I would like to prepare (plagiarize if someone has this already!!) a table with 
"positions" in the left column and then a series of columns for "upwind" 
"hoist" "trim" "gybe" "douse" etc. and then each cell would define the job or 
jobs assigned to each position during that maneuver.  

While I am sure some of this is generic, I feel that the boat layout requires 
the assignments to be tailored so that crew don't get in each other's way

Anybody got anything already prepared that I could use as a starting point?

As always - grateful in advance for the individual and collective wisdom of 
this group. 


--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
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Re: Stus-List 34+ lower intermediate shrouds

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

It is completely safe to disconnect the lower shrouds (if you have the other
two attached).

 

Am I correct that you have just stepped the mast and did not sail with it
yet? It is quite possible that there is a kink in the wire and it needs to
be straightened out. In that case, it would correct itself once you put some
load on it (i.e. sail). My experience tells me that you won't be able to
tune the mast correctly without doing at least one sail with moderate loads
(moderate wind).

 

Another option is to disconnect the two shrouds, run up the mast to the
spreaders and check the ball and socket joint. It should move freely. And
don't worry; you can hang yourself from the mast without those lower
shrouds.

 

Marek Dziedzic

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: August-14-15 18:10
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard
Subject: Stus-List 34+ lower intermediate shrouds

 

Something's up with the ball and socket. They should be perfectly straight.
The bend is very slight that should not be a problem.  It'll straighten
right up once you free up the joint and put some tension on it.  

Should be fine with loosening them up.  Just to be on safe side you might
want to loosen-up the whole rig to avoid uneven loads.  Pick a calm day,
make sure you put tape on the threads to mark your current setting. 

Hopefully all the ball / socket joint needs is lubrication.  Make sure You
look at it very carefully inspecting for cracks and the overall state of the
mast in the surrounding area.  I would definitely not sail it until it's
been looked at. 


Regards

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

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Re: Stus-List cleaning heat exchanger

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

yesterday first trial under auxilliary power since acid cleaning the salt
water heat exchanger...into a 15 kt apparent headwind, no appreciable sea

first sweet spot 1600 rpm 4-4.5 kts forward.  coolant temp 170F

second sweet spot 2200 rpm, 6-6.5 kts forward still 170F smooth but I
little louder to be expected,

third sweet spot 2800 rpm, 7+ kts louder than a like but bearable and
coolant temp still between 170-180F

Maybe she's running a little too cool now

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 12:28 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dwight,
> Very logical method.  I may try that too.
>
> Chuck
>
> --
> *From: *"dwight veinot via CnC-List" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *"dwight" 
> *Sent: *Tuesday, August 11, 2015 8:34:44 PM
>
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List cleaning heat exchanger
>
> I just wanted to give an update on cleaning the salt water side of the
> heat exchanger on my Universal M4-30.  I took the easy way out and used
> chemicals and increased the rate of salt water exiting the exhaust from
> around 1 gallon per minute before cleaning to over 3 gallons per minute
> after cleaning at idle (1000 rpm).
>
> Here is a summary of what I did.  I disconnected the inlet hose to the
> salt water pump and tied it off high above the waterline so I did not have
> to close the hull valve which is not located in the easiest of places to
> reach on Alianna.  I removed the pencil zinc from the heat exchanger and
> inserted a blank plug. I bought 4L of concentrated (31.45%) muriatic acid
> (same as hydrochloric acid)  for about $10 from the local hardware store
> and I diluted 2L of that concentrated acid 1 acid to 5 fresh water in a 3
> gallon plastic bucket...it is important to always add acid to water (just
> like the alphabet goes A to W) and also to have a ready supply of water to
> flush if you accidentally get some on your skin or in your eyes and also be
> careful not to inhale fumes when you open the concentrate container.  My
> first degree was Hons Chem and I had many years of advising Dockyard staff
> in the chemical cleaning facility for the Canadian Navy so I have a fair
> knowledge of chemicals and their interaction with metals and their safe use.
> So I ran the engine up with a section of hose from the salt water pump
> into the bucket of acid mix and introduced about a gallon of the mix into
> the heat exchanger and then stopped the engine.  Let that soak for 10
> minutes and then started the engine again and introduced a second gallon of
> acid mix, stopped the engine and let that soak for 10 minutes. When the
> first batch exited the exhaust it was a dirty rust yellow color and the
> flow exiting the exhaust already appeared much increased.  Then after 10
> minutes soaking with the second batch I started the engine and introduced a
> third gallon of acid mix, stopped the engine and let that soak for 5 more
> minutes.  The effluent from the exhaust got cleaner after the second and
> third soaks and after 3 soaks it had no visible color.  Then I reconnected
> the hose for saltwater intake to the pump and ran the engine on idle for
> about an hour. while I measured more accurately the water flow out the
> exhaust which was over 3 times the rate before the cleaning at over 3
> gallons per minute on idle.  I suppose the real test will come when I steam
> into my first head wind and want the engine running at 3000 rpm or better
> for more power but for now I feel quite assured that my over heat issue has
> been addressed.  I will replace the pencil zinc later but I must say it
> does not get wasted that quickly since it has been insatlled for nearly 2
> seasons now and still seems to be quite intact so I guess it would do 3
> seasons at least.
>
> Anyway this process took about an hour, plus the celebration time while
> the engine was running on idle after the cleaning and all seems well.  My
> thought is that acid cleaning is a lot easier and probably more effective
> than mechanical cleaning with wooden dowels or wires. I will now do this
> procedure (probably only one soaking) on a more regular basis because I
> really think it did an excellent job.  I believe phosphoric acid might also
> do a good cleaning but it was not readily availbale without going to the
> big city.  I am a happy sailor tonight.  Thanks to eveyone for the helpful
> input, especially that video on Rydlyme from Chuck which Robert drew to my
> attention.
>
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 9, 2015 at 8:52 PM, dwight veinot  wrote:
>
>> Rick, how did replacing the pressure cap on the fresh water side solve
>> your problem.  I have never checked the thermostat but the hose clamps do
>> not appear to be leaking...there is an overflow drain right below the
>> pressure cap.
>>
>> Dwight Veinot
>> C&C 35 MKII, *Alian

Re: Stus-List 34+ lower intermediate shrouds

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

I wouldn't worry about going up the mast.   The loads you will be imparting
on the mast are nearly vertical.  The shrouds are there for lateral support.
Like Ed said, I wouldn't hesitate to go up the mast either.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Pulaski via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 9:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Pulaski
Subject: Stus-List 34+ lower intermediate shrouds

 

Here's another pic that show the un-straightness of the lead into the
sockets of the lower intermediate shrouds.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5rt7uwrhyervfn9/20150814_161547.jpg?dl=0

It's definitely not just that it's not tight - those shrouds actually have a
fair bit of tension on them.

I'm hoping it's just that the terminal wasn't pulled all the way down into
the socket when they stepped the mast and it's hung-up a bit in there, able
to be shaken free and run straight.

...which leads to the next question:  should it be ok for me to go up the
mast with this lower shroud disconnected?  I weigh about 200#.  The spar
seems pretty beefy and I doubt it couldn't handle it, just want to check
with the experts here.  I'd hate to have to have the rig dropped again just
to deal with this issue.

Thanks again all for sharing your collective wealth of knowledge!

-Dave

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