Re: Stus-List Rod rigging.

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, I suggest contacting South 
Shore Yachts in Niagara-on-the-Lake.  Not only did it acquire a lot of C 
parts and information after the original company went bankrupt, it was (and 
may still be) a Navtec agent.  I bought the original C "build file" for my 
34 from South Shore, which was possible because South Shore acquired all of 
C's old records.  When I replaced the stays on that boat, South Shore made 
the replacements, including the "new" (at the time) heads and fittings for 
the mast.  Rob MacLachlan can likely answer your questions.


-Original Message- 
From: Steve via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, February 13, 2017 3:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve
Subject: Stus-List Rod rigging.

My newly acquired 1980 CNC 36 had the heads cut off of the intermediate 
shrouds. In trying to get them re-headed I discovered I'm missing 1 ball 
from under the cap. The through bolt needs replacing as well as possibly the 
caps. Question is, did Navtec go to a different option because of the 
dissimilar metals issue? Suggestions please?

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 13, 2017, at 7:56 AM, Mike Brannon via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Steve,   Make sure that you take a good look at the knees which the shroud 
and back stay chain plates attach.   These are a known weak spot on boats 
of our vintage.About 9 years ago the tabbing on one of mine started 
separating.  I was fortunate that I found it before a catastrophic 
failure.


About every 2-3 years I find that I have to snug up on some of the toe 
rail fasteners.   Generally a 1 flat turn re-seals.


Sail safe,

Mike
Virginia LEE.  93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, Va
Sent from my iPad Mini

On Feb 12, 2017, at 22:14, Steve via CnC-List  
wrote:


Regarding recurring water in the bilge: I am busy going over everything 
on my newly acquired 1980 CNC 36.  My mast is off pending repairs to the 
rigging. I have checked and double checked water tanks (2), water lines, 
and keel bolts.  No water coming from them or any of the 7 through hull 
fittings.  After using a shop vac to remove any trace of water in the 
bilge I return the next day and continue to find about 1/2 gallon of 
water in the bilge.  I am now convinced that it is coming back from the 
manual bilge hose which outputs through a Y connection on the bilge pump 
output hose.  I evacuated that tonight.  We’ll see in the morning.  If I 
find any, it will be either salt or bleach.  That should help narrow it 
down, as I have bleach in the water tanks.  The holding tank is empty. 
Good thing for the taste test!


On Feb 12, 2017, at 10:27 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Hello listers,

In December I finalized the purchase of my first keelboat, a C 35 Mk 
I, after receiving an extremely thorough and detailed list of items to 
survey from Joe Della Barba. Joe, thanks again for your help!


The previous owner of the boat was a local racing legend who ran a 
marina near Glen Island, NY. He had been giving me advice on readying 
the boat for her new life on a mooring after spending the last four 
decades in a slip adjacent to his houseboat. Unfortunately, he passed 
away last weekend.


One of the questions I had yet to broach was the accumulation of water 
in the bilge. The boat has been on the hard, shrinkwrapped, for three 
years. I've been pumping the bilge dry every two-four weeks, and it 
seems to be about 2-4 gallons of water as measured by a big plastic 
bucket. I'm not sure where the water is coming from. Apart from the 
bilge, water is pooling in the forward-most storage compartment under 
the port settee. My first instinct is to have a friend on deck hold the 
screws on the toerails and stanchion bases while I slightly tighten the 
nuts below deck and see if the water ingress stops. Does that make 
sense? Is there a different, better course of action I should take at 
this time? Does anyone know offhand what size socket I'll need?


Thanks in advance,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY
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___

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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Re: Stus-List Rod rigging.

[David Folsom via CnC-List]

on my 1981 36' we redid most of the rod rigging. My rigger (Butler Marine
in San Diego) recommended that the old tangs be replaced with the K200
stemball tangs. Apparently these are a better design.

Would be happy to share more details, I think I posted some of these
details a few months ago.

Dave
1981 C 36
Rebel Maid
San Diego


On Mon, Feb 13, 2017 at 2:16 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> What do you mean by "did Navtec go to a different option because of the
> dissimilar metals issue?"  Different option than what?
>
> The ball under the Navtang cap that you're referring to is actually a
> "stemball washer". I assume you're referring to the cup-like washer that
> seats below the stemball, inside the Navtang cap.
> Sometimes also called a stemball seat. I assume you're not talking about
> the stemball itself, because if your rods were cut, then the stemball isn't
> relevant or reusable.
> If you just need a stemball washer, that's pretty easy - anyone who
> reheads the rod will be able get one. You'll need to give them the Navtang
> cups.
>
> The through bolt was aluminum on older Navtangs but they switched to SS on
> newer models (sometimes around '82/83 I believe, so you probably have
> aluminum). The dissimiliar metal there isn't the big issue (except when
> getting the tang apart), the issue is that aluminum corrodes quicker and
> can get eaten up by wire halyards that they had back in the day.
>
> You need to talk to a rigger who does Navtec or BSI orders. My BSI order
> is finally arriving this week.
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C Landfall 38
>
> On Mon, Feb 13, 2017 at 1:02 PM,  wrote:
>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Steve 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 15:50:20 -0500
>> Subject: Stus-List Rod rigging.
>> My newly acquired 1980 CNC 36 had the heads cut off of the intermediate
>> shrouds. In trying to get them re-headed I discovered I'm missing 1 ball
>> from under the cap. The through bolt needs replacing as well as possibly
>> the caps. Question is, did Navtec go to a different option because of the
>> dissimilar metals issue? Suggestions please?
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step (LF38 replacement)

[ahycrace--- via CnC-List]

Humm could be, theroretically, however mine has no wear at all after 41 years 
and we all have seen what others can look like.

Gary K.  "Liberty"
 Neil Schiller via CnC-List  wrote: 
> Galvanic corrosion?
> 
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
> White Lake, Michigan
> 
> On 2/13/2017 5:39 PM, ahycrace via CnC-List wrote:
> > The maststep on liberty is cast stainless heavy yes but very strong 
> > why would any of them be made of anything else?  1976 mk ll
> >
> >
> >
> > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> >
> >  Original message 
> > From: Dreuge via CnC-List 
> > Date: 2/13/17 11:01 AM (GMT-05:00)
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: Dreuge 
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step (LF38 replacement)
> >
> >
> > Broken mast steps are a know problem for Landfall 38s.  When I 
> > unstepped my mast, the old step lifted out in two halves.
> >
> > Wally Bryant describes having a new one fabricated and welded 
> > together.   I spoke to a welder about having a similar one fabricated, 
> > and was advised to have one CNC milled from a solid block as it was a 
> > "set it and forget it" operation whereas welding was going to be labor 
> > intensive.  I did some of the leg work myself, and in the end spent 
> > about $300 for a new fabricated step.   I have a write up online which 
> > includes a CAD drawing that was used to create the CNC step file.
> >
> >
> > http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/MastStep
> >
> > -
> > Paul E.
> > 1981 C 38 Landfall
> > S/V Johanna Rose
> > Carrabelle, FL
> >
> > http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Wind sensor for n2k

[svpegasus38]

I would go with the Raymarine i60. Bery happy with mine. Doug 
MountjoyPegasusLF38
T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.



-- Original message--From: Dave via CnC-List Date: Mon, Feb 13, 2017 
10:57To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Dave;Subject:Stus-List Wind sensor for n2k
Considering the addition of a wind instrument before launch, and am looking for 
any thoughts from those who've done it.  I have a raymarine ev100 wheelpilot, 
i70 display, iPad as chartplotter.  Am leaning toward an ultrasonic, n2k 
sensor.   Thoughts/wisdom/guidance? Thanks!dave.  33-2Sent from my 
iPhone___This list is supported by 
the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to 
offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayAll 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step (LF38 replacement)

[Neil Schiller via CnC-List]

Galvanic corrosion?

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
White Lake, Michigan

On 2/13/2017 5:39 PM, ahycrace via CnC-List wrote:
The maststep on liberty is cast stainless heavy yes but very strong 
why would any of them be made of anything else?  1976 mk ll




Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 Original message 
From: Dreuge via CnC-List 
Date: 2/13/17 11:01 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step (LF38 replacement)


Broken mast steps are a know problem for Landfall 38s.  When I 
unstepped my mast, the old step lifted out in two halves.


Wally Bryant describes having a new one fabricated and welded 
together.   I spoke to a welder about having a similar one fabricated, 
and was advised to have one CNC milled from a solid block as it was a 
"set it and forget it" operation whereas welding was going to be labor 
intensive.  I did some of the leg work myself, and in the end spent 
about $300 for a new fabricated step.   I have a write up online which 
includes a CAD drawing that was used to create the CNC step file.



http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/MastStep

-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step (LF38 replacement)

[ahycrace via CnC-List]

The maststep on liberty is cast stainless heavy yes but very strong why would 
any of them be made of anything else?  1976 mk ll


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Dreuge via CnC-List 
 Date: 2/13/17  11:01 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dreuge  Subject: Re: Stus-List 
Deteriorated mast step (LF38 replacement) 

Broken mast steps are a know problem for Landfall 38s.  When I unstepped my 
mast, the old step lifted out in two halves.
Wally Bryant describes having a new one fabricated and welded together.   I 
spoke to a welder about having a similar one fabricated, and was advised to 
have one CNC milled from a solid block as it was a "set it and forget it" 
operation whereas welding was going to be labor intensive.  I did some of the 
leg work myself, and in the end spent about $300 for a new fabricated step.   I 
have a write up online which includes a CAD drawing that was used to create the 
CNC step file.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/MastStep

-
Paul E.1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rod rigging.

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

What do you mean by "did Navtec go to a different option because of the
dissimilar metals issue?"  Different option than what?

The ball under the Navtang cap that you're referring to is actually a
"stemball washer". I assume you're referring to the cup-like washer that
seats below the stemball, inside the Navtang cap.
Sometimes also called a stemball seat. I assume you're not talking about
the stemball itself, because if your rods were cut, then the stemball isn't
relevant or reusable.
If you just need a stemball washer, that's pretty easy - anyone who reheads
the rod will be able get one. You'll need to give them the Navtang cups.

The through bolt was aluminum on older Navtangs but they switched to SS on
newer models (sometimes around '82/83 I believe, so you probably have
aluminum). The dissimiliar metal there isn't the big issue (except when
getting the tang apart), the issue is that aluminum corrodes quicker and
can get eaten up by wire halyards that they had back in the day.

You need to talk to a rigger who does Navtec or BSI orders. My BSI order is
finally arriving this week.

-Patrick
1984 C Landfall 38

On Mon, Feb 13, 2017 at 1:02 PM,  wrote:

> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Steve 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 15:50:20 -0500
> Subject: Stus-List Rod rigging.
> My newly acquired 1980 CNC 36 had the heads cut off of the intermediate
> shrouds. In trying to get them re-headed I discovered I'm missing 1 ball
> from under the cap. The through bolt needs replacing as well as possibly
> the caps. Question is, did Navtec go to a different option because of the
> dissimilar metals issue? Suggestions please?
> Sent from my iPhone
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List c landfall 48 hull configuration?

[Christopher Chase-Dunn via CnC-List]

way cool. thanks paul.

On Mon, Feb 13, 2017 at 12:47 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Try this link.  Scroll down to the bottom for the pictures.
>
> It looks like a partial skeg.
>
>
>
> http://360cruisers.com/2016/09/01/1981-cc-landfall-48-happy-valley/
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Taillieu
>
> Shearwater Yacht Club
>
> Halifax, NS.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *Christopher
> Chase-Dunn via CnC-List
> *Sent:* February-13-17 16:19
> *To:* Dreuge
> *Cc:* Christopher Chase-Dunn; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List c landfall 48 hull configuration?
>
>
>
> dear paul,
>
> thanks. i cant get into images.boats.com.
>
> r  u sure that one is for the lff48?
>
> if so looks like a skeg-hung rudder but cant tell if it is a full or
> partial skeg.
>
> chriscd
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
chris chase-dunn   邓宇歌
institute for research on world-systems
CHASS Interdisciplinary Bldg INTS 4111
university of california-riverside
riverside, ca 92521 USA
consider using my textbook in your class:
_Social Change: Globalization from the Stone Age to the Present_
https://www.routledge.com/products/9781612053288

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List c landfall 48 hull configuration?

[Christopher Chase-Dunn via CnC-List]

thanks rick

On Mon, Feb 13, 2017 at 12:47 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Try this link.  Scroll down to the bottom for the pictures.
>
> It looks like a partial skeg.
>
>
>
> http://360cruisers.com/2016/09/01/1981-cc-landfall-48-happy-valley/
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Taillieu
>
> Shearwater Yacht Club
>
> Halifax, NS.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *Christopher
> Chase-Dunn via CnC-List
> *Sent:* February-13-17 16:19
> *To:* Dreuge
> *Cc:* Christopher Chase-Dunn; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List c landfall 48 hull configuration?
>
>
>
> dear paul,
>
> thanks. i cant get into images.boats.com.
>
> r  u sure that one is for the lff48?
>
> if so looks like a skeg-hung rudder but cant tell if it is a full or
> partial skeg.
>
> chriscd
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
chris chase-dunn   邓宇歌
institute for research on world-systems
CHASS Interdisciplinary Bldg INTS 4111
university of california-riverside
riverside, ca 92521 USA
consider using my textbook in your class:
_Social Change: Globalization from the Stone Age to the Present_
https://www.routledge.com/products/9781612053288

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Rod rigging.

[Steve via CnC-List]

My newly acquired 1980 CNC 36 had the heads cut off of the intermediate 
shrouds. In trying to get them re-headed I discovered I'm missing 1 ball from 
under the cap. The through bolt needs replacing as well as possibly the caps. 
Question is, did Navtec go to a different option because of the dissimilar 
metals issue? Suggestions please?
Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 13, 2017, at 7:56 AM, Mike Brannon via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Steve,   Make sure that you take a good look at the knees which the shroud 
> and back stay chain plates attach.   These are a known weak spot on boats of 
> our vintage.About 9 years ago the tabbing on one of mine started 
> separating.  I was fortunate that I found it before a catastrophic failure.   
>  
> 
> About every 2-3 years I find that I have to snug up on some of the toe rail 
> fasteners.   Generally a 1 flat turn re-seals. 
> 
> Sail safe, 
> 
> Mike
> Virginia LEE.  93295
> 1978 C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, Va
> Sent from my iPad Mini
> 
>> On Feb 12, 2017, at 22:14, Steve via CnC-List  wrote:
>> 
>> Regarding recurring water in the bilge: I am busy going over everything on 
>> my newly acquired 1980 CNC 36.  My mast is off pending repairs to the 
>> rigging. I have checked and double checked water tanks (2), water lines, and 
>> keel bolts.  No water coming from them or any of the 7 through hull 
>> fittings.  After using a shop vac to remove any trace of water in the bilge 
>> I return the next day and continue to find about 1/2 gallon of water in the 
>> bilge.  I am now convinced that it is coming back from the manual bilge hose 
>> which outputs through a Y connection on the bilge pump output hose.  I 
>> evacuated that tonight.  We’ll see in the morning.  If I find any, it will 
>> be either salt or bleach.  That should help narrow it down, as I have bleach 
>> in the water tanks.  The holding tank is empty. Good thing for the taste 
>> test!
>> 
>>> On Feb 12, 2017, at 10:27 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello listers,
>>> 
>>> In December I finalized the purchase of my first keelboat, a C 35 Mk I, 
>>> after receiving an extremely thorough and detailed list of items to survey 
>>> from Joe Della Barba. Joe, thanks again for your help!
>>> 
>>> The previous owner of the boat was a local racing legend who ran a marina 
>>> near Glen Island, NY. He had been giving me advice on readying the boat for 
>>> her new life on a mooring after spending the last four decades in a slip 
>>> adjacent to his houseboat. Unfortunately, he passed away last weekend.
>>> 
>>> One of the questions I had yet to broach was the accumulation of water in 
>>> the bilge. The boat has been on the hard, shrinkwrapped, for three years. 
>>> I've been pumping the bilge dry every two-four weeks, and it seems to be 
>>> about 2-4 gallons of water as measured by a big plastic bucket. I'm not 
>>> sure where the water is coming from. Apart from the bilge, water is pooling 
>>> in the forward-most storage compartment under the port settee. My first 
>>> instinct is to have a friend on deck hold the screws on the toerails and 
>>> stanchion bases while I slightly tighten the nuts below deck and see if the 
>>> water ingress stops. Does that make sense? Is there a different, better 
>>> course of action I should take at this time? Does anyone know offhand what 
>>> size socket I'll need?
>>> 
>>> Thanks in advance,
>>> Tom
>>> 
>>> ---
>>> Snow Goose
>>> C 35 Mk I 
>>> City Island, NY
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Wind sensor for n2k

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Dave,

I was happy with my TackTick on my 35.  I had the non-solar display because
it was under a bimini.

Now you can integrate that with the i70 ( for a price)

Joel

On Mon, Feb 13, 2017 at 1:56 PM, Dave via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Considering the addition of a wind instrument before launch, and am
> looking for any thoughts from those who've done it.
>  I have a raymarine ev100 wheelpilot, i70 display, iPad as chartplotter.
> Am leaning toward an ultrasonic, n2k sensor.
> Thoughts/wisdom/guidance?
> Thanks!dave.  33-2
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List c landfall 48 hull configuration?

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Try this link.  Scroll down to the bottom for the pictures.

It looks like a partial skeg.

 

http://360cruisers.com/2016/09/01/1981-cc-landfall-48-happy-valley/

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Christopher 
Chase-Dunn via CnC-List
Sent: February-13-17 16:19
To: Dreuge
Cc: Christopher Chase-Dunn; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List c landfall 48 hull configuration?

 

dear paul,

thanks. i cant get into images.boats.com.

r  u sure that one is for the lff48?

if so looks like a skeg-hung rudder but cant tell if it is a full or partial 
skeg.  

chriscd

 

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Stus-List Wind sensor for n2k

[Dave via CnC-List]

Considering the addition of a wind instrument before launch, and am looking for 
any thoughts from those who've done it. 
 I have a raymarine ev100 wheelpilot, i70 display, iPad as chartplotter.  Am 
leaning toward an ultrasonic, n2k sensor.   
Thoughts/wisdom/guidance? 
Thanks!dave.  33-2



Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List c landfall 48 hull configuration?

[Christopher Chase-Dunn via CnC-List]

i am interested in a c landfall 48 built in 1981 but cannot find any
information about the hull configuration.
does it have a spade rudder or a skeg-hung rudder and if skeg is it a
partial or full skeg?
about how long is the fin keel?
chriscd

-- 
chris chase-dunn   邓宇歌
institute for research on world-systems
CHASS Interdisciplinary Bldg INTS 4111
university of california-riverside
riverside, ca 92521 USA
consider using my textbook in your class:
_Social Change: Globalization from the Stone Age to the Present_
https://www.routledge.com/products/9781612053288

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Re: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step (LF38 replacement)

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Broken mast steps are a know problem for Landfall 38s.  When I unstepped my 
mast, the old step lifted out in two halves.

Wally Bryant describes having a new one fabricated and welded together.   I 
spoke to a welder about having a similar one fabricated, and was advised to 
have one CNC milled from a solid block as it was a "set it and forget it" 
operation whereas welding was going to be labor intensive.  I did some of the 
leg work myself, and in the end spent about $300 for a new fabricated step.   I 
have a write up online which includes a CAD drawing that was used to create the 
CNC step file.


http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/MastStep

-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

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Re: Stus-List Anchor chain

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I recall reading about chain splicing/welding by  cutting an “X” pattern in the 
sides of the two joining links allowing the links to fit together.  Then the 
“X” openings of links are tig  or mig welded closed (I even think they use 
stainless tig wire).   The result is claimed to a smooth connecting stronger 
than using a splice/repair link.   My guess is that the splice is weaker than 
the original, but likely inline with how some have a larger link added to a 
chain to facilitate anchor shackling.


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Feb 12, 2017, at 9:32 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 09:23:22 -0800
> From: Fred Hazzard >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Anchor chain
> Message-ID:
>    >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I have another 50 feet of chain I would like to add to my existing chain
> for my ground tackle.  What is the feeling of the listers about using a
> link/  If I use a shackle it would bind in my anchor windless.
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
>   
> >

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Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

David — you beat me to it!  You’re correct, typical wiring on boats like ours 
had a heavy-gauge cable from the alternator out put to the starter solenoid, 
which just served as a convenient connection terminal to get the alternator 
current back to the battery, which also had a heavy-gauge wire to the starter 
solenoid.

When I’ve redone the electrical on both my boats, I replaced this connection 
with a heavy lead directly to the positive bus bar for the house bank; if you 
put in an external alternator regulator like the Balmar, I’d recommend you do 
the same.  And at the risk of all the rude comments, make sure it’s properly 
fused at the house bank…   :^)

— Fred

Frederick G Street
13925 277th Ave NW
Zimmerman MN   55398

f...@postaudio.net
612.839.6565 cell

> On Feb 13, 2017, at 8:48 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  Hi Russ-   I found a diagram that Rich posted a while ago buried in my files 
> and it is helping me to sort this out.   I was thinking this jumper had to do 
> with starting, but the power for the starter is coming from the battery so 
> that made no sense.  So I think that this jumper is about efficient charging 
> and you are just using the terminal on the starter as a junction to get power 
> from the alternator to the battery more directly.  If that is right, then if 
> I put in a Balmar charge controller, then I presume this problem will go away 
> and there is no need for the jumper?  Dave
> 
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

 Hi Russ-   I found a diagram that Rich posted a while ago buried in my files 
and it is helping me to sort this out.   I was thinking this jumper had to do 
with starting, but the power for the starter is coming from the battery so that 
made no sense.  So I think that this jumper is about efficient charging and you 
are just using the terminal on the starter as a junction to get power from the 
alternator to the battery more directly.  If that is right, then if I put in a 
Balmar charge controller, then I presume this problem will go away and there is 
no need for the jumper?  Dave


Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Stus-List Sales

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

All,

Today West has 40% off all rope.

April 8 Bacon Sails is having a yard sale to clean out the warehouse.  I
don't know how long some of the stuff has been there, but I bought one
piece that had been there for 14 years.

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

Steve,   Make sure that you take a good look at the knees which the shroud and 
back stay chain plates attach.   These are a known weak spot on boats of our 
vintage.About 9 years ago the tabbing on one of mine started separating.  I 
was fortunate that I found it before a catastrophic failure.

About every 2-3 years I find that I have to snug up on some of the toe rail 
fasteners.   Generally a 1 flat turn re-seals. 

Sail safe, 

Mike
Virginia LEE.  93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, Va
Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Feb 12, 2017, at 22:14, Steve via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Regarding recurring water in the bilge: I am busy going over everything on my 
> newly acquired 1980 CNC 36.  My mast is off pending repairs to the rigging. I 
> have checked and double checked water tanks (2), water lines, and keel bolts. 
>  No water coming from them or any of the 7 through hull fittings.  After 
> using a shop vac to remove any trace of water in the bilge I return the next 
> day and continue to find about 1/2 gallon of water in the bilge.  I am now 
> convinced that it is coming back from the manual bilge hose which outputs 
> through a Y connection on the bilge pump output hose.  I evacuated that 
> tonight.  We’ll see in the morning.  If I find any, it will be either salt or 
> bleach.  That should help narrow it down, as I have bleach in the water 
> tanks.  The holding tank is empty. Good thing for the taste test!
> 
>> On Feb 12, 2017, at 10:27 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello listers,
>> 
>> In December I finalized the purchase of my first keelboat, a C 35 Mk I, 
>> after receiving an extremely thorough and detailed list of items to survey 
>> from Joe Della Barba. Joe, thanks again for your help!
>> 
>> The previous owner of the boat was a local racing legend who ran a marina 
>> near Glen Island, NY. He had been giving me advice on readying the boat for 
>> her new life on a mooring after spending the last four decades in a slip 
>> adjacent to his houseboat. Unfortunately, he passed away last weekend.
>> 
>> One of the questions I had yet to broach was the accumulation of water in 
>> the bilge. The boat has been on the hard, shrinkwrapped, for three years. 
>> I've been pumping the bilge dry every two-four weeks, and it seems to be 
>> about 2-4 gallons of water as measured by a big plastic bucket. I'm not sure 
>> where the water is coming from. Apart from the bilge, water is pooling in 
>> the forward-most storage compartment under the port settee. My first 
>> instinct is to have a friend on deck hold the screws on the toerails and 
>> stanchion bases while I slightly tighten the nuts below deck and see if the 
>> water ingress stops. Does that make sense? Is there a different, better 
>> course of action I should take at this time? Does anyone know offhand what 
>> size socket I'll need?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Tom
>> 
>> ---
>> Snow Goose
>> C 35 Mk I 
>> City Island, NY
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>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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> 
> 
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> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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