Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hi Rick, 

If it's not necessary to close the sink drain seacock when under way, then I 
guess I don't have to. I just assumed it was a good idea in case at high 
heel/roll angles or when pitching raw water would back into the sink (I saw 
that happen on a Merit 25 once). I'll check whether my boat has a shutoff valve 
near the head. The head does have the flush / wet lever of course. Thanks all 
for the responses. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Rick Brass"  
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 9:49:13 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing 



Your head inlet teed to the sink drain is exactly the way my 38 is plumbed. I 
think that arrangement was pretty common in the 70s. 



My question is why you would close the sink drain seacock when under weigh. 



I have a shut off valve in the inlet line between the seacock and the head that 
is near the head, and the lever on the head that is marked “Flush” and “Dry” is 
always left on “Dry” – and either of these should prevent inlet water from 
siphoning into the head when the boat is heeled while sailing. Is your boat 
plumbed with a shutoff valve near the head? 



Personally, I close all my seacocks a couple of times a year to make sure they 
are moving freely and they remain open the rest of the time; though I know 
there are some on the list who close all the thru hulls when they leave the 
boat for a week or two as insurance against a hose leak. 



Rick Brass 






From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 11:04 PM 
To: cnc-list  
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net 
Subject: Stus-List Head Plumbing 





Listers- 





If you'll humor me again, I'd like to get your comments on how the head on my 
boat (30-1 #7) is currently plumbed. 





The intake hose is teed into the vanity sink drain to its through hull. The 
discharge hose goes to a holding tank only (no Y-valve for overboard 
discharge). 





It's the intake hose I'm wondering about. I suppose with the vanity sink drain 
through-hull seacock closed, e.g. when underway, I could pump fresh water into 
the head by first pumping it into the vanity sink and letting the sink drain. 
When not underway, with the vanity sink drain through-hull seacock open, I 
could pump raw water into the head. 





Does that sound reasonable, or is my boat's head intake plumbing screwy? 





Thanks, 


Randy 

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Re: Stus-List C 29 mark II Rudder replacement/repair

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

My rebuild was ~$5k.  Seeing what the professionals do was definitely an
education.  Not hard, just a lot of work.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 18, 2016 10:11 PM, "Eugene Fodor via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Trying to get an idea of the cost for rudder replacement or repair.  The
> boat I'm close to purchasing has some brown drainage from the rudder after
> drilling the bottom which tells me there is some corrosion in the steel
> webbing. I'm handy unsure if this is better left to a marina shop or not
> salvageable long term. Thoughts?
>
> Gene
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Curious of the details.  Cost, A-Hr per day?

Pictures are good too.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 18, 2016 11:20 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
wrote:

I finished installing refrigeration (Isotherm 3701) on Touche' today.  Cold
beer!!!

Took a bunch of pictures.  I can send link to any interested listers.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Count me in the camp that closes all the through hulls.  A discussion
recently about disintegrating valve and hoses and the bilge pump keeping up
keeps me ever vigilant to the possibility of sinking.

It's usually just a sink drain and the engine cooling.  I keep the engine
key hanging on the engine through hull so I don't forget to open it.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 18, 2016 11:50 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Your head inlet teed to the sink drain is exactly the way my 38 is
> plumbed. I think that arrangement was pretty common in the 70s.
>
>
>
> My question is why you would close the sink drain seacock when under
> weigh.
>
>
>
> I have a shut off valve in the inlet line between the seacock and the head
> that is near the head, and the lever on the head that is marked “Flush” and
> “Dry” is always left on “Dry” – and either of these should prevent inlet
> water from siphoning into the head when the boat is heeled while sailing.
> Is your boat plumbed with a shutoff valve near the head?
>
>
>
> Personally, I close all my seacocks a couple of times a year to make sure
> they are moving freely and they remain open the rest of the time; though I
> know there are some on the list who close all the thru hulls when they
> leave the boat for a week or two as insurance against a hose leak.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Randy
> Stafford via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, April 18, 2016 11:04 PM
> *To:* cnc-list 
> *Cc:* randy.staff...@comcast.net
> *Subject:* Stus-List Head Plumbing
>
>
>
> Listers-
>
>
>
> If you'll humor me again, I'd like to get your comments on how the head on
> my boat (30-1 #7) is currently plumbed.
>
>
>
> The intake hose is teed into the vanity sink drain to its through hull.
> The discharge hose goes to a holding tank only (no Y-valve for overboard
> discharge).
>
>
>
> It's the intake hose I'm wondering about.  I suppose with the vanity sink
> drain through-hull seacock closed, e.g. when underway, I could pump fresh
> water into the head by first pumping it into the vanity sink and letting
> the sink drain.  When not underway, with the vanity sink drain through-hull
> seacock open, I could pump raw water into the head.
>
>
>
> Does that sound reasonable, or is my boat's head intake plumbing screwy?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Randy
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 41 Transport

[Phygital via CnC-List]

Thanks all. I plan on calling them tomorrow.


/J

> On Apr 18, 2016, at 9:22 PM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
> 
> Another recommend for Andrew's trucking if you end up going that way. They 
> did an excellent job moving my boat and they know their C 
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Your head inlet teed to the sink drain is exactly the way my 38 is plumbed. I 
think that arrangement was pretty common in the 70s.

 

My question is why you would close the sink drain seacock when under weigh. 

 

I have a shut off valve in the inlet line between the seacock and the head that 
is near the head, and the lever on the head that is marked “Flush” and “Dry” is 
always left on “Dry” – and either of these should prevent inlet water from 
siphoning into the head when the boat is heeled while sailing. Is your boat 
plumbed with a shutoff valve near the head?

 

Personally, I close all my seacocks a couple of times a year to make sure they 
are moving freely and they remain open the rest of the time; though I know 
there are some on the list who close all the thru hulls when they leave the 
boat for a week or two as insurance against a hose leak. 

 

Rick Brass

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 11:04 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Head Plumbing

 

Listers-

 

If you'll humor me again, I'd like to get your comments on how the head on my 
boat (30-1 #7) is currently plumbed.

 

The intake hose is teed into the vanity sink drain to its through hull.  The 
discharge hose goes to a holding tank only (no Y-valve for overboard discharge).

 

It's the intake hose I'm wondering about.  I suppose with the vanity sink drain 
through-hull seacock closed, e.g. when underway, I could pump fresh water into 
the head by first pumping it into the vanity sink and letting the sink drain.  
When not underway, with the vanity sink drain through-hull seacock open, I 
could pump raw water into the head.

 

Does that sound reasonable, or is my boat's head intake plumbing screwy?

 

Thanks,

Randy

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Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I finished installing refrigeration (Isotherm 3701) on Touche' today.  Cold
beer!!!

Took a bunch of pictures.  I can send link to any interested listers.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Randy,

This is the way I plumb my head basin & toilet intake many years ago.

The reasons are two-fold, I eliminated an unnecessary thru-hull 
penetration and if we're going to be away form the boat for a couple 
of weeks or more, I pump a 1/2 sink of fresh water through the toilet 
to eliminate standing water containing organics (sea water) which 
will yield a sulphur aroma on first use when we return (due to 
decomposition of said organics).


If you're a lake sailor the reason #2 doesn't apply much.  My basin 
drain/toilet intake thru-hull valve stays open when we're aboard, 
sailing or not.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 08:04 PM 18/04/2016, you wrote:

Listers-

If you'll humor me again, I'd like to get your comments on how the 
head on my boat (30-1 #7) is currently plumbed.


The intake hose is teed into the vanity sink drain to its through 
hull.  The discharge hose goes to a holding tank only (no Y-valve 
for overboard discharge).


It's the intake hose I'm wondering about.  I suppose with the vanity 
sink drain through-hull seacock closed, e.g. when underway, I could 
pump fresh water into the head by first pumping it into the vanity 
sink and letting the sink drain.  When not underway, with the vanity 
sink drain through-hull seacock open, I could pump raw water into the head.


Does that sound reasonable, or is my boat's head intake plumbing screwy?

Thanks,
Randy
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Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Not an uncommon configuration.  I've seen it before.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 10:04 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers-
>
> If you'll humor me again, I'd like to get your comments on how the head on
> my boat (30-1 #7) is currently plumbed.
>
> The intake hose is teed into the vanity sink drain to its through hull.
> The discharge hose goes to a holding tank only (no Y-valve for overboard
> discharge).
>
> It's the intake hose I'm wondering about.  I suppose with the vanity sink
> drain through-hull seacock closed, e.g. when underway, I could pump fresh
> water into the head by first pumping it into the vanity sink and letting
> the sink drain.  When not underway, with the vanity sink drain through-hull
> seacock open, I could pump raw water into the head.
>
> Does that sound reasonable, or is my boat's head intake plumbing screwy?
>
> Thanks,
> Randy
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Head Plumbing

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Listers- 

If you'll humor me again, I'd like to get your comments on how the head on my 
boat (30-1 #7) is currently plumbed. 

The intake hose is teed into the vanity sink drain to its through hull. The 
discharge hose goes to a holding tank only (no Y-valve for overboard 
discharge). 

It's the intake hose I'm wondering about. I suppose with the vanity sink drain 
through-hull seacock closed, e.g. when underway, I could pump fresh water into 
the head by first pumping it into the vanity sink and letting the sink drain. 
When not underway, with the vanity sink drain through-hull seacock open, I 
could pump raw water into the head. 

Does that sound reasonable, or is my boat's head intake plumbing screwy? 

Thanks, 
Randy 
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Stus-List C 29 mark II Rudder replacement/repair

[Eugene Fodor via CnC-List]

Trying to get an idea of the cost for rudder replacement or repair.  The
boat I'm close to purchasing has some brown drainage from the rudder after
drilling the bottom which tells me there is some corrosion in the steel
webbing. I'm handy unsure if this is better left to a marina shop or not
salvageable long term. Thoughts?

Gene
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Re: Stus-List C 41 Transport

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Another recommend for Andrew's trucking if you end up going that way. They
did an excellent job moving my boat and they know their C
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Interior cushions

[Sophia Weber via CnC-List]

I tried cleaning mine, but they had taken on the smell of mold and wouldn't let 
go. Took one apart to experiment. Washed it several times, and used a whole 
bottle of febreeze on it. Still stunk like mold. So I got new cushions, and it 
looks like a new boat inside! Definitely worth the investment.

Sophia
1978 C 29 MK1

  Original Message  
From: Sam Salter
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 18:21
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Interior cushions

I've got original white/blue/orange tartan cushions in my C 1977.
I took the covers off and had them dry cleaned‎ - came up nice.
The foam inside has some pieces glued to the front edges to support under your 
knees. Might come apart under washing!

sam :-)
C 26 Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta
  Original Message  
From: paul taylor via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 11:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul taylor
Subject: Stus-List Interior cushions

I have a 1977 29-1, original cushions. Does anyone know if the cushions can be 
washed without shrinkage ?
I was thinking of washing them in an industrial washer with the foam inside.


Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 masthead sheaves

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Well, counting a friend of mine at the marina this weekend, that makes three 
votes for Zephyrwerks… I guess I’ll give them a shout.  Thanks!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 18, 2016, at 7:39 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Fred,
> Contact Tom as Zephyrwerks in Port Townsend, WA and he’ll make any size 
> sheave you want and will do it quickly and at a very reasonable price.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> Padanaram, MA
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Re: Stus-List Electric Drive

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Hi James,

Yes, the larger prop is better but still not great at regen. I don't have
any data but I can hear the larger prop starting to regen at a lower speed
through the water than the original, smaller prop. Regen is generally
thought to be not that great on a boat my size (33 feet) unless it's moving
very fast through the water.

I'm no expert, but my take on LiFePo4 batteries is that the battery
management system is critical. It needs to know what's going on with every
cell. I had enough unknowns in my electric conversion, so I trundle along
with AGMs.

There are some compromises with electric auxiliary propulsion on a
sailboat. But after all, it is a sailboat.

I converted to electric mainly for reliability (not for "greenness").

Hope this helps, and I'm happy to answer (or give my opinion about) any
other question.

Bob Moriarty
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 4:42 PM, James Nichols via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bob,
>
> With your larger prop,  does it spin and generate power while you are
> sailing?
>
> My thoughts on batteries is that I plan on going lithium iron phosphate.
>
> Much higher capacity than lead acid, super fast recharge,  1/10th the
> weight and 1/4th the size for the same reserve rating. Just much more
> expensive.
>
> My charging system is in need of complete replacement anyways and I've
> just for one working battery right now,  so I thought I might as well go
> the route of lithium ion.
>
> I'm going through the calculations on my power needs right now and trying
> to figure out how many batteries and solar panels I need.
>
> It would be nice if the prop would add to the power generation also,  I've
> seen a system that does,  but it was crazy expensive.
>
> James
> S/V Kristy
> 1971 C 39
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 masthead sheaves

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Fred,

Contact Tom as Zephyrwerks in Port Townsend, WA and he’ll make any size sheave 
you want and will do it quickly and at a very reasonable price.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 4:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Stus-List Landfall 38 masthead sheaves

 

I just finished rewiring my mast over the weekend, upgrading with new LED nav 
lights from Marinebeam, along with new low-loss VHF and cell-repeater antenna 
cabling, and a Windex light and masthead wind transducer cable as well.  While 
I was working at the masthead, I took a minute to inspect the sheaves.  They’re 
the original wire-rope aluminum sheaves (two jib halyards and main halyard); 
the measurements appear to be as follows:

 

Jib sheaves: 4-1/2” diameter x 11/16” wide, with a bushing for a 7/16” shaft

Main sheave:  3-1/2” diameter x 9/16” wide (with what looks like a Delrin 
spacer on each side), with a bushing for a 7/16” shaft

 

Have any of you LF38 owners replaced your sheaves?  Do these measurements look 
correct?  Who did you use as a supplier?

 

I’ve still got a few weeks before launch, and I’d like to get new sheaves 
ordered up so I can replace them before the mast goes back up.  Any help 
getting the parts right the first time would be appreciated!

 

— Fred

 


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

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Re: Stus-List C 41 Transport

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Ship Her from RI.

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Apr 18, 2016, at 18:30, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Sometimes they'll remove the keel.  It may just be cheaper hire a delivery 
> captain to deliver it by water.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Apr 18, 2016 5:05 PM, "Phygital via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Hi,
>> 
>> Am looking at acquiring a C 41 (keel is 7' 10") out of Massachusetts. 
>> 
>> Odd question...
>> 
>> I've learned Massachusetts have quite restrictive rules on heights.
>> 
>> Does anyone know of the height from the bottom of the keel to highest point 
>> (deck, stanchion, cabin top, etc), or maybe point me in the right direction?
>> 
>> The boat is currently in the water, otherwise it'd be easier to figure out. 
>> 
>> /J
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List C 41 Transport

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Sometimes they'll remove the keel.  It may just be cheaper hire a delivery
captain to deliver it by water.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 18, 2016 5:05 PM, "Phygital via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Am looking at acquiring a C 41 (keel is 7' 10") out of Massachusetts.
>
> Odd question...
>
> I've learned Massachusetts have quite restrictive rules on heights.
>
> Does anyone know of the height from the bottom of the keel to highest
> point (deck, stanchion, cabin top, etc), or maybe point me in the right
> direction?
>
> The boat is currently in the water, otherwise it'd be easier to figure
> out.
>
> /J
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 41 Transport

[Phygital via CnC-List]

Thanks. How long is your mast

Where were you shipping it to, I need to get it to Ontario Canada.


/J

> On Apr 18, 2016, at 5:13 PM, Harry Hallgring Jr  wrote:
> 
> Brownell in Mattapoisett, MA will have all that info and more. I had to 
> remove my pulpits, stanchions, and pushpit to go over the road. State Police 
> escort was half the cost just to traverse one bridge. 
> 
> Harry
> Sent from my iPhone 7 beta
> 
>> On Apr 18, 2016, at 17:04, Phygital via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi,
>> 
>> Am looking at acquiring a C 41 (keel is 7' 10") out of Massachusetts. 
>> 
>> Odd question...
>> 
>> I've learned Massachusetts have quite restrictive rules on heights.
>> 
>> Does anyone know of the height from the bottom of the keel to highest point 
>> (deck, stanchion, cabin top, etc), or maybe point me in the right direction?
>> 
>> The boat is currently in the water, otherwise it'd be easier to figure out. 
>> 
>> /J
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List C 41 Transport

[David via CnC-List]

J,

No chance of sailing it home?

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2016 17:04:15 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C 41 Transport
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: phygi...@gmail.com

Hi,
Am looking at acquiring a C 41 (keel is 7' 10") out of Massachusetts. 
Odd question...
I've learned Massachusetts have quite restrictive rules on heights.
Does anyone know of the height from the bottom of the keel to highest point 
(deck, stanchion, cabin top, etc), or maybe point me in the right direction?
The boat is currently in the water, otherwise it'd be easier to figure out. 

/J
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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 masthead sheaves (now: question about VHF coax)

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I’m of no help with the sheave sizing but I do have a question: What VHF coax 
cable did you use? I will be replacing mine sometime this summer and would like 
to do the same.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Apr 18, 2016, at 4:27 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I just finished rewiring my mast over the weekend, upgrading with new LED nav 
> lights from Marinebeam, along with new low-loss VHF and cell-repeater antenna 
> cabling, and a Windex light and masthead wind transducer cable as well.  
> While I was working at the masthead, I took a minute to inspect the sheaves.  
> They’re the original wire-rope aluminum sheaves (two jib halyards and main 
> halyard); the measurements appear to be as follows:
> 
> Jib sheaves:  4-1/2” diameter x 11/16” wide, with a bushing for a 7/16” shaft
> Main sheave:  3-1/2” diameter x 9/16” wide (with what looks like a Delrin 
> spacer on each side), with a bushing for a 7/16” shaft
> 
> Have any of you LF38 owners replaced your sheaves?  Do these measurements 
> look correct?  Who did you use as a supplier?
> 
> I’ve still got a few weeks before launch, and I’d like to get new sheaves 
> ordered up so I can replace them before the mast goes back up.  Any help 
> getting the parts right the first time would be appreciated!
> 
> — Fred
> 
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

“If it pumps up to the sink, how is it physically attached to the sink?.”Mine 
just has a 2-3 ft length of hose that I can direct into the sink.Mike 
AmiraultC Lovely CruiseSMSC N.S.___

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Re: Stus-List mast wire spec?

[Don Harben via CnC-List]

Hi Fred,

I have a similar project in mind for mid summer.

 I am curious about the wire spec that ended up using for lights, cell and VHF 
cable?

I am also curious which cell aerial you went with.

Don

> On Apr 18, 2016, at 4:27 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> just finished rewiring my mast over the weekend, upgrading with new LED nav 
> lights from Marinebeam, along with new low-loss VHF and cell-repeater antenna 
> cabling, and a Windex light and masthead wind transducer cable as well


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Re: Stus-List C 41 Transport

[Harry Hallgring Jr via CnC-List]

Brownell in Mattapoisett, MA will have all that info and more. I had to remove 
my pulpits, stanchions, and pushpit to go over the road. State Police escort 
was half the cost just to traverse one bridge. 

Harry
Sent from my iPhone 7 beta

> On Apr 18, 2016, at 17:04, Phygital via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Am looking at acquiring a C 41 (keel is 7' 10") out of Massachusetts. 
> 
> Odd question...
> 
> I've learned Massachusetts have quite restrictive rules on heights.
> 
> Does anyone know of the height from the bottom of the keel to highest point 
> (deck, stanchion, cabin top, etc), or maybe point me in the right direction?
> 
> The boat is currently in the water, otherwise it'd be easier to figure out. 
> 
> /J
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List C 41 Transport

[Phygital via CnC-List]

Hi,

Am looking at acquiring a C 41 (keel is 7' 10") out of Massachusetts. 

Odd question...

I've learned Massachusetts have quite restrictive rules on heights.

Does anyone know of the height from the bottom of the keel to highest point 
(deck, stanchion, cabin top, etc), or maybe point me in the right direction?

The boat is currently in the water, otherwise it'd be easier to figure out. 

/J___

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Stus-List Electric Drive

[James Nichols via CnC-List]

Bob, 
With your larger prop,  does it spin and generate power while you are sailing? 
My thoughts on batteries is that I plan on going lithium iron phosphate. 
Much higher capacity than lead acid, super fast recharge,  1/10th the weight 
and 1/4th the size for the same reserve rating. Just much more expensive. 
My charging system is in need of complete replacement anyways and I've just for 
one working battery right now,  so I thought I might as well go the route of 
lithium ion. 
I'm going through the calculations on my power needs right now and trying to 
figure out how many batteries and solar panels I need. 
It would be nice if the prop would add to the power generation also,  I've seen 
a system that does,  but it was crazy expensive. 
JamesS/V Kristy 1971 C 39


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Stus-List FYI Chesapeake Area C - Sailing Movie Centreville MD Saturday

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

http://corsicariverfoundation.org/2016/02/28/corsica-river-presents-one-simple-question/

 

The Corsica River Foundation proudly welcomes Teresa and Ben Carey for a 
screening of their film, One Simple Question. Saturday, April 23rd….Come to 
enjoy good conversation and catered food and drink, experience a live-aboard 
sailing adventure, meet the sailors who did it!

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com  

 

Coquina C 35 MK I

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Stus-List Landfall 38 masthead sheaves

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I just finished rewiring my mast over the weekend, upgrading with new LED nav 
lights from Marinebeam, along with new low-loss VHF and cell-repeater antenna 
cabling, and a Windex light and masthead wind transducer cable as well.  While 
I was working at the masthead, I took a minute to inspect the sheaves.  They’re 
the original wire-rope aluminum sheaves (two jib halyards and main halyard); 
the measurements appear to be as follows:

Jib sheaves:4-1/2” diameter x 11/16” wide, with a bushing for a 7/16” shaft
Main sheave:3-1/2” diameter x 9/16” wide (with what looks like a Delrin 
spacer on each side), with a bushing for a 7/16” shaft

Have any of you LF38 owners replaced your sheaves?  Do these measurements look 
correct?  Who did you use as a supplier?

I’ve still got a few weeks before launch, and I’d like to get new sheaves 
ordered up so I can replace them before the mast goes back up.  Any help 
getting the parts right the first time would be appreciated!

— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

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Stus-List Ontario Forward hatch rubber seal

[robert via CnC-List]

Don:

For what it's worth, I dealt with Hammerhead Nautical Systems for hatch 
sealsthe owner worked for Atkins & Hoyle..knows his stuff.I 
was ordering the wrong size and he corrected mebest priceand he 
sent me a tube of sealant, no cost.  Nice guy, I'd like to be treated 
his way all the time.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2016-04-18 3:52 PM, Don Harben via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Steve,

I think that you are a Toronto boat!

 I need some as well, in two sizes, small head hatch and forward 
hatch.  Fred was fabulous putting together a plexi template order for 
my small hatch. Ed put together a premium butyl order and we 
rendezvoused outside the Art Gallery of Ontario


I am wondering if we might find a local Ontario supplier for the glue 
and the foam rod and split it up. I will check around to see what I 
can find from these possible suppliers:


1. SB Simpson Industrial Supplies, Tools and Equipment
http://www.sbsimpson.com/

2. Atkins and Hoyle
http://atkinshoyle.com/hatch-repairs.html


  3. Hammerhead Nautical Systems


  http://www.hhns.ca/products-parts

4. Holland Marine
http://hollandmarine.com

I am 7-8 hr drive from my boat ... so I will go with others A gasket 
sizing.


Don
Don Harben
Life
V34 www.ncyc.ca 

Oakville for now ...


On Apr 18, 2016, at 2:25 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
> wrote:



Joel, I need some!
Feel free to email me offline to arrange $$ and shipping. No way any 
of us needs 100 feet.


Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 2:08 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Atkins & Hoyle will sell you the world's most expensive seal, or
you can get a large roll at McMaster Carr.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#epdm-foam-cords/=116i66x

or hope someone has some laying around.  I'm ordering 1/2 inch if
anyone needs some.

BTW, I used Goo Gone to loosen the adhesive.  Worked great!

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 12:42 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List
> wrote:

It appears that the seal on the forward hatch on our C 29
is leaking.  I was thinking of replacing it with a 3/8 by 3/4
foam rubber seal.  I cut out a piece of the original seal and
it looks as if it was round.  Any suggestions?

Frank

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-- 
Joel

301 541 8551 

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Ontario Forward hatch rubber seal

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Don, I already made arrangements with Joel before seeing this email. Yes,
I'm in Toronto! The AGO is an ideal place for me to meet otherwise, I work
very close by.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 2:52 PM, Don Harben via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Steve,
>
> I think that you are a Toronto boat!
>
>  I need some as well, in two sizes, small head hatch and forward hatch.
> Fred was fabulous putting together a plexi template order for my small
> hatch. Ed put together a premium butyl order and we rendezvoused outside
> the Art Gallery of Ontario
>
> I am wondering if we might find a local Ontario supplier for the glue and
> the foam rod and split it up. I will check around to see what I can find
> from these possible suppliers:
>
> 1. SB Simpson Industrial Supplies, Tools and Equipment
> http://www.sbsimpson.com/
>
> 2. Atkins and Hoyle
> http://atkinshoyle.com/hatch-repairs.html
>
> 3. Hammerhead Nautical Systemshttp://www.hhns.ca/products-parts
> 4. Holland Marine
> http://hollandmarine.com
>
> I am 7-8 hr drive from my boat ... so I will go with others A gasket
> sizing.
>
> Don
> Don Harben
> Life
> V34 www.ncyc.ca
>
> Oakville for now ...
>
>
> On Apr 18, 2016, at 2:25 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Joel, I need some!
> Feel free to email me offline to arrange $$ and shipping. No way any of us
> needs 100 feet.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
> On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 2:08 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Atkins & Hoyle will sell you the world's most expensive seal, or you can
>> get a large roll at McMaster Carr.
>> http://www.mcmaster.com/#epdm-foam-cords/=116i66x
>>
>> or hope someone has some laying around.  I'm ordering 1/2 inch if anyone
>> needs some.
>>
>> BTW, I used Goo Gone to loosen the adhesive.  Worked great!
>>
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> Annapolis
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 12:42 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> It appears that the seal on the forward hatch on our C 29 is leaking.
>>> I was thinking of replacing it with a 3/8 by 3/4 foam rubber seal.  I cut
>>> out a piece of the original seal and it looks as if it was round.  Any
>>> suggestions?
>>>
>>> Frank
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Ontario Forward hatch rubber seal

[Don Harben via CnC-List]

Hi Steve,

I think that you are a Toronto boat!

 I need some as well, in two sizes, small head hatch and forward hatch.  Fred 
was fabulous putting together a plexi template order for my small hatch. Ed put 
together a premium butyl order and we rendezvoused outside the Art Gallery of 
Ontario 

I am wondering if we might find a local Ontario supplier for the glue and the 
foam rod and split it up. I will check around to see what I can find from these 
possible suppliers:

1. SB Simpson Industrial Supplies, Tools and Equipment 
http://www.sbsimpson.com/

2. Atkins and Hoyle
http://atkinshoyle.com/hatch-repairs.html

3. Hammerhead Nautical Systems

http://www.hhns.ca/products-parts

4. Holland Marine
http://hollandmarine.com

I am 7-8 hr drive from my boat ... so I will go with others A gasket sizing. 

Don
Don Harben
Life
V34 www.ncyc.ca

Oakville for now ...


> On Apr 18, 2016, at 2:25 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Joel, I need some!
> Feel free to email me offline to arrange $$ and shipping. No way any of us 
> needs 100 feet.
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
> 
>> On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 2:08 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Atkins & Hoyle will sell you the world's most expensive seal, or you can get 
>> a large roll at McMaster Carr.
>> http://www.mcmaster.com/#epdm-foam-cords/=116i66x
>> 
>> or hope someone has some laying around.  I'm ordering 1/2 inch if anyone 
>> needs some.
>> 
>> BTW, I used Goo Gone to loosen the adhesive.  Worked great!
>> 
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> Annapolis
>> 
>>> On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 12:42 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> It appears that the seal on the forward hatch on our C 29 is leaking.  I 
>>> was thinking of replacing it with a 3/8 by 3/4 foam rubber seal.  I cut out 
>>> a piece of the original seal and it looks as if it was round.  Any 
>>> suggestions?
>>> 
>>> Frank
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Interior cushions

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I took the covers off of all of my cushions on the 32 and washed those in
the machine at home. I washed them with diluted bleach solution. They
cleaned up very nicely. For the foam I actually went a bit crazy and soaked
them one by one in a kiddy pool filled with bleach/water solution. Then I
let them dry in the sun for up to a week (taking them indoors when it
rained). Was a pain in the butt but they are in much, much nicer condition
now. Cosmetically they were fine, but they stank like 35 year old boat
cushions. Not anymore! I didn't get all the foam bleached/soaked, but did
maybe half (important v-berth, sitting cushions, etc). Did wash all the
covers though.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 2:09 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Paul -
> Every few years I take the covers off and wash them.  Also spray the foam
> to
> reduce odor.  Biggest issue is sometimes the zippers break during the
> pull-off process and I take the piece over to the local shop to repair.
>
> Someday I will replace the foam and covers, just not this day.  Too many
> other priorities.
>
> There's nothing wrong with making due.
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of paul
> taylor via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 12:14 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: paul taylor
> Subject: Stus-List Interior cushions
>
> I have a 1977 29-1, original cushions. Does anyone know if the cushions can
> be washed without shrinkage ?
> I was thinking of washing them in an industrial washer with the foam
> inside.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Forward hatch rubber seal

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Joel, I need some!
Feel free to email me offline to arrange $$ and shipping. No way any of us
needs 100 feet.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 2:08 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Atkins & Hoyle will sell you the world's most expensive seal, or you can
> get a large roll at McMaster Carr.
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#epdm-foam-cords/=116i66x
>
> or hope someone has some laying around.  I'm ordering 1/2 inch if anyone
> needs some.
>
> BTW, I used Goo Gone to loosen the adhesive.  Worked great!
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
> On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 12:42 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> It appears that the seal on the forward hatch on our C 29 is leaking.
>> I was thinking of replacing it with a 3/8 by 3/4 foam rubber seal.  I cut
>> out a piece of the original seal and it looks as if it was round.  Any
>> suggestions?
>>
>> Frank
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue

[David via CnC-List]

I did this years ago but added salt water as well.   One foot pump can pump 
fresh or salt water or icebox.   Just a few valves and hose.   It is so easy to 
clean the icebox.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2016 13:32:05 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: njgallag...@optonline.net


  

  
  
On my 35-1 the manual fresh water pump for the sink also takes
suction, by means of a 3-way valve, from the icebox drain, so it can
pump the water right into the sink.  I don't know if that was
original or installed by some PO, but it works pretty well. 



Neil Gallagher

Weatherly 35-1

Glen Cove, NY







On 4/18/2016 12:57 PM, Dave via
  CnC-List wrote:



  
Any idea where it's available
  from. I need to replace mine and the ones I find are all too
  long.





Dave J


"Saltaire"


C 35 MK 3




  Bristol, RI






From: "Dave
  via CnC-List" 

  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

  Cc: "Dave" 

  Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 12:47:00 PM

  Subject: Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler
  Drainage Issue

  

  
  The
  manual pump is original. Still available.  
  


  Dave 33-2 windstar
  

  
  


  Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2016 11:22:22 -0300

From: 

To: 

Subject: Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler
Drainage Issue

Message-ID: 

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

  



My C7C33ii
has a small manually operated pump attached to the
cooler drain and can be pumped into the galley sink.  I
have no idea if this is original or was installed by a
PO.

  



As for the
head, do you mean the sink won?t drain or the head
itself?

  



Mike
  Amirault

  C Lovely Cruise

  SMSC NS.




Sent from my iPhone
  

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  members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our
  costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





  
  

  
  

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Virus-free. www.avast.com


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Re: Stus-List Interior cushions

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Paul - 
Every few years I take the covers off and wash them.  Also spray the foam to
reduce odor.  Biggest issue is sometimes the zippers break during the
pull-off process and I take the piece over to the local shop to repair.

Someday I will replace the foam and covers, just not this day.  Too many
other priorities.  

There's nothing wrong with making due.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of paul
taylor via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 12:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul taylor
Subject: Stus-List Interior cushions

I have a 1977 29-1, original cushions. Does anyone know if the cushions can
be washed without shrinkage ?
I was thinking of washing them in an industrial washer with the foam inside.


Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Forward hatch rubber seal

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Atkins & Hoyle will sell you the world's most expensive seal, or you can
get a large roll at McMaster Carr.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#epdm-foam-cords/=116i66x

or hope someone has some laying around.  I'm ordering 1/2 inch if anyone
needs some.

BTW, I used Goo Gone to loosen the adhesive.  Worked great!

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 12:42 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It appears that the seal on the forward hatch on our C 29 is leaking.  I
> was thinking of replacing it with a 3/8 by 3/4 foam rubber seal.  I cut out
> a piece of the original seal and it looks as if it was round.  Any
> suggestions?
>
> Frank
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List C -- Shift cable attachement at engine stringer

[David Paine via CnC-List]

I can report that it is possible to remove the shift cable without lifting
the engine.  Barely possible!I managed to create a tool to blindly
unscrew the hex bolts that hold the clamp.  The cable is now out of the
boat.   Huge relief.


On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 9:42 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Wow. I'd love to see some details of that arrangement.
> --Bob Moriarty
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 8:57 PM, David Paine via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Bob, My below decks arduino autopilot uses a Pololu SMC controller.   It
>> is an amazingly effective motor controller.
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:50 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Yes that's a Pololu controller. They make good stuff.
>>>
>>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:45 PM, bobmor99 .  wrote:
>>>
 Hi David,
 My only (marginally useful) advice is to use a Dremel instead of a
 hacksaw.
 It's really tight down there.
 --Bob M


 On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:26 PM, David Paine via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the very useful input Bob and Rod,
>
> I used a mirror and it looks like exactly like what Rod describes -- a
> strap bolted with two 7/16' hex bolts screwed into  threaded holes.   
> Bob's
>  linear actuator (is that a Pololu motor controller?) is brilliant and
> would save the horrible feed-through the stainless tube brace problem but,
> for heck's sake, it shouldn't be this hard!The real problem is that
> there is no clearance for a socket between the hexbolt head and the
> eyestrap and, even if there were, there is no room between the engine and
> the bracket for the wrench.I am going to try hacksawing through the
> eyestrap that bolts the cable to the "L" to give a bit more room to fit a
> small open wrench (though the room to move is very limited).   To move the
> engine out of the way would be a nightmare so I am going to lose more
> knuckle skin before I resort to that!
>
> Best,
>
> David
>
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:06 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi David,
>> Not exactly helpful but the shift linkage failure was the penultimate
>> last straw in the relationship with my Atomic 4.
>> My remedy was a linear actuator controlled with a trim pot from the
>> helm. It was pretty cool until the A4 had a lot more problems.
>> I've gone electric since; an imperfect but so far reliable solution.
>>
>> Pics of the retired linear actuator:
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuOEx2Q1RYM0R3UlE/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuM1JmaFJRS0M3RjQ/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuS3BxVmVDVXRlbjA/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> Here's the solar array that's helping charge my batteries:
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otua091R1dRbDFWMDA/view?usp=sharing
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 3:56 PM, Rod Randow via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I replaced my shift cable on my C 33-1 a few years ago when I had
>>> my engine out for a rebuild. If I remember correctly, the cable is 
>>> attached
>>> to the vertical side of the welded L angle with a omega shaped fitting.
>>> There are two bolts holding the piece.  I believe the angle piece
>>> was tapped for the bolts. The omega piece has a concave “V” which fits 
>>> into
>>> a groove on the cable end.  I not sure the cable is replaceable
>>> without lifting the engine -- let me know if it is possible.
>>>
>>>
>>> Make sure you get a cable with the same "throw"? as the old one. I
>>> had to recondition the old yoke because I could not find a replacement.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> There is more fun at the other end (cockpit) when it’s time to
>>> attach and adjust the cable. I disassembled the cable “tubes” from the
>>> binnacle to accomplish this.
>>>
>>>
>>> Rod Randow
>>>
>>> C
>>>
>>> On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 11:51 AM, David Paine via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Hi all,

 I have to replace the shift cable on my C and it is proving
 to be troublesome.   I have the original atomic 4 with the v-drive so 
 the
 transmission is located in the front.   The red jacket 64CC series 
 cable
 comes from the helm, under the cockpit sole and beneath the engine and
 attaches to a piece that is welded to the steel engine mount rail.   
 The
 trouble is that the cable clamp is inaccessible in the space between 
 the
 engine sump and the engine mount 

Stus-List Forward hatch rubber seal

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

 It appears that the seal on the forward hatch on our C 29 is leaking.  I was 
thinking of replacing it with a 3/8 by 3/4 foam rubber seal.  I cut out a piece 
of the original seal and it looks as if it was round.  Any suggestions?
Frank___

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Re: Stus-List Interior cushions

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Paul,

I don't think I would run them thru a washer,

I think if you want to try and save the fabric, it may be worth your 
while to open them up, get the foam out and have them dry cleaned. You 
may be able to salvage the foam but, I'd recommend at least try and 
replace the foam, maybe have new zippers added to the covers.


Also try a regular upholsterer, you'll save some dollars that way. Go as 
far from the coast as you can!


Where are you located, I have a local guy I use for all that stuff.

Danny


On 4/18/2016 1:14 PM, paul taylor via CnC-List wrote:

I have a 1977 29-1, original cushions. Does anyone know if the cushions can be 
washed without shrinkage ?
I was thinking of washing them in an industrial washer with the foam inside.


Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Interior cushions

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I'd hesitate to put 40 year old cushions in an industrial machine.  They
are probably poly, so they won't shrink, but they could disintegrate.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 1:14 PM, paul taylor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a 1977 29-1, original cushions. Does anyone know if the cushions
> can be washed without shrinkage ?
> I was thinking of washing them in an industrial washer with the foam
> inside.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

On my 35-1 the manual fresh water pump for the sink also takes suction, 
by means of a 3-way valve, from the icebox drain, so it can pump the 
water right into the sink.  I don't know if that was original or 
installed by some PO, but it works pretty well.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 4/18/2016 12:57 PM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:
Any idea where it's available from. I need to replace mine and the 
ones I find are all too long.


Dave J
"Saltaire"
C 35 MK 3

Bristol, RI


*From: *"Dave via CnC-List" 
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc: *"Dave" 
*Sent: *Monday, April 18, 2016 12:47:00 PM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue

The manual pump is original. Still available.

Dave 33-2 windstar


Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2016 11:22:22 -0300
From: >
To: >
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985  Cooler 
Drainage Issue

Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

My C7C33ii has a small manually operated pump attached to the cooler 
drain and can be pumped into the galley sink.  I have no idea if this 
is original or was installed by a PO.


As for the head, do you mean the sink won?t drain or the head itself?

Mike Amirault
C Lovely Cruise
SMSC NS.

Sent from my iPhone

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Contributions are greatly appreciated!




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Re: Stus-List Galley sink basket/strainer

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Take a look at Fisheries Supply for Scandvik sink drain adapters.  They are 
available for both 3/4” and 1” hoses.

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/scandvik-1-1-4in-sink-drain-adapter-hose-barb 


Also, you don’t already, use some stainless wire to wrap around the hose top 
to secure the hose incase of hose/drain disconnect.  



-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Apr 18, 2016, at 8:23 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2016 21:07:33 -0400
> From: Bradley Lumgair >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Galley sink basket/strainer
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Last winter when we bought Pulse, the surveyor wrote that every hose on the 
> boat should be changed, so I'm working on it. They are original to the boat, 
> 1985. Replaced the drain hose from the galley sink to the thru hull and 
> crushed the little funnel shaped brittle plastic fitting on the bottom of the 
> drain basket strainer assembly under the galley sink. Made a quick sweep of 
> all the regular websites and can only find a reducing fitting to 3/4 inch. 
> The sink drain hose is 1 inch. Don't want to replace the thru hull nor have a 
> restriction in that line. Anyone have a suggestion? Maybe there's a domestic 
> plumbing fitting I'm missing out on?
> Thank you
> Brad
> "Pulse" 1985 C 33 MkII
> Lake Huron
> 
> 
> I'd rather be sailing

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Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue

[Dave via CnC-List]

The manual pump is original. Still available.  

Dave 33-2 windstar


Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2016 11:22:22 -0300
From: 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

My C7C33ii has a small manually operated pump attached to the cooler drain and 
can be pumped into the galley sink.  I have no idea if this is original or was 
installed by a PO.

As for the head, do you mean the sink won?t drain or the head itself?

Mike Amirault
C Lovely Cruise
SMSC NS.

Sent from my iPhone___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

My 1980 Landfall 38 that I just bought recently had a small hand pump, but
no drain.  I was checking it out this weekend and will probably install one
that drains into the sink drain so it doesn't go into the bilge.  A "Y"
connector should to the trick so it doesn't back up into the sink.  I
removed the small pump and got a bigger hand one from West Marine for $30.
I really want to redo the entire refrigeration with a better compressor
than the cold plate version that's in her now...  Has anybody rebuilt
there's to be a freezer/frig?


Virus-free.
www.avast.com

<#m_2231386556315230213_DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 12:27 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think on the smaller, older boats, the ice box just drained to the
> bilge. On my 27, the PO had a small hand pump (my impression was it was
> added later) but it went to a milk jug jammed in next to the engine. If it
> pumps up to the sink, how is it physically attached to the sink?.
>
> *From:* Tom Lynch via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, April 18, 2016 8:47 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Tom Lynch 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue
>
> Yup,
>
> My 1985 33II has the small hand pump accessed from under the galley sink.
>
> Tom Lynch
> Escape (to be renamed Indo-Irish)
> C 33 MK II
> Bayfield, WI
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 10:33 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I think the pump on the cooler drain was standard on that era of boats,
>> our 84 29'er had it, so does our 84 35'er.
>>
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>>
>> On 18 April 2016 at 07:22, mike amirault via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> My C7C33ii has a small manually operated pump attached to the cooler
>>> drain and can be pumped into the galley sink.  I have no idea if this is
>>> original or was installed by a PO.
>>>
>>> As for the head, do you mean the sink won’t drain or the head itself?
>>>
>>> Mike Amirault
>>> C Lovely Cruise
>>> SMSC NS.
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue

[Tom Lynch via CnC-List]

Yup,

My 1985 33II has the small hand pump accessed from under the galley sink.

Tom Lynch
Escape (to be renamed Indo-Irish)
C 33 MK II
Bayfield, WI


On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 10:33 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think the pump on the cooler drain was standard on that era of boats,
> our 84 29'er had it, so does our 84 35'er.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 18 April 2016 at 07:22, mike amirault via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> My C7C33ii has a small manually operated pump attached to the cooler
>> drain and can be pumped into the galley sink.  I have no idea if this is
>> original or was installed by a PO.
>>
>> As for the head, do you mean the sink won’t drain or the head itself?
>>
>> Mike Amirault
>> C Lovely Cruise
>> SMSC NS.
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I think the pump on the cooler drain was standard on that era of boats, our
84 29'er had it, so does our 84 35'er.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 18 April 2016 at 07:22, mike amirault via CnC-List  wrote:

> My C7C33ii has a small manually operated pump attached to the cooler drain
> and can be pumped into the galley sink.  I have no idea if this is original
> or was installed by a PO.
>
> As for the head, do you mean the sink won’t drain or the head itself?
>
> Mike Amirault
> C Lovely Cruise
> SMSC NS.
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

My C7C33ii has a small manually operated pump attached to the cooler drain and 
can be pumped into the galley sink.  I have no idea if this is original or was 
installed by a PO.

As for the head, do you mean the sink won’t drain or the head itself?

Mike Amirault
C Lovely Cruise
SMSC NS.___

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Re: Stus-List Small piece of teak and holly Plywood needed

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Harry,

Thats Great!  of course I can wait!

Thanks so much!

See you when you get back!

Danny

On 4/18/2016 9:54 AM, Harry Hallgring Jr via CnC-List wrote:

Danny,
I have that at home...but I'm in Florida for 10 days if you can wait.

Harry
Sent from my iPhone 7 beta


On Apr 18, 2016, at 09:32, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi guys,

I removed the salon table as I found it doesn't stow very well out of
the way. My intention is to figure out a way to add some kind of hinged
fitting to the mast and add a drop down leg for support. This would
allow me to stow it with the leaves straddling the mast and leave the
space more open when the table is not in use.

However, the existing stand/pedestal required a 4 or 5 inch hole thru
the sole piece that it was mounted too.

So, I need a small piece of 3/4 teak and holly plywood, about 9.5x28

I have to do some larger sole repairs but, not until next winter and I
don't want to buy the 4x8 sheet yet because i don't want to store it. I
do have some 3/4 marine plywood i could use temporarily but, I'd rather
just do it with the teak and holly if I can get hold of a small piece
somewhere. I'm certainly willing to pay for it or replace it when I buy
the sheet for my sole work next winter.

would anyone have any laying around or know of a resource where I might
be able to get small piece for this repair?

Danny
T40 Rum Runner IV
Mattapoisett, MA


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greatly appreciated!





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Re: Stus-List Small piece of teak and holly Plywood needed

[Harry Hallgring Jr via CnC-List]

Danny,
I have that at home...but I'm in Florida for 10 days if you can wait. 

Harry
Sent from my iPhone 7 beta

> On Apr 18, 2016, at 09:32, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I removed the salon table as I found it doesn't stow very well out of
> the way. My intention is to figure out a way to add some kind of hinged
> fitting to the mast and add a drop down leg for support. This would
> allow me to stow it with the leaves straddling the mast and leave the
> space more open when the table is not in use.
> 
> However, the existing stand/pedestal required a 4 or 5 inch hole thru
> the sole piece that it was mounted too.
> 
> So, I need a small piece of 3/4 teak and holly plywood, about 9.5x28
> 
> I have to do some larger sole repairs but, not until next winter and I
> don't want to buy the 4x8 sheet yet because i don't want to store it. I
> do have some 3/4 marine plywood i could use temporarily but, I'd rather
> just do it with the teak and holly if I can get hold of a small piece
> somewhere. I'm certainly willing to pay for it or replace it when I buy
> the sheet for my sole work next winter.
> 
> would anyone have any laying around or know of a resource where I might
> be able to get small piece for this repair?
> 
> Danny
> T40 Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List Small piece of teak and holly Plywood needed

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi guys,

I removed the salon table as I found it doesn't stow very well out of
the way. My intention is to figure out a way to add some kind of hinged
fitting to the mast and add a drop down leg for support. This would
allow me to stow it with the leaves straddling the mast and leave the
space more open when the table is not in use.

However, the existing stand/pedestal required a 4 or 5 inch hole thru
the sole piece that it was mounted too.

So, I need a small piece of 3/4 teak and holly plywood, about 9.5x28

I have to do some larger sole repairs but, not until next winter and I
don't want to buy the 4x8 sheet yet because i don't want to store it. I
do have some 3/4 marine plywood i could use temporarily but, I'd rather
just do it with the teak and holly if I can get hold of a small piece
somewhere. I'm certainly willing to pay for it or replace it when I buy
the sheet for my sole work next winter.

would anyone have any laying around or know of a resource where I might
be able to get small piece for this repair?

Danny
T40 Rum Runner IV
Mattapoisett, MA


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Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue

[Raymond Macklin via CnC-List]

I have a 1985 C 33-2.  Every year when i take the boat out of the water,
the cooler drains and is empty.  This year it did not do that. Also last
year the water in the head was not draining either.  Now the question is
where is the problem.  Not sure about the plumbing of the cooler.  Any
guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Ray Macklin
Milwaukee WI
LakeHouse
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Re: Stus-List Galley sink basket/strainer

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Check online for plumbing fittings for RV's (Recreational Vehicles).  You
should find something similar.

Ken H.

On 17 April 2016 at 22:07, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Last winter when we bought Pulse, the surveyor wrote that every hose on
> the boat should be changed, so I'm working on it. They are original to the
> boat, 1985. Replaced the drain hose from the galley sink to the thru hull
> and crushed the little funnel shaped brittle plastic fitting on the bottom
> of the drain basket strainer assembly under the galley sink. Made a quick
> sweep of all the regular websites and can only find a reducing fitting to
> 3/4 inch. The sink drain hose is 1 inch. Don't want to replace the thru
> hull nor have a restriction in that line. Anyone have a suggestion? Maybe
> there's a domestic plumbing fitting I'm missing out on?
> Thank you
> Brad
> "Pulse" 1985 C 33 MkII
> Lake Huron
>
> I'd rather be sailing
>
>
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