Re: Stus-List repacking toe rails

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Just apply several applications of Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure over 
several days and go sailing. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 11, 2016, at 1:28 PM, "Jesse A. Rieber via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am going to recaulk the toe rails and hull to deck joint on my 32' C&C.  
> After long consideration I will be doing this with butyl tape from Compass 
> Marine.  I would be pleased to hear any advice I can get on this process, 
> particularly placing the tape between the top lip of the hull and the white 
> rub rail.  As I recall from my work on my 24' C&C, this rub rail material was 
> pop  rivited to the lip on the hull.
> 
> Jesse A. Rieber
> Witch of the Westmoreland, 32' C&C
> Cotuit, MA
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List repacking toe rails

[Rick Bushie via CnC-List]

I tightened all toe rail bolts during Christmas vacation. None of the bolts 
spun as I tightened from below. This seems to have eliminated all water ingress 
from topsides. I would try that before I tore into the deck/hull joint.

Rick Bushie
Anchovy

Sent from my iPhone
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing size issue

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

FWIW, the shaft on Orion, a Landfall 35 with a Yanmar 3HM was 1 1/8" diameter.  
Being replaced now along with cutlass bearing due to shoddy sling placement at 
haul out.
Chuck Gilchrest


Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 11, 2016, at 5:23 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Attempting to replace cutlass bearing.
> Shaft is 1.25"
> ID of the strut where the bearing goes is 1.625", which by my calculation is 
> 1 and 5/8.
> I cannot find a bearing that is 1 1/4 X 1 5/8.
> Only 1 1/4 X 1 1/2 or 1 3/4
> Cant find metric equivalent either.
> 
> Brian Fry
> La Neige
> HdG MD
> 1993 37/40XL
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List repacking toe rails

[robert via CnC-List]

Jesse:

I have a 1984 C&C 32.my boat has butyl in the deck joint.boat is 
still quite dry and I have not torqued the bolt/nut in the 10 years I 
have owned it.


Have you done this and your boat is still leaking?

ROb Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2016-02-11 3:28 PM, Jesse A. Rieber via CnC-List wrote:
I am going to recaulk the toe rails and hull to deck joint on my 32' 
C&C.  After long consideration I will be doing this with butyl tape 
from Compass Marine.  I would be pleased to hear any advice I can get 
on this process, particularly placing the tape between the top lip of 
the hull and the white rub rail.  As I recall from my work on my 24' 
C&C, this rub rail material was pop  rivited to the lip on the hull.


Jesse A. Rieber
Witch of the Westmoreland, 32' C&C
Cotuit, MA


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing size issue

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Brian,

Mine was hard to measure because there was a slight taper to the hole at
the ends of the strut.  You might double check the measurement.  1 5/8
would be odd.

Joel

On Thursday, February 11, 2016, Brian Fry via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Attempting to replace cutlass bearing.
> Shaft is 1.25"
> ID of the strut where the bearing goes is 1.625", which by my calculation
> is 1 and 5/8.
> I cannot find a bearing that is 1 1/4 X 1 5/8.
> Only 1 1/4 X 1 1/2 or 1 3/4
> Cant find metric equivalent either.
>
> Brian Fry
> La Neige
> HdG MD
> 1993 37/40XL
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List repacking toe rails

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

It doesn't hurt to apply Captain Tolleys right to the screw head, it
seems to seep in and form some sort of seal, I did it on Alianna, at
first it's white but that goes away
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 6:47 PM, BillBinaList via CnC-List
 wrote:
> Any that do spin may subsequently leak. That is why the recommended method
> is to immobilize the screw from above as you tighten the nut below.
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 2/11/2016 5:22 PM, Mike Amirault via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I’ve been working on my C&C33ii keel/deck joint too Dwight, even though I
> can’t prove the K/D joint is leaking. I have been plugging away at it
> whenever the mood strikes me; I find that the vast majority of the fasteners
> do not spin when I tighten them from below.
> Regards,
>
> Mike Amirault
> C&C33ii Lovely Cruise
> Saint MArgarets Bay, NS
> SMSC
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ProFurl Spinex

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Bill – I’ve raced with an asym for the last 5 years.  I looked closely at the 
top down spin furlers at a recent boat show.  They are expensive and, I’m told, 
not overly reliable (yet).  If looking for a way to tame a spin, I was directed 
by multiple sources to a sock.  ATN specifically.   

 

Charlie – short answer is I believe that comment is incorrect, or more likely, 
out of date.  

 

Here’s the long answer: The biggest deficit for Asym on boats like ours is 
racing W/L courses in a blow.  In our area LMPHRF has a rating credit based on 
D/L that helps negate some of this.  In lighter air, boats reach more and 
sailing angle is negligible.  However, when the wind picks up and sym boats 
pole back, that’s when we suffer the most.  Ironically in distance races, where 
we like to play, we take a rating hit for an asym.I’m told LMPHRF has a 
unique system compared to other regions.   

 

Considering ease of use, required # crew, efficiency, etc,  I think an asym is 
a much better deal.  Especially for distance races or racing cans in a light 
air area.  Heavy air buoy racing = sym.   

 

Hope that helps.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 3:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List ProFurl Spinex

 

I understood, mostly from comments on this list, that using an A-sail on a 
displacement hull and sail plan rigged for a mast head spinnaker was not 
recommended, except perhaps for short-handed racing. 

 

Is this incorrect, out-of date or still true?

 

Charlie Nelson

C&C 36XL

New Bern, NC

 

  cenel...@aol.com

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List <  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <  cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Bill Coleman <  colt...@verizon.net>
Sent: Thu, Feb 11, 2016 4:06 pm
Subject: Stus-List ProFurl Spinex

Well, PHRF-LE just allowed a foot extension for A-Sails with no penalty, so, I 
see a new stemhead fitting with a foot long bow roller in the future for the 
Coltrek.

 

Has anyone had any experience with these Profurl Spinex spinnaker furlers with 
the roller balls on the torsion rope? 

And Defender just happens to have some of these on sale . .. 

 

  
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|2358486|2358488&id=2073636

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

___

Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
  
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List repacking toe rails

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

Any that do spin may subsequently leak. That is why the recommended 
method is to immobilize the screw from above as you tighten the nut below.


Bill Bina

On 2/11/2016 5:22 PM, Mike Amirault via CnC-List wrote:
I’ve been working on my C&C33ii keel/deck joint too Dwight, even 
though I can’t prove the K/D joint is leaking. I have been plugging 
away at it whenever the mood strikes me; I find that the vast majority 
of the fasteners do not spin when I tighten them from below.

Regards,
Mike Amirault
C&C33ii Lovely Cruise
Saint MArgarets Bay, NS
SMSC



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

[Kurt Heckert via CnC-List]

I teach my students to reef as soon as they think about it, they are probably 
right. It is hard to come up with hard rules about when to reef when different 
boats and sailors have very different comfort levels.___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Cutlass bearing size issue

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Attempting to replace cutlass bearing.
Shaft is 1.25"
ID of the strut where the bearing goes is 1.625", which by my calculation
is 1 and 5/8.
I cannot find a bearing that is 1 1/4 X 1 5/8.
Only 1 1/4 X 1 1/2 or 1 3/4
Cant find metric equivalent either.

Brian Fry
La Neige
HdG MD
1993 37/40XL
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List repacking toe rails

[Mike Amirault via CnC-List]

I’ve been working on my C&C33ii keel/deck joint too Dwight, even though I can’t 
prove the K/D joint is leaking. I have been plugging away at it whenever the 
mood strikes me; I find that the vast majority of the fasteners do not spin 
when I tighten them from below. 
Regards,

Mike Amirault
C&C33ii Lovely Cruise
Saint MArgarets Bay, NS
SMSC___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ProFurl Spinex

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Depends.  If you are doing short, around the cans windward – Leeward races in 
the bay, In our case the A sail would not be a winner. However, having said 
that, if I had this setup, we would be likely use it unless we had a crew of 7 
or 8, which rarely happens. 

Longer triangles, beautiful, and long races you can’t beat it. The sailmaker 
that made mine asked me how I did a horizon job on him in a 41 mile race.  I 
told him I put the spinnaker pole on it!  He also has an asymmetric, and  said 
that thought had never occurred to him! Well, a month later he has a beast of a 
spinnaker pole, and he uses it regularly.  Except for dead down wind, the a 
sail is actually faster than a symmetrical because of the flatter luff.  It is 
a little more trouble, as you have to re-attach the tack, gybe the sail in 
front of the headstay,  re-attach to the pole. . . however, being able to roll 
this up seems like it will make life a lot easier.

 

Regards,

 

Bill Coleman

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 4:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List ProFurl Spinex

 

I understood, mostly from comments on this list, that using an A-sail on a 
displacement hull and sail plan rigged for a mast head spinnaker was not 
recommended, except perhaps for short-handed racing. 

 

Is this incorrect, out-of date or still true?

 

Charlie Nelson

C&C 36XL

New Bern, NC

 

cenel...@aol.com

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Sent: Thu, Feb 11, 2016 4:06 pm
Subject: Stus-List ProFurl Spinex

Well, PHRF-LE just allowed a foot extension for A-Sails with no penalty, so, I 
see a new stemhead fitting with a foot long bow roller in the future for the 
Coltrek.

 

Has anyone had any experience with these Profurl Spinex spinnaker furlers with 
the roller balls on the torsion rope? 

And Defender just happens to have some of these on sale . .. 

 

  
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|2358486|2358488&id=2073636

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

___

Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
  
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ProFurl Spinex

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Never used that brand, but their marketing slogan was something like "only
we have the balls to make a furler like this".

We use the asym for racing and cruising.  I bet we used it for 400 miles on
the way to Bermuda.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 4:34 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Still a good chuck of cash, even on sail but those extra seconds count
> and boy do they cost
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
>
> On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 5:02 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List
>  wrote:
> > Well, PHRF-LE just allowed a foot extension for A-Sails with no penalty,
> so,
> > I see a new stemhead fitting with a foot long bow roller in the future
> for
> > the Coltrek.
> >
> >
> >
> > Has anyone had any experience with these Profurl Spinex spinnaker furlers
> > with the roller balls on the torsion rope?
> >
> > And Defender just happens to have some of these on sale . ..
> >
> >
> >
> >
> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|2358486|2358488&id=2073636
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bill Coleman
> >
> > C&C 39 Erie, PA
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom
> > of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
> >
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ProFurl Spinex

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Still a good chuck of cash, even on sail but those extra seconds count
and boy do they cost
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 5:02 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List
 wrote:
> Well, PHRF-LE just allowed a foot extension for A-Sails with no penalty, so,
> I see a new stemhead fitting with a foot long bow roller in the future for
> the Coltrek.
>
>
>
> Has anyone had any experience with these Profurl Spinex spinnaker furlers
> with the roller balls on the torsion rope?
>
> And Defender just happens to have some of these on sale . ..
>
>
>
> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|2358486|2358488&id=2073636
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 Erie, PA
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List repacking toe rails

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

have you tried torquing the toe rail fastens...C&C puts lots of butyl
in there when mine was built and a selective area re torquing stoped
the leaksI'll do the rest when I get up the  spirit hits me or if
a leak developes, also used Captain Tolleys creeping crack cure from
the outside along the deck
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Jesse A. Rieber via CnC-List
 wrote:
> I am going to recaulk the toe rails and hull to deck joint on my 32' C&C.
> After long consideration I will be doing this with butyl tape from Compass
> Marine.  I would be pleased to hear any advice I can get on this process,
> particularly placing the tape between the top lip of the hull and the white
> rub rail.  As I recall from my work on my 24' C&C, this rub rail material
> was pop  rivited to the lip on the hull.
>
> Jesse A. Rieber
> Witch of the Westmoreland, 32' C&C
> Cotuit, MA
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ProFurl Spinex

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I understood, mostly from comments on this list, that using an A-sail on a 
displacement hull and sail plan rigged for a mast head spinnaker was not 
recommended, except perhaps for short-handed racing. 
 
Is this incorrect, out-of date or still true?
 
Charlie Nelson
C&C 36XL
New Bern, NC
 
cenel...@aol.com

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Sent: Thu, Feb 11, 2016 4:06 pm
Subject: Stus-List ProFurl Spinex



Well, PHRF-LE just allowed a foot extension for A-Sails with nopenalty, so, I 
see a new stemhead fitting with a foot long bow roller in thefuture for the 
Coltrek.
 
Has anyone had any experience with these Profurl Spinexspinnaker furlers with 
the roller balls on the torsion rope? 
And Defender just happens to have some of these on sale . .. 
 
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|2358486|2358488&id=2073636
 
 

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List ProFurl Spinex

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Well, PHRF-LE just allowed a foot extension for A-Sails with no penalty, so, I 
see a new stemhead fitting with a foot long bow roller in the future for the 
Coltrek.

 

Has anyone had any experience with these Profurl Spinex spinnaker furlers with 
the roller balls on the torsion rope? 

And Defender just happens to have some of these on sale . .. 

 

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|2358486|2358488 
 
&id=2073636

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re: Early 30-1 Interior Doors)

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks for the displacement data Michael. 

I have HIN 30007972 - hull #7 laid up in September 1972 if I'm decoding 
correctly. 

She has tiller steering and the Atomic-4 gasoline engine, rigged for spinnaker 
(pole chocked on deck) and roller-furling boom. Two batteries, two sets of 
primary winches, two danforth anchors with chain / rope rode, fairly extensive 
sail inventory. Everything else is basic and standard, or very lightweight 
optional stuff. For racing I can remove an anchor and many of the sails, and 
sail with empty tanks, etc. 

I'll report back to the list after I've calculated her weight from truck scale 
differences between loaded & unloaded trailer. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30 MK1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Michael Brown via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Michael Brown"  
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 10:38:37 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors 

I have a C&C 30 "77" model year. 
>From my HIN ZCC304531076 I would guess it is #453 laid up October 1976. 

... 

At haulout, so no mast and most stuff removed the crane weighs me at 8500 - 
8800 lbs. 
Some of the C&C specs claimed 7,900 lbs which may have been possible stripped 
out, 
one battery and tiller steering. I think in race trim carrying stuff like 
flares, anchor and rode, 
#1 - #3 - spinnakers, spin and whisker pole  I would guess 10,000 lbs is 
reasonable. 
... 

Michael Brown 
Windburn 
C&C 30-1 



C&C Sailors- 

I noticed the owner of C&C 30 MK1 hull #1, Rick Bushie, is on this list. It's 
awesome that boat is still sailing, and that her owner is in this community. 



... 



Also, Rick, what is the displacement of your boat? Sailboat data.com and the 
brochures show 8000 pounds. But the previous owner of hull #7 thinks it's 
higher, like 10,000 pounds. I'll measure her precise displacement by 
differencing truck scale weights of loaded and unloaded trailer after I launch 
her this spring, but just wanted to check with you. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30 MK1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 




___ 

Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

[Rick Bushie via CnC-List]

This fall we moved the boom gooseneck up a foot on Anchovy. It just so happened 
that her main luff was 18" short to begin with. I assume the PO bought the 
wrong sail or some other snafu. I'm planning on installing a Garhauer rigid 
vang this year and tearing off, with extreme prejudice, the wire topping lift. 
I wish I had a nickel for every time the lift wrapped itself around the 
backstay during a jibe and needed to be manually unfouled.  She is sans a vang 
at present and the twist in the mains'l is impossible to get rid of with the 
end boom sheeting.

Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 1971 30-1, Hull 1
Worton, MD


Sent from my iPhone
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors

[Rick Bushie via CnC-List]

Anchovy has a hinged bi-fold door between the v-berth and the head. The hinges 
are on the hanging locker side and is held either open or closed with a simple 
hook and eye assembly.  As far as displacement, I really couldn't say as I've 
never weighed her. 

Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 1971 30-1, Hull 1
Worton, MD

Sent from my iPhone
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List repacking toe rails

[Jesse A. Rieber via CnC-List]

I am going to recaulk the toe rails and hull to deck joint on my 32' C&C.  
After long consideration I will be doing this with butyl tape from Compass 
Marine.  I would be pleased to hear any advice I can get on this process, 
particularly placing the tape between the top lip of the hull and the white rub 
rail.  As I recall from my work on my 24' C&C, this rub rail material was pop  
rivited to the lip on the hull.

Jesse A. Rieber
Witch of the Westmoreland, 32' C&C
Cotuit, MA
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

As I said earlier, my boat is late, so the boom is a foot higher than yours, 
unless yours has been refitted.

 

That said, the Garhauer spring loaded tube attaches at the base of the mast, 
just above the partners, there’s a fitted plate – and the same is true on the 
boom, it’s about 3 -4 feet aft of the mast. Garhauer will match the plate to 
the shape of your mast and boom, just send them a template, no charge. I 
attached the block for the adjuster (which is really a 6-1 vang) to the cabin 
top just behind the mast, then ran the line through a fairlead on the 
companionway hood to a line lock on the port side of the cabin top – I have 
moved a bunch of lines through organizers back to winches on both sides of the 
cabin top. There are four locks on the port side and three on the starboard.

 

Guido at Garhauer can advise you on whether the angles are OK, just send him 
the measurements.

 

Good luck, 

Gary

#593

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 1:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

 

Thank you Rick, Michael, Francois, and all - your advice is valuable.

 

I appreciate the benefits of vangs from a few years of racing Capri 22s, J/22s, 
and Merit 25s.  In addition to the adjustable backstays on those fractional 
rigs, we'd use the vang upwind in heavy air to help depower, and to play the 
traveler in puffs without sacrificing leech tension.  And of course we'd use 
the vang off the wind to prevent boom rise.  That is why I was alarmed when I 
first saw Kona (now Grenadine) without a vang, and I'm really grateful to be 
able to reach out to this mail list with the question.

 

Those were all soft vangs - block and line arrangements.  I like the idea of a 
rigid vang to replace the topping lift - it is a hassle.  I'd always disconnect 
it underway so it wouldn't interfere with leech tension, and I did drop the 
boom on my daughter's head once when dousing the main :(  And tensioning 
systems are a pain - you have to reach too high to raise the boom, in order to 
have enough range when slack to avoid interfering with leech tension.

 

So, for those who have installed a Garhauer or Easy Kick 2, how and where do 
those systems fasten to the mast and boom?  I'll measure the distance from 
gooseneck to mast collar to see what the angle would be and compare to the 
minimum for each rigid vang option - thanks for that tip Michael.  Has anyone 
refitted a soft vang to an early 30-1?  How and where did you attach the bales 
for the blocks to mast and boom?

 

Thanks Again,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C&C 30 MK1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO

 

  _  

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: "Rick Brass" mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net> >
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 6:53:45 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

 

Randy,

 

I get the impression that the roller reefing boom was on a number of the early 
70s C&C models, though whether standard or optional I don’t know.

 

My 25 came with a roller reefing boom. It also had a soft vang. Part of the 
gear included a large yellow metal “hoop”, in the top of which was a narrow 
slot (sort of like a big “C” with a small opening) and on either side of the 
slot were 2 plastic rollers. The hoop went around the boom with the sail going 
up through the slot and the top of the soft vang attached at the bottom of the 
hoop.

 

Never worked for crap. Which is probably why you don’t see roller reefing booms 
any more.

 

I have gone to slab reefing and a rigid Garhauer vang on the 25. But I still 
keep the old “hoop” and the hand crank for the roller reefing on the boat as 
conversation pieces.

 

Do you need a vang? Depends on how and where you sail and on personal 
preferences.

 

Without a vang, the boom will rise and the leach of the main will twist off and 
spill wind when you are on any point of sail except close hauled. The tendency 
for the boom to rise can be controlled by mainsheet tension, but the more off 
the wind you are (reaching and running) the more rise you will get. The boom 
could be made of depleted uranium and would still not significantly stop the 
process.

 

A vang, rigid or soft, controls the rise of the boom and allows you to tension 
the leach for optimum performance. A rigid vang or boom kicker will support the 
boom when the sail is lowered so you can do away with the constant irritations 
of the topping lift – getting tangled in the backstay, needing adjustment when 
you foot off, forgetting to retension when you drop sail and having the boom 
fall into the cockpit, yada yada.

 

There was a discussion on the list a couple of weeks ago about the merits of 
various rigid vangs and the Boomkicker. You should search the list archives and 
read it. You would be surprised how many 

Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Aaron, Gary, Michael, Ryan. That optional equipment list didn't show any 
options for interior doors. Interestingly, however, it did show an option for a 
boom vang :) 

I will assume my boat either didn't come with a door between head and v-berth, 
or the door was removed and not replaced by a former owner (I can look for 
evidence of that). I'll probably want one and fabricate one - add that to the 
project list :) 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Michael Brown via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Michael Brown"  
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 10:38:37 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors 

I have a C&C 30 "77" model year. 
>From my HIN ZCC304531076 I would guess it is #453 laid up October 1976. 

I have the sliding door and after a few years of ownership the PO dropped off 
the 
folding door that the PPO had removed. 

At haulout, so no mast and most stuff removed the crane weighs me at 8500 - 
8800 lbs. 
Some of the C&C specs claimed 7,900 lbs which may have been possible stripped 
out, 
one battery and tiller steering. I think in race trim carrying stuff like 
flares, anchor and rode, 
#1 - #3 - spinnakers, spin and whisker pole  I would guess 10,000 lbs is 
reasonable. 


Also - from your other post on boom vangs - the early C&C 30 have a very low 
boom so 
the mounting angle needs to be considered. The distance on the mast from the 
gooseneck 
to above the mast collar is pretty minimal. Most boom vang installation 
instructions suggest 
a minimum angle they should be mounted at and that usually isn't possible on 
the early 30s. 
I have an Easykick II installed that works OK and does support the boom ( a 
racing requirement ). 
Downwind we use it to control boom lift, and upwind it is useful for setting 
depth and twist. 
I would recommend installing one, doesn't have to be fancy or expensive. I very 
much doubt 
given the short distance on the mast it operates over and the stiffness of the 
mast that any 
significant mast bend is generated. 

Michael Brown 
Windburn 
C&C 30-1 



C&C Sailors- 

I noticed the owner of C&C 30 MK1 hull #1, Rick Bushie, is on this list. It's 
awesome that boat is still sailing, and that her owner is in this community. 

The C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 I just bought has a sliding door between the salon and 
the head, but no door between the head and the v-berth. Some of the C&C 30 MK1 
brochures (I suspect later ones) show a hinged door between salon and head, and 
a folding door or double hinged doors between head and v-berth. Does anyone 
know if the door(s) between head and v-berth were an addition in later hull 
numbers? Or maybe my boat's doors were removed by a former owner and never 
replaced. Thanks in advance. 

Also, Rick, what is the displacement of your boat? Sailboat data.com and the 
brochures show 8000 pounds. But the previous owner of hull #7 thinks it's 
higher, like 10,000 pounds. I'll measure her precise displacement by 
differencing truck scale weights of loaded and unloaded trailer after I launch 
her this spring, but just wanted to check with you. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30 MK1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 




___ 

Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

FYI, The equipment list came with my boat and it's from 1979.


Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 10:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors



Hey Randy,



I have 30-1 hull number 377.  She's a 1976 model year built in 12/75.



I too have a slider between the head and the salon, but nothing between the 
V-berth and the head.  I'd imagine it would have to be a swing door and it 
would probably be a tight fit.



I'm on the train, so I cant really view this link right now, but Aaron Rouhi 
posted this Standard and Optional equipment list the other day for the 30mki 
which I thought was pretty cool.  I don't remember seeing a door option on it.  
Not sure what year it's from:

https://www.docdroid.net/6FjEscQ/standardoptionaleqlist.pdf.html



Ryan Doyle

S/V Nobody's Bargain

1976 C&C 30mki #377

New York





Message: 3
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2016 02:52:45 + (UTC)
From: randy.staff...@comcast.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors
Message-ID:
   
<414472037.2608189.1455159165092.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

C&C Sailors-

I noticed the owner of C&C 30 MK1 hull #1, Rick Bushie, is on this list. It's 
awesome that boat is still sailing, and that her owner is in this community.

The C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 I just bought has a sliding door between the salon and 
the head, but no door between the head and the v-berth. Some of the C&C 30 MK1 
brochures (I suspect later ones) show a hinged door between salon and head, and 
a folding door or double hinged doors between head and v-berth. Does anyone 
know if the door(s) between head and v-berth were an addition in later hull 
numbers? Or maybe my boat's doors were removed by a former owner and never 
replaced. Thanks in advance.

Also, Rick, what is the displacement of your boat? Sailboat 
data.com and the brochures show 8000 pounds. But the previous 
owner of hull #7 thinks it's higher, like 10,000 pounds. I'll measure her 
precise displacement by differencing truck scale weights of loaded and unloaded 
trailer after I launch her this spring, but just wanted to check with you.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30 MK1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thank you Rick, Michael, Francois, and all - your advice is valuable. 

I appreciate the benefits of vangs from a few years of racing Capri 22s, J/22s, 
and Merit 25s. In addition to the adjustable backstays on those fractional 
rigs, we'd use the vang upwind in heavy air to help depower, and to play the 
traveler in puffs without sacrificing leech tension. And of course we'd use the 
vang off the wind to prevent boom rise. That is why I was alarmed when I first 
saw Kona (now Grenadine) without a vang, and I'm really grateful to be able to 
reach out to this mail list with the question. 

Those were all soft vangs - block and line arrangements. I like the idea of a 
rigid vang to replace the topping lift - it is a hassle. I'd always disconnect 
it underway so it wouldn't interfere with leech tension, and I did drop the 
boom on my daughter's head once when dousing the main :( And tensioning systems 
are a pain - you have to reach too high to raise the boom, in order to have 
enough range when slack to avoid interfering with leech tension. 

So, for those who have installed a Garhauer or Easy Kick 2, how and where do 
those systems fasten to the mast and boom? I'll measure the distance from 
gooseneck to mast collar to see what the angle would be and compare to the 
minimum for each rigid vang option - thanks for that tip Michael. Has anyone 
refitted a soft vang to an early 30-1? How and where did you attach the bales 
for the blocks to mast and boom? 

Thanks Again, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30 MK1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Rick Brass"  
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 6:53:45 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit? 



Randy, 



I get the impression that the roller reefing boom was on a number of the early 
70s C&C models, though whether standard or optional I don’t know. 



My 25 came with a roller reefing boom. It also had a soft vang. Part of the 
gear included a large yellow metal “hoop”, in the top of which was a narrow 
slot (sort of like a big “C” with a small opening) and on either side of the 
slot were 2 plastic rollers. The hoop went around the boom with the sail going 
up through the slot and the top of the soft vang attached at the bottom of the 
hoop. 



Never worked for crap. Which is probably why you don’t see roller reefing booms 
any more. 



I have gone to slab reefing and a rigid Garhauer vang on the 25. But I still 
keep the old “hoop” and the hand crank for the roller reefing on the boat as 
conversation pieces. 



Do you need a vang? Depends on how and where you sail and on personal 
preferences. 



Without a vang, the boom will rise and the leach of the main will twist off and 
spill wind when you are on any point of sail except close hauled. The tendency 
for the boom to rise can be controlled by mainsheet tension, but the more off 
the wind you are (reaching and running) the more rise you will get. The boom 
could be made of depleted uranium and would still not significantly stop the 
process. 



A vang, rigid or soft, controls the rise of the boom and allows you to tension 
the leach for optimum performance. A rigid vang or boom kicker will support the 
boom when the sail is lowered so you can do away with the constant irritations 
of the topping lift – getting tangled in the backstay, needing adjustment when 
you foot off, forgetting to retension when you drop sail and having the boom 
fall into the cockpit, yada yada. 



There was a discussion on the list a couple of weeks ago about the merits of 
various rigid vangs and the Boomkicker. You should search the list archives and 
read it. You would be surprised how many of us on the list have a Garhauer 
rigid vang. 



Rick Brass 

Imzadi C&C 38 mk 2 

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 

Washington, NC 








From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 10:27 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net 
Subject: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit? 





C&C Sailors- 





The C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 I just bought does not have a boom vang. Perhaps because 
its boom appears designed for furling the main by rolling it around the outside 
of the boom. Or perhaps because vangs were not standard equipment on 30-1s (I 
don't see vangs in the brochures). But in looking at comparables before buying 
my boat, I did see 30-1s on the market with bangs, boom kickers, etc. 





Have any 30-1 sailors on this list found it necessary or unnecessary to have a 
vang? Or necessary to rig something else to keep the boom down? I'm worried 
about the boom pulling up on broad reaches or runs. On the other hand, I think 
it's a fairly heavy boom, and the boom-end sheeting may help to keep it down. 
I'd be interested in your comments. 





Thanks in advance. 





Cheers, 


Randy Stafford 


S/V Grenadine 


C&C 30 MK1 #7 


Ken Caryl, CO 

___

Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

I have a C&C 30  "77" model year.
>From my HIN ZCC304531076 I would guess it is #453 laid up October 1976.

I have the sliding door and after a few years of ownership the PO dropped off 
the
folding door that the PPO had removed.

At haulout, so no mast and most stuff removed the crane weighs me at 8500 - 
8800 lbs.
Some of the C&C specs claimed 7,900 lbs which may have been possible stripped 
out,
one battery and tiller steering. I think in race trim carrying stuff like 
flares, anchor and rode,
#1 - #3 - spinnakers, spin and whisker pole  I would guess 10,000 lbs is 
reasonable.


  Also - from your other post on boom vangs - the early C&C 30 have a very low 
boom so
the mounting angle needs to be considered. The distance on the mast from the 
gooseneck
to above the mast collar is pretty minimal. Most boom vang installation 
instructions suggest
a minimum angle they should be mounted at and that usually isn't possible on 
the early 30s.
I have an Easykick II installed that works OK and does support the boom ( a 
racing requirement ).
Downwind we use it to control boom lift, and upwind it is useful for setting 
depth and twist.
I would recommend installing one, doesn't have to be fancy or expensive. I very 
much doubt
given the short distance on the mast it operates over and the stiffness of the 
mast that any
significant mast bend is generated. 

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


C&C Sailors-  
 
I noticed the owner of C&C 30 MK1 hull #1, Rick Bushie, is on this list. It's 
awesome that boat is still sailing, and that her owner is in this community.  
 
The C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 I just bought has a sliding door between the salon and 
the head, but no door between the head and the v-berth. Some of the C&C 30 MK1 
brochures (I suspect later ones) show a hinged door between salon and head, and 
a folding door or double hinged doors between head and v-berth. Does anyone 
know if the door(s) between head and v-berth were an addition in later hull 
numbers? Or maybe my boat's doors were removed by a former owner and never 
replaced. Thanks in advance.  
 
Also, Rick, what is the displacement of your boat? Sailboat data.com and the 
brochures show 8000 pounds. But the previous owner of hull #7 thinks it's 
higher, like 10,000 pounds. I'll measure her precise displacement by 
differencing truck scale weights of loaded and unloaded trailer after I launch 
her this spring, but just wanted to check with you.  
 
Cheers,  
Randy Stafford  
S/V Grenadine  
C&C 30 MK1 #7  
Ken Caryl, CO  
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Post to list

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

ZCC40088E394, so built May 93 but a 94 model? Oddly like the auto industry in 
the leeway between build dates and model years. 

Cheers, Al


> On Feb 11, 2016, at 8:58 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Very likely finished before the fire.  Your full hull number and can tell you 
> what month your build started.  The number on the transom that starts ZCC40 
> something...
> 
> Ours is ZCC37067C090 which translates as:
> 
> ZCC = the three letter code for C&C Yachts. The first three characters are a 
> MIC (Manufacturer Identification Code) assigned by the Coast Guard to the 
> manufacturer.
> 
> Characters four through eight are a serial number assigned by the 
> manufacturer.  C&C used the first two of these to indicate the model (i.e. 
> boat length in feet) and the last three as serial number.
> 
> 37 = 37' long (yours will have a 40 here as they stopped pretending it was a 
> 37" boat after 1993)
> 
> 067 = Hull Number 67 of the series.
> 
> C0 = March of 1990
> 
> 90 = 1990 Model Year
> 
> http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm
> 
> Ken H.
> 
> 
> 
>> On 11 February 2016 at 00:07, Alan Liles via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Yes, 1994. I know that the factory burned that year and I wonder if it was 
>> built before that or finished somewhere else. 
>> 
>> Al Liles 
>> SV Elendil 
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>> 
>>> On Feb 10, 2016, at 5:43 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I also agree, great boat.  Elindil is a 1994 I think?  One of the newest 
>>> Canadian C&C's out there.
>>> 
>>> Congratulations.
>>> 
>>> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
>>> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
>>> C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
>>> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
>>> 
>>> http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/
>>> 
 On 10 February 2016 at 21:17, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 Al,
  It's a great boat!  Welcome.
 Gary
 S/V High Maintenance
 '90 C&C 37+
 East Greenwich, RI, USA
 
 ~~~_/)~~
 
 
> On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 8:09 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> The deal just closed. I'm the new owner of C&C 37/40+ Elendil out of 
> Victoria.
> 
> Cheers, Al
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Post to list

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Congrats!  I guess I'm not the newest owner on the list anymore.

Sam
C&C 35 mk III
SF

On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 8:58 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Very likely finished before the fire.  Your full hull number and can tell
> you what month your build started.  The number on the transom that starts
> ZCC40 something...
>
> Ours is ZCC37067C090 which translates as:
>
> ZCC = the three letter code for C&C Yachts. The first three characters are
> a MIC (Manufacturer Identification Code) assigned by the Coast Guard to the
> manufacturer.
>
> Characters four through eight are a serial number assigned by the
> manufacturer.  C&C used the first two of these to indicate the model (i.e.
> boat length in feet) and the last three as serial number.
>
> 37 = 37' long (yours will have a 40 here as they stopped pretending it was
> a 37" boat after 1993)
>
> 067 = Hull Number 67 of the series.
>
> C0 = March of 1990
>
> 90 = 1990 Model Year
>
> http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>
> On 11 February 2016 at 00:07, Alan Liles via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Yes, 1994. I know that the factory burned that year and I wonder if it
>> was built before that or finished somewhere else.
>>
>> Al Liles
>> SV Elendil
>> Victoria, BC
>>
>>
>> On Feb 10, 2016, at 5:43 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I also agree, great boat.  Elindil is a 1994 I think?  One of the newest
>> Canadian C&C's out there.
>>
>> Congratulations.
>>
>> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
>> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
>> C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
>> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
>>
>> http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/
>>
>> On 10 February 2016 at 21:17, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Al,
>>>  It's a great boat!  Welcome.
>>> Gary
>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>> '90 C&C 37+
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 8:09 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 The deal just closed. I'm the new owner of C&C 37/40+ Elendil out of
 Victoria.

 Cheers, Al


 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Reef at the dock much?

At 06:08 AM 2/11/2016, you wrote:

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2016 20:41:04 -0600
From: "Dennis C." 
To: CnClist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

I reef when my beer falls over.  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Post to list

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Very likely finished before the fire.  Your full hull number and can tell
you what month your build started.  The number on the transom that starts
ZCC40 something...

Ours is ZCC37067C090 which translates as:

ZCC = the three letter code for C&C Yachts. The first three characters are
a MIC (Manufacturer Identification Code) assigned by the Coast Guard to the
manufacturer.

Characters four through eight are a serial number assigned by the
manufacturer.  C&C used the first two of these to indicate the model (i.e.
boat length in feet) and the last three as serial number.

37 = 37' long (yours will have a 40 here as they stopped pretending it was
a 37" boat after 1993)

067 = Hull Number 67 of the series.

C0 = March of 1990

90 = 1990 Model Year

http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm

Ken H.



On 11 February 2016 at 00:07, Alan Liles via CnC-List  wrote:

> Yes, 1994. I know that the factory burned that year and I wonder if it was
> built before that or finished somewhere else.
>
> Al Liles
> SV Elendil
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> On Feb 10, 2016, at 5:43 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I also agree, great boat.  Elindil is a 1994 I think?  One of the newest
> Canadian C&C's out there.
>
> Congratulations.
>
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
>
> http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/
>
> On 10 February 2016 at 21:17, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Al,
>>  It's a great boat!  Welcome.
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> '90 C&C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 8:09 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> The deal just closed. I'm the new owner of C&C 37/40+ Elendil out of
>>> Victoria.
>>>
>>> Cheers, Al
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

On my 35/3 when cruising, 18 knots apparent I'll reef the main with the
135.  She sails faster at less than 20 degrees heel.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 11:48 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When stuff starts falling over in the galley. Main first, hate to put a
> wrinkle in my new genny.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
> On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 9:29 AM, David via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
>> When you first think of it...
>>
>> David F. Risch
>> 1981  40-2
>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>>
>>
>> --
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2016 21:53:09 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2
>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> CC: amira...@eastlink.ca
>>
>>
>> If I am by myself, flying a 130 genoa, I will reef the main at about
>> 15kts, makes for a much more comfortable ride. If I’m lazy, I’ll just fly
>> the genoa without main and still have plenty speed.
>>
>> Mike Amirault
>> C&C33ii  Lovely Cruise
>> St Margarets Bay, NS
>> SMSC
>>
>> ___ Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including
>> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
>> www.avast.com 
>> <#1514268760_-620746637_DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Post to list

[David Miles via CnC-List]

Hi All,

Does anyone know how much slower the wing keel will make a 1988 C&C 30-2
than a standard keel?

Best regards,

David Miles

1-604-575-1491
mi...@intergate.ca

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alan
Liles via CnC-List
Sent: February-10-16 10:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alan Liles
Subject: Re: Stus-List Post to list

No, I'm bringing it to Vancouver when I can. 

Cheers, Al


> On Feb 10, 2016, at 9:37 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List
 wrote:
> 
> Congrats! Beautiful boat.
> 
> Going to keep it in Sidney?
> 
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C&C 27 MkIII
> 
> -Original Message- From: Alan Liles via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 8:12 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Alan Liles
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Post to list
> 
> Thanks for the warm welcome.
> 
> Cheers, Al
> 
> 
>> On Feb 10, 2016, at 7:50 PM, Tracy Hirsh via CnC-List
 wrote:
>> 
>> Congratulations!
>> Its a beautiful boat and you can look forward to lots of fast races and
comfortable cruising alike!
>> 
>> Tracy Hirsh
>> Ogopogo
>> 1989 C&C 37+ CB
>> Fairhope AL
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I dug up my Owners Manual – it doesn’t have the lists, but the line diagram of 
the boat shows the swinging door and double doors as I described. My owners 
manual has various updates listed but that particular page isn’t dated. 

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 11:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors

 

Later versions (1980) have a hinged door between the salon and head areas and a 
double hinged door between the v-berth and the head. I’m not sure whether that 
was standard or optional – I think that list may be in my paperwork.

 

Gary Nylander #593

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 10:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Ryan Doyle mailto:ryanpdo...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors

 

Hey Randy,

 

I have 30-1 hull number 377.  She's a 1976 model year built in 12/75.

 

I too have a slider between the head and the salon, but nothing between the 
V-berth and the head.  I'd imagine it would have to be a swing door and it 
would probably be a tight fit.

 

I'm on the train, so I cant really view this link right now, but Aaron Rouhi 
posted this Standard and Optional equipment list the other day for the 30mki 
which I thought was pretty cool.  I don't remember seeing a door option on it.  
Not sure what year it's from:

  
https://www.docdroid.net/6FjEscQ/standardoptionaleqlist.pdf.html

 

Ryan Doyle

S/V Nobody's Bargain

1976 C&C 30mki #377

New York

 

 

Message: 3
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2016 02:52:45 + (UTC)
From: randy.staff...@comcast.net  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors
Message-ID:
   <414472037.2608189.1455159165092.javamail.zim...@comcast.net 
 >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

C&C Sailors- 

I noticed the owner of C&C 30 MK1 hull #1, Rick Bushie, is on this list. It's 
awesome that boat is still sailing, and that her owner is in this community. 

The C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 I just bought has a sliding door between the salon and 
the head, but no door between the head and the v-berth. Some of the C&C 30 MK1 
brochures (I suspect later ones) show a hinged door between salon and head, and 
a folding door or double hinged doors between head and v-berth. Does anyone 
know if the door(s) between head and v-berth were an addition in later hull 
numbers? Or maybe my boat's doors were removed by a former owner and never 
replaced. Thanks in advance. 

Also, Rick, what is the displacement of your boat? Sailboat data.com 
  and the brochures show 8000 pounds. But the previous owner 
of hull #7 thinks it's higher, like 10,000 pounds. I'll measure her precise 
displacement by differencing truck scale weights of loaded and unloaded trailer 
after I launch her this spring, but just wanted to check with you. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30 MK1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

When stuff starts falling over in the galley. Main first, hate to put a
wrinkle in my new genny.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 9:29 AM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> When you first think of it...
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981  40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> --
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2016 21:53:09 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: amira...@eastlink.ca
>
>
> If I am by myself, flying a 130 genoa, I will reef the main at about
> 15kts, makes for a much more comfortable ride. If I’m lazy, I’ll just fly
> the genoa without main and still have plenty speed.
>
> Mike Amirault
> C&C33ii  Lovely Cruise
> St Margarets Bay, NS
> SMSC
>
> ___ Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including
> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
> www.avast.com 
> <#-620746637_DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

To add to Francois’s list of references I would like to include one of the best 
(easiest to read) books by Don Guillette “The Sail Trim User’s Guide” 
(http://www.sailtrimproducts.com/sail_trim_users_guide.html directly from him 
or in SBO http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?51998/). Might be the best 
$25 you ever spend on boat improvements.

Marek
C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

My 35 MKII came with a door that hinges in the middle, so it stores
like half a door against the port bulkead where its primary hinges are
located and its bottom is about 18 inches above the cabin sole...you
could probably fabricate something similar for the 30 MKI
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 11:03 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
 wrote:
> Hey Randy,
>
> I have 30-1 hull number 377.  She's a 1976 model year built in 12/75.
>
> I too have a slider between the head and the salon, but nothing between the
> V-berth and the head.  I'd imagine it would have to be a swing door and it
> would probably be a tight fit.
>
> I'm on the train, so I cant really view this link right now, but Aaron Rouhi
> posted this Standard and Optional equipment list the other day for the 30mki
> which I thought was pretty cool.  I don't remember seeing a door option on
> it.  Not sure what year it's from:
>>
>> https://www.docdroid.net/6FjEscQ/standardoptionaleqlist.pdf.html
>
>
> Ryan Doyle
> S/V Nobody's Bargain
> 1976 C&C 30mki #377
> New York
>
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2016 02:52:45 + (UTC)
> From: randy.staff...@comcast.net
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors
> Message-ID:
><414472037.2608189.1455159165092.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
> C&C Sailors-
>
> I noticed the owner of C&C 30 MK1 hull #1, Rick Bushie, is on this list.
> It's awesome that boat is still sailing, and that her owner is in this
> community.
>
> The C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 I just bought has a sliding door between the salon
> and the head, but no door between the head and the v-berth. Some of the C&C
> 30 MK1 brochures (I suspect later ones) show a hinged door between salon and
> head, and a folding door or double hinged doors between head and v-berth.
> Does anyone know if the door(s) between head and v-berth were an addition in
> later hull numbers? Or maybe my boat's doors were removed by a former owner
> and never replaced. Thanks in advance.
>
> Also, Rick, what is the displacement of your boat? Sailboat data.com and the
> brochures show 8000 pounds. But the previous owner of hull #7 thinks it's
> higher, like 10,000 pounds. I'll measure her precise displacement by
> differencing truck scale weights of loaded and unloaded trailer after I
> launch her this spring, but just wanted to check with you.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30 MK1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Do you need a vang?  Depends how much you care about sailing efficiency 
(Cruising or racing). Also, to some degree I would be inclined to believe 
that a properly trimmed main will also last longer.  Without enough vang 
tension in high winds it seems the sail gets way more "belly" then it 
should, adding stretch and heel. 
 
What does the vang do?  ( I would venture to say that most casual sailors 
don't really know. ) 

It controls the leech tension, some of the mast bend (Helps flatten the 
sail)  and therefore main sail twist, to a large degree it's effects are 
on the upper third portion of the sail.. I.E look at the top batten. Here 
are a few examples of what it does

If you don't have a vang (Or don't adjust it tight enough) the top batten 
will point leeward indicating that the top of the sail is 'spilling wind' 
and not very effective at pulling the boat forward. 

Running downwind the vang can help prevent accidental gybes by keeping the 
boom level and under better control

In moderate winds close hauled or on close reach reach if the top batten 
pointed windward you have too much vang / not enough twist / don't have 
full power If you're racing: Big Difference in boat speed.  (A lot of 
folks over-tighten the vang) The last few inches of the top batten should 
be about parallel to the boom

In high winds, you can use it to control heel to some degree (And avoid 
reefing, up to a point) as mentioned above, if you loosen it up and the 
top batten is pointed leeward,  the top of the sail "Spills air" thereby 
lessening the leeward pull on the top of the mast / lessening the heel. If 
it's too lose on the other hand (As in not having one at all) then the 
sail "Puffs-up" with more belly and you of course get way more heeling / 
possibly stretch the sail (I'm talking 25-30 knots wind and more) that is 
especially true when the sail is reefed as it seems (At least on my boat) 
that the leech gets pretty loose, especially with 2 reefs

In moderate winds you also ease it some to get more twist / more power 
(Again.. Up to a point). 

The above were just a few examples, to really understand how it works you 
should read some of the pro write-ups on the subject, here's a few: 

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/racing-articles/20721-mainsail-controls-performance-part-two.html

http://www.sailingbreezes.com/sailing_breezes_current/articles/Aug00/dell0800.htm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C31nGzO54O4


To me, that's a big part of what keeps me excited about sailing..  It's a 
lifetime sport with a never flattening learning curve: The more you learn, 
the more you realize you need to learn more.. :-) 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Later versions (1980) have a hinged door between the salon and head areas and a 
double hinged door between the v-berth and the head. I’m not sure whether that 
was standard or optional – I think that list may be in my paperwork.

 

Gary Nylander #593

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 10:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors

 

Hey Randy,





I have 30-1 hull number 377.  She's a 1976 model year built in 12/75.





I too have a slider between the head and the salon, but nothing between the 
V-berth and the head.  I'd imagine it would have to be a swing door and it 
would probably be a tight fit.





I'm on the train, so I cant really view this link right now, but Aaron Rouhi 
posted this Standard and Optional equipment list the other day for the 30mki 
which I thought was pretty cool.  I don't remember seeing a door option on it.  
Not sure what year it's from:

  
https://www.docdroid.net/6FjEscQ/standardoptionaleqlist.pdf.html





Ryan Doyle

S/V Nobody's Bargain

1976 C&C 30mki #377

New York









Message: 3
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2016 02:52:45 + (UTC)
From: randy.staff...@comcast.net  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors
Message-ID:
   <414472037.2608189.1455159165092.javamail.zim...@comcast.net 
 >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

C&C Sailors- 

I noticed the owner of C&C 30 MK1 hull #1, Rick Bushie, is on this list. It's 
awesome that boat is still sailing, and that her owner is in this community. 

The C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 I just bought has a sliding door between the salon and 
the head, but no door between the head and the v-berth. Some of the C&C 30 MK1 
brochures (I suspect later ones) show a hinged door between salon and head, and 
a folding door or double hinged doors between head and v-berth. Does anyone 
know if the door(s) between head and v-berth were an addition in later hull 
numbers? Or maybe my boat's doors were removed by a former owner and never 
replaced. Thanks in advance. 

Also, Rick, what is the displacement of your boat? Sailboat data.com 
  and the brochures show 8000 pounds. But the previous owner 
of hull #7 thinks it's higher, like 10,000 pounds. I'll measure her precise 
displacement by differencing truck scale weights of loaded and unloaded trailer 
after I launch her this spring, but just wanted to check with you. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30 MK1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey Randy,

I have 30-1 hull number 377.  She's a 1976 model year built in 12/75.

I too have a slider between the head and the salon, but nothing between the 
V-berth and the head.  I'd imagine it would have to be a swing door and it 
would probably be a tight fit.

I'm on the train, so I cant really view this link right now, but Aaron Rouhi 
posted this Standard and Optional equipment list the other day for the 30mki 
which I thought was pretty cool.  I don't remember seeing a door option on it.  
Not sure what year it's from:
> https://www.docdroid.net/6FjEscQ/standardoptionaleqlist.pdf.html
> 


Ryan Doyle
S/V Nobody's Bargain
1976 C&C 30mki #377
New York


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2016 02:52:45 + (UTC)
From: randy.staff...@comcast.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors
Message-ID:
   <414472037.2608189.1455159165092.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

C&C Sailors- 

I noticed the owner of C&C 30 MK1 hull #1, Rick Bushie, is on this list. It's 
awesome that boat is still sailing, and that her owner is in this community. 

The C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 I just bought has a sliding door between the salon and 
the head, but no door between the head and the v-berth. Some of the C&C 30 MK1 
brochures (I suspect later ones) show a hinged door between salon and head, and 
a folding door or double hinged doors between head and v-berth. Does anyone 
know if the door(s) between head and v-berth were an addition in later hull 
numbers? Or maybe my boat's doors were removed by a former owner and never 
replaced. Thanks in advance. 

Also, Rick, what is the displacement of your boat? Sailboat data.com and the 
brochures show 8000 pounds. But the previous owner of hull #7 thinks it's 
higher, like 10,000 pounds. I'll measure her precise displacement by 
differencing truck scale weights of loaded and unloaded trailer after I launch 
her this spring, but just wanted to check with you. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30 MK1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 121, Issue 38

[Stephen Thorne via CnC-List]

achments/20160210/ef986dc8/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2016 02:52:45 + (UTC)
> From: randy.staff...@comcast.net
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors
> Message-ID:
><414472037.2608189.1455159165092.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> C&C Sailors- 
> 
> I noticed the owner of C&C 30 MK1 hull #1, Rick Bushie, is on this list. It's 
> awesome that boat is still sailing, and that her owner is in this community. 
> 
> The C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 I just bought has a sliding door between the salon and 
> the head, but no door between the head and the v-berth. Some of the C&C 30 
> MK1 brochures (I suspect later ones) show a hinged door between salon and 
> head, and a folding door or double hinged doors between head and v-berth. 
> Does anyone know if the door(s) between head and v-berth were an addition in 
> later hull numbers? Or maybe my boat's doors were removed by a former owner 
> and never replaced. Thanks in advance. 
> 
> Also, Rick, what is the displacement of your boat? Sailboat data.com and the 
> brochures show 8000 pounds. But the previous owner of hull #7 thinks it's 
> higher, like 10,000 pounds. I'll measure her precise displacement by 
> differencing truck scale weights of loaded and unloaded trailer after I 
> launch her this spring, but just wanted to check with you. 
> 
> Cheers, 
> Randy Stafford 
> S/V Grenadine 
> C&C 30 MK1 #7 
> Ken Caryl, CO 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160211/9ea97732/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2016 19:02:02 -0800
> From: Patrick Davin 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" ,
>doug.we...@rogers.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> There's no simple answer to this (it's something you may just have to find
> your own preferences for) but the common answer is around 15 knots - or
> wait till 20 knots, but you'll probably be compensating for over-canvasing
> at that point (traveled way down, dumping wind, pinching up in gusts, etc).
> 
> You can check out this thread from the archives where I asked a similar
> question last year:
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2015-August/077522.html
> 
> I tend to not reef until 20 kts, because in the PNW if it gets to 15-20 kts
> in a northerly (high pressure zone), it's typically only for 10 minutes or
> so, so it's not worth bothering to reef - it'll be back down to its normal
> 10-15 in a few minutes.
> 
> Also makes a big difference whether you have a wind speed instrument or
> not. If not, you're guesstimating wind speed and are going to need to use
> other signs as well - like weather helm.
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
> 
>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 6:00 PM,  wrote:
>> 
>> From: 
>> To: "C&C List" 
>> Cc:
>> Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2016 01:42:17 + (UTC)
>> Subject: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2
>> Can't wait for spring to get out on our (new to us) 33-2. Looking for
>> input on when folks start to reef.
>> 
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Doug
>> 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160210/05fabd02/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2016 03:27:22 + (UTC)
> From: randy.staff...@comcast.net
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?
> Message-ID:
><1890985253.2628041.1455161242621.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> C&C Sailors- 
> 
> The C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 I just bought does not have a boom vang. Perhaps 
> because its boom appears designed for furling the main by rolling it around 
> the outside of the boom. Or perhaps because vangs were not standard equipment 
> on 30-1s (I don't see vangs in the brochures). But in looking at comparables 
> before buying my boat, I did see 30-1s on the market with bangs, boom 
> kickers, etc. 
> 
> Have any 30-1 sailors on this list found it necessary or unnecessary to have 
> a vang? Or necessary to rig something else to keep the boom down? I

Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I have had one of those spring vangs forever. It is nice to have and allowed us 
to get rid of the topping lift.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 9:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

As the owner of 30-1 #593, I strongly recommend a vang. I have a Garhauer solid 
vang with its adjusting line led to the cockpit. It is very useful.

Gary


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 7:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

you need a vang of some sort
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 11:27 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
 wrote:
> C&C Sailors-
>
> The C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 I just bought does not have a boom vang.  
> Perhaps because its boom appears designed for furling the main by 
> rolling it around the outside of the boom.  Or perhaps because vangs 
> were not standard equipment on 30-1s (I don't see vangs in the 
> brochures).  But in looking at comparables before buying my boat, I 
> did see 30-1s on the market with bangs, boom kickers, etc.
>
> Have any 30-1 sailors on this list found it necessary or unnecessary 
> to have a vang?  Or necessary to rig something else to keep the boom 
> down?  I'm worried about the boom pulling up on broad reaches or runs.
> On the other hand, I think it's a fairly heavy boom, and the boom-end 
> sheeting may help to keep it down.  I'd be interested in your comments.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30 MK1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

As the owner of 30-1 #593, I strongly recommend a vang. I have a Garhauer
solid vang with its adjusting line led to the cockpit. It is very useful.

Gary


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 7:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

you need a vang of some sort
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 11:27 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List
 wrote:
> C&C Sailors-
>
> The C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 I just bought does not have a boom vang.  
> Perhaps because its boom appears designed for furling the main by 
> rolling it around the outside of the boom.  Or perhaps because vangs 
> were not standard equipment on 30-1s (I don't see vangs in the 
> brochures).  But in looking at comparables before buying my boat, I 
> did see 30-1s on the market with bangs, boom kickers, etc.
>
> Have any 30-1 sailors on this list found it necessary or unnecessary 
> to have a vang?  Or necessary to rig something else to keep the boom 
> down?  I'm worried about the boom pulling up on broad reaches or runs.  
> On the other hand, I think it's a fairly heavy boom, and the boom-end 
> sheeting may help to keep it down.  I'd be interested in your comments.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30 MK1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

[David via CnC-List]

When you first think of it...

David F. Risch
1981  40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2016 21:53:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: amira...@eastlink.ca





If I am by myself, flying a 130 genoa, I will reef the main at about 15kts, 
makes for a much more comfortable ride. If I’m lazy, I’ll just fly the genoa 
without main and still have plenty speed.
 
Mike Amirault
C&C33ii  Lovely Cruise
St Margarets Bay, NS 
SMSC

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected 
by Avast. www.avast.com


  ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I'm a fan of keeping the boat pretty flat, so I usually reef my 33 at about 
13kn if i know its blowing that before I head out.

If i'm already out, i'll wait until around 15 kn before doing the main but will 
usually furl in the genoa a bit before that.

The wind on Lake Ontario is rarely steady, so a 12-15 kn breeze usually has 
gusts to 18-20.

Mike
Atacama 33mkii 
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

My reply on this would read the same as Rick's.  I still have the crank for
the roller boom but the "C" bail is long gone.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 7:53 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Randy,
>
>
>
> I get the impression that the roller reefing boom was on a number of the
> early 70s C&C models, though whether standard or optional I don’t know.
>
>
>
> My 25 came with a roller reefing boom. It also had a soft vang. Part of
> the gear included a large yellow metal “hoop”, in the top of which was a
> narrow slot (sort of like a big “C” with a small opening) and on either
> side of the slot were 2 plastic rollers. The hoop went around the boom with
> the sail going up through the slot and the top of the soft vang attached at
> the bottom of the hoop.
>
>
>
> Never worked for crap. Which is probably why you don’t see roller reefing
> booms any more.
>
>
>
> I have gone to slab reefing and a rigid Garhauer vang on the 25. But I
> still keep the old “hoop” and the hand crank for the roller reefing on the
> boat as conversation pieces.
>
>
>
> Do you need a vang? Depends on how and where you sail and on personal
> preferences.
>
>
>
> Without a vang, the boom will rise and the leach of the main will twist
> off and spill wind when you are on any point of sail except close hauled.
> The tendency for the boom to rise can be controlled by mainsheet tension,
> but the more off the wind you are (reaching and running) the more rise you
> will get. The boom could be made of depleted uranium and would still not
> significantly stop the process.
>
>
>
> A vang, rigid or soft, controls the rise of the boom and allows you to
> tension the leach for optimum performance. A rigid vang or boom kicker will
> support the boom when the sail is lowered so you can do away with the
> constant irritations of the topping lift – getting tangled in the backstay,
> needing adjustment when you foot off, forgetting to retension when you drop
> sail and having the boom fall into the cockpit, yada yada.
>
>
>
> There was a discussion on the list a couple of weeks ago about the merits
> of various rigid vangs and the Boomkicker. You should search the list
> archives and read it. You would be surprised how many of us on the list
> have a Garhauer rigid vang.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C&C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Randy
> Stafford via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 10, 2016 10:27 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* randy.staff...@comcast.net
> *Subject:* Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?
>
>
>
> C&C Sailors-
>
>
>
> The C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 I just bought does not have a boom vang.  Perhaps
> because its boom appears designed for furling the main by rolling it around
> the outside of the boom.  Or perhaps because vangs were not standard
> equipment on 30-1s (I don't see vangs in the brochures).  But in looking at
> comparables before buying my boat, I did see 30-1s on the market with
> bangs, boom kickers, etc.
>
>
>
> Have any 30-1 sailors on this list found it necessary or unnecessary to
> have a vang?  Or necessary to rig something else to keep the boom down?
> I'm worried about the boom pulling up on broad reaches or runs.  On the
> other hand, I think it's a fairly heavy boom, and the boom-end sheeting may
> help to keep it down.  I'd be interested in your comments.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Randy Stafford
>
> S/V Grenadine
>
> C&C 30 MK1 #7
>
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Randy,

 

I get the impression that the roller reefing boom was on a number of the early 
70s C&C models, though whether standard or optional I don’t know.

 

My 25 came with a roller reefing boom. It also had a soft vang. Part of the 
gear included a large yellow metal “hoop”, in the top of which was a narrow 
slot (sort of like a big “C” with a small opening) and on either side of the 
slot were 2 plastic rollers. The hoop went around the boom with the sail going 
up through the slot and the top of the soft vang attached at the bottom of the 
hoop.

 

Never worked for crap. Which is probably why you don’t see roller reefing booms 
any more.

 

I have gone to slab reefing and a rigid Garhauer vang on the 25. But I still 
keep the old “hoop” and the hand crank for the roller reefing on the boat as 
conversation pieces.

 

Do you need a vang? Depends on how and where you sail and on personal 
preferences.

 

Without a vang, the boom will rise and the leach of the main will twist off and 
spill wind when you are on any point of sail except close hauled. The tendency 
for the boom to rise can be controlled by mainsheet tension, but the more off 
the wind you are (reaching and running) the more rise you will get. The boom 
could be made of depleted uranium and would still not significantly stop the 
process.

 

A vang, rigid or soft, controls the rise of the boom and allows you to tension 
the leach for optimum performance. A rigid vang or boom kicker will support the 
boom when the sail is lowered so you can do away with the constant irritations 
of the topping lift – getting tangled in the backstay, needing adjustment when 
you foot off, forgetting to retension when you drop sail and having the boom 
fall into the cockpit, yada yada.

 

There was a discussion on the list a couple of weeks ago about the merits of 
various rigid vangs and the Boomkicker. You should search the list archives and 
read it. You would be surprised how many of us on the list have a Garhauer 
rigid vang.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 10:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

 

C&C Sailors-

 

The C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 I just bought does not have a boom vang.  Perhaps 
because its boom appears designed for furling the main by rolling it around the 
outside of the boom.  Or perhaps because vangs were not standard equipment on 
30-1s (I don't see vangs in the brochures).  But in looking at comparables 
before buying my boat, I did see 30-1s on the market with bangs, boom kickers, 
etc.

 

Have any 30-1 sailors on this list found it necessary or unnecessary to have a 
vang?  Or necessary to rig something else to keep the boom down?  I'm worried 
about the boom pulling up on broad reaches or runs.  On the other hand, I think 
it's a fairly heavy boom, and the boom-end sheeting may help to keep it down.  
I'd be interested in your comments.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Cheers,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C&C 30 MK1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 30-1 Vang Refit?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

you need a vang of some sort
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 11:27 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List
 wrote:
> C&C Sailors-
>
> The C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 I just bought does not have a boom vang.  Perhaps
> because its boom appears designed for furling the main by rolling it around
> the outside of the boom.  Or perhaps because vangs were not standard
> equipment on 30-1s (I don't see vangs in the brochures).  But in looking at
> comparables before buying my boat, I did see 30-1s on the market with bangs,
> boom kickers, etc.
>
> Have any 30-1 sailors on this list found it necessary or unnecessary to have
> a vang?  Or necessary to rig something else to keep the boom down?  I'm
> worried about the boom pulling up on broad reaches or runs.  On the other
> hand, I think it's a fairly heavy boom, and the boom-end sheeting may help
> to keep it down.  I'd be interested in your comments.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30 MK1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Are we talking true or apparent wind speeds with respect to when to reef?

If I am just out for an easy cruise which I start before noon with the
full main and 130 RF genoa, often times rather than reef the main I
just get rid of the furling genoa when the afternoon wind pipes up.
When the wind approaches 18-20 kts apparent my 35 MKII is really
comfortable under main alone and gets close to 6 kts to weather,
that's nice cruising with no jib sheets to mess up the cockpit,
especially convenient with new comers on board who may not appreciate
higher angles of heel or for 2 old guys just looking to enjoy the day
going nowhere special, just the boat sailing us around by itself with
minimal input from me, All sail control like tacking and jibing is
much easier under main alone...Robert and I do this often, we are the
2 old guys just looking to enjoy the day.

If f I want to get that extra power and pointing ability from the
genoa I find reefing the main (1st reef) is a benefit above 17 kts
apparent...Alianna is set up for reefing from the cockpit...contrary
to some approaches I prefer to stay in the cockpit so I have all sail
control lines led aft except for spinn halyard but even with that I am
sometimes lazy and go with a fisherman's reef or just foot off to a
more pleasant rdie
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 11:02 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List
 wrote:
> There's no simple answer to this (it's something you may just have to find
> your own preferences for) but the common answer is around 15 knots - or wait
> till 20 knots, but you'll probably be compensating for over-canvasing at
> that point (traveled way down, dumping wind, pinching up in gusts, etc).
>
> You can check out this thread from the archives where I asked a similar
> question last year:
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2015-August/077522.html
>
> I tend to not reef until 20 kts, because in the PNW if it gets to 15-20 kts
> in a northerly (high pressure zone), it's typically only for 10 minutes or
> so, so it's not worth bothering to reef - it'll be back down to its normal
> 10-15 in a few minutes.
>
> Also makes a big difference whether you have a wind speed instrument or not.
> If not, you're guesstimating wind speed and are going to need to use other
> signs as well - like weather helm.
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
>
> On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 6:00 PM,  wrote:
>>
>> From: 
>> To: "C&C List" 
>> Cc:
>> Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2016 01:42:17 + (UTC)
>> Subject: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2
>> Can't wait for spring to get out on our (new to us) 33-2. Looking for
>> input on when folks start to reef.
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Doug
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Post to list

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Congrats!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Feb 10, 2016 8:10 PM, "Alan Liles via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> The deal just closed. I'm the new owner of C&C 37/40+ Elendil out of
> Victoria.
>
> Cheers, Al
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com