Re: Stus-List C&C 24

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

If someone has the polars I'd be interested as well.  I've been doing some 
calcs on various boats for spin vs. white sails for PHRF handicapping and could 
use another boat for a data point.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL


  From: Doug Ellmore via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Doug Ellmore 
 Sent: Monday, April 3, 2017 1:24 PM
 Subject: Stus-List C&C 24
   
Howdy,
Looking for polar diagram for the C&C 24.  If you have a set you can share it 
would be great.
I will be racing s/v Red Sky (1976, #102) on the Chesapeake with the Herrington 
Harbour Sailing Association.
-- 
Doug Ellmore, sr.d...@ellmore.net
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Window thickness

[David Blair via CnC-List]

Is 3/8” cast acrylic correct for redoing the Lewmar small cabin top opening 
hatches too? (Think they are about 14” x 5”). Planning to do two this summer.  
Tx

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2017 1:50 PM
To: C&C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window thickness

 

9mm (3/8") is the correct thickness.

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City TC

Portland, OR

 

On Mon, Apr 3, 2017 at 11:54 AM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi all,

 

Starting the project of replacing my windows on 34/36.

 

Made the templates yesterday, but forgot to measure the thickness of the lexan.

 

Anyone know offhand what this is? It looked to be about 1/4 in.

 

It would save me a drive back up to the boat.

 

Eric

 

S/V Hee Soo

C&C 34/36


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-- 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 135, Issue 14

[Joseph Scott via CnC-List]

Thanks all for the help. To get going for launch in a couple weeks I'm going to 
replace the broken pump with the same thing and look to install something more 
substantial as a second pump in the spring. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 3, 2017, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  CC 38 Bilge Pump (coltrek)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2017 10:57:03 -0400
> From: coltrek 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> 
> They say that the best pump ever invented is two terrified men and a bucket !
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Bill ColemanC&C 39
> 
>  Original message 
> From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"  
> Date: 4/3/17  10:26  (GMT-05:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump 
> 
> IMHO:
> There are two kinds of bilge pumps.
> 1 - routine: These get the standard daily leaks. Capacity is not important, 
> being able to be mounted low down and being reliable is. For a modern 
> fiberglass boat, you have an issue if even the smallest pump is running all 
> the time at the dock or underway in calm weather. None of my pumps are 
> automatic and I have no issue with water over a 2-3 week period.
> 2 - emergency - Anything but the very largest pumps you can fit are not going 
> to keep up with even one thru-hull and none of them will sit low enough to be 
> good for routine use. The one time a plumbing malfunction* had water almost 
> to the bunks at 0100 I can tell you my big hand pump was doing more than BOTH 
> of my 500 GPH electrical pumps. Motivation is key here :) Also bought a float 
> for a bilge alarm after that ;)
> 
> Joe
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I
> 
> 
> * When installing a new engine, I managed to hit the loop I had in a pump 
> outlet and move it from a couple inches above the static water line to an 
> inch lower. It made a dandy siphon with everyone and all the gear aboard when 
> it did not unloaded at the dock. 
> !
> -- next part --
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> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
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> End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 135, Issue 14
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Re: Stus-List Window thickness

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

9mm (3/8") is the correct thickness.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City TC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Apr 3, 2017 at 11:54 AM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Starting the project of replacing my windows on 34/36.
>
> Made the templates yesterday, but forgot to measure the thickness of the
> lexan.
>
> Anyone know offhand what this is? It looked to be about 1/4 in.
>
> It would save me a drive back up to the boat.
>
> Eric
>
> S/V Hee Soo
> C&C 34/36
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=
> vimHtdkrU4Bdhmcp2A1C5VO12_UwSy28iOVTmkAny8w&s=0aLbDq6lnWlvQnGYIfCxUGxw_
> yQeZEybP5aZMgc92Hk&e=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Window thickness

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Eric — when I redid my windows last year, it was 1/4” from the previous owner 
that was part of the cause of the failure.  You really need to use thicker 
acrylic (NOT Lexan…); I ended up with 9mm (just under 3/8”) and it worked well.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 3, 2017, at 1:54 PM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Starting the project of replacing my windows on 34/36.
> 
> Made the templates yesterday, but forgot to measure the thickness of the 
> lexan.
> 
> Anyone know offhand what this is? It looked to be about 1/4 in.
> 
> It would save me a drive back up to the boat.
> 
> Eric
> 
> S/V Hee Soo
> C&C 34/36

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Stus-List Window thickness

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Hi all,

Starting the project of replacing my windows on 34/36.

Made the templates yesterday, but forgot to measure the thickness of the
lexan.

Anyone know offhand what this is? It looked to be about 1/4 in.

It would save me a drive back up to the boat.

Eric

S/V Hee Soo
C&C 34/36
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Stus-List C&C 24

[Doug Ellmore via CnC-List]

Howdy,

Looking for polar diagram for the C&C 24.  If you have a set you can share
it would be great.

I will be racing s/v Red Sky (1976, #102) on the Chesapeake with
the Herrington Harbour Sailing Association.

-- 
Doug Ellmore, Sr.
d...@ellmore.net
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Re: Stus-List white smoke/steam

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

My 2QM20 raw water cooled Yanmar used to steam a lot.  I worked with my
mechanic to figure it out.  Replacing the thermostat fixed it and also
brought down the block running temp quite a bit.

Also some treatments of salt-away through the cooling systems seemed to
increase the quantity of cooling water egress.

Cheers,
  Jeremy
  78 C&C34
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Stus-List Spray foaming an icebox

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

You can buy closed cell foam which will not get saturated with water, it's 
harder to find but available. Len

Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Depth sounder installation

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Mike — part of the reason to use a backing block is to make sure you have a 
flat spot in the rounded hull to mount the transducer; it’s not so much for 
reinforcement.  It also gives you more of the shaft of the transducer to seal 
with whatever goop you use as a sealant; I use LifeSeal when I install 
transducers.  Goop up the flange and bottom several threads of the transducer, 
and HAND-tighten the nut inside on top of the rubber gasket; then come back a 
day later and tighten the nut a bit more, if it will easily turn.

If your location is really flat, go ahead and mount without a block; but I 
would recommend using the gasket from the manufacturer.  Then if your boat 
sinks and you can prove you followed Airmar’s instructions, you can sue them…   
:^)

— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 4:45 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi gang,
> 
> Last fall I wrote about removing my depth sounder as water was leaking in.  
> It was a traditional external depth sounder with a mushroom head.  It was 
> held in place with a locking nut that screwed down against a wood backing 
> block. 
> 
> I dug out the rotten wood and ground down all the glass that had been used to 
> hold it in place. The installation was really overkill.  I wasn't able to 
> remove the transducer without stripping the threads, so I bought a new one.
> 
> I now have a smooth, pretty flat surface around the transducer hole. I bought 
> the same transducer (Raymarine, i.e. Airmar,)
> 
> So here are my questions:
> 
> 1. I have made up a fibreglass backing block, but do I really need a backing 
> block given that there really aren't any stresses on the transducer?  It's 
> not like a through-hull where you are opening and closing a valve.
> 
> 2. The new transducer came with a rubber washer that sits on the inside and 
> the locking nut is supposed to be hand tightened down onto it. Is this really 
> a good idea? Won't the rubber shrink a bit with age?
> 
> 3. For my sealant, is there any difference between 3M 4200 and Sikaflex 291 
> sealant/adhesive? I'm not sure if the Sikaflex is suitable for underwater 
> applications. 
> 
> My current thought is to use the backing plate given that I've made it up 
> already and skip rubber washer.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike
> Atacama. 33mkii
> Toronto 

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Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

The best emergency pump is one where you can bring the pump to the problem.   
If the pick up for the pump is midships or further aft and a hull breech is in 
the bow, the ship is likely to start sinking bow first and raising the pickup 
well above the rising water.  This is not uncommon when sailboats strike 
semi-submerged objects in the water.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 3, 2017, at 10:57 AM, coltrek via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> They say that the best pump ever invented is two terrified men and a bucket !
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"  
> Date: 4/3/17 10:26 (GMT-05:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump 
> 
> IMHO:
> There are two kinds of bilge pumps.
> 1 - routine: These get the standard daily leaks. Capacity is not important, 
> being able to be mounted low down and being reliable is. For a modern 
> fiberglass boat, you have an issue if even the smallest pump is running all 
> the time at the dock or underway in calm weather. None of my pumps are 
> automatic and I have no issue with water over a 2-3 week period.
> 2 - emergency - Anything but the very largest pumps you can fit are not going 
> to keep up with even one thru-hull and none of them will sit low enough to be 
> good for routine use. The one time a plumbing malfunction* had water almost 
> to the bunks at 0100 I can tell you my big hand pump was doing more than BOTH 
> of my 500 GPH electrical pumps. Motivation is key here :) Also bought a float 
> for a bilge alarm after that ;)
> 
> Joe
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I
> 
> 
> * When installing a new engine, I managed to hit the loop I had in a pump 
> outlet and move it from a couple inches above the static water line to an 
> inch lower. It made a dandy siphon with everyone and all the gear aboard when 
> it did not unloaded at the dock. 
> !
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump

[coltrek via CnC-List]

They say that the best pump ever invented is two terrified men and a bucket !


Regards,
Bill ColemanC&C 39

 Original message 
From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"  
Date: 4/3/17  10:26  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump 

IMHO:
There are two kinds of bilge pumps.
1 - routine: These get the standard daily leaks. Capacity is not important, 
being able to be mounted low down and being reliable is. For a modern 
fiberglass boat, you have an issue if even the smallest pump is running all the 
time at the dock or underway in calm weather. None of my pumps are automatic 
and I have no issue with water over a 2-3 week period.
2 - emergency - Anything but the very largest pumps you can fit are not going 
to keep up with even one thru-hull and none of them will sit low enough to be 
good for routine use. The one time a plumbing malfunction* had water almost to 
the bunks at 0100 I can tell you my big hand pump was doing more than BOTH of 
my 500 GPH electrical pumps. Motivation is key here :) Also bought a float for 
a bilge alarm after that ;)

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I


* When installing a new engine, I managed to hit the loop I had in a pump 
outlet and move it from a couple inches above the static water line to an inch 
lower. It made a dandy siphon with everyone and all the gear aboard when it did 
not unloaded at the dock. 
!
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Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Dave,

I should have showed it to you at the Defender Show, but the top of the line 
Spinlock Deck Vest has an integrated cutting tool along with an LED light and a 
spray hood that goes over your head if you find yourself in rough wavy 
conditions with no way of keeping water away from your face.  That said, the 
vest is every bit of $300, but it has all the features.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 8:33 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

 

If I can add to Graham question- one of the things I am unhappy about with my 
auto-inflating life jacket is the lack of pockets.  I always wear it when 
single handing, but I don’t always remember to grab a knife to keep in my 
pocket.  I wish I had a way to keep the knife with the jacket.  Are there 
jackets with pockets that would hold a knife?  Other solutions people use?  
Thanks- Dave

 

On Mar 30, 2017, at 7:06 AM, Graham Young via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Then there is the issue of getting yourself back on the boat if you manage to 
survive a dragging and decide not to cut yourself free. I was recently reading 
Andrew Evans book on single-handed sailing.  He was talking about someone who 
fell overboard and managed to survive and after the fact talked about the 
challenge that the lifelines posed to getting back aboard.  Whatever else the 
pros and cons of Dyneema lifelines are, he was talking about the potential 
benefit of being able to cut the lifeline in an emergency, particularly for a 
single-hander who has no one else to help him/her back aboard.

 

Following up on Kevin's recommendation to check out Navigation Landfall, they 
have customizable Dyneema jacklines for about $2 per foot.  Anyone have any 
experience with this type of jackline?  The description touted Dyneema's 
strength and low stretch as an advantage.

 

Also, on the topic of cutting yourself away, what do others choose to use for a 
rescue knife?  I'm particularly interested in others thoughts about a folding 
versus sheathed knife.  It seems to me that a securely sheathed knife would be 
an advantage as you may not have 2 hand free to unfold your knife in an 
emergency.  But Gill has a rescue knife that is folding.

 

 

 

 

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Joe,
I'm a big believer in bilge pumps. Pegathy has 2, 2000 gph each, on separate 
float switches and separate toggle switches. I've had pumps fail many times, 
for unknown reasons. More than increasing your capacity, I'd recommend 
installing a spare pump with the float switch set slightly higher than the 
primary pump, just in case of failure. Pretty cheap insurance, if you ask me.
Dan SheerPegathy - LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I also put one of these on board:

https://www.amazon.com/BECKSON-MARINE-524C-Beckson-Thirsy/dp/B009XCO2Z0

-Original Message- 
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, April 03, 2017 10:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump

IMHO:
There are two kinds of bilge pumps.
1 - routine: These get the standard daily leaks. Capacity is not important, 
being able to be mounted low down and being reliable is. For a modern 
fiberglass boat, you have an issue if even the smallest pump is running all 
the time at the dock or underway in calm weather. None of my pumps are 
automatic and I have no issue with water over a 2-3 week period.
2 - emergency - Anything but the very largest pumps you can fit are not 
going to keep up with even one thru-hull and none of them will sit low 
enough to be good for routine use. The one time a plumbing malfunction* had 
water almost to the bunks at 0100 I can tell you my big hand pump was doing 
more than BOTH of my 500 GPH electrical pumps. Motivation is key here :) 
Also bought a float for a bilge alarm after that ;)


Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I


* When installing a new engine, I managed to hit the loop I had in a pump 
outlet and move it from a couple inches above the static water line to an 
inch lower. It made a dandy siphon with everyone and all the gear aboard 
when it did not unloaded at the dock.


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, April 3, 2017 6:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump

I just finished replacing a rule pump in the deep bilge on my 37/40+ with a 
Whale Gulper and a water witch switch.  I have a Rule 800 gah in another 
spot.  The Rule is way weak by comparison.  I mounted the whale gulper 
somewhat remotely.  I feel as though, despite it being rated at 300 gph that 
is much more effective than any Rule pump I've ever owned.


Just my $ .02 worth...

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

On Apr 2, 2017, at 8:35 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Joe,

800gph seems plenty.  It will rid your bilge of pesky water seepage in
no time.  If you have a serious hull breach, a much larger pump will
be required,

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Joseph Scott via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 2, 2017 19:10
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joseph Scott 
Subject: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump

Hey All

I need to replace the automatic electric bilge pump. Currently the
boat has a rule 800gph on a float switch. I feel this is woefully
inadequate but am struggling with finding the space in the bilge for
something larger not to mention the fact that the thru hull to go 
overboard will accept 3/4" hose.

What do you guys use?

Thanks for any help

Joe

Sent from my iPad
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 



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Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

IMHO:
There are two kinds of bilge pumps.
1 - routine: These get the standard daily leaks. Capacity is not important, 
being able to be mounted low down and being reliable is. For a modern 
fiberglass boat, you have an issue if even the smallest pump is running all the 
time at the dock or underway in calm weather. None of my pumps are automatic 
and I have no issue with water over a 2-3 week period.
2 - emergency - Anything but the very largest pumps you can fit are not going 
to keep up with even one thru-hull and none of them will sit low enough to be 
good for routine use. The one time a plumbing malfunction* had water almost to 
the bunks at 0100 I can tell you my big hand pump was doing more than BOTH of 
my 500 GPH electrical pumps. Motivation is key here :) Also bought a float for 
a bilge alarm after that ;)

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I


* When installing a new engine, I managed to hit the loop I had in a pump 
outlet and move it from a couple inches above the static water line to an inch 
lower. It made a dandy siphon with everyone and all the gear aboard when it did 
not unloaded at the dock. 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 3, 2017 6:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump

I just finished replacing a rule pump in the deep bilge on my 37/40+ with a 
Whale Gulper and a water witch switch.  I have a Rule 800 gah in another spot.  
The Rule is way weak by comparison.  I mounted the whale gulper somewhat 
remotely.  I feel as though, despite it being rated at 300 gph that is much 
more effective than any Rule pump I've ever owned.

Just my $ .02 worth...

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

> On Apr 2, 2017, at 8:35 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Joe,
> 
> 800gph seems plenty.  It will rid your bilge of pesky water seepage in 
> no time.  If you have a serious hull breach, a much larger pump will 
> be required,
> 
> Jake
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
> Hampton VA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Joseph Scott via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 2, 2017 19:10
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joseph Scott 
> Subject: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump
> 
> Hey All
> 
> I need to replace the automatic electric bilge pump. Currently the 
> boat has a rule 800gph on a float switch. I feel this is woefully 
> inadequate but am struggling with finding the space in the bilge for 
> something larger not to mention the fact that the thru hull to go overboard 
> will accept 3/4" hose.
> What do you guys use?
> 
> Thanks for any help
> 
> Joe
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
> you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
> you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Stus-List Engine Coolant Temperature, sender and gauge

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

The subject on engine coolant made me inquire; do the Yanmar's and others
have fitting pipe plugs in the water jackets to enable a temperature sender
probe to be installed?  Variations in readings would indicate air in the
lines, stuck open or closed thermostat and general performance for baseline
data.
Bill Dakin
25MKII
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Re: Stus-List Adding insulation to the icebox on a 38 mk2

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

There is a good article on the C&C27 association web page about insulating with 
foam injected outside the liner along with bits of foam board where he could 
get at it. In a nutshell, the author drilled injection holes down through the 
counter top behind the ice box where no other access was possible and put down 
new laminate afterwards. - Plus the usual caveats about limiting the amount of 
foam applied at one time to avoid damaging pressure build up. If I recall 
correctly there is also data about the change in pounds per day of ice melt 
that resulted. It was a good result. 

My worry with that method is that the toe rail might leak and the open cell 
foam from the spray cans might become permanently saturated. Maybe I am over 
thinking this?

Steve Thomas
C&C 27 MKIII
C&C 36
 
 "phorvati . via CnC-List"  wrote: 
I can drill holes form the inside and inject 2 part foam or expendafoam.
that's what I did for outboard end.


On Apr 2, 2017 9:09 AM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> My question is primarily directed at the 38-2 owners on the list, but
> might also be appropriate for owners of other mid 70s boats.
>
>
>
> Have you added insulation around the ice box on your boat, and how?
>
>
>
> Deconstructing the cabinets, counter, and dish storage cabinet aft of the
> ice box is way more project than I want to tackle (plus I’d undoubtedly
> screw up all that teak.
>
>
>
> Access through the little cabinet door under the three silverware drawers
> is miserable. I can basically get one arm into the space, or I can get my
> head in – so I can see a bit but only have limited ability to work in the
> space under the counter. And I don’t see and obvious or easy way to remove
> the structure that supports the drawers to increase the access.
>
>
>
> There are surprisingly large spaces between the outside of the ice box and
> the surrounding bulkheads, as much as 6” or more in some places, so spray
> in foam does not seem a practical alternative.
>
>
>
> About the only practical alternative I see is to add foam to the inside of
> the box and glass it over.
>
>
>
> I could profit from your experiences and suggestions.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C&C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


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Re: Stus-List white smoke/steam

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Replaced my exhaust elbow on 1GM last season with a stainless.  They're 
available on eBay.   Made it easier to start and reduced black smoking.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 2, 2017, at 10:36 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Brent,
> 
> If you or the previous owner ran the engine at low rpms frequently, then mix 
> elbow pluggage is more likely.  Diesels, and Yanmars in particular, like high 
> rpm and heavy loads.
> 
> First thing to try is to disconnect the water discharge hose that connects to 
> the mix elbow.  With the engine cold, crank the engine and observe the flow 
> for a short period.  Not long or the hot exhaust will damage the 
> muffler/exhaust hose system.  Reconnect it and observe the water being 
> ejected.  Is it noticeable less?  If so, the mix elbow is partially plugged 
> and should be cleaned.
> 
> If the water flow from the disconnected hose is very low, then start at the 
> discharge of the raw water pump, disconnecting each section and checking for 
> flow with engine running for short periods.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sun, Apr 2, 2017 at 9:01 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Thanks for the suggestion on the mixing elbow. That's my next item on the 
>> list after the injector. I've read that Yanmar had some very big mixing 
>> elbow issues with some falling apart inside from broken welds and pitted 
>> stainless steel issues. 
>> I'm not sure if there's a t-stat. I've never been able to find it. It's 
>> possible there could be blockages in the raw water channels as a piece of 
>> impeller had broke off years ago and could not be found. It was very small 
>> and hopefully went through. 
>> The good news is these are simple engines and Nigel's book has been helpful. 
>> Cheers
>> 
>> Brent
>> 27-5
>> s/v Wild Rover 
>> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Adding insulation to the icebox on a 38 mk2

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

I can drill holes form the inside and inject 2 part foam or expendafoam.
that's what I did for outboard end.


On Apr 2, 2017 9:09 AM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> My question is primarily directed at the 38-2 owners on the list, but
> might also be appropriate for owners of other mid 70s boats.
>
>
>
> Have you added insulation around the ice box on your boat, and how?
>
>
>
> Deconstructing the cabinets, counter, and dish storage cabinet aft of the
> ice box is way more project than I want to tackle (plus I’d undoubtedly
> screw up all that teak.
>
>
>
> Access through the little cabinet door under the three silverware drawers
> is miserable. I can basically get one arm into the space, or I can get my
> head in – so I can see a bit but only have limited ability to work in the
> space under the counter. And I don’t see and obvious or easy way to remove
> the structure that supports the drawers to increase the access.
>
>
>
> There are surprisingly large spaces between the outside of the ice box and
> the surrounding bulkheads, as much as 6” or more in some places, so spray
> in foam does not seem a practical alternative.
>
>
>
> About the only practical alternative I see is to add foam to the inside of
> the box and glass it over.
>
>
>
> I could profit from your experiences and suggestions.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C&C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

I just finished replacing a rule pump in the deep bilge on my 37/40+ with a 
Whale Gulper and a water witch switch.  I have a Rule 800 gah in another spot.  
The Rule is way weak by comparison.  I mounted the whale gulper somewhat 
remotely.  I feel as though, despite it being rated at 300 gph that is much 
more effective than any Rule pump I've ever owned.

Just my $ .02 worth...

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

> On Apr 2, 2017, at 8:35 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Joe,
> 
> 800gph seems plenty.  It will rid your bilge of pesky water seepage in no
> time.  If you have a serious hull breach, a much larger pump will be
> required,
> 
> Jake
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
> Hampton VA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
> Scott via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 2, 2017 19:10
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joseph Scott 
> Subject: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump
> 
> Hey All
> 
> I need to replace the automatic electric bilge pump. Currently the boat has
> a rule 800gph on a float switch. I feel this is woefully inadequate but am
> struggling with finding the space in the bilge for something larger not to
> mention the fact that the thru hull to go overboard will accept 3/4" hose. 
> What do you guys use?
> 
> Thanks for any help 
> 
> Joe
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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