Re: Stus-List Lightning

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Check the receive side of nearby VHF radios.

Dennis C.
On Feb 27, 2016 6:30 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good evening.  Last summer my neighbour's Aloha 27 took a lightning strike
> to the masthead which fried the VHF antenna (and VHF), cooked the antenna
> wire quick connect but caused no other visible damage.   Small strike
> perhaps. Luckily I suffered no damage from the strike 8 feet away.
> Has any of you been struck before? What was the damage and what if any
> protection was in place.  Typical  of C Wild Rover has a couple of fat
> welding cables running from chainplate to keel bolt but as I understand it,
> all lightning protection is theoretical at best.
>
> Cheers
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on sale at harbor freight

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Rick, 
She has a house bank of 3 group 27s and a starting battery. 
Maybe I should just get a solar panel now.  I had a small one I would hook up 
when leaving the boat on lolita.  
I also understand keeping your batteries topped up prolongs their life. 
We usually use the boat every weekend and do weekends on her here and there and 
then, we plan on doing maybe 2 one week cruises around the islands here.  We do 
have a refer and use lights,  charging tablets and phones.  Just your regular 
convenience type usage. 
Danny


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Rick 
Brass via CnC-List  Date: 2/27/2016  7:48 PM  
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on saleat  
harbor  freight 
Danny; How long will your boat be left on the mooring between uses? I have a 
house bank of (4) group 27 deep cycles (460AH when they were new in 2011, 
probably less now), and a 95AH deep cycle battery for a start bank. I almost 
always leave the switch so the house bank is powering the bilge pump, and 
usually forget to switch to the start battery to start the engine…. and 
frequently forget to switch to “ALL” when the engine is running and charge the 
start battery. I rarely plug into shore power, so the only charging is from the 
engine during the 30 minutes or so it takes to get sails up and to get out of 
the channel. For the most part the boat gets used on an average of once every 
two weeks – though it may go for two months or more in spring and fall, and 
when I’m busy with other commitments in the summer.  And the boat has never 
failed to start. Thinking back to recent use, I ran the engine for a couple of 
hours in mid-September when returning from a charity regatta. Then the boat sat 
until a day sail in mid-October, when it got about an hour of run time. The day 
after Thanksgiving I ran the engine for about 10 minutes when I moved the boat 
to a different slip for the Christmas display. Then about 10 minutes on the day 
after New Years to get it back to the regular slip. I took a friend and his son 
out for a day sail on February 17th (55 degrees F feels like winter to me. My 
friend and his son were in shorts and flip flops. 55 degrees must feel like 
early summer to folks from New Hampshire.) and the batteries were showing 12.6v 
when I went to the boat that day. You may be overly worried about the need to 
maintain the batteries, unless you are letting the boat sit for months at a 
time or you are powering your bilge pump from the start bank.  And if 
maintaining the batteries is your only reason for the generator, you might 
think about getting one of those battery chargers with a boost feature for jump 
starting the engine. It would be a lot cheaper and a lot more portable than the 
generator. Rick BrassWashington, NC   From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2016 5:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on sale at harbor freight 
No way I'm dragging 2 group 27s in and out of the dink every time I go out.   
Wouldn't be long before one ended up in the drink. ..  lol Danny   Sent from my 
T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: "Dennis C. via 
CnC-List"  Date: 2/27/2016 4:19 PM (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Dennis C."  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on sale at harbor freight  Buy 2 extra 
batteries, take them home, charge them, swap them out.  Repeat.  Half the price 
of the generator.Dennis C.On Feb 27, 2016 10:08 AM, "Danny Haughey via 
CnC-List"  wrote:Well,  I'm mostly interested in a way 
of keeping batteries typed up.   I'll be keeping the boat on a mooring.   
Ideally I'd install a properly designed solar charging system but I'm trying to 
kick that can down the road.  Danny  ___

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Re: Stus-List Macgyver 2

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Its in the catalog   Morse makes it.

On Saturday, February 27, 2016, Brian Fry via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you have a link it would be greatly appreciated, for I cannot find the
> right size.
>
> From: Joel Aronson  >
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> " <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Macgyver 2
> Message-ID:
>
>
> Brian
> Defender has the size you need.
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Macgyver2

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

If you have a link it would be greatly appreciated, for I cannot find the
right size.

From: Joel Aronson 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Macgyver 2
Message-ID:


Brian
Defender has the size you need.
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Stus-List Lightning

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Good evening.  Last summer my neighbour's Aloha 27 took a lightning strike to 
the masthead which fried the VHF antenna (and VHF), cooked the antenna wire 
quick connect but caused no other visible damage.   Small strike perhaps. 
Luckily I suffered no damage from the strike 8 feet away. 
Has any of you been struck before? What was the damage and what if any 
protection was in place.  Typical  of C Wild Rover has a couple of fat 
welding cables running from chainplate to keel bolt but as I understand it, all 
lightning protection is theoretical at best.  

Cheers
Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on sale at harbor freight

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Danny;

 

How long will your boat be left on the mooring between uses?

 

I have a house bank of (4) group 27 deep cycles (460AH when they were new in 
2011, probably less now), and a 95AH deep cycle battery for a start bank. I 
almost always leave the switch so the house bank is powering the bilge pump, 
and usually forget to switch to the start battery to start the engine…. and 
frequently forget to switch to “ALL” when the engine is running and charge the 
start battery. I rarely plug into shore power, so the only charging is from the 
engine during the 30 minutes or so it takes to get sails up and to get out of 
the channel. For the most part the boat gets used on an average of once every 
two weeks – though it may go for two months or more in spring and fall, and 
when I’m busy with other commitments in the summer. 

 

And the boat has never failed to start.

 

Thinking back to recent use, I ran the engine for a couple of hours in 
mid-September when returning from a charity regatta. Then the boat sat until a 
day sail in mid-October, when it got about an hour of run time. The day after 
Thanksgiving I ran the engine for about 10 minutes when I moved the boat to a 
different slip for the Christmas display. Then about 10 minutes on the day 
after New Years to get it back to the regular slip. I took a friend and his son 
out for a day sail on February 17th (55 degrees F feels like winter to me. My 
friend and his son were in shorts and flip flops. 55 degrees must feel like 
early summer to folks from New Hampshire.) and the batteries were showing 12.6v 
when I went to the boat that day.

 

You may be overly worried about the need to maintain the batteries, unless you 
are letting the boat sit for months at a time or you are powering your bilge 
pump from the start bank. 

 

And if maintaining the batteries is your only reason for the generator, you 
might think about getting one of those battery chargers with a boost feature 
for jump starting the engine. It would be a lot cheaper and a lot more portable 
than the generator.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2016 5:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on sale at harbor freight

 

No way I'm dragging 2 group 27s in and out of the dink every time I go out.   
Wouldn't be long before one ended up in the drink. ..  lol

 

Danny

 

 

 

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

 Original message 

From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  > 

Date: 2/27/2016 4:19 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: "Dennis C."  > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on sale at harbor freight 

 

Buy 2 extra batteries, take them home, charge them, swap them out.  Repeat.  
Half the price of the generator.

Dennis C.

On Feb 27, 2016 10:08 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List"  > wrote:

Well,  I'm mostly interested in a way of keeping batteries typed up.   I'll be 
keeping the boat on a mooring.   Ideally I'd install a properly designed solar 
charging system but I'm trying to kick that can down the road. 

 

Danny

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Macgyver 2

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Brian;

 

Take a look back in the list archive for this thread. I could swear that 
someone posted a source and a part number for the 1 ¼ x 1 5/8 cutless bearing 
you need three or four days ago. 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Fry 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2016 6:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Fry 
Subject: Stus-List Macgyver 2

 

So this is what I ended up with:
MacGyver part 2 
http://imgur.com/LD5A3De

It is really slow going. I managed to get about 1/2 inch out to take a 
measurement. It is definitely 1 5/8"
1 5/8 diameter outside 
http://imgur.com/970E1vR

I will probably cut it out now.
Thinking I will have to sleeve a 1 1/4 × 1 1/2 with a 1 1/2 × 1 5/8 
Anyone know a machine shop in the Chesapeake area?

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Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

The correct approach in my opinion. I always figured that the whole point to 
having straight pipe threads in the first place was so that you could make 
something like a compression flange fitting in one part and then cut a regular 
tapered thread on the end. 
Makes a lot of sense for tanks, and a boat is kind of like an inside out tank. 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL



 Russ & Melody via CnC-List  wrote: 

In a re-fit many years ago I looked for replacement thru-hulls.

After not having success finding a replacement I 
got a NPT cutter head for a 'Rigid' pipe 
threading machine, from the local rental shop. 
You can adjust the "bite" of the cutter so I 
started off loose and cut some taper threads by 
hand. With the replacement ball valve nearby I 
kept at it until there was the desired fit. After 
the first one the rest were easy.

So, now my C original thru-hulls, which were in good shape, are taper thread.

 Cheers, Russ
 Sweet 35 mk-1
 Vancouver Island


At 08:33 PM 26/02/2016, you wrote:
>I think finding bronze NPS (straight) threaded 
>ball valves is a difficult task. For example, 
>every single valve sold by Defender is NPT (taper).
>
>
>From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
>Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 3:02 PM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Cc: Rick Brass
>Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1
>
>Joe;
>
>The bad news is I don’t believe that anyone 
>makes the flush thru hulls used on our classic 
>C anymore. All the ones I have seen are a 
>smaller OD than the recesses in our hulls.
>
>The good news is that you rarely need to replace 
>a bronze thru hull. You just need one of the 
>thru hull step wrenches shown on page 118 of the 
>Buck Algonquin catalog and a strong helper to 
>hold the step wrench on the outside of the boat 
>while you remove the old valve from the threads 
>of the existing thru hull from inside the hull. 
>(you can also buy one at Lowes or Home Depot, 
>but it is called a plumber’s step wrench or something similar)
>
>Both my boats came with brass gate valves on 
>most of the thru hulls, instead of proper 
>seacocks. When I got my 25, back in 1994, I 
>launched into replacing the gate valves, 
>starting with the cockpit scuppers. I screwed up 
>both the thru hulls because of my ignorance, and 
>had a heck of a time finding a flush thru hull 
>to replace the ones I had to cut out of the hull.
>
>I finally found a pair of thru hulls at a 
>chandlery in NJ, across the river from Philly – 
>a place sort of like an OLD hardware store with 
>lots of out of date hardware in stock. (Don’t 
>you love poking around in those sort of places?) 
>And the guy at the chandlery explained how you 
>are supposed to get the old valve off the thru 
>hull without damaging the thru hull. Once I 
>bought the wrench, replacing all the valves was pretty straight forward.
>
>BTW, the thru hulls should be bronze, not brass. 
>And the seacocks should be either bronze or 
>Marlon. You don’t want to use brass if you are 
>in salt or brackish water. Thru hulls come with 
>straight threads. So do proper seacocks. Most of 
>my thru hulls were clamped to the wood backing 
>plates with a nut, so I did not have to use 
>seacocks with a flange on them. But I have 
>learned that ball valves intended for plumbing 
>come with tapered threads, so I had to make sure 
>I ordered ball valves with straight threads that 
>matched the threads on the thru hull.
>
>Rick Brass
>Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
>la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
>Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>From: CnC-List 
>[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List
>Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 12:59 PM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Cc: Joel Aronson 
>Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1
>
>Try here:
>
>http://www.buckalgonquin.com/pdf/catalog.pdf
>
>The company is near us.
>
>Joel
>
>On Fri, Feb 26, 2016 at 12:52 PM, Joe at 
>Zialater via CnC-List 
><cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>I am trying to find the mfg. for the cockpit drain brass thru hulls on my
>1975 30 MK1.
>
>They are flush to the bottom of the hull and have a flange diameter of 3.5
>inches and a 1.25 inch hole.  I have tried Groco and Perko but neither has
>the correct size although they both have brass flush mount versions.
>
>Does anyone have a suggestion on where I might find the original
>replacement.  I would hate to have to modify the hole or use epoxy to make a
>non-original thru hull fit.
>
>Thanks for any ideas on this.
>
>Joe
>
>Zia - 1975 C 30 MK1
>Annapolis
>
>
>
>___
>
>Email address:
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>To change your list preferences, including 
>unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:

Stus-List Macgyver 2

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

So this is what I ended up with:
MacGyver part 2
http://imgur.com/LD5A3De

It is really slow going. I managed to get about 1/2 inch out to take a
measurement. It is definitely 1 5/8"
1 5/8 diameter outside
http://imgur.com/970E1vR

I will probably cut it out now.
Thinking I will have to sleeve a 1 1/4 × 1 1/2 with a 1 1/2 × 1 5/8
Anyone know a machine shop in the Chesapeake area?
___

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Re: Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on sale at harbor freight

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

No way I'm dragging 2 group 27s in and out of the dink every time I go out.   
Wouldn't be long before one ended up in the drink. ..  lol
Danny


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: 
"Dennis C. via CnC-List"  Date: 2/27/2016  4:19 PM  
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Dennis C."  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on sale at harbor  freight 
Buy 2 extra batteries, take them home, charge them, swap them out.  Repeat.  
Half the price of the generator.
Dennis C.
On Feb 27, 2016 10:08 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List"  
wrote:
Well,  I'm mostly interested in a way of keeping batteries typed up.   I'll be 
keeping the boat on a mooring.   Ideally I'd install a properly designed solar 
charging system but I'm trying to kick that can down the road. 
Danny


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Ken 
Heaton via CnC-List  Date: 2/27/2016  11:22 AM  
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list  Cc: Ken Heaton 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on 
sale at harbor  freight 
As Josh stated, it is not the same as a marinized, built in diesel genset.  But 
it is only $400.00
It really depends on what you want to do with it.
Run your AC?  I don't think so.  Charge your batteries through your onboard 
battery charger as you are away from shore power?  Yes, it will do that.  Run a 
few power tools while you are doing some work on the boat at a mooring or at 
anchor?  Yes, it will do that too.
Honda was the first to make these small inverter generators and theirs are 
reasonably quiet, though you probably won't make any friends running this in a 
silent anchorage at night.  If you have to sit i on deck you will find it 
noisier below that above as the deck is like a soundboard.  If you can leave it 
on the dock while it is running you will likely find it to be quiet.
This one does seem to output 12 DC, 8 amps, directly.  Look at the photos on 
the website.
What did you want to do with it / use it for?
Ken H.
On 27 February 2016 at 12:07, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:
I have a similar one.  They work.  They are also loud and use gasoline instead 
of diesel.  It's a pull start only.  They don't offer a 12v output.  They are 
not marinized, flame arrested or corrosion proof/resistant to the level needed 
for long term marine use.  They are also air cooled and exhaust to the air 
which means absolutely no inside use unlike a properly installed marine 
generator.  2200 running watts is likely to be 10amps @ 220v or 20 amps at 
110v.  Not likely to be on par with your shore power.  You may struggle if 
running HVAC. 
Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD
On Feb 27, 2016 10:34 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List"  
wrote:
Hi guys, Just saw an ad in my email this generator

2500 Peak/2200 Running Watts, 4.7 HP (125cc) Portable Inverter Generator EPA III
Is on sale for $399 with coupon code. 
Anyone have any thoughts on it? 
Danny
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
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Re: Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on sale at harbor freight

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Buy 2 extra batteries, take them home, charge them, swap them out.
Repeat.  Half the price of the generator.

Dennis C.
On Feb 27, 2016 10:08 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Well,  I'm mostly interested in a way of keeping batteries typed up.
> I'll be keeping the boat on a mooring.   Ideally I'd install a properly
> designed solar charging system but I'm trying to kick that can down the
> road.
>
> Danny
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>  Original message 
> From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
> Date: 2/27/2016 11:22 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Ken Heaton 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on sale at harbor
> freight
>
> As Josh stated, it is not the same as a marinized, built in diesel
> genset.  But it is only $400.00
>
> It really depends on what you want to do with it.
>
> Run your AC?  I don't think so.  Charge your batteries through your
> onboard battery charger as you are away from shore power?  Yes, it will do
> that.  Run a few power tools while you are doing some work on the boat at a
> mooring or at anchor?  Yes, it will do that too.
>
> Honda was the first to make these small inverter generators and theirs are
> reasonably quiet, though you probably won't make any friends running this
> in a silent anchorage at night.  If you have to sit i on deck you will find
> it noisier below that above as the deck is like a soundboard.  If you can
> leave it on the dock while it is running you will likely find it to be
> quiet.
>
> This one does seem to output 12 DC, 8 amps, directly.  Look at the photos
> on the website.
>
> What did you want to do with it / use it for?
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 27 February 2016 at 12:07, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a similar one.  They work.  They are also loud and use gasoline
>> instead of diesel.  It's a pull start only.  They don't offer a 12v
>> output.  They are not marinized, flame arrested or corrosion
>> proof/resistant to the level needed for long term marine use.  They are
>> also air cooled and exhaust to the air which means absolutely no inside use
>> unlike a properly installed marine generator.  2200 running watts is likely
>> to be 10amps @ 220v or 20 amps at 110v.  Not likely to be on par with your
>> shore power.  You may struggle if running HVAC.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> On Feb 27, 2016 10:34 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi guys,
>>> Just saw an ad in my email this generator
>>>
>>>
>>> 2500 Peak/2200 Running Watts, 4.7 HP (125cc) Portable Inverter Generator
>>> EPA III
>>>
>>> Is on sale for $399 with coupon code.
>>>
>>> Anyone have any thoughts on it?
>>>
>>> Danny
>>>
>>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
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>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[robert via CnC-List]

I have two Group 27 deep cycle batteries ( 8 year old Great 
Northern's)..have left them on the boat from day onejust checked 
them today, both were 12.5V.gave them a short charge (2 beers, one 
beer, one battery charge).


Another club member, with Group 27's (don't know the brand)  are now 12 
years old and are keeping a charge.


When they can't hold their charge, (amp hours) they get replacednot 
before then.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2016-02-27 3:07 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List wrote:
Our 33 MkII has 2 group 27 deep cycle batteries that are 10 and 12 yrs 
old, still starting and looking after the refrigerator, stereo, radio 
and nav lights on "extended" day sails. We're always plugged in when 
at dock. We select one battery for starting and the other for running 
accessories, and alternate each sail day.

Batteries need to be covered! Beyond that I can't help you much.
Brad
Pulse C 33 MkII
Lake Huron



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Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I tried Interstate batteries years ago.  Lasted 14 months.

Went back to Delco Voyagers.  Routinely get 7 plus years out of the
Voyagers.

Probe around the fishing sites.  You'll find lots of positive reviews on
Voyagers by bass fishermen who love them.

Dennis C.
On Feb 27, 2016 11:20 AM, "Doug Welch via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Our new (to us) 33-2 has a couple of Surette Group 27 Deep Cycle Batteries
> of indeterminate age in plastic battery boxes with no lid and a Canadian
> Tire 22NF starting Battery (In what looks like a home made wooden battery
> box).
>
> My first instinct is to replace the deep cycles with Interstates and
> upgrade the 22NF to a Group 25 Marine Starter Battery in proper battery
> boxes (I have seen first hand how quickly a dropped wrench landing on
> exposed 12v battery terminals can go very bad).
>
> The charger is a relatively new looking Professional Mariner ProSport 20
> Heavy-Duty Marine Battery Charger. Both banks are monitored by a cruising
> equipment company e-meter.
>
> My questions are
> 1. Does anyone have 2 G27s and a G25? Is there room?
> 2. Someone told me the Surette are very good batteries with longer than
> average life and I shouldn't be in a hurry to replace them. Experience ?
> Thoughts?
> 3. Anything else from your experience I should be thinking about?
>
> Cheers,
> Doug
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[Doug Welch via CnC-List]

absolutely agree about keeping batteries covered. a friend of mine dropped a 
wrench that shorted out the terminals. it very quickly glowed red, welded 
itself to the terminals and caught fire. only quick work with a fire 
extinguisher save the boat.  

On Saturday, February 27, 2016 2:08 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Our 33 MkII has 2 group 27 deep cycle batteries that are 10 and 12 yrs old, 
still starting and looking after the refrigerator, stereo, radio and nav lights 
on "extended" day sails. We're always plugged in when at dock. We select one 
battery for starting and the other for running accessories, and alternate each 
sail day. Batteries need to be covered! Beyond that I can't help you much.Brad 
Pulse C 33 MkIILake Huron

I'd rather be sailing

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Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

IMO, 5200 doesn't belong anywhere near a thru-hull.  If mine had been put in 
with 5200 I doubt I would have been able to get them out to replace the 
backing plates. And since (as I have said) they were in poor condition they 
had to come out. As it was with a Groco step wrench and a bit of heat 
applied (heat gun) they backed out easily. What wasn't easy was the 
retaining nut. There was also no way, no how, no possibility of getting the 
retaining nut off the back without cutting it off.


-Original Message- 
From: Joe at Zialater via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2016 10:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe at Zialater
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

Thanks so much for all the info Rick.

I have some Groco flushmount thru hulls that will fit the hole but have a
flange diameter that is smaller than the originals (whatever brand they
might be).  I also have the Groco ball valves that fit on the thru hulls and
will work fine for the drains.  The current plan is to install the new
smaller diameter flanges and fill in the 1/4 inch gap with epoxy or maybe
even 5200.  Then paint over it and forget it!

Thanks Joel for the buckalgonquin link - they have flushmount thru hulls as
well but they are essentially the same size as the Grocos.




"Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Forespar make Marlon ball valves with NPS threads in sizes from ?? to 1 ??.
(They also make ball valves with NPT, but NPT valves are for plumbing and
not thru hulls.) They also supply a range of tailpieces to connect the valve
to a hose.


Here is a link to the listing on West Marine:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/forespar--marelon-ball-valves-tailpieces--P011
_332_003_009

In addition, there is a regional marine supply wholesaler called the Paxton
Company in my area (in Norfolk and Wilmington, NC), and if I recall
correctly the bronze valves I used came from there. So bronze ball valves
with NPS are available, if a bit hard to come by.



I suspect that most of the time a flanged seacock gets used instead of
installing a nut on the seacock to secure it to the hull and a separate ball
valve above the nut. The bronze seacocks aren?t a lot more expensive than a
bronze valve. And BTW, on the WM site they have a flange (Groco I think)
with NPS on the bottom and a pipe thread coming off the top.



When I redid the plumbing on my 38 a few years ago, I used Marlon valves for
the larger thru hulls ? 1? and larger if I recall. The Marlon valves are
designed for some ridiculous number of cycles, tested for impact and gear to
hit them with lateral impact, you can actually stand on them, they never
corrode, and they are about half the cost of a bronze seacock. Maybe I?m
just being cheap, but I?m also pretty satisfied.





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Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Surette (Rolls in the USA) are very good batteries (perhaps the best wet
batteries out there) with longer than average life (and higher than average
prices to match) and you shouldn't be in a hurry to replace them unless you
are sure they have been damaged.

Ken H.

Established in 1935, Surrette Battery Company Limited is proud to be one of
North America’s leading lead-acid battery producers and Canada’s only
remaining independent battery manufacturer.  Located in Springhill, Nova
Scotia, we produce a wide range of Rolls-branded premium deep cycle
batteries for use in Renewable Energy, Marine, Motive Power and Railroad
applications.  Rolls flooded and sealed AGM VRLA products are
internationally recognized for their dependability, outstanding quality and
industry-leading manufacturer warranties.

http://rollsbattery.com/marine/

On 27 February 2016 at 15:07, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Our 33 MkII has 2 group 27 deep cycle batteries that are 10 and 12 yrs
> old, still starting and looking after the refrigerator, stereo, radio and
> nav lights on "extended" day sails. We're always plugged in when at dock.
> We select one battery for starting and the other for running accessories,
> and alternate each sail day.
> Batteries need to be covered! Beyond that I can't help you much.
> Brad
> Pulse C 33 MkII
> Lake Huron
>
> I'd rather be sailing
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

My posts not going through or what??  Because there seems to be a whole lot of 
repetition of info happening here.

From: Peter Fell 
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 3:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

We just had a discussion here on the listserv early February on exactly the 
same question for exactly the same boat. So I’d suggest searching your inbox 
(or archives) for that thread.

But I’ll reiterate my experience when I did this a couple years ago on my 27 
... I didn’t find any flush mount thru-hull that had the same size flange and 
my existing ones were not in a condition that I wanted to reuse them. So, yes, 
I epoxy-filled the ‘cups’ left behind by the old flush-mounts and installed 
Groco mushroom-style thru-hulls and matching ball valves. I used marine plywood 
for the backing plates, shaped to fit the curvature of the hull and 
epoxy-coated. Bedded in Sikaflex 291 (think that was the one).

At the time I did not go the route of using the matching Groco flange adapter 
bases with either studs (requires a fiberglass backing plate) or through-bolt 
(can use wood backing plate) but the Groco thru-hulls are tapered threads so 
that you get a decent amount of thread engagement with the valve. I don’t think 
thru-hulls from most other manufacturers are tapered so you might be running 
with only 2 or 3 threads of engagement. Same potentially for the original C 
thru-hulls.

I may actually go back and retro-fit with the flange adapters for the cockpit 
drains and engine intake since they are in the area of the boat most prone to 
potential damage, that the much more robust flange adapter would protect 
against.

Good resource is the pbase articles from compass marine.

Another thing I didn’t do  install a stainless Zerk Grease Gun Fitting 
(1/8-27 thread) on each valve (there’s a drain hole on the Grocos). This let’s 
you grease the ball valves without pulling the boat. Groco recommends using Dow 
Corning MolyCote 111 (silicone based) – that’s what they use in the factory.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 9:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

Try here: 

http://www.buckalgonquin.com/pdf/catalog.pdf


The company is near us.

Joel

On Fri, Feb 26, 2016 at 12:52 PM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  I am trying to find the mfg. for the cockpit drain brass thru hulls on my
  1975 30 MK1.

  They are flush to the bottom of the hull and have a flange diameter of 3.5
  inches and a 1.25 inch hole.  I have tried Groco and Perko but neither has
  the correct size although they both have brass flush mount versions.

  Does anyone have a suggestion on where I might find the original
  replacement.  I would hate to have to modify the hole or use epoxy to make a
  non-original thru hull fit.

  Thanks for any ideas on this.

  Joe

  Zia - 1975 C 30 MK1
  Annapolis



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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551



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Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

Our 33 MkII has 2 group 27 deep cycle batteries that are 10 and 12 yrs old, 
still starting and looking after the refrigerator, stereo, radio and nav lights 
on "extended" day sails. We're always plugged in when at dock. We select one 
battery for starting and the other for running accessories, and alternate each 
sail day. 
Batteries need to be covered! Beyond that I can't help you much.
Brad 
Pulse C 33 MkII
Lake Huron


I'd rather be sailing

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Stus-List BC RDV

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Jim

Let me know if there's anything you'd like some help with.  I  don't have a 
fancy video collage like our East coast brethren, but I do have a set of pics 
from 2015 if you want them.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Feb 27, 2016, at 10:39 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2016 09:26:09 -0800
> From: Jim Watts 
> To: 1 CnC List 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List BC RDV
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> We're getting going on it for the 2016 RDV, new website up soon.
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on sale at harbor freight

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

You'll be able to charge up on the hook/mooring with your engine.  If you
aren't able to be there regularly I suspect you could last easily up to 2
months without a charge.  The bilge pump would be the single most likely
load.  If it drains your battery you probably have bigger problems to worry
about.

Assuming that you have lead acid batteries and that they amount to a bank
of 400 Ah then the highest charge current you could use is 100 amps.
Assuming that you didn't discharge greater than 50% then it would take you
absolutely no less than 2 hours to get to full charge.  This doesn't even
include the absorption phase of charging.  There is a reasonable likelihood
that you have an alternator and charge controller on your boat that nears
100 amps.  If not, then your $399 would be better spent on an upgrade.  IMO.

So that a run away bilge pump doesn't kill your batteries between visits,
you might want to consider a "priority start" or ensure that you have a
dedicated starting battery.  The priority start is a device that separates
your small electrical loads once a low battery voltage condition is
reached.  The low resistance of the starter reconnects the battery during
an attempted engine start.  These devices were developed to prevent killing
your car battery by leaving the headlights on.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Feb 27, 2016 12:08 PM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Well,  I'm mostly interested in a way of keeping batteries typed up.
> I'll be keeping the boat on a mooring.   Ideally I'd install a properly
> designed solar charging system but I'm trying to kick that can down the
> road.
>
> Danny
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>  Original message 
> From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
> Date: 2/27/2016 11:22 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Ken Heaton 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on sale at harbor
> freight
>
> As Josh stated, it is not the same as a marinized, built in diesel
> genset.  But it is only $400.00
>
> It really depends on what you want to do with it.
>
> Run your AC?  I don't think so.  Charge your batteries through your
> onboard battery charger as you are away from shore power?  Yes, it will do
> that.  Run a few power tools while you are doing some work on the boat at a
> mooring or at anchor?  Yes, it will do that too.
>
> Honda was the first to make these small inverter generators and theirs are
> reasonably quiet, though you probably won't make any friends running this
> in a silent anchorage at night.  If you have to sit i on deck you will find
> it noisier below that above as the deck is like a soundboard.  If you can
> leave it on the dock while it is running you will likely find it to be
> quiet.
>
> This one does seem to output 12 DC, 8 amps, directly.  Look at the photos
> on the website.
>
> What did you want to do with it / use it for?
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 27 February 2016 at 12:07, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a similar one.  They work.  They are also loud and use gasoline
>> instead of diesel.  It's a pull start only.  They don't offer a 12v
>> output.  They are not marinized, flame arrested or corrosion
>> proof/resistant to the level needed for long term marine use.  They are
>> also air cooled and exhaust to the air which means absolutely no inside use
>> unlike a properly installed marine generator.  2200 running watts is likely
>> to be 10amps @ 220v or 20 amps at 110v.  Not likely to be on par with your
>> shore power.  You may struggle if running HVAC.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> On Feb 27, 2016 10:34 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi guys,
>>> Just saw an ad in my email this generator
>>>
>>>
>>> 2500 Peak/2200 Running Watts, 4.7 HP (125cc) Portable Inverter Generator
>>> EPA III
>>>
>>> Is on sale for $399 with coupon code.
>>>
>>> Anyone have any thoughts on it?
>>>
>>> Danny
>>>
>>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Email address:

Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[Doug Welch via CnC-List]

Our new (to us) 33-2 has a couple of Surette Group 27 Deep Cycle Batteries of 
indeterminate age in plastic battery boxes with no lid and a Canadian Tire 22NF 
starting Battery (In what looks like a home made wooden battery box). 
My first instinct is to replace the deep cycles with Interstates and upgrade 
the 22NF to a Group 25 Marine Starter Battery in proper battery boxes (I have 
seen first hand how quickly a dropped wrench landing on exposed 12v battery 
terminals can go very bad).
The charger is a relatively new looking Professional Mariner ProSport 20 
Heavy-Duty Marine Battery Charger. Both banks are monitored by a cruising 
equipment company e-meter.
My questions are 1. Does anyone have 2 G27s and a G25? Is there room?2. Someone 
told me the Surette are very good batteries with longer than average life and I 
shouldn't be in a hurry to replace them. Experience ? Thoughts?3. Anything else 
from your experience I should be thinking about?
Cheers,Doug ___

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Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Forespar make Marlon ball valves with NPS threads in sizes from ½” to 1 ½”. 
(They also make ball valves with NPT, but NPT valves are for plumbing and not 
thru hulls.) They also supply a range of tailpieces to connect the valve to a 
hose.

 

Here is a link to the listing on West Marine: 
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/forespar--marelon-ball-valves-tailpieces--P011_332_003_009

 

In addition, there is a regional marine supply wholesaler called the Paxton 
Company in my area (in Norfolk and Wilmington, NC), and if I recall correctly 
the bronze valves I used came from there. So bronze ball valves with NPS are 
available, if a bit hard to come by. 

 

I suspect that most of the time a flanged seacock gets used instead of 
installing a nut on the seacock to secure it to the hull and a separate ball 
valve above the nut. The bronze seacocks aren’t a lot more expensive than a 
bronze valve. And BTW, on the WM site they have a flange (Groco I think) with 
NPS on the bottom and a pipe thread coming off the top.

 

When I redid the plumbing on my 38 a few years ago, I used Marlon valves for 
the larger thru hulls – 1” and larger if I recall. The Marlon valves are 
designed for some ridiculous number of cycles, tested for impact and gear to 
hit them with lateral impact, you can actually stand on them, they never 
corrode, and they are about half the cost of a bronze seacock. Maybe I’m just 
being cheap, but I’m also pretty satisfied.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Fell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 11:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Fell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

 

I think finding bronze NPS (straight) threaded ball valves is a difficult task. 
For example, every single valve sold by Defender is NPT (taper).

 

 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List   

Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 3:02 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Rick Brass   

Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

 

Joe;

 

The bad news is I don’t believe that anyone makes the flush thru hulls used on 
our classic C anymore. All the ones I have seen are a smaller OD than the 
recesses in our hulls.

 

The good news is that you rarely need to replace a bronze thru hull. You just 
need one of the thru hull step wrenches shown on page 118 of the Buck Algonquin 
catalog and a strong helper to hold the step wrench on the outside of the boat 
while you remove the old valve from the threads of the existing thru hull from 
inside the hull. (you can also buy one at Lowes or Home Depot, but it is called 
a plumber’s step wrench or something similar)

 

Both my boats came with brass gate valves on most of the thru hulls, instead of 
proper seacocks. When I got my 25, back in 1994, I launched into replacing the 
gate valves, starting with the cockpit scuppers. I screwed up both the thru 
hulls because of my ignorance, and had a heck of a time finding a flush thru 
hull to replace the ones I had to cut out of the hull. 

 

I finally found a pair of thru hulls at a chandlery in NJ, across the river 
from Philly – a place sort of like an OLD hardware store with lots of out of 
date hardware in stock. (Don’t you love poking around in those sort of places?) 
And the guy at the chandlery explained how you are supposed to get the old 
valve off the thru hull without damaging the thru hull. Once I bought the 
wrench, replacing all the valves was pretty straight forward.

 

BTW, the thru hulls should be bronze, not brass. And the seacocks should be 
either bronze or Marlon. You don’t want to use brass if you are in salt or 
brackish water. Thru hulls come with straight threads. So do proper seacocks. 
Most of my thru hulls were clamped to the wood backing plates with a nut, so I 
did not have to use seacocks with a flange on them. But I have learned that 
ball valves intended for plumbing come with tapered threads, so I had to make 
sure I ordered ball valves with straight threads that matched the threads on 
the thru hull.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Joel Aronson  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

 

Try here:

 

http://www.buckalgonquin.com/pdf/catalog.pdf

 

The company is near us.

 

Joel

 

On Fri, Feb 26, 2016 at 12:52 PM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

I am trying to find the mfg. for the cockpit drain brass thru hulls on my
1975 30 MK1.

They are flush to the 

Re: Stus-List BC RDV

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Not bad…. It’s no www.cncnortheast.com , but not 
bad :-)

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 





On Feb 27, 2016, at 9:26 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
wrote:

We're getting going on it for the 2016 RDV, new website up soon. 

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 26 February 2016 at 22:15, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List > wrote:
Here's the web site http://members.shaw.ca/cncrdv/ 


It is usually the first full weekend in August at Telegraph Harbor Marina on 
Thetis Island.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200 


Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200 


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Re: Stus-List BC RDV

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

We're getting going on it for the 2016 RDV, new website up soon.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 26 February 2016 at 22:15, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Here's the web site http://members.shaw.ca/cncrdv/
>
> It is usually the first full weekend in August at Telegraph Harbor Marina
> on Thetis Island.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on sale at harbor freight

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Well,  I'm mostly interested in a way of keeping batteries typed up.   I'll be 
keeping the boat on a mooring.   Ideally I'd install a properly designed solar 
charging system but I'm trying to kick that can down the road. 
Danny


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Ken 
Heaton via CnC-List  Date: 2/27/2016  11:22 AM  
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list  Cc: Ken Heaton 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on 
sale at harbor  freight 
As Josh stated, it is not the same as a marinized, built in diesel genset.  But 
it is only $400.00
It really depends on what you want to do with it.
Run your AC?  I don't think so.  Charge your batteries through your onboard 
battery charger as you are away from shore power?  Yes, it will do that.  Run a 
few power tools while you are doing some work on the boat at a mooring or at 
anchor?  Yes, it will do that too.
Honda was the first to make these small inverter generators and theirs are 
reasonably quiet, though you probably won't make any friends running this in a 
silent anchorage at night.  If you have to sit i on deck you will find it 
noisier below that above as the deck is like a soundboard.  If you can leave it 
on the dock while it is running you will likely find it to be quiet.
This one does seem to output 12 DC, 8 amps, directly.  Look at the photos on 
the website.
What did you want to do with it / use it for?
Ken H.
On 27 February 2016 at 12:07, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:
I have a similar one.  They work.  They are also loud and use gasoline instead 
of diesel.  It's a pull start only.  They don't offer a 12v output.  They are 
not marinized, flame arrested or corrosion proof/resistant to the level needed 
for long term marine use.  They are also air cooled and exhaust to the air 
which means absolutely no inside use unlike a properly installed marine 
generator.  2200 running watts is likely to be 10amps @ 220v or 20 amps at 
110v.  Not likely to be on par with your shore power.  You may struggle if 
running HVAC. 
Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD
On Feb 27, 2016 10:34 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List"  
wrote:
Hi guys, Just saw an ad in my email this generator

2500 Peak/2200 Running Watts, 4.7 HP (125cc) Portable Inverter Generator EPA III
Is on sale for $399 with coupon code. 
Anyone have any thoughts on it? 
Danny
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
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Re: Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on sale at harbor freight

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

As Josh stated, it is not the same as a marinized, built in diesel genset.
But it is only $400.00

It really depends on what you want to do with it.

Run your AC?  I don't think so.  Charge your batteries through your onboard
battery charger as you are away from shore power?  Yes, it will do that.
Run a few power tools while you are doing some work on the boat at a
mooring or at anchor?  Yes, it will do that too.

Honda was the first to make these small inverter generators and theirs are
reasonably quiet, though you probably won't make any friends running this
in a silent anchorage at night.  If you have to sit i on deck you will find
it noisier below that above as the deck is like a soundboard.  If you can
leave it on the dock while it is running you will likely find it to be
quiet.

This one does seem to output 12 DC, 8 amps, directly.  Look at the photos
on the website.

What did you want to do with it / use it for?

Ken H.

On 27 February 2016 at 12:07, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a similar one.  They work.  They are also loud and use gasoline
> instead of diesel.  It's a pull start only.  They don't offer a 12v
> output.  They are not marinized, flame arrested or corrosion
> proof/resistant to the level needed for long term marine use.  They are
> also air cooled and exhaust to the air which means absolutely no inside use
> unlike a properly installed marine generator.  2200 running watts is likely
> to be 10amps @ 220v or 20 amps at 110v.  Not likely to be on par with your
> shore power.  You may struggle if running HVAC.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Feb 27, 2016 10:34 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi guys,
>> Just saw an ad in my email this generator
>>
>>
>> 2500 Peak/2200 Running Watts, 4.7 HP (125cc) Portable Inverter Generator
>> EPA III
>>
>> Is on sale for $399 with coupon code.
>>
>> Anyone have any thoughts on it?
>>
>> Danny
>>
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

In a re-fit many years ago I looked for replacement thru-hulls.

After not having success finding a replacement I 
got a NPT cutter head for a 'Rigid' pipe 
threading machine, from the local rental shop. 
You can adjust the "bite" of the cutter so I 
started off loose and cut some taper threads by 
hand. With the replacement ball valve nearby I 
kept at it until there was the desired fit. After 
the first one the rest were easy.


So, now my C original thru-hulls, which were in good shape, are taper thread.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 08:33 PM 26/02/2016, you wrote:
I think finding bronze NPS (straight) threaded 
ball valves is a difficult task. For example, 
every single valve sold by Defender is NPT (taper).



From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 3:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

Joe;

The bad news is I don’t believe that anyone 
makes the flush thru hulls used on our classic 
C anymore. All the ones I have seen are a 
smaller OD than the recesses in our hulls.


The good news is that you rarely need to replace 
a bronze thru hull. You just need one of the 
thru hull step wrenches shown on page 118 of the 
Buck Algonquin catalog and a strong helper to 
hold the step wrench on the outside of the boat 
while you remove the old valve from the threads 
of the existing thru hull from inside the hull. 
(you can also buy one at Lowes or Home Depot, 
but it is called a plumber’s step wrench or something similar)


Both my boats came with brass gate valves on 
most of the thru hulls, instead of proper 
seacocks. When I got my 25, back in 1994, I 
launched into replacing the gate valves, 
starting with the cockpit scuppers. I screwed up 
both the thru hulls because of my ignorance, and 
had a heck of a time finding a flush thru hull 
to replace the ones I had to cut out of the hull.


I finally found a pair of thru hulls at a 
chandlery in NJ, across the river from Philly – 
a place sort of like an OLD hardware store with 
lots of out of date hardware in stock. (Don’t 
you love poking around in those sort of places?) 
And the guy at the chandlery explained how you 
are supposed to get the old valve off the thru 
hull without damaging the thru hull. Once I 
bought the wrench, replacing all the valves was pretty straight forward.


BTW, the thru hulls should be bronze, not brass. 
And the seacocks should be either bronze or 
Marlon. You don’t want to use brass if you are 
in salt or brackish water. Thru hulls come with 
straight threads. So do proper seacocks. Most of 
my thru hulls were clamped to the wood backing 
plates with a nut, so I did not have to use 
seacocks with a flange on them. But I have 
learned that ball valves intended for plumbing 
come with tapered threads, so I had to make sure 
I ordered ball valves with straight threads that 
matched the threads on the thru hull.


Rick Brass
Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
Washington, NC





From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

Try here:

http://www.buckalgonquin.com/pdf/catalog.pdf

The company is near us.

Joel

On Fri, Feb 26, 2016 at 12:52 PM, Joe at 
Zialater via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I am trying to find the mfg. for the cockpit drain brass thru hulls on my
1975 30 MK1.

They are flush to the bottom of the hull and have a flange diameter of 3.5
inches and a 1.25 inch hole.  I have tried Groco and Perko but neither has
the correct size although they both have brass flush mount versions.

Does anyone have a suggestion on where I might find the original
replacement.  I would hate to have to modify the hole or use epoxy to make a
non-original thru hull fit.

Thanks for any ideas on this.

Joe

Zia - 1975 C 30 MK1
Annapolis



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--
Joel
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on sale at harbor freight

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I have a similar one.  They work.  They are also loud and use gasoline
instead of diesel.  It's a pull start only.  They don't offer a 12v
output.  They are not marinized, flame arrested or corrosion
proof/resistant to the level needed for long term marine use.  They are
also air cooled and exhaust to the air which means absolutely no inside use
unlike a properly installed marine generator.  2200 running watts is likely
to be 10amps @ 220v or 20 amps at 110v.  Not likely to be on par with your
shore power.  You may struggle if running HVAC.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Feb 27, 2016 10:34 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi guys,
> Just saw an ad in my email this generator
>
>
> 2500 Peak/2200 Running Watts, 4.7 HP (125cc) Portable Inverter Generator
> EPA III
>
> Is on sale for $399 with coupon code.
>
> Anyone have any thoughts on it?
>
> Danny
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on sale at harbor freight

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

One of the reviews on the Harbor Freight site reads as follows.  If 1800 -
1900 watts is enough output for your application then this will be a great
little generator until it breaks, then you throw it away as it is made in
China and parts will not be available.  1800 - 1900 watts is roughtly what
you get from a 15 amp outlet at home.

Ken H.

http://www.harborfreight.com/engines-generators/gas-engine-generators/2500-peak2200-running-watts-47-hp-125cc-portable-inverter-generator-61169.html

Below rated power

It just so happens I work in a large shop which repairs military
generators. After buying this generator, I could not wait until I could put
this inverter generator on a calibrated load bank. The generator is rated
at 2200 watts with a peak of 2500. The little generator just will not do
it. It will hold a little over 1900 watts for long periods, and kick the
over load light on around its peak of 2100 watts. Again,the equipment we
tested this with is calibrated yearly. It seems to put out very clean power
to run your electronics. Another draw back to the unit is the generator is
wire to stay in the econ mode which means the engine will slow down without
a load. This is not always a bad thing because it save on fuel; however, it
takes a split second to spin up to full throttle. This causes problems when
items such as small compressors, saws, RV A/C, etc. are used. Most other
generators in this size have an econ switch which when switch off allows
the generator to run at full power. At full power this generator would have
the power need to start small to medium motors. Having said all of this,
the generators would be great for electronics and lights/ small heaters. It
seems to be well built with good quality control done. I would not
recommend this for refrigerators because the sudden voltage drop and then
surge of power when the motor kicks in can damage the refrigerator.

On 27 February 2016 at 11:33, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi guys,
> Just saw an ad in my email this generator
>
>
> 2500 Peak/2200 Running Watts, 4.7 HP (125cc) Portable Inverter Generator
> EPA III
>
> Is on sale for $399 with coupon code.
>
> Anyone have any thoughts on it?
>
> Danny
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Stus-list: portable generator on sale at harbor freight

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi guys, Just saw an ad in my email this generator

2500 Peak/2200 Running Watts, 4.7 HP (125cc) Portable Inverter Generator EPA III
Is on sale for $399 with coupon code. 
Anyone have any thoughts on it? 
Danny
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device___

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Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

King Starboard is high-density polyethylene with UV additives--not 
polypropylene.  

Bob

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

> On Feb 27, 2016, at 7:23 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Something that may not even be on your radar is a hard-top dodger.  Dan Wood 
> from Canvas Creations in Annapolis made ours.  The original frame can usually 
> be used to support a top made entirely out of polypropylene (King Starboard). 
>  Traditional windows and canvas can be used for the sides but as an option 
> you can use the heavy gauge plexi (80 mil?).  With this stuff you don't need 
> the windows to be supported by as many fasteners to the deck.  The windows 
> can also be contoured and self supported around corners.  Because the top is 
> completely free standing the windows can be removed by simply sliding them 
> out of their "luff track".  The glass can also be polished to remove 
> scratches and haze.
> 
> Dan worked tirelessly with me to engineer exactly what I wanted.  The 37+ has 
> some very non-traditional aesthetics which made dodger design quite the mix 
> of compromises.
> 
> Contract Dan for an array of pictures.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Feb 26, 2016 8:42 PM, "John and Maryann Read via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> We are considering a dodger for our 34.  Any recommendations for local 
>> sources?  Any thoughts on pros or cons of a traditional versus California 
>> style?  Any hints at things we should be looking for (or to avoid)?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> As always, your thoughts are much appreciated
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> John and Maryann
>> 
>> Legacy III
>> 
>> 1982 C 34
>> 
>> Noank, CT
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. 
>> www.avast.com
>> 
>> ___
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>> of page at:
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>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Something that may not even be on your radar is a hard-top dodger.  Dan
Wood from Canvas Creations in Annapolis made ours.  The original frame can
usually be used to support a top made entirely out of polypropylene (King
Starboard).  Traditional windows and canvas can be used for the sides but
as an option you can use the heavy gauge plexi (80 mil?).  With this stuff
you don't need the windows to be supported by as many fasteners to the
deck.  The windows can also be contoured and self supported around
corners.  Because the top is completely free standing the windows can be
removed by simply sliding them out of their "luff track".  The glass can
also be polished to remove scratches and haze.

Dan worked tirelessly with me to engineer exactly what I wanted.  The 37+
has some very non-traditional aesthetics which made dodger design quite the
mix of compromises.

Contract Dan for an array of pictures.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Feb 26, 2016 8:42 PM, "John and Maryann Read via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We are considering a dodger for our 34.  Any recommendations for local
> sources?  Any thoughts on pros or cons of a traditional versus California
> style?  Any hints at things we should be looking for (or to avoid)?
>
>
>
> As always, your thoughts are much appreciated
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
> www.avast.com
> 
>
> ___
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>
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Re: Stus-List bearing removal tool

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Did you remove the set screws?  Mame sure that they aren't doubled up too.

Josh
On Feb 27, 2016 12:20 AM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I am trying to remove it undamaged because it seems to be an odd size.
>
> Josh, thanks for the input.
> I will keep working at it.
>
> > >
>
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2016 17:36:37 -0400
> > From: 
> > To: 
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Bearing removal tool by MacGyver
> > Message-ID: <26E99133EAD04EEC82957F43F69B1DDE@T60>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> > Brian, looking at the photos, it appears you have the shaft removed? If
> so, all you have to do now is carefully score the old bearing 90% of the
> way through with a hacksaw and then bend the bearing inward with a punch.
> Once loosened, it should come out.  I did this job a couple of years ago
> with a homemade tool that removed the old bearing without removing the
> shaft, worked well.
>
> ___
>
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