Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Robin Drew via CnC-List]

Thanks.

Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060

> On Jun 6, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have some C&C charts on my iPad that show the original prop for several of 
> the models, original engine models, and prop sizes. 16 X 10 is the ONLY size 
> listed for the 33-2 in either fixed or folding. When I figure out how to load 
> it I will post here. It may have come from the CnC photo album, I just can't 
> remember.
> 
> 
> I'd rather be sailing
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Robin Drew via CnC-List]

Thanks this is great to have. Perfect.
Robin

Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060

> On Jun 6, 2016, at 8:00 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> http://www.candc33mkii.com/maintenance-tips/
> Here is a link to the tables for the 33 MKII, there's lots of info here. I 
> believe they are copied from the original owners manual.
> Brad
> "Pulse" C&C 33 MKII 
> Lake Huron
> 
> I'd rather be sailing
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List Suspend service

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Stu, Please stop messages for the reminder of June while I am off sailing.

Thanks
Fred Hazzard
C&C 44
S/V Fury
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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Robin Drew via CnC-List]

Many thanks. Very useful chart. I'll check my transmission gears ratio to be 
sure.
Robin

Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060

> On Jun 6, 2016, at 6:10 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Recommended size also depends in part on which gearing was supplied with your 
> engine.
> This link is to a Yanmar chart of recommended propeller sizes.
>  
> http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/yanmar/shopping/parts_references/prop.php
> - Original Message -
> From: S Thomas via CnC-List
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: S Thomas
> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2016 12:57
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller
> 
> I have a 13 X 9 on my 27MKIII which works well, so that sounds about right.
>  
> Steve Thomas
> Port Stanley, ON
> - Original Message -
> From: Robin Drew via CnC-List
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Robin Drew
> Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2016 22:28
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller
> 
> Thanks. I just bought the boat and I'm pretty annoyed but sure the problem is 
> that it's  worn and needs maintenance. I'm planning on removing it and 
> putting a simple 2 blade prop on, at least for now.
> 
> It's hard to get info about the size and pitch specs. However, I found a 
> website in BC that has a prop calculator and it gave me 15" with 9" pitch for 
> my boat (CNC 33/2), engine and transmission. Does this sound right?
> 
> Any comments?
> Robin Drew
> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
> 
>> On May 29, 2016, at 4:32 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> The obvious question in this case with a folding prop, is do all the blades 
>> open all the way?
>> Once it is in the water it is hard to tell unless you can dive on it.
>> I bought a used 2 blade prop recently that is geared so that the halves are 
>> supposed to open evenly. The pins are so worn in the prop body that the gear 
>> teeth can jump one another and it gets stuck so that one blade does not open 
>> all the way. In my case the prop needs to be re-built.
>> The short answer is that anything that causes one blade to stick will cause 
>> the problem you describe.
>> There are other possibilities, but that is the easiest to check.
>>  
>> Steve Thomas
>> C&C27 MKIII
>> Port Stanley, ON  
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Robin Drew via CnC-List
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Robin Drew
>> Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
>> Subject: Stus-List Propeller
>> 
>> I have just purchased a C&C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
>> clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
>> vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?
>> 
>> Robin Drew
>> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
>> "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR
>> ___
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Robin Drew via CnC-List]

Many thanks for your help.
Robin

Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060

> On Jun 6, 2016, at 5:01 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> You want the largest diameter prop that still gives you a couple of inches 
> clearance.  Then, while under way while in gear, run the engine at full 
> throttle.  If you can't reach maximum RPM, you're over pitched.  If you can 
> rev up substantially higher than max RPM, you're under pitched.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>> 
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Robin Drew via CnC-List
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Robin Drew
>> Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2016 22:28
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller
>> 
>> Thanks. I just bought the boat and I'm pretty annoyed but sure the problem 
>> is that it's  worn and needs maintenance. I'm planning on removing it and 
>> putting a simple 2 blade prop on, at least for now.
>> 
>> It's hard to get info about the size and pitch specs. However, I found a 
>> website in BC that has a prop calculator and it gave me 15" with 9" pitch 
>> for my boat (CNC 33/2), engine and transmission. Does this sound right?
>> 
>> Any comments?
>> Robin Drew
>> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Hi Bradley, I took a quick look on the cncphotoalbum website and didn't see 
those charts under the technical info pages. If you happen to have the 
propeller specs for a C&C 30 Mark I with an Atomic-4 engine, I would be 
interested to see those. Right now I've got a fixed 2-blade. For next year I'd 
like to look into a folding prop, so I'd like to know the original specs. 
Thanks in advance. 

Best Regards, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Bradley Lumgair"  
Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 5:42:29 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller 

I have some C&C charts on my iPad that show the original prop for several of 
the models, original engine models, and prop sizes. 16 X 10 is the ONLY size 
listed for the 33-2 in either fixed or folding. When I figure out how to load 
it I will post here. It may have come from the CnC photo album, I just can't 
remember. 

I'd rather be sailing 


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Re: Stus-List Matching Traveler Track Dimensions 29 Mark II

[O'Keeffe Thomas via CnC-List]

The Garhauer fits the recess in the bridgedeck well. The modification to the 
traveller car was to countersink screws rather than flush mount. That plus 
adding 1/4 spacer under track. They also predrilled track holes per my spec.  
Can send pictures if interested. Additional  charge for modifications was 
reasonable.  
Tom O'KeeffeBridie MaeC&C 29-2Douglaston NY
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Re: Stus-List Water pooling inside aft toe rail C&C 29 mk II

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Gene,

 

I think most of us have areas on deck where water pools.  Some people put a 
small piece of sponge in the toe rail.  Others use a small piece of cotton rope 
to wick the water away.  Both seem to work.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eugene Fodor 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 18:48
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Eugene Fodor 
Subject: Stus-List Water pooling inside aft toe rail C&C 29 mk II

 

Anyone else who owns a C&C 29 mark II have problems where water pools on the 
aft part of the gunwales just inside the toe rail? I noticed the water doesn't 
run out and I'm curious if it's unique to my boat or others have had the same 
problem. No intrusion has occurred as far as I can tell.

 

Also update on my head repair: Turns out it was a Brydon 59128- which is 
discontinued, but the Dutch RM69 5xx models appears to use almost exactly the 
same parts (found a post where someone used them). Just need to see if I can 
locate a sealed gland that will work for the pump rod.

 

Thanks,

 

Gene Fodor
C&C 29-II
Hawk

 

PS. There just isn't enough hand sanitizer in the world to feel clean after 
disassembling your old head pump.

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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

http://www.candc33mkii.com/maintenance-tips/
Here is a link to the tables for the 33 MKII, there's lots of info here. I 
believe they are copied from the original owners manual.
Brad
"Pulse" C&C 33 MKII
Lake Huron
[X][X]
I'd rather be sailing

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Re: Stus-List Water pooling inside aft toe rail C&C 29 mk II

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I just took a Dremel and created a low spot in the Toe rail so the water
drained

Joel

On Monday, June 6, 2016, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
wrote:

> A variation on the line/toe rail is that I use pieces of micro fiber dish
> clothes. I get mine at trader joes and use them on rail when they get too
> grungy for dishes. I have the same pooling issue on our 30-2. They wick
> very well.
>
> KD
>
> On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 4:38 PM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>> I got this tip on the list: hang a scrap piece of line through the toe
>> rail where the water pools. The line will act like a syphon and drain the
>> pooling water overboard. Good way to prevent black streaks too.
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 6:47 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> Anyone else who owns a C&C 29 mark II have problems where water pools on
>>> the aft part of the gunwales just inside the toe rail? I noticed the water
>>> doesn't run out and I'm curious if it's unique to my boat or others have
>>> had the same problem. No intrusion has occurred as far as I can tell.
>>>
>>> Also update on my head repair: Turns out it was a Brydon 59128-
>>> which is discontinued, but the Dutch RM69 5xx models appears to use almost
>>> exactly the same parts (found a post where someone used them). Just need to
>>> see if I can locate a sealed gland that will work for the pump rod.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Gene Fodor
>>> C&C 29-II
>>> Hawk
>>>
>>> PS. There just isn't enough hand sanitizer in the world to feel clean
>>> after disassembling your old head pump.
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Water pooling inside aft toe rail C&C 29 mk II

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

A variation on the line/toe rail is that I use pieces of micro fiber dish
clothes. I get mine at trader joes and use them on rail when they get too
grungy for dishes. I have the same pooling issue on our 30-2. They wick
very well.

KD

On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 4:38 PM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I got this tip on the list: hang a scrap piece of line through the toe
> rail where the water pools. The line will act like a syphon and drain the
> pooling water overboard. Good way to prevent black streaks too.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 6:47 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Anyone else who owns a C&C 29 mark II have problems where water pools on
>> the aft part of the gunwales just inside the toe rail? I noticed the water
>> doesn't run out and I'm curious if it's unique to my boat or others have
>> had the same problem. No intrusion has occurred as far as I can tell.
>>
>> Also update on my head repair: Turns out it was a Brydon 59128- which
>> is discontinued, but the Dutch RM69 5xx models appears to use almost
>> exactly the same parts (found a post where someone used them). Just need to
>> see if I can locate a sealed gland that will work for the pump rod.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Gene Fodor
>> C&C 29-II
>> Hawk
>>
>> PS. There just isn't enough hand sanitizer in the world to feel clean
>> after disassembling your old head pump.
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

I have some C&C charts on my iPad that show the original prop for several of 
the models, original engine models, and prop sizes. 16 X 10 is the ONLY size 
listed for the 33-2 in either fixed or folding. When I figure out how to load 
it I will post here. It may have come from the CnC photo album, I just can't 
remember.

[X][X]
I'd rather be sailing

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Re: Stus-List Water pooling inside aft toe rail C&C 29 mk II

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I got this tip on the list: hang a scrap piece of line through the toe rail
where the water pools. The line will act like a syphon and drain the
pooling water overboard. Good way to prevent black streaks too.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 6:47 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anyone else who owns a C&C 29 mark II have problems where water pools on
> the aft part of the gunwales just inside the toe rail? I noticed the water
> doesn't run out and I'm curious if it's unique to my boat or others have
> had the same problem. No intrusion has occurred as far as I can tell.
>
> Also update on my head repair: Turns out it was a Brydon 59128- which
> is discontinued, but the Dutch RM69 5xx models appears to use almost
> exactly the same parts (found a post where someone used them). Just need to
> see if I can locate a sealed gland that will work for the pump rod.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gene Fodor
> C&C 29-II
> Hawk
>
> PS. There just isn't enough hand sanitizer in the world to feel clean
> after disassembling your old head pump.
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Water pooling inside aft toe rail C&C 29 mk II

[Eugene Fodor via CnC-List]

Anyone else who owns a C&C 29 mark II have problems where water pools on
the aft part of the gunwales just inside the toe rail? I noticed the water
doesn't run out and I'm curious if it's unique to my boat or others have
had the same problem. No intrusion has occurred as far as I can tell.

Also update on my head repair: Turns out it was a Brydon 59128- which
is discontinued, but the Dutch RM69 5xx models appears to use almost
exactly the same parts (found a post where someone used them). Just need to
see if I can locate a sealed gland that will work for the pump rod.

Thanks,

Gene Fodor
C&C 29-II
Hawk

PS. There just isn't enough hand sanitizer in the world to feel clean after
disassembling your old head pump.
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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I have the units that take a winch handle and like them.  They are made of 
aluminum and have O-rings.  I put a light coating of petroleum jelly on the 
threads and O-rings to prevent seizing.

 

Has anyone found a source for spare caps?  I keep a 1-1/2” PVC pipe plug as an 
emergency spare.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 



 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 6:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

 

As a last resort, drill a hole through the center large
enough to take a hacksaw or jigsaw blade. Cut out to
the edge including into the threads at a location that
is just a bit counterclockwise from one of the original
holes. Use a punch at a low angle and hammer.

At some point I will replace my fittings, what does the
group think of the units that use a winch handle vs the
key?

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Love the ones that take winch handles - but I haven't dropped a handle in
the drink yet.

Joel

On Monday, June 6, 2016, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
wrote:

> As a last resort, drill a hole through the center large
> enough to take a hacksaw or jigsaw blade. Cut out to
> the edge including into the threads at a location that
> is just a bit counterclockwise from one of the original
> holes. Use a punch at a low angle and hammer.
>
> At some point I will replace my fittings, what does the
> group think of the units that use a winch handle vs the
> key?
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

At some point you may apply so much torque that you shear off the existing
screws holding the fitting to the deck.  Beware!

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 13:43
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: David 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

 

FWIW:

Perhaps one more try with PB Blaster?

Unscrew fitting and twist the fitting off of the hose?

Tap into the cap holes and screw in some substantial bolts...use a large
lever to persuade it off?

Worse case unscrew the fitting, cut hose where you can see it and pull the
whole dang thing out.  Of course that necessitates you replacing the whole
hose.   Not a bad thing (especially when I am not the one doing it!).

Good luck.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

As a last resort, drill a hole through the center large
enough to take a hacksaw or jigsaw blade. Cut out to
the edge including into the threads at a location that
is just a bit counterclockwise from one of the original
holes. Use a punch at a low angle and hammer.

At some point I will replace my fittings, what does the
group think of the units that use a winch handle vs the
key?

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Recommended size also depends in part on which gearing was supplied with your 
engine.
This link is to a Yanmar chart of recommended propeller sizes. 

http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/yanmar/shopping/parts_references/prop.php
  - Original Message - 
  From: S Thomas via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: S Thomas 
  Sent: Monday, June 06, 2016 12:57
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller


  I have a 13 X 9 on my 27MKIII which works well, so that sounds about right. 

  Steve Thomas
  Port Stanley, ON
- Original Message - 
From: Robin Drew via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Robin Drew 
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2016 22:28
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller


Thanks. I just bought the boat and I'm pretty annoyed but sure the problem 
is that it's  worn and needs maintenance. I'm planning on removing it and 
putting a simple 2 blade prop on, at least for now.


It's hard to get info about the size and pitch specs. However, I found a 
website in BC that has a prop calculator and it gave me 15" with 9" pitch for 
my boat (CNC 33/2), engine and transmission. Does this sound right?

Any comments?
Robin Drew 
Mobile: +1 514 4632060

On May 29, 2016, at 4:32 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
wrote:


  The obvious question in this case with a folding prop, is do all the 
blades open all the way?
  Once it is in the water it is hard to tell unless you can dive on it. 
  I bought a used 2 blade prop recently that is geared so that the halves 
are supposed to open evenly. The pins are so worn in the prop body that the 
gear teeth can jump one another and it gets stuck so that one blade does not 
open all the way. In my case the prop needs to be re-built. 
  The short answer is that anything that causes one blade to stick will 
cause the problem you describe. 
  There are other possibilities, but that is the easiest to check. 

  Steve Thomas
  C&C27 MKIII
  Port Stanley, ON  
- Original Message - 
From: Robin Drew via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Robin Drew 
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
Subject: Stus-List Propeller


I have just purchased a C&C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?

Robin Drew 
Mobile: +1 514 4632060

"The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR





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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Robin,

I do remember the original fixed blades prop of my 33 mk II with original 
Yanmar 2gmf was 16", will have to check for the pitch but I think it is 12. I 
will be back home in two days to verify that.

I ordered a Flexofold 3 blades and they recommended 15" /9". The blade area is 
larger and I think it is too much prop for my boat, I can't push the engine 
over 2800. But it is a good prop and I deal with it.

Bruno lachance
Becassine, 33 mkIi
New Richmond, Qc


Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 5 juin 2016 à 22:29, Robin Drew via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Thanks. I just bought the boat and I'm pretty annoyed but sure the problem is 
> that it's  worn and needs maintenance. I'm planning on removing it and 
> putting a simple 2 blade prop on, at least for now.
> 
> It's hard to get info about the size and pitch specs. However, I found a 
> website in BC that has a prop calculator and it gave me 15" with 9" pitch for 
> my boat (CNC 33/2), engine and transmission. Does this sound right?
> 
> Any comments?
> Robin Drew
> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
> 
>> On May 29, 2016, at 4:32 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> The obvious question in this case with a folding prop, is do all the blades 
>> open all the way?
>> Once it is in the water it is hard to tell unless you can dive on it.
>> I bought a used 2 blade prop recently that is geared so that the halves are 
>> supposed to open evenly. The pins are so worn in the prop body that the gear 
>> teeth can jump one another and it gets stuck so that one blade does not open 
>> all the way. In my case the prop needs to be re-built.
>> The short answer is that anything that causes one blade to stick will cause 
>> the problem you describe.
>> There are other possibilities, but that is the easiest to check.
>>  
>> Steve Thomas
>> C&C27 MKIII
>> Port Stanley, ON  
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Robin Drew via CnC-List
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Robin Drew
>> Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
>> Subject: Stus-List Propeller
>> 
>> I have just purchased a C&C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
>> clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
>> vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?
>> 
>> Robin Drew
>> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
>> "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

Robin
I just happen to have a picture of my folding prop on my 33-2, it's 16D X 10P, 
Eliptec. engine is yanmar 2gm20f. It will rev to about 3300 rpm and pushes the 
boat at better than 6 knots unless I'm heading upriver, under the bridge where 
the current is 6-7 knots against us. Then we see about 2.9 knots.
Brad
"Pulse" 1985 C&C 33 MKII
Lake Huron


[X][X]
I'd rather be sailing

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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

You want the largest diameter prop that still gives you a couple of inches
clearance.  Then, while under way while in gear, run the engine at full
throttle.  If you can't reach maximum RPM, you're over pitched.  If you can
rev up substantially higher than max RPM, you're under pitched.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Robin Drew via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Robin Drew 
> *Sent:* Sunday, June 05, 2016 22:28
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller
>
> Thanks. I just bought the boat and I'm pretty annoyed but sure the problem
> is that it's  worn and needs maintenance. I'm planning on removing it and
> putting a simple 2 blade prop on, at least for now.
>
> It's hard to get info about the size and pitch specs. However, I found a
> website in BC that has a prop calculator and it gave me 15" with 9" pitch
> for my boat (CNC 33/2), engine and transmission. Does this sound right?
>
> Any comments?
> Robin Drew
> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
>
>
>
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Stus-List 33-2 stock breaker ratings?

[Dave via CnC-List]

At the boat and would like to avoid taking apart  the panel to find out... 
Anyone know the trip ratings of the stockvhf and instrument breakers?  Tx!
Dave

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

[Harry Hallgring Jr via CnC-List]

Sea Foam Deep Creep...good stuff!

Harry
Sent from my iPhone 7 beta

> On Jun 6, 2016, at 13:59, John Pennie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> WD40?

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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

WD40?

> On Jun 6, 2016, at 1:43 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> FWIW:
> 
> Perhaps one more try with PB Blaster?
> 
> Unscrew fitting and twist the fitting off of the hose?
> 
> Tap into the cap holes and screw in some substantial bolts...use a large 
> lever to persuade it off?
> 
> Worse case unscrew the fitting, cut hose where you can see it and pull the 
> whole dang thing out.  Of course that necessitates you replacing the whole 
> hose.   Not a bad thing (especially when I am not the one doing it!).
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 12:15:20 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> CC: dainyr...@icloud.com 
> 
> Also, a good spanner wrench (and a hammer) may do the trick...
> 
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
> 
> On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:06 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit the 
> holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the plate 
> open. 
> I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell from 
> the tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through the vent.
> Can you follow the hose to find the deck plate? It sounds like it's time to 
> replace it anyway.
> 
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Suggestions needed:
> I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a 
> number of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything 
> functional and replaced items that needed updates.  
> So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a 
> good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.
> Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste 
> fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has corroded 
> itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried several deck keys and 
> tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the tool), an 
> application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic tipped 
> mallet to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get enough 
> purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting lid as 
> they’re only several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper?
>  
> My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma 
> begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the 
> build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the boat 
> up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into 
> submission?   I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free 
> corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both 
> appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to the 
> corrosive nature of what’s in the tank.   Has anyone come up with a “super 
> tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?
> I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have 
> no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is 
> simply screwed in place?
> While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend 
> the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help is 
> out there, I’m open to suggestions.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> Padanaram, MA
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
> 
> phone  +401 965 5260
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___ This list is supported by the 
> generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay 
> for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
>  
> 

Re: Stus-List Propeller shaft tube leak

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

You mean to say that someone mounted a zinc on the propeller shaft, and it 
rubbed against the fibreglass until it wore through? 
Seems hard to believe that anyone would put up with the noise that would make 
long enough for it to wear through. 
That said, fibreglass can be repaired, but I think that you need to take a 
second real close look at what is going on first before proceeding further. 

Does the rubber hose connecting the prop shaft tube to the stuffing box appear 
to be in good shape?
Are the hose clamps intact? Stainless or not, they do corrode and break. 
Other than the hose clamps, the rubber tube itself is the weakest link. 
You are certain that the water is not coming from the packing and running back 
underneath?

Is the boat out of the water? 
If the leak is not the packing itself then you will undoubtedly have to haul 
the boat to fix it properly, although you might get away with a temporary fix 
using urethane moisture cured sealant providing you find the leak's source. 

I just went through the process of removing the propeller shaft and replacing 
the stuffing box on my 36. It is not a task to be undertaken lightly, but 
failure of the stuffing box attachment to the prop shaft tube is not a trivial 
event.  
On that boat, a 2 1/2 year growth of barnacles and other marine accretions 
caused great friction between the stuffing box and the propeller shaft, and 
with a loud grinding noise the stuffing box and its rubber hose attachment 
broke free from the propeller shaft tube. The leak was sudden and considerable. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36
Merritt Island, FL

  - Original Message - 
  From: Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Jerome Tauber 
  Sent: Monday, June 06, 2016 06:22
  Subject: Stus-List Propeller shaft tube leak


  I have a leak which appears to be coming from below the stuffing box from the 
shaft tube itself.  Has anyone ever experienced this.  Can the tube be repaired 
or does it have to be replaced.   It appears that someone mounted a zinc on the 
tube and the tube wore through there.   The engine is a Yanmar 1GM.  Jerry J&J 
C&C 27V




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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey Dave,  

Thanks!  I'm ball parking, but I'd say this is approximately how long each 
portion took. 

1.5 hrs to tape off the boat
4 hrs to sand initially with 150 grit
2 hrs to prime 
(New day)
2 hrs to sand primer 
1.5 hrs to prime 
(New day)
2 hrs to sand primer again
2 hrs for first finish coat
(New day)
.75 hrs to sand
1.5 hrs for second finish coat
(New day)
.75 hrs to sand
1.5 hrs for final finish coat
(New day)
3 hrs total to tape off and do a couple coats of paint on the stripes and 
stars.  You could also do these with a stencil (but I just used bits and pieces 
of tape)

If my math is right, that's a total of about 22.5 hrs.  This was spread out 
over a couple of weeks.



> On Jun 6, 2016, at 4:27 AM, davidjaco...@comcast.net wrote:
> 
> Ryan.
> Your results look great. How many hours would you guess you put into the 
> paint job?
> Dave J
> Saltaire
> CC35 MK3
> Bristol, RI
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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

[David via CnC-List]

FWIW:

Perhaps one more try with PB Blaster?

Unscrew fitting and twist the fitting off of the hose?

Tap into the cap holes and screw in some substantial bolts...use a large lever 
to persuade it off?

Worse case unscrew the fitting, cut hose where you can see it and pull the 
whole dang thing out.  Of course that necessitates you replacing the whole 
hose.   Not a bad thing (especially when I am not the one doing it!).

Good luck.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 12:15:20 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: dainyr...@icloud.com

Also, a good spanner wrench (and a hammer) may do the trick...

Bob Boyers/v Rainy DaysC&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)Annapolis, MD (presently in 
Baltimore)blog: dainyrays.blogspot.comemail: dainyr...@icloud.com
On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:06 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List  
wrote:

Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit the 
holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the plate open. 
I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell from the 
tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through the vent.
Can you follow the hose to find the deck plate? It sounds like it's time to 
replace it anyway.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Suggestions needed:I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been 
“sitting” for a number of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to 
get everything functional and replaced items that needed updates.  So, after 
several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a good idea to 
pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.Well the one 
thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste fitting at the 
deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has corroded itself closed 
over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried several deck keys and tools (also 
using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the tool), an application of 
liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic tipped mallet to try and free 
the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get enough purchase on the tips of the 
tool into the holes in the deck fitting lid as they’re only several mm deep.  
Should I drill the holes deeper? My next approach is going to involve heat, but 
here’s where the dilemma begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something 
that may ignite the build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow 
myself and the boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating 
it into submission?   I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free 
corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both appear 
to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to the 
corrosive nature of what’s in the tank.   Has anyone come up with a “super 
tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?I also haven’t found below 
deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have no idea if it is through 
bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is simply screwed in place?While I 
don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend the entire 
summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help is out there, 
I’m open to suggestions.Chuck GilchrestHalf Magic1983 LF 35Padanaram, MA 
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-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260

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greatly appreciated!



Virus-free. www.avast.com


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Re: Stus-List 2016 C&C Northeast Rendezvous -- Mystic Seaport, CT -- Sept 10-12, 2016

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi all, 
I apologize for not stripping my previous response to Rick. 

Enjoyed the video of past rendezvous and saw myself at the first one at Mystic 
Seaport. I will not be bringing the boat but will try and drive up to share 
beers w you guys. Mystic is a favorite place of mine. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -


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Re: Stus-List 2016 C&C Northeast Rendezvous -- Mystic Seaport, CT -- Sept 10-12, 2016

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Rick, 
I've run Cape May to C&D several times and found I could stay in the tide all 
the way up. I time it to leave Cape May after low tide, so it is flooding in as 
get to the shipping channel. I run just outside it on the Jersey side and hit 
the C&D at slack after High tide. I run the C&D as the tide switches and ride 
the ebb south down the Chesapeake. The last time I ran my boat alone and ran 
from Cape May to Sassafrass River in one shot. Going the opposite way you don't 
have the tide helping for as long, because it is a wave headed West and you are 
headed Southeast, so the tide helps you for 4 hours maybe. Best to time it so 
high tide happens twice the day you go, like 5am and 5pm to get two ebbs. Get 
through the C&D at 6am and then into a favorable ebbing current where the river 
is narrow, run south with the greatest boost from the tide, then after about 4 
hours, you'll loose the tides help so get out of the adverse current, and just 
keep speed up as best you can for a while until the tide fights you and then 
reverses again, helping you again. 

Love Cohansey River. I winter stored my boat at Hancock Harbor for 7 years. 
Great people. Docking can be difficult because of the strong currents, but I 
usually timed it to arrive near slack water, and got so I could do it solo. If 
the tide is running, just anchor out till it settles down. Things can go wrong 
quickly when it's running at 5 knots. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "rick bushie via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "rick bushie"  
Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 12:34:37 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2016 C&C Northeast Rendezvous -- Mystic Seaport, CT -- 
Sept 10-12, 2016 

It's just under 65 miles from Chesapeake City to Cape May. Hitting the current 
right is critical if I want to get there in under 12 hours. I've found that a 
confluence of favorable wind and current is as common as sightings of the 
Jersey Devil. If worse comes to worse, I can duck into Cohansey Cove for a 
break. 12 - 14 hour trips are no problem as long as I'm not crashing into 6 
foot square chop not too uncommon on the DelBay with opposing forces. But, 
you're absolutely right about the canal route being the way to go. 

Rick Bushie 
Anchovy, 1971, 30-1 
Tolchester, MD 

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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I have a 13 X 9 on my 27MKIII which works well, so that sounds about right. 

Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robin Drew via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Robin Drew 
  Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2016 22:28
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller


  Thanks. I just bought the boat and I'm pretty annoyed but sure the problem is 
that it's  worn and needs maintenance. I'm planning on removing it and putting 
a simple 2 blade prop on, at least for now.


  It's hard to get info about the size and pitch specs. However, I found a 
website in BC that has a prop calculator and it gave me 15" with 9" pitch for 
my boat (CNC 33/2), engine and transmission. Does this sound right?

  Any comments?
  Robin Drew
  Mobile: +1 514 4632060

  On May 29, 2016, at 4:32 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
wrote:


The obvious question in this case with a folding prop, is do all the blades 
open all the way?
Once it is in the water it is hard to tell unless you can dive on it. 
I bought a used 2 blade prop recently that is geared so that the halves are 
supposed to open evenly. The pins are so worn in the prop body that the gear 
teeth can jump one another and it gets stuck so that one blade does not open 
all the way. In my case the prop needs to be re-built. 
The short answer is that anything that causes one blade to stick will cause 
the problem you describe. 
There are other possibilities, but that is the easiest to check. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robin Drew via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Robin Drew 
  Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
  Subject: Stus-List Propeller


  I have just purchased a C&C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?

  Robin Drew 
  Mobile: +1 514 4632060

  "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR


--


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Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!



--


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Re: Stus-List 2016 C&C Northeast Rendezvous -- Mystic Seaport, CT -- Sept 10-12, 2016

[rick bushie via CnC-List]

It's just under 65 miles from Chesapeake City to Cape May.  Hitting the
current right is critical if I want to get there in under 12 hours.  I've
found that a confluence of favorable wind and current is as common as
sightings of the Jersey Devil.  If worse comes to worse, I can duck into
Cohansey Cove for a break.  12 - 14 hour trips are no problem as long as
I'm not crashing into 6 foot square chop not too uncommon on the DelBay
with opposing forces.  But, you're absolutely right about the canal route
being the way to go.

Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 1971, 30-1
Tolchester, MD
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Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  I second or third the ground! Had that problem for a few years. Engine was dead on the start button, until 3rd or 4th press and then would fire up suddenly. (2GM20F)Bad ground to the trans. case. Cleaned it up and all was fine.I eventually replaced all the battery cables with pre made  cables and ends from Canadian Tire.‎ After 35 years all the wire to end joints get a little suspect and the wire was not that good to start with - not tinned! Fore something like $35 and an hours work, I now get instant starts every time. sam :-)C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta From: Dave Syer via CnC-ListSent: Monday, June 6, 2016 9:05 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Dave SyerSubject: Re: Stus-List Starting ProblemCheck your grounds.   Had what I thought was a dead tach  and it was a corroded ground connection where the main harness from the engine control panel grounded via a ring terminal on a stud to the engine.   This should be a maintenance item...Dave  
--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 12:20:33 +
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C&C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
Message-ID:
        
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I made a video that walks through the starting circuit on my yanmar.  Its
pretty generic, maybe it will help.

https://youtu.be/Mp2cGDa1VOU

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 5, 2016 11:13 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need
> to get done.
>
> Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was
> running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from
> turning the key.
>
>
> Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to
> the radio when trying to turn over the engine.
>
> I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few
> hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start.
> That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the
> engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?).
>
> That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off to
> clean contact but no effect.
>
>
> I figure there are 3 possibilities
>
> 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over
>
> 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of
> noise or power dip indicating that something was seized
>
> 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what
> I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as
> well.  Nothing obviously disconnected
>
>
> I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure
> out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!
>
>
> Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd get a
> voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it
> suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?
>
> 



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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Also, a good spanner wrench (and a hammer) may do the trick...

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:06 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit the 
> holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the plate 
> open. 
> I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell from 
> the tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through the vent.
> Can you follow the hose to find the deck plate? It sounds like it's time to 
> replace it anyway.
> 
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
> 
>> On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Suggestions needed:
>> 
>> I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a 
>> number of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything 
>> functional and replaced items that needed updates. 
>> 
>> So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a 
>> good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.
>> 
>> Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste 
>> fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has 
>> corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried several 
>> deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the 
>> tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic 
>> tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get 
>> enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting 
>> lid as they’re only several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma 
>> begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the 
>> build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the 
>> boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into 
>> submission?   I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free 
>> corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both 
>> appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to 
>> the corrosive nature of what’s in the tank.   Has anyone come up with a 
>> “super tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?
>> 
>> I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have 
>> no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is 
>> simply screwed in place?
>> 
>> While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend 
>> the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help 
>> is out there, I’m open to suggestions.
>> 
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> 
>> Half Magic
>> 
>> 1983 LF 35
>> 
>> Padanaram, MA
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 2016 C&C Northeast Rendezvous -- Mystic Seaport, CT -- Sept 10-12, 2016

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

If I recall my days of sailing between Annapolis/Rock Hall and the Jersey shore 
correctly, Annapolis to the C&D canal is a longish 12 hours. Lay up in the 
basin on the south side of the C&D in Chesapeake City. Catch the eastbound 
current to get blown out into the Delaware south of Wilmington and lay over in 
Cape May after a 10-12 hour trip. Then up the Jersey shore and out to Montauk 
would be an overnight.

 

Takes a lot of miles and a couple of nights at sea off  vs. the trip around the 
Delmarva Peninsula.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of rick bushie 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2016 11:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: rick bushie 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2016 C&C Northeast Rendezvous -- Mystic Seaport, CT -- 
Sept 10-12, 2016

 

David,

 

I plotted an all outside trip out as well.  Down the Chesapeake and up outside 
LI from Norfolk.  Added up to just over 500 miles iirc.  If I decide to make 
the trip, I'll keep an outside route as a contingency if the weather holds. I 
have an autopilot but I haven't seen friends go on sale on Defender.  With my 
winning personality, that might be the only way I could get one.  As it stands 
right now, I'm on vacation from 9/2 - 9/19.  Plenty of time.

 

Rick Bushie

Anchovy, 1971, 30-1

Tolchester, MD

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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

On my Landfall 38, most of the fill (and the pump out) connections were simply 
screwed into the outer skin and butyl tape was used between the fitting and the 
deck.  The trouble with just removing the fitting is that the hose is probably 
still attached (this is another challenging problem--getting the hose off the 
fitting).

There is a rubber o-ring in the lid too.  Heat may make this mess worse.

You may have a lister help you find the underside of the fitting and just 
remove it and replace it.  (Mine is in a locker by my navigation station.)

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jun 6, 2016, at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Suggestions needed:
> I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a 
> number of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything 
> functional and replaced items that needed updates. 
> So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a 
> good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.
> Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste 
> fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has corroded 
> itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried several deck keys and 
> tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the tool), an 
> application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic tipped 
> mallet to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get enough 
> purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting lid as 
> they’re only several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper?
>  
> My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma 
> begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the 
> build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the boat 
> up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into 
> submission?   I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free 
> corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both 
> appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to the 
> corrosive nature of what’s in the tank.   Has anyone come up with a “super 
> tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?
> I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have 
> no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is 
> simply screwed in place?
> While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend 
> the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help is 
> out there, I’m open to suggestions.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> Padanaram, MA
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 2016 C&C Northeast Rendezvous -- Mystic Seaport, CT -- Sept 10-12, 2016

[rick bushie via CnC-List]

Tim,

Oh yeah!  I plan on using the C&D. I taught myself how to sail on the
Delaware in a C-22.  First boat I'd ever owned or operated.  It's 92 miles
to Cape May versus over 250 miles for around Cape Charles.  I was just
looking for entertainment purposes.  So 92 miles to Cape May and 210 miles
to Mystic around Montauk.

Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 1971, 30-1
Tolchester, MD
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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

If it's that corroded I would just pull it and replace it (or work on
reconditioning it once you have it out).

Pulling the deck fills was a recommended survey item on my boat anyway
because they tend to leak after 30+ years. They're in cored sections of the
deck, so leaking deck fills isn't good.

The deck fill can be removed pretty easily if you can access the underside.
There must be some way for you to get at the hose from underneath and pull
it off. Then you just have to remove the 3 screws or thrubolts on the fill.
(most of my deck fills were screwed into the deck rather than thrubolted).
Then when you remove it you can inspect the coring, reseal it (butyl tape),
and heat it all you want to get the cap free.

I don't think heat has any risk of exploding methane though. If your
holding tank's air vent hose isn't clogged, most gases would go out that
way. Even if that's clogged, I'm assuming you haven't been using it a ton
in the last week? Older gases in the tank would've dissipated over time.

-Patrick
1984 C&C LF38

On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 8:19 AM,  wrote:

> From: Chuck Gilchrest 
> To: 
> Cc:
> Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 10:57:17 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
>
> Suggestions needed:
>
> I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a
> number of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything
> functional and replaced items that needed updates.
>
> So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a
> good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.
>
> Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste
> fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has
> corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried several
> deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the
> tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic
> tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get
> enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting
> lid as they’re only several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper?
>
>
>
> My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma
> begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the
> build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the
> boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into
> submission?   I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free
> corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both
> appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to
> the corrosive nature of what’s in the tank.   Has anyone come up with a
> “super tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?
>
> I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I
> have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it
> is simply screwed in place?
>
> While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to
> spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever
> help is out there, I’m open to suggestions.
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> Half Magic
>
> 1983 LF 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
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Re: Stus-List 2016 C&C Northeast Rendezvous -- Mystic Seaport, CT -- Sept 10-12, 2016

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Rick, I've found the C & D canal takes off a lot of miles over the Norfolk 
route.  I know the Delaware can be a pain, but have you checked that out?

> On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:18 AM, rick bushie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> David,
> 
> I plotted an all outside trip out as well.  Down the Chesapeake and up 
> outside LI from Norfolk.  Added up to just over 500 miles iirc.  If I decide 
> to make the trip, I'll keep an outside route as a contingency if the weather 
> holds. I have an autopilot but I haven't seen friends go on sale on Defender. 
>  With my winning personality, that might be the only way I could get one.  As 
> it stands right now, I'm on vacation from 9/2 - 9/19.  Plenty of time.
> 
> Rick Bushie
> Anchovy, 1971, 30-1
> Tolchester, MD
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

[robert via CnC-List]

Chuck:

You can try a homemade solution of 50%-50% power steering fluid and 
acetone..apply with an eye dropper or dab carefully with a 
Q-tip..careful not to get the solution on the deck as the acetone 
will be destructive.


I have successfully used this solution in the home, on my car and the 
boat to free up seized parts.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2016-06-06 11:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:


Suggestions needed:

I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for 
a number of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get 
everything functional and replaced items that needed updates.


So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may 
be a good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor 
in the boat.


Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the 
waste fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined 
has corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried 
several deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an 
extension to the tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a 
punch with a plastic tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting.  
No luck.  I just can get enough purchase on the tips of the tool into 
the holes in the deck fitting lid as they’re only several mm deep.  
Should I drill the holes deeper?


My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the 
dilemma begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may 
ignite the build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow 
myself and the boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before 
beating it into submission?   I’ve generally had good luck with 
applying heat to free corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the 
fill cap and flange both appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the 
bonding has occurred due to the corrosive nature of what’s in the 
tank.   Has anyone come up with a “super tool” that can unscrew the 
most stubborn deck fills?


I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so 
I have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or 
if it is simply screwed in place?


While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to 
spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so 
whatever help is out there, I’m open to suggestions.


Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA



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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 2016 C&C Northeast Rendezvous -- Mystic Seaport, CT -- Sept 10-12, 2016

[rick bushie via CnC-List]

David,

I plotted an all outside trip out as well.  Down the Chesapeake and up
outside LI from Norfolk.  Added up to just over 500 miles iirc.  If I
decide to make the trip, I'll keep an outside route as a contingency if the
weather holds. I have an autopilot but I haven't seen friends go on sale on
Defender.  With my winning personality, that might be the only way I could
get one.  As it stands right now, I'm on vacation from 9/2 - 9/19.  Plenty
of time.

Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 1971, 30-1
Tolchester, MD
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Thank you Joel,

My deck fitting is on the opposite side of the boat from the hanging locker.  
On the main salon side, it is blocked off by a bulkhead that supports the 
chainplates and MAY be accessible behind the cabinetry in the head.  I haven’t 
started ripping into the interior to explore that option as yet.  FYI, my boat 
has the “traditional” layout for the Landfall 35, not the “couple’s cruiser” 
layout with the head and galley amidships on port and starboard respectively.  
My deck fitting is just forward of the starboard chainplates (which also tend 
to get in the way of access with a large tool!).

Chuck

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 11:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

 

Chuck,

 

Had the same problem, but I was able to find the hose/deck fitting in the 
hanging locker, disconnect the hose and replace the deck fitting.  I tried 
drilling, beating, cursing, but did not try a torch.  Good luck!

 

Joel

 

On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Suggestions needed:

I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a number 
of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything functional 
and replaced items that needed updates.  

So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a good 
idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.

Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste 
fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has corroded 
itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried several deck keys and 
tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the tool), an 
application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic tipped mallet 
to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get enough purchase on 
the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting lid as they’re only 
several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper?

 

My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma begins- 
 Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the build-up of 
methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the boat up using a 
butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into submission?   I’ve 
generally had good luck with applying heat to free corrosion caused by 
dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both appear to be chromed bronze 
and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to the corrosive nature of what’s in 
the tank.   Has anyone come up with a “super tool” that can unscrew the most 
stubborn deck fills?

I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have no 
idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is simply 
screwed in place?

While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend the 
entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help is out 
there, I’m open to suggestions.

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!





 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Chuck,

Had the same problem, but I was able to find the hose/deck fitting in the
hanging locker, disconnect the hose and replace the deck fitting.  I tried
drilling, beating, cursing, but did not try a torch.  Good luck!

Joel

On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Suggestions needed:
>
> I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a
> number of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything
> functional and replaced items that needed updates.
>
> So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a
> good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.
>
> Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste
> fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has
> corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried several
> deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the
> tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic
> tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get
> enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting
> lid as they’re only several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper?
>
>
>
> My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma
> begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the
> build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the
> boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into
> submission?   I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free
> corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both
> appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to
> the corrosive nature of what’s in the tank.   Has anyone come up with a
> “super tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?
>
> I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I
> have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it
> is simply screwed in place?
>
> While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to
> spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever
> help is out there, I’m open to suggestions.
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> Half Magic
>
> 1983 LF 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit
the holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the
plate open.
I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell from
the tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through the vent.
Can you follow the hose to find the deck plate? It sounds like it's time to
replace it anyway.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Suggestions needed:
>
> I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a
> number of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything
> functional and replaced items that needed updates.
>
> So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a
> good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.
>
> Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste
> fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has
> corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried several
> deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the
> tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic
> tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get
> enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting
> lid as they’re only several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper?
>
>
>
> My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma
> begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the
> build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the
> boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into
> submission?   I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free
> corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both
> appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to
> the corrosive nature of what’s in the tank.   Has anyone come up with a
> “super tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?
>
> I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I
> have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it
> is simply screwed in place?
>
> While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to
> spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever
> help is out there, I’m open to suggestions.
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> Half Magic
>
> 1983 LF 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

Check your grounds.   Had what I thought was a dead tach  and it was a
corroded ground connection where the main harness from the engine control
panel grounded via a ring terminal on a stud to the engine.
This should be a maintenance item...

Dave








> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 12:20:33 +
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
> Message-ID:
> <
> ca+zacraog0mc07h4apnzdeo2kxhv_gfjlpgtm+exkwselmc...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I made a video that walks through the starting circuit on my yanmar.  Its
> pretty generic, maybe it will help.
>
> https://youtu.be/Mp2cGDa1VOU
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Jun 5, 2016 11:13 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need
> > to get done.
> >
> > Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was
> > running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from
> > turning the key.
> >
> >
> > Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to
> > the radio when trying to turn over the engine.
> >
> > I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few
> > hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start.
> > That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with
> the
> > engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?).
> >
> > That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off to
> > clean contact but no effect.
> >
> >
> > I figure there are 3 possibilities
> >
> > 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over
> >
> > 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of
> > noise or power dip indicating that something was seized
> >
> > 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what
> > I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as
> > well.  Nothing obviously disconnected
> >
> >
> > I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure
> > out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!
> >
> >
> > Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd get
> a
> > voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it
> > suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?
> >
> >
>
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Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Suggestions needed:

I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been "sitting" for a
number of years.  I've painstakingly gone through systems to get everything
functional and replaced items that needed updates.  

So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a
good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.

Well the one thing that wasn't checked in my systems review was the waste
fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has
corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I've tried several
deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the
tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic
tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get
enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting
lid as they're only several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper?

 

My next approach is going to involve heat, but here's where the dilemma
begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the
build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the
boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into
submission?   I've generally had good luck with applying heat to free
corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both
appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to
the corrosive nature of what's in the tank.   Has anyone come up with a
"super tool" that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?

I also haven't found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have
no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is
simply screwed in place?

While I don't think the tank is anywhere near full, I'd prefer not to spend
the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help
is out there, I'm open to suggestions.

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 

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Re: Stus-List Asymmetric chute

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Hoist it to the masthead and use a longish tack line. Try to keep the luff
fairly tight so the sail doesn't drift off to leeward and become an air
brake when you're reaching.

To drop the sail, the easiest way is to turn downwind and then ease the
tack line and sheet it in tight behind the main. The main will blanket it
so there is no wind/pressure in the sail and you can ease the halyard and
douse it even in windy conditions with no trouble.

 An even better solution is to get a spinnaker sock and follow the
directions for using that. The sock makes getting the spinnaker up and down
on Peregrine a snap to do by myself.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Sun, Jun 5, 2016 at 11:45 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We have been given one. It is too short but it worked well as we have
> normally three children on board. It is short on the luff so do we fly it
> high to the top of the mast or lower to the deck? What is the process of
> getting it down? Tack release, let sheets go, and then let down the
> halyard? What is the normal way of doing it?
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Also ground cable to engine/transmission case can cause it. Or if yanmar the 
fuse on the engine can become corrode. Mine developed a break in the fuse 
holder and needed replacing 


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-06-06  03:44  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Douglas Mountjoy  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem 

I would suggest checking for power (12v) at the small wire on the solenoid with 
the ignition switch in the start position. This will tell you if the switch and 
wiring is ok. Use a test light if you have one. The test light will put a small 
load on the circuit, where as a volt meter will not. Another quick test is to 
short between the battery hot at solenoid and the small wire terminal and see 
if it turns over. 
Good luck

Doug Mountjoy 
Pegasus
LF 38 hull  #4
Ballard WA. 

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 5, 2016, at 8:12 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need to 
> get done.
> 
> Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was 
> running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from 
> turning the key.
> 
> 
> Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to the 
> radio when trying to turn over the engine.
> 
> I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few 
> hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start.  
> That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the 
> engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?).
> 
> That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off to clean 
> contact but no effect.
> 
> 
> I figure there are 3 possibilities
> 
> 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over
> 
> 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of noise 
> or power dip indicating that something was seized
> 
> 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what I 
> presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as well.  
> Nothing obviously disconnected
> 
> 
> I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure out 
> what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!
> 
> 
> Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd get a 
> voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it 
> suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?
> 
> I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition key - 
> maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed
> 
> Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to spin 
> the starter/solenoid directly?
> 
> 
> The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for the advice,
> 
> Mark
> 
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>  - George Santayana
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List 2016 C&C Northeast Rendezvous -- Mystic Seaport, CT -- Sept 10-12, 2016

[David via CnC-List]

Rick,

If you have a autopilot and a buddy it is easier, with a lot less traffic and 
current concerns, to take her outside around Montauk Point...

Hope to see you there!

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


> Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2016 06:50:02 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 2016 C&C Northeast Rendezvous -- Mystic Seaport,   
> CT  -- Sept 10-12, 2016
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: rickbushie...@gmail.com
> 
> My “man-cation" is during that timeframe.  I’m trying to decide if I want to 
> single hand each way from the Chesapeake.  I charted it out last night at 
> around 325 miles if I take the narrows into LIS.
> 
> Rick Bushie
> 1971 30-1
> Tolchester, MD
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!




Virus-free. www.avast.com


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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Robin

If you are referring to the Campbell sailor prop their specs differ from a more 
traditional prop.  I have a Campbell prop.  Spoke to the owner very 
knowledgable.

Mike
C&C 37

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 5, 2016, at 11:28 PM, Robin Drew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Thanks. I just bought the boat and I'm pretty annoyed but sure the problem is 
> that it's  worn and needs maintenance. I'm planning on removing it and 
> putting a simple 2 blade prop on, at least for now.
> 
> It's hard to get info about the size and pitch specs. However, I found a 
> website in BC that has a prop calculator and it gave me 15" with 9" pitch for 
> my boat (CNC 33/2), engine and transmission. Does this sound right?
> 
> Any comments?
> Robin Drew
> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
> 
>> On May 29, 2016, at 4:32 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> The obvious question in this case with a folding prop, is do all the blades 
>> open all the way?
>> Once it is in the water it is hard to tell unless you can dive on it.
>> I bought a used 2 blade prop recently that is geared so that the halves are 
>> supposed to open evenly. The pins are so worn in the prop body that the gear 
>> teeth can jump one another and it gets stuck so that one blade does not open 
>> all the way. In my case the prop needs to be re-built.
>> The short answer is that anything that causes one blade to stick will cause 
>> the problem you describe.
>> There are other possibilities, but that is the easiest to check.
>>  
>> Steve Thomas
>> C&C27 MKIII
>> Port Stanley, ON  
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Robin Drew via CnC-List
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Robin Drew
>> Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
>> Subject: Stus-List Propeller
>> 
>> I have just purchased a C&C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
>> clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
>> vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?
>> 
>> Robin Drew
>> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
>> "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Mark,

not that I suggest that this might be the case, but these taught me not to 
assume anything...

I had two experiences of “nothing happening” with the engine on this boat.

The first one was my first try after I bought it and winterised it. The first 
start in the spring, I press the start button and nothing happens. My sequence 
was: battery switch to 1, ignition switch to glow plugs (spring loaded), hold 
it for 10 s, let it go (the key in the “on” position), press starter switch. 
Nothing happens. Our local diesel mechanic (after troubleshooting for a while) 
pointed that my sequence was wrong – I need to hold the key in the “glow plugs” 
position, when the engine is starting (or the starter motor is not energised). 
Hard learned lesson 1.

Lesson 2. This spring commissioning. I leave the batteries on the boat, but I 
disconnect the cables (both plus and minus). So in the spring, I connected all 
cables that I could see correctly, checked that all lights and instruments are 
working properly. When it was time to check the engine (I usually run it on the 
hard before launching), nothing. No power to the blower, the panel is not 
energised (e.g. the fuel gauge is not showing anything). When I turn the key 
and press the starter motor, the fuel gauge hand flies to the right (more than 
full). Turns out that the negative cable to the motor (and starter) was 
disconnected and it fell behind the batteries, so there was no visible clue. 
Interestingly a friend with the exact same boat had the same problem about 2 h 
before. It was the only part that made me feel a bit better. At least, this 
lesson did not cost me much.

Simply tying to say that if it worked before, it must be some simple problem. 
The worst case scenario, trace the wiring.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 23:13
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar 
Subject: Stus-List Starting Problem


Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need 
to get done.

Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was 
running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from 
turning the key.


Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to 
the radio when trying to turn over the engine.

I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few 
hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't 
re-start.  That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken 
loose with the engine running for a long period) off a clip on the 
starter solenoid (?).

That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off to 
clean contact but no effect.


I figure there are 3 possibilities

1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over

2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of 
noise or power dip indicating that something was seized

3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to 
what I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected 
as well.  Nothing obviously disconnected


I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to 
figure out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!


Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd get 
a voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then 
it suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?

I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition 
key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed

Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to 
spin the starter/solenoid directly?


The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP


Thanks in advance for the advice,

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana


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Stus-List Traveller for 29 mk 2

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

My 29-2 has a complete Harken traveller / main sheet system. I am not sure if 
it is original or retrofitted by a PO.There is a wooden spacer under the low 
profile traveller track. Traveller controls are end of track and work well from 
the wheel when single handing. The starboard traveller end sheaves are modified 
to clear the cockpit locker. Traveller car is not windward sheeting but I do 
not miss this (previous boat had windward sheeting). I can send photos if you 
want to see them.

Bob Hickson, P. ENG.C &C 29 mk 2Flying ColoursFrenchmans Bay (Lake Ontario)Sent 
from Samsung Mobile___

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Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I made a video that walks through the starting circuit on my yanmar.  Its
pretty generic, maybe it will help.

https://youtu.be/Mp2cGDa1VOU

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 5, 2016 11:13 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need
> to get done.
>
> Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was
> running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from
> turning the key.
>
>
> Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to
> the radio when trying to turn over the engine.
>
> I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few
> hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start.
> That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the
> engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?).
>
> That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off to
> clean contact but no effect.
>
>
> I figure there are 3 possibilities
>
> 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over
>
> 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of
> noise or power dip indicating that something was seized
>
> 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what
> I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as
> well.  Nothing obviously disconnected
>
>
> I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure
> out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!
>
>
> Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd get a
> voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it
> suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?
>
> I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition
> key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed
>
> Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to
> spin the starter/solenoid directly?
>
>
> The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP
>
>
> Thanks in advance for the advice,
>
> Mark
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Robin,

I have the original prop from my 33-II, as well as a Campbell sailor for it. We 
currently have a Flex-o-fold on her we put on when we repowered. If I get a 
chance I’ll dig out the other 2 and see what they are.

Paul Fountain
Perception II
1985 C&C 33-II k/cb
Port Credit Yacht Club

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robin Drew 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 10:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robin Drew 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller

Thanks. I just bought the boat and I'm pretty annoyed but sure the problem is 
that it's  worn and needs maintenance. I'm planning on removing it and putting 
a simple 2 blade prop on, at least for now.

It's hard to get info about the size and pitch specs. However, I found a 
website in BC that has a prop calculator and it gave me 15" with 9" pitch for 
my boat (CNC 33/2), engine and transmission. Does this sound right?

Any comments?
Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060

On May 29, 2016, at 4:32 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
The obvious question in this case with a folding prop, is do all the blades 
open all the way?
Once it is in the water it is hard to tell unless you can dive on it.
I bought a used 2 blade prop recently that is geared so that the halves are 
supposed to open evenly. The pins are so worn in the prop body that the gear 
teeth can jump one another and it gets stuck so that one blade does not open 
all the way. In my case the prop needs to be re-built.
The short answer is that anything that causes one blade to stick will cause the 
problem you describe.
There are other possibilities, but that is the easiest to check.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
- Original Message -
From: Robin Drew via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robin Drew
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
Subject: Stus-List Propeller

I have just purchased a C&C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?

Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060
"The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List Propeller shaft tube leak

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

 I have a leak which appears to be coming from below the stuffing box from the 
shaft tube itself.  Has anyone ever experienced this.  Can the tube be repaired 
or does it have to be replaced.   It appears that someone mounted a zinc on the 
tube and the tube wore through there.   The engine is a Yanmar 1GM.  Jerry J&J 
C&C 27V

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Robin Drew via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Robin Drew 
Sent: Sun, Jun 5, 2016 10:29 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller



Thanks. I just bought the boat and I'm pretty annoyed but sure the problem is 
that it's  worn and needs maintenance. I'm planning on removing it and putting 
a simple 2 blade prop on, at least for now.


It's hard to get info about the size and pitch specs. However, I found a 
website in BC that has a prop calculator and it gave me 15" with 9" pitch for 
my boat (CNC 33/2), engine and transmission. Does this sound right?

Any comments?

Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060


On May 29, 2016, at 4:32 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
wrote:



The obvious question in this case with a folding prop, is do all the blades 
open all the way?
Once it is in the water it is hard to tell unless you can dive on it. 
I bought a used 2 blade prop recently that is geared so that the halves are 
supposed to open evenly. The pins are so worn in the prop body that the gear 
teeth can jump one another and it gets stuck so that one blade does not open 
all the way. In my case the prop needs to be re-built. 
The short answer is that anything that causes one blade to stick will cause the 
problem you describe. 
There are other possibilities, but that is the easiest to check. 
 
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON  
  
- Original Message - 
  
From:   Robin Drew   via CnC-List 
  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  
Cc: Robin Drew 
  
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
  
Subject: Stus-List Propeller
  


  
I have just purchased a C&C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a   
clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant   
vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?

Robin   Drew  
Mobile: +1 514 4632060
  
"The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" -   FDR

  
  

  
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___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dropping the Rudder

[Dave via CnC-List]

Graham.
If you could post photos of your rudder rebuild I'd appreciate that. I'm 
guessing it's similar to the 37 but would like to be sure.
Thanks,
Dave J
Saltaire
CC35 MK3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: Graham Collins via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Graham Collins 
Sent: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:09:24 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dropping the Rudder

Hi Chris

You say re-core it, do you intend to replace all the foam (and new 
skins), or do the cut open, scoop out saturated foam, refill?

I can shoot you some pics of my rudder interior if you want.

Where in Halifax are you?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
BBYC / Waeg - Halifax, NS

On 2016-05-25 9:57 AM, Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List wrote:
> I'm planning to drop the rudder on my 37 and re-core it with foam, and was 
> wondering what I should look for and expect when doing this operation? What 
> are the steps involved and what challenges have other listers encountered?
>
> Chris
> C&C 37 Northern Light
> Halifax
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On May 24, 2016, at 11:19 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>
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>>
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>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>>
>>
>> Today's Topics:
>>
>>1. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (Sam Wheeler)
>>2. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Kevin Driscoll)
>>3. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (randy.staff...@comcast.net)
>>4. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (Sam Wheeler)
>>5. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Jake Brodersen)
>>6. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Dave)
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 15:38:50 -0700
>> From: Sam Wheeler 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Foil Feed Funnel
>> Message-ID:
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> Ouch.
>>
>> My version of Lesson 1 was when I was in college and an older alumnus
>> invited our team to race with him on his Serendipity 43.  We went out for a
>> practice day, and as team captain and one of the only people with
>> non-dinghy race experience, I ended up as the de facto crew chief.
>>
>> We get the spinnaker up and call for a jibe.  Foredeck crew dips the pole
>> and gets it hooked up on the new guy, but it's not coming aft, so I yell to
>> the 6'8" dude on the primary winch to keep cranking.
>>
>> The ensuing explosion of carbon fiber shards taught me a valuable lesson
>> about baby stays.
>>
>> Sam
>> 35-3
>> SF
>>
>> On Mon, May 23, 2016 at 9:13 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> It's in 18 feet of murky questionable marina water that I'd prefer not to
>>> swim in, even if I could see my hand in front of my face :)
>>>
>>> Turns out I got great customer service from Head Foil.  I sent them a
>>> picture and description of the half I didn't drop overboard, and they dated
>>> it to the first years of their company - early 70s, meaning my luff support
>>> system was probably original.  They looked but couldn't find a replacement
>>> part.  So I'm getting a new Head Foil system after a 44-year service life
>>> on the previous one.  Not sure the replacement feed funnel have would have
>>> been a complete fix anyway, because some of the plastic extrusion
>>> underneath it cracked and broke off.  Without a new system I'm worried that
>>> sharp plastic edges might cut luff tapes of headsails being hoisted.  The
>>> new Head Foil system is significantly less expensive than competing systems
>>> or furlers.  I called / emailed the company on Saturday morning and they
>>> called me back within a few hours.  My new system shipped today.  I'll
>>> report back after installing and using it.
>>>
>>> There's actually more to the story.  Went out for a leisure sail with
>>> family, and the genoa foot fouled on a horn cleat during the hoist.  My
>>> daughter's boyfriend (big strong kid) kept hauling on the halyard until the
>>> feed funnel blew apart.  Both halves were still dangling by one of two
>>> screws holding them together (the other screw blew out somewhere during the
>>> hoist).  When we got back to the marina I went to take all the parts off
>>> the forestay to see if I could find replacement screws and re-assemble the
>>> whole thing, and that's when I dropped the part overboard.  But I'm not
>>> sure reassembly would have worked anyway because of the broken plastic.
>>> The lessons: (1) if a sail is not going up like you expect, something is
>>> wrong, and continuing to haul on the halyard will only 

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Dave via CnC-List]

Ryan.
Your results look great. How many hours would you guess you put into the paint 
job?
Dave J
Saltaire
CC35 MK3
Bristol, RI

- Original Message -
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Sent: Thu, 26 May 2016 15:46:02 - (UTC)
Subject: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux 
Brightside/Interlux Prekote

Hey all,

I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time
boat painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C&C 30 with Interlux
Brightside and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes
during this process.  I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my
expense, but hopefully this post will save other first-time painters some
grief.

When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.
The hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful
color, but I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush
marks, and it had been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines
and fenders.

This was the state of her hull before:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA

I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat -
crawling around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat
grime.  So when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was
excited to work outside.

I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much...
but more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from
defender.com for a total of $351.90 before shipping.

When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and
the line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.

Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got
to work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is
the key to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.

I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker
orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear,
then I moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I
then wiped down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing
liquid

Sanded:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM

I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right
off.

Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of
Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids
were all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint
and I was also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60
degrees was too cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and
mixed up the paint as best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.

Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old
tee shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one
coat of primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job
filling imperfections.

Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have
plenty of experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought,
"No biggie.  I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.

As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.
 "Oh yeah.  Boat paint."

Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home
and used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow
grease, this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.

I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.

The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this
post.  I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth
as possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer
completely away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going
to apply another coat.

I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and
rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.

The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth
finish, and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag.

Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been
confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more
complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word
"tip" has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out
there, I think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and
brush".

This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and tip/brush:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo

The helpful guys at my local West Marine told me to paint a full section of
the boat at one time - IE the whole t