Re: Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C&C 30 MK1 1979 (Steven Tattrie)

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

On Mon, Apr 10, 2017 at 1:03 PM, Steven Tattrie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Does any one with tracks have interference with the shrouds? I am
> thinking, when the wind pick up you want to flatten the foot, visually
> looks like the shroud would restrict sail shape. any comments?
>

Steve,

My 35-1 has a jib track near the shrouds.  The sheet for my 95% blade trims
between the forward lower and upper shrouds.  Pics can be seen here:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsNll4b3ZwM1B4a28

I use this track until about 22-24 knots.  Above that the sheet moves to
the toe rail to increase the sheeting angle to reduce heel.

Larger sails trim to a genoa track aft of the shrouds.  Can be seen in the
same Drive folder.

One factor in locating genoa and jib tracks is interference from the
interior cabinetry.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Sending unit

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I think the sending unit has a gasket (flat AFAIK) and it may have 
disintegrated or stiffened and broke after many years. This may be all you need 
to replace. I wouldn't worry about finding a exact replacement, just a soft, 
diesel fuel resistant flat rubber-like sheet of ~ 1/16" can be used. 


Cut hole in it for sender arm and after assuring that the holes are lined up 
between the unit and tank top, drive the screws through the 'gasket' and you 
have a well sealed unit at the tank.


C&C had an access port cut into the tank on my 36 XL (1995) about 6 inches in 
diameter. This was sealed with a similar, floppy piece of rubber-like stuff 
held between the access cover plate and the tank with ~ 6 sheet metal screws 
with a random but fixed pattern that must be followed!


I can imagine a worker just putting the plate over the hole and using a hand 
drill to put 6 holes around the circumference--not at any precise angular 
separation--"...just put them about evenly around the edge and seal the thing 
up..."--especially when the tank was new and had no fuel in it.


Probably the way I would do it--never mind putting the holes every 60 
degrees!!---symmetry is way over-rated!. :>)


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb 


cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Phygital via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Phygital 
Sent: Mon, Apr 10, 2017 5:38 pm
Subject: Stus-List Fuel Tank Sending unit



Hi,


I have a small leak emanating between the sending unit and the top of the fuel 
tank on my 83 Landfall 38. 


Space is especially tight on these LF's and I'm wondering if anyone has had the 
"pleasure" of changing the sending unit or replacing the gasket (assuming there 
is one) on the LF 38, and what's involved. I'm trying to find some pictures of 
what the specific LF (likely original) sending unit looks like but no luck. If 
you have any or suggestions on replacements it would much appreciated.


Space is quite tight and only about 5-6 inches of clearance from the cockpit 
sole. 


The boat is on the hard and I'd like to tackle this before launch.


Thanks a lot,



/John


On Apr 10, 2017, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:



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Today's Topics:

   1.  RE Gel coat Crazing Below the Waterline (Joseph Scott)
   2. Re:  Eye splice in used line (bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net)
   3. Re:  AIS and MMSI as well as marine radio use in Canada
  (Marek Dziedzic)
   4. Re:  Gel coat crazing below waterline (Doug Ellmore)
   5. Re:  Gel coat crazing below waterline (Marek Dziedzic)












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Re: Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C&C 30 MK1 1979 (Steven Tattrie)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Typically your spreaders and your side stays are going to be the limiting
factors for any sail over a 100.  If you have a 90 or a 100 then you would
be able to sheet them in closer assuming that you had a sheet lead that was
inside.  In the article's example the blade jib was sheeted to a curved
track mounted forward of the mast.  Oddly, this sheet position wouldn't
lead far enough aft and as such doesn't provide as much tension on the foor
as it does on the leach.  This can be solved with a jib boom and out haul
which travels in front of the mast and is controlled port and stbd by cross
sheeting the jib sheets forward of the mast.  You'd also need a boom
downhaul.  So instead of all that we could simply have a sheet lead which
is inboard and aft of the spreaders... Or an even smaller jib, sau 70% or
80%.  Then maybe you would be able to have an inboard sheet lead which was
also far enough aft to provide the necessary tension on the leach and the
foot.  Now you just killed the majority of your thrust anf speed attempting
to sail tighter to the wind.  We didn't even address what all of this is
doing to the slot (headsail wind accelerating over the majnsail).  Remember
that you are should always be seeking the highest VMG or Course Speed
(CS).  Sometimes this means footing off slightly and letting the sails
breath a little.

Long story short, IMO the article seems to be envisioning some mystical
boat which defies modern sailing technology.  Our masts are set far enough
back in the boat that the headsail is the primary driver.  Use the largest
one appropriate for the wind conditions.  A 145 or 135 up to about 10 or 12
kts, 110 up to about 15 to 18 kts and a 90 for greater than 18 kts.  A
storm sail for anything higher than 25 kts.  Use a mainsail reefed such
that it balances the helm based on the selected headsail.

As you noticed, it is impossible to sheet in any further than having the
foot on the stays and the leach on the spreader.  45° to true wind and ~30°
to apparent wind.  Assuming no current and little slip this would be seen
as 90° tack angles.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Apr 10, 2017, 2:04 PM Steven Tattrie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi All, thank for everyone that provided feedback on genoa track on a
> C&C30 mk1.
>
> Micheal Brown pointed out an interesting sailing magazine article
> http://www.sailmagazine.com/racing/regattas/headsail-sheeting/
>
> My take away here is I should be sheeting as close as 7 degrees up to 10
> degrees depending on wind. I visited my boat this weekend and based on my
> trigonometry math skills I would have not issue sheeting too close . It
> would be difficult to meet the seven degrees in light wind. With that in
> mind my concern is shroud location.
>
> Does any one with tracks have interference with the shrouds? I am
> thinking, when the wind pick up you want to flatten the foot, visually
> looks like the shroud would restrict sail shape. any comments?
>
> Steve
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Opinions on hull/keel crack expansion

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/keep-your-bilge-dry-with-a-garboard-drain-plug/

On Mon, Apr 10, 2017, 5:50 PM Josh Muckley  wrote:

> Gene,
>
> If you're spending a significant amount of time out of the water and can't
> keep your bilge dry (not uncommon).  Many of the listers have installed
> garboard drains.  They install the plug and then fare over the outer hole.
> In the winter once the boat is hauled out the plug is removed and the
> faring is knocked out.  The bilge drains completely for the duration of the
> winter.
>
> As for your keel to hull crack.  Many of the listers refer to this as the
> C&C smile.  Some do so little that when their boat smiles at them they just
> smile back.  Others have gone so far as to remove the keel and thoroughly
> refit.  Generally speaking you should at least check the keel bolt torque.
> This should be only be done while sitting on the hard.  It will usually
> require removal of the mast to get to one of the keel bolts.  You'll also
> need some jumbo sockets, a torque multiplier, and a torque wrench.  After
> checking the torque, some of the listers have had good results grinding a
> 1/2" deep 'V' groove at the crack, filling with thickened epoxy, and
> applying a 4" wide fiberglass tape bandage all the way around the keel.
>
> Here is a different prescription:
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Good luck,
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Apr 10, 2017 1:36 PM, "Eugene Fodor via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have a crack at my hull/keel joint and am debating filling it with 4200.
> It is no significant and as I understand it this is pretty normal for boats
> with an external keel. My concern is that since my boats up north in
> Wisconsin and spends a good amount of time frozen, I'm wondering if filling
> it might actually cause expansion if any water gets down the keel bolt and
> through the cracks. One of my keel bolts has had this problem which I
> mitigated through drilling a hole on each side of the bulge, epoxy fill and
> some vigorous hammering. Thoughts?
>
> Gene Fodor
> "Hawk"
> C&C 29-2 84-85
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Opinions on hull/keel crack expansion

[Dave via CnC-List]

Does the 29-2 have a putty-filled forward Section of keel stub?  If so, be wary 
of a volume of water therein

In windstar (33-2) I did a major keel box repair then lifted the hull off the 
keel a few extra mm, cleaned the gap, (hacksaw blade, fein mutimaster). then 
filled as much of the gap as I could, I think it was 4200.  I then dropped the 
boat back down, torqued the bolts and let the compound kick.  There was lots of 
squeeze out, I wiped it fair.
Then I dished the joint with an angle grinder, about 3-4" either side of the 
joint, covered it with glass cloth laid on its bias, in slightly thickened 
epoxy, then faired it with more epoxy.  (I like epoxy...).  Then, interprotect 
and anti fouling paint.  
One season and a frozen Toronto winter on the hard later, no cracks no leaks.  
The joint is invisible.If I need to repair, I can buzz it off with a 
grinder any time.  

Dave 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 10, 2017, at 1:35 PM, Eugene Fodor  wrote:
> 
> I have a crack at my hull/keel joint and am debating filling it with 4200. It 
> is no significant and as I understand it this is pretty normal for boats with 
> an external keel. My concern is that since my boats up north in Wisconsin and 
> spends a good amount of time frozen, I'm wondering if filling it might 
> actually cause expansion if any water gets down the keel bolt and through the 
> cracks. One of my keel bolts has had this problem which I mitigated through 
> drilling a hole on each side of the bulge, epoxy fill and some vigorous 
> hammering. Thoughts?
> 
> Gene Fodor
> "Hawk"
> C&C 29-2 84-85

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Re: Stus-List gel coat below waterline

[Doug Ellmore via CnC-List]

Try the root of the URL and then go to photos.  You should see my c&c 24
album.


http://www.hhsa.clubexpress.com/


On Apr 10, 2017 5:48 PM,  wrote:

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Gel coat crazing below waterline (Bill Dakin)
   2.  Opinions on hull/keel crack expansion (Eugene Fodor)
   3.  genoa cars and tracks - C&C 30 MK1 1979 (Steven Tattrie)
  (Steven Tattrie)
   4. Re:  genoa cars and tracks - C&C 30 MK1 1979 (Steven Tattrie)
  (Matthew L. Wolford)
   5. Re:  Opinions on hull/keel crack expansion (Bill Dakin)
   6.  Mast Re-Wire -- Need Advice (kelly petew)
   7.  Fuel Tank Sending unit (Phygital)
   8. Re:  Fuel Tank Sending unit (Edd Schillay)


-- Forwarded message --
From: Bill Dakin 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 11:35:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gel coat crazing below waterline
Do you have another link?  It replies the session expired.

Bill Dakin
25MKII


You can see pics at: http://hhsa.clubexpress.com/
content.aspx?page_id=187&club_id=8237

I



-- Forwarded message --
From: Eugene Fodor 
To: cnc-list 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 12:35:21 -0500
Subject: Stus-List Opinions on hull/keel crack expansion
I have a crack at my hull/keel joint and am debating filling it with 4200.
It is no significant and as I understand it this is pretty normal for boats
with an external keel. My concern is that since my boats up north in
Wisconsin and spends a good amount of time frozen, I'm wondering if filling
it might actually cause expansion if any water gets down the keel bolt and
through the cracks. One of my keel bolts has had this problem which I
mitigated through drilling a hole on each side of the bulge, epoxy fill and
some vigorous hammering. Thoughts?

Gene Fodor
"Hawk"
C&C 29-2 84-85


-- Forwarded message --
From: Steven Tattrie 
To: cnc-list 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 15:03:31 -0300
Subject: Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C&C 30 MK1 1979 (Steven Tattrie)
Hi All, thank for everyone that provided feedback on genoa track on a C&C30
mk1.

Micheal Brown pointed out an interesting sailing magazine article
http://www.sailmagazine.com/racing/regattas/headsail-sheeting/

My take away here is I should be sheeting as close as 7 degrees up to 10
degrees depending on wind. I visited my boat this weekend and based on my
trigonometry math skills I would have not issue sheeting too close . It
would be difficult to meet the seven degrees in light wind. With that in
mind my concern is shroud location.

Does any one with tracks have interference with the shrouds? I am thinking,
when the wind pick up you want to flatten the foot, visually looks like the
shroud would restrict sail shape. any comments?

Steve






-- Forwarded message --
From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
To: 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 15:23:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C&C 30 MK1 1979 (Steven
Tattrie)
I don’t have a 30-1, so I doubt this helps; but on my 42 the shrouds are a
problem when sheeting tight while going upwind and using the genny car
track.

*From:* Steven Tattrie via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Monday, April 10, 2017 2:03 PM
*To:* cnc-list 
*Cc:* Steven Tattrie 
*Subject:* Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C&C 30 MK1 1979 (Steven
Tattrie)

Hi All, thank for everyone that provided feedback on genoa track on a C&C30
mk1.

Micheal Brown pointed out an interesting sailing magazine article
http://www.sailmagazine.com/racing/regattas/headsail-sheeting/

My take away here is I should be sheeting as close as 7 degrees up to 10
degrees depending on wind. I visited my boat this weekend and based on my
trigonometry math skills I would have not issue sheeting too close . It
would be difficult to meet the seven degrees in light wind. With that in
mind my concern is shroud location.

Does any one with tracks have interference with the shrouds? I am thinking,
when the wind pick up you want to flatten the foot, visually looks like the
shroud would restrict sail shape. any comments?

Steve





--
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-- Forwarded message --
From: Bill Dakin 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 15:58:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Opinions o

Re: Stus-List Opinions on hull/keel crack expansion

[Eugene Fodor via CnC-List]

I don't believe I have an iron core. The C&C 29-II manual says that it's
lead/antimony alloy cast around steel keel bolts. I'm also in fresh water
(Lake Superior) where rust is slower than in salt. My main concern is
expansion due to small amounts of water getting in through the bilge around
the keel bolts and then expanding gaps due to the freeze/thaw cycle up here.

Gene



>
> Expansion will occur when moisture and ferrous metals react through
> rusting. Do the 29's of these years have a cast iron core?  If so, the
> moisture will cause the iron to corrode and be very serious.  An example of
> this is when concrete reinforced slabs develop cracks sufficient to allow
> water to penetrate to the rebar.  Over time, the slab will fail as an
> integral unit.
>
> Bill Dakin
> 25MKII
>
> On Mon, Apr 10, 2017 at 12:35 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> > I have a crack at my hull/keel joint and am debating filling it with
> 4200.
> > It is no significant and as I understand it this is pretty normal for
> boats
> > with an external keel. My concern is that since my boats up north in
> > Wisconsin and spends a good amount of time frozen, I'm wondering if
> filling
> > it might actually cause expansion if any water gets down the keel bolt
> and
> > through the cracks. One of my keel bolts has had this problem which I
> > mitigated through drilling a hole on each side of the bulge, epoxy fill
> and
> > some vigorous hammering. Thoughts?
> >
> > Gene Fodor
> > "Hawk"
> > C&C 29-2 84-85
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> 
> Bill Dakin
> Tapestryaussies.org
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.
> com/attachments/20170410/f8f31537/attachment-0001.html>
>
> --
>
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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Sending unit

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Do yourself a favor.  For limited clearance work get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85035-35-MicroDriver-Set/dp/B0062FSAVI

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Apr 10, 2017 at 4:37 PM, Phygital via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I have a small leak emanating between the sending unit and the top of the
> fuel tank on my 83 Landfall 38.
>
> Space is especially tight on these LF's and I'm wondering if anyone has
> had the "pleasure" of changing the sending unit or replacing the gasket
> (assuming there is one) on the LF 38, and what's involved. I'm trying to
> find some pictures of what the specific LF (likely original) sending unit
> looks like but no luck. If you have any or suggestions on replacements it
> would much appreciated.
>
> Space is quite tight and only about 5-6 inches of clearance from the
> cockpit sole.
>
> The boat is on the hard and I'd like to tackle this before launch.
>
> Thanks a lot,
>
> /John
>
> On Apr 10, 2017, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1.  RE Gel coat Crazing Below the Waterline (Joseph Scott)
>   2. Re:  Eye splice in used line (bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net)
>   3. Re:  AIS and MMSI as well as marine radio use in Canada
>  (Marek Dziedzic)
>   4. Re:  Gel coat crazing below waterline (Doug Ellmore)
>   5. Re:  Gel coat crazing below waterline (Marek Dziedzic)
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> ___
> CnC-List mailing list
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> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Sending unit

[Phygital via CnC-List]

Thanks Ed


John,
Cassidy's Free,
Landfall 38, Hull 155, Kingston Ontario


/John

> On Apr 10, 2017, at 5:47 PM, Edd Schillay  wrote:
> 
> John,
> 
> I did this on my 37+ two years ago — most likely, you’ll be using a Moeller 
> Sending Unit. See: 
> https://www.westmarine.com/buy/moeller--electric-fuel-gauge-sending-units--P006_180_003_536?recordNum=1
>  
> 
> I’m sure, if you hunt around, you’ll find a better price than at Worst 
> Marine. 
> 
> The big PITA when I did it was the 5 screw holes — they are not equally 
> distant from each other — the sender goes in one way and one way only. Before 
> you pull the old one off, make some marks/notes about which hole is where. 
> 
> Good luck. Enjoy the fumes. 
> 
> Lastly, for some list etiquette, please include your boat name, model and 
> homeport on your emails. We love to know who is where and what they sail. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 2017 C&C Northeast Rendezvous "Movie Trailer” (114 Views!!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 10, 2017, at 5:37 PM, Phygital via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi,
>> 
>> I have a small leak emanating between the sending unit and the top of the 
>> fuel tank on my 83 Landfall 38. 
>> 
>> Space is especially tight on these LF's and I'm wondering if anyone has had 
>> the "pleasure" of changing the sending unit or replacing the gasket 
>> (assuming there is one) on the LF 38, and what's involved. I'm trying to 
>> find some pictures of what the specific LF (likely original) sending unit 
>> looks like but no luck. If you have any or suggestions on replacements it 
>> would much appreciated.
>> 
>> Space is quite tight and only about 5-6 inches of clearance from the cockpit 
>> sole. 
>> 
>> The boat is on the hard and I'd like to tackle this before launch.
>> 
>> Thanks a lot,
>> 
>> /John
>> 
> 
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Opinions on hull/keel crack expansion

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Gene,

If you're spending a significant amount of time out of the water and can't
keep your bilge dry (not uncommon).  Many of the listers have installed
garboard drains.  They install the plug and then fare over the outer hole.
In the winter once the boat is hauled out the plug is removed and the
faring is knocked out.  The bilge drains completely for the duration of the
winter.

As for your keel to hull crack.  Many of the listers refer to this as the
C&C smile.  Some do so little that when their boat smiles at them they just
smile back.  Others have gone so far as to remove the keel and thoroughly
refit.  Generally speaking you should at least check the keel bolt torque.
This should be only be done while sitting on the hard.  It will usually
require removal of the mast to get to one of the keel bolts.  You'll also
need some jumbo sockets, a torque multiplier, and a torque wrench.  After
checking the torque, some of the listers have had good results grinding a
1/2" deep 'V' groove at the crack, filling with thickened epoxy, and
applying a 4" wide fiberglass tape bandage all the way around the keel.

Here is a different prescription:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=drivesdk

Good luck,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Apr 10, 2017 1:36 PM, "Eugene Fodor via CnC-List" 
wrote:

I have a crack at my hull/keel joint and am debating filling it with 4200.
It is no significant and as I understand it this is pretty normal for boats
with an external keel. My concern is that since my boats up north in
Wisconsin and spends a good amount of time frozen, I'm wondering if filling
it might actually cause expansion if any water gets down the keel bolt and
through the cracks. One of my keel bolts has had this problem which I
mitigated through drilling a hole on each side of the bulge, epoxy fill and
some vigorous hammering. Thoughts?

Gene Fodor
"Hawk"
C&C 29-2 84-85

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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Sending unit

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

John,

I did this on my 37+ two years ago — most likely, you’ll be using a Moeller 
Sending Unit. See: 
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/moeller--electric-fuel-gauge-sending-units--P006_180_003_536?recordNum=1
 

 

I’m sure, if you hunt around, you’ll find a better price than at Worst Marine. 

The big PITA when I did it was the 5 screw holes — they are not equally distant 
from each other — the sender goes in one way and one way only. Before you pull 
the old one off, make some marks/notes about which hole is where. 

Good luck. Enjoy the fumes. 

Lastly, for some list etiquette, please include your boat name, model and 
homeport on your emails. We love to know who is where and what they sail. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 


2017 C&C Northeast Rendezvous "Movie Trailer” 
 (114 Views!!)





> On Apr 10, 2017, at 5:37 PM, Phygital via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have a small leak emanating between the sending unit and the top of the 
> fuel tank on my 83 Landfall 38. 
> 
> Space is especially tight on these LF's and I'm wondering if anyone has had 
> the "pleasure" of changing the sending unit or replacing the gasket (assuming 
> there is one) on the LF 38, and what's involved. I'm trying to find some 
> pictures of what the specific LF (likely original) sending unit looks like 
> but no luck. If you have any or suggestions on replacements it would much 
> appreciated.
> 
> Space is quite tight and only about 5-6 inches of clearance from the cockpit 
> sole. 
> 
> The boat is on the hard and I'd like to tackle this before launch.
> 
> Thanks a lot,
> 
> /John
> 

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Stus-List Fuel Tank Sending unit

[Phygital via CnC-List]

Hi,

I have a small leak emanating between the sending unit and the top of the fuel 
tank on my 83 Landfall 38. 

Space is especially tight on these LF's and I'm wondering if anyone has had the 
"pleasure" of changing the sending unit or replacing the gasket (assuming there 
is one) on the LF 38, and what's involved. I'm trying to find some pictures of 
what the specific LF (likely original) sending unit looks like but no luck. If 
you have any or suggestions on replacements it would much appreciated.

Space is quite tight and only about 5-6 inches of clearance from the cockpit 
sole. 

The boat is on the hard and I'd like to tackle this before launch.

Thanks a lot,

/John

> On Apr 10, 2017, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1.  RE Gel coat Crazing Below the Waterline (Joseph Scott)
>   2. Re:  Eye splice in used line (bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net)
>   3. Re:  AIS and MMSI as well as marine radio use in Canada
>  (Marek Dziedzic)
>   4. Re:  Gel coat crazing below waterline (Doug Ellmore)
>   5. Re:  Gel coat crazing below waterline (Marek Dziedzic)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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Stus-List Mast Re-Wire -- Need Advice

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Hello Listers,

First, some background --

Earlier this year, I had the mast extracted from Siren Song, my 30-2.  The 
rigger has completed his work, replacing the rod rigging and fittings, and 
rebuilding my Harken furler.

Also, I just finished painting the mast and spreaders with a one-part paint.


Now, I want to rewire the mast.  Preparatory to the extraction, I labeled the 
wires, marked fittings and blocks, and took MANY pics on my tablet.

I have removed the old VHF cabling, but I was unsuccessful in replacing it with 
LMR-400 [.405" dia.].  For other 30-2 owners, I found [the hard way] that it 
was too stiff and too big to fit.  I could only get it about 40% down the mast 
before it became hopelessly stucked.  Therefore, I have removed it, and 
re-ordered original type of cabling [rg-8x, .25" diameter].

I was hoping to get the enhance performance from the lmr cabling, but it won't 
happen, unfortunately.  I will replace the vhf antenna.


Now, I'm planning to replace electrical wires as well as light fixtures.

In doing a preliminary inspection, I found a "rat's nest" of wiring just below 
the mast's exit hole, which lines up with the underside of the deck when the 
mast is in the boat.  It looks as though excess wiring was simply pushed DOWN 
into the mast, and over time sagged further down [but still beyond arm's length 
from mast's bottom].


Any "tips and tricks", including the best tools to use for re-wiring the 
electricals will be greatly appreciated, i.e., extracting the old stuff and 
installing the new.


Fair Winds,


Pete W.

Siren Song

'91 C&C 30-2

Deltaville, Va.

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Re: Stus-List Opinions on hull/keel crack expansion

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Expansion will occur when moisture and ferrous metals react through
rusting. Do the 29's of these years have a cast iron core?  If so, the
moisture will cause the iron to corrode and be very serious.  An example of
this is when concrete reinforced slabs develop cracks sufficient to allow
water to penetrate to the rebar.  Over time, the slab will fail as an
integral unit.

Bill Dakin
25MKII

On Mon, Apr 10, 2017 at 12:35 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a crack at my hull/keel joint and am debating filling it with 4200.
> It is no significant and as I understand it this is pretty normal for boats
> with an external keel. My concern is that since my boats up north in
> Wisconsin and spends a good amount of time frozen, I'm wondering if filling
> it might actually cause expansion if any water gets down the keel bolt and
> through the cracks. One of my keel bolts has had this problem which I
> mitigated through drilling a hole on each side of the bulge, epoxy fill and
> some vigorous hammering. Thoughts?
>
> Gene Fodor
> "Hawk"
> C&C 29-2 84-85
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 

Bill Dakin
Tapestryaussies.org
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Re: Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C&C 30 MK1 1979 (Steven Tattrie)

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I don’t have a 30-1, so I doubt this helps; but on my 42 the shrouds are a 
problem when sheeting tight while going upwind and using the genny car track.

From: Steven Tattrie via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 2:03 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Steven Tattrie 
Subject: Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C&C 30 MK1 1979 (Steven Tattrie)

Hi All, thank for everyone that provided feedback on genoa track on a C&C30 
mk1. 

Micheal Brown pointed out an interesting sailing magazine article 
http://www.sailmagazine.com/racing/regattas/headsail-sheeting/

My take away here is I should be sheeting as close as 7 degrees up to 10 
degrees depending on wind. I visited my boat this weekend and based on my 
trigonometry math skills I would have not issue sheeting too close . It would 
be difficult to meet the seven degrees in light wind. With that in mind my 
concern is shroud location.

Does any one with tracks have interference with the shrouds? I am thinking, 
when the wind pick up you want to flatten the foot, visually looks like the 
shroud would restrict sail shape. any comments?

Steve







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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C&C 30 MK1 1979 (Steven Tattrie)

[Steven Tattrie via CnC-List]

Hi All, thank for everyone that provided feedback on genoa track on a C&C30
mk1.

Micheal Brown pointed out an interesting sailing magazine article
http://www.sailmagazine.com/racing/regattas/headsail-sheeting/

My take away here is I should be sheeting as close as 7 degrees up to 10
degrees depending on wind. I visited my boat this weekend and based on my
trigonometry math skills I would have not issue sheeting too close . It
would be difficult to meet the seven degrees in light wind. With that in
mind my concern is shroud location.

Does any one with tracks have interference with the shrouds? I am thinking,
when the wind pick up you want to flatten the foot, visually looks like the
shroud would restrict sail shape. any comments?

Steve
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Stus-List Opinions on hull/keel crack expansion

[Eugene Fodor via CnC-List]

I have a crack at my hull/keel joint and am debating filling it with 4200.
It is no significant and as I understand it this is pretty normal for boats
with an external keel. My concern is that since my boats up north in
Wisconsin and spends a good amount of time frozen, I'm wondering if filling
it might actually cause expansion if any water gets down the keel bolt and
through the cracks. One of my keel bolts has had this problem which I
mitigated through drilling a hole on each side of the bulge, epoxy fill and
some vigorous hammering. Thoughts?

Gene Fodor
"Hawk"
C&C 29-2 84-85
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Re: Stus-List Gel coat crazing below waterline

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Do you have another link?  It replies the session expired.

Bill Dakin
25MKII

> 
> You can see pics at: 
> http://hhsa.clubexpress.com/content.aspx?page_id=187&club_id=8237
> 
> I 
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Re: Stus-List Gel coat crazing below waterline

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Nice boat. I used to have one (1975). Your rudder looks different – it is 
bigger and kind of square – It is certainly not standard. An upgrade of sort?

Marek
ex. 1975 C&C 24 “Fennel”
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: Doug Ellmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 09:26
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Ellmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gel coat crazing below waterline

I acquired a 1976 C&C 24 in July '16.  This winter, I pulled the boat and had 
the hull soda blasted.  There were many years of unnecessary anti-fouling paint 
built up and flaking off.

After it was soda blasted, I found crazing of the gel coat everywhere.  There 
were some gel coat blisters near the waterline.  One side was worse than other 
for waterline gel coat blisters.

I did some research online and talked to some local boat mechanics.  The 
recommendation was just barrier coat, and fair the worse of the blisters.

I also had a keel smile.  I dropped the keep and rebidded the keel.  I then put 
two coats of grey Interlux 2000e in gray.  I then faired with some epoxy 
fairing the keel smile and waterline.

I then did two more coats of white interlux 2000e barrier coat.  Contrasting 
color helps ensure coverage.

I put my first coat of Micron CSC in blue 1.5-2 hrs after the 4th coat barrier 
coat.  Again, a contrasting color to ensure coverage.

I then put on 3 coats of Micron CSC in shark white.  So, next time I pull the 
boat, if I see any blue, I know to coat the boat.  If not, I don't at anymore.

Just before I splashed the boat, I cleaned off the depth transducer with 
acetone.  I figure I will just cleaned the depth finder with a little scruby 
from time to time.

I splashed the boat Friday!

You can see pics at: 
http://hhsa.clubexpress.com/content.aspx?page_id=187&club_id=8237

I also did new running rigging.

As luck would have it, the Yamaha 8 hp shifter broke after launch.  I was lucky 
enough to tie up to the dock and take the partially apart and manually get it 
to shift in gear.  I found the part on ebay.

The next project are the windows and rebuild the head.

--
Doug Ellmore, Sr.
s/v Red Sky 1976 C&C 24
d...@ellmore.net

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Re: Stus-List Gel coat crazing below waterline

[Doug Ellmore via CnC-List]

I acquired a 1976 C&C 24 in July '16.  This winter, I pulled the boat and
had the hull soda blasted.  There were many years of unnecessary
anti-fouling paint built up and flaking off.

After it was soda blasted, I found crazing of the gel coat everywhere.
There were some gel coat blisters near the waterline.  One side was worse
than other for waterline gel coat blisters.

I did some research online and talked to some local boat mechanics.  The
recommendation was just barrier coat, and fair the worse of the blisters.

I also had a keel smile.  I dropped the keep and rebidded the keel.  I then
put two coats of grey Interlux 2000e in gray.  I then faired with some
epoxy fairing the keel smile and waterline.

I then did two more coats of white interlux 2000e barrier coat.
Contrasting color helps ensure coverage.

I put my first coat of Micron CSC in blue 1.5-2 hrs after the 4th coat
barrier coat.  Again, a contrasting color to ensure coverage.

I then put on 3 coats of Micron CSC in shark white.  So, next time I pull
the boat, if I see any blue, I know to coat the boat.  If not, I don't at
anymore.

Just before I splashed the boat, I cleaned off the depth transducer with
acetone.  I figure I will just cleaned the depth finder with a little
scruby from time to time.

I splashed the boat Friday!

You can see pics at:
http://hhsa.clubexpress.com/content.aspx?page_id=187&club_id=8237

I also did new running rigging.

As luck would have it, the Yamaha 8 hp shifter broke after launch.  I was
lucky enough to tie up to the dock and take the partially apart and
manually get it to shift in gear.  I found the part on ebay.

The next project are the windows and rebuild the head.

-- 
Doug Ellmore, Sr.
s/v Red Sky 1976 C&C 24
d...@ellmore.net
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Re: Stus-List AIS and MMSI as well as marine radio use in Canada

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Steve,

Good point.

I will check in the materials I have if there is something about some 
reciprocal agreement. I think that there was something there about honouring 
the local rules, as long as the boat was “visiting”, i.e. only temporary, for a 
limited amount of time etc. Kind of, similar to how it works for the safety 
equipment certifications. But I might remember it completely wrong.

Marek

From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 00:30
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS and MMSI as well as marine radio use in Canada

   My understanding of the situation is as follows:
   Unless something has quietly changed quite recently, international rules 
require licenses for both operators and vessels. Countries are within their 
rights to add or subtract rules within their own territorial jurisdictions. 
Canadian pleasure craft operators are required to have a Restricted Operator's 
Certificate (Maritime) at home and abroad. An endorsement is required on the 
operator's certificate if the vessel is equipped with a DSC enabled radio. A 
station license is not required for Canadian pleasure craft operating in 
Canadian waters. MMSI registration is not a license.
I don't think that either U.S. pleasure craft operators, or U.S. pleasure 
craft, are required to have any sort of license to operate within U.S. 
territorial waters.
All vessels in international waters, or when entering foreign waters, are 
required to follow international rules by default, which include a requirement 
for both operator and station licenses. So since we lack specific agreements or 
legislation to the contrary, we are legally bound to follow the international 
rules with respect to licensing of both operators and vessels when in each 
other's countries.
At least that is my take on it. Having to pay an annual fee for a station 
license on a pleasure craft  is just another example of parasitic government 
bureaucracy in my opinion. It serves no useful purpose.

Steve Thomas
(Canadian in Florida)

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Re: Stus-List Eye splice in used line

[bwhitmore--- via CnC-List]

You might also wash the lines first to soften them.  I've had good luck with 
waxing them on gentle in a front load washing machine, but others prefer the 
top rack of the dishwasher to avoid the risk of hockling.
Kindest Regards,
Bruce 


Sent from Samsung tablet.

 Original message 
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
Date: 4/9/2017  12:03 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: CnClist  
Cc: "Dennis C."  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Eye splice in used line 

It is more difficult, but not impossible, to put an eye splice in a line that 
has been loaded.  Was only one end loaded?  If so, try the splice in the other 
end.  Also, lower tech lines are a bit more forgiving to having been loaded.  
In the step where you shove the cover away from the splice, do it several 
times.  Also work the core to loosen it during this step.  It may work for you.
Dennis C.
On Sun, Apr 9, 2017 at 10:45 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I intend to go to soft shackles on my Genoa sheets.  My genny sheets are 
several years old. I'm wondering...Once lines have been used for several years 
( light use ) will doing an eye splice become harder or too difficult?  I have 
not done an eye splice before and want to avoid shortening my sheets too much 
with failed splicing attempts. Any tricks on used lines?
thx
Tom B
Tom BuscagliaS/V Alera 1990 C&C 37+/40Vashon WAP 206.463.9200C 305.409.3660

Tom BuscagliaS/V Alera 1990 C&C 37+/40Vashon WAP 206.463.9200C 305.409.3660

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Stus-List RE Gel coat Crazing Below the Waterline

[Joseph Scott via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

It's not blisters. More like hairline spider cracking. 

Sent from my iPhone

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