Re: Stus-List Port replacement

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Yes, as they say you get one shot with VHB tape in putting the ports in place.  
But this is super easy (and probably better) to do by yourself.  

Like any thing else, the trick is preparation.  Before removing the outer film 
on the VHB,  align the port where you want it.  Then take some wide masking 
tape and tape the port in place with two long strips.  Run the tape vertically 
from the middle of the port up into the cabin top, but have the strips located 
along the ports at about 1/3 from each end.   The tape acts like top hinges. 
Take the time to tweak the final placement, and when ready, swing the port up, 
remove film from tape, slowly swing it down and press. Works like a charm.  I 
did all 4 of my fixed ports this way.

Here is my write up on installing my new fixed ports:   
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Re: Stus-List Sails for sale

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Throwing this back out there in case anyone missed it.

The prices are negotiable. I listed the price that Bacon's would sell it
for. They have a 50% fee so I would have only gotten half of that.

Thanks

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD

On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 8:12 PM Kevin Paxton  wrote:

> If anyone was interested in seeing pictures of the sails I listed the
> other day.
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByfhZSW8NL8BLXZfcjhMYXZodms
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 27, 2017, 9:54 PM Kevin Paxton  wrote:
>
> Thanks Chuck.
>
> If anyone is interested I am trying to get rid of 2 of the headsails of
> the 5 that I got with the purchase of our '81 34. I recently took them all
> to Bacons Sails in annapolis to help me sort out what I should keep and
> what I should consign or trash. These are the 2 that they said they could
> try to consign if I chose to do so.
>
> The first is a Mylar Racing #1 (~150% for an I of 14'). Very good
> condition. There is a little bit of moisture starting in some of the
> stitching and Bacons suggested that I try to get it cleaned and sealed if I
> were to keep it. I really liked this sail but it's a bit too large for the
> roller furling I have on board. I don't want to have to hank on a sail this
> large every time we go out either.
> Measurements: 43' 8" x 42' x 22' 4"
> 3/16" luff tape
> Bacons said they would probably consign it at ~950-1000.
>
> I also have a lightweight Genoa (~140% for an I of 14') that has writings
> on it suggesting it was new in '79. Bacons said it was approximately 4oz
> Dacron.
> Measurements: 43' 11"x 40' 4" x 22'
> 3/16" luff tape.
> No suncover.
> some stains, but still in decent shape.
> Bacons would consign for ~400-600.
>
> Like mentioned above, both have a 3/16" luff tape so they will work with a
> roller furling foil. However, they were too long to actually be used with
> mine, which is why I am parting ways with them.
>
> The previous owner definitely raced the boat before he got health issues.
> I could not tell you usage stats for either since I haven't really used
> them extensively. I did use the Mylar one a few times and I would keep it
> if I could, but I'd rather something that fits better that I can leave on
> all the time.
>
> Price wise, I'm up for offers. I did mention what Bacons would probably
> sell it for as a starting range. I don't mind passing on a deal, but please
> keep in mind, I'm also trying to offset the costs of a semi-new/new sail
> myself.
>
> Thanks everyone for your help! I'll definitely be looking to some of the
> donation options you all mentioned for the other ones.
>
> Kevin
>
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
>
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 27, 2017 at 4:00 PM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Kevin,
>
> To optimize your return, you may want to list what you have right here on
> the C&C email list.  Put together a list of what size, (luff, leech, foot),
> material and weight of the sailcloth, general condition, and any work that
> would be needed for the sail to be usable.  Also let folks know if the
> sails were designed to work with roller furling.   Perhaps another owner of
> a 34 (or 35 Mk 1) is lurking in background waiting for a good deal on one
> of your headsails. and weighing against what you may gain from selling it
> through Bacon’s (still not a bad option, certainly to someone not wanting
> to haggle or hassle with the shipping of a sail to heaven knows where..)
> price it accordingly to make it a “good deal” for all parties concerned.
>
>
>
> I just checked rig dimensions but it looks as if your “I” dimension is
> about 2’ too long for my boat…
>
> Cheers,
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 Landfall 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Kevin
> Paxton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, March 27, 2017 2:46 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Kevin Paxton kpax...@paxdesigns.com,
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Options for getting rid of sails
>
>
>
> Thanks for the suggestions guys. The wife likes the idea of a new bag.
>
>
>
> Anyone fairly successful selling decent quality sails? Or is Consigning a
> better option?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kevin
>
> On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 8:34 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Re-sail in Annapolis will give you a duffel bag.
>
>
>
> Joel
>
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 7:02 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> www.seabags.com
>
> If your sails are large enough they will make you a tote bag for free.  We
> had a great experience with them
>
>
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
> Buscaglia via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2017 12:52 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia
> Su

Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

 (I really wish they had oriented the oil filter up and down instead of laying 
it on its side.) 

I second that thought.  Whomever designed that placement never changed the oil 
filter on one of these engines!  Dave

>  
> Rick Brass
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
> Knecht via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 9:07 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Cc: David Knecht 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement
>  
> Hi Rick- There are three filters and I was planning on changing all of them 
> since I have no idea how old they are (>3 years). 
>  The Racor is a 30µm filter.  It sounds like this one needs to be bled, so I 
> am guessing there is a bleed screw on top, so I would fill the bowl, loosen 
> the screw and then turn on the pump switch until fuel comes out the screw.  
> The second is a spin on filter on the engine.  Do you just swap it or fill it 
> with diesel first? 
> The third is the “trash filter” which the manual just calls a fuel filter and 
> looks like just a mesh basket.  Presumably you would just swap new for old.  
> Not sure I am going to bother with that since I suspect it is going to be 
> challenging to get to with limited access to that side of the engine.  
>  
> Thanks- Dave
>  
>> On Mar 30, 2017, at 7:17 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List > > wrote:
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>> ] On Behalf Of David Knecht via 
>> CnC-List
>> 

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Port replacement

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

My "trick" was to attach a couple of small wooden blocks to the getcoat
below the window location and another at the end of the window with regular
double sided tape, to locate the window.  Then I applied the VHB tape to
the cabin top.  I aligned the window against the blocks and pushed it into
place.  Then I remove the blocks.  Worked perfectly.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 7:21 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Yes, as they say you get one shot with VHB tape in putting the ports in
> place.  But this is super easy (and probably better) to do by yourself.
>
> Like any thing else, the trick is preparation.  Before removing the outer
> film on the VHB,  align the port where you want it.  Then take some wide
> masking tape and tape the port in place with two long strips.  Run the tape
> vertically from the middle of the port up into the cabin top, but have the
> strips located along the ports at about 1/3 from each end.   The tape acts
> like top hinges. Take the time to tweak the final placement, and when
> ready, swing the port up, remove film from tape, slowly swing it down and
> press. Works like a charm.  I did all 4 of my fixed ports this way.
>
> Here is my write up on installing my new fixed ports:
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List OpenPlotter

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Josh,

Thanks!  That's a lot of info to digest!

Joel

On Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at 8:43 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joel,
>
> SignalK is barely compatible with anything. Nobody has really developed
> any end of line applications or hardware.  It is really most useful for IoT
> situations.  What OpenPlotter does is pull together a bunch of off the
> shelf open-source linux apps and dresses them up in a python script gui
> interface.
>
> One of the most powerful apps is kplex.  It takes input signals, processes
> the signals according to your rules and then multiplexes them to various
> outputs as a stream of applicable data.  I don't know if it takes SignalK
> inputs.
>
> SignalK simply takes that multiplexed signal stream, processes the
> sentences into json web script, and serves them back out on a specific
> tcp/ip port (usually localhoat:3000).  The strength of SignalK is that it
> is open source and natively tcp/ip compatible.  If you wanted to serve
> refrigerator temperature out as part of the available ships info then you
> could write a simple Json script to name, calibrate, format and serve the
> signal out on the network.  To do that with NMEA 0183 or 2k the industry
> would have to develop and release additional sentences for the nmea
> protocol.  0183 is at least a public standard and the sentences are made
> public for device development.  2k is actually closed and the only reason
> the public knows the sentences is because users have backwards engineered
> (hacked) the signal stream.  If you just want to see standard info
> wirelessly on remote devices then kplex or a wifi to nmea multiplexer is
> the way to go.  Your end of line device/app is unlikely to be able to
> interpret SignalK anyway.  For example OpenCPN.  OpenPlotter is generating
> the SignalK on port 3000.  It is up to the app or hardware as to whether or
> not to receive it.  I'm not sure if kplex will take input from SignalK but
> I don't think so.
>
> Your IKommunicate IS a wifi-nmea multiplexer.  The signal that it is
> likely serving out on tcp/ip port 10110 (xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx:10110) is a
> standard tty nmea signal.  And OpenCPN can take it as an input.  It is also
> serving SignalK on port 3000.  I believe the IKommunicate IS a wifi router
> with a single cat5e port.  If you absolutely need to serve other hardwired
> devices then connect the cat5e to the lan ports of a router and set the
> IKommunicate to DHCP and client mode.  In the router set the IKommunicate's
> ip address as static dhcp and assign a hostname to it.  When you go to your
> web browser or when you are entering the ip:port in opencpn you will be
> able to use the hostname which you set or the ip and probably port 10110
> (hostname:10110 or xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx:10110).  I like host names since they
> are easy to remember and often can be shorter but some MFDs may force ip
> addresses.  Either way it will work.
>
> The last I checked the PI is available on the OpenPlotter website as a
> pre-configured package.  Even if it isn't, the setup and acquisition of the
> necessary hardware/software is not terribly hard.  And costs less than
> $200 total.
>
> My pi hw/sw has been further modified to include the:
> *UPSpico - onboard power management UPS hardware including: fan, Real time
> clock, file safe shutdown, and 7-32vdc input.
> *NoVNC software - allows for clientless remote desktop access via a remote
> web browser
> *Fan control scripts - linked to overclock and overvoltage settings to
> improve performance but maintain reliability
> *Apache Web service and webpage - makes attaching to the OpenPlotter and
> viewing data easy.  No need to remember ip addresses, urls, or port numbers
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Mar 30, 2017 4:28 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Josh,
>
> OpenCPN is not Signal K compatible despite what is on the OpenPlotter
> website.  Maybe in release 5.something.
>
> Can you buy the Pi preloaded or do you have to assemble it yourself?
>
> I am hoping to get my Signal K to output to a router, but I'm hoping to do
> 20 projects first.  I'm several software releases behind on the Signal K
> box.
>
> Joel
>
> On Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at 12:37 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Its definitely not an off the shelf setup which I have.  It took a
>> considerable amount of learning on my part but if anybody has any questions
>> just let me know.
>>
>> Josh
>>
>> On Mar 30, 2017 11:46 AM, "E Morgan via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> REALLY slick, Josh! I've been playing with OpenCPN on my Pi3 and this
>>> clarified some questions I had. Planning on using a similar setup as a
>>> backup on my Pearson, but with NMEA2K and Signal K interfacing. In other
>>> words, something to play with while at anchor. lol
>>>
>>> Thanks for the vids!
>>>
>>> Evan
>>> Wind Affair, C&C 26 Encounter (for sale in Indianapolis)
>>> Revery, Pea

Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I hated how much fuel needed to be vented off my racor 200FG and it still
never seemed to be completely vented.  The original vent was just a knurled
knob on the outlet sife fitting.  It wasn't even at the highest point of
the filter housing and didn't allow catching the vented fuel.  I started
thinking about how to maybe get a higher vent point.  First I drilled and
tapped a hole in the top of the housing and put a typical brake bleed type
of fitting.  It worked but necessitated using small tubing to direct the
vented fuel into a bottle.  It wasn't until I performed this mod that I
realized just how much fuel needed to be vented in order to flush all the
air out of the filter.  I was usually looking at about 1 gallon of fuel
just to get all the air out.

I started thinking about how to direct that vented fuel back to the tank.
I was going to run a return fuel line when it occurred to me that the
engine already has a return fuel line from the injectors.  I changed the
bleeder valve to a t-handle valve.  Then I inserted a tee fitting and
t-handled valve in the return fuel hose.  Then I connected the 2 t-handled
valves with some clear tubing.

The 2 t-handled valves isolate the vent tubing during normal operation and
maintain the integrity of the original components.  When venting, both
t-handled valves are openwd to create a flow path back to the tank.  You
can watch the air bubbles in the clear tubing disapate as the vent
continues.

See my video at about 2:10 minutes.
https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ?t=2m12s

These engines take a 2 micron engine filter and I run a 2 micron racor. The
racor is now easier to change and bleed so I prefer it to clog first.  I
also show a vacuum gage which I installed on my racor in the video.  A new
racor filter has shown to have very low vacuum so whenever it starts to
creep up I change it...hasn't happened yet.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mar 30, 2017 7:18 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Depends on which filter you’re talking about.
>
>
>
> The Kabuto based Universal diesels I’ve had experience with (ditto the
> Betas) are self-bleeding. So if you’re changing the 10 micron filter on the
> engine, you just need to turn on the switch to activate the lift pump, and
> crank the engine. It might take a few extra seconds of cranking and a bit
> of throttle, but it will start.
>
>
>
> If, OTOH, you are talking about a Racor primary filter that is between the
> tank and the lift pump, you do have to bleed that one. But the Racor has so
> much filter area compared to the fuel flow in a small diesel that – unless
> you get into a batch of bad fuel – it doesn’t need changing very often. I
> think I’m on the third Racor in 14 years of owning my 38.
>
>
>
> As far as the 70-80 micron trash filter that is before the lift pump, if
> you have a Racor primary filter there is no real point in replacing this
> little filter.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> Knecht via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 30, 2017 8:29 AM
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list 
> *Cc:* David Knecht 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Fuel filter replacement
>
>
>
> I hate to admit this, but I am going to replace the fuel filters on my
> Universal M4-30 this spring, and I have not done it before on this engine.
> The manual says it has a continuous bleed system.  What it doesn’t say is
> what that means.  Does it mean I can just replace the filters, turn on the
> fuel pump and it will bleed itself so I don’t have to open any bleed
> screws?  If so, I want to buy a bottle of rum for whomever designed the
> system.  I am thinking back to the wrestling matches I had with my previous
> Yanmar after changing filters.  Thanks- Dave
>
>
>
> Aries
>
> 1990 C&C 34+
>
> New London, CT
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Bad Race Start Last Night

[RANDY via CnC-List]

https://news.google.com/search?q=redondo+beach+sailboat+crash 

Looks like a Capri 18. 

Done right: 
1. All crew wearing PFDs. 
2. Capsized close to beach, easing rescue. 

Mistakes? 
1. Only had the jib up? Hard to head up under jib alone. 
2. No auxiliary power? 

Cheers, 
Randy 
(from SoCal, where it is windy this weekend) 
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Re: Stus-List Bad Race Start Last Night

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Here's a nice video of it.

https://youtu.be/Isufp-6fudo

They looked a bit casual right before the wave.

Dennis C.

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 12:55 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
wrote:

> https://news.google.com/search?q=redondo+beach+sailboat+crash
>
> Looks like a Capri 18.
>
> Done right:
> 1. All crew wearing PFDs.
> 2. Capsized close to beach, easing rescue.
>
> Mistakes?
> 1. Only had the jib up?  Hard to head up under jib alone.
> 2. No auxiliary power?
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
> (from SoCal, where it is windy this weekend)
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Bad Race Start Last Night

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Watching the "full version" first minute or two, looks like the main's luff was 
separated from the mast, and the crew was busy gathering up the main and trying 
to re-feed its luff. He might have been able to run downwind on starboard tack 
under jib alone (don't know where that would have led), but then he gybed to 
port and couldn't make enough way to avoid the pier or not get tripped. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
To: "CnClist"  
Cc: "Dennis"  
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 12:44:21 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bad Race Start Last Night 

Here's a nice video of it. 

https://youtu.be/Isufp-6fudo 

They looked a bit casual right before the wave. 

Dennis C. 

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 12:55 PM, RANDY via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 



https://news.google.com/search?q=redondo+beach+sailboat+crash 

Looks like a Capri 18. 

Done right: 
1. All crew wearing PFDs. 
2. Capsized close to beach, easing rescue. 

Mistakes? 
1. Only had the jib up? Hard to head up under jib alone. 
2. No auxiliary power? 

Cheers, 
Randy 
(from SoCal, where it is windy this weekend) 

___ 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 






___ 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 

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Re: Stus-List Bad Race Start Last Night

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

This is the harbour they were trying to get out of or into. One report I
read said they were on their way out.

The boat went under the pier into the triangle area.

Really scary stuff.

https://goo.gl/maps/xpKnuNA4GZw

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 4:19 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Watching the "full version" first minute or two, looks like the main's
> luff was separated from the mast, and the crew was busy gathering up the
> main and trying to re-feed its luff.  He might have been able to run
> downwind on starboard tack under jib alone (don't know where that would
> have led), but then he gybed to port and couldn't make enough way to avoid
> the pier or not get tripped.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> --
> *From: *"Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"CnClist" 
> *Cc: *"Dennis" 
> *Sent: *Friday, March 31, 2017 12:44:21 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Bad Race Start Last Night
>
>
> Here's a nice video of it.
>
> https://youtu.be/Isufp-6fudo
>
> They looked a bit casual right before the wave.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 12:55 PM, RANDY via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> https://news.google.com/search?q=redondo+beach+sailboat+crash
>>
>> Looks like a Capri 18.
>>
>> Done right:
>> 1. All crew wearing PFDs.
>> 2. Capsized close to beach, easing rescue.
>>
>> Mistakes?
>> 1. Only had the jib up?  Hard to head up under jib alone.
>> 2. No auxiliary power?
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Randy
>> (from SoCal, where it is windy this weekend)
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Stus-List Battery charger advice, please

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
Our 1994 C&C 37/40+ has 2 battery chargers.  There is also a ProMariner 
ProSport 12, Gen 3 which is currently hooked up to the house bank, comprised of 
2 Series 31 lead acid batteries. It was originally hooked up to one gel cell 
and one lead acid (I know, wrong) and was set to the gel cell setting.  Now 
that I have reverted back to solely lead acid, I have changed it back to charge 
on the lead acid setting.  

One 50 amp model, which is clearly original equipment, and hums when it is on.  
Not my favorite noise, but maybe that's just me.  
In the pile of stuff left behind by the P.O. is a Guest Charge Pro 2611A, 10 
amp charger (5/5).  It seems to work.  Considering the solid-state and quite 
nature of these, If I connect the starting battery (also a Series 31) to the 10 
amp charger, and leave the ProSport 12 connected to the house bank, 1). Would 
this provide sufficient charging power?  2).  Is there a reason to keep the old 
50 amp unit?  That one, in addition to humming, takes up a lot of space which I 
could use for additional storage.  
Thanks! 
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Not wanting to come off as a “conspiracy theory” nut, but they do sell a 
remote oil filter kit that lets you orient the oil filter vertically and in an 
area where you can actually get tools and a trash bag around the filter to 
catch the oil waste.

 

On my M34B the oil filter is so tight against the bottom of the cooling hose 
that it becomes a major hassle to even get a strap wrench on the filter. That, 
and the mess from dripping oil, becomes a major motivation for buying a remote 
kit every time I change the oil.   

 

So ya think maybe the dumb design is really smart marketing? Or am I just being 
a cynic?

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 7:54 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

 

 (I really wish they had oriented the oil filter up and down instead of laying 
it on its side.) 

 

I second that thought.  Whomever designed that placement never changed the oil 
filter on one of these engines!  Dave

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger advice, please

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Bruce,

Your proposal should work but, here are a few things to consider.  Lead
acid batteries should normally not be charged at a rate greater than 20% of
capacity.  Group 31 batteries usually have about 100Ah of capacity so lets
assume that your house bank is 200Ah and 20% is 40 Amps.  Your start bank
would be 20 Amps.  Now if you were to go cruising and drained your house
bank to the recommended max discharge of 50% or 100Ah then when you pulled
in to the marina you would be limited to the charge rate of whatever
charger you had.  A 20amp charger would take ~5 hours.  There are some
inefficiencies at the top end so lets add 2 hours for a total of 7.

Imagine if that was a 10amp charger.  You be waiting 10 hours +2 for a
total of 12 hours.  Your 12 amp charger isn't going to be much faster.  If
this is all fine for you then you'll likely be happy with the setup.  You
should also consider the loads which you'll be running while charging.  If
you stay aboard for a night then you'll be using the entertainment, lights,
fridge, water, etc.  The loads add up and take away from that which is
going to charge the batteries.

I have been satisfied with my ProMariner P-Nautic 1260.  It charges my
400Ah bank on one of three channels and my 200Ah bank on another.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Mar 31, 2017 4:42 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hello all,

Our 1994 C&C 37/40+ has 2 battery chargers.  There is also a ProMariner
ProSport 12, Gen 3 which is currently hooked up to the house bank,
comprised of 2 Series 31 lead acid batteries. It was originally hooked up
to one gel cell and one lead acid (I know, *wrong*) and was set to the gel
cell setting.  Now that I have reverted back to solely lead acid, I have
changed it back to charge on the lead acid setting.

One 50 amp model, which is clearly original equipment, and hums when it is
on.  Not my favorite noise, but maybe that's just me.

In the pile of stuff left behind by the P.O. is a Guest Charge Pro 2611A,
10 amp charger (5/5).  It seems to work.  Considering the solid-state and
quite nature of these, If I connect the starting battery (also a Series 31)
to the 10 amp charger, and leave the ProSport 12 connected to the house
bank, 1). Would this provide sufficient charging power?  2).  Is there a
reason to keep the old 50 amp unit?  That one, in addition to humming,
takes up a lot of space which I could use for additional storage.

Thanks!

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery charger advice, please

[David Castor via CnC-List]

50 A is a massive charger.  My boat came with the same Guest Charge Pro
charger. One of the 5 amp outputs goes to the engine battery and the other
goes to the house bank (200 Ah).  It seems to work, although I think the 5
A to the house bank is probably too small.  Per the Guest documentation,
you can connect both outputs in parallel for 10 A.  It is a "smart" charger
and will maintain a trickle float charge after charging., so you can leave
it on.

Dave

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 1:41 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Our 1994 C&C 37/40+ has 2 battery chargers.  There is also a ProMariner
> ProSport 12, Gen 3 which is currently hooked up to the house bank,
> comprised of 2 Series 31 lead acid batteries. It was originally hooked up
> to one gel cell and one lead acid (I know, *wrong*) and was set to the
> gel cell setting.  Now that I have reverted back to solely lead acid, I
> have changed it back to charge on the lead acid setting.
>
> One 50 amp model, which is clearly original equipment, and hums when it is
> on.  Not my favorite noise, but maybe that's just me.
>
> In the pile of stuff left behind by the P.O. is a Guest Charge Pro 2611A,
> 10 amp charger (5/5).  It seems to work.  Considering the solid-state and
> quite nature of these, If I connect the starting battery (also a Series 31)
> to the 10 amp charger, and leave the ProSport 12 connected to the house
> bank, 1). Would this provide sufficient charging power?  2).  Is there a
> reason to keep the old 50 amp unit?  That one, in addition to humming,
> takes up a lot of space which I could use for additional storage.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List sobering mob stats

[Paul Hood via CnC-List]

With all the mob talk I thought I'd provide this link.  Surprising!!

http://marine.the-justgroup.com/man-overboard-statistics/

Paul
C&C34. 81



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Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Greetings all. 

The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the filter in 
the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean the tank. 
But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector spray 
pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to extract and 
clean it or replace it. 
Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Send the injectors to a diesel repair shop.  They know what they are doing.
Frank 

On Friday, March 31, 2017 9:06 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Greetings all. 

The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the filter in 
the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean the tank. 
But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector spray 
pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to extract and 
clean it or replace it. 
Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

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