Re: Stus-List depth transducer replacement

[Dave via CnC-List]

Oops - sorry frank, another too hasty reply from work...Agreed with other 
poster, drill from both sides.  As suggested, Good practice to score one side 
first anyway to prevent splintering.

> On Dec 11, 2015, at 12:23 PM, Dave Syer  wrote:
> 
> Frank  - How about knocking the old sensor out and spending two minutes 
> enlarging the hole with a coarse half-round file?  (could use a die grinder 
> if air nearby,  or a bit from one on a cordless drill, or a drum sander ona 
> cordless drill, etc)
> Am I missing something?
>  
> Dave
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> Message: 12
> Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2015 08:19:11 -0800 (PST)
> From: svpegasu...@gmail.com 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List depth transducer replacement
> Message-ID: <000f4242.2eb1832d2f8da...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have drilled many a large hole that way. Works great.?
> Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- Original message--From: Eric Frank via CnC-List Date: Thu, Dec 10, 
> 2015 12:20To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Eric Frank;Subject:Stus-List depth 
> transducer replacement
> A question about removing a depth transducer to install the new one.  Based 
> on earlier input from the list, I have used a 2 inch hole saw from the top. 
> Fortunately the diameter of the old transducer is just shy of 2 in and the 
> new one requires a 2 in hole. So the body of the old transducer just fits 
> inside the hole saw, keeping it lined up with little drag (not cutting much 
> of the plastic body of the transducer).  When the inside top of the hole saw 
> reached the top of the transducer, I then cut off the top half of the 
> transducer so I could proceed drilling down.  Now the hole saw just touches 
> the hull, but the inside top of the hole saw hits the top of the transducer, 
> so I will need to saw off the next section of the transducer to proceed 
> further.  With my tools, not so easy to saw off the transducer just above the 
> hull. Question: what about drilling down thru the transducer with a regular 
> drill bit, using the pilot hole made by the drill bit in the hole saw, and 
> then, using that hole as a guide, use the hole saw to proceed up from the 
> outside of the hull.  This would avoid cutting thru more of the transducer (a 
> pain), and the pilot hole should guide the hole saw. Sound OK, or better to 
> continue from the top?Thanks as always for your input.Eric FrankCat's PawC&C 
> 35 Mk IIMattapoisett, MA___Email 
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Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

It has been my experience in the past that Doyle's pricing system is such
that it ends up too expensive to convert an older sail. But it could vary
by loft.
Ahmet
Boston,Ma
On Dec 10, 2015 8:54 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I was looking at the Doyle Stack Pack information on their web site.  It
> indicates that an existing sail can be converted to a stack pack sail.
>
>
>
> Persistence came with lazy jacks (since removed but still available for
> reinstallation). Also have an older UK Tape Drive main as well as an almost
> new Quantum main.  This past season we used the older main for deliveries,
> everyday sailing and Wednesday racing and kept the new main for regattas
> etc …  Had noted a friend with aFrers 33 has a Doyle Stack Pack for
> deliveries and casual sailing and it has good enough sail shape for limited
> racing as well.  Have been considering a stack pack main at some time for
> cruising.
>
>
>
> Has anyone here converted an existing sail to a stack pack?  Any thoughts
> on feasibility of converting an older UK Tape Drive to stack pack?  Any
> ideas on cost and if at the end of life for that sail the stack pack
> components can be used on another sail?
>
>
>
> I know that the previous season we found the lazy jacks a pain that were
> always in the way and that last season with just two of us flaking the main
> was a major PITA esp when entering a narrow channel or looking to anchor.
>
>
>
> Thoughts?
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 33
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
> Formerly
>
> Nut Case 1987 J27
>
> Full Tilt 2 1979 Hinterhoeller Niagara 26
>
> Monkey Bear 1974 Paceship P23
>
> Full Tilt 1970s McVay Minuette
>
> Blue Horizon No. 1 1981 C&C 36 (family boat)
>
> High Hopes 1979 Spirit 28 (family boat)
>
>
>
> ___
>
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 items for sale - and thank you!

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

I sold my Catalina 36 eight years ago. I am still on their list and
contribute.
Ahmet
On Dec 9, 2015 3:15 PM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Sad to hear that you are moving on from Mojito Tim but glad to hear it is
> going to a good home.  Their website makes the Courageous Sailing program
> look like a great endeavor
>
>
>
> Hope all is well with life after sailing (or at least life after C&C)
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
> Goodyear via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 09, 2015 3:31 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Tim Goodyear
> *Subject:* Stus-List C&C 35-3 items for sale - and thank you!
>
>
>
> My C&C 35-3, Mojito will be living up in Boston with Courageous Sailing (a
> great organization if you ever come across them) next year as part of their
> boat donation program.  Courageous has been kind to me and my crew over the
> years (including rescuing us after a de-masting in a prior boat and
> teaching many friends' families how to sail).
>
>
>
> It has been great meeting people on this list - either virtually or (much
> better) in-person at a couple of the NE Rendezvous's.  This list is an
> amazing resource for C&C owners and for boat maintenance advice in general
> - I hope you don't mind if I lurk for a while...  Thank you for the advice,
> assistance and encouragement!
>
>
>
> There are a couple of items (listed below) that won't be going with the
> boat and I will put up for sale separately - please let me know if you're
> interested off list and we can review price.
>
>
>
> Thank you,
>
>
>
> Tim
>
>
>
> Tim Goodyear
>
> Mojito
>
> C&C 35-3
>
> Branford, CT
>
>- Boom tent boat cover - Miller Marine Canvas Mustang 9oz cloth (Nov
>2012).  Designed for use with the mast stepped (using the boom and
>spinnaker poles for support) with a flap over the toe rail.  Used only one
>winter (because the mast was not stepped the other winters for various
>reasons).  Courageous store all their boats with mast out, so they have no
>need.  Original cost $2,500.
>- #2 Genoa - North Sails 145% 3DL 14,700 DPI (May 2015) in sausage
>bag.  Used ~3 hours  Cut for 35/3 Furlex Furler, but with no UV cover.
>Original cost $5,505.
>- S1.5 Spinnaker (0.5oz) - North Sails S1.5 Airx 600N Red / White in
>North launcher bag (June 2015).  Used ~2 hours.  Original cost $4,050.
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Auto pilot clamp, threaded rod.

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Brian,
 I'm thinking that the shaft probably didn't have a keyway, so the PO
drilled a hole through the shaft and the arm and installed a bolt.
Probably, vice grips and the careful application of heat are in your future.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C^&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Dec 11, 2015 at 11:35 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Brian,
>
> I looked at your picture again and realized that it appears the four bolts
> have already been removed.  Did the arm come off and now only the back
> remains?  I'm thinking more and more that vice-grips are in your future.
>
> Josh
> On Dec 11, 2015 6:23 PM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Hello, my name is Brian. I recently bought La Neige, a 1993 37/40xl.
>> I am in the Chesapeake.
>>
>> http://i.imgur.com/5faMwZ9.jpg
>>
>> The link is to a picture of my C&C 37/40 auto pilot clamp, where it
>> attaches to the rudder shaft. The threaded rod has no bolt head to unscrew
>> the rod.
>> Has anyone dealt with this issue? I need to drop my rudder, and this is
>> not allowing that to happen.
>> .
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List depth transducer replacement

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Dave - And just to let you know, the two-side method worked beautifully.  Did 
it yesterday.  Thanks to all who responded (and with a single solution!).

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

Oops - sorry frank, another too hasty reply from work...Agreed with other 
poster, drill from both sides.  As suggested, Good practice to score one side 
first anyway to prevent splintering.

> On Dec 11, 2015, at 12:23 PM, Dave Syer  > wrote:
> 
> Frank  - How about knocking the old sensor out and spending two minutes 
> enlarging the hole with a coarse half-round file? (could use a die grinder if 
> air nearby,  or a bit from one on a cordless drill, or a drum sander ona 
> cordless drill, etc)
> Am I missing something?
> 
> Dave
> 



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Stus-List Threaded bolt

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Thank you for your replies. I havent figured out how to reply to the posts,
so I will just reply here.

The threaded rod appears to be threaded into the shaft, on one side only.
The 4 bolts holding the arm and clamp together came apart easily.
I tried first with vice grips. No dice.
Now trying to rethread to try the 2 nut idea.
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Stus-List Replacing outhaul and exit block on Landfall 38

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

In preparation for my new mainsail, I would like to replace the outhaul and the 
exit block--the outhaul is wire + rope and it's 32 years old.  I would like to 
change it to all rope, using some high-strength, low- stretch rope which is yet 
to be selected.

I' m having a problem finding a suitable exit block--the outhaul runs 
internally through the boom and comes out thru an exit plate (as rope) just 
before a small winch.  The existing exit block is intended for wire and doesn't 
look big enough to handle 5/16" or 3/8" rope.

Has anyone else done this and where did you get an exit block that fits?  Or 
did you enlarge the opening in the boom for a Schaefer exit block?

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Dec 12, 2015, at 6:43 AM, Sailnomad via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I sold my Catalina 36 eight years ago. I am still on their list and 
> contribute.
> Ahmet
> 
>> On Dec 9, 2015 3:15 PM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Sad to hear that you are moving on from Mojito Tim but glad to hear it is 
>> going to a good home.  Their website makes the Courageous Sailing program 
>> look like a great endeavor
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Hope all is well with life after sailing (or at least life after C&C)
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> Persistence
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim 
>> Goodyear via CnC-List
>> Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2015 3:31 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Tim Goodyear
>> Subject: Stus-List C&C 35-3 items for sale - and thank you!
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> My C&C 35-3, Mojito will be living up in Boston with Courageous Sailing (a 
>> great organization if you ever come across them) next year as part of their 
>> boat donation program.  Courageous has been kind to me and my crew over the 
>> years (including rescuing us after a de-masting in a prior boat and teaching 
>> many friends' families how to sail).
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> It has been great meeting people on this list - either virtually or (much 
>> better) in-person at a couple of the NE Rendezvous's.  This list is an 
>> amazing resource for C&C owners and for boat maintenance advice in general - 
>> I hope you don't mind if I lurk for a while...  Thank you for the advice, 
>> assistance and encouragement!
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> There are a couple of items (listed below) that won't be going with the boat 
>> and I will put up for sale separately - please let me know if you're 
>> interested off list and we can review price.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thank you,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Tim
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Tim Goodyear
>> 
>> Mojito
>> 
>> C&C 35-3
>> 
>> Branford, CT
>> 
>> Boom tent boat cover - Miller Marine Canvas Mustang 9oz cloth (Nov 2012).  
>> Designed for use with the mast stepped (using the boom and spinnaker poles 
>> for support) with a flap over the toe rail.  Used only one winter (because 
>> the mast was not stepped the other winters for various reasons).  Courageous 
>> store all their boats with mast out, so they have no need.  Original cost 
>> $2,500.
>> #2 Genoa - North Sails 145% 3DL 14,700 DPI (May 2015) in sausage bag.  Used 
>> ~3 hours  Cut for 35/3 Furlex Furler, but with no UV cover.  Original cost 
>> $5,505.
>> S1.5 Spinnaker (0.5oz) - North Sails S1.5 Airx 600N Red / White in North 
>> launcher bag (June 2015).  Used ~2 hours.  Original cost $4,050.
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Threaded bolt

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Heat is the answer.  If your SS set screw is galvanically bonded to the 
aluminum tiller arm heating up both will allow you to break the bolt free with 
a vice grip.  If not immediately, try some p-blaster on the threads and allow 
it to migrate overnight before trying again.
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic 25-1
(Formerly an Edson employee)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 12, 2015, at 11:43 AM, Brian Fry via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Thank you for your replies. I havent figured out how to reply to the posts, 
> so I will just reply here.
> 
> The threaded rod appears to be threaded into the shaft, on one side only.
> The 4 bolts holding the arm and clamp together came apart easily.
> I tried first with vice grips. No dice.
> Now trying to rethread to try the 2 nut idea.
> 
> ___
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Threaded bolt

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Brian I still can't understand what the bolt is for.  Does the rudder shaft
have a groove or key way?  Does it align with the threaded bolt?  Did the
front/arm part come off when you removed the 4 bolts?

To reply to postings or responses to your original post, simply hit reply
and leave the subject the same.  Since the subject is the same many of our
modern day email clients will automatically compile the emails with the
same subject or RE: or FWD: as part of the same conversation.  Try to keep
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then a reply would automatically populate the TO: section with
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forwarded to all list subscribers.  If you decide to respond to someone off
list you can do that by looking at the message details and extracting their
email address.  Then replace cnc-list@cnc-list.com with their address in
the TO: section of your new email.

Let me know how things go,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Dec 12, 2015 11:44 AM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Thank you for your replies. I havent figured out how to reply to the
> posts, so I will just reply here.
>
> The threaded rod appears to be threaded into the shaft, on one side only.
> The 4 bolts holding the arm and clamp together came apart easily.
> I tried first with vice grips. No dice.
> Now trying to rethread to try the 2 nut idea.
>
> ___
>
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Threaded bolt

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

What Chuck said!

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Dec 12, 2015 at 11:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Heat is the answer.  If your SS set screw is galvanically bonded to the
> aluminum tiller arm heating up both will allow you to break the bolt free
> with a vice grip.  If not immediately, try some p-blaster on the threads
> and allow it to migrate overnight before trying again.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic 25-1
> (Formerly an Edson employee)
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 12, 2015, at 11:43 AM, Brian Fry via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thank you for your replies. I havent figured out how to reply to the
> posts, so I will just reply here.
>
> The threaded rod appears to be threaded into the shaft, on one side only.
> The 4 bolts holding the arm and clamp together came apart easily.
> I tried first with vice grips. No dice.
> Now trying to rethread to try the 2 nut idea.
>
> ___
>
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
> ___
>
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Stus-List Annapolis yacht club

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

There was a three alarm fire at Annapolis yacht club this afternoon. No one
was hurt. The building may be a total loss.

Joel


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Auto pilot clamp, threaded rod.

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Josh,
 Did you install the autopilot or a PO?  If you installed it was the
rudder cut out when you got it and did the shaft have a keyway already cut
in it.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Dec 11, 2015 at 6:38 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've removed my rudder arm and it looked nothing like that.  It looks like
> you are looking at the back side.  The 4 bolts accessible from the front
> are all you need to remove.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yZU1hczd0QlNEOWc/edit
>
> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA/edit
>
> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yQWIyanRiTzBKRlk/edit
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Dec 11, 2015 6:23 PM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Hello, my name is Brian. I recently bought La Neige, a 1993 37/40xl.
>> I am in the Chesapeake.
>>
>> http://i.imgur.com/5faMwZ9.jpg
>>
>> The link is to a picture of my C&C 37/40 auto pilot clamp, where it
>> attaches to the rudder shaft. The threaded rod has no bolt head to unscrew
>> the rod.
>> Has anyone dealt with this issue? I need to drop my rudder, and this is
>> not allowing that to happen.
>> .
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Auto pilot clamp, threaded rod.

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Gary,

Autopilot was already there.

Keyway goes almost the full length of the rudder stock.

I think this may have been a factory install since the platform in Brian's
boat looks exactly like mine.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Dec 12, 2015 5:02 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Josh,
>  Did you install the autopilot or a PO?  If you installed it was the
> rudder cut out when you got it and did the shaft have a keyway already cut
> in it.
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Fri, Dec 11, 2015 at 6:38 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I've removed my rudder arm and it looked nothing like that.  It looks
>> like you are looking at the back side.  The 4 bolts accessible from the
>> front are all you need to remove.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yZU1hczd0QlNEOWc/edit
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA/edit
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yQWIyanRiTzBKRlk/edit
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> On Dec 11, 2015 6:23 PM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello, my name is Brian. I recently bought La Neige, a 1993 37/40xl.
>>> I am in the Chesapeake.
>>>
>>> http://i.imgur.com/5faMwZ9.jpg
>>>
>>> The link is to a picture of my C&C 37/40 auto pilot clamp, where it
>>> attaches to the rudder shaft. The threaded rod has no bolt head to unscrew
>>> the rod.
>>> Has anyone dealt with this issue? I need to drop my rudder, and this is
>>> not allowing that to happen.
>>> .
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
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>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Annapolis yacht club

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

Terrible:


http://www.eyeonannapolis.net/2015/12/12/3-alarm-fire-ravaging-annapolis-yacht-club/

[http://www.eyeonannapolis.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/DSC_5540-500x333.jpg]

3-Alarm fire ravaging Annapolis Yacht Club | Eye On Annapolis
UPDATE:  Statement from AYC The Annapolis Yacht Club (AYC) suffered a 
devastating fire today mid-afternoon at the main clubhouse on Compromise 
Street. While the extent of the damage to the facility is unknown at this point 
AYC will be closed until further notice. "We thank the Annapolis Police and 
area Fire departments for their quick action and our senior management for 
quickly evacuating the facility," said Commodore Rod Jabin. "We are saddened by 
the events of today but thankful that no one was seriously injured. The yacht 
club was closed to its members while preparing for the Lights Parade and all of 
the staff got out safely. Club officers and management will be assessing the 
situation tomorrow to determine the extent of the damage and move the process 
forward to rebuilding. A 3-Alarm fire is currently ravaging the Annapolis Yacht 
Club located at 2 Compromise Street.  Most downtown streets are closed and the 
fire is being attacked from the land as well as the water. Images via
Read 
more...


Cheers,

Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2015 4:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Stus-List Annapolis yacht club

There was a three alarm fire at Annapolis yacht club this afternoon. No one was 
hurt. The building may be a total loss.

Joel


--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole "uphaul" ??

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I thought everybody called it the upf**ker.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 11 December 2015 at 22:16, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Chuck,
>
> Maybe I should have used  in the response. Email message can be
> difficult to express subtleties, but I probably should have warned you
> about clarifying sailing terms here. My approval rating has been about
> 50/50 so far. 
>
> The topping lift was never just for the main boom. It was in general use
> for any spar lift at the lower portion of a sail, main, stays'l or
> spinnaker. Club footed jib excepted of course and upper spars having other
> cute names, such as peak halyard.
>
> Anyhow, these days it seems we're all correct. Most of us foredeck guys
> from the 70s & 80s would know the smallest wire & snap shackle is the
> top'n' lift, or later on to become the "pole lift".
>
> And as you say, when a foredeck mate yells at the pit for uphaul, he
> really wants the inboard end of the spinnaker pole raised. It is remarkable
> how long it can take for this simple request to be acknowledged sometimes.
> :)
>
> But don't be too hard on newbies. If their source of info is the Internet
> they get advice from Wiki such as this:
>
> From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
> This article is about the spar. For floating barriers to control access to
> harbours and rivers, see boom (navigational barrier)
> .
> For other uses, see Boom
>  .
>  In sailing , a *boom* is a spar
>  (pole), along the foot
>  (bottom edge)
> of a fore and aft  rigged sail
>  , [1]
> 
> that...   *(good so far, but..)*
>
>
> The *topping lift* (more rarely known as an *uphaul*) is a line
>  which applies upward
> force on a boom  on a
> sailboat .
>
>
> A topping lift may also refer to a line on the front of the mast used to
> rig the spinnaker pole. It is used to trim the pole to the proper height
> when hoisting the spinnaker .
>
>
> Hoo boy. Where do we go from here?
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>
>
>
>
>
> At 02:27 PM 11/12/2015, you wrote:
>
> I like to differentiate two very different animals:
> The Topping Lift" goes to the boom end.  The "Spinnaker Pole Lift"
> controls the Pole end while there is an uphaul and downhaul on the spin
> pole car on the mast, I prefer to name the mast control lines, "spin pole
> car uphaul and downhaul".
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Russ & Melody via CnC-List" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *"Russ & Melody" 
> *Sent: *Thursday, December 10, 2015 9:38:01 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole
>
>
> Do you mean the top'n' lift? :)
>
>
> At 02:25 PM 10/12/2015, you wrote:
> Do you mean the spinnaker pole lift?
>
> --
> From: "Pamela & David via CnC-List" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Pamela & David" 
> Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 5:07:55 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Spinnaker pole
>
> Hello
>
> Does anyone know the length of rope for the UPHAUL on a C&C-34?
>
> I have a tracer string inplace on a recent purchase boat and are looking
> for a quick job to replace
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole "uphaul" ??

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

That's the second call.!


At 04:50 PM 12/12/2015, you wrote:

I thought everybody called it the upf**ker.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 11 December 2015 at 22:16, Russ & Melody via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Chuck,

Maybe I should have used  in the response. 
Email message can be difficult to express 
subtleties, but I probably should have warned 
you about clarifying sailing terms here. My 
approval rating has been about 50/50 so far. 


The topping lift was never just for the main 
boom. It was in general use for any spar lift at 
the lower portion of a sail, main, stays'l or 
spinnaker. Club footed jib excepted of course 
and upper spars having other cute names, such as peak halyard.


Anyhow, these days it seems we're all correct. 
Most of us foredeck guys from the 70s & 80s 
would know the smallest wire & snap shackle is 
the top'n' lift, or later on to become the "pole lift".


And as you say, when a foredeck mate yells at 
the pit for uphaul, he really wants the inboard 
end of the spinnaker pole raised. It is 
remarkable how long it can take for this simple 
request to be acknowledged sometimes.  :)


But don't be too hard on newbies. If their 
source of info is the Internet they get advice from Wiki such as this:



From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
This article is about the spar. For floating 
barriers to control access to harbours and 
rivers, see 
boom 
(navigational barrier).
For other uses, see 
Boom .
 In 
sailing, 
a boom is a 
spar 
(pole), along the 
foot 
(bottom edge) of a 
fore 
 and aft rigged 
sail 
, 
[1] 
that...           (good so far, but..)


The topping lift (more rarely known as an 
uphaul) is a 
line 
which applies upward force on a 
boom 
on a sailboat.


A topping lift may also refer to a line on the 
front of the mast used to rig the spinnaker 
pole. It is used to trim the pole to the proper 
height when hoisting the spinnaker.


Hoo boy. Where do we go from here?

        Cheers, Russ
        Sweet 35 mk-1





At 02:27 PM 11/12/2015, you wrote:

I like to differentiate two very different animals:
The Topping Lift" goes to the boom end.  The 
"Spinnaker Pole Lift" controls the Pole end 
while there is an uphaul and downhaul on the 
spin pole car on the mast, I prefer to name the 
mast control lines, "spin pole car uphaul and downhaul".


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


--
From: "Russ & Melody via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Russ & Melody" <russ...@telus.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 9:38:01 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole


Do you mean the top'n' lift? :)


At 02:25 PM 10/12/2015, you wrote:
Do you mean the spinnaker pole lift?


--
From: "Pamela & David via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Pamela & David" 
<thesaltfam...@gmail.com>

Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 5:07:55 PM
Subject: Stus-List Spinnaker pole
Hello
Does anyone know the length of rope for the UPHAUL on a C&C-34?
I have a tracer string inplace on a recent 
purchase boat and are looking for a quick job to replace


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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole "uphaul" ??

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Boat "ropes" are divided into categories. Two major categories are "uppy downy" 
lines and "innie outie" lines.  The thingie that holds the spinnaker stick up 
is an "uppy downie" line. Sheets are "innie outie" lines. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 12, 2015, at 6:54 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> That's the second call.!
> 
> 
> At 04:50 PM 12/12/2015, you wrote:
>> I thought everybody called it the upf**ker. 
>> 
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>> On 11 December 2015 at 22:16, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi Chuck,
>> 
>> Maybe I should have used  in the response. Email message can be 
>> difficult to express subtleties, but I probably should have warned you about 
>> clarifying sailing terms here. My approval rating has been about 50/50 so 
>> far. 
>> 
>> The topping lift was never just for the main boom. It was in general use for 
>> any spar lift at the lower portion of a sail, main, stays'l or spinnaker. 
>> Club footed jib excepted of course and upper spars having other cute names, 
>> such as peak halyard.
>> 
>> Anyhow, these days it seems we're all correct. Most of us foredeck guys from 
>> the 70s & 80s would know the smallest wire & snap shackle is the top'n' 
>> lift, or later on to become the "pole lift". 
>> 
>> And as you say, when a foredeck mate yells at the pit for uphaul, he really 
>> wants the inboard end of the spinnaker pole raised. It is remarkable how 
>> long it can take for this simple request to be acknowledged sometimes.  :)
>> 
>> But don't be too hard on newbies. If their source of info is the Internet 
>> they get advice from Wiki such as this:
>> 
>>> From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
>>> This article is about the spar. For floating barriers to control access to 
>>> harbours and rivers, see boom (navigational barrier).
>>> For other uses, see Boom .
>>> Â In sailing, a boom is a spar (pole), along the foot (bottom edge) of a 
>>> fore and aft rigged sail , [1] that...           (good so far, 
>>> but..)
>> 
>>> The topping lift (more rarely known as an uphaul) is a line which applies 
>>> upward force on a boom on a sailboat. 
>> 
>>> A topping lift may also refer to a line on the front of the mast used to 
>>> rig the spinnaker pole. It is used to trim the pole to the proper height 
>>> when hoisting the spinnaker.
>> 
>> Hoo boy. Where do we go from here?
>> 
>> Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
>> Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35 mk-1
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> At 02:27 PM 11/12/2015, you wrote:
>>> I like to differentiate two very different animals:
>>> The Topping Lift" goes to the boom end.  The "Spinnaker Pole Lift" 
>>> controls the Pole end while there is an uphaul and downhaul on the spin 
>>> pole car on the mast, I prefer to name the mast control lines, "spin pole 
>>> car uphaul and downhaul".
>>> 
>>> Chuck
>>> Resolute
>>> 1990 C&C 34R
>>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>>> 
>>> From: "Russ & Melody via CnC-List" 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: "Russ & Melody" 
>>> Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 9:38:01 PM
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Do you mean the top'n' lift? :)
>>> 
>>> 
>>> At 02:25 PM 10/12/2015, you wrote:
>>> Do you mean the spinnaker pole lift?
>>> 
>>> From: "Pamela & David via CnC-List" 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: "Pamela & David" 
>>> Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 5:07:55 PM
>>> Subject: Stus-List Spinnaker pole
>>> Hello
>>> Does anyone know the length of rope for the UPHAUL on a C&C-34?
>>> I have a tracer string inplace on a recent purchase boat and are looking 
>>> for a quick job to replace 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> ___
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>>> bottom of page at:
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>>> 
>>> 
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>>> 
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>>> bottom of page at:
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>>> 
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>>> bottom of page at:
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>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> of page at:
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>> 
>> 
>> 

Re: Stus-List Replacing outhaul and exit block on Landfall 38

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Bob,

 

Why do you want to change it, just because it’s old?

If there’s nothing wrong with it, leave it alone.

A few years ago I changed out the wire in my outhaul to Dynema.

The Dynema snapped during a jibe around the last mark in heavy air race.

The breaking strength of the line should have been able to lift the boat but it 
couldn’t handle the shock load of the jibe.

I swapped it back to the old wire for the rest of the regatta and never looked 
back.

If the rope part is getting ratty just replace that part.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer 
via CnC-List
Sent: December-12-15 12:45
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer
Subject: Stus-List Replacing outhaul and exit block on Landfall 38

 

In preparation for my new mainsail, I would like to replace the outhaul and the 
exit block--the outhaul is wire + rope and it's 32 years old.  I would like to 
change it to all rope, using some high-strength, low- stretch rope which is yet 
to be selected.

 

I' m having a problem finding a suitable exit block--the outhaul runs 
internally through the boom and comes out thru an exit plate (as rope) just 
before a small winch.  The existing exit block is intended for wire and doesn't 
look big enough to handle 5/16" or 3/8" rope.

 

Has anyone else done this and where did you get an exit block that fits?  Or 
did you enlarge the opening in the boom for a Schaefer exit block?

 

Bob

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD

1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230

email: dainyr...@icloud.com 

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame


On Dec 12, 2015, at 6:43 AM, Sailnomad via CnC-List  
wrote:

I sold my Catalina 36 eight years ago. I am still on their list and contribute.
Ahmet 

On Dec 9, 2015 3:15 PM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"  wrote:

Sad to hear that you are moving on from Mojito Tim but glad to hear it is going 
to a good home.  Their website makes the Courageous Sailing program look like a 
great endeavor

 

Hope all is well with life after sailing (or at least life after C&C)

 

Mike

Persistence

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2015 3:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tim Goodyear
Subject: Stus-List C&C 35-3 items for sale - and thank you!

 

My C&C 35-3, Mojito will be living up in Boston with Courageous Sailing (a 
great organization if you ever come across them) next year as part of their 
boat donation program.  Courageous has been kind to me and my crew over the 
years (including rescuing us after a de-masting in a prior boat and teaching 
many friends' families how to sail).

 

It has been great meeting people on this list - either virtually or (much 
better) in-person at a couple of the NE Rendezvous's.  This list is an amazing 
resource for C&C owners and for boat maintenance advice in general - I hope you 
don't mind if I lurk for a while...  Thank you for the advice, assistance and 
encouragement!

 

There are a couple of items (listed below) that won't be going with the boat 
and I will put up for sale separately - please let me know if you're interested 
off list and we can review price.

 

Thank you,

 

Tim

 

Tim Goodyear

Mojito

C&C 35-3

Branford, CT

*   Boom tent boat cover - Miller Marine Canvas Mustang 9oz cloth (Nov 
2012).  Designed for use with the mast stepped (using the boom and spinnaker 
poles for support) with a flap over the toe rail.  Used only one winter 
(because the mast was not stepped the other winters for various reasons).  
Courageous store all their boats with mast out, so they have no need.  Original 
cost $2,500.
*   #2 Genoa - North Sails 145% 3DL 14,700 DPI (May 2015) in sausage bag.  
Used ~3 hours  Cut for 35/3 Furlex Furler, but with no UV cover.  Original cost 
$5,505.
*   S1.5 Spinnaker (0.5oz) - North Sails S1.5 Airx 600N Red / White in 
North launcher bag (June 2015).  Used ~2 hours.  Original cost $4,050.


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  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6176 / Virus Database: 4483/11165 - Release Date: 12/12/15

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Re: Stus-List Annapolis yacht club

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

What does this mean for folks with their boats at the docks?
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Sat, Dec 12, 2015 at 4:38 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There was a three alarm fire at Annapolis yacht club this afternoon. No
> one was hurt. The building may be a total loss.
>
> Joel
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Auto pilot clamp, threaded rod.

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Josh,
 I'm wondering if all 37 Pluses have a full length keyway, or only
boats with the factory autopilot installation.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Dec 12, 2015 at 5:56 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary,
>
> Autopilot was already there.
>
> Keyway goes almost the full length of the rudder stock.
>
> I think this may have been a factory install since the platform in Brian's
> boat looks exactly like mine.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Dec 12, 2015 5:02 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Josh,
>>  Did you install the autopilot or a PO?  If you installed it was the
>> rudder cut out when you got it and did the shaft have a keyway already cut
>> in it.
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> '90 C&C 37 Plus
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Dec 11, 2015 at 6:38 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I've removed my rudder arm and it looked nothing like that.  It looks
>>> like you are looking at the back side.  The 4 bolts accessible from the
>>> front are all you need to remove.
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yZU1hczd0QlNEOWc/edit
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA/edit
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yQWIyanRiTzBKRlk/edit
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>> On Dec 11, 2015 6:23 PM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Hello, my name is Brian. I recently bought La Neige, a 1993 37/40xl.
 I am in the Chesapeake.

 http://i.imgur.com/5faMwZ9.jpg

 The link is to a picture of my C&C 37/40 auto pilot clamp, where it
 attaches to the rudder shaft. The threaded rod has no bolt head to unscrew
 the rod.
 Has anyone dealt with this issue? I need to drop my rudder, and this is
 not allowing that to happen.
 .

 ___

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>>> ___
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>>> bottom of page at:
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
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>>
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Re: Stus-List Replacing outhaul and exit block on Landfall 38

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

My new mainsail will be a loose-footed sail for better sailing performance.  
With this arrangement, the outhaul is more vital since it is the only thing 
holding the sail to the boom.  I would rather not be making repairs while 
cruising the Bahamas--I would rather address things here before repairs are 
needed.  The outhaul is the only running rigging I have never replaced and I 
think its time to replace it after 32 years.

Today, I tried to use a messenger line from the rope end but found that the 
wire-to-rope splice would not pass the exit sheave on the boom.  Tomorrow, I 
will take the boom's end cap off to see why.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Dec 12, 2015, at 8:34 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bob,
>  
> Why do you want to change it, just because it’s old?
> If there’s nothing wrong with it, leave it alone.
> A few years ago I changed out the wire in my outhaul to Dynema.
> The Dynema snapped during a jibe around the last mark in heavy air race.
> The breaking strength of the line should have been able to lift the boat but 
> it couldn’t handle the shock load of the jibe.
> I swapped it back to the old wire for the rest of the regatta and never 
> looked back.
> If the rope part is getting ratty just replace that part.
>  
>  
> Rick Taillieu
> Nemesis
> '75 C&C 25  #371
> Shearwater Yacht Club
> Halifax, NS.
>  
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
> Boyer via CnC-List
> Sent: December-12-15 12:45
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Robert Boyer
> Subject: Stus-List Replacing outhaul and exit block on Landfall 38
>  
> In preparation for my new mainsail, I would like to replace the outhaul and 
> the exit block--the outhaul is wire + rope and it's 32 years old.  I would 
> like to change it to all rope, using some high-strength, low- stretch rope 
> which is yet to be selected.
>  
> I' m having a problem finding a suitable exit block--the outhaul runs 
> internally through the boom and comes out thru an exit plate (as rope) just 
> before a small winch.  The existing exit block is intended for wire and 
> doesn't look big enough to handle 5/16" or 3/8" rope.
>  
> Has anyone else done this and where did you get an exit block that fits?  Or 
> did you enlarge the opening in the boom for a Schaefer exit block?
>  
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>  
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
> 
> On Dec 12, 2015, at 6:43 AM, Sailnomad via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I sold my Catalina 36 eight years ago. I am still on their list and 
> contribute.
> Ahmet
> 
> On Dec 9, 2015 3:15 PM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> Sad to hear that you are moving on from Mojito Tim but glad to hear it is 
> going to a good home.  Their website makes the Courageous Sailing program 
> look like a great endeavor
>  
> Hope all is well with life after sailing (or at least life after C&C)
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim 
> Goodyear via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2015 3:31 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tim Goodyear
> Subject: Stus-List C&C 35-3 items for sale - and thank you!
>  
> My C&C 35-3, Mojito will be living up in Boston with Courageous Sailing (a 
> great organization if you ever come across them) next year as part of their 
> boat donation program.  Courageous has been kind to me and my crew over the 
> years (including rescuing us after a de-masting in a prior boat and teaching 
> many friends' families how to sail).
>  
> It has been great meeting people on this list - either virtually or (much 
> better) in-person at a couple of the NE Rendezvous's.  This list is an 
> amazing resource for C&C owners and for boat maintenance advice in general - 
> I hope you don't mind if I lurk for a while...  Thank you for the advice, 
> assistance and encouragement!
>  
> There are a couple of items (listed below) that won't be going with the boat 
> and I will put up for sale separately - please let me know if you're 
> interested off list and we can review price.
>  
> Thank you,
>  
> Tim
>  
> Tim Goodyear
> Mojito
> C&C 35-3
> Branford, CT
> Boom tent boat cover - Miller Marine Canvas Mustang 9oz cloth (Nov 2012).  
> Designed for use with the mast stepped (using the boom and spinnaker poles 
> for support) with a flap over the toe rail.  Used only one winter (because 
> the mast was not stepped the other winters for various reasons).  Courageous 
> store all their boats with mast out, so they have no need.  Original cost 
> $2,500.

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Auto pilot clamp, threaded rod.

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I'm pretty sure mine does not have a full length keyway and it didn't have
a factory autopilot either.

Ken H.

S/V Salazar
C&C 37 XL

On 12 December 2015 at 21:54, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh,
>  I'm wondering if all 37 Pluses have a full length keyway, or only
> boats with the factory autopilot installation.
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 12, 2015 at 5:56 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Gary,
>>
>> Autopilot was already there.
>>
>> Keyway goes almost the full length of the rudder stock.
>>
>> I think this may have been a factory install since the platform in
>> Brian's boat looks exactly like mine.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> On Dec 12, 2015 5:02 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Josh,
>>>  Did you install the autopilot or a PO?  If you installed it was the
>>> rudder cut out when you got it and did the shaft have a keyway already cut
>>> in it.
>>>
>>> Gary
>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>> '90 C&C 37 Plus
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Dec 11, 2015 at 6:38 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 I've removed my rudder arm and it looked nothing like that.  It looks
 like you are looking at the back side.  The 4 bolts accessible from the
 front are all you need to remove.

 https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yZU1hczd0QlNEOWc/edit

 https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA/edit

 https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yQWIyanRiTzBKRlk/edit

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 C&C 37+
 Solomons, MD
 On Dec 11, 2015 6:23 PM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello, my name is Brian. I recently bought La Neige, a 1993 37/40xl.
> I am in the Chesapeake.
>
> http://i.imgur.com/5faMwZ9.jpg
>
> The link is to a picture of my C&C 37/40 auto pilot clamp, where it
> attaches to the rudder shaft. The threaded rod has no bolt head to unscrew
> the rod.
> Has anyone dealt with this issue? I need to drop my rudder, and this
> is not allowing that to happen.
> .
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
 ___

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>>>
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>> ___
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>>
>
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>
>
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Stus-List Fw: new message

[Barbara Lowden via CnC-List]

Hey!

 

Open message 

 

Barbara Lowden

___

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Re: Stus-List Annapolis yacht club

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

No word yet. The fire boat was there.

On Saturday, December 12, 2015, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> What does this mean for folks with their boats at the docks?
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
> On Sat, Dec 12, 2015 at 4:38 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>> There was a three alarm fire at Annapolis yacht club this afternoon. No
>> one was hurt. The building may be a total loss.
>>
>> Joel
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
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>>
>>
>>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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